The Art of Charcuterie

the art of
charcuterie
the art of
charcuterie
JOHN KOWALSKI
AND
The Culinary Institute of America
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
This book is printed on acid-free paper.

Copyright 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
Photography copyright 2011 by Ben Fink
The Culinary Institute of America
President
Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises
Director of Publishing
Editorial Project Manager
Editorial Assistants
Dr. Tim Ryan 77

Mark Erickson 77
Susan Cussen
Nathalie Fischer
Lisa Lahey 00
Shelly Malgee 08
Erin Jeanne McDowell 08
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Published simultaneously in Canada
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by
any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under
Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the
Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center,
Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.
copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department,
John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at
http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in
preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness
of the contents of this book and specically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or tness for a
particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials.
The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a
professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of prot or any other
commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer
Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax
(317) 572-4002.
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be
available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our web site at www.wiley.com.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Kowalski, John, 1954The art of charcuterie / The Culinary Institute of America and John Kowalski.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-470-19741-7 (cloth)
1. Meat--Preservation. 2. Fishery products--Preservation 3. Cookery (Cold dishes) I. Culinary Institute of
America. II. Title.
TX612.M4K73 2010
641.79--dc22
2009013399
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
I would like to dedicate this book to my parents in

deep appreciation for the love and guidance theyve
shown over my lifetime. They taught me that the
difference between the impossible and the possible
lies in a persons determination. To my mother and
father Maria and Mieczyslaw Mitch Kowalski.
cont
ents
acknowledgments viii
introduction ix
CHAPTER ONE
equipment 1
CHAPTER TWO
spices, herbs, & seasonings 16

CHAPTER THREE
meats, poultry, & seafood 38

CHAPTER FOUR
sanitation 54
CHAPTER FIVE
curing & brining 70

CHAPTER SIX
smoking 124
CHAPTER SEVEN
forcemeats 146
CHAPTER EIGHT
sausages 202
CHAPTER NINE
condiments 274
resources 332
conversion tables 334
glossary 344
subject index 354

recipe index 377
acknowledgments
I would like to offer my deeply felt thanks to the following people. Many individuals
and organizations contributed generously to this work. Without them and their input,
this book would never have been started, let alone completed.
The administration, faculty, staff, and students of The Culinary Institute of
America all touched and inuenced this work. Having the knowledge and abilities of
all these individuals at my disposal was an invaluable asset.
My son Michael Kowalski deserves special credit for his countless hours spent
editing drafts and giving focus to my writing, as well as providing occasional scientic
insight. Without his help, I would never have undertaken and nished the project.
Many thanks to my colleagues in the Garde Manger Department for supporting
my efforts and sharing their opinions and expertise.
The staff of the Food and Beverage Institute had a great deal to with the production of this volume and deserve my thanks. In particular, Lisa Lahey and Maggie
Wheeler, who both gave me the nal push to commit to writing this book.
Nathalie Fisher for donating her hard work and time in the production of this
book.
My colleague Henry Rapp, for his friendship and professional advice, along
with supplying the recipes for Chicken Sausage with Plums and Ginger (page 251),
Chicken Sausage with Mushrooms and Asiago (page 246), and Buffalo WingStyle
Sausages (page 244).
The following people played key roles in assisting with formula development, photography, or both: Kate Chappell, Sarah Thompson, Paige Bodtke, Laura Alexander,
and Paul Moncebo. I thank them for their patience and their ability to change midstream with the recipes.
The following individuals and companies outside The Culinary Institute of
America also made important contributions to this work.
The stunning photography of Ben Fink graces the pages of this book and brings
life to it.
For sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm, I thank Bruce Armstrong from
Saratoga Food Specialties for his input on spices and avorings and Robert Rust and
Rust Associates for help with sausage making and casing information and the ideas
for moisture-enhanced fresh pork, turkey, and beef. Robert was my sounding board
and for that he deserves another thanks.
Doctor Roger Mandigo, University of Nebraska, for his input on sausage
formulation, meat emulsions, and batter technology.
For their help in providing equipment for this project, I thank Ted Vaughn and
World Pac International USA.
Dr. James Lamkey of Chris Hansen for his help with starter cultures and the
white mold for salamis.
My greatest thanks, however, go to my family, for putting up with me during the
frustrating and fruitful times I endured in this process and for their continuous support.
viii
introduction
The art and practice of the production of charcuterie, involving the chemical preservation of meats as a means for the total utilization of various meat products, goes
back to ancient times. Today the art of charcuterie can provide a chef with a means
to provide the diner with uniquely avorful options while utilizing the highest quality
ingredients.
The trade of charcutier goes back at least as far as classical Rome. In such a large
town, slaughterhouses, butchers, and cooked-meat shops were well organized to safeguard public health. This system was still being followedafter a fashionin medieval Paris, although in the Middle Ages a great increase in cooked-meat purveyors
put an intolerable strain on such control as there was. From this chaos, the charcutiers
emerged and banded together, by edict of the king in 1476, for the sale of cookedpork meat products and raw pork fat. But they did not have the right to slaughter the
pigs they needed, which put them at the mercy of the general butchers until the next
century. At the beginning of the seventh century, charcutiers gained the right to sell
all cuts of uncooked pork, not just the fat. And since during Lenten time meat sales
declined, charcutiers were allowed to sell salted herring and sh. Now the trade could
develop in a logical manner.
By the eighteenth century, the charcutier was closely connected with two
other cooked-meat sellers. The tripier bought the insides of all animals from both
the butcher and charcutier and sold cooked tripe; the traiteur bought raw meat of all
kinds and sold it cooked in sauce as ragots, either to be eaten at home or on his
premises. At this time private kitchens in the city were in a poor state, and often
nonexistent; people sent out to the cooked food shops for their prepared dishes. This
was starting to become a big trade, and each set of tradesmen jealously guarded their
growing businesses.
The art of charcuterie now falls in the domain of the garde manger, which includes
the preparation of all cold items in the kitchen. Today, the resurgence in the popularity of these items is bringing about a change in the ingredients and manner of
fabrication. There is a wider array of seasonings and herbs used to create fresher and
lighter fare. Sausages are now made with seafood ingredients, or constructed in such
a way as to reect a healthier style of eating. Even when traditional techniques, avor
proles, and recipes are still used, a change can be seen in the manner of presentation.
Traditional charcuterie, while still avorful and delicious today, is often presented as
smaller, more rened bites.
ix
equipment
chapter one
This chapter describes the equipment used in preparing charcuterie
products and tells how to use it safely.
Electric meat grinders, food processors, choppers, mixers, and sausage stuffers have
all but replaced the hand tools once used to make sausages and other forcemeats.
These tools are certainly great for saving time and labor, but even more important,
they produce charcuterie of superior quality to those made by the laborious process
the original charcutiers and garde manger chefs knew.
To maintain safe operation and food safety, use the following

guidelines:
1.
Make sure all equipment is in excellent condition. Evaluate any machinery you
use in the kitchen and consider its functionality and safety as part of a standard
checklist. Are the blades sharp? Are all the safety features fully functional? Are
the cords and plugs in good repair?
2.
Make sure the equipment is scrupulously clean before setting to work. Every
part of the equipment must be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized between
uses. Cross contamination is a serious problem, especially for foods as highly
processed and handled as sausages.
3.
Chill any part of the machine that comes into direct contact with the sausage
ingredients. Place grinder parts in the freezer or refrigerator, or chill equipment
rapidly by placing it in a clean sink or container of ice water. Remember that if
your sausage mixture becomes warm during production, you may need to cool
both the mixture and the equipment before continuing.
4.
Choose the right tool for the job. Do not overload your equipment. If you do
not have equipment large enough to handle bulk recipes, break the formula
down into batches that your equipment can handle without straining.
5.
Assemble equipment correctly. Novices often make the mistake of improperly

setting up the grinder blade and die/plate assembly. Be certain that the blade
is sitting ush against the die. This cuts the food neatly, rather than tearing
or shredding it. Make sure the power is disconnected before assembling or
disassembling the equipment.
6.
7.
Always turn off the power before assembling, cleaning, or servicing equipment.
Use the tamper, never your hands, to feed food into a grinder.
EQUIPMENT
Before you begin grinding, chill the

grinder parts in ice water.
Dice the meat and other required

ingredients to a size that ts the
feed tube, and chill or semifreeze
before grinding.
Grind to the desired texture.
Once the meat is properly ground,

mix it long enough to distribute the
fat and lean components evenly,
and add any liquids slowly.
THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE
Assembling the grinder correctly is

key. Be sure that the die is sitting
ush against the blade.
Mise en place for grinding: cubed

meat and fat, seasonings, and
marinade ingredients
EQUIPMENT
MEAT GRINDER ASSEMBLY
Meat Grinder Assembly

5.
4.
3.
2.
1.
Pin
Pin
Pin
slot
Face plate
Grinder plate
Knife
Worm
Body
PROPER GRINDING PROCEDURE
Chilled meat cubes

are placed in
grinder here
Ground meat
extrudes from here
and falls directly
into a chilled
stainless-steel bowl
grinders, cutters, and choppers

buffalo chopper
A buffalo chopper, also known as a food cutter or bowl cutter, is a high-speed bulk
chopper and mixer. It is a large, typically cast-aluminum machine with a stainlesssteel bowl and blades. It has a main body encasing an engine, as well as an inset bowl,
bowl cover, knife shaft, and blades. The bowl of the buffalo chopper rotates and helps
to carry the food under the machines blades. The rotating bowl (20 to 24 rpm) and
revolving knives (1,725 rpm) make short work of meats, vegetables, and other food
items, reducing them to uniformly small pieces.
BUFFALO CHOPPER
Cover lock
(on back of cover)
Cover hinges
Cover
Clutch for
grinder
Bowl
On/Off switch
Front View
Knife shaft
Plate
Knife
On/Off switch
Knife
lock
knob
Knife shaft
Knife
Knob
Thumb screw
for grinder
Top View
(with cover removed)
EQUIPMENT
Enlargement of
knife and shaft
grinding plates and knives

The grinding plates (also sometimes referred to as dies) and knives are the most important parts of a grinding machine. Plates and knives require special care in a kitchen.
They can be misplaced and can rust quickly if not properly taken care of. Cleaning
the plates and knives is particularly important because cross contamination is a big
problem, especially when dealing with meats. The plates and knives should be cleaned
thoroughly and then dried in an oven for a few minutes.
It is important to chill the plate and blade before grinding.
After the grinder is set up and the grinding process begins, the knife cuts the meat
and the meat forces itself out through the plate. The blades must always remain sharp.
The meat must be cut into the plate instead of being squashed into the plate.
The parts of a meat grinder, from
left to right: grinder housing or
grinder body, worm, blade,
different-size plates, and collar.
GRINDER PLATE AND SAUSAGE STUFFER NOZZLE SIZES
Fine
1/8 holes
Coarse
3/8 holes
Medium
1/4 holes
Sausage Stuffer Nozzle Sizes
Small
Sheep
Medium
Hog
Large
Beef
Actual Diameter of Nozzle Opening and Type
Robot Coupe
A Robot Coupe food processor houses the motor separately from the bowl, blades,
and lid. Food processors can grind, pure, blend, emulsify, crush, knead, and, with
special disks, slice, julienne, and shred foods. The R2 is a smaller machine than the
R6, with less power that operates at one speed. The R6 is not only larger than the R2,
but it also has more power and is able to operate at variable speewds.
Stephan cutter
A Stephan cutter, also known as a vertical bowl cutter mixer, consists of a stainlesssteel bowl with a lockable lid pierced by a stirring arm, two blades, a timer, and a
speed selector. It is used to ne-cut, mix, and emulsify, primarily in making a 5/4/3
emulsion (see Emulsication and Binding, page 46).
mixers
These electric machines have large rotating bowls of varying capacities (5-, 10-, 20-,
40-quart/4.80-, 9.60-, 19.20-, 38.40-L). The bowl is locked in place and the beater,
whip, paddle, or dough hook rotates through the contents.
standing mixer
Mixers in a butcher shop or charcuterie are usually tabletop units. Mixers are used to
ensure ingredients are mixed homogenously. Although the tabletop 20-quart/19.20-L
mixers are to be found in most of the kitchens, with bowls and grinding attachments,
in larger operations, oor models or free-standing mixers specically made for sausage mixing are used.
EQUIPMENT
STEPHAN CUTTER: GENERAL ASSEMBLY
Control panel detail

L
L
L
Slow
Stop
Fast
stuffers and stufng equipment

sausage stuffer (crank and pressure)
There are many sizes of sausage stuffers available. The smaller sausage stuffers are
manually powered, while the larger stuffers are powered by electrohydraulics. Manual
sausage stuffers can range from 5- to 20-lb/2.27- to 9.07-kg capacity.
stainless-steel table for sausage stufng
Nearly as important as the active equipment used to grind and stuff the sausage links
is the surface upon which this is taking place. A good sausage-stufng surface must
meet a few specic characteristics or else the charcuterie operation could be slowed,
disrupted, or even dangerous. Any table to be used should be constructed of stainless
steel. This type of material is nonabsorbent and extremely easy to clean. Raised edges
around the table will help keep water on the table so that the sausages can slide easily
as they come off the stuffer.
hog rings and casing clips
Hog rings and casing clips are the two kinds of closures available for crimping-sealing
the ends of large sausages. Hog rings are used on the ll end of a casing at the stuffer
and are used to seal the ends of the casings, keeping the juices in. A casing clip is applied to one end of a casing as it is being prepared for stufng.
MANUAL SAUSAGE STUFFER
Fast speed
Cylinder
piston
side view
Air valve
Cylinder
Top View
Slow speed
Crank
Cylinder
(removable)
Nozzle
Front
View
Side
View
You will need hand tools to apply these closures.

Hog rings, which are versatile and attractive, come in packages of one hundred
and are sized for various casings. They are often used in commercial settings when
producing large amounts of sausages, such as summer sausage, where the rings are
used as a reinforcement to keep the meat separated and sealed. To use hog rings,
clamp the ends with hog ring pliers to seal the sausage casings.
measurement instruments
scales
Scales are used to weigh ingredients for preparation and portion control. There are
different kinds of scales, such as spring, balance beam, and electronic scales.
hydrometer and hydrometer jar (salimeter)
The hydrometer measures the density or specic gravity of a liquid. It was invented by an
English chemist named William Nicholson in the 1790s. When placed in liquid, the glass
tube oats; the height at which it oats indicates the density of the liquid. This is useful
when measuring the amount of salt or sugar in a brine. The hydrometer has the amounts
labeled directly on it, given in either strengths of the brine or percentages of salinity.
pH meter and buffers
The pH meter is used to measure the acidity or alkalinity of a meat product. Meat
with a higher pH reading (more alkalinity) has better water-retention properties. The
pH meter is also used for dry sausage production to make sure that the meat is acidi-
10
EQUIPMENT
ed and that it goes down below 5 percent pH level on the meter in a reasonable
amount of time. This is to make sure that the meat is at a level of acidity that can
prevent the growth of bacteria. The buffer is a solution that resists changes in pH,
helping to create a more stable product.
For very precise work, the pH meter should be calibrated before and after each
measurement. For normal use, calibration should be performed at the beginning of
each day. The pH probe measures pH as the activity of hydrogen ions surrounding a
thin-walled glass bulb at its tip. The probe produces a small voltage (about 0.06 volt
per pH unit) that is measured and displayed as pH units by the meter. For more information about pH probes, see glass electrode.
Calibration should be performed with at least two standard buffer solutions that
span the range of pH values to be measured. For general purposes, buffers at pH 4 and
pH 10 are acceptable. The pH meter has one control (calibrate) to set the meter reading equal to the value of the rst standard buffer and a second control (slope), which
is used to adjust the meter reading to the value of the second buffer. A third control
allows the temperature to be set. Standard buffer sachets, which can be obtained from
a variety of suppliers, usually state how the buffer value changes with temperature.
The calibration process correlates the voltage produced by the probe (approximately 0.06 volts per pH unit) with the pH scale. After each single measurement, the
probe is rinsed with distilled water or deionized water to remove any traces of the
solution being measured; blotted with a clean tissue to absorb any remaining water,
which could dilute the sample and thus alter the reading; and then quickly immersed
in another solution. When not in use, the probe tip must be kept wet at all times. It
is typically kept immersed in an acidic solution of around pH 3.0. In an emergency,
acidied tap water can be used, but distilled or deionized water must never be used for
longer-term probe storage as the relatively ionless water sucks ions out of the probe
through diffusion, which degrades it.
Occasionally (about once a month), the probe may be cleaned using pH-electrode
cleaning solution; generally a 0.1 M solution of hydrochloric acid (HCl) is used(1),
having a pH of about one.
relative humidity thermometer

The relative humidity thermometer is used in the charcuterie kitchen to ensure safe
processing of meat, sh, and poultry. Relative humidity is a term used to describe the
amount of water vapor that exists in a gaseous mixture of air and water. This is particularly important when you age sausage. You need to monitor the humidity in the
area so they dry properly and do not develop case hardening. Relative humidity can
be measured with the use of wet- and dry-bulb thermometers:
dry-bulb thermometer
A dry-bulb thermometer is a conventional mercury glass thermometer that measures
ambient air temperature.
wet-bulb thermometer
A wet-bulb thermometer is a dry-bulb thermometer, but the bulb is kept moist by a
thin cloth (e.g., muslin) bag connected by a wick to a bath of clean (preferably distilled)
11
water. The thermometers accuracy is dependent on making sure the thermometer is

in constant contact with the pan of water.
As long as the air is not saturated, evaporation from the muslin keeps the wetbulb thermometer at a lower temperature than the dry-bulb thermometer beside it,
with which its readings are compared. The depression of the wet-bulb temperature
gives a measure of the saturation decit, from which the relative humidity and dew
point can be calculated.
Thermometers
Thermometers are essential for charcuterie preparations; you need to have the correct temperature of the product whether it needs to be cold or hot. There are different types and styles of thermometers, each varying in technology and price, such as
digital, dial, candy/deep-fry, oven-safe, and instant-read thermometers. Instant-read
thermometers are used to test the internal temperature of food products.
thermocouples
Thermocouples are able to read and display the nal temperature in two to ve seconds. The temperature results will be displayed on a digital panel. A thermocouple
thermometer measures temperature at the junction of two ne wires found at the tip
of the probe. Thermocouples used in scientic laboratories have very thin probes,
similar to hypodermic needles, while others may have a thickness of 16 inch.
Since thermocouple thermometers are able to respond so quickly, the temperature can be checked faster in different parts of the food to ensure that it is thoroughly
cooked. This is very useful for cooking large foods, such as turkeys or roasts, which
require temperatures to be read in more than one place. The thin probe of the thermocouple also enables it to accurately read the temperature of thinner foods like
hamburger patties, pork chops, and chicken breasts.
Thermocouple thermometers are not designed to remain in the food during
cooking. They should be used during the end of the cooking time to get the nal temperatures. Always check the temperature before the food is expected to nish cooking
to prevent any overcooking.
water movement meter
measuring water activity (AW)

The water activity (aw) represents the ratio of the water vapor pressure of the food to
the water vapor pressure of pure water under the same conditions, and it is expressed
as a fraction.
The water activity scale extends from 0 (bone dry) to 1.0 (pure water), but most foods
have a water activity level in the range of 0.2 for very dry foods to 0.99 for moist fresh foods.
Water activity is in practice usually measured as equilibrium relative humidity (ERH).
If we multiply the ratio by 100, we obtain the equilibrium relative humidity (ERH)
that the foodstuff would produce if enclosed with air in a sealed container at constant
temperature. Thus, a food with an aw of 0.7 would produce an ERH of 70 percent.
12
EQUIPMENT
predicting food spoilage

Water activity has its most useful application in predicting the growth of bacteria,
yeasts, and molds. For a food to have a useful shelf life without relying on refrigerated
storage, it is necessary to control either its acidity level (pH) or the level of water activity
(aw), or a suitable combination of the two. This can effectively increase the products
stability and make it possible to predict its shelf life under known ambient storage conditions. Food can be made safe to store by lowering the water activity to a point that will
not allow dangerous pathogens such as Clostridium botulinum and Staphylococcus aureus to
grow in it. We also know that Clostridium botulinum, the most dangerous food-poisoning
bacterium, is unable to grow at an aw of .93 and below.
The risk of food poisoning must be considered in low acid foods (pH > 4.5) with
a water activity greater than 0.86 aw. Staphylococcus aureus, a common food-poisoning
organism, can grow down to this relatively low water activity level. Foods that may
support the growth of this bacterium include cheese and fermented sausages stored
above correct refrigeration temperatures.
refrigeration
Maintaining adequate refrigerated storage is crucial to any food-service operation.
It is especially important when processing meats because of the dangers of cross
contamination and bacterial growth. All units should be maintained properly, which
means regular and thorough cleaning
on-site refrigeration
Refrigerated drawers or under-the-counter reach-ins allow ingredients in the prep
area to be held at the proper temperature.
portable refrigeration
A refrigerated cart can be placed as needed in the kitchen.
reach-in
A reach-in may be a single unit or part of a bank of units, available in many sizes.
Units with pass-through doors are especially helpful for the pantry or prep area, where
cold items can be retrieved as needed.
walk-in
This is the largest style of refrigeration unit and usually has shelves arranged along the
interior walls. It is possible to zone a walk-in to maintain appropriate temperature and
humidity levels for storing various foods. Some walk-ins are large enough to accommodate rolling carts for additional storage. Some units have pass-through or reach-in
doors to facilitate access to frequently required items. Walk-ins may be situated in the
kitchen or outside the facility.
13
other equipment
BRINING SYSTEMS
Commercial operations
use a variety of highproduction brining
systems. In some,
vacuum pressure is
used to force brine
into the meat. Another
process, known as
artery pumping, was
introduced by a New
Zealand undertaker
named Kramlich in
1973. In this method,
brine is injected
through the arterial
system. Stitch pumps
inject brine via a single
needle inserted into the
meat at specic points.
Multiple needle pumps
rapidly inject meats
through a large number
of evenly spaced offset
needles.
brine pump
The brine pump is one of the most-used tools for brining, to inject brine into the meat
for more uniform distribution. A brine pump consists of a plunger, cylinder, strainer,
hose, and needle. Brine pumps come in different volume sizes.
brine tubs
Brine tubs (also known as curing tubs) are large containers used to hold pieces of meat
submerged in a brine. They come in a variety of sizes. Brine tubs should only be used
for brining or salting items.
sausage sticks
Sausage sticks are stainless metal rods used for smoking and drying sausages. Sausage
sticks may be used to suspend other items in the smoker as well.
bacon combs
Bacon combs are used to hang bacon and consist of about six or so pointy hooks
attached to one hook. The six or so hooks penetrate the bacon and hold it up.
The one hook attaches itself onto sausage sticks so the bacon can air-dry or be coldor hot-smoked.
skin buckets
Skin buckets are used to store and transport sausage casings. Casings should be sorted
by their size and type, and the buckets labeled clearly and covered. The only use for
these buckets would then be for storing casings.
smokehouse
Several types of smokehouses are available for both at-home chefs and commercial
settings. The basic features shared by all are a smoke source, a smoke chamber where
the food is exposed, circulation, and ventilation. A commercial smokehouse will have
fans inside to dry the product and have dampers to control the moisture in the smoker.
A smoke chamber is usually outside of the smokehouse.
spray head and hose
This equipment is usually used at the end of the sausage-making process to spray cold
water on sausages to cool them after smoking to bring them quickly to a food-safe
temperature for storage. Other sausages might need a warm-water shower during
processing to maintain the correct balance of relative humidity and water activity.
Some sausages require a cool shower as they come out of the smoker, while others
need a warm shower during the smoking phrase. To use, the spray head is attached to
a hose and the hose is attached to the water faucet.
14
EQUIPMENT
vacuum massage tumblers

Vacuum massage tumblers are used in the charcuterie kitchen to assist in marinating,
adding cure, and adding avor to meat products. The goal of massage tumbling is
to bring salt-soluble proteins to the surface of the meat without damaging the tissue.
Once these proteins have been brought to the surface, they can absorb water and dissolved seasonings into the meat for better-tasting products.
Pieces of meat to be treated are placed into a tumbling drum that rotates around
a horizontal axis. The drum is sealed by a water- and airtight door that can be opened
and closed as needed. This drum contains evenly spaced toothed rods parallel to the
axis of rotation. Upon rotation of the drum, the teeth produce a mass of small cuts in
the surface of the meat. The drum is sealed by a watertight door that can be readily
opened and closed, as needed.
teasing needle
A teasing needle is a tapering needle mounted in a handle and used for teasing or
letting the air out of the sausage (casing) when it has been lled so there are no air
pockets. These needles come in different shapes; older kinds will have three needles
attached or mounted in the handle.
spice grinder
A coffee grinder can be used as a spice grinder to grind dry spices into powder.
bar blender
Blenders have become a must-have item in every kitchen, bar, coffee shop, and many
other food-service establishments. Whether you need a classic bar blender, a durable
food blender, or a slick, trendy immersion blender, these work to make chickpea our
from chickpeas or to make paste from herbs to rub on products.
mortar and pestle
A mortar and pestle is a tool used to crush, grind, and mix substances. The pestle is
a heavy stick whose end is used for pounding and grinding, and the mortar is a bowl.
The substance is ground between the pestle and the mortar.
15
spices,
herbs,&
seasonings
chapter two
We will explore the seasonings most often used in sausages
and meat products and the avors commonly associated
with certain processed meats.
commonly used spices and herbs

mustard
Mustard is one of the most common spices used in the meat industry. Mustard is considered an emulsier and is used in just about every recipe. It is grown in Montana,
North Dakota, and the adjoining Canadian provinces. Mustard has little avor, but it is
important because it contains 29 percent protein. The advantages of using mustard are
this additional protein, which can be added to meat emulsions, and mustards binding
ability. There is, however, an active enzyme in mustard that creates acid that, in higher
concentrations, will break down a meat emulsion. In order to use more mustard in an
emulsion, the mustard needs to be deheated. The mustard is heated to 150F/66C,
which deactivates the enzyme and increases the binding ability. Adding mustard to a product helps save a small amount of money due to the binding ability and extra protein.
black pepper
Black pepper is picked earlier than white pepper. Black pepper is used for its spicy,
pungent avor. It is the most important spice because it is used in almost all sausage
products. It is used at levels of 2 to 8 oz/57 to 227 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg meat, with
4 oz/113 g being the most common.
white pepper
White pepper is the ripe form of black pepper. It is used when dark specks of black
pepper are not desired in a product. It is a mature berry with a mild, less-imposing
avor than black pepper. Its mature avor is sometimes described as musty.
red pepper
Red pepper is used for the sensations of heat and tickling in the throat. When used
in smaller amounts, the product will have the tickling sensation without the burn. A
small amount ( to oz/14 to 21 g) per 100 lb/45.36 kg will give a seasoned product more heat sensation. Red pepper is commonly used in crushed (ake) form to aid
visual appearance. If the heat of the red pepper is not desired, alcohol may be added
to eliminate the heat while maintaining the appearance.
paprika
Though paprika has a sweet, aromatic, and pleasantly spicy avor, it is used in the
meat industry for its color as well as avor. This pepper is very mild compared with
cayenne and chile peppers.
nutmeg or mace
This is the avor most commonly associated with hot dogs, bologna, and similar sausages. Mace and nutmeg come from the same tree. Mace is the lacy, bright aril (lacelike covering) that surrounds the nutmeg. Mace is used when the dark color of nutmeg
is a disadvantage and when a more delicate avor is desired. Both nutmeg and mace
are highly fragrant. Mace has a rich smooth avor while nutmeg has slightly bitter
undertones.
18
SPICES, HERBS, & SEASONINGS
WHY AND WHERE YOU TASTE
The tongue is divided into four general regions of taste:

SWEETNESS: Tip of the tongue
SALTINESS: Front edge of the tongue
BITTERNESS: Rear edge of the tongue
SOUR: Across rear of tongue
UMAMI: Center of tongue
Everyone experiences these basic sensations; they are biologically built in. But spices
and other avors in meat products require training to recognize as these tastes. Some
spices and herbs taste sweet, some taste bitter, some are pungent (strong or sharp
avor), and some are aromatic (distinctive, savory smell).
Most spices that are sweet are also aromatic, such as cinnamon and coriander. A
few are sweet and pungent, such as nutmeg and mace. Some herbs, such as sage, are
bitter as well as aromatic.
THE SENSE OF SMELL AS IT RELATES TO TASTE
As we experience the taste of something, in many instances up to 75 percent of that

experience is actually the smell, or the aromatic properties of the food rather than the
avors picked up by the preceptors related through the tongue.
While taste buds allow us to perceive only bitter, salty, sweet, and sour, our sense
of smell is much more rened and offers the brain more complex information.
coriander
Whole or ground seeds, coriander has a sweet, oral avor. As fresh leaves, it is known
as cilantro. It is the avor of some hot dogs, bologna, and smoked sausages. Coriander
complements nutmeg very well.
garlic
This is a bulb that has a strong avor and is available fresh, granulated, and powdered.
Garlic has been used throughout recorded history for both culinary and medicinal
purposes. It is closely related to onions, shallots, and leeks, and has a strong and hearty
avor. Its pungent, spicy avor mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking. The
garlic bulb, the most commonly used part of the plant, is divided into numerous eshy
sections called cloves.
Garlic is most often used in beef sausages and products that are eaten cold. It is
useful in avoiding the tallow avor of beef.
garlic akes
Garlic akes are also known as dehydrated minced garlic. When the akes are rehydrated in water, they provide much of the avor and texture of fresh garlic. For substitutions, tsp/2.50 mL garlic akes is equivalent to one clove of garlic; tsp/2.50
mL dry garlic akes is equivalent to 8 tsp/0.625 mL garlic powder.
19
garlic powder
Garlic powder is ground dehydrated garlic. It provides some of the avor of fresh
garlic, but does not provide the texture that rehydrated garlic akes do. Garlic powder
disperses well in liquids, which makes it a good choice for marinades.
garlic salt
Garlic salt is a mixture of about half garlic powder and half table salt, with the addition of an anticaking agent to keep the mixture from clumping. When substituting
garlic salt in a recipe, it is important to account for the extra salt, otherwise the product will be too salty.
granulated garlic
This is a convenient and reliable product from California. Its texture is a little coarse
as it is not ground as ne as garlic powder. Like garlic powder, granulated garlic provides the avor, but not the texture, of fresh garlic. It disperses well in liquids.
sage, dried
Sage leaves are highly aromatic and fragrant, characterized by a medicinal, pineywoody avor. Sage is available as whole leaves, rubbed (leaves are crumbled), or in
ground form. It is most often used in pork sausage, but is also used in sauces and stuffings for fatty meats such as goose, duck, pork, and sausage.
chili powder
Chili powder consists of ground red chile peppers with herbs and spices. Flavors and
intensity of heat will vary.
ginger
Ginger is aromatic and pungent and has a warm avor. It can be purchased whole,
powdered, or crystallized.
fennel seed
Fennel is available whole, cracked, powdered, or pollen. It has a licorice-like avor
and is most commonly used in pepperoni and Italian sausage.
other charcuterie seasonings

The following herbs, spices, and avoring agents are also used in charcuterie for terrines, marinades, brines, and sauces.
parsley, fresh
Parsley is probably the most well-known and used herb in the United States. It is
used extensively in avoring and garnishing foods, as well as avoring sauces, stews,
and stocks. Curly leaf parsley is best known for garnishing, while at-leaf parsley is
used in bouquets garnis and other avoring applications.
20
tarragon, fresh
The slender, dark green leaves of tarragon have a pleasant, anise-like avor. Tarragon
blends well with other spices. It is used in many sauces, particularly barnaise, and
is used in making tarragon vinegar. In French cuisine, it is an integral part of nes
herbes and Dijon mustard as well as marinades, terrines, sausages, and sauces.
basil, fresh
Basil, also known as sweet basil, is a member of the mint family. Basil is a small, bushy
plant that grows to about 2 feet/61 cm tall. Its botanical name is derived from the
Greek word meaning to be fragrant. Pesto and basil oil are examples of products
made from basil. It is also used in marinades, sausages, and sauces.
thyme, fresh
The thyme plant grows to about 18 in/46 cm tall and produces small owers that are
very attractive to honeybees. The leaves measure about in/6 mm in length and
10 in/2.5 mm in width. This a versatile herb that can be used to season almost any
meat, poultry, or sh, and usually will blend well with other herbs.
marjoram, fresh
Most scientists consider marjoram to be a species of oregano. Available whole or
crushed, marjorams light grayish-green leaves have a sweet avor, more delicate than
oregano. Its avor is mild, sweet, complex, and inviting. Marjoram is used for seasoning sh, poultry, and meats, in marinades for pork, and in fresh or smoked Polish
sausage.
bay (laurel) leaves
Whole bay leaves are elliptically shaped, light green in color, and brittle when dried
and are also available ground. The leaves come from an evergreen tree and have a
distinctively strong, aromatic, spicy avor. Bay leaf is the approved term for this herb,
but the name laurel is still frequently seen. It is used in marinades, terrines, and
poaching liquid.
cloves
Cloves are the dried, unopened, nail-shaped ower buds of an evergreen tree. They
are reddish-brown in color, can be whole or ground, have a strong aromatic avor and
spicy aroma, and are used in seasoning sausages.
celery seed
Celery seeds are the dried fruit of a plant that is related, but not identical, to the celery plant. The tiny brown seeds have a celery-like avor and aroma and are available
whole or ground.
21
caraway seed
Caraway seeds are the dried fruit of an herb related to both dill and carrots. The
small, tannish brown seeds have a avor similar to a blend of dill and anise, sweet but
faintly sharp.
anise seed
Whole or ground, anise is the dried, ripe fruit of an herb. The crescent-shaped seeds
are unmistakably identied by their distinctive licorice-like avor. Anise is not related
to the licorice plant, whose roots are the source of true licorice. It is used in pepperoni
and other sausages.
allspice
Whole or ground, allspice is a dried, unripened fruit of a small evergreen tree. The
fruit is a pea-sized berry that is sun-dried to a reddish-brown color. It is called allspice
because its avor suggests a blend of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg. It is used in blood
sausages and pepperoni.
juniper
The juniper is a small shrub, 4 to 6 feet high. It is the berry that is used dried either
whole or ground. It has a slightly bitter avor.
onion
Used fresh or cooked, onion is also available and commonly used dehydrated,
chopped, or powdered. Flavor ranges from sweet and heavy to strong and hot. It is
used in terrines, sausages, and marinades.
pickling spice
A mixture of whole leaves, berries, and pods, pickling spice contains a range of avors
from sweet to spicy and tangy. It is used for pickling, canning, pickles, bread, butter,
tomatoes, peppers, eggs, and onions.
trufes
Trufes are one of the most expensive of the fungi, but they are packed with avor.
Raw trufes can be grated into salads or they can be chopped, sauted, and used to
avor sauces. The avor of trufes is complex, so they work best in delicately avored
dishes like cream sauces. Trufes are highly perishable, so you should plan to use them
within a few days after buying them. To preserve them, cut the trufes into slices and
add to bourbon, then use the bourbon and trufe pieces to avor sauce. Fresh trufes
are often sold in containers lled with rice. The rice absorbs some of the trufes exquisite avor and should be reserved for use. Morels or porcini can be substituted if
trufes are not available.
22
herb and spice chart

NAME
TYPE
AVAILABLE FORM(S)
USAGE (SAUSAGE)
ANISE
Seed
Whole, ground, oil
Italian
BASIL
Leaf
Crushed, ground
(dried)
Italian
CARDAMOM
Pod
Whole, ground
Cooked salami
CLOVE
Bud
Whole, ground
Braunschweiger
CHIVES
Leaf/Stem
Chopped (fresh,
dried)
Seafood sausage
CORIANDER
Seed
Whole, ground
Frankfurter
FENNEL
Seed
Whole, ground
Italian
MACE
Membrane
(covers nutmeg)
Ground
Wieners and
wursts
MARJORAM
Leaf
Crushed, ground
(dried)
Polish sausage
MUSTARD
Seed
Whole, ground
(dry)
Summer sausage
NUTMEG
Nut
Whole, ground
Frankfurter
OREGANO
Leaf
Crushed, ground
(dried)
Italian
PAPRIKA
Pod/Seed
Ground
Italian
PARSLEY
Leaf
Whole, chopped
(fresh, dry)
Italian
PEPPER,
CAYENNE
Pod/Seed
Ground
Cajun sausage
PEPPER, WHITE
Berry
Whole, ground
Weisswurst
PEPPERCORNS,
BLACK
Berry
Whole, ground
Italian
PEPPERCORNS,
GREEN
Berry
Whole (dried; in
brine)
Terrine
SAGE
Leaf
Whole, rubbed,
ground
Breakfast
23
sugar and other sweeteners

Sweeteners, including dextrose, granulated or brown sugar, corn syrup solids, honey, and maple sugar or syrup,
can be used interchangeably in most recipes. If you want
to make a substitution, remember that 1 oz/28 g of dextrose is the equivalent of oz/21 g granulated sugar.
Some sweeteners have very distinct avors, so be certain
the one you choose will add the taste you intend.
maple syrup and maple sugar

Maple syrup is made by boiling down the sap of the
sugar maple tree. Once almost all the water has been
boiled off, all that is left is a solid maple sugar. By composition, the sugar in the syrup and the sugar itself are
about 90 percent sucrose, the remainder consisting of
variable amounts of glucose and fructose. Maple sugar
is about twice as sweet as standard granulated sugar.
Maple sugar is difcult to make because the sugar easily
burns if boiled at too high of a temperature. It is often
used as an alternative to granulated sugar.
Sweeteners
TOP ROW: Corn syrup, honey,
molasses
MIDDLE ROW: Granulated sugar,
maple sugar, dextrose, turbinado
sugar
BOTTOM ROW: Palm sugar, jaggery,
brown sugar
brown sugar
Brown sugar is a mixture of superne sugar and molasses. It contains from 3.5 percent molasses (light brown sugar) to 6.5 percent molasses (dark brown sugar). It is
naturally moist since molasses retains a lot of water, and is often referred to as soft.
The particles are generally smaller than granulated white sugar. When a recipe here
calls for brown sugar, it refers to dark brown sugar; light brown sugar should only be
used when specied.
Brown sugar can be made by mixing superne sugar with molasses, using 1 tbsp/15
mL molasses to 1 cup/240 mL superne sugar (16 or 6.25 percent of the total volume). The resulting product after mixing will be dark brown sugar. To make light
brown sugar, use 1 to 2 tsp/5 to 10 mL molasses for every cup of superne sugar.
sucrose
Sucrose is common table sugar and is processed from two main sources: sugarcane
and sugar beets. It is 100 percent relative sweetness. In addition to adding avor, it also
acts as and may be used as a preservative as it will hedge against pathogens.
dextrose
As glucose, dextrose is 70 percent on the sweetness scale. It is the best choice for encouraging fermentation as it provides the best source of energy for growth.
24
corn syrup and corn syrup solids

These consist of a mixture of carbohydrates. Corn syrup is the best choice for promoting browning during cooking. Also, corn syrup works to increase water retention.
seasonings in specic meat products

Most sausages in the United States have a European base. New sausage products
include Mexican, Cajun, Caribbean, and Asian products. The use of different ingredients, along with new seasonings, can give them new avor proles. This can
increase the marketability of these products, allow creation of more upscale products,
and form a basis of ingredients in gourmet cooking. There are also many possibilities
to create a healthier product that can be menued as appetizers or even featured as an
entre on ne-dining menus.
Cured products, such as ham, bacon, Canadian bacon, and so on, use little or no
spices. Seasonings, such as allspice, cloves, cinnamon, and garlic and their extractives, are
not used often in the curing of these products and if they are used, they are only used
in small amounts, since the spices will impart a very strong avor to the cured products.
Milder seasonings such as salt, pepper, mustard, and sweeteners are used instead.
The following common European-based sausages use fairly standard seasonings.
Recipes for many appear in Chapter 8.
frankfurters/hot dogs
The avor of most frankfurters comes from black pepper and nutmeg. Sometimes
coriander may be used for a lighter, sweeter avor. Beef frankfurters have a distinct
garlic avor, and onion is a popular avor in chicken hot dogs.
Regardless of the type of frankfurter, smoke is an important avoring agent in
frankfurters. It is not a spice, but it can be confusing when tasting two products for
avor comparison and it is the only difference. Mustard is another common spice
used in making frankfurters. Frankfurters are eaten warm in order to bring out more
avors in the product.
what is in a frankfurters seasoning?

Much of what is in a frankfurter is detailed on the products label. The label must
show the ingredients in order of predominance. For example:
Pork, water, beef, salt, corn syrup solids, dextrose, spices, sodium erythorbate, and
sodium nitrite.
The amounts of some of the additives are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration. Corn syrup solids, sodium phosphate, sodium erythorbate, and sodium nitrite are regular ingredients found in frankfurter seasonings. Corn syrup solids
25
are used to bind the meat, as well as sweeten it, and are regulated to a maximum of
2 percent of the nished product. Sodium erythorbate is allowed up to 78 oz/24.5 g
per 100 lb/45.36 kg meat, or 550 ppm (parts per million). Sodium nitrite is regulated
to oz/7 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg meat, or 156 ppm.
If used, sodium phosphates are regulated to 0.5 percent of the nished product.
Protein content of the product will determine mustard usage. Mustard can be used to
about 3 percent of the nished product. If using more than 1.5 percent, the correct
mustard to use is deheated mustard, so that the emulsion does not break down.
SOME EXAMPLES OF THE FLAVORS OF SEASONINGS THAT

STIMULATE THE MOUTH
BLACK PEPPER: Tip of the tongue

NUTMEG: Pungent, sweet avor on the tongue
CORIANDER: Sweet oral note along the roof of the mouth
RED PEPPER: Delayed tickle or heat in throat
GARLIC: Hearty avor on tongue
ONION: Complements and sweetens garlic
HYDROLYZED PROTEIN (SOY, CORN, OR WHEAT): A protein obtained from
various foods (like soybeans, corn or wheat), which are then broken down into amino
acids by a chemical process called acid hydrolysis. Hydrolyzed plant or vegetable
protein is used as a avor enhancer in numerous processed foods like soups, chilis,
sauces, stews, and some meat products like frankfurters.
bologna
Bologna has the same type of avor as frankfurters. The common difference between
the two is that bologna usually has garlic in addition to the other spices. Because bologna is served cold, the garlic increases the overall avor.
smoked sausage
There are two types of smoked sausage: Wisconsin and hot link. The avor of a
Wisconsin smoked sausage comes from coriander, black pepper, and high levels of
dextrose. The avor of hot link smoked sausages comes from a good amount of sage
and red pepper. Both products earn their name from the heavy smoke application
they undergo. The smoke and dextrose blend to create a desirable avor.
kielbasa/Polish sausage
Polish sausage and kielbasa are similar to smoked sausage. The avor of Polish sausage comes from black pepper, coriander, nutmeg, and garlic. Marjoram is usually
added to kielbasa to give it a unique avor.
26
fresh pork sausage

Black pepper and sage are the typical avors in pork sausage. Red pepper can be
added to create hot varieties. Dextrose is added to help the browning characteristics
of the sausage.
bratwurst
Black pepper and nutmeg are typical avors in bratwurst. Corn syrup and dextrose
are used in bratwurst for added browning.
Italian sausage
Black pepper and fennel are the typical avors in Italian sausage. Mild Italian sausages have garlic added for avor. Red pepper and paprika are added to hot Italian
sausages for avor and color.
liverwurst/braunschweiger
White pepper, nutmeg, and onion are the typical avors in liverwurst. Bacon is added
to create braunschweiger, which can be smoked. These products benet from the
sweet avor of nonfat dry milk.
cotto (cooked) salami
Black pepper, nutmeg, and garlic are typical avors of salami. Whole or cracked black
pepper aids the visual impact of this sausage.
pepperoni
Black pepper, red pepper, paprika, and garlic are typical seasonings used in pepperoni.
In addition, a signicant avor is the tang produced by a lactic acid starter culture.
summer sausage
Black pepper and nutmeg are the typical avors of summer sausage. Garlic is sometimes added, particularly to beef summer sausage. The tang produced by a lactic
acid starter culture is an important avor of summer sausage. Summer sausages are
not as dry as pepperoni.
dry sausage
Dry sausages are sausages that have not been cooked. Drying over long periods of
time gives them a distinct avor and rmness. Black pepper, nutmeg, garlic, and wines
give them their typical and unique avors.
27
avor combinations used in meat processing

MEAT
FLAVORINGS
BEEF (GENERAL)
Basil, dill, marjoram, mustard seeds, peppercorns,

rosemary, sage, thyme
BEEF (BRAISED)
Bay leaves, marjoram, summer savory, tarragon
CORNED BEEF
Dill seed, dill, peppercorns
GROUND MEAT
Celery seed, chervil, cumin (ground), curry powder,

oregano, summer savory
HAM
Cloves, mustard (dry), rosemary
HAM GLAZE
Allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mustard, nutmeg (all

should be ground)
KIDNEYS
Basil, caraway seed, rosemary, summer savory, thyme
LAMB
Basil, cumin, dill seed, dill, lemon, mint, sage, summer

savory, oregano, rosemary, tarragon
LIVER
Basil, caraway seed, fennel seed, marjoram, nutmeg

(ground), oregano, thyme
PORK
Anise seed, basil, caraway seed, coriander seed, fennel

seed, dill weed, marjoram, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme
SHISH KEBAB
Bay leaves, marjoram
SPARERIBS
Celery seed, mustard (dry), oregano, summer savory
STEWS
Anise seed, bay leaves, celery seed, chervil, oregano,

rosemary, sage, tarragon
SWEETBREADS
Dill, tarragon
TONGUE
Bay leaves, thyme
TRIPE
Bay leaves, cumin, thyme
VEAL
Basil, dill, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary,

saffron, summer savory, tarragon, thyme
As well as removing moisture from the meat, nitrates and nitrites decompose to
nitric oxide (NO) over time. This chemical slows the formation of rancid and sour
avors, and creates a sharp avoring in meat. Nitric oxide also binds with myoglobin
in the muscle bers to maintain color and create the characteristic bright pink associated with cured meats. Nitrates break down to nitric oxide much slower than nitrites,
28
as nitrates must rst be broken down into nitrites by naturally occurring bacteria in
the meat. Thus, nitrates are typically used on foods that have a long curing and drying
process. Sodium nitrate and nitrite have replaced potassium nitrate in the preserving
process, and sodium nitrite is currently the primary salt used.
CONCERNS OVER THE USE OF NITRATE AND NITRITES
There are several concerns related to the use of nitrates and nitrites. The most
prominent concern is the formation of nitrosamines via the binding of nitrates to
amino acids, which are a by-product of the degradation of proteins. A study done in
the 1970s showed that rats that were exposed to nitrosamines developed malignant
tumors. As a result, the USDA and FDA placed restrictions on the amount of residual
nitrates and nitrites on food to 200 parts per million (0.02 percent) or lower. However,
it becomes exceptionally hard to deal with such small amounts of the ingredient. Thus,
premade mixtures are available for purchase: Insta Cure No. 1 and Insta Cure No. 2.
Insta Cure No. 1 is a blend of 6 percent sodium nitrite and 94 percent sodium
chloride (table salt). It has a distinctive pink color, which is why it is also known as
Tinted Cure Mix (TCM). Insta Cure No. 2 is much like its counterpart, but contains
sodium nitrate instead of nitrite. As a further precaution, the FDA requires meat
packers to use antioxidants such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C), citric acid, or a vitamin C
derivative (sodium ascorbate or sodium erythorbate) to further prevent the formation of
nitrosamines.
The USDA recommends the following ratios of meat to nitrate/nitrite:
TYPE OF MEAT
NITRITE LEVEL (PPM)
NITRATE LEVEL (PPM)
Bacon, pumped (injected

with the brine 10%)
120 (with 550 ppm

ascorbate or erythorbate)
None
Bacon, immersion-cured
(immersed in the brine)
200 (2 lb/907 g to
100 gal/384 L brine)
None
Cooked sausage
156 ( oz/7 g to
100 lb/45.36 kg meat)
None
Dry and semidry sausage
625 (1 oz/28 g to
100 lb/45.36 kg meat,
dry-cured)
1,719 (2 oz/76 g
to 100 lb/45.36 kg
meat)
Dry-cured meats
156 ( oz/7 g to
100 lb/45.36 kg meat)
2,188 (2 lb/907
g to 100 gal/384
L brine at 10 %
pump (10% in brine
of the total weight
is injected into
product)
29
other ingredients used in charcuterie

sodium caseinate
Sodium caseinate is a derivative of the protein casein found in milk. The casein is
extracted from milk curd after it is dried to 45 percent of its original water weight,
at which point it has a pH level between 6.5 and 7. Once extracted, the casein is
treated with sodium hydroxide, which results in the end product, sodium caseinate.
This protein derivative is a very versatile substance, as it can be used as a fat emulsier,
a stabilizer, a thickener, and it can also be used to add texture. Furthermore, being a
protein derivative, it also has nutritional value and is water soluble, making it much
more versatile than other ingredients used for the same reasons.
potassium nitrate/sodium nitrate/sodium nitrite
Potassium nitrate (KNO3), sodium nitrate (NaNO3), and sodium nitrite (NaNO2) are
all salts that are or have been used in the preservation of meat. They help preserve
meat by drawing internal moisture from the meat bers, making the meat uninhabitable by undesirable bacteria. This allows for foods to be smoked for long periods of
time at temperatures below 100F/38C without fear of bacteria, such as Clostridium
botulinum (the bacterium that causes botulism), growing on the product.
As well as removing moisture from the meat, nitrates and nitrites decompose to
nitric oxide (NO) over time. This chemical slows the formation of rancid and sour
avors, and creates a sharp avoring in meat. Nitric oxide also binds with myoglobin
in the muscle bers to maintain color and create the characteristic bright pink associated with cured meats. Nitrates break down to nitric oxide much slower than nitrites,
as nitrates must rst be broken down into nitrites by naturally occurring bacteria in
the meat. Thus, nitrates are typically used on foods that have a long curing and drying
process. Sodium nitrate and nitrite have replaced potassium nitrate in the preserving
process, and sodium nitrite is currently the primary salt used.
ascorbic acid/sodium ascorbate
Ascorbatessodium erythorbate (sodium iso-ascorbate) and citric acidreduce oxidation and subsequent off-avor and off-color that would result from oxidation. They
speed the curing reaction by the rapid reduction of nitrates and nitrites to nitrous acid
and ultimately nitric oxide that combines with myoglobin in the muscle tissues to x
the cured color, about 0.01 percent for citric acid and 0.05 percent for erythorbate.
Ascorbic acid, otherwise known as vitamin C, prevents the oxidation of fats and
proteins, which in turn prevents spoiling. They prevent the fats and proteins from oxidizing by allowing themselves to be oxidized before other substances.
sodium erythorbate/erythorbic acid
Erythorbic acid and sodium erythorbate are stereoisomers of ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate; that is, their chemical structures are the same, but the orientation of
the atoms in the molecule is slightly different. These chemicals are isolated and created in a much easier and less expensive fashion than their counterpart, ascorbic acid.
Thus, these are much more commonly used.
30
citric acid
Citric acid has many uses in food. It can be used in combination with ascorbic or
erythorbic acid as a preservative, as well as a substitute for lemon juice. Citric acid can
be added to keep fat globules separate, which is why citric acid can be utilized as an
emulsier. It helps to keep fats dissolved and distributed evenly throughout a product.
Its purpose is to break down large clumps of fat into smaller pockets of fat that are
more easily dissolved.
ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and sodium erythorbate
These additives speed up the chemical conversion of nitrite to nitric oxide, which in
turn will react with meat myoglobin to create a pink color. They also deplete levels of
meat oxygen and prevent the fading of the cured meat color.
Sodium erythorbate (C6H7NaO6) is a food additive used predominantly in meats,
poultry, and soft drinks. Chemically, it is the sodium salt of erythorbic acid. When
used in processed meat such as hot dogs and beef sticks, it reduces the rate at which
nitrate reduces to nitric oxide, thus retaining the pink coloring. As an antioxidant
structurally related to vitamin C, it helps improve avor stability and prevents the
formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines.
sodium tripolyphosphate
Phosphates are used to improve the water-binding capacity of the meat, solubilize
proteins, act as antioxidants, and stabilize the avor and color of the product. Their
maximum benet to the processor is to reduce purge, or water that is cooked out
of product. Phosphates also help to increase shelf life of a product. The maximum
amount of phosphates approved for sausage products is limited to 0.5 percent of the
nished product weight. If used, they must be food-grade.
INGREDIENT
MAXIMUM AMOUNT
Ascorbic acid
oz/21 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg of meat
Erythorbic acid
oz/21 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg of meat
Sodium erythorbate
78
Citric acid
May replace up to 50 percent of above listed ingredients
Sodium citrate
May replace up to 50 percent of above listed ingredients
Sodium acid
pyrophosphate
Alone or in combination with others may not exceed 8 oz

(0.5%)
Glucono delta lactone

(GDL)
8 oz/227 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg of meat
/ oz/25 g per 100 lb/45.36 kg of meat
31
other ingredients used in charcuterie

ITEM
USE/FUNCTION(S)
NOTE(S)
SALT
Preservative; avor
enhancer; improves
binding (emulsion)
Kills trichina over a period of time
TCM (TINTED CURE MIX)/

CURING SALT/PRAGUE
POWDER I/INSTA CURE
NO. 1
Brings out the rich red

color in cured meats; kills
botulism
Composed of 94% salt, 6% sodium nitrite; not used in

fresh sausage
SALTPETER (POTASSIUM
NITRATE)
Use in sausage
production; greatly limited
after 1975 by USDA
Not currently used
DEXTROSE
Counteracts bitterness
in liver; counteracts
harshness of salt; helps
stabilize color when using
TCM; aids in fermentation
of salami-type products
SODIUM ERYTHORBATE/
SODIUM ASCORBATE/
ASCORBIC ACID/CITRIC
ACID
Helps retain color; slows

down nitrite reaction;
antioxidant: reduces
molecular oxygen levels,
inhibiting decomposition
First three are basically the same; citric acid is similar to

sodium ascorbate; expensive
SODIUM CASEINATE
Secondary binder; helps

prevent shrinkage
Very slight but pleasing taste
NONFAT DRY MILK
Secondary binder;
prevents shrinkage of
sausages
Very slight but pleasing taste
SODIUM PHOSPHATE
Secondary binder;
improves binding and
makes the emulsion
creamier; improves
product yield
Phosphates are widely used in the meat industry.

Phosphates used include: sodium tripolyphosphate,
tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium hexametaphosphate,
sodium acid pyrophosphate, disodium phosphate, etc.
32
other ingredients used in charcuterie (continued)

ITEM
USE/FUNCTION(S)
NOTE(S)
SODIUM
TRIPOLYPHOSPHATE
Alkaline phosphate salts

(sodium tripolyphosphate
and tetrasodium
pyrophosphate) elevate
the pH of meat, thus
improving its waterholding power.
The acid reacting phosphates (alkali-metal salts or

ortophosphoric acid and pyrophosphoric acid), on the
contrary, lower the pH.
Although both sodium tripolyphosphate and tetrasodium
pyrophosphate are superior to all other phosphates,
sodium tripolyphosphates have a higher solubility and are
less prone to form insoluble precipitates. Sodium acid
pyrophosphate in particular is often utilized in sausages.
The permissible maximum concentration of residual
phosphates in meat products is set at 0.5%.
Phosphates also retard development of oxidative
rancidity in meat products.
SOY PROTEIN/SOY
CONCENTRATE/SOY
PROTEIN ISOLATE
Improves binding
Soy protein is made from hulled, aked, and de-oiled soybeans. Soy protein concentrates have a bland taste. An
isolate is achieved by extracting the proteins with water at
high pH of approximately 10.
Soy protein concentrate, often called SPC, is basically
soybean without the water-soluble carbohydrates. Soy
protein concentrate contains about 70% protein. Will
absorb as much as 70% of its weight in water.
Soy protein isolate, often called SPI, is the most rened
form of soy protein and is mainly used in meat products
to improve texture and mouthfeel. Soy protein isolate
contains about 90% protein and will absorb as much as
90% of its weight in water.
WATER
Dispersing medium for

salts, nitrites, phosphates,
and other curing
ingredients; assists in
maintaining moist, juicy
end product; compensates
for moisture loss during
hot smoking (thermal
processing)
33
starter cultures, fermentation,

and drying
There is an acceptable range of temperatures that correspond to each particular process. When starter cultures are used, the fermentation temperature can vary from the
minimum to the maximum recommended by the manufacturers setting,
BACTOFERM T-SPX: Slow-fermented
culture for traditional fermentation proles

applying fermentation temperatures not higher than 75F/24C; 78 oz/25 g of
culture ferments 441 lb/200 kg of meat.
BACTOFERM F-LC: Bio-protective
culture capable of acidication as well as

preventing growth of Listeria monocytogenes. This can be added for production
of fermented sausage with a short production type. The culture works in a
wide temperature range. Low fermentation temperatures 77F/25C result in
traditional acidication prole, whereas high fermentation temperatures 95
to 115F/35 to 46C give a product that is sought for in the United States.
Seventh-eighths ounce/25 g of culture ferments 220 lb/100 kg of meats.
FERMENTO: A
dairy-based powdered product that is added to sausages during

production to eliminate the necessary curing times that allow for fermentation.
34
pt spice mix #1
MAKES 13 OZ/369 G
3 oz/85 g ground cloves

3 oz/85 g ground coriander
Combine all ingredients and grind them using a mortar and pestle, spice grinder,
or blender. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
1 oz/50 g dried thyme

1 oz/43 g white
peppercorns
1 oz/43 g ground nutmeg
1 oz/28 g dried cpes
oz/21 g ground mace
oz/14 g bay leaves
four-spice mix
MAKES 6 OZ/170 G
4 oz/113 g ground
white pepper
Combine and mix all ingredients together. Store in an airtight container in a

cool, dry place.
1 oz/28 g ground ginger

1 oz/28 g ground nutmeg
2 tsp/10 mL ground cloves
35
pt spice mix #2
MAKES 10 TBSP/150 ML
7 tbsp/105 mL white
peppercorns
Combine all ingredients and grind them using a mortar and pestle, spice grinder,
or blender. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
1 tbsp/15 mL
ground nutmeg
1 tbsp/15 mL cloves
1 tbsp/15 mL ground
cinnamon
dry-cured capacolla
spice mix
MAKES 2/ TBSP/37.5 ML
1 tsp/7.5 mL sweet
or hot paprika
Combine and mix together the ingredients. Store in an airtight container in a

cool, dry place.
1 tsp/7.5 mL cayenne
1 tsp/7.5 mL ground
fennel seeds
1 tbsp/15 mL ground
black pepper
36
coppa spice mixes

MAKES 4/ OZ/132 G
HOT SPICE MIX
cup/32 g hot paprika

1 tbsp/9 g cayenne
SWEET MIX
3 tbsp/40 g granulated sugar
Combine the ingredients of the desired mix and mix together. If making the
Sweet Mix, grind them using a mortar and pestle or a blender. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
Note: Gram weight is more precise for obtaining the avors of the coppa, but volume measurements are provided if a digital scale is unavailable.
2 tbsp/20 g ground
black pepper
1 tbsp/8 g ground coriander
2 tsp/12 g minced garlic
1 tsp/4 g ground mace
1 tsp/4 g allspice berries
tsp/3 g juniper berries
bratwurst seasoning mix

MAKES 2 LB 8 OZ/1.13 KG
2 lb/907 g kosher salt

6 oz/170 g ground
white pepper
Combine and mix all ingredients together. Store in an airtight container in a

cool, dry place.
1 oz/14 g rubbed sage

oz/14 g ground
celery seed
oz/14 g ground mace
37
meats,
poultry, &
seafood
chapter three
We will explore raw meats and seafood that are used in
the charcuterie kitchen.
using meats and seafood in the

charcuterie kitchen
All meat intended for human consumption must be inspected in accordance with
established programs of federal, state, and/or local governments.
Charcuterie is an art of meat transformation. All type of meats are used to create
numerous items. Scraps from previous fabrication that would have otherwise been
wasted can be used. The charcuterie kitchen is a great way to effectively use up any
extra ingredients. All the usual cooking methods are practiced, such as poaching,
roasting, and baking, as well as brining, curing, and smoking. Arrays of items can be
made using different combination of choices from all preparation methods.
Another factor in the variety of charcuterie items that can be produced is the
selection of meats available. Pork, beef, lamb, game meats, poultry, sh, and seafood
can all be used. Every animal used for consumption has a similar muscle construction,
but the characteristics and muscle science of meats are so complex that the nished
product will be affected greatly by the difference in the meats used. Fish and seafood,
of course, have the biggest difference. The protein structure is what holds the meat
together and affects the texture of every product. Every aspect of meat has an inuence on the products made in the charcuterie kitchen.
Cleaning items used for charcuterie will be different for each specic use. When
I refer to clean meat, I mean that pork, beef, lamb, and veal should be handled in
the following manner: the item is trimmed of excess fat and sinew, and cartilage is
removed. Then the meat is cubed to 1 inch. When I use these products for sausages,
I separate the fat from meat and from all the sinew. The fat I will not use but replace
with fat back, jowl fat, or pork bellies. If the pork recipe calls for a product with the
ratio of 80 percent meat and 20 percent fat, you can use the straight pork or an item
that is similar in the fat : meat ratio.
the science of meat

Basic meat science is mostly the same for all species of meats. Muscle organization is
the general formation of a solid muscle mass. To understand the different textures of
meats, an understanding of the parts of the muscle that make up the meat is needed.
The chemical and physical characteristics of the muscle are a function of its parts, the
composition, and what makes up the entire muscle. The composition refers to the ratio of water to fat to proteins within the body. The chemical structure of the proteins
in the muscle give it its unique texture and is the main reason meat is edible.
The progression of life and advancement of millions of species on Earth can
be observed by looking deep and understanding the composition and complexity of
muscle. All animals have strands of cells that come together as very strong proteinrich organs. Ironically, these muscles that allow animals to strive are the fuel for hu-
40
MEATS, POULTRY, & SEAFOOD
manity. Rarely do we look at our steak dinner and understand what has happened
scientically to allow that piece of meat to be on our table.
Muscle makes up 40 percent of total body weight of an animal and has three
general types: skeletal, cardiac, and smooth muscle. They all have very distinct differences in purpose, complexity, and shape. What all do have in common, though, is
that they all contain many types of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, and essential trace
elements. The collaboration of these elements coming together creates a product that
provides strength for movement for one organism and edible nutrition for another.
structure of meat
In analyzing meat, it is easy to realize its importance in our consumption and capability to thrive. Meat has many different proteins and carbohydrates, and is put together
in a very complex structure to form a gracefully productive organ. The protein that
meat contains contributes to our bodys protein, which constitutes 54 percent of our
body mass. The trace elements such as iron and different sultes are used in our own
body for the same process as in any animal. We cannot survive without consuming
protein. It is possible to nd it and other nutrients in plants, but meat gives it to us in
an abundant source. We know to look for meat with bright red color, tender nature,
and good marbling. Little do we know that we analyzed the entire chemical background of a piece of meat by those visual elements of quality.
COMPOSITION OF LEAN RED MEAT
75 PERCENT WATER
20 PERCENT PROTEIN
Sarcoplasmic: soluble in low-strength salt solutions
Myobrillar: structural type, soluble in concentrated salt solutions
Connective: insoluble in salt solution at low temperatures
3 PERCENT FAT
2 PERCENT NONNITROGENOUS SOLUBLE SUBSTANCES
(carbohydrates, minerals, lactic acid)
muscle structure and composition

Muscle has a very interesting composition. The cell structure is much different from
any other type of cell. The single muscle ber has an outer coating called the sarcoplasmic reticulum, or sarcolemma. This contains individual threads called brils that
are roped and woven together to form a casing for the muscles, surrounding them
and keeping them together in a tight bundle. Woven into the sarcolemma are mitochondria, known as the powerhouses of the cell. They are organelles in the cell that
take in nutrients and convert them into energy for the cell. On the outer edge of this
bundle, just under the sarcolemma, is the nucleus of the bers. Each ber contains
myobrillar, a structure similar to brils that holds protein gel together (the substance
41
that allows contraction) and makes up 80 percent of the bers volume. These muscle
bers work together in clusters that are attached to bone via a tendon unless the muscle
is a cardiac muscle, which has more of a crosshatched or webbed nature and is used
for the repetitive motion of circulating blood to the rest of the body. In smooth muscle
cells, this alignment is absent; hence, there are no apparent striations and so the muscle
looks smooth.
muscle composition: proteins

When muscles are observed on a molecular and chemical level, many interesting aspects are noticed. Protein is the driving force of all muscle ber. There are a plethora
of different types of protein that join together to make muscles work. The three main
groups of proteins are myobrillar, sarcoplasmic, and stromal. Each type of protein
holds its own purpose in the muscle composition.
Myobrillar proteins are the converters of chemical energy into a reaction between the proteins in muscle bers. The reaction between the proteins is what makes
the muscles stretch or contract. The main proteins within myobrillars are myosin (54
percent), actin (21 percent), and tropomyosin (15 percent), with other less signicant
proteins making up the last 10 percent. These protein strands are laid next to and
between each other. There are thick and thin strands, the thick made of the protein
myosin and the thin of mainly actin and tropomyosin. These thick and thin strands are
interconnected, with six thin strands surrounding each thick strand. Chemical energy
from carbohydrates is converted by the mitochondria and makes the thick strands pull
the thin strands closer together or lets them stretch out. This process is what gives muscles movement. One segment of these thick and thin strands is called a sarcomere (Greek
for part of muscle). These segments connect together to form the long strands of
muscle ber, which, in bundles, constitute muscle. Muscle contraction is initiated by
release of small amounts of calcium ions. This process is also seen after death, when
animals muscles stiffen due to the release of these calcium ions. The release, along
with other factors, decreases the length of sarcomeres. This is called rigor mortis. In a
nutshell, the myobrillar proteins are the contractile or action proteins.
Proteins that do not necessarily have anything to do with the movement or contractile traits of muscle are sarcoplasmic proteins, representing other functionality and
mechanics behind the movement of muscles. The duties of these proteins include transporting electrons, functions of metabolism, and carrying pigment. Myoglobin is the
protein that stores oxygen in the cells and gives fresh meat its red color. The color we see
in cut meat in stores is also affected by hemoglobin, another sarcoplasmic protein. When
meat is bled out postmortem (following death), some hemoglobin and blood plasma are
left behind. These proteins are responsible for transporting oxygen and brighten when
exposed to air postmortem. If there is too much hemoglobin left after bleeding due to
improper procedure, the meat can take on the darker color sometimes seen in the center
of ground meat. This color is due to the proteins not being able to breathe in enough
oxygen to give the meat fresh color; other aspects of quality can also be affected. More
minor sarcoplasmic proteins include other enzymes and proteases. These contribute to
other aspects of functionality, such as changing the structure of carbohydrates.
42
Stromal protein gives structure like myobrillar protein and does not act in the
transport of nutrients or enzymatic activity like sarcoplasmic proteins. The two main
proteins in the category of stromal protein are the connective tissues of collagen and
elastin. These proteins are mostly insoluble. When meat is cooked, these are the proteins that do not change and are not digestible by humans. As animals age, more
connective tissue is formed, which makes meat tougher. But the overall percentage of
stromal protein is lower over time as a percentage of total muscle protein. This means
that more muscle has been formed than connective tissue, but the connective tissue
has become more dispersed and supportive of the muscle. This growth does not contribute to the quality of edible meat. Other adverse effects stromal proteins have on
meat quality are that they decrease emulsifying capabilities of meat, lower the waterholding capabilities, and lower the nutritional value. Basically, an old animal with lots
of connective tissue is nearly worthless in comparison to a young animal.
muscle composition: carbohydrates

Even considering all types of protein, one compound in the bodies of animals, carbohydrates, is more responsible for their proper functioning than any other. Carbohydrates
are long chains of different kinds of sugars. These chains are made of simple sugars like
glucose or fructose (called monosaccharides) and complex sugars like sucrose and lactose
(polysaccharides). The exact name of each type of carbohydrate depends on its length
and what sugars it is made up of. Their names also correspond with their function in different processes in the body. The levels of carbohydrates present at the point of slaughter
will affect the meat color, rmness, emulsifying ability, shelf life, and overall texture. As a
result, the carbohydrate levels in certain meats will change the quality of that meat. Also,
the Maillard reaction that develops appealing avor in cooked meats includes some carbonyl groups of carbohydrates as vital elements to interact with protein.
muscle composition: lipids and fats

Lipids, along with protein and carbohydrates, constitute the three principal structural
components of living cells. They are not miscible with water and include fats, waxes,
phosphates, and related compounds. Lipids are created and stored by animals and
plants as a concentrated form of energy with twice the calories as the same weight of
either sugar or starch. They tenderize many foods by permeating and weakening the
structure, provide avor, and add smoothness. There are two main types of fatty acids:
saturated and unsaturated. Saturated fatty acids are long chains of hydrocarbons, or
chains of carbon-carbon bonds with branches. These branches are full of, or saturated with, hydrogen atoms. Unsaturated fatty acids are hydrocarbon chains that have
branches that, instead of being full with hydrogen, are bonded with one another.
Fatty acid composition is affected by the following:
DIETEspecially in pigs and chickens

ANATOMICAL LOCATIONInterior (leaf fat) is more saturated than subcutaneous
TYPE OF LIPIDPhospholipids are more unsaturated than triglycerides
43
Fatty acid composition affects:
MELTING POINTImpacts sausage manufacture and the temperature of

fermentation.
TEXTUREUnsaturated fats are softer than saturated fats.
FLAVOR STABILITYUnsaturated fats are vulnerable to oxidation, leading to
rancidity. Beef is more stable than pork, and pork is more stable than chicken.
Saturated fatty acids primarily come from animal products such as meat and
dairy. In general, animal fats are solid at room temperature. Saturated fats are more
stable than unsaturated fats, making them less vulnerable to rancidity. Animal fats are
about half saturated and half unsaturated and solid at room temperature. Beef and
lamb fats are harder than pork or poultry fats because more of the fatty acids in the
meat are saturated.
Unsaturated fatty acids are not fully saturated with hydrogen atoms because of
the presence of carbon-carbon double bonds (the branches on the chain bind with
each other and strengthen the bond between adjacent carbon bonds). The double
bond leaves an open space unprotected by hydrogen atoms on one side of the chain,
making them more susceptible for rancidity. Most vegetable fats are about 85 percent
unsaturated fats. They are much healthier than saturated fats, and are liquid at room
temperature. They can be saturated by using a process called hydrogenation, which
breaks apart the branches and adds hydrogen atoms back to them.
Most fatty acids in meats are found bound to a molecule called glycerol. Glycerol
is a three-carbon chain with each of the three carbons branched with a hydrogen
and an alcohol (oxygen bound to hydrogen). Fatty acids bind to the alcohols on the
glycerol to create fats. The composition of these fats are affected by the number of
fatty acids that bind to the glycerol, whether it be one, two, or three. Fatty acids can
be transformed by heat and oxygen into molecules that smell fruity or oral. They
give different meats their distinctive avors. For example, compounds from foraged
plants give beef its cowy avor; in pigs and ducks, the avor comes from intestinal
microbes and their fat-soluble products of amino acid metabolism. The sweetness in
pork also comes from lactones, the molecule that gives peaches and coconuts their
character.
Fats are susceptible to being changed by oxygen. Exposure to oxygen over time
causes a chain reaction in the fats, changing the composition and degrading them.
This is called lipid oxidation. Lipid oxidation cannot be prevented, but it can be delayed with careful handling: wrap meat tightly in plastic wrap, keep it in the dark,
store it in the coldest corner of the freezer, and use it as soon as possible. Salt encourages the lipid oxidation, so the less salt you use, the slower the meat will spoil after
being cooked. Also, herbs like rosemary can prevent oxidation. Browning the meat
surface in a pan, as in searing, also delays lipid oxidation.
44
color in meat
Color is the rst impression we have when choosing meat. The color could range from
bright red to gray or even green, in extremes. Meat colors come from the muscle pigment myoglobin. Myoglobin stores oxygen for the muscles in animals; it has a high
afnity for oxygen. This means that exposure to air will quickly lead to the attachment
of oxygen molecules to myoglobin, forming oxymyoglobin. Oxymyoglobin is bright
red in color in fresh meat. Both myoglobin and oxymyoglobin can become oxidized.
The resulting pigment, memyoglobin, is brown-gray in color. This develops when
meat is aged, spoiled, or improperly handled, and is hard to reverse. Fresh meat color
tends to change in a fairly short time and curing methods have been developed partly
because they help meat retain its color longer under proper storage conditions.
Meat color depends on:
MYOGLOBINShow much
IRON AND PROTEIN STRUCTUREwhether the protein is raw or cooked
chemical and physical characteristics

of meat
The chemical and physical characteristics of meats are the qualities that make it an
edible product. Chemical characteristics involve the chemical structure of the muscle
tissues. The tissue components vary with species, maturity, harvesting location, nutritional intake, genetics, and the different cuts of the carcass. The chemical composition of the muscle is approximately 75 percent water, 19 percent protein, 2.5 percent
fats, 1.5 percent non-protein compounds, 1 percent carbohydrates, and 1 percent
inorganic matter.
general physical characteristics

The physical characteristics are aspects such as texture forming, water-holding capacity, ber swelling, solubility, gelation, color, emulsication, binding, and palatability.
water retention
Water in the meat exists in a bound form, attached in some way to proteins or fats,
or as a free liquid. Water affects the overall juiciness and tenderness of cooked meat.
Bound water is held throughout the proteins; free-owing water is held in different
compartments. Salt and phosphates added to meat improve water retention once it
is cooked. Water-holding capacity is the ability of meat to retain its own or added
moisture. It can be increased by the use of salt or sodium phosphate. It is the most important factor in the evaluation of meat quality. Water in meat is primarily contained
in the myobrillar lattice (the casing around the muscle strands) and as the pH drops
45
closer to the isoelectric point (5.0 to 5.1) of myosin and actin, water-binding capacity
is at a minimum. The isolectric point refers to the pH at which there is no net charge
on a compound. Higher pH values result in greater net charges on muscle protein and
greater percentages of bound and immobilized water, keeping natural juices bound in
the cells and reducing drip loss.
solubility
Solubility is the percentage of original protein that dissolves under specic conditions.
Heat, pH, and other factors contribute to the solubility of proteins. Ions, phosphates,
and the amount of muscle ber have an effect on the extractability.
gelation
Gelation is the ability to form a gel once meat is cooked and cooled. Once the meat
has heat applied to it, many of the proteins unfold and change structure, strands are
formed, and the muscle bers contract, entrapping water that together forms a gel.
This gel acts as an adhesive to bind most meat particles, stabilizes fat globules, entraps
avor, and immobilizes water. This affects the texture of the meat or the product
made with gel. Foods that are processed or made with a large amount of water usually
need a form of gelatin added to them.
color
Color, or pigment, is an important physical characteristic. A good color depends on
the freshness of the meat. Fresh raw meat is known to have a bright color, and fresh
cooked meat should have a gray or tan color. Myoglobins are the primary meat pigment, and color depends on the amount that is present in the meat.
emulsication and binding

Emulsication has to do with the amount of fat globules being dispersed and stabilized evenly throughout the muscle bers and proteins. This inuences the texture
and helps with the binding process of meat. When we take ground meat that has salt
added, we pool the myosins out to help bind everything, and we add water to it to
disperse the proteins so that they can absorb a certain amount of fat. We then mix in
fat by mixing with a paddle or mixing with a high-speed cutter to form a homogenous
and almost spongy mixture. The mixture can be chunky or a smooth paste, as in bologna. We need to mix the protein with the water that it has in it or any extra that has
been added, then we mix in the fat. This process is like what happens when you make
Hollandaise sauce. You add liquid to the protein to thin it or disperse it so that it can
accept the fat that you are going to mix into it.
Bind-in sausages and forcemeat are products that, when cooked, will hold together without losing a lot of water, fat, and texture.
46
palatability
Palatability is the most important characteristic. The taste of the meat depends on all
the other characteristics put together. For a meat to be palatable, it must be juicy, tender, and avorful. This is all affected by the fat content, moisture content, and muscle
bers with good marbling.
muscle organization
The muscle organization of meat used in charcuterie is a lot like human muscle. Live
cells join together and lead to the formation of organs and tissues. There are three
types of muscles in the body: striated voluntary or skeletal muscle, striated involuntary
or cardiac muscle, and the smooth or involuntary muscle. Muscle also may contain
fat and connective tissue.
Skeletal muscle helps the animal to adjust to its external environment. It makes
up to 35 to 65 percent of all muscle in an animal. The bers can range from 0.00196
to 0.00393 inches to 50 to 100 micrometers in diameter and can be extremely long.
The bers constitute 75 to 92 percent of the muscle, while the rest is nerve bers,
blood vessels, and connective tissues. Cardiac muscle is the heart. The bers have
a diameter of 0.00059 inches/15 micrometers. Smooth muscle helps maintain the
bodys internal environment. It is found in the arteries and in the lymph, digestive,
and reproductive systems. Smooth muscle has long spindle-shaped bers, 0.000236
inches/6 micrometers in diameter.
There can also be fat, called intramuscular fat, deposited within the muscle. If it
is between muscles, it is then known as intermuscular fat. Connective tissue is what
holds the bers together in the muscle. The epimysium is the sheath surrounding
the entire muscle. The perimysium is the layer beneath that, dividing the bers into
small groups. The endomysium is the layer under the perimysium that surrounds each
muscle ber. Each layer is thinner than the one before.
Muscles engaged in lighter activities have a ner texture; heavily worked muscles
will have a coarse texture. The ner textured meats will be more tender and moist.
These nonmotion muscles are located more toward the center of the body. Motion
muscles are the legs and arms in humans.
Fish muscles are made up of myotomes and myocammata. The anatomy of sh
muscle is simple. Basically, there are two bundles of muscles on each side of the vertebral column, and each of these bundles is further separated into upper mass above
the horizontal axis. A septum, ventral mass below this septum, and the muscle cells
run in a longitudinal direction, separated perpendicularly by sheets of connective tissue (myocommato). The muscle segments lying in between the sheets of connective
tissue are called myotomes. The longest muscle cells are found in the twelfth myotome
counting from the head. The length of the cells as well as the thickness of the myocommato will increase with age.
47
MARKET FORMS
OF MEAT
BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN
After slaughtering,
inspection, and grading,
the animal carcass is cut
into manageable pieces.
Sides are prepared by
making a cut down the
length of a backbone.
Each side is cut into
two pieces to make
quarters, dividing the
sides between specic
vertebrae. Saddles are
made by cutting the
animal across the belly,
again at a specied
point. The exact
standards for individual
animal types govern
where the carcass is to
be divided.
The next step is
to cut the animal into
what are referred to as
primal cuts. There are
uniform standards for
beef, veal, pork, and
lamb primals. These
large cuts are then
further broken down into
subprimals. Subprimals
are generally trimmed
and packed as food
service, value added, or
HRI (hotel, restaurant,
and institution) cuts.
There may be even more
fabrication or butchering
done to prepare steaks,
chops, roasts, or ground
meat. These cuts are
referred to as portion
control cuts.
48
Short Sirloin
Loin
Tenderloin Round
Chuck
Rib
Bottom
Sirloin
Plate
Brisket
Flank
Shank
Shank
VEAL CARCASS BREAKDOWN

Foresaddle
Chuck
Rack
Breast
Foreshank
Hindsaddle
Loin
Leg
PORK CARCASS BREAKDOWN

Back Fat
Clear Plate
Loin
Butt
(Boston Butt)
Jowl
Shoulder,
Picnic
Spare Ribs
Leg
Ham
Belly
Hock
Hock
Foot
Foot
LAMB CARCASS BREAKDOWN

Foresaddle
Hindsaddle
Neck
Chuck
Rack
Loin
Leg
Breast
Foreshank
49
sh and seafood
The difference between meat and sh muscle tissue is that in sh there is no tough
connective tissue between the muscles and bones.
As discussed earlier, sh muscles are quite different from those in mammals. Fish
oat in water and so dont need muscle to support their weight. Their muscle bers,
which are very short, are called myotomes and are held together by connective tissue
called myocammata, which is much more delicate than collagen and breaks down
much more easily when cooked. The only muscles that most sh use extensively are
around the tail and ns (areas that arent eaten as often by humans), which are used
for constant cruising around in the water. Once caught, (dead) sh are stored in an ice
room with standing temperature of 30 to 38F/1 to 3C.
Fish muscles come in three different types: red, pink, and white. Most sh have a
mixture of two or all three types of muscle, but keep the types in discrete groupings;
however, in the salmonid shes, the red and white muscle types are mixed to form a
mosaic type of muscle. The colors these muscles show are related to the amount of
hemoglobin present in the muscles, with red muscle having plenty of hemoglobin
present and white very little, if any. When looking at sh muscles, be aware that some
sh, particularly salmonids, that feed on crustaceans develop a pink color to their
muscles as a result of a carotenoid pigment they acquire from their food, in the same
way that amingos get their pink color from the crustaceans they eat.
Red muscle, also known as slow muscle, is red because it has a high number of
capillaries present in it and thus has a high hemoglobin content. Being well supplied
with oxygen, red muscle is used for steady, constant-effort swimming and is found in
active sh, particularly those that live in the open waters of seas and oceans; nevertheless, red muscle seldom makes up even as much as 20 percent of a shs total muscle
mass. White muscle, or fast muscle, has thicker bers than red muscle and possesses
signicantly fewer capillaries, and so it has a much reduced blood ow, and therefore,
a reduced oxygen availability. Most white muscle activity is anaerobic (glycogen is converted to lactate). White muscle bers can produce tensions that are up to 2.7 times
greater than those of red muscle, but they are more energetically wasteful, and therefore, the cost to the animal is higher. Finally, white muscles can only work for short periods of time: a couple of minutes maximum is not unusual before they exhaust their
supply of glycogen and need to rest. All this means white muscles are convenient for
short quick bursts of movement, in which capacity they outcompete red muscle easily,
but they are no good for prolonged swimming. Pink muscle is intermediate between
the two and is good for continued swimming efforts lasting a few tens of minutes at a
relatively high speed. Of course, like all animals, sh use all their muscles in concert
as they go about their daily lives.
People who practice a regular diet of sh generally avoid suffering from such
ailments as heart disease, prostate cancer, high blood pressure, arthritis, bronchial
asthma, psoriasis, as well as many other chronic and acute ailments due to the unique
nutrients found in seafood. This observation of seafoods impact on human health
50
was rst identied in a paper published in 1970 that observed how the Greenland
Eskimo traditional way of life resulted in virtually no heart disease. The Greenland
Eskimos were observed to consume large amounts of fat, protein, and cholesterol, but
did not contract atherosclerosis. This condition was at that time the leading cause of
death for many European-Americans consuming a similar fatty diet. However, upon
further observation, it was discovered that the Eskimos fatty diet consisted primarily
of sea animals and sh.
In addition to iodine and calcium, sh and shellsh are excellent sources of protein, B vitamins, and various other nutrients. The fat contained in sh and seafood
that we consume is unsaturated omega-3 fatty acids, a polyunsaturated fat that cannot be manufactured by the human body and can only be obtained through dietary
means. Saturated fat resulting from the consumption of meat can be harmful to the
body if consumed regularly, resulting in heart disease or other chronic illnesses.
DIRECT AND INDIRECT BENEFITS OF THE CONSUMPTION OF
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS
Aids in development and function of the brain and retina
Ensures the health of the central nervous system in infancy and through life
Helps limit inammatory response
Lowers the incidence of heart disease and cancer
Lowers LDL (bad) cholesterol
It is important to understand that omega-3 fatty acids can only be obtained

by the consumption of sh that have themselves consumed ocean plants called
phytoplankton. Fish that eat phytoplankton in turn might be consumed by other sh,
thus providing larger sh with this fatty acid. It should be noted that freshwater sh do
not consume phytoplankton, so they have negligible amounts of omega-3 fatty acids.
Farmed saltwater sh also have negligible amounts of omega-3 fatty acids due to the
limited amount of phytoplankton in their measured diets.
seafood safety concerns

As much as sh and shellsh contribute to the consumption of important vitamins
and minerals, they are also capable of introducing very infectious toxin-producing
microbes that can result in severe sickness and even death.
As a general rule, infectious bacteria and parasites can be mitigated by cooking
seafood to 140F/60C. The highest potential risk of infection from bacteria or parasites is in seafood that is served raw or uncooked. This is particularly true for some bivalves and mollusks that are lter feeders, trapping viruses as they lter water for food.
When we, in turn, eat the raw shellsh, the virus is attached to their digestive track.
fin fish structure
Physically, the structure of most, if not all, n sh is similar.
51
market forms of sh
Fish can be purchased fresh in one of the market forms described below, as well as in
frozen, smoked, pickled, or salted forms.
whole sh This is the sh as it was caught, completely intact.

SEAFOOD
SAFETY IN THE
CHARCUTERIE
KITCHEN
When preparing sh
and seafood products
in the charcuterie
kitchen, it is of the
utmost importance to
Understand the
dish that you are
preparing, the
ingredients, and how
the other ingredients
will interact with the
seafood product
Understand where
the product came
from and check
for freshness and
product condition
Understand the
product and how to
handle and maintain
it before and during
preparation
Understand all of
the potential health
concerns regarding
the product and
proper preparation
techniques to limit
the health concerns
erawn sh The viscera (guts) are removed, but head, ns, and scales are still intact.
h&g (headed and gutted or head-off drawn) The viscera and head are removed, but
scales and ns are still intact.
dressed sh The viscera, gills, scales, and ns are removed. The head may or may
not be removed. Also known as pan-dressed, these sh are usually appropriate for a
single serving.
steak This is a portion-sized, cross-section cut from a dressed sh. Portion cuts from
the llets of large sh, such as tuna and swordsh, are also commonly called steaks.
llet This is a boneless piece of sh, removed from either side of the backbone. The
skin may or may not be removed before cooking. Purveyors often sell llets pin-bone
in, so it is important to specify pin-bone out when ordering.
tranche A portion-sized slice of a llet is cut at a 45-degree angle to expose a greater
surface area. A tranche is generally cut from a large lletfor example, from salmon
or halibut.
pav This is a portion-sized, square cut from a llet. A pav is generally cut from a
large lletfor example, salmon, halibut, mahi mahi, or tuna.
freshness checks for nsh

To ensure that sh are of the best quality, the chef should carefully inspect the sh,
checking for as many of the following signs of freshness and quality as possible:
Fish should be received at a temperature of 40F/4C or less.
The sh should have a good overall appearance (clear slime, no cuts or bruising,
pliable ns, etc.).
The scales should tightly adhere to the sh.
The esh should respond to light pressure and not feel soft.
The eyes should be clear, bright, and bulging.
The gills should be bright pink to maroon in color, and if mucous is present, it
should be clear.
There should be no belly burnevidence that the viscera were left in the sh
too long.
The sh should have a clean, sweet, sea-like smell.
52
storage
Under correct storage conditions, sh and shellsh can be held for several days without losing any appreciable quality. Ideally, however, the chef should purchase only the
amount of sh needed for a day or two and should store it properly, as described below.
1.
Always keep sh at a proper storage temperature and handle it as little as

possible: Fin sh: 28 to 32F/2 to 0C; live mollusk: 35 to 40F/2 to 4C;
live crustacean: 39 to 45F/4 to 7C; caviar: 28 to 32F/2 to 0C; smoked
sh: 32F/0C.
2.
Check the sh carefully for freshness and quality. The sh may be rinsed at this
point; scaling and fabricating should be delayed until close to service time.
3.
Place the sh on a bed of shaved or aked ice in a perforated container (such as

a hotel pan with a draining pan), preferably stainless steel. The sh should be
belly down, and the belly cavity should be lled with shaved ice as well.
4.
Cover with additional ice; the sh may be layered, if necessary, with shaved
or aked ice. Cubed ice can bruise the shs esh. It also will not conform as
closely to the sh. Shaved or aked ice makes a tighter seal around the entire
sh. This prevents undue contact with the air, slowing loss of quality and
helping to extend safe storage life.
5.
Set the perforated container in a second container. In this way, as the ice melts,
the water will drain away. If the sh is allowed to sit in a pool of water, avor
and texture loss will occur. The longer it sits, the greater the loss of quality.
6.
Re-ice the sh daily. Even when properly iced, the sh will gradually lose some
quality. To slow this loss, skim the top layer of ice from the storage container and
replace it with fresh ice. Fish purchased as llets should be stored in stainless- steel
containers set on ice. They should not be in direct contact with the ice, however,
because as the ice melts, much of the avor and texture of the sh will be lost.
common sh types
The skeletal structure of sh is a useful means of separating n sh into smaller
groupings. The three basic types of n sh are round, at, and nonbony. Roundsh
have a middle backbone with one llet on either side and one eye on each side of the
head. Flatsh have a backbone that runs through the center of the sh, two upper
and two lower llets, and both eyes on the same side of the head. Nonbony sh have
cartilage rather than bones.
Fish may also be categorized by their activity level: low, medium, or high. The
more a sh swims, the darker its esh will be. Darker-eshed sh have a higher oil
content and, therefore, a stronger avor. When choosing the best cooking technique
for a given sh, consider the oil content of the esh. Low- and high-activity sh have
limited cooking methods, while medium-activity sh are quite versatile.
53
sanitation
chapter four
Good care at all stages of preparation determines both
the quality and the safety of the product later on.
charcuterie production and

sanitation
Because you are making a product that is typically handled multiple times and may
not necessarily be eaten the day it is made, it is extremely important to follow proper
sanitation procedures. Prior to slaughter, the edible meat of a healthy animal is sterile,
protected from contamination by skin on the outside. Once the animal is slaughtered
and cut up, contamination starts through the skinning and dressing operations.
Sausage production relies on fermentation, certain chemicals, and the growth
of benecial microorganisms for both avor and preservation. Unfortunately, not all
microorganisms are benecial to sausage; some can cause sickness and even death to
consumers. There are many opportunities for harmful organisms to grow, rst simply
because the meat must be out of refrigeration while being ground and stuffed, putting it in the temperature danger zone (41 to 140F/5 to 60C); and also due to the
anaerobic (lacking in oxygen) environment of a smokehouse and long-term aging. For
this reason, it is of the utmost importance to handle every step and ingredient with
care while making sausages.
Microorganisms include bacteria, viruses, some parasites, and fungi (yeasts and
molds); they are invisible to the naked human eye, yet they are living and can multiply
at very fast rates given the right conditions. Many microorganisms can be found all
around us. They live on our skin and in our bodies, on dirty countertops and utensils,
and in food. While we rely on certain types of bacteria in order to function, such as
those that help us digest food, and mold-based drugs that ght infections (such as an-
SANITATION PROCEDURES FOR SAUSAGE PRODUCTION
PRACTICE THE 3 Cs: KEEP IT COLDKEEP IT CLEANKEEP IT COVERED
Chill all metal equipment that will come in contact with the meat, in an ice-water
bath in a clean sink or hotel pan, or under refrigeration.
Keep all perishable products and meat at proper chilled temperature, below
41F/5C.
Wash hands before beginning any preparation; use gloves if product will not be
cooked later.
Clean and sanitize all surfaces that will be in contact with the meat: tabletop,
grinder parts, pans, cutting boards, etc.
Keep all items covered after and during processing; this will help eliminate
Cross contamination
Contamination from pathogens
Physical contamination from foreign matter, such as hair
56
SANITATION
tibiotics), other types can be harmful. The key to sausage production is encouraging
the benecial organisms while deterring the harmful ones.
The main techniques of charcuterie include poaching, baking, salting or drycuring, brining, air-drying, and smoking, either with or without heat. There are several
food safety issues that are introduced through room-temperature treatments involved
in air-drying and cold smoking. In order to help avoid these issues, curing salts are
often used to prevent the growth of pathogens (disease-causing bacteria), particularly
Clostridium botulinum, the bacterium that causes botulism (see page 61).
Sausage products require a wide array of control measures in their processing.
Cured meats and most sausage products utilize additives such as salt, nitrates, nitrites,
and sugars in processing procedures such as cooking and smoking. Salt may limit
bacterial ora to salt-tolerant species. Smoking and/or cooking will destroy many
vegetative cells (active, metabolizing cells). Applying heat is one of the simplest ways
to kill microbes, at least for controlling vegetative cells and viruses. High temperatures
do their damage by destroying organic molecules such as proteins, carbohydrates,
lipids, and nucleic acids. These molecules have important roles for proper functioning of cells and viruses. Although salting, smoking, and/or cooking can aid in the
prevention of bacterial growth, the processing environment, product handling, and
product packaging still have the opportunity to introduce microorganisms, including
pathogens, into the packaged product. There is a particular concern when these types
of pathogens are present since they can grow in cooked products without effort.
In addition to biological contamination (by pathogenic bacteria, parasites,
viruses, and mold), charcuterie may also be contaminated by excess chemicals and
unwanted physical items. We will discuss those later in this chapter.
water activity and microorganisms

Water activity (signied as aw) is dened as the amount of water available for
microbial growth. Water activity is based on a scale of aw 0.00 to aw 1.00, with pure
water having a water activity of 1.00. Typically, products that contain a lower moisture percentage have lower water activities. Foods with lower water activities are quite
shelf-stable in that they contain very little water available for microorganisms to use
for growth. When microorganisms grow, they make the food impure, causing spoilage
as well as health dangers for the consumer.
Protein, such as meat, that is high in water content (70 to 80 percent) is more
open to the growth of unwanted microorganisms, so it is very important to handle
and store meat properly in order to prevent these microorganisms from growing.
Even though there can be an association between the total moisture content of a
food and its water activity, the correlation does not occur at all times. Food products
can exist with high moisture content and still have very little water activity. Many natural ingredients can be added to a product to bind the water or absorb the moisture
so that it is unavailable for microorganisms to grow in. Several common ingredients
that can be used to bind water are sugar, salt (which has six times the capacity of sugar
to bind water), pectin, and glycerol.
57
Meat products where water activity is important as a means to increase shelf

stability include cured meats such as ham, fermented meats such as sausage and pepperoni, and dried meats such as jerky. Most meat products with lower water activity
levels use salt to bind water, as well as drying techniques to lower the total moisture
content of the product, which in turn lowers the water activity.
biological hazards in sausage

production
BACTERIA CAN
SURVIVE IN MEAT
UNDER THE RIGHT
CONDITIONS
Exposure to air
(incorrectly wrapped)
Exposure to incorrect
temperatures (danger
zone)
Prolonged holding
time in the fresh state
58
Sausage makers must ensure that their products are not contaminated by pathogens.
Manufacturers cook products to enhance the avor and color, produce the desired
nal product, and inhibit the bacteria responsible for spoilage. In order to produce
a safe product, products should be cooked to destroy pathogenic bacteria, parasites,
viruses, and fungi. Sausages can be cooked in a variety of ways: through immersion
in a heated water bath, smoking, on the stovetop, or in the oven. The cooking process must be carefully controlled to ensure that the product reaches an exact desired
temperature for a denite period of time. Thermocouples are used to monitor the
temperature during the cooking progression.
The cooling process must also be carefully monitored and controlled; the cooked
product must be lowered from 140 to 70F/60 to 21C within a two-hour period,
and then from 70 to 41F/21 to 5C or less within a four-hour period. For food
safety requirements concerning the growth of Clostridium perfringens (see page 60), uncured products can be cooled from 130 to 80F/54 to 27C within 1 hours and
80 to 40F/54 to 4C within a ve-hour period.
Dry sausages are almost always smoked and cooked before they are left to dry.
However, some dry sausages, such as pepperoni, are rarely smoked and can be consumed either cooked or uncooked. Today, some establishments choose to treat dry
sausages with heat as a critical step designed to reduce E. coli (see page 60). The drying
process for sausages is a critical step in ensuring product safety; it requires that these
products undergo a carefully controlled and monitored air-drying process that cures
the manufactured goods by removing moisture from the product.
A moist heat process can be used as well for some products. This process utilizes a
sealed oven or steam injection to raise the heat and relative humidity to meet a specic
temperature and time requirements sufcient to eliminate pathogens.
Manufacturers are required to control the ratio of moisture to protein in the nal
product. The Moisture/Protein Ratio (MPR) is controlled by stabilizing the amount
of added water based on the overall product formulation and, above all, by the drying
procedure. In some products, the MPR can affect the nal microbiological stability of
the product; in other products, the MPR is important to ensure elements of the overall product quality, such as the texture. The prescribed treatments used have proved to
be insufciently lethal for some bacterial pathogens; as a result, most of the industry
has volunteered to execute a more rigorous treatment. To ensure that the fermenta-
SANITATION
tion and drying procedure is sufcient to reduce or eliminate any pathogens present
in the product, the procedures must be legalized to prove that they achieve a specic
reduction in organisms.
Products containing pork must be treated to destroy trichinae; sausages made
without pork have no such requirement.
microorganisms in meats
A number of product characteristics inuence the growth of microorganisms. Each
of these characteristics must be controlled to create an environment that is hostile to
microbial growth. Microbial growth also results from defects in the product production process and/or during product handling. Microorganisms can survive the heating
process due to insufcient heating time and temperatures. Contamination can occur
after processing, and during handling and packaging. Spoilage can occur during the
retail sale phase, if the product is stored for a long period of time or at temperatures
in excess of 41F/5C.
harmful bacteria in sausages
salmonella enteritidis
This bacterium, usually referred to simply as salmonella, is a leading cause of foodborne illness in the United States. About 1,800 different types of salmonella are known
to exist, and each is considered to be pathogenic to humans. Warm-blooded animals
serve as hosts to these microorganisms. They are found in the intestinal tract of poultry and large meat animals without causing any ill effects in the animal. Salmonella
results from animals ingesting feces.
Salt content and acidity of prepared meat products help keep the growth rate
of salmonella down in foods. Salmonella organisms can be eliminated from cooked
sausages in the same way that E. coli is eliminated: by proper cooking processes. In
dry sausages, the manufacturer must follow a combination of processes to control
the pathogen; use of a fermentation starter culture, expended product temperatures
during fermentation, and careful control of the product pH, cure, and salt content
all need to be followed and monitored by the manufacturer. Product handling procedures are designed and monitored to guarantee and ensure that cross contamination
of the nished products with raw materials does not occur.
PRECAUTIONS FOR PREVENTING SALMONELLOSIS INFECTION
Wash and sanitize surfaces for food production.

Keep fresh meats and meat products out of the danger zone; store properly
wrapped.
Prevent cross contamination by washing and sanitizing all cutting boards and
food contact surfaces between handling of different foods.
Cook products to 165F/74C.
59
E.COLIPATHOGEN AND BACTERIA
Escherichia coli 0157:H7 is a very serious pathogen found in the intestinal tract of
cattle, which can be transferred through raw ground beef. To prevent the proliferation
of E. coli in other foods and to destroy it at its source, we must avoid cross
contamination and cook all ground beef products thoroughly.
Escherichia coli (E. coli) are members of a large group of bacterial germs that
inhabit the intestinal tracts of humans and other warm-blooded animals (mammals,
birds). Newborns have a sterile alimentary tract that becomes colonized with E. coli
within two days of birth.
It is important to remember that most kinds of E. coli bacteria do not cause
disease in humans.
E. COLI O157:H7
Shiga toxin is one of the most potent toxins known to man. Although E. coli O157:H7
is responsible for the majority of human illnesses attributed to E. coli, there are
additional Stx-producing E. coli that can cause severe illness.
Stx-producing E. coli organisms have several characteristics that make them so
dangerous. They can survive several weeks on surfaces such as countertops and up to
a year in some materials like compost. They have a very low infectious dose, meaning
that only a relatively small number of bacteria are needed to cause infection.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) estimates that every
year at least two thousand Americans are hospitalized and about sixty die as a direct
result of E. coli.
staphylococcus aureus
This is the most common cause of food-borne illness. Most often known as staph, this
bacterium produces a poison/toxin that causes food-borne illness. Staphylococcus aureus
bacteria can be found in processed meat products, such as ham and sausage, poultry,
eggs, milk, and dairy products. Foods that require a lot of handling, preparation work,
and reheating are also very susceptible to Staphylococcus aureus contamination.
Although food handlers are the main source of staphylococcal food poisoning,
equipment and surfaces are also common media for the staph bacteria. The toxin
produced by staph bacteria is very heat stable; it cannot be destroyed easily by heat at
normal cooking temperatures. The bacteria themselves may be killed, but the toxin
remains. It is important to ensure careful handling of food that is prepared ahead of
time. Quick cooling and refrigeration, or holding at or above 140F/60C, can help
guarantee that the toxin does not have a chance to form. Foods that require signicant
handling during preparation and that are kept at slightly elevated temperatures after
preparation are frequently involved in staphylococcal food poisoning.
clostridium perfringens
Clostridium perfringens are spore-forming bacteria found in soil, feces, and the intestines
of healthy people and animals; they are also often found in raw meat and poultry.
Spores can survive normal cooking temperatures. After cooking, small numbers of
60
SANITATION
the organism may still be present. The spores grow when cooked food is kept in the
temperature danger zone, between 40 and 140F/4 and 60C. They only grow
when exposed to little or no oxygen (anaerobic environment).
C. perfringens food poisoning is most common with meat products and gravies.
The bacteria can be found in uncooked meat and poultry; they can also be found
in many other foods, particularly in high-protein or high-starch foods. They can be
transferred to food from human feces if proper hand-washing procedures are not
practiced. Cooling foods slowly can also allow C. perfringens spores to grow.
PRECAUTIONS FOR PREVENTING CLOSTRIDIUM PERFRINGENS ENTERITIS
The best way to reduce the bacteria is to store foods properly.

Do not leave food out on the table or countertop, or warming in the oven, for
more than two hours.
All leftovers should be frozen or discarded after four days.
Serve hot foods immediately or keep them above 140F/60C.
Leftovers should be put into small, shallow containers so they will cool rapidly
and, if they are reheated, they should be heated to 165F/74C.
clostridium botulinum
Clostridium botulinum is widespread in the environment, occurring in soil, water, and
animals. As a result, various foods may naturally contain these bacteria, which form
cells known as spores that can survive many cooking processes due to their high heat
resistance. Even though C. botulinum is common, foods only become dangerous when
C. botulinum grows and produces its toxin in the food. These bacteria are anaerobic,
meaning they only grow where there is little or no oxygen. They are also sensitive to
acid and cold, and usually cannot grow and produce toxin in acidic foods or in the
refrigerator. Foods that have been associated with outbreaks of botulism include improperly canned foods (both homemade and commercially canned), avored oils containing garlic and herbs, smoked and salted sh, and potatoes that have been baked
in aluminum foil and then kept (still wrapped in foil) at room temperature for several
hours. All of these are low-acid foods that may be stored in a room-temperature
environment in the absence of oxygen. Another environment where C. botulinum can
grow is on the surface of fresh vegetables wrapped tightly in plastic, which keeps out
oxygen. Botulism can be prevented by practicing safe food handling techniques and
looking for warning signs in food packaging. Visible indicators, such as bulging or
dented cans, clear liquids that have turned milky, and cracked jars, can suggest that
C. botulinum could be present. Today botulism is prevented in sausage and other cured
meats by the use of nitrites and nitrates in cures.
listeria monocytogenes
Listeria infection, also known as listeriosis, is caused by the bacterium Listeria monocytogenes. Listeriosis, a serious infection caused by eating food contaminated with the
bacterium, has recently been recognized as an important public health problem in the
61
AREAS WHERE
BOTULISM IS
A CONCERN
IN SAUSAGE
PRODUCTION
COLD-SMOKING:
Items that are cold
smoked for any period
of time and will not be
cooked immediately;
should contain nitrites
VACUUM PACKING:
Cryovac-packaged
foods that would be
held for any period of
time and not cooked or
heated properly before
consuming
United States. Infection is rare, but when it does occur it most frequently affects pregnant women in their last trimester, newborns, and children and adults whose immunity
is not yet fully developed or destabilized by disease such as cancer or AIDS. People who
have had various types of transplants are also more at risk for listeriosis. Listeria bacteria can be transmitted through soil and water. A person can ingest listeria by eating
foods such as deli meats and cold cuts, soft-ripened cheese, milk, undercooked chicken,
uncooked hot dogs, shellsh, and coleslaw made from contaminated cabbage. Many
cases of infection, however, have no identied source. Listeria infections may create
symptoms such as fever, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, difculty breathing, and loss of
appetite. Pregnant women who develop listeriosis may experience only mild u-like
symptoms, although they are at risk for premature delivery, miscarriage, and stillbirth.
People who have weakened immune systems are at particular risk for developing other
more serious illnesses from listeriosis, including pneumonia, meningitis, encephalitis,
and sepsis. Cases of listeriosis are relatively rare. In 2004, only 120 cases were reported
in the United States. In all cases, the earlier listeriosis is detected and treated, the better.
If you are pregnant or in one of the other high-risk groups, avoiding certain foods and
beverages can help reduce your risk of contracting this infection. Reheat precooked,
prepackaged foods, such as deli meats or hot dogs, to steaming-hot temperatures.
parasites in sausages
trichinella spiralis
Trichinosis, a disease that can be deadly at times, is caused by the consumption of the
trichina parasite, Trichinella spiralis. Trichinosis is a major concern for sausage producers. Trichinae larvae commonly infest pork muscle, so most cases occur in people
who have consumed improperly treated or prepared pork products. Infections from
consumption of sausage products typically occur when a fresh sausage product has
not been sufciently cooked by the consumer, or the sausage product has not been
properly treated by the producer. Since the microscopic size of the trichina larva
(0.00393-inch/0.1 mm) makes it difcult to identify in a typical packinghouse operation, it is required that all pork be treated to destroy the parasite through heating,
refrigeration, or curing. Heating is the most common treatment method in the
sausage-processing industry. A temperature of 140F/60C is considered fatal to
all trichinae organisms. This temperature is typically exceeded during the cooking
process; however, products that are partially cooked at lower temperatures, such as
smoked pork sausage, require additional treatment. These products typically undergo
a formulation and curing process designed to eliminate trichinae. The process includes controlling the size of the chopped meat in the product, ensuring a specic salt
content, and specifying the length of time in a drying room at a specic temperature.
Another form of treatment to eliminate trichina is freezing.
PRECAUTIONS FOR PREVENTING TRICHINA CONTAMINATION
62
Cook fresh pork properly. Trichinae are killed by exposing them to a

temperature of at least 138F/59C for 10 seconds The U.S. Code of Federal
Regulations for processed pork products reects experimental data and
SANITATION
requires pork to be cooked for 2 hours at 126F/52.2C, for 15 minutes at

132F/55.6C, and for 1 minute at 140F/60C.
Irradiation treatment of fresh pork with 30 krad (0.3kGy) of cesium-137 has

been proven to render trichinae completely non-infective. Irradiation with
cobalt-60 or high-energy x-rays at this same level should also be effective for
inactivating trichinae.
If you are producing a fermented dry sausage or other pork item that will not
be subject to the above temperatures, there are two options to follow:
The sausage must contain 3.5 percent or more salt and be held in a drying
chamber 14 days for a 1-in-/2.5-cm-diameter product and up to 50 days
for a 6-in-/15-cm-diameter product.
If the product is only about in/2 cm thick or less, make the product
using pork that has been certied free of trichinae by freezing according to
the following table. The U.S. Department of Agricultures Code of Federal
Regulations requires that pork intended for use in processed products be
frozen; it states pork meat, but jowl fat has some meat in it.
Store pork in containers with no more than a 6-in/15-cm depth to the pork
product.
certifying pork via freezing

MINIMUM TEMPERATURE
MINIMUM FREEZING AND HOLDING TIME
5F/15C
20 days
10F/23C
12 days
20F/34C
6 days
harmful molds in sausages

Visible molds are actually a colony made up of multiple types of cells that require
oxygen for growth. Under suitable conditions of moisture, air, and temperature,
molds will grow on almost any food. Some molds cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems, and a few molds, under the right conditions, produce mycotoxins that
are poisonous substances that can make people sick. Mold growth can even occur
in refrigerators, because molds are much more tolerant to cold than to heat. Molds
can grow at reduced water activities and can be a problem in improperly processed
dry and semidry fermented products. Mold is a commonly encountered problem in
the production of dry sausages. The common technique for inhibiting the growth of
mold is to dip the sausage in a mold-inhibitor solution, typically 2.5 percent solution
of potassium sorbate or a 3.5 percent solution of propylparaben.
63
pathogens in sh products
The following microbes are among the most important for sh and shellsh.
64
MICROBE
SOURCE
SYMPTOMS
VIBRIO CHOLERAE (01

AND NON-01)
Naturally occurring in
estuaries, bays, and
brackish water
01: Watery diarrhea,

vomiting, abdominal cramps;
non-01: diarrhea, abdominal
cramps, fever
VIBRIO PARAHAEMOLYTICUS
Naturally occurring in
estuaries and other coastal
areas throughout the world
Diarrhea, abdominal cramps,

nausea, vomiting, headache
VIBRIO VULNIFICUS
Naturally occurring marine

bacterium
Skin lesions, septic shock,

fever, chills, nausea
CLOSTRIDIUM BOTULINUM
Heat-resistant spores found

throughout the environment
Diarrhea; vomiting;
abdominal pain; nausea;
weakness; double, blurred
vision; dilated, xed pupils;
respiratory paralysis
NORWALK VIRUS
Contaminated coastal water
Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea,

abdominal cramps, fever
HEPATITIS A VIRUS
Contaminated coastal
waters
Weakness, fever, abdominal

pain, jaundice
SANITATION
TRANSMISSION
CONTROL
Cross contamination from

raw to cooked seafood;
consumption of raw
seafood
Proper cooking of seafood, preventing cross contamination

of cooked seafood

consumption of raw
seafood
Proper cooking of seafood; preventing cross contamination

of cooked seafood

consumption of raw
seafood

of cooked seafood
Semipreserved seafood
(lightly preserved sh
products), improperly
canned foods
Proper canning; aw <0.93, pH <4.7

This group includes sh products with low salt content
(Water Phase Salt (WPS) <6 percent) and low acid content
(pH >5.0). Preservatives (sorbate, benzoate, NO2, smoke)
may or may not be added. The products may be prepared
from raw or cooked raw material, but are normally consumed
without any prior heating. Product examples are salted,
marinated, cold-smoked, or gravad sh. These products have
a limited shelf life and are typically stored at temperature
41F/5C. The presence in these products of low numbers
of pathogenic bacteria normally found in the aquatic and the
general environment (Clostridiums botulinum, pathogenic
Vibrio sp., Listeria monocytogenes) is a potential hazard. Due
to their low numbers, the mere presence is not a signicant
hazard. However, if these organisms are allowed to grow to
high numbers, they are very likely to cause a serious disease,
and are therefore representing a signicant hazard. It should
be remembered that growth and toxin production can take
place in the raw material as well as in the nal product.

consumption of raw
seafood

of cooked seafood

consumption of raw
seafood

of cooked seafood.
65
chemical hazards in sausage

production
nitrites and nitrates
Curing agents such as nitrites and nitrates have traditionally been used in sausage formulations. Nitrites inhibit the growth of bacteria, provide antioxidant properties, and
improve the taste and color of the sausage. Although nitrates and nitrites may be helpful in preventing bacterial growth, consuming large amounts is very harmful. Since
nitrites and nitrates can be toxic to humans, the use of these ingredients in sausage formulations is carefully controlled. They are sometimes referred to as restricted ingredients. Supplies of sodium nitrite, potassium nitrite, and mixtures containing them must
be kept securely under the care of a responsible employee of the establishment. The
specic nitrite content of such supplies must be known and clearly marked accordingly.
The acceptable maximum level of these additives is spelled out in the USDA Food
Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) regulations, as indicated in the following table.
SUBSTANCE
AMOUNT
Sodium or potassium nitrate
2 oz to 100 lb/78 g to 45.36 kg

chopped meat
Sodium or potassium nitrite
oz to 100 lb/7 g to 45.36 kg

chopped meat
The amount of nitrite added to the product needs to be less than 200 parts per million based on the
total amount of meat and meat by-products. Nitrites dissipate quickly in the nished product, and
the parts per million in the nished product does not necessarily reect the amount that was used in
formulation. This makes sampling the nished product for nitrite an impractical control measure.
other chemical contaminants
66
To prevent growth of bacteria during storage, natural casings should be salted

or kept in brine at 40F/4C or lower (but not frozen) in covered containers.
To avoid mold growth after opening, collagen and brous casings should not be
kept in warm humid areas but rather in sealed bags or containers in a dry cooler.
Meat ingredients should be stored covered at 40F/4C or lower and if shop
generated materials are used, ensure they are labeled with the production date.
Spices and seasonings should be stored covered and be protected from humidity,
pests, and cleaning chemicals. Whenever possible place smaller quantities in
spice and seasoning bins to avoid opened product from remaining unused for
long periods where bacteria or other contaminants may increase.
Inspect natural casings to ensure they are relatively free of patches of spongy
tissue on their lining, which can result in shortened shelf life. If ice is used in
sausage production, ensure that the ice box is cleaned regularly and that only
clean scoops, never hands, are used to remove it. Inspect meat for off odor, bone
SANITATION
chips, cartilage, glands, foreign materials, or any other condition that would
make it unsatisfactory for use. Select all meat ingredients in accordance with a
rst inrst out system, and whenever possible, avoid the use of rework. Use of
whole muscle cuts for grinding will enhance shelf life.
Before the start of production, all equipment should be inspected to ensure that
it is free of visible meat residues or pooled water and that all parts and fasteners
are accounted for and properly secured. A written procedure for disassembly
and sanitation of the grinder, mixer, stuffer, and all other equipment should
be followed each production day, or more often if needed. If sausage is being
produced from a different species than a previous batch, then a cleanup should
be performed. When equipment is cleaned, it should also be inspected for
rust, excessive wear, or any other condition that could produce contamination
or make cleaning difcult. Individuals involved with sausage production must
ensure that their hands and garments are clean.
Sausage production areas should be kept at no more than 50F/10C and
whenever possible 39.2F/4C or colder. During production, the meat block
should be sufciently cold to ensure that the nished product leaving the stuffer
is 39.2F/4C or less. When moisture addition is required, use ice or cold
potable liquids dispensed using cleaned and sanitized containers. Following
stufng, nished product should be packaged using clean trays and placed in a
refrigerated display case or cooler as quickly as possible.
If potential allergens are used in the production of sausage, ensure that they are
declared in applicable labeling or ingredient lists and that equipment is cleaned
before other products are made. Always follow sausage recipes and do not
substitute ingredients that would require labeling or ingredient list changes.
physical hazards in sausage

production
Set up a chart stating standard operating procedures and the standards for each stage
of the process.
A simple chart would include:
1.
Receiving and storing of raw

materials
2.
Receiving and storing of nonmeat

ingredients
3.
4.
Formulation
Grinding and mixing
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Cooking
Chilling and holding
Packaging
Storage
Distribution
67
The main types of physical hazards in food include:
GLASS: Common
sources found in food-processing facilities are light bulbs, glass

containers, and glass food containers.
METAL: Common sources of metal include metal from equipment, such as

splinters, blades, broken needles, fragments from worn utensils, and staples.
PLASTICS: Common
STONES: Field
sources of soft and hard plastics include material used for

packaging, gloves worn by food handlers, utensils used for cleaning equipment,
and tools used to remove processed food from equipment.
crops, such as peas and beans, are most likely to contain small
stones picked up during harvesting. Concrete structures and oors in foodprocessing facilities can also be a source of small stones.
WOOD: Common sources of wood come from wood structures and wooden
pallets used to store or transport ingredients or food products.
There are many ways food processors can prevent physical hazards in
food products, including:
68
Inspect raw materials and food ingredients for eld contaminants (for example,
stones in cereals) that were not found during the initial receiving process.
Follow good storage practices and evaluate potential risks in storage areas (for
example, sources of breakable glass such as light bulbs, staples from cartons,
etc.) and use protective acrylic bulbs or lamp covers.
Develop specications and controls for all ingredients and components,
including raw materials and packaging materials. Specications should contain
standards for evaluating acceptability of ingredients or packaging materials.
(For example, recycled cardboard used for packaging sometimes contains traces
of metals that can be detected by metal detectors. A limit for metal detection
should be established to avoid false positive detection of metal in food.)
Set up an effective detection and elimination system for physical hazards in
your facility (for example, metal detectors or magnets to detect metal fragments
in the production line and lters or screens to remove foreign objects at the
receiving point). Properly and regularly maintain the equipment in your facility
to avoid sources of physical hazards, such as foreign materials that can come
from worn-out equipment.
Periodic employee training on shipping, receiving, storing, handling, equipment
maintenance, and calibration will also help prevent physical hazards from being
introduced into food products.
SANITATION
microorganisms to be encouraged in
sausage production
We have been growing benecial bacteria during the curing process for centuries, and
although we knew nothing of bacteria, we had observed that cured meats developed
nicer color, tasted better, and lasted longer.
Without benecial bacteria, it would not be possible to make fermented sausage.
They are naturally occurring in the meat, but in many cases, they are added to meat
in the form of starter culture.
There are two classes of benecial (friendly) bacteria.
1.
2.
Lactic acidproducing bacteria, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus

Color- and avor-forming bacteria, Staphylococcus, Kocuria (previously known as
Micrococcus)
benecial bacteria in sausage production
lactic acid bacteria

Lactic acid bacteria are a group of related bacteria that produce lactic acid as a result
of carbohydrate fermentation. These microorganisms are generally used in the production of fermented food products, such as yogurt, cheeses, sauerkraut, and sausage.
Lactic acid bacteria cause rapid acidication of meat by metabolizing sugar.
They produce not only lactic acid but also acetic acid, ethanol, different aromas, bacteriocins, and other enzymes. By increasing the acidity of the meat, they inuence not
only safety and shelf life of the product but also its avor.
Lactic acid bacteria are used in the food industry for several reasons. Their growth
lowers both the carbohydrate content of the foods that they ferment and the pH due
to lactic acid production. It is this acidication process that is one of the most desirable side effects of their growth. The pH may drop to as low as 4.0, low enough to
inhibit the growth of most other bacteria including the most common human pathogens, thus allowing these foods extended shelf life.
Producers of dry sausages and semidry sausages must use controlled, bacterially induced fermentation in order maintain the meat and impart avor. Bacterial
fermentation is used to produce the lower pH (a range of 4.7 to 5.4) that results in the
tangy avor associated with this type of sausage. When the pH is lowered it causes the
proteins to give up water, resulting in a drying effect that creates an environment that
is unfavorable to spoilage organisms, which helps to maintain the product.
white mycelium
White mycelium is a heavy growth of molds on the surface of European-type sausages such as Italian salami, as well as country-cured hams. White mycelium helps in
the preservation of these food products by inhibiting the activities of pathogenic and
food-spoilage bacteria, and may also enhance avor development.
69
curing
& brining
chapter ve
The two primary reasons to cure or brine meats, poultry, and
seafood are preservation and avor.
FUNCTIONS OF THE
INGREDIENTS OF A
CURE OR BRINE
SALT: Used to draw out

the moisture
SUGAR: Balances
the saltiness, fuels
the benecial bacteria
helping the curing
process, and draws out
moisture
NITRITES: Prevent
botulism and develop
pink color along with
the avor
SEASONINGS: Used
as aromatics as well as
for avoring
Curing and briningand salting in generalare historically among the most popular methods of preserving meats, poultry, and sh. At one time hard-curing was the
only method used to preserve meat. The meat was placed (packed) in a container with
just salt. Over a period of a few days, the salt would draw moisture out of the meat,
producing a brine. The liquid was drained off. More salt was added, and the process
was repeated several times until the meat was hard and dry. The nal product would
keep indenitely but had to be soaked in fresh water several times to get rid of the salt
before it was edible.
They still are popular for preserving to an extent, but due to our better refrigeration and freezing, they are more often used to add avor and texture to meat.
Curing, a dry process, can take from hours to many weeks or months. Curing is
done before smoking most products (see Chapter 6). The quest to add avor when
curing has us using items like maple sugar and molasses along with many different
herbs, spices, and seasonings such as ve-spice powder, miso, garlic, basil, thyme, or
rosemary. All of these items add depth to the avor of the product, not just a salty
effect. We tend to create our own avor proles based on what we like.
Brining is a wet process, in which we basically take a cure and add water to it to
create a saline solution (sometimes also known as a pickle or curing solution). The
product needs to be immersed in brine; when you brine items. they usually will take a
shorter period of time to cure as opposed to dry-curing items. A portion of the brine
may also be injected into the product. For injection, 10 percent of the total weight
in brine solution should be used, and it should be injected into a few of the thickest
areas of the product at the same time. Introducing a portion of the brine by injection
will also reduce brining time by about one-half, as the injection process hastens the
absorption and therefore the rate of curing.
Seasoning meats is more complicated than just mixing salt and pepper with some
herbs and spices. Flavor is introduced through various means, such as marinades, injection solutions, seasoning rubs, and glazes that affect both taste and texture.
Flavors that are often lost during processing can be added by injecting and/or
tumbling meats with marinade solutions under cold conditions before cooking and/
or by applying seasonings topically either through a glaze or a rub to highlight the
appearance of the outer surface.
main ingredients and their function

in curing and brining
salt
For centuries, meat has been preserved with salt. At certain levels, salt prevents growth
of some types of bacteria that are responsible for meat spoilage. Salt prevents bacterial growth either because of its direct inhibitory effects or because of the drying
effects it has on meats (most bacteria require substantial amounts of moisture to live
and grow).
72
CURING & BRINING
Salt should be food grade, have no anti-caking agents added to it, and should
not be iodized. The size of the crystal of table salt is smaller than kosher salt, and it
is usually cubic in shape. Table salt contains additives to keep the small crystals from
caking and clumping.
Unrened salt, such as sea salt, eur de sel, or all natural salts, contain different
minerals giving each a unique avor. All four cationic electrolytes (sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium) are available in unrened salt along with other vital
minerals.
After raw salt is obtained, it is rened to purify it and improve its storage
and handling.
Table salt is a rened salt that can have as little as 60 percent or as much as
90 percent sodium chloride and usually will contain a substance that makes it free
owing, like an anti-caking agent.
Kosher salt, the type of salt called for in the recipes in this book, usually has no
additives, and it has big crystals with large surface areas. This size and shape allows it
to absorb more moisture than other forms of salt, and this makes kosher salt excellent
for curing meats. That is essentially where the name comes from. The salt itself is not
kosher, meaning it doesnt conform to Jewish food laws, but this salt is used to make
meat kosher. The Jewish holy book, the Torah, prohibits consumption of any blood,
which is why kosher meat must be slaughtered and prepared in a specic manner. A
common way of removing the nal traces of blood from meat is to soak and salt it.
PRESERVING WITH SALT
Salt draws water out of microbial cells through a process known as osmosis. This
process draws water out of the cell in order to maintain the same salt concentration
inside and outside of the cell. The combination of the lack of moisture and high salt
content inhibits the growth of microorganisms that cause the food to spoil. A salt
concentration of about 20 percent is required to kill most species of bacteria.
As the unwanted bacterial population decreases, the benecial bacteria, primarily
of the Lactobacillus genus (commonly found in yogurt), comes to the foreground
and generates an acidic environment of about 4.5 pH. The process of curing is, in
fact, a form of fermentation, and in addition to reducing further the ability of spoilage
bacteria to grow, accounts for the tangy avor of some cured products. In order to fuel
the lactobacilli to complete the fermentation process, sugar is included in the cure.
Dextrose, a form of glucose, is generally preferred over sucrose (granulated sugar).
This is because glucose is a simple sugar, while sucrose is a complex sugar, made
of glucose and fructose. The bacteria use glucose as their food source. If sucrose is
used, the bacteria will break down the sucrose into its two parts and leave the fructose
behind, sweetening the product.
73
sweetener
The sweetener you use depends on the relative sweetness and the overall avor of the
product. Whiter sugars (for example, glucose, fructose, sucrose, etc.), brown sugar,
maple sugar, and other sugars all have their own unique tastes.
relative sweetness
Sweetness is universally regarded as pleasurable. Perception is not the same thing as
liking, though the two are related. It is common knowledge that not all sweeteners
taste equally sweet.
The perception of sweetness we get from items is different from one another;
each item brings with it a perception we think of as sweet with a good avor and also
a point where it is too much and overpowering. This will drive us to use certain types
and different amounts of sweeteners.
relative sweetness scale

COMPOUND
RATING
Sucrose (granulated sugar)
100
Fructose
140
High-Fructose Corn Syrup
120160
Glucose (dextrose)
7080
Galactose
35
Maltose
3050
Lactose
20
Relative Sweetness Scale Sucrose = 100

In charcuterie, the relative sweetness of 1 lb/454 g dextrose is equal to lb/303 g granulated
sugar, which is also equivalent to 8 oz/227 g honey. You would need lb/303 g sugar and only
8 oz/227 g honey to achieve the same taste of sweetness you get from 1 lb/454 g dextrose.

As the use of salt as a meat preservative spread, a preference developed for certain
salts that produced a pink color and special avor in meat. The reddening effect on
meats was rst mentioned during the latter part of the Roman Empire. Nitrate was
probably present in the crude form of salt that was used: in many cases it was the result of evaporated sea water. In the early 1900s, it was discovered that salt (NaCl) did
not produce the red color, but that sodium and potassium nitrates present in impure
salt did. It was also discovered that sodium nitrate was converted into sodium nitrite
by bacteria found in meat, and then into nitric oxide. The amount of color change
74
CURING & BRINING
is dependent on the amount of myoglobin present in meat (the more myoglobin,

the darker reddish-pink the cured color). Chicken has the lowest myoglobin content,
whereas beef has the highest content. Seafood contains no myoglobin.
More important than for color enhancement, nitrites have been the only acceptable substance to prevent botulism in cured and smoked products, even though more
than 700 substances have been tested as possible replacements.
Today the nitrite used in meat curing is produced commercially as sodium nitrite.
There is a movement to use natural nitrates from vegetable products, such as beet
powder and celery juice.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS CONTAINING NITRITES AND/OR NITRATES:
INSTA CURE NO. 1 (TINTED CURE MIX [TCM]/PRAGUE POWDER NO. I)
This product is used to develop and stabilize the pink cured color in lean muscle tissue of meat and comprise 94 percent sodium chloride (salt) and 6 percent
sodium nitrite. It inhibits the growth of a number of food poisoning and spoilage
organisms, in particular the Clostridium botulinum organism. To prevent botulism,
4 oz/113 g of TCM is needed to cure 100 lb/45.36 kg of meat. TCM contributes to
the characteristic avor of cured meats, and retards lipid fat oxidationalso known
as rancidityin product, preventing stale taste.
INSTA CURE NO. 2
This is a combination of salt, sodium nitrite, sodium nitrate, and pink coloring. It is
used for dry and dry-fermented products, particularly products with longer curing
and drying periods.
saltpeter (potassium nitrate)

Use of saltpeter has been limited by the USDA since 1975. It is not allowed in the
production of smoked or cooked meat or sausages. This restriction is primarily related
to the fact that the exact level of residual nitrites in products treated with potassium
nitrate is hard to determine in advance.
NITRITES AND CANCER
A controversy during the late 1970s came about when it was suggested that nitrite
consumption led to the development of cancer. Tests found that when nitrite and nitritecured products were exposed to certain conditions, the nitrite changed into nitrosamine,
which was believed to cause cancer of the pancreas and alimentary tract. The tests were
done with laboratory animals, feeding them large quantities of nitrosamines. Nitrosamines
develop when bacon is cooked brown. Nitrosamines also develop when pepper and
paprika were mixed with nitrite in dry form and stored for a few months.
As a result of these tests, there is stricter control of the use of nitrite in food
processing. Less nitrite is used to cure meats, and residual nitrites must be less
than 200 ppm (parts per million) in nished processed meats. Today bacon contains
erythorbate or some other vitamin C compound to prevent nitrosamine formation. Also,
nitrite cannot be premixed with paprika and pepper in spice blends; they are packaged
separately and should be mixed and then used right away.
75
seasonings
Here your creativity comes into play. Depending on what kind of avor you want to
have in the nished product, you can add herbs, spices, and other avorings to cures
so that those avors will develop in the product brining. You can also infuse them
into brines by heating the avors (sage, rosemary, garlic, and ginger) as an example.
To infuse the items into the brine, you would bring the brine up to a simmer with
the avorings to release the avors into the brine. You can also use dry spices or
even toasted spices. There are also avors that you can purchase like liquid smoke,
and avors developed by chemists that can be added to the brine to create certain
tastes such as autolyzed yeast extracts, salt, and phosphates, and they may also include
sweeteners, starches, and hydrocolloids, often called gums, soy proteins, or other ingredients. Starches from a variety of natural sources, such as corn and potato, remain
the leading hydrocolloids, followed closely by gelatin. Most important among these
properties are viscosity (including thickening and gelling) and water binding but also
signicant are many others including emulsion stabilization. The degree with which
the hydrocolloid solutions mix with saliva can determine the avor perception you
have. Selecting and blending these ingredients pose challenges, even to seasoned
chefs. Flavoring meat and poultry is still a trial-and-error process; you need to mix and
remix seasonings many times to reach the avor prole you want to achieve.
Over the last few years, there has been an explosion in the types of avors that
meat processors are prepared to look at and consumers are willing to accept. The
industry has gone from simple to very complex avor proles. Ethnic foods are denitely in, and the meat industry is no exception. Authentic ethnicity is key today. For
example, although there is still a market for Tex-Mex food, consumers now want to
see true Mexican cuisine rather than an Americanized version. Ethnic avor trends include Thai, Caribbean, Latin American, Middle Eastern, Greek, and even Egyptian.
Other popular avors include teriyaki, honey, tropical orange, lime, coconut, ginger,
garlic, and specic chiles. Sophisticated consumers are looking for high-quality, valueadded meat and poultry products, eye appeal, and good taste. In food stores there is
a variety of meats that are marinated and Cryovac-ed, so they develop avor as they
are waiting to be sold to customers. But many chefs and customers will still prefer the
basic avors developed with salt and pepper and basic seasonings.
water
Water is essential if you are going to use a brine. Water helps dissolve all the ingredients and avorings, making the ingredients easier to be injected or to penetrate the
mass by absorption.
76
CURING & BRINING
curing methods
There are two basic methods for curing meats: dry curing and wet curing, the latter
also known as brining. Dry curing can be used for many different products, such as
bacon, salmon, and pancetta, to name a few. Brining can be used for a variety of
products as well, but this type of curing is the most benecial when applied to large
items such as whole turkeys, briskets, or bone-in hams.
To use these processes, large containers, mixing bowls, and a decent amount of
storage space are necessary. The processes can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours to
40 to 45 days, depending on the item (sh or meats) being cured and the ingredients
used in the specic cures or brines. Curing items usually takes longer than brining.
The item being cured will determine the amount of time, the texture of the protein,
the thickness of the product, and if there is skin.
USES AND RESULTS OF DIFFERENT CURING METHODS
DRY CURE: Used for products where a lower water content and drier texture are
required. The product has a longer shelf life due to its lower moisture content.
BRINE (WET CURE): Used for items that will be cooked. The nal product can
have moisture content equal to or higher than the original item. This method is used
primarily for larger pieces of meat and for whole poultry.
dry curing
The use of salt was very important before our current method of refrigeration was
invented. In colonial America, almost all foods were salted in order to preserve them,
especially before winter. Salted meat was particularly common; little fresh meat was
eaten except right after an animal was killed, because there was no means of keeping
the meat fresh afterward.
Curing refers to a specic preservation and avoring process, especially of meat
or sh, through the addition of a combination of salt, sugar, and either nitrate or
nitrite. Curing with salt and sugar may be called salting, salt curing, sugar curing, or
honey curing. The application of pellets of salt, called corns, is often called corning.
Dry curing can be as simple as salt alone, but more often the cure is a mixture of
salt, a sweetener of some sort, avorings, and, if indicated or desired, a commercially
or individually prepared curing blend. Preserving foods by curing lets the food take
on a saltier, sharper avor, with a much drier texture. Foods to be cured must be in
direct contact with the cure to help ensure an evenly preserved product. Some may be
wrapped in cheesecloth or food-grade paper; others may be packed in bins or brine
tubs with cure scattered around them and in between layers. They should be turned
or rotated periodically as they cure. This process is known as overhauling. Larger
items such as hams may be rubbed repeatedly with additional cure mixture over a
period of days. If there is an exposed bone in the item, it is important to rub the cure
around and over the exposed area to cure it properly.
77
ratios for basic dry cure

The basic ratio of salt to sweetener in a dry cure is 2 parts salt to 1 part sugar (by
weight). The other seasonings will depend on the item being cured and the depth of
avor you want to develop.
If using a gravlax-style cure (page 101), the ratio of salt to sugar will differ. The
ratio will only be 1 to 1 parts salt to 1 part sugar (by weight), which will be mixed
with the seasonings. Also, the length of time to cure will differ: if using standard cure
on sh, it will take 6 to 12 hours; gravlax-style will take 3 days, or 72 hours, to cure.
This is 1 parts salt to 1 part sugar.
dry cure method for meats

The basic steps taken in curing of meat items are:
1.
2.
3.
Fabricate the product.

Prepare the dry cure.
Calculate the amount of dry cure you will use according to weight of product
(8 oz/227 g of cure mix for every 10 lb/4.54 kg of product).
4.
Rub the measured amount of dry cure into the product. Place it in a covered
nonreactive container, with the items in the container covered.
5.
6.
Overhaul the product every other day.
7.
8.
9.
Wait the required amount of time for your product to complete the curing
process.
Rinse or soak the product in lukewarm water.
Air-dry the product to form a pellicle, a tacky lm formed on the top of the
item that has been cured or brined and rinsed and then air-dried. This process
will form the lm that will help hold the smoke on the product.
Hot- or cold-smoke the product. Cool until 40F/4C, then wrap and store
in a refrigerator.
meat curing times using the dry cure method
78
ITEM
APPROXIMATE TIME
Meat, approx. in/6 mm thick
12 hours
Meat, approx. 1 in/2.54 cm thick
38 hours
Pork belly (1 in/4 cm thick)
710 days
Ham, bone-in (1518 lb/6.808.16 kg)
4045 days
CURING & BRINING
dry cure method for seafood

The process used in curing sh varies slightly from the one used to cure meat. The
ingredients and techniques are the same, except you do not overhaul the seafood, you
use all of the cure, and the time span is shorter. (See Gravlax, page 101.)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Trim the item (remove ns, fat; pull out pin bones; but leave skin on llet).
Prepare the cure.
Score the skin of the sh.
Pack dry cure on the sh.
Wait the required amount of time for your product to complete the curing
process.
Rinse or soak the product in lukewarm water.
Place on a rack and air-dry to form the pellicle.
Hot- or cold-smoke, if desired.
seafood curing times using the dry cure method

ITEM
APPROXIMATE TIME
Shrimp, scallops
1 hour
Trout llets
2 hours
Whole trout
46 hours
Salmon llets[*]
612 hours
*A normal llet of 2 lb/1.13 kg will take 6 hours.
brining (wet curing)

Curing in a salt-and-water solution or brine is known as wet curing, pickling, or brining. The curing of sh is sometimes called kippering. Historically, brining has been
used as a method to preserve meat. Brine is basically a solution of water and salt.
Thus, to brine means to treat with or steep in a solution of water and salt. Sweeteners
and other seasonings may also be added to a brine.
There are one of two ways to dissolve your sugar, salt, and spices in a liquid.
You may use warm water to dissolve the dry cure, or you can bring to a simmer to
infuse it with spices or aromatics. The saline solution should be heated so that the salt
and sugars get dissolved; then it needs to be cooled so the meat or sh does not get
cooked. Either way, the brine must be thoroughly chilled before being used to cure
foods. Both the brine alone and the product being brined need to be kept refrigerated
under 40F/4C.
79
The length of time you leave the product in the brine depends on:
Thickness of the item

Thickness of fat and/or skin cover
Density of the meat
Temperature of the brine
For safety, discard the brine solution after use. Do not reuse a brine.
submersion method for brining

Traditionally, in this method, meat is soaked for many days in a very strong saltwater
solution with addition of sugar, spices, and other ingredients. This curing process
binds the water in the meat or removes it altogether so it is not available for the growth
of food-spoiling microorganisms. This method is normally used for items such as ham
hocks, Cornish hens, hams, and Canadian bacon.
More recently, brining has become more popular and is sometimes called avor brining. Flavor brining is achieved by soaking the product in a moderately salty
solution for a few hours to a few days. The sort of brining we use today is meant to
improve avor, texture, and moisture content while infusing new avors into lean
meat, poultry, and seafood. This form of brining does not have to contain any nitrates
or nitrites. The main ingredients in a avor brine are water and salt. Other ingredients may be brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, fruit juices, beer, liquor, molasses, bay
leaves, pickling spices, cloves, garlic, onion, chiles, citrus fruits, peppercorns, as well as
herbs and spices.
When brining, the items must be immersed completely in the brine. Brining time
varies according to:
Thickness of item overall

Thickness of fat and/or skin cover
Density of meat
Brine temperature (40F/4C for good results and to keep the product out of
the danger zone)
brine pumping
The most popular method being used today for meats to be barbecued or smoked, or
for avor development, is brine pumping. Brine pumping results in a more rapid and
uniform distribution of the brine throughout the item, curing from the center to the
surface, as well as from the surface to the center. Once injected, the items must also be
immersed in a brine and held under refrigeration until the brine is distributed evenly
throughout the esh of the product.
80
CURING & BRINING
Here are some ways that a brine is injected into the product.
STITCH PUMPING is done by inserting a needle with multiple holes into the meat
and injecting the brine into the thickest part of the esh, as close to the bone
as possible.
ARTERY INJECTION involves the use of a needle with a single hole and injecting
the brine through a main artery. The artery in the early days was left slightly
exposed, and the brine was pumped into it to the arterial system. It traveled
through the arteries and worked its way out through the walls and into the
meat; needless to say, that was not the best way, but it worked.
MULTINEEDLE INJECTION is a commercial process used today for curing meat. A
machine that contains multiple needles automatically injects the meat with the
proper amount of brining solution.
The most current process in the industry for bacon production is brining the pork
bellies by injecting them with brine. This is a very even process that is not only fast
but efcient as well.
brine enhancing
Enhanced meat is injected by the producer with a solution of water, salt, and other
ingredients to enhance the moisture content and avor of the meat and some cases
tenderize the product. The use of phosphates along with the water-salt solution will
retain more water in the product. The product does not have to be immersed. The
phosphates retain water, keeping the product moist, creating the juice ham water that
is found in supermarkets.
For larger items such as turkeys,

use a continuous-feed brine pump
to inject the brine into the meat.
After the brine is injected, completely

submerge the meat in a brine bath.
Finished brined and smoked turkey

breast
81
RIGHT: Brine pump with needle

properly stored
BELOW RIGHT:
Continuous-feed brine
pump
Plunger
Cylinder
Needle
Strainer
Hose
meat curing times using the brine method

ITEM
TIME, NOT PUMPED
TIME, PUMPED
Chicken or duck breast
12 hours
not recommended
Chicken whole
2436 hours
1216 hours
Pork butt or loin, boneless
56 days
23 days
Turkey, whole (1012 lb/

4.545.44 kg)
56 days
3 days
Beef brisket (corned beef)
78 days
35 days
Ham, boneless
6 days
4 days
Ham, bone-in
2024 days
67 days
what can go wrong with brines

and cures?
GRAY SPOTS: If
you notice gray spots in the center of the product, this means
that either the product was not cured long enough, or that the cure was too
cold so the salt did not penetrate the center. In order to prevent gray spots from
forming, be sure to cure the product for the correct length of time indicated
82
CURING & BRINING
in the recipe. Make sure to check the temperature of the brine before using it
to ensure that it is not too cold. If both of these guidelines are followed, the
salt should thoroughly penetrate the item being cured and there should be no
occurrence of gray spots in the item.
SPOILAGE: Spoilage
can occur when there is an insufcient amount of salt,

when the area that the curing product was stored in was too warm, or when the
curing time for that particular item was too short. To avoid spoilage, make sure
that the cure has been packed evenly onto the product, and that the product
being cured is stored under proper refrigeration for the indicated length of time.
In order to ensure safety, be sure to keep the product cold at all times, keep all
equipment very clean, and keep the product covered and correctly dated.
tenderizing and avoring

marinades
The verb to marinate means to steep food in a savory acidic sauce (a marinade) to
enrich its avor, tenderize it, and, in many cases, preserve it. Today, a marinade usually consists of a cooking oil (infused oils can also be used) plus an acid (vinegar, citrus
juice, wine), with herbs, spices, seasonings, and aromatics.
The role of acid in a marinade is to break down long protein strandsthe part
of the meat that causes it to be tough. For tenderizing tough cuts of meat its the acid
base that counts. Start with an acidic base like vinegar, wine, or buttermilk. Fruit juice
or milk may also serve as a marinades base. A vinaigrette penetrates meat bers particularly well, since the addition of oil to a marinade aids the penetration of the acid.
If you use prepared vinaigrettes with emulsiers in the ingredients, these appear to
penetrate deeper into the meat, making a better marinade. Emulsiers may be listed
as monoglyceride, diglyceride, or polysorbate 80. These are natural substances and
not considered harmful additives.
In marinades, herbs and spices are combined with tenderizing ingredients such
as lemon juice to give marinades their hearty avor. Marinades really begin to blossom with fruit-based avors, herbs, wines, and liqueurs. The range runs from sweet
to spicy, piquant to fruity, with lots of zesty avors in between. Youll nd that most
recipes are designed for versatility. What tastes great with chicken wings is a surere
winner for marinating spareribs. A passion-fruit marinade that complements chicken
breast can cross over to shrimp.
For the most part, the list of ingredients should be easy to follow. It starts with acids,
followed by oils and fresh and dry aromatics. Lemon juice is a good substitute for lime
juice, while an equal amount of vinegar may be too sharp. When in doubt, use a neutral
avor. Dont double up on other aromatics to compensate for leaving out a portion of one
of them. The aromatics are there as support avors. Doubling up on a strong spice like
cumin may throw the marinade out of balance. If you have qualms about substituting an
herb or a spice, put a little bit of your marinade aside, sprinkle in a pinch, and taste.
83
As the food stands in the mixture, the acid and/or oil impart the savory avors of
the spices to the food. The acid also causes tissues to break down, which has a tenderizing effect. The breaking down of the tissues also causes the item to hold more liquid,
making it juicier. However, too much vinegar or hot sauce in a marinade can have the
opposite effect, causing the meat to be stringy and tough.
For naturally tender cuts, marinades usually take a short time to preserve. For
example, in a steak house, steaks may be placed in a hotel pan or container and
marinated in some herbs, rosemary, garlic, sage, and oil and stored in a refrigerator to
hold until they are ready to be grilled. Also, the oil can be infused with items and then
used to marinate and hold the product. The oil coats the product, gives it some avor,
and seals it by not allowing the air to get to it as fast, and therefore, slowing down the
spoilage process.
TYPE OF MARINADE
USES
Oil and spice
For naturally tender cuts; usually short time bases (can infuse
seasonings for a longer shelf life)
Acid and oil
Typically a vinaigrette; slight tenderization and preservation
Acid and spice
Heavy tenderization (e.g., sauerbraten); preservation (ceviche)
amount of marinade to use

Ideally, the marinade should cover the food in order to avor it evenly. In a baking
dish, the wider the dish, the shallower the depth of the marinade. In that case youll
nd that you need to turn the food more frequently. Use 1 cup/240 mL of marinade
to 1 lb/454 g of meat if youre using resealable plastic bags, or 2 cups/480 mL of
marinade if you are submerging the meat in a small, at baking dish.
marinating times
Fish needs the shortest marinating time, followed by chicken, then meat with the
longest. The rmer the texture, the longer the soak. You can marinate sh or chicken
in the refrigerator overnight or up to a couple of days by adding the acid portion of
your recipe during the last few hours. The acid level for seafood should be lower than
for chicken. If the acidic level is more than 25 percentwhen the vinegar or citrus exceeds 25 percent of the total liquid volumereduce the marinating time. Lean foods
absorb marinades faster due to low fat content. More fat requires more time.
You can start marinating food immediately after mixing the marinade together, or
you can leave a marinade refrigerated overnight for the avors to meld. Marinades can last
for four to ve days before they start to break down and the aromatics lose their strength.
You may need to refresh the marinades avor with additional aromatics and citrus the
day you start marinating your food. Like brines, marinades should not be reused.
84
CURING & BRINING
ACIDS AND ENZYMES IN MARINADES
The two most popular types of marinades are acidic (made with citrus, vinegar, or wine)
and enzymatic (made with ingredients such as pineapple and papaya). Although both
types work primarily on the surface of the food, they lead to different results: highly
acidic marinades can actually toughen food, while enzymatic marinades can turn the
surface of the food to mush. For true tenderizing, the most effective marinades are
those that contain dairy products.
ACIDS
Acidic marinades denature proteins. Imagine the protein in raw meat, chicken, or sh as
individual units of coiled ribbon, with bonds holding each coil in a tight bundle. When
these proteins are exposed to an acidic marinade, the bonds break and the proteins
unwind. Almost immediately, one unwound protein runs into another unwound protein
and they bond together into a loose mesh. (This is the same thing that happens when
proteins are exposed to heat.)
At rst, water molecules are trapped within this protein mesh, so the tissue remains
juicy and tender. But after a short time, if the protein is in a very acidic marinade, the
protein bonds tighten, water is squeezed out, and the tissue becomes tough.
In limited cases, mildly acidic marinades can add wonderful avor to sh and meat,
especially if you enhance the mixture with fresh herbs, spices, or perhaps another liquid
such as Worcestershire sauce. The key is to use the correct strength acid for the food
youre marinating.
ENZYMES MAKE MEAT MUSHY
Enzymatic marinades work by breaking down muscle ber and collagen (connective
tissue), cutting proteins instead of denaturing them. Raw pineapple, gs, papaya,
honeydew melon, ginger, and kiwi all contain such enzymes, known collectively as
proteases (protein enzymes). Unfortunately, these enzymes work almost too well,
turning tough meat muscle into mush without passing through any intermediate stage
of tenderness. The longer the meat marinates, the greater the breakdown of proteins
and the mushier the texture. When you place product in an acidic environment that
is under 5 on the pH scale, it will denature the product but also act to preserve it, as
bacteria do not survive well in an acidic environment.
Most commercial meat tenderizers rely on enzymes to do their tenderizing; a
papaya enzyme, papain, is a common ingredient in these products.
FOR TRUE TENDERIZING, USE BUTTERMILK OR YOGURT
Dairy products are, in my opinion, the only marinades that truly tenderize. Hunters have
long known to marinate tough game in milk; Indian recipes use yogurt marinades for
mutton and tough goat meat; and some Southern cooks soak chicken in buttermilk
before frying. Buttermilk and yogurt are only mildly acidic, so they dont toughen the
way strongly acidic marinades do. Its not quite clear how the tenderizing occurs, but
it seems that calcium in dairy products activates enzymes in meat that break down
proteins, a process similar to the way that aging tenderizes meat.
In deciding how long to marinate, consider the texture of the meat or sh. In
general, open-textured esh like sh llets needs only a few minutes of soaking. Food
with a tighter texture, such as chicken or lamb, can tolerate several hours in a marinade,
even one thats mildly acidic.
85
rubs and dry marinades

Rubs are mixtures of ground herbs, spices, and similar dry ingredients that are massaged into the surface of food (most often meat) to add avor. A rub is not a true marinade because it neither preserves nor tenderizes. The ingredients can be as simple as
salt and pepper rubbed on chicken before roasting. They may encompass traditional
spice mixes such as Indias masala, Malaysias rempahs, North Africas berbere, and
Thailands curry pastes. Rubs blacken redsh in Louisiana; mint and lemon is pressed
into lamb dishes of Greece; and a mixed peppercorn crust is placed on grilled steak.
Generally, highly spiced dry rubs tend to work better on meat and poultry, while
wet rubs or pastes are better with seafood. Rubs can be prepared entirely from dried
herbs and spices. Spices should be bought whole and ground as needed. Stale spices
will taste bitter or medicinal. For the best avor, toast whole spices that you plan on
using and grind them. This accentuates the avors in the spices. When a recipe calls
for pepper, avoid the preground type. Once pepper is ground and in a glass shaker, its
oils are exposed to air and light, with avor fading quickly.
The only equipment needed to prepare rubs is a blender or spice grinder, although the time-honored tradition of mortar and pestle is still preferred by some
cooks. A rub need not be pulverized to a ne powder to release avor. If using a spice
grinder or blender, avoid grinding to the point that some of the oils are released into
the rub from the heat of processing. This causes the rub to become somewhat pasty. If
this happens, the rub will need to be used fairly quickly, as the oil will turn rancid. (To
clean your spice grinder, run a couple of spoonfuls of raw rice through the grinder,
then throw out the rice. Dry rice collects all the spice particles of the previous mix.)
Only a small amount of rub is needed. Less than a tablespoon will avor a whole
chicken breast or dust a 6- to 8-oz/170- to 227-g llet of sh. A quarter cup (60 mL)
will easily cover a side of spareribs, or a whole breast of turkey. The rub can be applied under the breast skin of poultry. The natural juices mix with the rub to provide
a savory baste when it hits a hot grill or broiler.
No spice mix will store indenitely. Nor do all the ingredients age evenly. Storing a
dry rub in a cool airtight environment will maintain its avor for two to three months,
but the avor will not be as intense.
When you use a rub, take small handfuls (using your hands is the most effective)
and coat the entire surface of the food. Use a bit of pressure to rub the spices in, mixing the spices slightly with some of the liquid from the esh so they adhere. When
cooking, expect the rub to turn dark brown; this is what happens as the spices cook.
However, if the rub begins to smoke, heat adjustments need to be made.
dry marinades and rubs

Dry marinades and rubs add avor without excess moisture. Some chefs prefer rubs
to marinades because the rubs provide better avor penetration. The basic difference
between a rub and paste is that a rub is dry and a paste has a bit of moisture to bind it.
Like marinades, rubs grew out of the need for food preservation. Today the jerk joints
of the Caribbean and the barbecue pits of Texas still use traditional dry rubs.
86
CURING & BRINING
To use a dry rub, spread thickly over the meat and rub into the surface. The dry
rub then creates a crust on the surface of a food that is grilled or broiled. Dry rubs
can be prepared from any combination of ingredients, depending on the avoring
that is required.
wet rubs and pastes

Wet rubs or pastes are literally dry rubs that are bound by liquid, usually oil. Because
they cannot be applied as thickly, they are milder in avor than the dry versions, which
make them good on sh or poultry. Besides adding avor, wet rubs also help keep the
meat moist during long cooking periods. Meat is also usually treated with a rub or
paste before it is smoked; in some cases, rubs assist in tenderizing the meat.
Pastes have moisture. The moisture can come from fresh herbs or aromatics such
as onions, shallots, or garlic. Pastes can be bound together with wine, citrus juices, or
oils. Since most pastes are generally mixed from fresh ingredients, their shelf life is
short. Pastes tend to be less piquant than rubs; they work well with seafood without
overpowering it. To get deeper avor penetration with pastes before cooking, rub the
sh or meat with a paste, and then tightly wrap it with lightly oiled plastic wrap. The
liquid and seasonings will be absorbed into the foods surface.
common types of cured meats

MEAT
DESCRIPTION
Bacon
Cured, smoked pork belly
Canadian Bacon
Cured, smoked, fully cooked boneless pork loin
Smoked Pork Butt
Cured, smoked, fully cooked cottage butt
Corned Beef
Cured beef brisket
Ham, cooked
Cured, molded, fully cooked ham (boiled ham)
Ham, smoked
Cured, smoked, fully cooked ham
Pastrami
Cured beef brisket or plate, rubbed with spices and

smoked
Prosciutto
Dry cured, attened hame.g., Parma ham from the Po

Valley in Italy
Smitheld Ham
Dry-cured ham from peanut-fed hogs, from Smitheld,

Virginia
87
asian-style rub
MAKES 1/ CUPS/360 ML
4 oz/113 g brown miso

3 tbsp/45 mL liquid yellow
food coloring (optional)
3 tbsp/45 mL soy sauce
3 tbsp/45 mL sherry
2 tbsp/30 ml kosher salt
1. Combine all of the ingredients. Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
2. To use, spread the rub over the protein and wrap it in cheesecloth. Allow the
protein to marinate for 24 to 48 hours under refrigeration. Remove the cheesecloth and rinse the protein with warm water. Dry the protein under refrigeration
to form a pellicle (see page 78).
1 tbsp/15 mL liquid red

food coloring (optional)
tsp/1.25 mL garlic powder
tsp/1.25 mL ground
white pepper
rosemary-pepper
dry rub
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
4 oz/113 g rosemary,
chopped
Combine all of the ingredients in a spice mill or blender and grind to a coarse
powder. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
2 tbsp/30 mL black
peppercorns
2 tsp/10 mL Colmans
dry mustard
2 tsp/10 mL dried oregano
2 tsp/10 mL garlic powder
1 tsp/5 mL kosher salt
1 tsp/5 mL white
peppercorns
1 tsp/5 mL cayenne
88
CURING & BRINING
chipotle rub
MAKES APPROXIMATELY1 CUP/240 ML
cup/120 mL
Madeira wine
Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth.

Store in an airtight container under refrigeration.
cup/120 mL chipotles
in adobo, chopped
cup/60 mL
low-sodium soy sauce
3 tbsp/45 mL grated
orange zest
2 tbsp/30 mL
Worcestershire sauce
6 garlic cloves, minced
tandoori rub
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
5 tbsp/75 mL sweet paprika

2 tbsp/37.50 mL
ground coriander
Combine all ingredients together. Store in an airtight container in a cool,

dry place.
2 tbsp/37.50 mL
kosher salt
2 tbsp/30 mL ground cumin
1 tbsp/15 mL ground
black pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/15 mL ground ginger
1 tsp/5 mL ground cinnamon
1 tsp/5 mL saffron threads
tsp/2.50 mL cayenne
89
bacon
Basic bacon is an example of a fully cooked smoked item which rst undergoes
a conventional dry-curing method, based on a standard ratio of 2 parts salt to 1
part sugar (by weight).
For the most accurate results, weigh the fresh pork bellies and then determine
how much of the cure mixture you will need. The ratio we have found most useful is 8 oz/227 g of dry cure for every 10 lb/4.54 kg of fresh belly.
A cured belly will lose 7 to 8 percent of its water volume throughout curing
and smoking.
MAKES 4-5 LB/20.41 KG
5 pork bellies, skin on

(10 lb/4.54 kg each)
CURE MIX
1 lb 8 oz/680 g kosher salt

12 oz/340 g brown or
granulated sugar
2 oz/71 g Insta Cure No. 1
1. Wash and dry the bellies. Pierce the skin side with either the tip of a paring
knife or a 6-prong ice chipper. This allows the cure to penetrate the pork a
little faster.
2.
3.
Mix the salt, sugar, and Insta Cure thoroughly to make the cure mix.
Rub the bellies with the cure mix, making sure to cover all areas. Stack the
bellies skin side down in covered plastic or stainless-steel tubs.
4. Refrigerate the pork for 7 to 10 days to cure. Overhaul them every other day
by re-rubbing them with the liquid that has collected in the tub and also rotating
the product, top to bottom, and so on.
5. Rinse the bellies in slightly warm water. Soak in fresh warm water for
30 minutes and blot dry. Hang the bellies on a bacon comb and refrigerate them
for 18 hours to air-dry and form a pellicle.
6. Hot-smoke them at 185F/85C to an internal temperature of 155F/68C,
then cool. (See Chapter 6 for full information on smoking.) Maple, cherry, birch,
and apple work well on pork products. Use about a medium smoke on the
product.
7. Remove the rind. Slice or cut the bacon as required for baking, sauting, or
grilling. The bacon may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
90
CURING & BRINING
After rinsing, hang the bellies on

hooks to air-dry.
After curing and fully cooking, use

a sharp knife to slice the bacon into
thick strips.
91
maple-cured bacon
MAKES 9 LB 4 OZ /4.19 KG
10 lb/4.54 kg pork
belly, skin on
CURE MIX
5 oz/142 g kosher salt

2 oz/78 g maple sugar
4 5
oz/22 g Insta Cure No. 1
1. Wash and dry the belly. Pierce the skin side with either the tip of a paring
knife or an ice chipper. This allows the cure to penetrate the pork a little faster.
2. Mix the salt, sugar, and Insta Cure thoroughly to make the cure mix. Rub
the belly with the cure mix, making sure to cover all areas. Put the belly skin side
down in a covered plastic or stainless-steel tub.
3.
4.
Refrigerate the pork for 7 to 10 days to cure. Overhaul it every other day.
Rinse the belly in slightly warm water. Soak in fresh warm water for 30 minutes and blot dry. Hang the belly on a bacon comb (hooks) and refrigerate it for
18 hours to air-dry and form a pellicle.
5.
Hot-smoke the belly at 185F/85C to an internal temperature of

155F/68C, then cool. (See Chapter 6 for full information on smoking.) Maple,
cherry, birch, and apple work well on pork products. Use about a medium smoke
on the product.
6. Remove the skin. Slice or cut the bacon as required for baking, sauting, or
grilling. The bacon may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
92
CURING & BRINING
dry-rub barbecued
bacon
MAKES 18 LB/8.16 KG
MARINADE
10 oz/284 g ketchup
2 tbsp/30 mL
Tabasco sauce
2 tbsp/30 mL
6 oz/170 g molasses
cup/160 mL malt vinegar
2 pork bellies, skin on

(10 lb/4.54 kg each)
DRY CURE
1 lb/454 g smoked
salt (see Note)
14 oz/397 g brown sugar
1 cup/240 mL smoked
Spanish paprika
1 cup/240 mL Colmans
dry mustard
cup/80 mL ground
black pepper
1.
Combine the ketchup, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauces, molasses, and

vinegar. Coat the bacon slabs with the marinade.
2.
Combine the salt, sugar, Insta Cure, paprika, mustard, pepper, and onion
and garlic powders to make the dry cure. Rub the dry cure over the bellies, making sure to cover all areas. Place in a large covered plastic tub.
3. Refrigerate the pork bellies for 7 days to cure. Overhaul them every other
day.
4. After 7 days, rinse the bacon with warm water and place on bacon combs.
Air-dry the bacon overnight under refrigeration.
5. Cold-smoke the bacon for 3 hours. (See Chapter 6 for full information on
smoking.) Maple, cherry, birch, and apple work well on pork products. Use about
a medium smoke on the product.
6.
Turn the smokehouse to 185F/85C and smoke the bacon to an internal

temperature of 155F/68C.
7. Remove the bacon from the smokehouse. Cool the bacon to room temperature, then transfer to a refrigerator to cool overnight. The bacon is ready to be
used or it may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. Remove skin before use.
Note: Smoked salt is salt that has been cold-smoked to impart avor to salt. Place salt on
foil on a rack and cold-smoke until the desired smoke avor is achieved.
cup/60 mL onion powder

3 tbsp/45 mL garlic powder
93
dry-cured pancetta
10 lb/4.54 kg pork
belly, skin on
DRY CURE

1 oz/28 g juniper
berries, crushed
6 bay leaves, crushed
1.
2.
Trim the pork belly and square off the sides. Trim off the skin.
3.
4.
Refrigerate the pork for 7 to 8 days to cure. Overhaul it every other day.
Place the pork belly in a nonreactive container. In a mixing bowl, combine the
salt, sugar, Insta Cure, juniper berries, bay leaves, nutmeg, thyme, garlic, and pepper
to make the dry cure. Rub the cure mix over the belly, making sure to cover all areas
evenly. Cover the pork with plastic wrap and cover its container with a lid or top.
After 7 days, check the belly for rmness. If it is rm at the thickest point, it
is cured. If it is a little soft, refrigerate the pork for 1 or 2 more days.
2 tsp/10 mL thyme
leaves (about 6 sprigs)
5. Remove the belly from the container and rinse it in warm water to wash
off the cure mix. Place the belly on a rack in a sheet pan. Refrigerate for 4 to 6
hours to air-dry and form a pellicle.
4 garlic cloves, mashed
6.
1 tsp/5 mL ground nutmeg
2 tbsp/30 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
Starting with the long side, roll the pork belly into a tight cylinder, making
sure that there are no air pockets inside the roll. Tie it securely with string.
7. Place the pancetta in a tight net or wrap it in cheesecloth. Hang the pancetta
for 7 days in a cool area (50 to 60F/10 to 16C), with 60 to 65 percent humidity.
8. After 7 days, the pancetta should be rm, but slightly pliable. It is ready to
use or may be wrapped well and refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.
94
CURING & BRINING
Remove the pork belly from the

curing tub, rinse in warm water.
Skin is taken off before curing. It is
rinsed in warm water.
Roll the pancetta into a cylinder.
Secure the cylinder tightly with
string.
bresaola
MAKES ABOUT 2 LB/907 G

1 oz/28 g granulated sugar
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg beef
eye round, cleaned
of fat and sinews
1 tbsp/15 mL black
peppercorns
1 tsp/7.50 mL
chopped rosemary
8 juniper berries, chopped
1. Mix the salt and sugar together. Rub the beef with this mixture and let stand
in a refrigerator for 2 hours.
2. Grind the peppercorns, rosemary, and juniper berries together in a spice
grinder or blender.
3. Remove the beef and rub the spices over the beef, making sure to cover all
areas.
4. Wrap the beef in cheesecloth and hang in a refrigerator for 5 weeks at 60 to
65F/16 to 18C with 55 to 60 percent humidity. When the beef is done. unwrap it from the cheesecloth, wrap in plastic, and store in refrigerator or freeze
for up to 4 weeks.
Note: If desired, the beef may be soaked in enough gin to cover for 12 hours before placing the cure and seasoning on it. You also will need to dry the beef before placing the cure
and seasonings on top.
96
CURING & BRINING
dry-cured capacolla
MAKES ABOUT 3 LB/1.36 KG (SEE NOTES)
5 lb/2.27 kg pork shoulder, trimmed, boneless (see Notes)

CURE MIX
5 tbsp/75 mL kosher salt

5 tbsp/75 mL
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
ground black pepper
1 tsp/5 mL Insta Cure No. 2
10 juniper berries
tsp/2.50 mL
ground mace
cup/120 mL
powdered glucose
cup/60 mL corn
syrup solids
1 tbsp/15 mL Dry-Cured
Capacolla Spice
Mix (page 36)
10 in/25 cm beef bung

(see page 218)
1. Treat the pork shoulder for trichinae by storing it at 5F/15C for 20 days.
(See Precautions for Preventing Trichina Contamination, page 62 in Chapter 4.)
2.
3.
Bring the meat to 34 to 36F/1 to 2C.
Mix the salt, sugar, pepper, Insta Cure, garlic powder, juniper berries, mace,
glucose, corn syrup solids, and spice mix, and grind in a spice grinder or blender
to make the cure mix.
4. Rub the pork on all sides with half of the cure mix. Reserve the remaining
cure mix.
5. Place the pork in a single layer in a plastic container. Cure in the refrigerator
for 9 days at 36 to 38F/2 to 3C, keeping the container covered with plastic
wrap so that the air is kept out and the meat will not become dry.
6.
After 9 days, overhaul the pork. Keep it in the refrigerator for an additional
9 days.
7. Remove the pork from the refrigerator and rinse off any remaining cure
with warm water. Place the pork on a rack and air-dry in the refrigerator to
form a pellicle.
8. Coat the capacolla with the reserved cure mix; rub well, making sure to
cover all areas.
9. Stuff the capacolla tightly into the beef bung, making sure to get all air
pockets out; it should look like one solid piece. Hold at 70 to 80F/21 to 27C
for about 12 hours to dry out the bung.
10.
11.
Hold at 60F/16C for 27 more days at 70 to 80 percent relative humidity.
The capacolla is now ready. It may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to

1 month or may be wrapped and frozen and held for later use.
Notes: The pork will lose 20 to 30 percent of its weight.
The product should be in separate pieces not exceeding 6 in/15 cm in thickness.
Make sure that the pork is trimmed of excess fat.
97
duck-breast bacon
MAKES 1 DUCK BREAST

Pinch of Insta Cure No. 1
1 Moulard duck breast, skin
on (approx. 1 lb/454 g)
1. Combine the salt, sugar, and Insta Cure in a stainless-steel mixing bowl to
make the cure mix.
2. Rub the cure mix over the duck breast and wrap it in cheesecloth. Cure the
duck breast under refrigeration for about 8 hours, hung up in cheesecloth at
40F/4C.
3. Rinse the duck breast in warm water to stop the curing process and to wash
off any remaining salt.
4.
5.
Let the duck breast air-dry on a rack under refrigeration to form a pellicle.
Hot-smoke the duck breast at 185F/85C to an internal temperature of

152F/67C. (See Chapter 6 for full information on smoking.) Hickory, mesquite, and birch work well with duck products. Use a medium smoke intensity.
6.
Cool, wrap, and refrigerate the duck breast. The duck breast may be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks and used as needed, or frozen for up to 4 weeks.
Note: Duck breast bacon may be served on its own or used in sandwiches.
98
CURING & BRINING
coffee-cured duck breast

MAKES 4 BREASTS
4 Moulard duck
breasts, skin on
1 cup/240 mL fresh
ground coffee
cup/180 mL kosher salt
cup/120 mL
granulated sugar
3 tbsp/45 mL grated
orange zest
1. Trim the duck breasts. Separate the breasts, trim the cartilage between
the breasts, trim excess fat from around the breasts, and trim about in/6 mm
fat from breast.
2. Mix the coffee, salt, sugar, and zest to make the cure mix. Spread half of the
cure mix in a half hotel pan.
3. Score the fat of the duck breasts. Place the breasts skin side down in the
hotel pan. Rub the breasts with the remaining cure mix. Cover with plastic wrap
and refrigerate for 12 hours.
4.
Rinse with warm water. Dry in a refrigerator for about 12 hours to create a
pellicle
5. Hot-smoke at 185F/85C to an internal temperature of 150F/66C. (See

Chapter 6 for full information on smoking.) Hickory, mesquite, and birch work
well with duck products. Use a medium smoke intensity.
6. Cool and hold for service, or chill completely and serve cold. Slice thinly
to serve.
7. If not using right away, the duck can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to
2 weeks.
99
duck-breast prosciutto
MAKES 1 BREAST, ABOUT 1 LB/454 G
1 Moulard duck breast (approx. 1 lb/454 g), trimmed

1 cup/240 mL water
cup/60 mL distilled
white vinegar
1 tbsp/15 mL black
peppercorns
1 tbsp/15 mL fennel seeds
2 tbsp/30 mL
coriander seeds
1. Cover the duck breast with the salt and cure for 48 hours under refrigeration
at 40F/4C in a noncorrosive container with plastic wrap on top. Cover the
container with a lid.
2. Combine the water and vinegar. Rinse the duck breast with this solution.
Blot the duck breast dry with paper towels.
3.
4.
Cover the duck breast with the seasonings. Wrap the duck breast in cheesecloth and tie the ends of the cheesecloth with twine.
5. Hang the duck breast to dry in a 58F/14C and about 70 percent humidity
with good air circulation for 14 days.
6.
7.
100
Mix the peppercorns, fennel, and coriander seeds, and grind in a spice grinder.
Unwrap the duck breast and slice thinly to serve.

It may be wrapped well and refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.
CURING & BRINING
gravlax
MAKES 1 FILLET, 2 LB 8 OZ TO 3 LB/1.13 TO 1.36 KG
1 salmon llet (approx.

3 lb/1.36 kg), skin on
1 cup/240 mL
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/15 mL cracked
black pepper
2 bunch dill, chopped
lemon
1.
2.
3.
Remove the pin bones from the salmon and score the skin.
In a bowl, mix the sugar, salt, and pepper to make the cure mix.
Place a large piece of cheesecloth on a sheet pan. Place half of the chopped
dill on top. Sprinkle half of the cure mix over the chopped dill. (The layer
should be slightly thinner where the llet tapers to the tail.)
4. Place the salmon skin side down on top of the cure mix. Squeeze the lemon
juice over the salmon esh and sprinkle with the remaining cure mix and dill.
5.
6.
Wrap the salmon in the cheesecloth.
Place the salmon in a solid hotel pan. Top the salmon with a second hotel
pan. Press down with a 6- to 8-lb/2.72- to 3.63-kg weight.
7. After 3 days, unwrap and gently scrape off the cure; you can rinse the salt
off with warm water. Sprinkle some chopped dill on top and let dry for about 2
to 3 hours The gravlax is now ready to use or it may be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Procedure photos continue on next page.
101
gravlax, continued
On a piece of cheesecloth, lay

down an even layer of the cure
mixture, then place the salmon
on top.
Cover the remainder of the salmon

with an even layer of the cure
mix and begin wrapping with the
cheesecloth.
Wrap the salmon completely in the

cheesecloth, making sure that all
sides are secure but loose around
the sh.
Place the wrapped salmon in a pan

and place a second pan on top to
keep the salmon in direct contact
with the cure.
Weight the top pan to ensure an

even, well-preserved product.
Once the salmon has cured

under refrigeration, unwrap the
cheesecloth.
102
CURING & BRINING
Scrape or rinse off the cure, dry with a paper towel,

and sprinkle the chopped dill on top. Use a slicing
knife to cut the salmon into paper-thin slices.
103
prosciutto hudson valley

MAKES ABOUT 17 LB 11 OZ/8.00 KG
25 to 28 lb/11.34 to 12.70
kg trimmed whole pork
leg, bone-in (see Notes)
4 oz/113 g pork leaf fat
(kidney fat), ground
oz/15 g rice our
1.
2.
Trim the leg (see notes). Remove the foot just below the lower knuckle.
3.
4.
Weigh the leg and record the green (uncured) weight.
Tie a string just below the bulge in the leg where it was cut, you need to
secure the shank in two places so that it is secured very well. When tying with
string, tie it twice around the bone in two places so that it will hold.
Place the leg on a cutting board. Cut away excess esh; trim any silver skin
and any soft fat.
5. Mix the salt and Insta Cure to make the cure mix. Spread half of the cure
mix on the leg and massage it in well; reserve the remaining mix.
6. Place the leg in a deep perforated hotel pan on top of a small cutting board
to create a 45-degree angle so gravity will help pull some of the moisture out.
Place a 7- to 8-lb/3.18- to 3.63-kg wooden cutting board on top to weight the
leg down and give it the traditional shape.
7. Place the pressed leg in a refrigerator at 40F/4C at 60 to 70 percent
relative humidity for 20 days.
8. On the twentieth day, spread with the second half of the cure mix and
massage it in well. Weigh to see loss and document. Put it back in the refrigerator for 20 days more.
9. After 40 days, the ham should feel rm all over and have taken in almost all
the salt. (At this point, about 15 percent of its initial weight should be lost.)
10. Rinse the leg with warm water and hang it in the refrigerator to begin
the drying process. (Store at 38 to 40F/3 to 4C at around 70 to 75 percent
relative humidity with slow air movement for 5 to 6 months.) Periodically wipe
off any mold or dust that collects on the ham. At the end of this stage, the ham
should have lost up to 25 percent of its initial raw weight.
11. Seal the prosciutto with a mixture of the pork leaf fat and rice our.
Smear the mixture evenly on the rump knucklebone and the entire cut surface
of the ham. Hang at 50F/10C and 50 to 75 percent relative humidity for
about 6 months.
12. Ham should have lost about one third of its original trimmed weight. It is
now ready to eat. Slice very thinly. Wrap in plastic and hold in the refrigerator or
can freeze for up to 4 weeks.
104
CURING & BRINING
Notes: Pork legs for prosciutto weigh in at 30 to 35 lb/13.61 to 15.88 kg before trimming
and are cut free from the carcass perpendicular to its length at a point 3 in/9 cm above
the tip of the aitchbone.
Make sure the aitchbone is taken off but do not make a big hole when you take it out.
Removal of the trotter, tail bone, pelvic bone, sirloin, and ank-side fat yield a leg ready for
salting in the ideal range of 25 to 28 lb/11.34 to 12.70 kg.
The leg should have ample fat cover, about 1 in/4 cm, and all the skin.
The leg should be as fresh as possible and kept cold prior to trimming and salting.
Weight the leg down with a cutting board to create the traditional
prosciutto shape.
Cover the exposed esh evenly

with the leaf fatrice our mixture
to help keep it from overdrying.
Cut the nished prosciutto into

paper-thin slices for serving.
105
fully cooked capacolla

2 qt/2.16 L cold water

cup/120 mL dextrose
2 tbsp/30 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
3 to 4 (12 lb 8 oz/5.67
kg) boneless pork
butts, lean, trimmed
cup/120 mL hot
Spanish paprika,
cup/120 mL cayenne
1.
2.
Combine the water, dextrose, Insta Cure No. 1, and salt to prepare the brine.
3.
4.
Brine the pork butts under refrigeration for 3 days.
5.
6.
Rub the pork butts with the paprika and cayenne.
Chill the pork butts to 38F/3C. Inject the pork butts with brine equal to
10 percent of the total weight. (A 4-lb/1.81-kg pork butt should be pumped with
6 to 7 oz/180 to 210 mL of brine.) Submerge the pork butts in the remaining
brine solution in a covered brine tub.
Rinse or soak the pork butts in warm water for about an hour to wash the
salt off, then let dry. Place a on rack or hang.
Stuff the pork butts into the bung casings, making sure to pack the pork very
tightly. Prick the casings with a teasing needle to let the air escape. You want this
to be one piece, so you need to get rid of all the air pockets and pack rmly.
7.
Hang the pork butts in a refrigerator, ideally overnight, at least 6 to 8 hours

in a walk-in, at 40F/4C. Air-dry to form a pellicle.
8.
Hot-smoke at 130F/54C for 3 hours. (See Chapter 6 for full information

on smoking.) Maple, cherry, birch, and apple work well on pork products. Use
about a medium smoke on the product.
9. Increase the temperature to 150F/66C for 2 hours. Apply light smoke for
the last 2 hours. The smoke should be constant but not heavy.
10. Raise the temperature to 160 to 165F/71 to 74C and smoke the pork
butts until they reach an internal temperature of 152F/67C.
11. Remove the pork from the smokehouse. Dip the pork butts into boiling
water momentarily to shrink the casing.
12.
13.
Place in an ice-water bath for 10 minutes.
14.
15.
Cool overnight in a refrigerator.
Hang at room temperature until an internal temperature of 110F/43C

is reached.
Slice thinly to serve, wrap, and hold in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks or

freeze up to 3 weeks.
106
CURING & BRINING
sweet or hot coppa

MAKES 5 LB/2.27 KG
CURE MIX

5 tbsp/75 mL
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/22.50 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
10 juniper berries
tsp/2.50 mL
ground mace
5 lb/2.27 kg boneless
pork shoulder
certied (see Note)
3 cups/840 mL
powdered glucose
1 cups/420 mL light
corn syrup solids
1. Mix the salt, sugar, pepper, Insta Cure, garlic powder, juniper berries, and
mace in a spice grinder or blender to make the cure mix.
2. Rub half of the cure mix on the meat and place in a covered plastic container for 9 days at 36 to 38F/2 to 3C, overhauling every other day.
3. Rub the remaining cure mix on the meat and cure for 9 more days.
Overhaul every other day.
4.
5.
6.
Rinse the meat in warm water and dry for 3 hours, on a rack or hang.
7.
8.
Hang the coppa at 65 to 75F/18 to 24C for about 12 hours to air-dry.
9.
The coppa may be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Season with glucose, corn syrup solids, and Coppa Spice Mix.
Stuff the pork shoulder into the beef bung, packing it in very well, getting all
the air pockets out; this should be like one piece (see page 218).
Place in an area at 60F/16C at about 70 percent relative humidity, holding

the coppa for 20 to 35 days.
Note: See the table on Certifying Pork via Freezing on page 63 in Chapter 4.
cup/120 mL Coppa
Spice Mixes (page 37)
107
duck cont
(preserved duck)
MAKES 3 LB/1.36 KG
12 medium shallots, peeled

3 medium yellow onions
1.
Pure the shallots, onions, and parsley in a food processor until a paste
forms.
2.
1 bunch parsley,
leaves and stems
In a mixing bowl, combine the onion mixture, salt, Insta Cure, sugar, garlic,
peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, and Four-Spice Mix to make the cure mix.
CURE MIX
3. Disjoint the duck and trim the excess fat from the legs. Rub the duck well
with the cure mix. Place the duck pieces in a nonreactive container. Place a second container on top. Place a weight, such as a brick, on top and allow the duck
pieces to sit overnight under refrigeration to cure.

cup/60 mL brown sugar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 black peppercorns, crushed
tsp/2.50 mL
ground bay leaf
1 tsp/5 mL thyme leaves
1 tbsp/15 mL FourSpice Mix (page 35)
4 lb/1.81 kg whole
Moulard duck legs
2 qt/2 L rendered duck fat
4.
5.
On day 2, overhaul the duck and let stand again under weight overnight.
On day 3, rinse off the cure and blot the duck pieces dry with paper towels.
In a saucepan, place 2 cups water and all of the duck fat and cook over medium
heat until the duck fat renders. The fat will become clear, so you can see the
bottom of the pan, but make sure you do not burn the fat. Strain and hold until
needed.
6. In a sauce pot, bring the duck fat to a simmer; add the duck pieces and simmer slowly for 2 to 3 hours, until fork-tender.
7.
8.
Remove the duck pieces and chill.
Cool the duck fat to room temperature. Strain the duck fat, and store the
duck pieces by immersing them in the cooled duck fat. Cover the duck and fat
and refrigerate. The duck will last several weeks under refrigeration; store for at
least a week before using, as this will allow the duck legs to develop avor.
9. When ready to use, remove the duck pieces and reserve the duck fat for storing the next cont. Fat can be reused as long as it is not burned.
Note: You may elect to cold-smoke the meat between steps 5 and 6. Hickory, mesquite,
and birch work well with duck products. Use hot smoke at 185F/85C at a medium
smoke intensity. If meat is smoked, do not reuse the duck fat again unless you are cooking
more smoked duck legs.
108
CURING & BRINING
Disjoint and trim the duck legs,

reserving any trim as it will be rendered down.
Rinse any remaining cure from the

duck pieces and blot dry.
Remove the nished duck pieces

from the fat as needed and wipe
off any excess fat with your ngers.
Aging in the fat softens the meats

proteins, allowing the tender duck
to be pulled off the bone easily.
109
spicy duck capacolla

MAKES APPROXIMATELY 6 LB/2.72 KG
5 lb 8 oz/2.50 kg duck legs

and thighs, skin and bones
removed and cleaned of
fat, cartilage, and sinews
2 tbsp/30 mL light
corn syrup
8 oz/227 g fatback, cut into
-in/6-mm cubes, frozen
2 tsp/10 mL very coarsely
ground black pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL red
pepper akes, crushed
medium-ne
1 tbsp/15 mL hot paprika
1 tsp/5 mL cayenne
cup/120 mL
ice-cold grappa
2 tsp/10 mL anise
seeds, crushed
54 in/137 mm beef
round casings
1.
2.
Trim the meat of fat and sinew. Cut into - to 1-in/1- to 3-cm cubes.
Combine and mix the meat, Insta Cure, corn syrup, and salt. Freeze until
slightly frozen.
3. Grind the meat using a -in/1-cm grinder plate, passing the meat through
the grinder twice. Divide the meat and grind half of the mixture through the
-in/6-mm grinder plate. (Remember to chill thoroughly between grindings.)
4.
5.
Grind the fatback using a -in/6-mm grinder plate.
Once the meat and fat have been ground, place all of the meat and fat into a
20-qt/19.20-L mixer bowl with a paddle attachment.
6. Add the black pepper, red pepper akes, garlic powder, paprika, cayenne,
grappa, and anise seeds to the meat and fat. Mix on speed #1 for 60 seconds,
then speed #2 for 15 to 30 seconds, until a sticky mass forms.
7.
8.
Make a taste tester (see page 154). Adjust the seasoning as needed.
Stuff into the prepared casings and tie the ends with a bubble knot (see
page 222).
9.
Hang the meat for 4 days in a 50F/10C area with low humidity (about 50
to 60 percent) and lots of air movement.
10.
Hold the meat in a 60F/16C area with about 70 percent relative humidity for about 4 weeks. The capacolla will lose 20 to 30 percent of its moisture
during this time and will become rm.
11. The capacolla is now ready for use. Wrap in plastic, hold under refrigeration for up to 3 weeks, or freeze for later use.
110
CURING & BRINING
fennel-cured salmon
MAKES 1 FILLET, 2 LB 8 OZ TO 3 LB/1.13 TO 1.36 KG
1 salmon llet (approx.

3 lb/1.36 kg), skin on
2 cups/480 mL
granulated sugar
13 oz/376 g La
Baleine ne sea salt
1 tsp/2.50 mL coriander
seeds, toasted and cracked
1 tsp/7.50 mL black
peppercorns, toasted
and cracked
1 tsp/5 mL grated lime zest
2 tsp/12.50 mL
grated lemon zest
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
grated orange zest
2 cups/480 mL
chopped fennel fronds
1-in/4-cm piece
ginger, nely chopped
1-in/4-cm piece
lemongrass, nely chopped
cup/120 mL gin
1.
2.
Remove the pin bones from the salmon and score the skin.
In a bowl, mix the sugar, salt, coriander, pepper, and lime, lemon, and
orange zests to make the cure mix. In a separate bowl, mix the fennel fronds,
ginger, and lemongrass.
3. Brush the esh side of the salmon llet with a little bit of gin, pour the remainder of the gin into the cure mixture, and mix well. Place a large piece of
cheesecloth on a sheet pan. Sprinkle some of the cure down on the cheesecloth.
Center the salmon llet on top of the cheesecloth and cure mixture. Sprinkle
half of the cure mix evenly over the salmon llet. (The layer should be slightly
thinner where the llet tapers to the tail.)
4.
5.
6.
Pack the fennel frond mixture evenly over the salmon.

Sprinkle the remaining cure mix on top of the llet.
Wrap the llet in the cheesecloth and cure for 12 hours under refrigeration,
at 40F/4C.
7. Rinse off the cure in warm water. Air-dry on a rack on a sheet pan, placed
where there is a lot of air movement, for 6 to 8 hours under refrigeration to form
a pellicle. Wrap and store for up to 1 week under refrigeration.
8.
The salmon may be served as is, sliced thinly on a bias.
Note: The salmon may be cold-smoked for 2 hours following air-drying. Cold-smoke under
70F/21C, for about 2 hours at a medium smoke intensity. If you can cold-smoke at a
temperature under 40F/4C, this would be ideal. Cool, wrap, and store in the refrigerator
for up to 1 week, following air-drying. (See Chapter 6 for full information on smoking.)
111
balsamic herbal
marinade
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
cup/120 mL
balsamic vinegar
cup/60 mL lemon juice
Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, and zest in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk
in the oil gradually. Whisk in the garlic, parsley, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper.
Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
1 tbsp/15 mL
grated lemon zest
cup/160 mL extravirgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves,
minced or pressed
cup/60 mL chopped
at-leaf parsley
cup/60 mL
shredded basil
tsp/2.50 mL kosher salt
tsp/1.25 mL cracked
black pepper
112
CURING & BRINING
basil marinade
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
3 tbsp/45 mL
balsamic vinegar
cup/60 mL fresh
lemon juice
1 tbsp/15 mL grated lemon zest
1 tbsp/15 mL Sambuca
or other licorice or
anise liqueur
Combine the vinegar, lemon juice and zest, and Sambuca in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk in the oil gradually. Whisk in the basil, garlic, shallot, salt, and
peppercorns. Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
Note: This easy marinade is perfect for grilling sh in the summer. You also may drizzle it
over mozzarella cheese and fresh tomatoes. The Sambuca in the recipe adds a hint of licorice that really perks up the basil and lemon.
cup/120 mL olive oil

cup/80 mL nely
chopped basil leaves,
tightly packed
3 garlic cloves,
minced or pressed
1 tbsp/15 mL
chopped shallot
8 black peppercorns
113
lemon-caper marinade

1 tbsp/22.50 mL
grated lemon zest
Combine the lemon juice, zest, and mustard in a nonreactive mixing bowl.
Whisk in the olive oil gradually. Whisk in the capers, garlic, shallot, parsley, salt,
and pepper. Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
1 tsp/5 mL Dijon mustard

cup/120 mL olive oil
3 tbsp/45 mL
medium capers, rinsed
3 garlic cloves,
minced or pressed
2 tbsp/30 mL
chopped shallot
1 tbsp/15 mL
chopped parsley
tsp/1.25 mL ground
black pepper
1 cups/360 mL olive oil
Brine for Fish (below)
brine for sh
MAKES 2 GAL/7.68 L
2 gal/7.68 L water
Combine all of the ingredients in a stockpot. Bring the brine to a boil. Cool the
brine to room temperature.
1 lb/454 g granulated sugar

cup/120 mL pickling spice
1 garlic clove, minced
114
CURING & BRINING
lemon and herb

marinade
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
1 cups/360 mL olive oil

1 cup/240 mL lemon juice
Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
1 tbsp/15 mL chopped basil

1 tbsp/15 mL
tsp/2.50 mL
Tabasco sauce
tsp/1.25 mL
granulated sugar
Pork and Beef Brine (below)
pork and beef brine

MAKES 3 GAL/11.52 L
3 gal/11.52 L water
1 lb 8 oz/680 g
dextrose (see Note)
2 tbsp/30 mL onion
powder (optional)
In a stockpot, combine all of the ingredients. Bring the brine to a boil. Cool the
brine to room temperature. The brine is now ready to use.
Note: The amount of sweetener will depend on the type of sweetener used, due to the degree of sweetness. White or brown sugar, maple sugar, honey, and molasses are just a few
types of sweeteners that can be used; you should taste the brine to determine the amount
of sweetener you would like to have in the brine.
2 tbsp/30 mL garlic
powder (optional)
115
shrimp marinade
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
2 medium oranges,
thinly sliced
Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Place in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or use as needed.
1 medium lemon,
thinly sliced
1 medium yellow
onion, thinly sliced
1 cups/360 mL
vegetable oil
cup/120 mL white
wine vinegar
1 tsp/7.50 mL
chopped dill
tsp/1.25 mL garlic powder
Kosher salt, as needed
Ground black
pepper, as needed
Granulated sugar,
as needed
Brine for Scallops or
Shrimp (below)
brine for scallops or

shrimp
MAKES 6 CUPS/1.44 L
2 cups/480 mL water
In a sauce pot, combine and mix all of the ingredients except for the ice. Bring
the brine to a boil. Remove from the heat. Add the ice to cool the brine down.
The brine is now ready to use.

1 tsp/5 mL onion powder
3 cups/720 mL crushed ice
116
CURING & BRINING
poultry brine
MAKES 3 GAL/11.52 L
3 gal/11.52 L water
1 lb 8 oz/680 g brown
sugar (see Note)
In a stockpot, combine all of the ingredients. Bring the brine to a boil. Cool the
Note: The amount of sweetener will depend on the type of sweetener used, due to the
degree of sweetness. Honey and maple sugar are some types of sweeteners that can be
used to replace the brown sugar.

6 tbsp/90 mL pickling spice
bunch sage
maple brine for poultry

MAKES 3/ QT/3.36 L
2 qt/2.16 L water
3 cups/720 mL
dry vermouth
In a sauce pot, combine all of the ingredients. Bring the brine to a boil. Cool the
1 cups/360 mL
kosher salt
1 cup/240 mL maple syrup
1 yellow onion,
medium, sliced
lemon
3 tbsp/45 mL ground
black pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL celery
seeds, crushed
6 sage leaves
3 bay leaves, crumbled
117
Pastrami sandwich
pastrami (brined,
spiced, smoked beef )
MAKES 1 BRISKET, 10 TO 12 LB/4.54 TO 5.44 KG
1 beef brisket, 10 to12

lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg
(see Note)
BRINE
1 gal/5.76 L water
1 lb to 1 lb 4 oz/454
to 567 g kosher salt
5 oz/142 g
granulated sugar
3 garlic cloves
1 tbsp/15 mL pickling spice
2 oz/57 g coriander
seeds, toasted
2 oz/57 g black peppercorns, toasted, cracked
1.
2.
Trim the external fat on the brisket to 6 in/1.50 mm thick.
In a brining tub, combine the water, salt, sugar, and Insta Cure. Mash the
garlic cloves and crush the pickling spice and add to the brine solution.
3.
Weigh the brisket and inject the brisket with brine equal to about 10 percent
of its weight.
4.
Place the brisket in the brining tub and use a plate or rack to keep it completely below the surface.
5.
6.
Brine the brisket for 3 days.
After 3 days, remove the brisket from the brine and soak it in warm water for
30 minutes. Drain and dry the brisket.
7. Grind the coriander and peppercorns to medium-ne in a spice grinder. Rub

the spices over the surface of the brisket on all sides.
8. Cold-smoke the brisket for 2 hours. (See Chapter 6 for full information on
smoking.)
9. Hot-smoke the brisket at 185F/85C to an internal temperature of 155 to
160F/68 to 71C. The smoke intensity should be about medium; you do not
want it to be too strong. Cherry, mesquite, and hickory are woods that go well
with beef products.
10.
To nish the pastrami, simmer in water until tender, about 2 hours. It

may also be cooled, wrapped, and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. To reheat
the brisket, place it in water or stock and reheat to an internal temperature of
165F/74C.
Note: Beef plate can also be used in place of brisket.
119
corned beef
MAKES 1 BRISKET, 10 TO 12 LB/4.54 TO 5.44 KG
1 gal/5.76 L water
1 lb to 1 lb 4 oz/454
to 567 g kosher salt
5 oz/142 g
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/15 mL
pickling spice, crushed
1 beef brisket, 10 to
12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg
(see Note)
1. In a stockpot, combine the water, salt, sugar, and Insta Cure. Pure the garlic
and pickling spice in a blender with about 1 cup/240 mL of the brine. Combine
the pured mixture with the brine.
2. Bring the brine to a boil. Remove from the heat and cool to room
temperature.
3. Weigh the brisket and inject the brisket with brine equal to about 10 percent
of its weight.
4. Place the brisket in a brining tub and add enough brine to submerge it. Use
a plate or plastic wrap to keep it completely below the surface. Brine the brisket
for 3 days under refrigeration.
5.
6.
7.
After 3 days, drain the brisket. Place it in a stockpot.

Add enough water to cover the brisket. Simmer for 3 hours, or until tender.
Remove the brisket, split it in half, following the natural separation between the two pieces of meat (cap and brisket), and trim off the excess fat. The
brisket is ready to serve. It may also be cooled, wrapped, and refrigerated for
up to 2 weeks. Reheat by slicing the meat thinly and sauting. You can also reheat it whole by placing the product in water or stock and slowly reheating to
165F/74C, then slice and use as required.
Note: You can use a bottom round of beef and cure like corned beef; this will give you a
larger piece of meat and less fat.
120
CURING & BRINING
honey-brined duck
MAKES 1 GAL/3.84 L BRINE/1 DUCK
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
8 black peppercorns
9 juniper berries
6 sage leaves
1 gal/3.84 L water
1 cup/240 mL honey
cup/120 mL
Madeira wine
1 whole Moulard
duck, trimmed
1. Wrap the thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, juniper berries, and sage in cheesecloth and tie with string to make a sachet. In a stockpot, combine the sachet,
water, salt, honey, Insta Cure, and Madeira to make a brine. Bring the brine
to a boil.
2.
3.
Cool the brine to room temperature. The brine is now ready to be used.
4.
5.
6.
Drain the duck and then rinse it with warm water. Pat the duck dry.
A whole duck should be brined for 48 hours. If the duck is injected with
brine equal to 10 percent of its weight beforehand, it will need to be brined only
for 10 to 12 hours. Place the duck in a deep plastic or stainless-steel container
and add enough brine to submerge it. Use a plate or plastic wrap to keep it completely below the surface.
The duck may be nished by roasting as usual or by smoking.
If smoking the duck, place the duck on a sheet tray on a rack and air-dry
under refrigeration at 40F/4C for 6 to 8 hours to form a pellicle.
7. Cold-smoke the duck for 2 to 4 hours. (See Chapter 6 for full information on
smoking.) Hickory, mesquite, and birch woods go well with duck. Use a medium
smoke intensity. During the cold-smoking, prick the breast many times with the
tip of a paring knife to release the excess fat.
8.
Finish the duck by hot-smoking it at 185F/85C to an internal temperature

of 155F/68C. The duck may be served immediately or cooled, wrapped, and
stored for up to 2 weeks under refrigeration.
121
soft brined roasted

pork loin
MAKES 2 QT/2 L BRINE, 1 LB/454 G PORK LOIN
BRINE
2 qt/2 L water
1 lb/454 g pork loin,

boned, trimmed, and
tied to hold shape
1 oz/28 g Dijon mustard
SPICE RUB
oz/7 g cardamom seeds

oz/7 g fennel seeds
1.
In a sauce pot, combine the water, salt, and brown sugar to make the brine.
Bring the brine to a boil, then cool to room temperature.
2.
3.
Brine the pork for 12 hours under refrigeration.
4.
5.
Lightly toast the cardamom, fennel, and peppercorns for the spice rub. Cool.
Rinse the pork with warm water and dry well. Spread the mustard evenly
over the pork loin.
Grind the toasted spices, chili powder, and salt in a spice grinder or blender.
Season the pork loin on all sides with the spice rub.
6.
Roast the pork loin to an internal temperature of 145F/63C. The pork

loin may be served hot with a sauce, or chilled and served thinly sliced with pickles and mustard. The pork may be held under refrigeration for up 2 weeks.
oz/7 g black peppercorns

1 oz/28 g chili powder
oz/14 g kosher salt
122
CURING & BRINING
pickled swedish herring

MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 large salt herring

1 medium red onion, sliced
6 allspice berries, crushed
cup/180 mL
distilled white vinegar
cup/60 mL water
5 tbsp/75 mL
granulated sugar
5 white peppercorns
5 allspice berries
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp/30 mL chopped dill
1.
2.
Clean the sh, remove the head, and soak in cold water overnight.
Remove the bones and cut the sh into llets. Cut the llets into small slices,
about -in/1-cm tranches.
3.
Place the sh in a covered plastic container. (If desired, arrange the slices in
a glass bowl for a more elegant presentation.) Cover the sh with the onion slices
and sprinkle with the crushed allspice. Cover and hold under refrigeration.
4. In a nonreactive sauce pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, peppercorns,

allspice, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat.
5.
6.
Chill, then strain out the solids.
Pour the strained liquid over the sh. Cover and let stand overnight in a
refrigerator.
7. Garnish with chopped dill before servicing. Stored in a covered plastic container; this can be held for up to 1 week.
123
chapter
smoking
titles
chapter subtitle
chapter six
chapter number
Smoking foods is a chemical process achieved by burning whole
hardwoods, sawdust, or herbs, spices, or even such material as grapevine

clippings that create a vapor of smoke. There are many types of
homemade and commercial smokehouses/smokers. They range in price

chapter
from
$200
opener
to $4,000;
text capacity varies from 20 lb/9.07 kg to 50100
lb/22.6845.36 or more. When working with a smokehouse/smoker,
make sure you open the damper wide to allow the moisture to escape
(you can adjust the damper as needed) and keep items from sweating.
When items are wet inside, the smoke will not stick to the wet surface.
When we think of smoked meats, poultry, and sh, we usually think of avor rst,
then preservation. The moister, more lightly salted smoked foods produced today are
more palatable than the heavily salted and very dry foods of the past. Remember,
however, that heavily salted and dried foods are preserved; todays lightly salted and
less dry foods need to be treated as perishable.
There are a number of reasons people choose to smoke foods. Doing it yourself
is far less costly than buying the nished product. When you smoke product at home,
for your own consumption, you have a lot more control over the outcome and the
amount of smoke and salt used. When you produce an item for use in a restaurant,
you need to follow your local health departments recommendations. You will need a
HACCP procedure whereby you document the process followed and record the times
and temperatures of the product during processing to ensure safe handling.
The smokehouse unit is the most important factor in successful processing. The
smoke must circulate evenly around the food. Time, temperature, and moisture are
the three elements that must be regulated properly for good results. Precise temperature regulation is essential for the quality and safety of both hot-smoke and coldsmoke products. Use professional equipment obtained from an established supplier. A
restaurant already has many of the items needed for smoking. The bigger investment
would be the smoker, which will need to be under a hood so the smoke can be vented.
Determine the size of the smoker based on the volume you will be producing, Each
individual establishment will have to determine the cost effectiveness of producing
in-house or purchasing the product. Smoking is a simple, easy process that produces
wonderful results. And you can control the salt, sugar, and fat content of your own
smoked foods, as well as experiment with herbs and other avorings.
Smoked foods may be treated as menu items on their own or used as a seasoning
in other dishes.
properties of smoke
Smoke is the complex production of very complicated compounds that occur during
the thermal decomposition of wood (chips or sawdust). This process primarily occurs
in a temperature range of 390 to 750F/199 to 399C. Although at the point of
generation, smoke is a gas, it rapidly separates into a vapor and a particle state. It is
the vapor phase that contains the components largely responsible for the avor and
aroma that smoke imparts to foods. More than 300 different compounds have been
isolated from wood smoke, but not all of these compounds occur in smoked meat
products. The components most commonly found are phenols, organic acids, alcohols, carbonyls, hydrocarbons, and some gaseous components such as carbon dioxide,
carbon monoxide, oxygen, nitrogen, and nitrous oxide.
126
SMOKING
Smoke is applied to meat for the following reasons:

PRESERVATION: Phenolic compounds and formaldehyde have antimicrobial
action; this affects only the surface of the meat, as smoke does not penetrate
deeply into items.
Smoke produces a number of acids that cling to the meat and form an
outside layer or skin. The acids help the coagulation of the proteins on the
surface of the meat and also help preserve the meat by preventing the growth of
surface mold and bacteria.
COLOR: The
bacterial action of smoking meat is due to the combined effects of

heating, drying, and chemical components in the smoke. When present on the
surface of the meat, smoke components such as acetic acid, formaldehyde, and
creosote prevent microbial growth.
The phenols are known to possess strong bacteriostatis that contributes to
preservation. Phenols also act as antioxidants. They contribute to the color and
avor of smoke products as well.
AROMA AND FLAVOR: Phenols, carbonyl compounds, and organic acids contribute
to the smoky taste. Excessive smoke avor can become bitter.
Color development is caused by the interaction of the carbonyls in the
vapor phase of the smoke with amino groups on the surface of the foods.
Maximum color formation is directly related to smoke concentration,
temperature, and the moisture content of the surface of the products, with 12
to 15 percent of moisture at the exterior surface of meat resulting in maximum
color development. Therefore, some surface drying is necessary for good color
formation during the smoking of meats. When added with the reddish color of
the cooked cured meat, you see a reddish brown color that is characteristic of
smoked products.
PROTECTION FROM OXIDATION: Components in smoke prevent or slow down lipid
oxidation that contributes to a stale-fat taste.
pellicle formation
Before cured foods are smoked, they should be allowed to air-dry long enough to form
a tacky skin, known as the pellicle. The pellicle plays a key role in producing excellent
smoked items. It acts as a kind of protective barrier for the food, and also helps to capture the smokes avor and color. Most foods can be properly dried by placing them
on racks or by hanging them on hooks or sticks in the refrigerator or a cool room.
They should be air-dried uncovered. It is important that air be able to ow around
all sides. To encourage pellicle formation, place the foods so that a fan blows air over
them. The exterior of the item must be sufciently dry if the smoke is to adhere.
127
To form a pellicle, or tacky protective skin, on a food that will

be smoked, air-dry the item on a rack that allows air to ow
around all sides.
A properly formed pellicle enables the product to capture

the smokes avor and color.
basic safety considerations

Raw material must be fresh with no signs of detectable spoilage, and must be maintained at 33F/1C or less prior to smoking.
Completely thaw meat or poultry before smoking. Thawing of frozen food must
be done at a temperature no higher than 45F/7C. Because smoking may use low
temperatures to process or cook the food, the item will take too long to thaw in the
smokehouse, allowing it to linger in the temperature danger zone where harmful bacteria can multiply. Thawed meat also cooks more evenly.
Be sure to refrigerate and store smoked items properly when nished.
128
SMOKING
FIVE STEPS IN PREPARING SMOKED FOODS
1. Prepare item.
Trim excess fat.

Truss poultry.
Bone large pieces of meat.
Clean gills, guts, and blood from sh.
Remove rind from cheese.
2. Cure or brine item (optional).
Insta Cure No. 1 prevents growth of Clostridium botulinum in the anaerobic

environment of cold-smoking.
Add avor.
Enhance color.
3. Rinse the item to be smoked.
Stop the curing process.

Remove excess salt.
Prevent salt crystallization on the surface.
4. Dry item well.
Essential for pellicle formation

A wet surface will not absorb smoke.
You might use alcohol to brush on the outside of the product to give some
avor but more importantly the alcohol will help to dry the surface. To help in
development of the pellicle. before foods can be smoked they need to air-dry
to form a pellicle or tacky outer skin. The formation of this skin helps protect
the interior of the food and allows the outer surface to better absorb the
avors and color from the smoke.
Hanging foods from hooks or sticks or placing them on racks that allow
them to come in full contact with the air is the best way to aid the pellicle
formation. Foods should be allowed to dry uncovered in the refrigerator or in
a cool room with a fan blowing air over them.
5. Smoke the item.
smoking methods
There are two basic types of smoking that can be applied to food products: coldsmoking or hot-smoking. Cold-smoking can be used as a avor enhancer for items
such as pork chops, beef steaks, chicken breasts, or scallops. They may then be nished
to order by grilling, sauting, baking, or roasting. (Proteins are not set by cold-smoking,
so many foods need to be cooked before serving.)
129
Hot-smoking differs from cold-smoking in that once the foods have been hotsmoked, they are typically safe to eat without any further cooking. However, we generally reheat or further cook foods that have been hot-smoked.
IMPORTANT TEMPERATURES TO REMEMBER
103F/39C: Proteins
begin to set or denature.
145F/63C:
Seafood forcemeat is cooked.
145F/63C:
Federal requirement for cooking pork.
160F/71C:
All proteins are coagulated.
165F/74C: Federal
requirement for cooking all poultry.
cold-smoking
The temperature of the smokehouse is set from 70 to 100F/21 to 38C, with
80F/27C as the average temperature. The closer you can keep the temperature to
40F/4C, the better it will be for the product. This is to keep it out of the temperature
danger zone. The smoke is created from the smoldering of sawdust that is heated. To create the smoke without throwing off a lot of heat, the sawdust is heated by (1) hot coals and
(2) a heat sourcehot plates or a rod that heats up. In this temperature range, foods take
on a rich smoky avor, develop a deep mahogany color, and tend to retain a relatively
moist texture. They are not cooked as a result of the smoking process, however. The time
that it takes to cold-smoke an item may vary depending on the product and the intensity
of the smoky avor that is desired. The time may range from 1 to 18 hours.
Common products that are cold-smoked are salmon, chicken breasts, and seafood.
Some uncooked smoked sausages such as chorizo are cold-smoked. The process also
enhances avor through the addition of smoke to an item that will be nished by some
other cooking method, such as shrimp that may be nished by grilling or stewing.
A slight dehydration of overall texture occurs during cold-smoking; consider the
texture of smoked salmon versus raw salmon. The outer layer of the product will dry
out, creating a dryer surface, and the entire product will be less moist with a dry and/
or slightly tacky texture.
PREPARATION FOR COLD-SMOKING
Trim item and truss, net, or tie as necessary.

Cure or brine item by desired method (optional).
When cure is done, rinse the item or soak it in warm water to remove excess salt.
Form a pellicle by placing the item on a rack over a sheet pan or hanging it in an
area where there is a lot of air movement.
hot-smoking
The temperature of the smokehouse should be 160F/71C for all sausages in casings
and 185F/85C for all solid meats. Sausages in casings are slowly worked up in steps
starting with 120F/49C for about 2 hours, then 130F/54C for about 2 hours, then
130
SMOKING
Smokehouses should maintain

temperatures below 100F/38C
for cold-smoking to prevent the
protein structure of meats, sh, or
poultry from denaturing.
131
Hot-smoking occurs at 185 to

250F/85 to 121C. Hot-smoked
foods are fully cooked, moist, and
avorful.
132
SMOKING
a nal temperature of 180F/82C for the remainder of the time, until the sausages
come up to the temperature they need to be cooked to. At these temperatures, foods
are fully cooked, moist, and avorful. If the smokehouse is allowed to get hotter than
185F/85C, smoked foods will shrink, buckle, or even split. The length of smoking
time depends on the individual product being hot-smoked. All foods should be smoked
to their minimum temperatures to kill bacteria. Common products that are hot-smoked
are ham, turkey, and duck. Sausages in the smoked-cooked category include Kielbasa
Krakowska (page 236).
As well as becoming imbued with the avor of the smoke, during the hot-smoking
process the product is cooked. The nal internal temperatures of cured, hot-smoked
products should be 165F/74C for poultry and 155F/68C for meats. The nal internal temperature of uncured hot-smoked items, such as suitable cuts of beef, is 135F to
139F/57 to 59C for rare. Shellsh is cooked to an internal temperature of 145F/63C.
Fish is cooked to an internal temperature of 135 to 140F/57 to 63C.
PREPARATION FOR HOT-SMOKING
Trim, truss, net, or tie item as necessary.

Cure or brine the item by the desired method (optional).
If the item has been cured, rinse or soak it in warm water to remove excess salt.
other hot-smoking methods

CONVECTION SMOKING
In this method, the item does not need to be dried before going into the smokehouse,
as the smokehouse has a drying cycle with a fan to create a pellicle quickly. Some
smokehouses will run using a program that you can develop for each different item.
PAN SMOKING
This may be done on the stovetop or in the oven with improvised equipment or a special
stovetop smoking pan. Even though the process is short term, it can impart a heavy
smoke avor. A drawback of this method is the possibility of uneven avor or doneness.
SMOKE ROASTING
Pit roasting or barbecue are other names for this method, which uses temperatures
of 250F/121C and above. Items brown and become fully cooked while undergoing
this process. Equipment may be improvised by placing wood chips on the heating element of a barbecue or grill, or by producing smoke in the bottom of an oven. In addition to smoldering hardwood logs, chips, or dust, dried herb stems and/or leaves, dried
citrus peel, or tea leaves may be used to produce smoke, alone or in combination with
sugar. Peanut shells are used to produce the unique avor of Smitheld ham.
133
Requiring only two disposable aluminum pans, a rack, sawdust, and a heat source, pan smoking is a simple way to give a
smoky avor to foods without an expensive smokehouse.
When pan smoking, you must carefully control the smoke

to give the nal product a complex, smoke-enhanced avor
that is not too bitter.
Smoke Roasting (Foil Pan Method)

Setup for Smoke Roasting
Tight-fitting lid
Food product
Wire rack on
aluminum balls
Sawdust
Heat source
134
SMOKING
smokehouse preparation
how a smokehouse works
Below is a simplied diagram of how a smokehouse works for both cold- and hotsmoking. Many of the larger smokehouses are computer programmed as to time and
temperature.
woods for smoking
Most hardwood produces a good smoke avor, but soft woods give off a pitch that
coats foods with a thick sticky lm. Soft or resinous woods should never be used; they
will either are up and burnand produce no smokeor add too much color to the
product and impart a bitter taste. They are also high in creosote resin, which may
cause cancer. Thus, hard fruit or nut woods are preferred.
Each wood imparts a slightly different avor of its own. Although much is according to your personal taste, instruction manuals and recipe books for smokehouses will
offer a guide to which wood works the best with a variety of meats, poultry, sh, and
vegetables. Hickory is the most common wood used to achieve a good color and avor.
Apple, cherry, mesquite, and alder wood are other popular woods used. Other items
commonly used for smoking are dry herbs and spices. Peanut shells and jasmine and a
variety of other teas are used in Asian cooking.
Exhaust vent
Smokehouse setup
Hangers or
racks for
products
Wood chip,
shaving
supply
The smokehouse
may have an
additional
heating element
for maintaining
temperature for
hot smoking
Heating
element for
producing
smoke from
wood
Smoke generator
Smokehouse
135
Wood is available in sawdust, chip or nugget, and chunk form; use the form
recommended by the manufacturer of the smokehouse. Woods should be purchased
from a reputable purveyor to ensure they are free of contaminants such as oil or
chemicals. Never use pressure-treated wood because it may contain arsenic or other
toxic compounds.
creating the smoke

Smoky res are created by controlling oxygen: a decrease in oxygen causes wood to
smolder and smoke. The addition of moisture through the use of damp products will
cause them to smolder rather than burn.
smoking the food
It is recommended to cure all items that are to be cold-smoked because of the possibility of botulism. Items that are hot-smoked may be left uncured if desired. The
product can be air-dried further if a drier product is desired. An example of an item
that may be air-dried longer is beef jerky in order to give it its texture.
The type of item will dictate how to place it in the smokehouse. For example,
large cuts of salmon or other items that cannot bear their own weight are placed on
racks, while items such as sausages and bacon should be hung on a sausage stick or
on hooks.
Smoke food until the desired color and avor are achieved. Be sure to refrigerate
and store everything properly afterward.
FOUR STEPS IN
PREVENTING FOODBORNE ILLNESS
THROUGHOUT
THE SMOKING
PROCEDURE
1. CLEAN: Wash
hands and surface
often.
2. SEPARATE: Dont
cross contaminate.
3. COOK: Cook
to proper
temperatures.
4. CHILL: Refrigerate
promptly.
136
special considerations for

smoking sh
In addition to the basic safety considerations discussed on page 128, sh to be smoked
requires some special handling.
evisceration
Fish must be eviscerated in a separate area (from produce or poultry); it should have
its own sink and be washed thoroughly.
brining
Fish species should not be brined together, to avoid any cross contamination. Brining
or dry salting in excess of 4 hours must take place at a temperature of 38F/3C or
less. Salt concentration and period of time must be adequate to ensure salt penetration to give a water phase salt (WPS) of 2.5 percent. The determination of water
phase salt must be done on the thickest piece of sh.
SMOKING
characteristics of woods and the foods they match

WOOD
CHARACTERISTICS
FOOD MATCH
NOTES
HICKORY
Pungent, smoky, bacon-like

avor
Pork; chicken; beef; wild

game; cheese
Most widely used product
PECAN
Rich; more subtle than hickory

but similar in taste
Pork; chicken; lamb; sh;

cheese
Burns cool, so ideal for

very low-heat smoking
MESQUITE
Sweeter, more delicate avor

than hickory
Beef; most vegetables
Tends to burn hot, so use

carefully
ALDER
Delicate avor that enhances

lighter meats
Salmon, swordsh,
sturgeon, other sh;
chicken; pork
OAK
Forthright but pleasant avor
Beef items like brisket;

poultry; pork
Blends well with a variety

of toughness/tenderness
and juiciness and has
medium avor
MAPLE
Mildly smoky, somewhat

sweet avor
Ham, bacon; poultry;

vegetables
Try mixing with corncobs
CHERRY
Slightly sweet, fruity avor
Poultry; game birds; pork
This is mild and fruity.
APPLE
Slightly sweet but denser

fruity avor
Beef; poultry; game birds;

pork such as ham
PEACH OR PEAR
Slightly sweet, woodsy avor
Poultry; game birds; pork
GRAPEVINES
Aromatic, similar to fruit

woods
Turkey, chicken; beef
WINE BARREL CHIPS
Wine and oak avors
Beef; turkey; cheese
A avorful novelty that

smells wonderful, too
SEAWEED
Tangy and smoky avors
Lobster, crab, shrimp,

mussels, clams
Wash and dry in sun

before use
HERBS, SPICES,
Vegetables; cheese; small

pieces of meat (lighter and
thin-cut meats; sh steaks
and llets; kebabs)
(bay
leaves, rosemary,
mint, oregano,
whole nutmeg,
cinnamon sticks, or
lemon peels, garlic;
jasmine, other teas;
peanut shells)
AROMATICS
Source: Weber, http://www.weber.com/Recipes/Tips/Detail.aspx?tid=5
137
the smoking process
hot-smoking
The sh should be arranged to facilitate complete smoking of all product surfaces.
The internal temperature of the sh in the smokehouse must reach a minimum of
145F/63C and be held for at least 30 minutes. Temperature probes should be inserted in the thickest portion of at least three sh, and the lowest temperature reading recorded on the process record (see Record Keeping, below). The temperature
should be recorded at least three times during smoking.
cold-smoking
The sh should be arranged to facilitate complete smoking of all product surfaces.
The smokehouse temperature should be maintained at a temperature no higher than
50F/10C for a period not exceeding 24 hours, or no higher than 90F/32C for a
period not exceeding 20 hours. The smokehouse temperature should be recorded at
least three times during smoking (see Record Keeping, below).
cooling
Following smoking, sh must be cooled to 50F/10C within 5 hours and to 33F/1C
within 12 hours, and maintained at that temperature until sold.
packaging
Smoked sh can only be sold air or vacuum packaged and must be labeled in bold
print Keep Refrigerated at 38F [3C]or Below.
record keeping
Production records must be kept on each batch of sh, showing the name of the product, date processed, and container size and number of containers, if applicable. A record must be kept in ink on the temperature of thawing, brining, smoking, cooling, and
storage of each batch of sh processed. The record must also show the duration of
smoking. Records must also show the name(s), address(es), and lot code(s) of initial sale.
138
SMOKING
beef jerky
Once a necessary provision, especially for those who needed lightweight, nutritious road food, beef jerky is now enjoyed primarily for its intense, robust avor. It makes a great snack food, and is wonderful pub or bar food. This version
of beef jerky is tender enough to cut into a garnish or avoring ingredient for
sauces, pasta dishes, and salads.
MAKES APPROXIMATELY 12 OZ/340 G
3 lb/1.36 kg beef top

round (see Note)
1. Cut the beef across the grain into thin strips about 2 by 8 by in/5 by 20
cm by 6 mm.
1 cup/240 mL strong
brewed black coffee
2.
1 cup/240 mL
1 cup/240 mL ketchup
5 oz/142 g honey
cup/120 mL cider vinegar
2 tbsp/30 mL chili powder
2 tsp/10 mL sweet paprika
2 tsp/10 mL red
pepper akes
1 tsp/5 mL mediumground black pepper
tsp/2.50 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
Combine and mix all of the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Transfer to
resealable plastic bags and marinate the sliced meat for 24 hours.
3.
4.
5.
Drain the meat well and place in a single layer on a wire rack over a sheet pan.
Place the meat in a 200F/93C oven. Turn the meat over after hour.
Check the meat at the end of 2 hours. It should be 90 percent done (see Note).
If using an oven, you want the meat to be dry but have a little moisture left.
6.
Place the meat on racks and cold-smoke at 90F/32C for approximately 15

minutes. Hickory wood or saw dust is a good choice, but any type of hardwood will
do depending on the avor you wish to attain. Smoke should be a medium intensity; if there is too much smoke, the jerky could develop a bitter avor. Each person
will determine the amount of smoke avor they prefer on the product. If you want
to have a more smoky avor, then simply keep the jerky longer in the smokehouse.
7.
Remove the meat from the racks, cool, and store in a plastic container with
a tight-tting lid. The beef jerky may be stored for up to 2 to 4 weeks in a refrigerator or frozen for later use.
Note: Buffalo, venison, or other red game meat can be used instead of the beef. Most lean
cuts, such as leg, are appropriate.
The meat can be done in a dehydrator.
Variations
The meat can be placed in the marinade (step 2) and frozen right away. Later, thaw it
overnight under refrigeration, and it will be ready for cooking. This is a good method if the
process has caught you over the weekend.
The beef jerky may also be dried in a food dryer after draining (step 3). Follow the manufacturers directions.
139
dry-cured beef jerky

MAKES 1 LB 8 OZ/680 G
3 lb/1.36 kg beef top

round (see Notes)
1 cups/300 mL
kosher salt
2 tsp/10 mL pickling spice, ground
1 tsp/5 mL celery
seeds, crushed
1 tsp/5 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
1 tsp/5 mL yellow
mustard seeds
tsp/2.50 mL cayenne
cup/80 mL soy sauce
cup/80 mL
1. Cut the beef across the grain into thin strips about 2 by 8 by in/5 by 20
cm by 6 mm.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine the salt, sugar, pickling spice, celery seeds, pepper, mustard seeds, onion and garlic powders, and cayenne to make the cure
mix.
3. Rub the cure mix well into both sides of the meat strips. Place the meat on a
rack and let cure for 3 hours under refrigeration.
4.
5.
Rinse the meat strips and lightly blot them dry with paper towels.
In a mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Add the
meat strips and coat with the sauce mixture.
6. Place the meat in a single layer on lightly oiled racks over sheet pans and
air-dry in a refrigerator where there is a lot of air movement. Dry the meat overnight, or until a pellicle forms.
7. Place the meat in a 200F/93C oven for about 1 hour. It should be 90 percent done. Take a piece of meat and break it or taste it. It should be dry with a
slight amount of moisture. You want to avoid its being very dry.
8. Cold-smoke the meat for 2 hours at 100F/38C or lower. Hickory wood or
sawdust is a good choice, but any type of hard wood will do, depending on the
avor you wish to attain. Smoke intensity should be about medium, so you get a
light smoke avor on the product. If a stronger avor of smoke is desired, then
keep the meat in the smoker longer.
9. Place the meat in a well-ventilated area at room temperature to dry for 4 to
5 hours.
10. Remove the meat from the racks and store in a plastic container with a
tight-tting lid. The beef jerky may be stored for 2 to 4 weeks in a refrigerator or
frozen for later use.
140
SMOKING
Notes: Buffalo, venison, or other red game meat can be used instead of the beef. Most
lean cuts, such as leg, are appropriate.
The length of time needed to dry depends on the amount of jerky being made and the size
of the strips, as well as variables such as temperature, humidity, and air movement.
Variations
The meat can also be placed in the sauce mixture (step 5) and frozen right away. Later,
thaw it overnight under refrigeration, and it will be ready for drying (step 6). This is a good
method if the process has caught you over the weekend.
The beef jerky may also be dried in a food dryer following air-drying (step 6). Follow the
manufacturers directions.
141
smoked dry-cured sh
MAKES 1 LB/454 G
FISH
2 to 3lb/1.13 kg to
1.36 kg salmon
or
2 lb/1.13 kg bluesh
or
4 to 5 ea trout (see
Variation)
CURE MIX

1 lb/454 g brown sugar
2 tbsp/30 mL onion powder
2 tbsp/30 mL crushed
bay leaves
2 tbsp/30 mL
crushed allspice
2 tbsp/30 mL ground mace
2 tbsp/30 mL ground cloves
1.
2.
3.
Clean and trim the sh of choice. Score the skin.

In a stainless steel bowl, combine and mix all of the ingredients for the cure mix.
Place a large piece of cheesecloth on a sheet pan and spread a small amount
of cure mix on the cheesecloth.
4.
Place the sh skin side down on the cure and pack the remainder of the cure on
top of sh. (The layer should be slightly thinner where the llet tapers to the tail.)
5. Wrap the sh tightly in the cheesecloth and cure for 6 hours under
refrigeration.
6. Rinse the sh under warm water to wash off the cure. Blot the sh dry with
paper towels.
7. Dry the sh on a rack over a sheet pan, uncovered, in the refrigerator for a
minimum of 6 hours for the pellicle to form.
8.
Cold-smoke the sh for 2 to 3 hours. Apple and cherry are good woods to
use to achieve a mild avor. For the correct temperature refer to the cold smoking
process discussed on page 130. The range of time will depend on how strong of
a smoke avor you want o achieve. Smoke intensity should be around medium to
medium high; just be careful not to get too strong of smoke avor or it will leave a
bitter taste in the meat product.
9. The sh may now be chilled, wrapped, and stored under refrigeration for up
to 2 weeks.
Variation
1.
If smoking whole trout, pack the cure inside the trout as well as outside, and cure for 3
hours.
2.
Rinse the trout under warm water. Blot the sh dry with paper towel.
3.
Dry the trout, uncovered, on a rack in the refrigerator until a pellicle forms.
4.
Cold-smoke the trout for 4 to 6 hours. For the correct temperature refer to the coldsmoking process discussed on page 130. The range of time will depend on how strong of a
smoke avor you want o achieve. Smoke intensity should be around medium to medium high;
just be careful not to get too strong of smoke avor or it will leave a bitter taste in the meat
product.
5.
Finish the trout by hot-smoking at 185F/85C until the esh is rm and an internal
temperature of 135F/57C is reached.
6.
142
The trout may be chilled, wrapped, and stored under refrigeration for up to 2 weeks.
SMOKING
smoked maple-brined
poultry
MAKES 1 EA. 3 TO 5 LB/1 KG 360 G TO 2KG 268 G
POULTRY
5 to 6 lb/2.27 to
2.72 kg duck
or
3 to 4 lb/1.36 to
1.81 kg chicken
or
4 to 5 each/.81 to
2.26 kg Cornish hen
or
2 to 3 lb/.91 to
1.36 kg pheasant
1.
Place the poultry of choice in the brine and brine overnight in a covered
container under refrigeration.
2.
3.
Rinse the poultry with warm water and blot it dry with paper towels.
Place the poultry on a rack over a sheet pan. Refrigerate and air-dry for
about 3 hours, until a pellicle is formed.
4.
Hot-smoke the poultry to an internal temperature of 165F/74C. The

smoke intensity should be medium to medium high, depending on how strong
of a avor you are looking to achieve. Cherry, apple, and maple woods can be
used for smoking these products.
5. Serve immediately or cool, wrap, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. The poultry may also be frozen for later use.
Note: All poultry should be washed, with excess fat discarded, and trussed to hold shape.
3 qt/3.36 L Maple Brine

for Poultry (page 117)
The wing should be locked behind the back. For the larger items like the duck, you might
inject about 10 percent of the total weight in brine solution into the thickest area of the
product and still submerged in the brine solution.
143
smoked dry-cured
oily sh
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML CURE MIX/ONE 2 TO3 LB/907 TO 1KG 360 G FISH
3 lb/1.36 kg salmon, sturgeon, whitesh, or bluesh

CURE MIX
2 cups/600 mL
kosher salt
1 cups/300 mL
brown sugar
6 tbsp/90 mL cracked
black pepper
8 tsp/40 mL ground allspice
1.
Trim the sh of all fat. Make sure that all of the pin bones have been removed and that the ns are trimmed off. Score the skin.
2.
3.
Combine the salt, sugar, pepper, and allspice to make the cure mix.
Place a large piece of cheesecloth on a sheet pan and spread half of the
cure mix on top of the cheesecloth. Place the sh skin side down on top of
the cure mix.
4. Brush the sh with the lemon juice and sprinkle the remainder of the
cure on the sh. (The layer should be slightly thinner where the llet tapers to
the tail.)
5. Dry-cure the sh for 6 to 10 hours under refrigeration. The amount of time
is determined by how dry the product should be. It needs to be cured for at least
6 hours to lose moisture so bacteria will not survive.
6.
Rinse the sh under warm water to wash off the cure mix. Blot the sh dry
with paper towels.
7. Dry the sh in a single layer on a rack, uncovered, under refrigeration for 6

hours to form the pellicle.
8. If using salmon, cold-smoke for 2 hours under a light to medium smoke intensity to nish it. For the correct temperature to use, refer to the cold smoking
process discussed on page 130.
9. If using sturgeon, whitesh, or bluesh, hot-smoke at 160 to 165F/71 to
74C for about 1 hour, until it reaches an internal temperature of 135F/57C.
Smoke intensity should be about medium.
144
SMOKING
smoked shrimp or
scallops
1.
5 lb/2.27 kg shrimp
or scallops
Peel and devein the shrimp. If using scallops, remove the tough muscle tabs.
Place the shrimp or scallops in a nonreactive container.
6 cups/1.44 L Brine
for Scallops or
Shrimp (page 116)
2.
Pour enough brine over the shrimp or scallops to completely submerge

them.
3a. If using large shrimp or sea scallops, brine for 1 hour under refrigeration,
covered.
3b.
Remove the shrimp or scallops from the brine, rinse, and spread on a rack
over a sheet pan in one layer. Air-dry under refrigeration to form a pellicle.
3c.
Cold-smoke for 3 to 4 hours. Apple and cherry are good woods to use to
achieve a mild avor. Smoke intensity should be about medium. For the correct
temperature to use, refer to the cold smoking process discussed on page 130.
4a. If using bay scallops or small shrimp, brine for 20 minutes under refrigeration, covered.
4b.
Remove the shrimp or scallops from the brine, rinse, and spread on a nemesh rack over a sheet pan in one layer. Air-dry under refrigeration to form
a pellicle.
4c.
Cold-smoke the shrimp or scallops for 1 hours. Smoke intensity should

be about medium. For the correct temperature to use, refer to the cold smoking
process discussed on page 130.
5. Cook the shrimp or scallops by roasting, sauting, or grilling until slightly

opaque in the center, 5 to 10 minutes.
6. The shrimp or scallops are now ready to be used immediately. They may
also be cooled, wrapped, and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Presentation idea: Grill, saut, poach, stew in a sauce, or prepare the shrimp/scallops
according to other needs.
145
forcemeats
chapter seven
We will consider the classical methods of production of these products
and explore more modern styles and items.
Terrine molds, left to right: threepound enameled cast iron, twopound enameled cast iron, pt en
crote mold, triangular mold, halfcylinder mold, trapezoidal mold,
cylindrical mold
148
FORCEMEATS
terrine molds
Terrines are traditionally understood to be forcemeat mixtures baked in an earthenware mold with a tight-tting lid. This preparation gets its name from its association
with the material used to make the mold, once exclusively earthenware of unglazed
clay or terra-cotta. Today, terrine molds are produced from materials such as stainless
steel, aluminum, ceramics, enameled cast iron, ovenproof plastic, or glazed earthenware. These materials are more durable and more sanitary than the unglazed earthenware once favored by charcutiers.
Terrine molds come in any number of shapes, including triangle, half circle, and
trapezoidal. These materials and shapes offer the garde manger chef an effective way
to impress the guest.
forcemeat preparations
Forcemeat is a mixture of meat, poultry, or sh, ground or pured with some form
of fat along with seasonings and optional binders. One of the most signicant garde
manger preparations, forcemeat or farce (French for stufng) is used as the base for
pts, terrines, galantines, and sausages.
Forcemeats historically were time-consuming preparations requiring laborious
grinding and straining of meat, seasonings, and fat through metal sieves in a chilled
atmosphere. Modern kitchen equipment today permits these preparations to be done
in a fraction of the time.
The rst three styles of forcemeats (country-style, straight, and gratin) we talk
about, starting on page 157 are the primary forcemeats. These three products are
made using the classical method, which produces delicious forcemeat that is heavy
and fatty. These products are made using equal amounts of fat and meat (a ratio of 1
part meat to 1 part fat), yielding a product with great taste and a lot of avor, as much
of the avor comes from fat. Recently, forcemeats have undergone a change more tting to the cuisine of today, making them lighter; the fat content was reduced, making
the new basic ratio 2 parts meat to 1 part fat. This creates a healthier, lighter product.
In doing so, however, the charcutier needs to work that much harder to develop avor
through the addition of aromatics, herbs, seasonings, and spices. With this new ratio,
it also becomes of paramount importance to use the freshest possible products. They
will yield the most avor and have a high moisture content, which is needed to develop the same mouthfeel without the fat, to which people are accustomed. Mousseline is
the fourth forcemeat and its preparation method and classical use of lean meats, such
as poultry breast and sh, naturally make it a lighter forcemeat. The use of eggs and
cream as the binder in this forcemeat further acts to create a lean product. The nal
style, 543 emulsion, is used mostly for sausages and formed forcemeats like olive loaf.
See Emulsion Forcemeats, page 223, in Chapter 8. With any of these four forcemeat
preparations, simply by changing the avors that are added through the selection of
the main protein, the aromatics, herbs, and spices, you can create a forcemeat than
can be used in a variety of different preparations.
149
CAUSES OF A BAD FORCEMEAT
To ensure the creation of forcemeat with a smooth texture and mouthfeel, both the
ingredients and equipment must be kept chilled, around 28 to 30F/2 to 1C. To
chill the equipment, submerge it in ice water. Cold equipment will prevent the meat
from getting too warm during processing.
All the blades for the grinder and all the blades for the food processor need to
be very sharp so the meat can be cut quickly and neatly. Furthermore, the grinder
equipment needs to be assembled correctly or it will not cut the meat properly.
If you cook the product too long, or the cooking temperature is too high, your
forcemeat will come out improperly.
Finally, you have to have the correct ratio of lean meat to fat for the forcemeat (see
Lean-to-Fat Ratios, page 151, and Forcemeat Ratios, page 155).
SIGNS OF A BROKEN FORCEMEAT
You can see problem signs in the forcemeat when you make a taste tester. When you
look and see:
a lot of fat coming out from the forcemeat, or
a lot of moisture coming out from the forcemeat,
you will lose the consistency, along with the volume and avor in the forcemeat.
four basic components of a classical forcemeat
1.
2.
PREDOMINANT MEAT: The predominant meat used in the forcemeat is typically

a tougher, less tender meat that has more cartilage and more avor. The
predominant meat determines what the forcemeat will taste like.
SECONDARY MEAT: The secondary meat is most often lean pork, chicken, or veal.
It should meet the following criteria:
Neutral in avor
High in protein and moisture
Binds well
Has a low cost and a high availability
3.
150
FAT: Use
only fresh pork fatback without skin. Pork fat is used for avoring; it has
a neutral avor, but it blends well with other avors. Make sure the consistency
of the fat is buttery and smooth. Pork fat is used over other possible alternatives
because of its availability and low cost. The three forcemeat preparations
use some cream in the panada to add moisture and mouthfeel. Cream in the
mousseline forcemeat is used as fat instead of pork fat.
Fat such as bacon, fatback, and caul fat is also used to line the terrine molds
before baking, although in more modern terrines, you will see more thinly sliced
ham, thinly sliced prosciutto, or just plastic wrap to line the mold. Lining the
molds not only gives the forcemeat a nice look on the outside but also helps the
forcemeat to come out of the mold much easier.
FORCEMEATS
4.
SEASONINGS: Seasonings
such as salt will help draw out the moisture and

protein from the meat and ensure a good bind. Carefully measured herbs and
ground spices create the avor in the product. Seasonings should complement
the main avor of the meat used without overpowering it. In some cases we
saut items like onions, shallots, and garlic to further develop the avor; in
doing so we need to make sure the cooked product is cold before placing in
the forcemeats. Items like wine, brandy, or grain-based spirits can be used to
enhance avor and aroma. Colorful garnishes allow the chef to add eye appeal
and develop additional texture and avor.
LEAN-TO-FAT RATIOS
Most contemporary recipes will call for pork fat (jowl fat or fatback) or heavy cream.
Numbers appearing after meats in recipes refer to the ratio of lean to fat by weight. For
example, 70/30 would be an approximate ratio of 70 percent meat to 30 percent fat,
by weight. A usual mix of jowl fat or fatback with lean meat, indicated as 50/50, is half
lean and half fat by weight. This is used in the sausage forcemeat and not in terrines,
galantines, and pts.
additional elements for successful forcemeats

In addition to these four basic components, other processes and ingredients are important to the success of a forcemeat.
primary binding
Primary binding is the cold processing of meat, fat, and water by grinding, mixing,
and taming. Salt is also added to bring out the myosin to help it bind.
secondary binders
Secondary binders are not always needed. The most common one is eggs.
Secondary binders from left to right:

eggs, heavy cream, bread crumbs
151
panadas
A panada is a starch product used to absorb and hold moisture and ensure that the
product is not dry. All panadas have a farinaceous base to stabilize the fat of the forcemeat by absorbing the natural juices when cooked, thus causing a swelling without
separation. If a panada is needed, it should never comprise more than 20 percent of
the total volume of the nished product, garnish included.
The four types of panadas used in forcemeats are:
Bread crumbs soaked in milk

Flour or pte choux dough
Riced cooked potato
Pured cooked rice
progressive grinding
In progressive grinding, chunks of
meat are ground by passing rst
through a coarse plate, then a
medium plate, and nally a ne plate.
This process involves grinding meat through a chilled meat grinder, starting with the
largest plate rst, then progressing to smaller and smaller holed plates. When performing this task, it is very important to chill the meat between grindings.
152
FORCEMEATS
garnishes for forcemeats

Different types of food products are used as garnish for forcemeats; they must be
compatible with the types of meat used. Pistachio nuts, dried fruit, diced ham, tongue,
and trufes are some examples.
There are two types of garnishes used in the forcemeats: random and inlay.
Random garnish means that a product or products uniform in size are mixed
into the forcemeat and wherever they end up, that is where they will be in the
nished product.
Inlay garnish simply means a garnish is placed in a specic spot in the terrine
or pt.
Laying garnishes into a terrine as it

is being lled produces a centered
dispersion, also known as inlay
(left), while folding or stirring garnishes into a forcemeat produces a
random dispersion (right).
153
temperature
To maintain the water-bath temperature at 160 to 170F/71 to 77C, when cooking forcemeat you should cook it at 300F/149C in a conventional oven so that it will
hold at that constant temperature. When cooking a terrine, you can avoid hot spots by
using multiple layers of paper towels under the mold.
testing forcemeats
Cook a taste tester of the forcemeat to check the bind, moisture, and avor. Wrap a
small amount of forcemeat in plastic wrap, secure the ends, make sure it is tight so it
holds together, and poach in a 170F/77C water bath for about 10 minutes, or until
it reaches the proper internal temperature for the product.
Wrap the test portion in plastic

wrap and tie the ends securely
with string.
Poach the test portion to the

appropriate internal temperature,
then allow it to cool to servicing
temperature (cold).
The test portion will not taste or feel

exactly like the nished product, but
you can train your palate to evaluate
quality, seasoning, and texture.
developing a forcemeat recipe

The process for developing a forcemeat recipe is relatively simple. First, select and trim
the meats. Next, determine the ratio of predominant meat, secondary meat, pork fat,
and (if necessary) panada. After that, select the internal garnish and seasonings you will
use. Finally, select the mold you wish to use, as well as the yield you want, to determine
the size and form of the nal productfor example, galantine, terrine, or pt.
154
FORCEMEATS
The table below shows different ratios that can be used in making galantines, terrines, or pts. The ratios depend on the strength (avor) of the predominant meat.
The stronger the avor, the lower the percentage used for the predominant meat. If
the predominant meat is very mild, use a larger percentage of it. This chart will give
you a good starting point in developing a forcemeat recipe.
forcemeat ratios
PREDOMINANT
MEAT
SECONDARY
MEAT
PORK FAT
PANADA*
GARNISH
33%
33%
33%
1015%
1015%
40%
30%
30%
1015%
1015%
50%
25%
25%
1015%
1015%
60%
20%
20%
1015%
1015%
*If a panada is needed, it should never comprise more than 20 percent of the total volume of the nished product,
garnish included.
1.
Figure out the volume in weight of the terrine mold by lling it with water and
then weighing the water. A pints a pound the world around is the saying;
1 pint of water (2 cups/960 mL) will weigh 1 lb/454 g.
2.
Subtract the percentage of panada and garnish you wish to use from the total
volume of the nished product.
3.
Divide the remainder of the weight by the ratios for predominant meat,
secondary meat, and fat.
4.
5.
Add seasonings and spices, depending on the avor you wish to achieve.
Follow your method for the particular pt or terrine you are making.
styles of forcemeat
There are ve major styles of forcemeat:
Country-style or campagne
Straight method
Gratin style
Mousseline style
5/4/3 emulsion (used for sausage production)
155
Country-style forcemeats are hearty FORCEMEATS

156
in avor and coarse in texture.
country-style or
campagne forcemeat
This is probably the oldest type of forcemeat and is basically coarse sausage meat
cooked in a terrine mold lined with thin slices of fatback, bacon, or caul fat.
1 part pork (lean)
1 part predominant
meat (lean)
1 part pork fat
part liver (usually from
the predominant meat)
part mirepoix (lightly
caramelized, cooled)
tsp/1.25 mL Insta Cure
No. 1 (per 2 lb/907 g
forcemeat; optional)
Panada, up to 20%,
as needed
1 medium egg (per 2
lb/907 g forcemeat)
Pork fatback, sliced
thinly, for lining terrine
mold, as needed
Aspic, as needed
1.
2.
Cube all meats and fat, about 1-in/3-cm cubes.
Mix the meats with the mirepoix and Insta Cure (if using). Marinate for 6
hours under refrigeration.
3. Grind the mixture twice through a chilled grinder using a coarse plate
(8 in/9 mm).
4.
5.
Weigh the mixture and determine the amount of panada and eggs to add.
Remove one third of the meat mixture, combine with the egg, and pure in
a food processor, keeping the product cold over a water and ice bath.
6. Recombine the meat, add the panada, and mix well. Chill in a water and ice
bath or in refrigerator.
7.
8.
Test the forcemeat for avor and consistency. Adjust as needed.
9.
Pour off the excess fat and replace with aspic. Chill.
Fill desired fatback-lined mold with mixture and bake in a water bath to an
internal temperature of 145F/63C, depending on the meat; if using poultry,
the product will need to be cooked to 160F/71C, and it will carry over to
165F/74C to meet health regulations.
157
country-style or compagne forcemeat, continued
Mise en place for a country-style forcemeat, including meats,

panada, seasonings, and garnishes
158
FORCEMEATS
Add the panada to the ground meat to help hold the

nished product together after cooking.
straight-method
forcemeat
This forcemeat combines pork and pork fat with a predominant meat in equal
parts through a process of progressive grinding (see page 152) and emulsication.
1 part pork (lean)
1 part predominant
meat (lean)
1 part pork fat
part shallots
(sweated, cooled)
Seasonings and
herbs, as needed
tsp/1.25 mL Insta
Cure No. 1 (per 2 lb/907
g forcemeat; optional)
1 medium egg (per
2 lb/907g forcemeat)
2 to 4 oz/60 to 120 mL
heavy cream (optional)
Garnish, as needed
1. Cube the meats and fat, about 1 in/3 cm in size, and add the shallots, seasonings, and Insta Cure (if using).
2.
3.
Mix and let marinate 6 hours under refrigeration.
4.
5.
Chill the ground meat mixture.
6.
7.
Test for avor and consistency.
Grind through a chilled grinder using rst a coarse plate (8 in/9 mm), then
a medium plate ( in/6 mm).
Combine the meat mixture with the egg(s) and cream (if using), and pure in
a food processor.
Use for terrines, galantines, pts en crote, or other preparations, adding

garnish as desired.
159
straight-forcement method,
continued
RIGHT: Mise en place for straight

forcemeat, including meat, panada,
seasonings, and garnishes
Adding heavy cream to a straight

forcemeat results in a smoother
texture and a richer avor.
Once thoroughly processed, the

mixture should have a homogenous
texture and a slightly tacky feel.
Straight forcement nished product
Finished product
161
Finished gratin forcemeat
162
FORCEMEATS
gratin forcemeat
1 part predominant
meat (lean)
1 part pork fatback
1 part pork (lean)
2 medium eggs (per
1 lb/454 g forcemeat)
Seasonings and
herbs, as needed
tsp/1.25 mL Insta Cure
No. 1 (per 2 lb/907 g
forcemeat; optional)
Garnish, as needed
1. Saut the predominant meat quickly. This will give it some color, but do not
cook it completely.
2. Blanch the fatback for 30 seconds in boiling water. Cool it. When cool, mix
it with the meats and chill.
3.
4.
Cube all the meats and fat. Chill.
5.
6.
Chill the ground meat mixture.
7.
8.
Test for avor and consistency.
Grind through a chilled grinder using a coarse plate (8 in/9 mm), then a
medium plate ( in/6 mm).
Combine meat mixture with the eggs, seasonings, and Insta Cure (if using)
and pure in a food processor.
Use for terrines, galantines, pts en crote, or other preparations, adding

garnish as desired.
Mise en place for gratin forcemeat,

including seared meat, panada, seasonings, and garnishes
Prepared gratin forcemeat will

have a homogenous texture and
feel slightly tacky.
163
mousseline-style
forcemeat
This is the quickest forcemeat to make. It is typically used for lean, light meats or
sh. Usually only one variety of meat is used (although mixtures work well) and
unwhipped heavy cream is used as the source of fat. The cream is used to adjust
the consistency as required by the type of meat or sh used. This forcemeat is
quite stable during cooking since the fat is already emulsied in the cream. The
area of caution comes in making sure you dont overwork the forcemeat in the
food processor once the cream has been added.
1 lb/454 g lean white
meat or sh
1 large egg (per
1 lb/454 g meat)
Seasonings, as needed
1 cup/240 mL heavy
cream (approx.)
1.
2.
Cube the meat or sh. Chill.
Grind through a chilled grinder using a coarse plate (8 in/9 mm), then a
medium plate ( in/6 mm). Chill.
3. Combine the chilled ground meat mixture with the salt, egg(s), and seasonings. Pure in a food processor. until smooth.
4.
Add the cream slowly and pulse in. An alternative way to do this is to remove
the mixture from the food processor and place it in a mixing bowl over an ice bath,
slowly working the cream into the meat with a rubber spatula or spoon.
5.
6.
Test the mixture for seasoning and consistency; adjust as necessary.

Use for the desired preparations.
Fat contributes greatly to the eating quality of forcemeats. It enhances the avor
and the juiciness. Pork fat is preferred because it is softer, it melts at lower temperature,
and it is easier to chop or grind, and the preferred pork fat is jowl fat. Fatback is used
for forcemeat for terrines, galantines, and pts; jowl fat is used predominantly for
sausage making. U.S. government regulations limit cooked sausage to 30 percent fat.
FAT
Water, in the form of ice, is used to regulate heat generated by machine

friction. This helps keep meat and fat from warming excessively during processing.
WATER
SALT Salt
makes proteins soluble; that is, it draws the water-soluble protein, myosin,
from meat to act as the primary binder. In addition, it adds avor and retards the
growth of bacteria. (See Preserving with Salt, page 73.)
Procedure photos continue on page 166.
164
FORCEMEATS
Mousseline forcemeat around a tenderloin, mousseline pinwheel with chicken

breast, and mousseline piped into a boneless chicken leg
165
mousseline-style forcemeat,
continued
The formula for mousseline forcemeat is 1 lb/454 g lean white meat or seafood, 1 tsp/5 mL
kosher salt, 1 large egg (or egg white for mild-avored products like llet of sole or ounder),
1 cup/240 mL heavy cream, and ground pepper as needed.
Slowly add the cream to the mixture and continue processing.
166
A mousseline should be pressed

through a tamis to ensure that it is
completely smooth.
FORCEMEATS
To blend the mousseline properly,

it is vital to scrape down the bowl
periodically as you process.
emulsied meat
method
Chill all metal equipment that will touch meat/fat products: Temperature control
is important. If possible, chill the meat between grinding and chopping steps to
compensate for the heat generated by grinding.
5 lb/2.27 kg meat
4 lb/1.81 kg fat
3 lb/1.36 kg ice
or cold water
1.
2.
3.
Trim the meat and cut into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Chill or partially freeze.
Cut the jowl fat into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Chill or partially freeze.
Progressively grind the fat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the
ne plate (8 in/3 mm).
4. Mix salt, Insta Cure (see Note), dextrose (if used) and other seasonings
with the meat. Progressively grind the meat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm).
5. Place the meat in a Stephan cutter or other suitable food chopper. Place the
ice on top of the meat.
6. Process the meat in the chopper to a temperature of 30F/1C or lower.
Continue processing until the temperature of the meat rises to 40F/4C.
7. At 40F/4C, add the fat and continue processing until the temperature of
the meat is between 45and 50F/7and 10C.
8.
Add the nonfat dry milk and continue processing until the temperature of
the meat is 58F/14C.
9.
Cook a small amount of the forcemeat, taste and check the binding, and adjust seasoning if necessary.
10.
Process into the desired sausage product.
Note: Not all emulsied forcemeats require Insta Cure No. 1.

167
emulsied meat method, continued
When the mixture reaches 40F/4C, add the ground

fat to the meat.
Continue processing until the mixture forms a stable emulsion

of the lean meat and fat, and the temperature is 45F/7C.
When the temperature reaches 45F/7C, add the

nonfat dry milk, scraping down the bowl periodically as
you continue mixing.
galantines
The term galantine derives from an Old French word, galin, meaning chicken.
Originally, galantines were made exclusively from boned poultry and game birds,
and were stuffed with a forcemeat, tied in the birds natural shape, and often lavishly
decorated. Since deboning poultry is difcult and time consuming, this is a rather
elaborate dish. Today, however, galantines are made from a wide range of products,
including sh, shellsh, and meats. The skin, if available, is used as a casing to hold
the forcemeat. Galantines are often pressed into a cylindrical shape.
cooking and assembly method for galantines
1.
Cut the knuckle bone from the legs and cut the wing at the second joint to allow
the skin to be removed without ripping it. Remove the skin, keeping it as intact
as possible. Make an incision through the skin down the middle of the back
and pull the entire skin away from the bird. Use a small knife to help loosen it,
if necessary, working it carefully not to rip or cut, working the skin loose and
peeling like an old pair of long johns, going around the wing joint and the legs.
You then will need to remove the extra fat and sinew from the skin to ensure it
will be at.
2.
Bone the predominant meat, reserving intact any pieces that will be used for
garnish. All other meat should be cut into dice or strips of the appropriate size
to prepare the forcemeat. The bones and any unusable trim should be used
to prepare a rich stock and reduced to glace to add to forcemeat to give more
avor.
3.
Trim the skin to form a large rectangle. Lay out the skin or other casing for the
galantine on a large cheesecloth or plastic-wrap square. Mound the forcemeat
lengthwise down the rectangles center and position any garnish (for example,
the tenderloin or marinated diced breast meat) as desired. Make into a cylinder
with help from the cheesecloth, then wrap the skin-encased forcemeat tightly in
cheesecloth to form a roulade or cylinder.
4.
Tie the ends with butchers twine and use a strip of cheesecloth to secure it at
even intervals in order to maintain the shape of the cylinder.
5.
Place the galantine on a perforated rack and submerge it in simmering stock. Be

sure that the galantine is completely submerged. Maintain the liquid at an even
simmer throughout the cooking time, generally 1 to 1 hours, until an internal
temperature of 150F/66C for meats, 140F/60C for sh, or 165F/74C for
poultry has been reached.
6.
Let the galantine cool overnight in the cooking liquid. The next day, rewrap the
galantine in cheesecloth or plastic wrap. This will hold it in a cylindrical shape for
storage. If cheesecloth or plastic wrap has been used, remove the casing. Rewrap
the galantine in fresh plastic wrap, reroll it to form a tight cylinder, and refrigerate.
169
Make an incision along the backbone and carefully pull and cut
away the skin from the meat, keeping the skin intact.
Lay the skin out on cheesecloth or

plastic wrap.
Layer a garnish on the skin, then

pipe on the prepared forcemeat
lling.
Roll the galantine carefully around

the forcemeat. The skin should just
overlap itself, forming a seam.
After rolling, secure the galantine

by tying each end with butchers
twine and secure the middle by
tying two bands of cheesecloth.
To keep the galantine submerged

during poaching, weight it with
a small plate and lower into the
poissonier.
170
FORCEMEATS
Fill the poissonier with stock, cover,

and poach the galantine to the
appropriate internal temperature.
Remove the cheesecloth or plastic

wrap, then tightly rewrap the galantine to produce an even density
after it has cooked.
Slice the galantine to serve.
pt
Pt is a form of spreadable paste, usually made from meat and served with toast as
a starter. Pt is a French word that designates a mixture of minced meat and fat. It is
generally made from nely ground or a chunky mixture of meats such as the liver of
chicken, pigs, ducks, geese, or calves; and avored with herbs, spices, wild mushrooms,
wine, brandy, and often additional fat, vegetables, and in some cases, black trufes
from Prigord, France. Pt may be cooked in a crust as a pie or in a loaf, in which
case it is called pt en crote. The most famous pt is probably pt de foie gras, which is
made with fattened livers from force-fed geese.
Pts have been the staple of French chefs. They provide an opportunity to display the imagination and skill of an ambitious chef. Pts are delicate, ne, exquisite
specialties that require great culinary skill and passion to create.
working with foie gras

Upon receiving the foie gras, it is important to inspect it. This is an expensive product,
whatever grade you buy. So take the time to be certain that you are getting the quality
you are paying for. First, check that the packaging is still intact. Any rips or punctures
may have damaged the foie gras. Weigh the foie gras yourself, and inspect it carefully
for any unexpected imperfections.
Prepare the foie gras for refrigerated storage. Set the wrapped foie gras on a bed
of crushed ice in a perforated hotel pan, set inside a standard hotel pan. Pack more
ice around the liver and keep this assembly in the refrigerator until you are ready to
prepare the foie gras.
171
Terrines from left to right: Terrine of

Foie Gras and Butternut Squash,
Smoked Chicken and Roasted
Fennel Terrine, Chicken Pt en
Crote, Gran Mere (gratin-style
forcemeat), Chilled Eminc of
Chicken and Vegetables
Temper the foie gras before cleaning by leaving out at room temperature for a few
hours, so it becomes very soft and pliable. Ot you may place the foie gras in the packaging into water that is around 70 to 80F/21 to 27C for about 1 hour, or until soft to
work with. for at least 2 hours. Separate the foie gras into lobes and remove the veins.
Starting from the top of the lobe, where the veins are the thickest, pull out the veins, using
tweezers, the tip of a knife, and/or your ngertips. When the foie gras has been cleaned,
it is then soaked in salted ice water and/or milk. Marinate the foie gras according to the
specic recipe and proceed with the recipe instructions to complete the foie gras terrine.
healthy terrines and pts

A popular trend is making terrines that do not contain forcemeat, but instead, use the
natural juices from the meat product along with herbs to help hold the terrine together.
For example, take chicken breasts, season them with salt, place them in a bag, toss them
around, and let them sit for a time. As the chicken breasts sit, keep tossing or tumbling
them around to extract the protein that is being denatured by salt. Once done, layer the
breasts in a terrine mold, along with the extracted protein, and bake the product at a
lower temperature (approximately 300F/149C) until the proper internal temperature
is reached, and then cool the terrine to 100F/38C. As the terrine cools, press it with
a light weight and let it cool thoroughly overnight. The following day, keep the product
cold, rewrap it with new plastic wrap, and slice to serve. The resulting terrine is not only
avorful and tender but also contains no more fat than the initial product.
172
FORCEMEATS
Another method is using a braised product such as oxtails. This would be done
by braising in a short liquid until done. Once braised, strain the liquid into another
container, and, keeping the meat as hot as possible, pick the meat over, breaking it into
pieces and removing the fat. You can then season the braise using tart items, such as
gherkins or other herbs. In the meantime, reduce the liquid to half, being sure not to
burn it, and skim off the fat. Add just enough liquid back to the meat to make it moist,
mixing the product throughout the addition of the liquid. Place the meat in a small
mold, keeping it slightly pressed in the mold overnight. The product will be ready to
slice and serve the next day.
Another trend with terrines is using avorful aspic, or even vinaigrette that is
bound with gelatin, to bind the terrine. An example of this would be using roasted
vegetables, which are already avored well, and layering them in a terrine mold while
brushing each piece with the vinaigrette fortied with the gelatin. Arrange the different layers of vegetables, let the product sit for around 10 to 15 minutes in the refrigerator, then press it with a weight overnight.
There are a number of other items like activa that can be used to glue pieces
together, bake them, and serve the glued pieces as a whole piece if desired. Activa is
an enzyme that is frequently used to bind meats together.
People are always looking to cut down on the time that is required to produce
terrines without the loss of binding and avor. The usage of activa and aspic geles
may aid in the production of terrines without sacricing time.
jellied and pressed meats

These are good examples of products that are easily made lighter and healthfully, to
t a more contemporary event or menu. The different preparation techniques make
the food less heavy and a skillful chef can make them just as avorful.
Jellied meats consist of cooked meats, garnish, and avorings, cut attractively and
set in a avored stock that is high in gelatin content (and therefore able to set to a rm
gel). Pressed meats are similar to the jellied meats except no additional liquid is used
only the natural gelatin from the meat. The item is cooked until tender and seasoned,
and a garnish may be added. The meat is then pressed together, wrapped in plastic,
or put in a plastic wraplined mold and cooled under pressure.
basics of jellied and pressed meats

MEAT: Any
type of fresh or cured meat, poultry, or seafood can be used.

garnish of various vegetables, meats, fruits, nuts, and so on can be
used. All garnish should complement the meat item, be attractive, uniformly
cut, and fully cooked.
GARNISH: A
LIQUID: The liquid should complement the meat item and garnish, be well
seasoned, and, if possible, contain some natural gelatinfor example, a good
strong stock.
173
SEASONINGS: Spices, herbs, onions, garlic, wines, or prepared seasoning

preparations such as soy sauce may be added.
GELATIN CONTENT: Since
gelatin is what will bind the item, meats that contain

natural gelatin (collagen) are used; in some cases the gelatin content will have to
be fortied with additional sheet gelatin.
cooking and assembly method for jellied and pressed meats
1.
The meat item is cooked, usually by simmering in a avored liquid; other

methods are smoking and roasting. Bone and skin are removed if necessary and
the meat is cut or broken into pieces.
2.
The garnish and other avorings are prepared and precooked if necessary, then
mixed with the meat.
3.
The liquid is reduced if necessary, degreased, seasoned, checked for gelatin

strength, and adjusted if necessary.
4.
All items are combined, checked for nal seasoning and placed in a plastic
wraplined mold, refrigerated for 24 hours, then sliced and served.
pt dough
MAKES 2/ LB/1 KG 247 G
1 lb 4 oz/567 g
bread our, sifted
1 oz/43 g nonfat dry milk
oz/7 g baking powder
oz/14 g kosher salt
3 oz/99 g shortening
2 oz/71 g unsalted butter
2 medium eggs
1 tbsp/15 mL white vinegar
1 to 1 cups/240 to 300
mL milk, or as needed
174
1.
Place the our, dry milk, baking powder, salt, shortening, and butter in a
food processor and pulse until the dough is a ne meal.
2.
3.
Place the dough in a 20-qt. mixer with a paddle attachment.
Add the eggs, vinegar, and 4 to 5 oz/120 to 150 mL of milk. Mix on speed
1 just to form it into a ball. Here you determine the amount of milk if it needs
more. The dough should be moist yet dry; if it does not hold together and is not
moist enough, then add more milk. If the ball is formed and moist but dry, then
mix on speed 2 for 3 to 4 minutes to develop the gluten.
4. Remove the dough from the mixer and knead by hand until smooth, tucking
in all the end under as you would to shape a ball of bread. Square it off.
5. Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for a minimum 30 minutes (for best results,
overnight) in the refrigerator. before rolling and cutting the dough to line the terrine molds.
FORCEMEATS
terrine of duck cont

MAKES ONE 2 TO 3 LB/907 TO 1.36 KG TERRINE
2 whole ducks
Cure Mix

10 black peppercorns,
crushed
tsp/2.50 mL
ground bay leaf
1 tsp/5 mL thyme leaves
1 tbsp/15 mL FourSpice Mix (page 35)
1. Disjoint the ducks. Trim and reserve the excess skin and fat. Use leg, thigh,
and breast meat. Any excess trim can be reserved for stock.
2. Combine the salt, Insta Cure, sugar, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme,
and Four-Spice Mix for the cure mix. Rub the duck and pork butt well with the
cure mix, using all the cure mixture on the meat. Cure both overnight under
refrigeration.
3.
Dice the fatback and grind with the reserved duck fat and skin through the
ne plate (8 in/3 mm) of a meat grinder. Render the fat in a saucepan with the
water. Strain the rendered fat. Rinse the meat under warm water to melt the
salt. Wipe dry.
4. Combine the duck, pork, onion, celery, garlic, and rendered fat in a roasting
pan or Dutch oven and cover. Braise in a 300F/149C conventional oven, turning occasionally, for 2 hours, or until the meats are very tender.
5.
1 lb/454 g boneless pork

butt, trimmed of fat
1 lb/454 g pork fatback
cup/120 mL water
1 medium
yellow onion, split
2 celery stalks, cut into
3-in/8-cm chunks
2 garlic cloves, smashed
2 tsp/10 mL grated
orange zest
2 to 3 oz/57 g to 85 g
garnish (see Note)
Remove the meats from the fat and cool until you can handle them. Strain
the fat and reserve. Discard the vegetables.
6.
Remove the meat from the bones, making sure no bones and duck fat are
left in and on the meat. Combine in a mixer bowl with the orange zest and 1
cups/300 mL of the strained fat.
7. Mix slowly with a paddle to coarsely shred the meats and evenly distribute
the fat. Add any desired garnish once the meat is shredded, and mix briey to
distribute the garnish.
8. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Pack the meat
into the mold. Fold over the liner to cover, then cover with a press plate, weight
with a 1-lb/454-g weight, and refrigerate overnight.
9.
Carefully unmold and remove the plastic wrap from the nished terrine. The
colder the terrine is before you slice it the better. Slice and serve or wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Note: Possible garnishes to include in this terrine may be braised kale, blanched pistachios,
or dried cherries that have been rehydrated in a small amount of alcohol.
175
duck terrine with

pistachios
MAKES ONE 2 LB/907 G TERRINE
1 duck (5 to 6 lb/2.27
to 2.72 kg)
1 qt/960 mL water
1 cup/240 mL red wine
1 sachet dpices
4 oz/113 g mirepoix
cup/60 mL orange juice
cup/60 mL brandy
Oil, as needed
2 oz/57 g minced
yellow onions
1 lb/454 g pork butt,
cleaned of fat, cubed
4 oz/113 g pork belly,
skinned, cubed
1 medium egg
1 tsp/5 mL Pt Spice
Mix #1 (page 35)
8 tsp/0.625 mL
thyme leaves
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
grated orange zest
oz/14 g kosher salt
2 oz/57 g shelled
pistachios, blanched,
roughly chopped
12 pork fatback slices
(16 in/1.50 mm thick),
or as needed
1 to 2 cups/240 to 480 mL
aspic gele (see page 280)
176
1.
Debone the duck; reserve the breasts, leg/thighs, and liver. Trim the breasts
of all fat. Remove the fat and sinews from the legs and thighs and reserve the
meat and liver under refrigeration.
2. Chop the carcass and wings. Combine the duck bones, water, wine, sachet,
and mirepoix in a stockpot. Simmer for 1 hours.
3.
4.
Strain and degrease the stock. Reduce the stock to 1 cup. Chill.
Marinate the duck breasts in the orange juice and brandy overnight under
refrigeration.
5. Remove the breasts from the marinade and blot dry. Reserve the marinade.
In a saut pan, sear the duck breasts in a small amount of oil. Remove the
breasts from the pan and reserve.
6. Saut the onion and garlic in the saut pan until translucent; use about
medium heat so they do not burn. Add the reserved marinade and reduce to a
syrup.
7.
8.
Cool the onion mixture to room temperature.
In a mixing bowl, combine the onion mixture, pork butt, pork belly, duck leg/
thigh meat, and liver. Progressively grind the meat from the coarse plate (8 in/9
mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
9. Add the egg, reduced duck stock (slightly warmed to be liquid but cool), pt
spice, thyme, orange zest, and salt. Mix thoroughly. Test the forcemeat and adjust the seasoning if needed.
10.
11.
Fold the pistachio nuts into the forcemeat.
Lightly brush the terrine mold with oil. Line a terrine mold with plastic
wrap, leaving an overhang. Line the plastic wrap with the thinly sliced fatback,
letting it hang over by about in to 1 in/1 cm to 3 cm on all sides. Pack half of
the forcemeat into the mold, making sure there are no air pockets and that it is
packed in very rmly. Place the duck breasts in the center (the duck breast might
have to be trimmed so it ts into the mold, duck breast should be the length of
the terrine), and top with the remaining forcemeat. Cover with slices of fatback
and fold over the liner to cover. Cover the mold.
FORCEMEATS
12. Bake in a hot water bath in a 300F/149C conventional oven to an internal temperature of 150F/66C.
13.
14.
Cool the terrine to 100F/38C.
Pour off the excess fat and ll with aspic heated to 100F/38C. Re-cover
with plastic wrap and let sit in the refrigerator for 1 hour, and then press with a
2-lb/907-g press plate overnight under refrigeration. You could also use a Plexiglas
(or even two) that is slightly narrower and shorter than the terrine press overnight.
15.
Carefully unmold and remove the plastic wrap from the nished terrine.
Slice and serve or wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
After lining a terrine mold with

plastic wrap that has been lined
with the fat back slices, ll it halfway with the prepared forcemeat,
smoothing over the top.
Lay the garnish into the terrine

as it is being lled to produce a
centered dispersion.
If desired, a pastry bag may be

used to work the forcemeat into
the corners and around
the garnish.
177
duck terrine with pistachios, continued
Fold the fatback slices rst, then

the plastic wrap over the fatback to
completely encase it and cover the
mold with a lid.
Set a press plate on the cooled

terrine and place a weight on
the press plate. You can make
your own press plate by cutting
Styrofoam, Plexiglas, or wood to
size slightly smaller than the mold
and covering it with plastic wrap.
Rewrap the terrine in plastic wrap

to maintain the shape.
Cut the nished terrine into slices

for serving.
178
FORCEMEATS
Carefully unmold and remove

the plastic wrap from the
nished terrine.
pt de foie (liver pt)

MAKES ONE 3 LB/1.36 KG TERRINE
1 lb/907 g pork liver

Milk (optional), as needed
3 lb/1.36 kg pork
belly, skinned
4 oz/113 g yellow
onions, diced
3 medium shallots, diced
2 tbsp/30 mL butter
Seasoning
oz/7 g kosher salt

Pinch of Insta Cure No. 1
tsp/1.67 mL ground
black pepper
tsp/1.25 mL Pt
Spice Mix #1 (page 35)
4 oz/113 g all-purpose our

1 cup/240 mL heavy cream
4 medium eggs, beaten
12 slices pork fatback,
thinly sliced
1.
2.
3.
4.
Clean the pork liver, soak in milk for 1 hour if desired, drain dry, and cube.
Cut pork belly into about 1-in/3-cm cubes.
Saut the onions and shallots in the butter until translucent. Chill well.
Combine the pork liver, pork belly, and onion mixture with the seasoning
ingredients.
5.
Grind through a -in/6-mm grinding plate, then through a 8-in/3-mm

grinding plate into a mixer bowl over an ice bath.
6.
Combine the our, cream, and eggs in a mixing bowl; whisk together
until smooth.
7. Place the bowl of ground meat in a mixer with a paddle attachment. On

speed #1, stir in the our mixture and mix well.
8. Line the terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang, then line with
the fatback so that it overhangs by about 1 in/3 cm on all sides. Pack the meat
into the mold. Fold over the fatback and liner to cover.
9. Bake in a 300F/149C conventional oven in a hot-water bath to an internal
10.
11.
Cool the terrine to 100F/38C.
Cover with a press plate and weight with a 2-lb/907-g weight. Refrigerate
overnight.
12.
Slice and serve or wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Presentation idea: This pt is excellent for sandwiches or canaps.
179
chicken galantine
MAKES 1 GALANTINE, APPROXIMATELY 4 LB/1.81 KG
1 chicken (about
3 lb/1.36 kg), boned,
wing tips removed,
skin removed intact
7 oz/210 mL sherry
2 medium shallots, sliced
1 tbsp/15 mL butter
8 tsp/0.625 mL
Insta Cure No. 1
4 oz/113 g pork
fatback, cubed
1 tbsp/15 mL glace
de volaille
1 medium egg
1 tbsp/15 mL chopped
fresh parsley
sage or chervil
1 tsp/5 mL poultry
seasoning
1 tsp/5 mL ground
black pepper
2 oz/57 g heavy cream
Garnish
4 oz/113 g smoked tongue

(8-in/3-mm dice)
3 oz/85 g trufe peelings
4 oz/113 g pork fatback
( 8-in/3-mm dice)
5 oz/142 g pistachios,
shelled, blanched, halved
Poaching liquid, as needed

to cover the galantine
180
1. Weigh 8 oz/227 g of the chicken leg and thigh meat and cube it, about
1-in/3-cm pieces. Set aside under refrigeration.
2.
Cut the chicken breasts into -in/6-mm cubes. Combine 1 cup/240 mL of

the diced chicken breast with cup/120 mL of the sherry and reserve under
refrigeration for garnish.
3. Sweat the shallots and garlic in the butter. Deglaze with the remaining sherry. Reduce by half and cool to room temperature.
4. Combine the shallot mixture, Insta Cure, and 2 tsp/10 mL of the salt with
the cubed chicken leg and thigh meat and cubed fatback. Cover and refrigerate
for 4 hours.
5.
Progressively grind the chicken meat and fatback from the coarse plate (8
in/9 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixer bowl over an ice
bath. Transfer to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment.
6. Add the glace de volaille, egg, parsley, sage, poultry seasoning, remaining
salt, and the pepper to the forcemeat; mix until just blended. Fold the cream into
the forcemeat over an ice bath. Mix well and hold over the ice bath.
7.
8.
9.
Make a taste test and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Fold the reserved chicken breast and garnish ingredients into the forcemeat.
Wrap the forcemeat in plastic wrap and roll into a tight round cylinder.
Freeze for 1 hour.
10.
Lay out the reserved skin on plastic wrap, skin side down and trimmed into
a rectangle. Lay the forcemeat on top.
11.
Roll the skin carefully around the forcemeat. The skin should just overlap
itself by about 1 in/3 cm, forming a seam. Roll up the plastic wrap to cover
tightly. Tie off both ends with butchers twine.
12. Poach the galantine in enough water to cover the galantine totally to an
internal temperature of 155F/68C.
13. Turn off the heat and let the galantine carry over to 165F/74C in the
poaching liquid.
14.
15.
Let the galantine cool down to 100F/38C.
Remove the galantine from the poaching liquid. Remove the plastic wrap
and rewrap the galantine tightly to produce an even, appealing texture. Store for
up to 1 week. This can be served with Cumberland Sauce (page 301).
FORCEMEATS
pt de campagne
(country-style terrine)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 g pork
butt, 75/25, boned, cut
into 1-in/3-cm cubes
8 oz/227 g pork liver or
chicken livers, chicken
livers cleaned of sinew
4 oz/113 g yellow
onions, nely chopped
5 parsley sprigs,
nely chopped
2 oz/71 g allpurpose our
2 medium eggs
2 tbsp/30 mL brandy
cup/120 mL heavy cream
Seasoning
tsp/3.75 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
kosher salt
tsp/1.25 mL ground
white pepper
tsp/2.50 mL Pt
Spice Mix #1 (page 35)
1.
Progressively grind 1 lb/454 g of the pork, the liver, garlic, onions, and parsley
from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a
mixing bowl over an ice bath. Place in large bowl.
2.
Grind the remaining pork through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm). Add to the
meat mixture. Reserve under refrigeration.
3. Combine the our, eggs, brandy, and cream in a mixing bowl; whisk together
until smooth.
4. Add the our mixture and seasoning ingredients to the meat mixture. Mix
on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the mixture feels sticky to
the touch. Make a taste test and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
5.
Line the terrine mold with plastic wrap, if desired, leaving an overhang. Line
the mold with the fatback. Pack the forcemeat into the mold. Fold over the fatback and liner (if using) to cover.
6. Bake in a 300F/149C conventional oven in a hot-water bath to an internal

7. Cool to 100F/38C. Pour off the excess fat and ll with aspic heated to
100F/38C.
8.
9.
Cool slightly and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Slice and serve with Cumberland Sauce, or wrap and refrigerate for up to
1 week.
Variations:
12 slices pork fatback, or as

needed, sliced paper thin
1 cup/240 mL aspic
gele (see page 280),
or as needed
Chicken, rabbit, or turkey may be substituted for the pork.

Before grinding in step 1, saut the onion and garlic in a small amount of oil until translucent. Chill the onion
mixture. Add the onion mixture and cup/60 mL melted glace de viande when adding
the seasoning.
Cumberland Sauce
(page 301), as needed
181
chicken pt en crote
1 half chicken breast,

medium dice
cup/120 mL sherry
2 tbsp/30 mL
allspice berries
2 medium shallots, sliced
1 tbsp/15 mL butter
1 tsp/5 mL ground
black pepper
tsp/1.25 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
2 lb/907 g chicken legs and
thighs, cleaned, cubed
8 oz/227 g pork
fatback, cubed
1 tbsp/15 mL glace
de volaille
1 medium egg
1 lb/454 g Pt
Dough (page 174)
cup/60 mL egg wash
(1 whole egg beaten with
1 tbsp/15 mL milk)
Garnish
14 to 16 thin slices ham

3 oz/85 g smoked
ham, small dice
3 oz/85 g dried apricots,
brunoise, plumped in sherry
182
1. Combine the chicken breast with 3 oz/90 mL of the sherry and 1 tbsp/15 ml
of the allspice in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Reserve under refrigeration for
garnish.
2.
3.
Sweat the shallots and garlic in butter; deglaze with the remaining sherry.
Combine the shallot mixture, 2 tsp/10 mL of the salt, the pepper, Insta
Cure, and the remaining allspice with the chicken leg and thigh meat and fatback in a mixing bowl. Cover and marinate overnight under refrigeration.
4. Progressively grind the marinated meat and fat from the coarse plate
(8 in/9 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an
ice bath. Transfer to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment.
5. Drain the chicken breast, reserving the sherry; return the chicken meat to
the refrigerator. Add the sherry, glace de volaille, egg, the remaining salt, and the
heavy cream to the forcemeat. Mix well.
6.
7.
Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Fold the diced chicken breast and garnish ingredients into the forcemeat,
working over an ice bath.
8.
Roll out the dough to a thickness of approximately 8 to in/3 to 6 mm.

Line a hinged mold with the dough. When the rolled dough is set in the
mold, smooth the dough against the mold and seal the seams with egg wash
and a piece of reserved trim dough. Leave an overhang on one side, enough to
completely cover the top of the mold, and extend down into the mold on the
opposite side at least in/1 cm. Line the dough with thin ham slices on all
sides, letting the ham overhang by in/1 cm on each side. Pack the forcemeat
into the lined mold. Fold the dough over the forcemeat, cutting away any excess.
Trim away any excess and tuck the edges down into the mold. Cut a hole in the
top to permit steam to escape. Reinforce the vent hole by gluing a ring of dough
around the hole into place with some egg wash and insert a chimney. Brush the
surface with egg wash.
9. Bake at 450F/232C for 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to

350F/177C and nish baking to an internal temperature of 165F/74C,
about 10 to 15 minutes.
FORCEMEATS
3 oz/85 g pistachios,
blanched or toasted
nes herbes
to 1 cup/180 to 240
mL aspic gele (see
page 280), melted
When the rolled dough is set in the

mold, smooth the dough against
the mold and seal the seams with
egg wash and a piece of reserved
trim dough.
10.
11.
Remove the pt from the oven and cool to 90 to 100F/32 to 38C.
12.
Slice and serve immediately, or wrap and refrigerate for up to 5 days.
Ladle the aspic through a funnel into the pt. When it lls up, let the
aspic distribute evenly and top off with more if needed. You will see the aspic
through the chimney. Refrigerate the pt for at least 24 hours. Refrigerate in
the mold; when ready to slice, unmold, scrape, or brush any aspic that might be
formed on the outside.
If desired, a second liner of thinly

sliced cooked meat can be added;
the liner of ham or other product is
usually used to protect the dough
from the moisture of the forcemeat.
Then evenly spread the forcemeat
in the mold.
The forcemeat may be piped into

the terrine mold to work into the
corners more easily.
183
chicken pt en crote, continued
Enclose the forcemeat by overlapping the overhanging sections of

the liner.
Using a piping tip, cut a small hole

in the top of the dough to allow
steam to escape during baking.
Insert a chimney, a cylinder designed to keep the hole from closing as the pt bakes, and use egg
wash to adhere decorations made
from dough scraps.
Carefully free the pt en crote

from the mold after cooking.
184
FORCEMEATS
Use a paring knife to carefully remove the cut dough from the hole.
terrine of foie gras and

butternut squash
1.
3 lb/1.36 kg foie
gras, grade A
Temper the foie gras to around 70 to 80F/21 to 27C, so it becomes very

soft and pliable. Clean the foie gras lobes by removing the veins (see page 171).
1 tbsp/15 mL
granulated sugar
2.
2 tbsp/30 mL sea salt

2 tsp/10 mL ground
white pepper
tsp/1.25 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
1 cup/240 mL Cognac
or Sauternes
2 lb/907 g butternut squash
(about 2 small squashes)
Honey, as needed
1 tsp/5 mL ground
cinnamon
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground nutmeg
2 tsp/10 mL ground ginger
Ground black pepper,
as needed
30 at-leaf parsley
leaves, blanched for 5
seconds and shocked
Place the lobes in a parchment paperlined half hotel pan. Sprinkle the foie gras
with the sugar, sea salt, white pepper, and Insta Cure and lightly rub to adhere them.
3. Sprinkle the foie gras liberally with Cognac or Sauternes and cover with a
sheet of parchment paper. Place in refrigerator to marinate for 3 hours. Gently
turn over the foie gras, rub with the accumulated marinade, and marinate for an
additional 3 hours.
4. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Place the lobes
smooth side down in the mold; season as needed. Fill the mold to the inner lip
and press down tightly to remove any air pockets. Fold over the liner and cover
the terrine mold.
5. Bake the terrine in a hot water bath, maintaining the bath at a constant
160F/71C, to an internal temperature of 100F/38C. The oven temperature
may need to be adjusted to keep the water at a constant 160 temperature. If it
gets too hot, add cold water immediately to lower the temperature. Foie gras has
the best texture and avor when cooked to an internal temperature of around
100F/38C (be sure to check with your local and state authorities, however).
6. Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to rest for 2 hours at
room temperature, then pour off the excess fat. Hold at room temperature.
7. Quarter the squash and scrape out the seeds using a spoon. Lay the squash
skin side down in a hotel pan and lightly drizzle with honey. Season the squash
with the cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and salt and black pepper.
8.
Roast at 350F/177C, until cooked through but not browned. (Light

browning on the edges of the squash is acceptable.)
9. Set aside the squash to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, separate
the neck of the squash from the bulb-like lower section. Remove the skin with a
knife and lightly atten the pieces of squash with the palm of your hand.
10. To assemble the terrine, spray the terrine mold with vegaline spray and
then line terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Place one third of
the foie gras smooth side down in the mold to create the bottom layer. Pack each
185
piece of foie gras into the mold using the back of your hands to push out any air
bubbles. Place a few leaves of parsley over the foie gras, keeping the squash away
from the edge of the terrine (1in/3 cm), then place two or three pieces of squash
over the parsley. Lightly drizzle with additional honey and repeat the layering
procedure. Once the second layer of squash is complete, nish it off with a third
layer of foie gras.
11. Once the terrine is full, gently fold over the plastic wrap. Cover the terrine
with a press plate and top with a 2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g weight, tied down
with string.
12. Refrigerate the terrine for 6 hours. Unmold the terrine gently and rewrap
it tightly with plastic wrap.
13. Slice the terrine with a heated knife and serve immediately, or refrigerate
and store for up to 1 week for later use.
186
FORCEMEATS
Carefully remove the vein network from

the interior of each lobe of foie gras.
Soak the foie gras in salted ice

water and dry well.
Press the foie gras into a pan lined

with parchment.
Cognac is a classic marinade

ingredient, which is poured liberally
over the foie gras.
Place the marinated foie gras into

the terrine mold.
When the cooked terrine cools to

90F/32C, place a press plate on
top, tie on a weight, and refrigerate.
187
bierschinken
MAKES 24 LB/10.88 KG
fresh ham
Pork and Beef Brine
(page 115), as needed
Cure Mix
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
Spice Blend
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g Colmans
dry mustard
oz/14 g onion powder
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground mace
1. Cube the ham into about -in/1-cm pieces and place in a deep plastic
container with enough beef brine to cover. Cover and cure for 24 hours under
refrigeration.
2. Combine the Insta Cure, salt, and dextrose to make the cure mix. In another
mixing bowl, combine the pepper, mustard, onion powder, ginger, and mace to
make the spice blend.
3.
Toss the beef and boneless pork cubes with the cure mix and spice blend.
Chill well, until nearly frozen.
4.
Progressively grind the chilled meat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve
under refrigeration.
5. Progressively grind the 50/50 mixture (pork bellies or jowl fat) from the
coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing
bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
6. Transfer the ground meat to a Stephan cutter. Place the ice on top of the
ground meat. Process until the mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C.
7.
8.
Continue processing until the temperature reaches 40F/4C.
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg boneless
beef, cleaned and cubed
Add the ground (50/50 mixture) fat and process until the temperature reaches 45F/7C.
pork, cleaned and cubed
9.
4 lb/1.81 kg pork,
50/50 (pork belly or
jowl fat), cubed
3 lb/1.36 kg crushed ice
Add the nonfat dry milk and process until the temperature reaches
58F/14C.
10.
11.
Make a taste test and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Drain the cubed ham and rinse under warm water for about 2 to 3 minutes.
Dry on paper towels.
12.
Add the ham to the emulsion and mix well. The emulsion should be kept
cold in an ice-water bath.
13. Pack the mixture into well-greased loaf pans, smoothing the top. The size
of the mold can vary, but a 2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g terrine mold can be a good
mold to cook in. Let the bierschinken cure overnight under refrigeration.
14. Bake in a 300F/149C conventional oven in a hot-water bath to an internal temperature of 155F/68C. Cool at room temperature until 100F/38C,
then store in a refrigerator up to 1 week. This can be frozen also and held up to
2 to 3 weeks.
188
FORCEMEATS
leberkse (bavarian loaf)

Cure Mix
2 tsp/10 g Insta Cure No. 1

oz/21 g dextrose
Spice Blend
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g Colmans
dry mustard
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground mace
beef shoulder, cleaned,
cut into 1-in/3-cm cubes
4 lb/1.81 kg pork jowl fat,
1. Combine all the ingredients for the cure mix. In a separate mixing bowl,
combine the ingredients for the spice blend. Toss the beef with the cure mix and
spice blend. Place in resealable plastic bags and chill well, until nearly frozen.
2.
Progressively grind the beef from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under
refrigeration.
3.
Progressively grind the jowl fat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
refrigeration.
4. Transfer the ground beef to a Stephan cutter. Place the ice on top of the
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Add the fat and process until the temperature reaches 45F/7C.
58F/14C.
Place the mixture into well-greased loaf pans. You can use leberkse loaf
pans or a 2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g terrine mold. Mound the top. Using a knife,
score a diamond pattern on top. Let the leberkse cure overnight or for up to
2 days under refrigeration.
10. Bake uncovered in a 350F/177C conventional oven in a hot-water bath

to an internal temperature of 155F/68C. Take out and let cool at room temperature to 100F/38C, then store and hold in a refrigerator for 1 to 2 weeks.
This can also be frozen for 2 to 3 weeks.
189
black and green

olive loaf
MAKES 17 LB/7.71 KG
Cure Mix
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
Spice Blend
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g Colmans
dry mustard
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground mace
beef, cleaned and cut
pork, cleaned and cut
4 lb/1.81 kg pork, 50/50
(jowl fat or pork belly), cut
1 lb 8 oz/680 g green
olives with pimientos
1.
Combine the Insta Cure, salt, and dextrose for the cure mix. In a separate
mixing bowl, combine the ingredients for the spice blend. Toss the cubed meat
with the cure mix and spice blend. Place in resealable plastic bags and chill well,
until nearly frozen.
2.
Progressively grind the meat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the
ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the ground meat to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until the
mixture reaches a temperature of 30F1C.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
58F/14C.
Rinse the green and black olives with hot water. Drain and dry on
paper towels.
9. Add the olives to the emulsion and mix well, making sure that it is mixed
really well. Mix the product over an ice-water bath.
10. Place the mixture into well-greased loaf pans (2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g
terrine molds work well), smoothing the top. Let the olive loaves cure covered
overnight under refrigeration.
11. Bake covered or uncovered (if you get too much color, then cover) in a
350F/177C conventional oven in a hot-water bath to an internal temperature
of 155F/68C. Cool at room temperature until 100F/38C, then store in a
refrigerator, up to 1 week. This can also be frozen and held up to 2 to 3 weeks.
1 lb 8 oz/680 g black
olives, pitted
190
FORCEMEATS
green peppercorn loaf

MAKES 14 LB/6.35 KG
Cure Mix
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
Spice Blend
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/14 g Colmans
dry mustard
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground mace
beef, cleaned and cut
4 lb/1.81 kg pork 50/50
(jowl fat or pork belly), cut
oz/21 g green
peppercorns, drained
1. Combine all the ingredients for the cure mix. In a separate mixing bowl,
combine the ingredients for the spice blend. Toss the cubed beef and pork with
the cure mix and spice blend. Place in resealable plastic bags and semifreeze.
2.
Progressively grind the beef and pork from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
3.
Place 50/50 (jowl fat or pork bellies) in a resealable plastic bag and semifreeze. Progressively grind the 50/50 mixture from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
4. Transfer the ground beef and pork to a Stephan cutter. Place the ice on
top of the ground meat. Process until the mixture reaches a temperature of
30F/1C.
5.
6.
7.

58F/14C.
8. Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning as needed.

9. Rinse the green peppercorns under hot water and drain on paper towels.
10. Add the green peppercorns to the emulsion and mix well, holding the
emulsion over an ice-water bath.
11. Place the mixture into well-greased loaf pans or 2- to 3 -lb/907- to 1360-g
terrine molds, smoothing over the top. Let the loaves cure covered overnight.
12. Bake in a 350F/177C conventional oven in a hot-water bath to an internal temperature of 155F/68C. Cool at room temperature until 100F/38C,
then store in a refrigerator for up to 1 week. This can also be frozen and held up
to 2 to 3 weeks.
191
macaroni and
cheese loaf
MAKES 17 LB/7.71 KG
Cure Mix
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
Spice Blend
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g Colmans
dry mustard
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground mace
beef, cleaned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
in 1-in/3 cm cubes
4 lb/1.81 kg pork, 50/50
(jowl fat or pork bellies),
cut in 1-in/3-cm cubes

1 lb/454 g raw
elbow macaroni
1.
Combine all the ingredients for the cure mix. In a separate mixing bowl,
combine the ingredients for the spice blend. Toss the cubed beef and pork with
the cure mix and spice blend. Place in resealable plastic bags and semifreeze.
2.
Progressively grind the beef and pork from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
3.
Progressively grind the 50/50 mixture from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
4.
Transfer the ground meat to a Stephan cutter. Place the ice on top of the
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
58F/14C.
Add the macaroni and cheese to the emulsion and mix well. The emulsion
should be held over an ice bath while mixing in the garnish.
10.
Place the mixture into well-greased loaf pans or 2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g

mold, smoothing over the top. Let the loaves cure covered overnight.
11. Bake covered in a 350F/177C conventional oven in a hot-water bath

to an internal temperature of 155F/68C. Cool at room temperature until
100F/38C, then store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. This can also be
frozen and held up to 2 to 3 weeks.
Note: A high melting cheese can be specied and purchased from a purveyor.
2 lb/907 g Cheddar or
any high melting cheese,
small dice (see Note)
192
FORCEMEATS
From left to right, top to bottom: mortadella, Bierschinken, Black

and Green Olive Loaf, Macaroni and Cheese Loaf, Tongue loaf
193
smoked chicken and

roasted fennel terrine
MAKES ONE 2 LB/907 G GUTTER MOLD TERRINE
3 medium fennel
bulbs, tops trimmed
3 boneless, skinless,
chicken breasts
1 qt/1.92 L Poultry
Brine (page 117)
2 cups/480 mL vegetable
or fennel stock
1 gelatin sheet, bloomed
and wrung out
cup/60 mL chopped
fennel fronds
1 cup/240 mL Pickled Red
Onion (page 322), drained
as needed
Garnish
8 micro breakfast radishes

2 tbsp/30 mL Fennel
Oil (recipe follows)
cup/60 mL chopped
at-leaf parsley
as needed
1.
Wrap the fennel bulbs in foil and roast for 1 hour at 350F/177C, until the
fennel is tender through center. Cool to room temperature and cut into medium
dice. Reserve.
2. Place the chicken breasts in brine; make sure they are submerged in the
brine for 6 to 10 hours. Rinse in hot water and dry well. Hot-smoke the chicken
to an internal temperature of 165F/74C. (See Chapter 6 for full information
on smoking.) Do not overcook. Cool the chicken breasts to 40F/4C internal
temp. Slice the chicken breasts lengthwise into -in/3-mm slices.
3. Fill a 3-qt/3-L sauce pot with water and t a stainless-steel mixing bowl over
the top. Pour the stock into the bowl. Warm the stock to 80F/27C.
4. Add the gelatin to the stock and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Heat to
110F/43C and let cool to 90F/32C. Add the fennel fronds to the stock.
5. Place the fennel, chicken, and onion in separate stainless-steel mixing bowls.
Season each separately with salt and pepper as needed.
6.
7.
Add enough of the gelatin mixture to each bowl to cover the ingredients.
Spray a terrine mold with vegaline spray. Line the mold with plastic wrap,
leaving an overhang evenly on all sides.
8. Assemble the terrine by placing a layer of chicken on the bottom of the

mold just overlapping slightly. Spoon some pickled onion on top of the chicken
and pour a little of the gelatin mixture on top, just enough to cover the onion.
Add another layer of chicken; you might have to trim the chicken breast to t
just inside the terrine mold evenly. Cover with the gelatin mixture. Spoon some
of the diced fennel on top of the chicken.
9. Alternate layers in the same order until the terrine mold is lled. The top
layer should be chicken. Make sure there is some liquid just to cover but not too
much. Fold over the liner to cover. Let the terrine cool for about 20 minutes.
10.
Place a press plate (Plexiglas that is just shorter and narrower than the
mold itself) on top and weight with a 1-lb/454-g weight. Secure the weight so
that it lays at and even on top. Refrigerate overnight.
194
FORCEMEATS
11. Unmold the terrine and rewrap it tightly with new plastic wrap.
Refrigerate for up to 2 to 3 days.
Presentation idea: To serve, cut into -in/6-mm slices. Place a couple slices of terrine
on the plate. Place a few breakfast radish micro greens on the plate next to the terrine.
Add some fennel oil in a nice fashion, like drops or a smear of the sauce on the plate; for
example, place some sauce down, then take the back of the spoon and drag it through
the sauce. Sprinkle with some chopped parsley and fresh ground pepper.
fennel oil
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
cup/120 mL fennel fronds, packed

cup/120 mL spinach leaves
cup/120 mL at-leaf parsley
cup/120 mL extra-virgin olive oil
cup/180 mL grapeseed oil
1. Blanch the fennel fronds, spinach, and parsley in simmering water for about
30 seconds.
2. Shock and drain on paper towels. Chop coarsely and squeeze out any excess
liquid.
3.
4.
Pure in a blender with the olive and grapeseed oils. Refrigerate for 1 day.
Strain through a ne-mesh sieve, but make sure you have some of the body
of the fennel go through the sieve. Place into a container to hold. You do not
need to line the ne strainer. Refrigerate and decant into a tightly covered container. Cover and refrigerate until needed. This will hold for about 1 week.
195
chilled eminc of
chicken and vegetables
MAKES ONE 2 LB/ 907 G TERRINE
8 chicken legs, whole

7 cups/1.68 L chicken stock
2 parsley sprigs
1 tarragon sprig
21 chive sprigs
Garnish
3 oz/85 g carrots, sliced 8

in/3 mm thick, blanched
4 oz/113 g zucchini,
outer part only, small
dice, blanched
3 oz/85 g chanterelle
mushrooms, cut into
quarters, sauted
Butter, as needed
1 tsp/5 mL green
peppercorns, drained
fresh parsley
1 tsp/7.50 mL chopped
fresh tarragon
tsp/1.25 mL ground
black pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL lemon juice
1.
In a stockpot, combine the chicken, 1 qt/1.44 L of the stock, and the

parsley, tarragon, and chives. Simmer the chicken legs slowly until very tender.
2.
Meanwhile, blanch the garnish vegetables individually in the remaining

stock. Saut the mushrooms in a little butter. Remove and cool the vegetables to
room temperature; reserve. Add the stock to the chicken legs.
3. When the chicken legs are very tender, remove them from the stock and let
cool until you can handle them.
4. Degrease the stock and strain if necessary. Reduce the stock to 1 cups/
360 mL to make sure that the gelatin is sliceable strength. Test, and if it is not,
then fortify with gelatin (refer to Gelatin for Aspic Gele on page 280).
5.
Remove and discard the skin, bones, and any fat from the cooled chicken
legs. Break up the meat into large pieces.
6.
Combine the chicken meat, blanched vegetables, mushrooms, green peppercorns, parsley, tarragon, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and reduced stock. Mix well,
check the seasonings, and adjust the seasoning if needed.
7. Spray the terrine mold with vegaline spray or oil. Line a terrine mold with
plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Pack the chicken mixture into the mold. Make
sure that there is ample liquid mixed in with the chicken and vegetables. Fold
over the liner to cover.
8.
Refrigerate the mold for 15 to 30 minutes. Apply a press plate and a

1-lb/454-g weight and press overnight under refrigeration. (The plate or
Plexiglas should be narrower and shorter than the terrine mold.)
9. The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap and refrigerate for up
to 1 week.
Presentation idea: Arrange slices of the terrine on a plate of greens and serve with CajunStyle Lime and Mustard Seed Dressing (page 292).
196
FORCEMEATS
crole beef daube

MAKES ONE 1 LB/454 G TERRINE
Vegetable oil, as needed

1 lb 4 oz/567 g lean
boneless beef, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
1 lb 4 oz/567 g lean
boneless veal, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
1 bay leaf
3 or 4 parsley stems
1 thyme sprig
2 qt/960 mL brown stock
Garnish
2 oz/57 g yellow
onions, thinly sliced
4 oz/113 g carrots,
thinly sliced, blanched
Vegetable oil, as needed
tsp/2.50 mL cayenne
tsp/2.50 mL ground
black pepper
1. Heat a small amount of oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef
and veal and brown the meat on all sides.
2. Wrap the bay leaf, parsley, and thyme in cheesecloth and tie with butchers
twine to make a sachet. Combine the meat, stock, and sachet in a small stockpot.
Simmer, covered, until the meat is very tender.
3. Remove the meat from the stock. Cut the meat into small pieces and reserve
in a mixing bowl.
4. Strain and degrease the stock. Reduce the stock to 1 cups/360 mL. Check
the gelatin strength (by chilling it completely to be set up) and fortify if necessary
(see page 280).
5. Saut the garnish ingredients in a small amount of oil until the onion is
slightly softened.
6.
7.
Combine the sauted vegetables and reduced stock with the meat.
Season with the cayenne, pepper, and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning
as needed.
8. Spray the terrine mold with vegaline spray, then line a terrine mold with
plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Pack the meat mixture into the lined mold.
Fold over the liner to cover and press the top at with a press plate. Refrigerate
overnight.
9.
Slice and serve with vinaigrette, or rewrap and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
197
tte presse (rolled

pressed pigs head)
MAKES 1 ROLL
1 pigs head, ears and

brain removed, cut in half
3 gal/11.52 L Pork and
Beef Brine (page 115)
3 lb/1.36 kg mirepoix,
diced 2 to 3 in/5 to 8 cm
2 bay leaves
tsp/2.50 mL black
peppercorns
tsp/2.50 mL thyme
2 gal/7.68 L chicken stock
4 oz/113 g shallots or
yellow onions, minced
4 oz/113 g parsley,
chopped
Oil, as needed
Ground nutmeg, as needed
Ground white pepper,
as needed
1.
Place the pigs head in a deep plastic or stainless-steel container and add
enough brine to cover it. Use a plate or plastic wrap to keep it completely
submerged. Brine under refrigeration for 3 days.
2.
3.
Drain the head and rinse off the brine with warm water to melt the salt.
Place the pigs head in a small stockpot. Add the mirepoix, bay leaves,
peppercorns, and thyme. Cover with chicken stock and bring to a simmer.
4. Simmer until the meat is tender, 2 to 3 hours (you will be able to poke your
nger through the skin when it is ready).
5. Meanwhile, saut the shallots and parsley in oil until the shallots become
translucent to develop the aroma and the sweet avor of the onions. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool.
6. Remove the head and discard the bones, eyes, and eardrums. Peel the pork
tongue. Strain the stock, return it to a clean container, and keep it hot.
7.
Place half of the head, skin side down, on a 24 by 30-in/61 by 76-cm

rectangle of wet cheesecloth. Sprinkle the meat with nutmeg and white pepper.
Spread the shallot mixture evenly over the entire surface.
8.
9.
Place the second half of the head on top of the rst half, skin side up.
Roll the head tightly in cheesecloth and secure with butchers twine. Place
the head back into the hot stock. If the stock is not hot, then reheat the stock.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
10. For servicing, remove the rolled head from the stock, unwrap the cheesecloth, and scrape the excess gelatin from the head.
11. Slice thinly and serve with sliced red onions and a mustard vinaigrette.
The head may be held for up to 1 week in the stock under refrigeration.
198
FORCEMEATS
Tte Presse
199
head cheese
MAKES ONE 3 LB/907 TO 1360 G TERRINE (3EA)

4 pigs feet, cut in
half lengthwise
1 lb 8 oz/680 g boneless
pork butt, cleaned
3 gal/11.52 L unsalted
bouillon or clear,
avorful broth
1 bouquet garni, including
tsp/2.50 mL crushed
black peppercorns
1 oignon piqu
2 medium carrots, peeled
7 oz/198 g pimientos,
drained, diced small
One 10-oz/284-g jar
gherkins, drained,
diced small
Champagne vinegar,
as needed
Ground white pepper,
as needed
1. Place the pigs head, pigs feet, and pork butt in a deep plastic or stainlesssteel container and add enough brine to cover. Use a plate or plastic wrap to
keep them completely submerged. Brine under refrigeration for 2 days.
2. Drain and rinse the meats. Place them in a stockpot with enough bouillon to
cover. Add the bouquet garni, oignon piqu, and carrots. Bring to a boil, then
lower to a simmer. Simmer the meat until tender, 2 to 3 hours (you will be able
to poke your nger through the skin when it is ready).
3. Remove the bouquet garni, onion, and carrots. Drain the meat and reserve
the stock. Cool the meat enough to be able to handle it. Peel the tongue. Discard
the eyes and eardrums. Discard the skin from the head and feet. Pick as much
meat as possible from the bones; discard the bones. Trim away excess fatin
the old days, they used all the fat; now some fat needs to be there but other fat is
trimmed awayand discard. The pork butt gets picked over as well, so it is broken up into small pieces.
4. Place the picked-over meat in a 2-in/5-cm hotel pan lined with plastic wrap.
Press with another hotel pan with a 2- to 3-lb/907- to 1360-g weight on top.
Reserve overnight under refrigeration.
5.
Degrease the stock and cool it until it congeals. Determine if the stock is of
sliceable strength and adjust as needed for sliceable strength (see Gelatin for
Aspic Gele on page 280). Heat the liquid to 110F/43C over a water bath.
Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. The stock should be slightly overseasoned so that it will taste good when cold.
6. On the next day, dice the meat into -in/1-cm cubes. Add the pimientos
and gherkins and season with a little Champagne vinegar, salt, and white pepper.
7.
Bring the stock to a temperature of 70 to 75F/21 to 24C and adjust the

seasoning if necessary.
8.
Spray the terrine mold with vegaline spray. Line the terrine mold with plastic
wrap with an overhang of in/1 cm on all sides. Place the meat mixture in a
3-lb/1.36-kg rectangular mold. Pour the stock over the mixture, making sure
that the liquid surrounds the mixture and covers the top completely.
9. Tap the mold a little to get rid of any air pockets. Cool completely. Fold the
plastic overhangs over and place in the refrigerator overnight to set.
10. Slice and serve immediately with a shallot-mustard vinaigrette or store
under refrigeration for up to 1 week, although it is recommended that the head
cheese be eaten fresh.
200
FORCEMEATS
sulze head cheese


1 lb/454 g mirepoix, diced
1 oignon piqu
2 bay leaves
tsp/2.50 mL black
peppercorns
tsp/2.50 mL fresh thyme
3 gal/11.52 L unsalted
bouillon or clear,
avorful broth
4 oz/113 g pimientos, diced
4 oz/113 g dill
pickles, diced
1 oz/43 g fresh
parsley, chopped
1. Place the pigs head in a deep plastic or stainless-steel container and add
enough brine to cover. Use a plate or plastic wrap to keep it completely submerged. Brine under refrigeration for 4 days.
2. Remove and rinse off the brine. Place the pigs head in a small stockpot. Add
the mirepoix, oignon piqu, bay leaves, peppercorns, and thyme. Cover with the
bouillon and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the meat is tender, 2 to 3 hours
(you will be able to poke your nger through the skin when it is ready).
3. Remove the head and discard the bones, eyes, eardrums, and skin. Strain
and reserve the broth. Cut the fat into small pieces and the meat into medium
pieces.
4. In a mixing bowl, combine the fat, meat, pimientos, pickles, parsley, salt,
pepper, and nutmeg; toss well.
5. Degrease the stock, determine if the stock is of sliceable strength, and adjust
as needed for sliceable strength (see Gelatin for Aspic Gele, on page 280).
Add vinegar as needed.
6.
Place the mixture into a lined terrine mold. Fill the molds with stock until
the liquid covers the meat mixture. Refrigerate to set overnight. The head cheese
may be held for up to 1 week under refrigeration.

as needed
Ground nutmeg, as needed
Champagne or white
wine vinegar, as needed
201
sausages
chapter eight
Sausages are dened as chopped or ground meat that has been blended
with spices and other seasonings and usually stuffed in natural or
manufactured casing. Sausages were developed for one reason: to
preserve meat. Extending the life of meat was most important because
it gave people a way to hold the meat through the wintertime for
sustainability.
The origin of meat processing has been lost over time, but it probably began when
mankind learned that salt was an effective preservative. Sausage making evolved as an
effort to economize and preserve meat that could not be consumed fresh at slaughter.
In sausage making, most parts of the animal carcass are used while still maintaining
quality standards.
Early sausage makers found that a wide range of raw ingredients could be used
to make a savory product. In those days, the primary ingredients of sausage were the
parts of the animal carcasses that could not be used in other ways. Today many prime
parts are used in the production of sausages; however, the less tender cuts of an animal,
organ meats, and even blood can be made delicious when ground, spiced, and placed in
a casing.
The procedure of stufng meat into casings today remains very similar to that
used in the past, but sausage recipes have been greatly rened and sausage making
has become a highly respected culinary art. Good sausage makers are as discriminating about what goes into sausage as winemakers are about selecting grapes. From this
early sausage making has evolved a craft in which chefs seek out the best ingredients
available in the market for their purpose and are not just using leftovers. Chefs have
gone searching for rare breeds of pork known for their marbleized meat and good
amount of fat for use in sausage and forcemeat production.
sausage-making basics
The word sausage comes from the Latin word salsus, which means salted or preserved. This process was necessary for people to allow their meat products to keep
longer. Sausage making became a crucial method for using the ground or chopped
scraps and trim that were left over after the slaughter of an animal too large to consume in one or two meals. Trimmings were always enclosed in the intestines, appendix, or bladder of the slaughtered animal. The manner in which these trimmings were
enclosed became distinct by region, and developed into a culinary art form. Sausages
became known by the names of the towns where they originated. For instance, bologna comes from a city in the Emilia-Romagna province of northern Italy with the
same name.
In some parts of the world, especially in colder climates, sausages survive during
the winter without refrigeration, allowing people to eat them regularly during the
bleak months. The processes of smoking and drying sausages allowed people living
in warmer climates the opportunity to have sausage available year-round, without the
need for continuous cooling.
204
SAUSAGES
MAKING HEALTHIER CHARCUTERIE PRODUCTS
Modern forcemeat production has taken a drastic

change from the classical processes we saw with the
gratin, straight, and country methods for forcemeat
preparation, where the forcemeats had a ratio of 1 to
1 for fat to meat. The forcemeats were rich, avorful,
and lling, but were made with quite a bit of fat. At the
present time, these terrines are made with a ratio of 2 to
1 meat to fat. Then there was the mousseline forcemeat,
easily made in a hot kitchen, especially when dealing
with sh forcemeats, for stufngs. In mousseline-style
forcemeats, you would use one type of meat, usually a
lean white meat or a sh, and egg or egg white to help
bind, and cream as the fat. The mousseline forcemeats
are popular in the hot kitchen because they are able
to be prepared quickly, take on the avor of products
added to them, and are not nearly as lling when eaten.
Now we are searching for new ideas to make these
items lighter, contain less fat, and have greater avors.
HEALTHY SAUSAGE PREPARATION IDEAS
The process of reducing fat while still having the

mouthfeel of having fat is the challenge at hand when
choosing to make healthier and less fatty sausages.
The process of taking protein, adding salt, grinding it
through the coarse plates of the meat grinders, and
letting it sit for a few hours or overnight allows us
to extract more binding power from the protein. We
can then add any variety of seasonings and nish the
grinding process. We add a lot of fresh herbs and a
fair amount of garnish to achieve the specic bind and
avor that is desired. Another way to substitute fat in
sausages is to replace the fat with cooked rice, cooked
potato, tofu, or Plum Powder. These items give the
mouth the full avor sensation that we miss when we
are not using fat or when we are keeping the actual fat
content to a minimum in our products. Plum Powder,
in particular, acts to retain water and lends a nice
mouthfeel while deterring bacterial growth. To use Plum
Powder, do not exceed 4 percent of the total weight,
and dissolve the powder rst in distilled water before
adding it to the mixture.
There are many ways of creating low-fat sausages using

an emulsion technique. One such method involves using
chicken or turkey as a base, adding ice, pureing the
mixture in a food processor, adding nonfat milk powder,
and pureing the mixture again. This process gives you
a creamy and smooth forcemeat that can be used in
a sausage. Adding avorful substances, such as sundried tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, or basil, can create
a avorful sausage that can be frozen for shipping, but
needs to be utilized immediately after being heated and
cannot be held in a chauffer. The longer this sausage is
kept heated, the tougher it will get.
Sausage making has turned to extracting the protein
from meat and adding more liquids to the product, thus
almost eliminating the fat from the sausage while still
keeping a avor true to the product. When using this
process, however, you have to compensate for the lack
of fat by using herbs, spices, and seasonings in order to
create a avorful product.
A perfect example of this would be the Chicken
Sausage with Mushrooms and Asiago (page 246) my
friend Henry Rapp developed for use at The Culinary
Institute of America. Henry takes cubed chicken, adds
salt and seasonings, mixes well, and then grinds it
through a -inch grinder plate. He makes an emulsion
by pureing the chicken in a food processor with ice,
then adds nonfat dry milk powder to it and further
emulsies until the mixture reaches 52F/13C. He then
folds in the roasted products that have been ground
through the /8-inch grinder plate to the emulsion, mixing
well by hand. He stuffs the casings and poaches the
product. The product is then ready to be used. The
amount of seasonings and roasted items being used
in this particular recipe helps to provide avor and
mouthfeel in place of the fat that would normally be in a
regular sausage recipe.
205
USDA classication of sausages

SAUSAGE
CLASS
MADE FROM
CURE
SMOKING
STORAGE
COOKING
REQUIRED
EXAMPLES
Fresh sausage
Fresh
uncured and
uncooked
meat
Uncured
Unsmoked
Keep
refrigerated
Cook
thoroughly
before serving
Breakfast,
Italian
Uncooked
smoked
sausage
Fresh meat
Cured with nitrates/

nitrites
Coldsmoked;
air-dried
Keep
refrigerated
Cook before
serving
Chorizo,
andouille
Cooked
sausage
Fresh meat
Cured or uncured
Unsmoked,
cooked by
poaching
Keep
refrigerated
Ready to eat
Liverwurst,
bratwurst
Cooked,
smoked
sausage
Fresh meat
Cured with nitrites
Hotsmoked
Keep
refrigerated
Fully cooked,
ready-to-eat;
Reheat by
poaching,
grilling, or
sauting
Frankfurters,
knockwurst
Dry and semidry sausage
Fresh meat
Cured and fermented

through addition of
lactic acid culture
(Fermento*) or a
starter culture; drying
and fermenting under
controlled temperature
and humidity
Smoked or
unsmoked
May be kept
unrefrigerated;
the lower pH
levels preserve
the sausage
and give it a
tangy avor
Ready to eat
Cooked
salami,
summer
sausage
Dry sausage
Fresh meat
Cured with nitrates and

a starter culture; drying
and fermenting under
controlled temperature
and humidity
Usually
unsmoked
May be kept
unrefrigerated
Ready to eat
raw
Hard salami,
pepperoni
Cooked meat
specialties
(sausage-type
preparations)
Fresh meat
Cured with nitrite, not

in casings (molded or
shaped)
Unsmoked;
may
contain
smoked
product
Keep
refrigerated
Fully cooked,
ready to eat
Leberkse,
pts,
terrines,
olive loaf
*Fermento is a brand name for a dairy-based controlled fermentation product. It is a lactic acidproducing bacteria culture and should
only be used in semidry fermented products. It is recommended at levels between 1 and 6 percent, with 3 percent of total weight. being a
general starting level. More than 6 percent of total weight will cause sausages to break down and become mushy. Fermento also controls
(lowers) pH and adds a tangy avor.
206
SAUSAGES
Cultures, from left to right:

Fermento, lactobacillus, malolactic
culture
sausage ingredients
The nished product is only as good as the ingredients it contains. Meat should be fresh
and high quality, have the proper lean-to-fat ratio, and have good binding qualities.
The meat should be clean and not contaminated with bacteria or other microorganisms. Spices and seasonings should be selected and combined in proper amounts. The
meats and seasonings must complement each other to create a satisfying product.
There are four main ingredients in sausage making. How and in what order they
are used will make a difference in the nal outcome of the product you are making.
meat
Any type of fresh meat, poultry, or seafood can be used. It should always be carefully
trimmed and cut into - to 1-in/1- to 3-cm cubes. When trimming meat, you need
to make sure you are cleaning all the sinew and fat away from the meat. You want the
meat to be clean. The meat is cubed into pieces so that it can t in the body of the
grinder and can be cut easily in the grinder. Add the proper amount of fat afterward.
During processing, the meat should be kept very cold.
The size of the grind will help determine the nished texture of the sausage.
Finely ground meat will have a smoother, rmer texture; coarsely ground meat will
have a chunky, crumbly texture.
fat
Fat adds moisture and avor to a recipe. Lean meats need to have fat added to the
recipe. Too little fat makes a dry product. But fat can be replaced with moistureholding ingredients such as cooked rice (see Panadas, page 152). Fat content cannot
exceed 30 percent of the total weight; most sausage recipes contain about 25 to 30
percent fat by weight.
Pork jowl and fatback are preferred over kidney or internal fat. Fatback is always
cleaned of the skin and cubed into - to 1-in/1- to 3-cm pieces. Jowl fat is cleaned of
207
the skin and the glands are trimmed from the meat. Do
not use poultry fat, which is too soft, or lamb fat, which
is too hard and has a strong avor.
water
FSIS regulations permit manufacturers of fresh sausage
to add water up to 3 percent of the total product weight.
Cooked sausage manufacturers are allowed to vary
the amount of added water according to the amount
of fat. The maximum fat content is limited to 30 percent, and the amount of fat and water combined is
limited to 40 percent. So the manufacturers can increase
water to substitute for reduced fat. Water dissolves
cure and avorings, as well as adding moisture; ice is
often substituted for water, which also helps to keep the
product cold while processing. Wine and stock can also
be used.
Sausage components, clockwise
from top left: cubed meat, jowl fat,
ice water, salt and pepper, cubed
fatback
salt
Salt preserves product, enhances avors, and solubilizes the meat protein in order to
improve the binding properties of the mixture. It preserves by dehydrating bacteria
and can help in preventing trichinae parasites from developing if enough salt is there
for a long enough time. In addition, salt draws moisture from dry-cured, air-dried
products, further limiting the environment for the growth of pathogens. Of course,
salt is well known as a avor enhancer. Finally, salt assists in protein extraction (solubilization) in basic-grind and emulsion-method sausage products to improve binding
and texture.
other sausage ingredients
seasonings
The seasonings used are sometimes what distinguish one sausage product from another; think of hot versus sweet Italian sausage. Seasonings is another general term
that refers to any substance that is used to impart avor to the food product. Some
examples of common spices and seasonings include allspice, peppers, cardamom,
caraway, coriander, cumin, garlic, sage, mustard, nutmeg, paprika, rosemary, thyme,
and turmeric. Spices are dened as any aromatic vegetable substance that is intended to contribute avoring in food. The active aromatic or pungent properties of
spices that contribute the most to the avoring effect are mostly present in the volatile
oils, resins, or aleoresins of the spice.
Flavorings are substances that are extracted from a food (such as fruits, herbs,
roots, or meats and seafood) that are also intended to contribute avoring instead of
nutritional substance. Smoked items should be cured with Insta Cure No. 1, or another of its commercial versions. Seasonings have to be added by taste.
208
SAUSAGES
sweeteners
Sweeteners counteract the bitterness in liver products. Dextrose counteracts the
harshness of salt. It is an ideal nutrient for lactic acid culture in fermented sausage,
and aids in the fermentation of salami-type products. It also has hygroscopic qualities,
which means it increases the sausages ability to retain water. If you want to make a
substitution, remember that 1 oz/28 g of dextrose is the equivalent of oz/21 g of
granulated sugar. Dextrose and other sweeteners help stabilize the pink color of the
product when used with Insta Cure No. 1. Curing agents such as nitrite or nitrates
have been used in sausage formulation, originally as a contaminant present in salts
and later added intentionally in the form of saltpeter. Nitrite has antioxidant properties and improves the taste and color of the sausage. Nitrates prevent the growth of
bacteria, such as Clostridium botulinum bacteria, which cause botulism. Some sweeteners
also function as binders.
garnish
Garnish is optional and should complement the other items in the sausage. Examples
include cubed fat and pistachios in mortadella, and ham or tongue added to make
variations of bologna (page 257).
permissible additives
secondary binders
Binders and extenders have a number of uses in a sausage formulation. Manufacturers
use extenders such as dry milk powder, cereal ours, and soy protein as a lower-cost
method to increase the overall yield of the formulation, to get a better bind, and to
achieve a particular slicing quality, as well as to add avor characteristics. A sausage
can include up to 3.5 percent of these substances.
NONFAT DRY MILK absorbs
as much as 50 percent of its weight and helps prevent

shrinkage. It has a slight but pleasing taste.
SODIUM CASEINATE is nonfat dry milk with the calcium removed; it also absorbs
up to half its weight. It has a 90-percent protein content, and is primarily used
to bind, hold moisture, and prevent water purge during packaging and storage.
SODIUM PHOSPHATE improves
binding and makes the emulsion creamier, as well

as giving a better product yield. It raises the pH of meat, and has hygroscopic
(moisture-retaining) properties. The water-binding property of the meat is
improved using phosphates; they also act as antioxidants and stabilize the
avor and color of the product. Phosphates also help increase the shelf life of a
product. The maximum amount of phosphates approved for sausage products
is limited to 0.5 percent of the nished product weight.
SOY PROTEIN, SOY CONCENTRATE, AND SOY PROTEIN ISOLATE are
secondary
binders that improve binding. Soy protein isolate can absorb as much as 95
percent of its weight.
209
Left to right, top to bottom: soy

protein isolate, nonfat dry milk,
sodium phosphate, sugar, dextrose,
salt, Insta Cure No. 1, Insta Cure
No. 2
sodium erythorbate
This is similar to sodium ascorbic acid, an expensive chemical that slows down nitrite
reaction to produce a greater yield and helps the product develop and retain better
color. It is an antioxidative agent required in commercial bacon production to prevent nitrites turning into nitrosamines during the cooking process.

These preservatives have purposely been tinted pink to avoid confusion with salt in the
kitchen. For a full discussion of nitrites and nitrates used in sausages, see Chapter 5.
TINTED CURE MIX (TCM/INSTA CURE NO. 1/PRAGUE POWDER I)
Contains: sodium chloride (salt) 94 percent, sodium nitrite 6 percent

4 oz/113 g TCM needed to cure 100 lb/45.36 kg of sausage meat to
prevent botulism. TCM develops and stabilizes the pink cured color in
the lean muscle tissue of meat. It also inhibits the growth of a number of
food-poisoning and spoilage organisms, in particular the Clostridium botulinum
organism. TCM contributes to the characteristic avor of cured meats.
Retards lipid fat oxidation, also known as rancidity, in product, preventing stale
taste.
INSTA CURE NO. 2/PRAGUE POWDER II
Contains: salt (sodium chloride) 94 percent, sodium nitrite ( percent), sodium

nitrate (5 percent). It helps develop a pink color in meats and is normally
used to produce dry and dry-fermented products.
SALTPETER (POTASSIUM NITRATE)
210
Use limitedly after 1975 by USDA.

Saltpeter is not allowed in the production of smoked or cooked meat or sausages.
This restriction is primarily related to the fact that the exact level of residual
nitrites in products treated with potassium nitrate is hard to determine in advance.
SAUSAGES
For thousands of years man has been eating meat cured with salt. The
reddening effect on meats was rst mentioned during the latter part of the Roman
Empire. Nitrate was probably present in the crude form of salt that was used: in many
cases it was the result of evaporated sea water. In the early 1900s it was discovered
that salt did not produce the red color but that sodium and potassium nitrates present in impure salt did. They also discovered that sodium nitrate was converted into
sodium nitrite by bacteria found in meat and then into nitric oxide. The amount of
color change is dependent on the amount of myoglobin present in meat (the
more myoglobin, the darker reddish pink the cured color). Chicken has the lowest myoglobin content, whereas beef has the highest content. Seafood contains no
myoglobin.
More important than color enhancement, nitrites have been the only acceptable
substance to prevent botulism in cured and smoked products, even though more than
700 substances have been tested as possible replacements. For more information on
nitrites, see page 75.
As a result of these tests, there is stricter control of the use of nitrite in food processing. Less nitrite is used to cure meats, and residual nitrites must be less than 200
ppm (parts per million) in nished processed meats. Today bacon contains erythorbate or some other vitamin C compound to prevent nitrosamine formation. Also, nitrite cannot be premixed with paprika and pepper in spice blends; they are packaged
separately and should be mixed and then used right away.
casings
Casings may be natural (derived from animal sources) or articial (manufactured from
collagen, plastic, paper, or wood pulp); they may be edible or nonedible. They come in
many different sizes and shapes, which can be part of what distinguishes one sausage
product from another. Their use can be to merely contain the sausage, or they can
also add avor to the nished product.
Natural casings used for fresh sausage are washed, scraped, and treated, graded
for size and condition, then salted, packaged, and shipped in brine or propylene glycol
(for preservation) to the sausage manufacturer.
Synthetic casings are made from a variety of food-grade materials; some are
edible and some are not. Synthetic casings are often the choice for consistency of
product.
natural casings
Natural casings are derived from animals, and are used in their natural shape and
form. They are cleaned, sanitized, and packed in salt (slush pack) or brine. There are
several types of natural casings. The casings you most typically see are dry casings.
These are packed in salt, and have been preushed and pretubed, which means they
are placed on a thin plastic tube that you pull off after placing it on a nozzle.
211
One of the advantages to using natural casings is that they are traditional in appearance and texture. Furthermore, they cook easily and are tolerant to treatments.
Natural casings readily permit deep smoke penetration.

Natural casings have excellent characteristics of elasticity and tensile strength, to
allow for high-efciency production and expansion during lling.
Natural casings protect the ne avor of sausage, without contributing any
conicting avoring of their own.
Sausage in natural casing has that special snap and tender bite thats like
no man-made product and is highly demanded by todays knowledgeable
consumers.
Sausage in natural casings stays tender and juicy.
However, this type of casing also has disadvantages. They are not uniform, not all
the same size, nor all the same width. Some are more fragile than others. Moreover, these
usually cost more than manufactured casings.
sheep casings
There are three sizes of sheep casings. These casings are made from the small intestine, and are approximately 58 to 1 in/1.50 to 3 cm in diameter, about the size of your
thumb. These are bought in a unit of measure called a hank (300 ft/91 m) and are
normally used for foods like breakfast links, frankfurters, Swiss bratwurst, and beer
sticks. Swiss bratwurst might use the larger size of the sheep casing. To stuff, youll
need 4 ft/1.22 m per 1 lb/454 g of product.
Sheep casings come in two grades: Grade A has no holes and is great for emulsions; Grade B has some holes and is good for coarse-ground sausages.
hog casings
These casings are also made from the small intestine but from the hog. The casing
is approximately 1 to 1 in/3 to 4 cm in diameter and ts over three ngertips.
They are also bought in a hank (300 ft/91 m). These casings are generally used for
Italian sausage, knockwurst, and pork sausage (rope sausage), as well as fresh German
bratwurst. You need 2 ft/61 cm of casing per 1 lb/454 g of product.
hog middles (chitterlings)

They are bought as a set (27 ft/8.24 m, 2 in/55 to 60 mm in diameter) and are used
in traditional sausages like sopressata, mettwurst, and black pudding.
hog bung casings

Hog bung is one of the casings typically used for larger sausages. The size is 2 in/5 cm
and up, while the length is approximately 4 ft/1.2 m.
212
SAUSAGES
Natural casings, from left to right:

sheep, hog, beef middle, beef
round, beef bung
beef round
Made from the small intestine of the cow, these casings are approximately 1316 to 178
in/3.5 to 4.6 cm in diameter, and t over three extended ngers. Unlike the other casings mentioned so far, these casings are generally bought in a unit of measure called
a set (100 ft/30.5 m). They are most commonly used for kielbasa, ring liverwurst, and
blood sausage. You need 15 in/38 cm of casing per 1 lb/454 g of product.
beef middles
These casings are different from the others in that they are made from the cows large
intestine, and are approximately 1 to 2 in/4.5 to 6.5 cm or more in diameter, and
t over four extended ngers. Beef middles are bought in a unit of measure called
a set, which in this case is 57 ft/17.37 m. These casings are most commonly used
for salamis and summer sausages. You need 9 in/23 cm of casing per 1 lb/454 g
of product.
beef bung
Made from the appendix, this casing is 4 to 8 in/10 to 20 cm in diameter, and ts over
a whole arm. Unlike most casings, its bought by the piece. This casing is commonly
used for mortadella, bologna, and capacolla. It can hold 18 to 35 lb/8.16 to 15.88 kg
of product.
articial casings
Articial casings are impermeable brous casings that are treated with an internal
moisture barrier of plastic wrap. They offer the advantage of a gas and moisture barrier while maintaining the appearance of an uncoated brous casing. Sausages made
with articial casings have a longer shelf life, decreased product moisture loss, and
increased microbiological protection.
213
These casings can be water cooked or steam cooked, which provides a more efcient heat transfer than typical smokehouse processes. Also, for smaller processors, the
capital investment for water tanks, necessary for water or steam cooking, is dramatically lower than smokehouses.
Use of the RSD reduces a need for exibility of the casing. If overstuffed, the
sausage will expand during cooking, but the casing must have the capacity to follow
and stretch, An overstuffed/overstretched casing could expand too much and then
burst or cause peeling problems.
edible collagen casings

Edible collagen casings are made from the corium layer of the cattle hide. The raw
material is treated and extruded as a tube. Edible collagen casings make a strong argument against natural casings: They have uniformity, tenderness, stufng performance,
and easier production planning. Edible casings are made to fulll customized needs.
The bite of edible collagen casings is inuenced by drying and smoking. Processing
the sausage in these ways will result in toughness. Thus, the right addition of relative
humidity helps to produce a tender bite.
Prior to using, collagen casings (except for those with a small diameter size) are
to be soaked or ushed for 20 to 30 minutes in warm water (78F/26C) with 10 to
15 percent salt concentration. This will improve the elasticity and machinability of
the casings.
nonedible articial casings

These are shaped and formed to specication. They are normally used by commercial producers, and are usually some sort of plastic or cloth, though there are many
other materials that can be used. They may be spice lined. They are usually removed
before packaging, as in the case of hot dogs.
CELLULOSE SAUSAGE CASING
These casings are manufactured from a straight-chain polysaccharide found as the

primary component of wood and also from straw and cotton. These casings are
nonedible and are to be peeled off before eating.
Fibrous cellulose casings are formed by adding regenerated cellulose bers to allow for increased water vapor and smoke permeability. These casings are to be soaked
for 15 to 30 minutes before they are stuffed to improve exibility, which allows them
to be stuffed to their proper diameter. The consistent uniformity of size makes the
brous casing ideal for all types of sliced sausage products, including bologna, cooked
salami, and other smoked cold-cut meat products.
SKINLESS CASINGS
Skinless casings are the most widely used articial casings. They are called skinless casings because the casing is peeled off from the sausage prior to packaging. The casing is
used to give sausages uniformity of size and weight and is additionally needed to help
develop a meaty sausage skin.
214
SAUSAGES
The casing is made of cotton or wood pulp bers, which are transformed by a
chemical process into a viscose solution. The viscose is then extruded into the shape
of a tube. Further chemical processing steps result in a regenerated cellulose casing
an articial sausage casing of regenerated cellulose adapted to be shirred and stuffed
with meat, produced by annularly extruding viscose into a tubular product having a
dried wall thickness of less than about 0.90 mm, regenerating and coagulating the tubular product for sufcient time and conditions to retard the rate of viscose regeneration to coagulation to form a casing product, wherein the casing has a wall thickness
less than about 0.90 mm and has a skin cross-sectional area wall structure in which
the skin comprises at least 20 percent of the cross-sectional area of the casing wall,
said casing having a plasticizer content of less than 14 percent based on the weight
of the casing.
Skinless casings are shirred and ready to stuff. No premoisturizing is required
before stufng. The casing does not have to be soaked rst.
Skinless casings are available as standard or with a peeling agent to increase the
peelability, if required. The peeling agents commonly used are called RP and EP.
NONEDIBLE COLLAGEN CASINGS
Collagen casings are made as straight (middles) and curved (rounds) casings. These
casings are considered to be inedible because of the thicker wall, which is hard to
chew.
They are made stronger so that they have good machinability and can be stuffed
tight. Nonedible collagen casings are also made in different manners for applications
like dry sausage, semidry sausage, and cooked sausage. For dry and cooked sausage
they are used in large quantities, especially for mold-coated, fermented, and dry sausages. Nonedible collagen casings should be presoaked in a 10 to 15 percent brine
solution to have the best possible stufng performance. These casings are still used in
Eastern European markets. In Western Europe, these casings allow the mold to form
on the outside and some will be treated so the mold forms easier. These casings have
a natural look, good smoke acceptance, and high permeability.
FIBROUS CASINGS
Fibrous casings are manufactured using the viscose process: wood cellulose is solubilized and treated, so viscose is formed. The viscose is then used to impregnate into a
special lament paper as it is being formed into a tube. This coated tube moves into a
bath, which regenerates the original cellulose.
Fibrous casings are the toughest casings produced, and they are used where maximum uniformity of the nished product diameter, be it sausage or smoked meat, is
desired. The uniformity of product stuffed in these casings makes them ideal for slicing for prepackaging.
Fibrous casings are made by forming a tube from a specic grade of paper, impregnating the paper with cellulose, and sealing the seam with viscose. Fibrous casings
are advanced because of their strength, uniformity, machinability, and technological
performance.
215
The advantages of using brous casings are:
Excellent size uniformity, giving uniform product and increased yields

Consistent casing color due to a controlled dyeing process
Availability of a wide range of colors
Can be printed, clipped, string tied, cut, and shirred
Nonrefrigerated storage
Permeability to smoke and moisture
Strength
Fibrous casings need to be soaked before stufng. They can also be purchased
premoisturized and ready to stuff.
IMPERMEABLE FIBROUS CASINGS
Impermeable brous casings are available with inside or outside moisture barrier coating. Additional to the moisture barrier the casings have a different appearance from
the nal product. The moisture barrier does not allow moisture to enter the sausage
or if outside does not allow it to leave the casing. The distinction between regular and
impermeable brous casings is based on the application and the type of sausage.
INSIDE-COATED CASINGS
These casings develop a consistent pressure on the sausage product during cooking
because of the uncoated cellulose surface on the outside. Depending on the mix, this
helps to prevent gel separation to a certain extent. After processing, the sausage needs
to be cooled by showering. This is because the cellulose surface on the outside needs
to be relaxed by water to avoid breakage. The casing has a dull appearance.
OUTSIDE-COATED CASINGS
These casings have the moisture barrier on the outside. The casings are used for products that do not release much moisture during cooking because no gel forms under
the surface. These casings need less showering after cooking because they do not need
to be relaxed.
PLASTIC CASING
Plastic casings are mostly used for cooked sausage, liver sausage, blood sausage, and
cooked-in-ham products. This means items like ham or ham-style products are cooked
inside the plastic casing. The plastic casings are advanced because of the barrier functions. They are multilayered for a high barrier to moisture and oxygen to maximize
shelf life. The variety of plastic casings is large because of requirements, extrusion
technology, and the different plastic raw materials. These are used for products that
require the use of pressure stuffers and are possibly made into large sizes.
216
SAUSAGES
SPICE-LINED CASINGS
These are plastic casings with a coarse spice mixture coating the inside of the casing.
Once the sausage is cooked and the casing removed, the spices will remain on the
outside of the sausage.
PROTEIN-LINED CASINGS
A protein coating on the inside of these casings gives them the ability to cling to the
meat as it is shrinking. Soak 20 to 30 minutes before using.
LAMINATED CASINGS
There are dry and semidry versions of these casings. They are used for their uniform
size and embedded strings. Laminates are engineering materials made from layers
of brous reinforcement, such as cotton cloth, paper, or woven glass cloth, which
are bonded together with high-quality plastic resins. The layers are pressed together
under high pressure and the resin is baked until it becomes solid, fusing the material
into a tough, strong, and dense material.
NOVELTY CASINGS
Novelty casings are sewn natural, brous, or collagen casings that are made into various shapes, whether they are animals, sports items, beer bottles, or something else.
Synthetic casings are made from
a variety of food-grade materials,
some edible and some not, and
may be colored, lined with herbs,
or may impart a particular avor to
the sausage.
217
preparing casings
unpacking casings bought in hanks

Handle hanks of casings carefully so as not to tangle the individual casings.
1.
Carefully unwind a hank out onto a table in serpentine fashion (lay out from
one side of the table to the other, so all the casing ts on the table).
2.
Untie the ring from one end of the hank and carefully untangle one strand of
casing at a time. Do not pull the casings too hard or they may knot.
3.
Wind each strand around four ngers and seal by wrapping an end around the
bundle and tucking it in.
4.
Store in a pan, covered with salt, in the refrigerator until needed.
preparing casing bought in hanks

Larger nonedible casings are secured with a metal clip called (hog rings); they are applied with pliers made for the rings to crimp the ends tightly, sealing the meat in. This
is used instead of string. To prepare the casings,
1.
2.
3.
4.
Weigh the product to be stuffed.

Measure the proper amount of casings.
Reconstitute in warm water.
Place casing on stuffer. Fill casing, then pinch and tie or pinch and twist.
preparing casings bought in sets
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Flush the inside of the casing with clean lukewarm water; repeat the process.
8.
Stuff, then tie end with a bubble knot.
Measure the proper amount of casing.

Cut the casing to the desired length, usually stated in the recipe.
Reconstitute in warm water (100F/38C), change the water, and repeat
the process.
Tie one end of the casing in a bubble knot.

Moisten the correct size nozzle of the sausage stuffer with water and apply the
casing to the nozzle.
preparing beef bung
1.
218
SAUSAGES
Lay out the casings and remove

any knots before forming them into
smaller bundles.
Natural casings should be rewound

from their original groups to make
smaller bundles that are easier to
handle and store.
To prepare casings for use, ush

them with water to remove all residual salt and impurities.
Fit the casings onto the end of the

feeder tube of the sausage stuffer,
keeping the nozzle lubricated with
water to prevent the casing from
sticking and tearing.
Rewound casings should be

packed in salt and refrigerated until
needed.
219
2.
3.
Use either a whole or half bung.
4.
5.
Flush the inside of the casing with clean lukewarm water; repeat the process.
6.
7.
Moisten the correct size nozzle with water and apply the casing.
Reconstitute in warm water (100F/38C), change the water, and repeat

the process.
If you cut the beef bung in two, tie one end of each cut piece closed using a
bubble knot.
Stuff. Tie end using bubble knot.

CASING NOTES
Natural casings are available through most meat purveyors.

The larger the casing, the thicker the walls.
The larger the casing, the longer it takes to reconstitute.
When packed in salt, shelf life is one year or more.
When you dry and smoke the sausage, it dries the casing and makes it harder.
Moisture and heat soften the casing as you process it.
You need to condition a casing to accept smoke; get the casing to be tacky and
follow the process for smoking. It cannot be too wet or it will turn dull gold in
appearance. (When the pellicle forms, it becomes a little tacky so the smoke can
adhere to it.)
The size and type of casing used depend on what sausage product is made.
sausage making: grinding and mixing

The basic grind procedure for sausage making is as follows:
1. SANITIZE AND CHILL EQUIPMENT.
Helps keep products cold

Helps prevent fat smear
Helps prevent bacterial growth
2. WEIGH THE MEAT AND FAT.
220
Usually 70 percent lean, 30 percent fat

Follow the proportion given in the recipe
SAUSAGES
3. WEIGH THE SEASONINGS.
Mix in with the meat

Mix now for better distribution
Salt starts to solubilize proteins
4. REFRIGERATE OR PARTIALLY FREEZE.
Cold meat grinds better than warm

Cold meat has less elasticity
Semifrozen is ideal
5. ASSEMBLE THE GRINDER.

6. GRIND THE MEAT INTO A CHILLED CONTAINER.
Do not force meat into the grinder

Problems are caused by:
Improper grinder assembly

Dull grinder knife
Meat or equipment too warm
7. ADD ICE OR COLD LIQUID.
Usually 1 lb/454 g per 10 lb/4.54 kg of meat

Replenishes moisture lost in processing
Helps to disperse seasonings
Helps to solubilize proteins
8. MIX.
Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute

Mix on speed #2 for 15 to 30 seconds, until sticky
Overmixing will cause loss of
Texture
Grain denition
9. TASTE A SAMPLE.
Poach a taste tester wrapped in plastic wrap in 170F/77C water

Seasoning is easier to x before stufng
10. STUFF.
Into reconstituted casings

Shape into patties or logs and wrap in caul fat or plastic wrap
Place into molds
221
To properly tie a bubble knot, secure the casing at one end with a
simple knot, then fold the overhanging casing back over the knot and
secure it in place with another knot.
Remove any air bubbles trapped

inside the casing with a teasing
needle.
Steps of the aging process, from left to right:

fresh stuffed, 3 weeks, 6 weeks
All sausages should be properly

labeled and dated for monitoring
during the aging process.
Larger sausages should be secured with a second bubble knot.
emulsion forcemeats
In reference to meat, emulsication is a homogeneous blending of ground or chopped
meats, fat, and ice into a uniform suspension. In forcemeat and sausage preparation,
salt acts as the primary emulsifying agent. Sometimes additives are used to stabilize the
emulsion, bind excess water, and have stabilizers or phosphates mix properly. Water in
the form of ice is used to keep the temperature down and prevent fat separation.
A typical emulsion forcemeat will always contain ve parts meat, four parts fat,
and three parts ice, by weight, hence the name 5/4/3.
method for emulsied-type sausage

Chill the meat if possible between the grinding and chopping steps to compensate for
heat added by grinding.
1. Sanitize and chill all metal equipment that will touch the meat and fat.
Temperature control is important.
2. Trim and weigh the meat(s) and fat.

3. Cut the meat(s) into 1-in/3-cm cubes; chill or partially freeze.
4. Cut the fat into 1-in/3-cm cubes; chill or partially freeze.
5. Grind the fat with the ne plate; chill.
6. Mix the salt, TCM (if using; not all emulsied sausages require TCM), dextrose
(if using), and other seasonings with the meat; grind through the ne plate.
7. Place the meat in a Stephan cutter or other suitable food chopper. Add ice.
8. Process the meat and ice until the mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C
or lower. Continue processing until the temperature rises to 40F/4C.
9. At 40F/4C, add fat and continue processing until the temperature is

between 45 and 50F/7 and 10C.
10. Add nonfat dry milk and continue processing until the temperature is
58F/14C.
11. Cook a taste tester, check the binding and the avor, adjust the seasoning if
necessary.
12. Process into the desired sausage product.

stufng the casing
The following method describes the procedure for lling sausage casings using a sausage-stufng machine.
1.
ASSEMBLE AND FILL THE SAUSAGE STUFFER PROPERLY. Keep the nozzle of your
stuffer as well as the work table lubricated with a bit of water as you work to
prevent the casing from sticking and tearing. Be sure that all parts of the sausage
stuffer that will come in contact with the forcemeat are clean and chilled. Fill
the stuffer with the sausage meat, tamping it down well to remove any pockets.
223
2.
3.
PRESS THE SAUSAGE INTO THE PREPARED CASING. Gather the open end of the
casing over the nozzle of the sausage stuffer. Press the sausage into the casing (if
you are using a hand stuffer or piping the sausage into the casing, slide the open
end over the nozzle of the hand stuffer or over the tip of the piping bag). Support
the casing as the forcemeat is expressed through the nozzle and into the casing.
TWIST OR TIE THE SAUSAGE INTO THE APPROPRIATE SHAPE. If the sausage is to be
made into links, use either of the following methods: Press the casing into links
at the desired intervals and then twist the link in alternating directions for each
link, or tie the casing with twine at the desired intervals. Larger sausages should
be secured with a bubble knot (see page 222), to allow the sausage to expand as
it cooks. After the sausage has been formed into links, loops, or other shapes,
pierce the casing with a teasing needle, sausage makers knife, or similar tool to
allow the air bubbles to escape (see page 222).
nishing and storing sausages

After being prepared (that is stuffed, cooked if needed, cooled, then packaged in containers, wrapped or sealed, weighed, and labeled), fresh sausages should be stored
under refrigeration and used as soon as possible. They may also be wrapped well and
frozen for 2 to 3 months. Sausages such as fresh kielbasa, Italian sausage with roasted
peppers, Italian hot sausage, breakfast sausage, and liverwurst need to be poached
and can be cold-smoked afterwards. Blood sausage is another example of a product
that would need to be poached and then cooled before storage. Frankfurters are an
example of a product that would need to be hot-smoked to temperature and then
cooled completely before storing. Chorizo sausage requires cold-smoking and then
drying before it is ready to be held for serving or sale. Chorizo must then be cooked
before consuming. Salami and other raw products have three basic maturation stages:
curing, incubation, and drying/ripening. Each stage requires different temperatures
and relative humidity for its environment.
curing stage
When you add the curing salts to the meat, the curing stage has begun. At this point,
along with the salt, seasonings are added to the meat and fat. Chill the product well
or allow it to become semifrozen, grind it, and then allow the forcemeat to cure for at
least 2 days (24 to 48 hours) to ensure the safety of the product. After the curing stage
is complete, stuff the forcemeat into the proper casings.
incubation stage
The next stage is the incubation stage. The sausage must be kept in a dark controlled
environment with a relative humidity of 75 to 85 percent and an ambient temperature of 70F/21C for another 24 to 48 hours.
224
SAUSAGES
drying/ripening stage
The drying/ripening process is the nal phase. Again, the sausage is kept in a cool,
dry environment with a relative humidity of 50 to 60F/10 to 16C. This phase
can take up to 8 months. During this time the sausage may lose up to 50 percent of
its weight due to water loss and mold may build up on the casings; but not to worry
this is a natural and expected part of the process.
smoking sausages
Sausage is smoked and heated in order to pasteurize it and extend its shelf life, as well
as to impart a smoky avor and improve its appearance. Smoking and heating also
x the color and cause protein to move to the surface of the sausage so it will hold its
shape when the casing is removed. See Chapter 6 for more information on smoking.
Let the sausage dry to form pellicle. To form a pellicle, use a refrigerator with a
lot of air movement; 60 to 70 percent humidity is good. Smoke at 120F/49C for 1
hour, then at 130F/66C for 2 hours more, and nally at 165F/77C for 2 hours or
until an internal temperature of 155F/68C is reached. Remove the sausage from
the smokehouse and spray it with warm water for 15 to 30 seconds. Follow this with a
cold shower or dip it in a slush tanka tank or a container that contains some water
and plenty of iceuntil the internal temperature reaches 100F/38C. Let it dry for
1 to 2 hours, then place it in a cooler.
poaching sausages
Poached sausage, sometimes called cold cuts, is prepared by the same method as other
raw sausages. The difference is that after lling the casings, the sausages are poached
in warm water. Sometimes the sausage, such as French garlic sausage, mortadella, and
bratwurst, is smoked before being poached. This gives them a better color and aroma.
After stufng the ground ingredients into the casings, place the sausage in a pan
of warm water. Heat the water to 160 to 170F/71 to 77C and hold it at that
temperature until the sausage reaches an internal temperature of 155F/68C. An
instant-read thermometer is essential for obtaining the proper temperature. The water should not boil, as this will ruin the product.
The sausages are then placed into a slush tank to cool down to 100F/38C.
After taking the sausages out of the ice water, hang them on sausage sticks to dry.
drying sausages
dry and semidry sausages

Dry sausages may or may not be characterized by a bacterial fermentation. When
fermented, the intentional encouragement of lactic-acid bacteria growth is useful as
a meat preservative as well as producing the typical tangy avor. The ingredients are
mixed with spices and curing materials, stuffed into casings, and put through a carefully controlled, long, continuous air-drying process.
Dry sausages require more production time than other types of sausages, which
results in a concentrated form of meat. Medium-dry sausage is about 70 percent of
225
its green weight when sold. Green weight is the weight of the raw article before
the addition of added substances or before cooking. Less dry and fully dried sausages
range from 60 to 80 percent of the original weight at completion. The temperature is
usually around 50 to 60F/10 to 16C, and the humidity is around 70 percent.
Dry sausages include:
Dry sausage assortment
226
Frizzes (similar to pepperoni but not smoked)

Pepperoni (not cooked but air-dried)
SAUSAGES
Lola or Lolita and Lyons sausage (mildly seasoned pork with garlic)
Genoa salami (Italian, usually made from pork but may have a small amount of
beef; it is moistened with wine or grape juice and seasoned with garlic)
Semidry sausages are usually heated in the smokehouse to cook the product fully
and partially dry it. Semidry sausages are semisoft sausages with good keeping qualities because of their lactic-acid fermentation. Summer sausage (another word for
cervelat) is the general classication for mildly seasoned, smoked, semidry sausages
like Lebanon bologna.
fermented sausages
Fermented sausages such as summer sausage, Landjger, dry-cured Genoa salami,
and California spicy sopressata are typically made from beef or pork, water, salt, curing agents, and sugar. Often a starter culture is added to the mixture (especially for
semi-dry sausage) to increase the amount of friendly bacteria that will carry out the
fermentation process in the meat. It is imperative to use pork that is labeled certied, to
be certain that it is trichinosis-free (see the table on Certifying Pork via Freezing on
page 63). The certied pork is used to ensure that there is no trichinosis in the pork.
alternate periods of freezing at temperatures

indicated
MAXIMUM INTERNAL
TEMPERATURE
MINIMUM INTERNAL
TEMPERATURE
TIME
32F/0C
18F/8C
106 hours
41F/5C
21F/6C
82 hours
50F/10C
23F/5C
63 hours
59F/15C
26F/3C
48 hours
68F/20C
29F/2C
35 hours
77F/25C
32F/0C
22 hours
86F/30C
35F/2C
8 hours
95F/35C
37C/3C
hour
During the production of fermented sausage, it is important to inhibit or eliminate the growth of bacteria that can cause spoilage. While they age, keep the sausages
in a climate-controlled environment. The sausages will become rm during the aging
process due to the lactic acid. When you incubate the sausage, you are providing the
environment for the bacteria to produce given the temperature and time. Here is
when you develop the tangy avor we associate with fermented sausage.
227
common types of sausage

SAUSAGE
DESCRIPTION
CLASSIFICATION
CASING
USED
ANDOUILLE
Pork, spicy, cured, semidry. Medium texture
Smoked,
uncooked
Sheep
casing
BLOOD SAUSAGE
Contains blood, spices, pork jowl, nely ground meat,

sometimes cooked rice or other grain. National varieties
include French (boudin noir), German (blutwurst),
Italian (sanguinaccio), Polish (kiszka), Spanish
(morcilla)
Cooked
Hog and
beef middle
BOCKWURST
Contains veal, pork, milk, chives, parsley. Has a ne

texture
Fresh, cooked
Sheep
casing
BOLOGNA
Contains cured beef and pork, nely ground with spices
Cooked,
smoked
Beef middle
or beef
bung
BRATWURST
Contains pork or pork and veal, seasoned, nely

emulsied or fresh cooked, or medium-grind textures.
First cured, then smoked
Smoked
Hog casing
BRAUNSCHWEIGER
Contains liver, meat, smoked meats, all nely ground.

One of many varieties of liverwurst
Cooked
Beef middle
or beef
bung
BREAKFAST
Contains seasoned pork, ne to medium grind.

Commonly found in links or patties. Has many
seasoning variations
Fresh
Sheep
casing
CERVELAT
Contains pork, or beef and pork, all medium to coarse

grind. Mildly seasoned, cured, then smoked. One of
many varieties of summer sausage
Semidry
Beef or hog
middle
CHIPOLATA
Contains pork or pork and veal. Mildly seasoned. A very

ne emulsion, giving it a mousse-like texture. Made in
cocktail-size link
Cooked
Sheep
casing
CHORIZO
Contains coarse-textured pork. Highly spiced. Cured,

then smoked. Has many regional and national varieties:
Mexican, Colombian, Portuguese, Spanish
Smoked,
uncooked
Hog casing
FRANKFURTERS,
HOT DOGS,
WIENERS
Usually contains beef and pork or all beef, now chicken

or turkey. May be cured, smoked, or cooked. A ne
emulsied texture. Well seasoned. Many variations of
seasonings and sizes
Cooked,
smoked
Sheep
casing
FRENCH GARLIC
Contains cured pork, fat, and spices. Has a predominant

garlic avor. Can be cooked or smoked. Many regional
varieties: saucisse de Lyon, saucisson l`ail; also
called Lyonerwurst, Jagdwurst
Cooked,
smoked
Beef middle
228
SAUSAGES
common types of sausage

HEAD CHEESE,
SOUSE
Contains diced cooked pork head meat in concentrated

jellied stock, avored with vinegar, garnished with
pickles, pimentos, parsley. Can be cooked or cured
Cooked meat
specialty
No casing
ITALIAN
Contains coarsely ground pork. Hot Italian sausage

is highly seasoned; sweet Italian sausage is mildly
seasoned
Fresh
Hog casing
KIELBASA,
POLISH SAUSAGE,
KALBASSI,
COLBASI
Contains pork or pork and beef. Has a ne, emulsied,

or medium texture
Cooked, smoked
or uncooked,
cured
Beef round
KNOCKWURST
Contains beef and pork or all beef, seasoned similar to

frankfurters. Can be cured, smoked, or cooked. Has a
ne emulsied texture
Cooked,
smoked
Hog casing
LANDJGER
Contains pork and beef. Has a medium texture. Usually

cured and dried A attened shape. Many varieties.
Name means land soldier: was a carry-along sausage
Semidry
Sheep or
hog casing
LEBERKSE,
BAVARIAN LOAF
Contains a bologna mix, beef and pork, sometimes veal.

Can be baked in a loaf pan
Cooked meat
specialty
No casing;
loaf pan or
mold
LIVERWURST
Contains liver, other fresh or smoked meats. Finely

ground. Hildesheimer is the most famous kind
Cooked
Beef middle
or beef
bung
MORTADELLA
Contains nely emulsied pork, garnish of diced fat,

and pistachios. Many variations. An Italian specialty
sausage
Cooked
Beef middle
or beef
bung (cap)
SALAMI
Contains pork or pork and beef, which is cured. Highly

seasoned with fermented avor. Medium texture. It is
air-dried. There are many varieties of this sausage
Dry, fermented
Beef bung
cap or
articial
SCRAPPLE
Contains cornmeal and ground pork cooked prior to

stufng. Made into loaves or bricks
Cooked meat
specialty
No casing:
loaf pan or
mold
TUSCAN
Contains coarsely ground pork. Seasoned with cheese

and tomatoes
Fresh or cooked
Hog casing
WEISSWURST
Contains pork and veal. Mildly seasoned. Has a

ne emulsied texture. A white sausage similar to
bockwurst
Cooked
Sheep or
hog casing
229
breakfast sausage
MAKES 9 LB/4.08 KG
8 lb/3.63 kg boneless pork

butt, 75/25, cleaned, cut
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g poultry seasoning
12 oz/340 g ice-cold water
16 ft/5 m prepared
sheep casings, or as
needed (optional)
1.
2.
In a mixing bowl, combine the pork, salt, pepper, and poultry seasoning.
Grind the meat once through the 16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl over
an ice bath.
3. Transfer the meat to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the water and
mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is sticky, 15
to 30 seconds.
4.
5.
Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
To make bulk sausage, place 1 lb/454 g of sausage meat on plastic wrap,

roll it up, twist the ends of the plastic wrap tightly, and tuck the ends under. The
diameter of the nished sausage roll should be 2 in/6 cm.
6. For link sausages, place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there
are no air pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist
into 5-in/13-cm lengths. Cut the sausages apart at the twists.
7. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week and can be
frozen for up to 1 month.
230
SAUSAGES
breakfast sausage with

applesauce
MAKES 12 LB/5.44 KG
pork butt, cleaned, cut
2 lb/64 g pork fatback,
1 cup/240 mL
onion akes, toasted
oz/14 g
poultry seasoning
oz/9 g ground
white pepper
1 lb 7 oz/652 g
unsweetened
applesauce, chilled
Fresh white bread
crumbs, as needed
Bacon fat, as needed
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt, fatback, onion akes, salt, poultry
seasoning, and pepper.
2.
Progressively grind the mixture from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the applesauce and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is
sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Divide into 2-oz/57-g portions and form into patties in/1 cm thick.
Coat with fresh bread crumbs and pan fry in bacon fat.
The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week and can be
Note: To make bulk sausage, place 1 lb/454 g of sausage meat on plastic wrap, roll it up,
twist the ends of the plastic wrap tightly, and tuck the ends under. The diameter of the
nished sausage roll should be 2 in/6 cm.
Variations: For link sausages, place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there
are no air pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 5-in/13cm lengths. Cut the sausages apart at the twists.
When making sausage patties, a

wrapping of caul fat keeps the patties shape, then melts away during
cooking.
Italian Sausage with Roasted Peppers
232
italian sausage with

roasted peppers

oz/21 g coarsely
ground black pepper
oz/21 g fennel seeds
oz/14 g dextrose
oz/7 g sweet
Spanish paprika
GARNISH
1 lb/454 g red bell peppers

1 lb/454 g green
bell peppers
8 oz/227 g Spanish
onions, diced
Olive oil, as needed
4 tsp/20 mL chopped
fresh basil
7 to 8 ft/ 2.13 to 2.44 m

prepared hog casings,
or as needed
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt, salt, pepper, fennel seeds, dextrose,
and paprika. Place the mixture in resealable plastic bags, press out all the air,
and partially freeze.
2. Grind the meat once through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing
bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the ground meat to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the
water and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the
meat is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover,
and refrigerate.
4.
Roast the red and green peppers over an open ame until tender. Wrap the
peppers in plastic wrap and cool to room temperature. Peel the peppers, discard
the seeds, and cut in -in/1-cm dice. Reserve under refrigeration.
5. Saut the onions in oil over high heat to brown them slightly, making sure
they are cooked until they are transparent. Cool and reserve with the peppers.
6. Fold the peppers, onions, and basil into the meat mixture by hand so that the
peppers and onions dont break up, but the mixture needs to be mixed very well.
7.
8.
Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 5-in/13-cm
lengths.
9. Refrigerate the sausages for about 30 minutes.

10. Cut the sausages apart at the twists.
11. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week and can
be frozen up to 1 month.
233
hot italian sausage

MAKES 11 LB/4.99 KG
pork butt, 75/25, cleaned,
1 oz/35 g red
pepper akes
1 oz/35 g
granulated sugar
1 oz/28 g dextrose
oz/21 g fennel seeds
oz/21 g hot
Spanish paprika
oz/21 g sweet
Hungarian paprika
oz/14 g ground coriander
oz/14 g coarsely
ground black pepper
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt, salt, pepper akes, sugar, dextrose,
fennel seeds, paprikas, coriander, black pepper, and cayenne.
2. Place in resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and chill the mixture
thoroughly or partially freeze.
3. Grind the meat once through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing
4. Transfer the ground meat to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the
water and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is
5.
6.
lengths. Cut the sausages apart at the twists.
8 oz/3.50 g cayenne
2 cups/480 mL
ice-cold water
12 to 14 ft/3.66 to
4.27 m prepared hog
casings, or as needed
234
SAUSAGES
fresh kielbasa
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG
2 tbsp/30 mL yellow
mustard seeds, crushed
2 tsp/12.5 mL ground
black pepper
1 tsp/7.5 mL
ground allspice
1 tsp/5 mL marjoram
tsp/2.5 mL celery salt
3 cups/720 mL
ice-cold water
12 to 13 ft/ 3.66 to
4.00 m prepared beef round
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork, salt, mustard seeds, pepper, allspice,
garlic powder, marjoram, and celery salt. Place in resealable plastic bags, press
out all the air, and partially freeze.
2. Grind the pork through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing bowl
over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add the water.
Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is sticky, 15
to 30 seconds.
4.
Cut the beef round casings into 18- to 20-in/46- to 51-cm lengths. Tie a
bubble knot at one end of each casing, making sure you have extra string left to
tie the ends together when stuffed.
5. Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air
pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings and prick all air bubbles before tying
a bubble knot in the open end to seal the sausage. Tie the two ends together to
form a circle.
6.
The sausage may be poached, grilled, or sauted to an internal temperature

of 150F/66C. Store under refrigeration.
235
kielbasa krakowska
Krakowska is made from fresh ham. Hams are boned and the lean meat is kept
separate.
MAKES 15 LB/6.80 KG
fresh ham, cleaned
3 lb/1.36 kg 1 tsp/5 mL
2 lb/907 g pork jowl
fat, cleaned
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
2 tbsp/30 mL dextrose
2 oz/57 g garlic powder
white pepper
1 tsp/5 mL ground
coriander
2 tbsp/30 mL dry mustard
tsp/2.50 mL
dried marjoram
1 qt/960 mL ice-cold water
8 to 10 ft/ 2.44 to 3 m
prepared beef middle
1. Cut 5 lb/2.27 kg of the ham into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Reserve under refrigeration.
2. Cut the remaining 5 lb/2.27 kg ham into - to -in/1- to 2-cm cubes.
Reserve under refrigeration.
3.
4.
Combine the pork butt, larger ham pieces, and jowl fat. Mix well.
Add the salt, Insta Cure, dextrose, garlic powder, pepper, coriander, mustard,
and marjoram. Place the meat in a freezer until semifrozen.
5. Progressively grind the meat mixture from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
6. Transfer the ground meat to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the water
and remaining cubed ham, and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed
#2 until the meat is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
7.
8.
Cut beef middle casings into 24-in/61-cm lengths and tie a bubble knot at the
end of each one.
9. Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air pockets.
Stuff into the prepared casings (should be stuffed until it is fairly rm) and prick all
the air bubbles before tying a bubble knot to seal, leaving enough string to make a
loop at each end so that the sausages can be hung from the hanging sticks.
10.
11.
Hang in a cooler overnight to air-dry and form a pellicle.
Hot-smoke at 120F/49C for about 1 hour. Use medium smoke and your
choice of wood.
12. Apply a medium smoke and increase the smoke temperature to 130F/54C
for about 1 hour.
13. Increase the smokehouse temperature to 160F/71C and maintain a
medium smoke. Keep the sausages in the smokehouse until they reach an internal
236
SAUSAGES
14. When the sausages are cooked, shock in an ice-water bath. Cool the
sausages to about 110F/43C.
15. Remove the sausages from the water and wipe dry. Hang the sausages in
the cooler overnight.
16. The sausages are now ready to eat or may be stored under refrigeration for
up to 1 week and can be frozen for up to 1 month.
southwest green chile

sausage
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG (ABOUT EIGHTY 2-OZ/57-G PATTIES)
2 lb/907 g pork belly,
skinned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
1 oz/28 g ground
white pepper
2 tbsp/30 mL dried oregano
2 tsp/10 mL chopped
fresh basil
2 tsp/10 mL Tabasco sauce
4 tsp/20 mL ground cumin
4 oz/113 g chili powder
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg green
chiles, seeded and chopped
1 cup/240 mL ice-cold water
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the cubed pork butt and belly, the pepper, salt,
oregano, basil, Tabasco sauce, cumin, chili powder, and chiles. Mix well.
2. Transfer the meat mixture to resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and
partially freeze.
3.
Grind the mixture through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm), then through a
16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl set over an ice bath.
4.
Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add the water.
Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the mixture is sticky,
15 to 30 seconds.
5.
6.
7.
Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning if needed.

Form the meat into patties and dredge them in cornmeal.
Fry the patties in oil until golden brown. Finish in a 350F/177C conventional oven to an internal temperature of 155F/68C.
8. The raw forcemeat may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 days, or up

to 1 week when cooked, and can be frozen for up to 1 month.
Cornmeal for dredging,

as needed
Oil, as needed
237
Blood Sausage
238
SAUSAGES
blood sausage
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG
5 lb/2.27 kg pork
jowl fat, cleaned
2 lb/1.13 kg beef
(or pork) tongue
2 lb/1.13 kg pork skin
1 lb/454 g tripe
1 lb 8 oz/680 g
cooked barley
3 tsp/17.50 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
1 tsp/6.25 mL
dried marjoram
2 cups/480 mL pork blood
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
7 to 8 ft/2.13 to 2.44 m
prepared beef
middle casings
1. In a stockpot, simmer the pork jowls, tongue, pork skin, and tripe in salted
water to cover until tender, at least 2 hours. Cool the meats in the liquid.
2. Drain the meats. Peel the tongue and cut the meats into 1-in/3-cm cubes.
Chill until the product is semifrozen.
3. Grind the meats through a 16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl over
an ice bath.
4. Transfer the meats to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add the cooked
barley, salt, onion powder, pepper, marjoram, allspice, blood, and Insta Cure.
Mix well.
5.
Cut the beef middle casings into 18-in/46-cm lengths and tie a bubble knot
at the end of each one.
6.
Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air pockets.
Stuff into the prepared casings (should be stuffed fairly rm) and prick all the air
bubbles before tying a bubble knot to seal, leaving enough string to make a loop
at each end so that the sausages can be hung from the sausage sticks.
7.
8.
Hang in a cooler overnight to air-dry and form a pellicle.
Poach the sausages in 160F/71C water to an internal temperature of

152F/67C.
9. Remove the sausages from the water and shower them with cool water
or place in an ice-water bath until the internal temperature is reduced
to 110F/43C.
10.
11.
Hold the sausages under refrigeration for at least 24 hours before using.
The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week or frozen

up to 1 month.
239
tuscan sausage
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY 4-IN/10-CM SAUSAGES)
4 tsp/22.50 mL
ground black pepper
4 tsp/20 mL minced garlic
4 oz/113 g
mozzarella, cubed
1 cups/300 mL sundried tomatoes, drained
5 tbsp/75 mL fresh basil,
washed and chopped
2 cups/480 mL port wine
8 ft/ 2.44 m prepared hog
1.
Grind the meat through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing bowl set
over an ice bath.
2. Add the salt, pepper, garlic, mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil and mix well.
Transfer the mixture to resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and partially
freeze.
3.
Grind the mixture through a 16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl set over
an ice bath.
4. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the port and
mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is sticky, 15
to 30 seconds.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Chill the sausages overnight at 39F/3C to allow the avors to blend.
lengths and tie with string.
Gently poach the sausages in 160 to 170F/71 to 77C salted water to an

9. The raw forcemeat may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 days. After
they are cooked, the sausages can be frozen for up to 1 month.
240
SAUSAGES
spicy lamb sausage

MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG (ABOUT THIRTY-TWO 5-IN/13-CM LINKS)
lamb shoulder, cleaned
of fat and sinew, cut
fat, cleaned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
1 lb/454 g pancetta, cut
1 oz/43 g minced garlic
5 oz/142 g minced shallots
1 oz/28 g honey
8 oz/3.5 g ground
black pepper
1 tsp/8.75 mL crushed
red pepper akes
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the lamb meat, jowl fat, and pancetta. Mix in the
garlic, shallots, salt, Insta Cure, honey, black pepper, red pepper, paprika, coriander, thyme, parsley, and rosemary. Transfer the mixture to plastic storage bags
and place in a freezer until semifrozen.
2. Grind the mixture through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing
bowl set over an ice bath.
3.
Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and mix on speed
#1 for 1 minute, gradually adding the chicken stock. Mix on speed #2 until the
mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
4.
5.
Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning as necessary.
Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 5-in/13-cm links.
Cut apart at the twists.
6. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 days and can be
1 tsp/8.75 mL hot
Spanish paprika
2 tsp/10 mL ground
coriander
1 bunch thyme leaves,
coarsely minced
cup/120 mL chopped
at-leaf parsley
bunch rosemary,
coarsely chopped
1 cup/240 mL
ice-cold chicken stock
24 ft/7.32 m prepared hog
241
lamb and pine nut

sausage
MAKES 6 LB/2.72 KG (ABOUT THIRTY-TWO 3-OZ/85-G PATTIES)
lamb shoulder, cleaned
12 oz/340 g boneless
pork, 80/20, cleaned, cut
2 tsp/10 mL ground
white pepper
2 tsp/10 mL dried thyme
6 oz/170 g pine
nuts, toasted
cup/120 mL red
wine, chilled
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the lamb and pork with the pepper, garlic, salt,
thyme, oregano, and pine nuts; mix well. Transfer the mixture to plastic storage
bags and place in a freezer until semifrozen.
2. Progressively grind the meat mixture from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm)
through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add the wine
and water. Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then on speed #2 until the mixture is
4.
5.
Form the meat into patties. Dredge the patties in bread crumbs and fry in oil
until golden brown. Finish the patties by baking them in a 350F/177C conventional oven to an internal temperature of 155F/68C.
6.
The raw mixture can be refrigerated for 3 to 4 days. This mixture can also
be frozen for up to 1 week after the patties are cooked.
cup/60 mL ice-cold water

Fresh white bread
crumbs, as needed
Oil, as needed
242
SAUSAGES
morteau sausage
MAKES 5 LB/2.27 KG (ABOUT FORTY 4-IN/10-CM LINKS)
3 lb 12 oz/1.70 kg
boneless pork, lean, cut
fowl meat (such as poultry
or older hen), skinless,
oz/7 g ground
black pepper
Pinch of ground cumin
Pinch of ground nutmeg
1 oz/28 g shallot,
nely chopped
oz/9 g garlic,
nely chopped
1 cup/240 mL dry
white wine
3 to 4 ft/91 to 122 cm
or as needed
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork and fowl with the Insta Cure and salt.
Add the pepper, cumin, and nutmeg; mix well. Transfer to resealable plastic
bags and partially freeze.
2. Grind the meat through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing bowl
set over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
3. Simmer the shallot and garlic in the white wine with the lid on for 3 to
4 minutes to infuse the avor. Cool the mixture. Strain and squeeze the shallot
mixture through cheesecloth into a bowl, making sure to squeeze all the wine
and juices out. Discard the shallot and garlic.
4. Combine the nonfat dry milk with the reserved wine and add to the ground
meat.
5. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and mix on speed
#1 for 1 minute, then on speed #2 until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
6.
7.
Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 4-in/10-cm
8. Hang the sausages on sausage sticks, and dry under refrigeration for
12 hours to air-dry and form a pellicle.
9.
Cold-smoke the sausages for 12 to 14 hours. Morteau is traditionally smoked

over pine.
10.
The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 weeks and can
be frozen for up to 2 months.
243
buffalo wingstyle
sausages
MAKES 6 LB 8 OZ/2.95 KG (ABOUT FIFTY-TWO 2-IN/5-CM LINKS)
5 lb/2.27 kg chicken,
all thigh meat or
breast/ thigh,
boneless, skinless
1 lb 8 oz/680 g pork fatback
oz/14 g black pepper
5 tsp/25 mL cayenne
cup/120 mL
ice-cold water
2 tbsp/30 mL hot sauce,
preferably Franks
13 to 14 ft/3.96 to 4.27 m
prepared sheep casings,
or as needed
1.
Cut the chicken and fatback into 1-in/3 cm cubes. In a mixing bowl,
combine the meat and fat with the salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Transfer
mixture to plastic storage bags and semifreeze.
2. Grind the meat mixture through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a
mixing bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add the
water and hot sauce,. Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then on speed #2 until
4.
5.
Make a taste tester and adjust seasoning if necessary.
6.
Poach the sausages in 160 to 170F/71 to 77C salted water to an internal

7. Shock the sausages in an ice water bath until they drop to an internal temperature of 50F/10C.
8. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week; however,
they are best used fresh as soon as you make them.
244
SAUSAGES
weisswurst (munich
sausage)
MAKES 12 LB 8 OZ/5.67 KG (APPROXIMATELY SIXTY 4-IN/10-CM SAUSAGES)
4 lb/1.81 kg pork
jowl fat, cleaned
1 lb 8 oz/680 g boneless,
skinless chicken breast,
cut into 1-in/3-cm
cubes (see Note)
chicken thigh, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
2 lb/907 g boneless
pork butt, very lean, cut
2 oz/57 g dextrose
1 lb/454 g pork skins
1 cup/240 mL sliced
yellow onions
Butter, as needed
1 tbsp/15 mL nely
ground white pepper
tsp/2.50 mL
ground mace
1 tsp/5 mL nely
grated lemon zest
10 ft/3 m prepared hog
Milk, as needed
3 bay leaves
1 oignon piqu
1.
Cube the jowl fat and freeze. In a mixing bowl, combine the chicken and the
pork butt. Mix in the salt and dextrose. Transfer the meat to resealable plastic
bags and partially freeze.
2. Place the pork skins in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and
cook until tender, about 2 to 3 hours. Drain, shock, and cube, then set aside.
Saut the onions in butter for 4 to 5 minutes until translucent and aromatic.
Chill and reserve.
set over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
4.
Grind the jowl fat through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl set
over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
5. Transfer the ground lean meat to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice, pepper, nutmeg, and mace. Process until the mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C.
Continue processing until the temperature rises to 40F/4C.
6.
7.
Add the jowl fat and process until the temperature reaches 50F/10C.
8.
9.
Add the nonfat dry milk, pork skins, onions, and the lemon zest and process
until the temperature reaches 58F/14C.
lengths and tie with twine.
10.
11.
Hang the sausages on sausage sticks overnight under refrigeration.
12.
13.
14.
Chill the sausages in an ice-water bath to 100F/38C. Drain and dry them.
Poach the sausages in enough milk to cover with the bay leaves and oignon
piqu at 160 to 165F/71 to 74C to an internal temperature of 165F/74C.
Pan fry the sausages in butter to nish.
The sausages may be stored raw under refrigeration for up to 4 days and
up to 1 week after being cooked. They can also be frozen for up to 2 weeks.
Note: Veal, pork, and/or rabbit work very well with this recipe instead of chicken.
245
chicken sausage with

mushrooms and asiago
MAKES 12 LB/5.44 KG (APPROXIMATELY SIXTY 4/-IN/11-CM LINKS)
8 lb/3.63 kg boneless,
skinless chicken,
breast/ thigh
meat, cubed
2 pinches of cayenne
cup/60 mL white wine
2 lb/907 g crushed ice
2 cups/481 mL
heavy cream
VEGETABLE GARNISH
1 qt/960 mL cremini
mushrooms, stems
trimmed, washed,
dried, roasted
10 oz/284 g Asiago, cut
into 1-in/3-cm pieces
1 red bell pepper, sliced
into 1-in/3-cm strips
1 green bell pepper, sliced
into 1-in/3-cm strips
4 small yellow
onions, roasted
medium zucchini
1 carrot, peeled, cut
into 1-in/3-cm pieces
2 oz/57 g green beans,
trimmed, blanched
cup/120 mL fresh basil
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the chicken with the salt and cayenne. Transfer
the mixture to plastic storage bags and semifreeze.
2.
Grind the chicken through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing
3.
4.
Add the wine and lemon juice to the ground chicken.
Transfer the ground meat to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until the
mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C. Continue processing until the
temperature rises to 45F/7C.
5. Add the nonfat dry milk and process until the temperature reaches
52F/12C.
6. Stir in the heavy cream, making sure it is incorporated well. Transfer to a
mixing bowl and reserve under refrigeration.
7. Grind the vegetable garnish ingredients through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm)
into a mixing bowl over an ice bath. Gently fold the vegetable mixture into the
meat mixture.
8.
9.
10. Poach the sausages in 170F/77C salted water to an internal temperature

of 150F/66C.
11. Shock in an ice-water bath until the sausages drop to 50F/10C internal
temperature. Drain and dry.
12. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week. Freezing
is not recommended.
Note: When reheating chicken sausages, it is important to reheat them slowly due to the
lack of fat in the sausages.

246
SAUSAGES
duck and foie gras

sausage
MAKES 4 LB/1.81 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY-FIVE 2-IN/5-CM LINKS)
1 lb/454 g boneless,
skinless duck thigh
or leg meat, free of
sinew from leg meat
12 oz/340 g boneless,
skinless chicken
thigh or leg meat
tsp/1.25 mL ground
white pepper
12 oz/340 g foie
gras, B grade
Butter, as needed
2 tbsp/30 mL brandy
2 egg whites
2 to 2 cups/480 to
600 mL heavy cream
1 oz/28 g chopped trufes
1 bunch chives, minced
1 bunch chervil,
coarsely chopped
30 ft/9.14 m prepared
sheep casings, or
as needed
1.
Cut the duck and chicken into -in/1-cm cubes. Add the salt and
pepper and mix well. Chill well or semifreeze.
3. Dice the foie gras into rough -in/6-mm cubes, making sure the foie gras is
deveined. Reserve under refrigeration.
4.
5.
Sweat the shallots in butter until tender. Cool.
In a mixing bowl, combine the ground duck and chicken with the shallots,
Insta Cure, and brandy. Transfer to a food processor (R-6 with a metal base) and
pulse until smooth. Add the egg whites and mix until smooth.
6. Add the foie gras and process for 1 second, then begin to add the heavy
cream slowly until the cream is totally worked into the mixture. (Be careful
that this mixture does not get heated up too much by the friction created by
the blade.)
7.
8.
9.
Fold the trufes, chives, and chervil into the forcemeat, mixing well.
Place the forcemeat into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air
pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 2-in/5-cm
10.
Poach the sausages in 165F/74C salted water until just rm to the touch.
Drain and cool.
11.
These can be used immediately or can be refrigerated for 3 to 4 days.
Presentation idea: The sausages may be nished by poaching, sauting, or grilling.
247
duck sausage with fresh

sage and roasted garlic
MAKES 5 LB/2.27 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY-FIVE 2-IN/5-CM LINKS)
3 lb/1.36 kg duck meat

(legs preferred), skinned,
boned, sinew removed
1 lb/454 g pork
jowl fat, cleaned
cup/80 mL nely
chopped sage
3 tbsp/45 mL nely
minced roasted garlic
oz/9.33 g coarsely
ground black pepper
cup/120 mL
ice-cold water
cup/120 mL red
wine, chilled
8 to 10 ft/2.44 to 3.05 m
prepared sheep casings
or as needed
1.
2.
Cut the duck meat and pork fat into -in/1-cm pieces.
3.
4.
Place in the freezer until partially frozen.
In a mixing bowl, combine the sage, garlic, salt, pepper, water, and wine with
the meat and fat and mix well. Place in a resealable plastic bag, press out all the
air, and refrigerate for 8 to 10 hours or overnight.
Grind the mixture through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing
bowl over an ice bath; mix lightly.
5. Grind through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice
bath and mix well.
6.
7.
Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist 2-in/5-cm lengths
and tie with twine.
frozen for up to 2 weeks.
Presentation idea: The sausages may be pan fried in a heavy skillet or roasted in an oven to
nish them off.
248
SAUSAGES
smoked turkey and

dried apple sausage
MAKES 5 LB/2.27 KG (APPROXIMATELY TWENTY 5-IN/13-CM LINKS)
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg boneless,
skinless turkey thigh meat,
1 lb 8 oz/680 g pork
belly, skinned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
5 oz/5.60 g Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/14 g ground
black pepper
2 bunches thyme,
coarsely chopped
2 bunches sage,
coarsely chopped
1 tsp/5 mL vegetable oil
3 oz/85 g dried apples
Chicken stock, as needed
1 cup/240 mL apple
cider, chilled
sheep casings, or
as needed
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the turkey meat and pork belly with the salt, Insta
Cure, sugar, pepper, thyme, and sage. Cover and reserve under refrigeration.
2.
Sweat the garlic and shallots in a small amount of oil until tender. Drain off the
excess fat and cool. Add the garlic and shallots to the meat. Place into plastic storage
bags, press the air out, and place the mixture in the freezer until semifrozen.
3. Grind the meat through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing bowl set
over an ice bath. Reserve half of the ground meat under refrigeration and grind the
remaining meat through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) or pulse in a food processor
until a smooth paste is made. Combine both meats and reserve under refrigeration.
4.
Simmer the apples in enough stock to cover. Cook gently until the apples become tender, about 5 to 10 minutes Drain well, dry, and cool. Reserve and cool
cup/180 mL of the stock.
5.
6.
Once cooled, cut the apples into rough small dice and add to the forcemeat.
Transfer the forcemeat to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment, and mix
on speed #1 for 1 minute, gradually adding the apple cider. Mix on speed #2
until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
7. Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning as necessary. The reserved stock
may be added to adjust the consistency.
Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 5-in/13-cm links
and tie.
9. Hang the sausages on a sausage stick in a refrigerator overnight to air-dry and
form a pellicle.
10. Cold-smoke at below 80F/27C for 1 hours with medium smoke from
hickory.
11. Raw sausages may be stored under refrigeration for 3 to 4 days; cooked sausages keep for up to 1 week.
Presentation idea: The sausage may be poached, grilled, or sauted to a nished internal
249
smoked pheasant
sausage with wild rice
MAKES 11 LB/4.99 KG, APPROXIMATELY FORTY 5-IN/13-CM LINKS
skinless pheasant, cut
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg
pork fatback, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/14 g poultry
seasoning
1 cups/360 mL
ice-cold water or stock
1 cup/240 mL wild
rice, cooked, cooled
12 to 14 ft/3.66 to 4.27 m
or as needed
1.
In a mixing bowl, combine the pheasant and fatback. Add the salt, pepper,
onion powder, Insta Cure, sugar, and poultry seasoning and mix well. Place in
resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and partially freeze the meat.
2. Progressively grind the meat from the medium plate ( in/6 mm) through
the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl set over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment. Add the
water and wild rice and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2
until meat is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
4.
5.
Make a taste tester and adjust seasoning if needed.
lengths and tie with thin string.
6.
Place the sausage on sausage sticks, and hang in the refrigerator overnight to
air-dry and form a pellicle.
7. Cold-smoke for 1 to 2 hours with medium smoke from hickory and under
80F/27C, keeping items cool.
8. The sausage may be held under refrigeration for 3 to 4 days or it may be
cooked and served immediately.
Presentation ideas: The sausages may be grilled, sauted, or nished in an oven to an
The sausages may be served with lentils or on biscuits.
250
SAUSAGES
chicken sausage with

plums and ginger
MAKES 7 LB/3.18 KG (APPROXIMATELY THIRTY 4/-IN/11-CM LINKS)
skinless chicken
thigh or leg meat
oz/7 g ground
black pepper
oz/7 g cilantro,
destemmed
12 Italian plums,
pitted, diced small
6 tbsp/90 mL
minced ginger
3 tbsp/45 mL
sesame seeds
Juice from 6 limes
3 oz/90 mL rice vinegar
1 oz/28 g honey
cup/120 mL sake
1 lb 8 oz/680 g crushed ice
7 to 8 ft/2.52 to 2.88 m
or as needed
1.
Cut the chicken meat into 1-in/3-cm cubes; combine with salt, pepper,
and cilantro. Place the mixture in a plastic storage bag, press all air out, and
semifreeze.
2.
Grind the meat through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over
an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
3. Wrap the plums in foil and roast in a conventional oven at 350F/177C to

an internal temperature of 170F/77C. Cool to room temperature.
4. Sweat the ginger over medium-low heat until soft, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Cool to room temperature.
5. Gently fold the ginger and plums into the ground chicken. Add the sesame
seeds, lime juice, vinegar, and honey. Mix to incorporate. Add the sake and mix
well.
6.
Transfer the mixture to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until the
mixtures temperature rises to 45F/7C.
7. Add the nonfat dry milk and process until the temperature reaches
52F/12C.
8.
9.
10. Poach in 160 to 170F/71 to 77C salted water to an internal temperature

of 150F/66C.
11.
Shock in an ice-water bath until the sausage drops to an internal temperature

of 50F/10C.
12.
The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week. Freezing

is not recommended.
Note: When reheating chicken sausages, it is important to reheat them slowly due to the
lack of fat in the sausages.
251
veal and mushroom

sausage
MAKES 8 LB/3.63 KG (APPROXIMATELY THIRTY-TWO 4-OZ/113-G LINKS
OR SIXTY-FOUR 2-OZ/57-G LINKS)
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg lean veal,

8 oz/10.50 g dextrose
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
8 oz/3.50 g ground
dried thyme
8 oz/3.50 g poultry
seasoning
1-in/3-cm cubes
1 lb 8 oz/680 g crushed ice
VEGETABLE GARNISH
4 oz/113 g carrots,
cut into brunoise
4 oz/113 g celery,
cut into brunoise
8 oz/227 g yellow
onions, nely minced
1 tbsp/15 mL vegetable oil
1 lb/454 g button or
chanterelle mushrooms,
diced small
fresh parsley
sheep casings, or
as needed
252
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the veal with the salt, dextrose, pepper, thyme,
and poultry seasoning. Transfer the veal to resealable plastic bags, press out all
the air, and semifreeze. Freeze the jowl fat.
2. Progressively grind the veal from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the
ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl set over an ice bath. Reserve under
refrigeration.
3.
Progressively grind the jowl fat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into another mixing bowl set over an ice bath.
4.
Transfer the ground veal to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until the
5.
6.
Add the ground fat and process until the temperature reaches 45F/10C.
58F/14C. Transfer to a storage container, cover, and reserve under
refrigeration.
7. Saut the carrots, celery, and onions in oil until slightly cooked or until they
become soft. Add the mushrooms and saut. When the mushrooms release
water, add the wine. Reduce until almost dry (no moisture present). Remove
from the pan and chill.
8.
9.
Add the chilled vegetable garnish and chopped parsley to the forcemeat.
Transfer the forcemeat to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment and mix
until incorporated. Mix on speed #1 for about 2 to 3 minutes.
10.
11.
Place the forcemeat into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air
pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 2- or
4-in/5- or 10-cm lengths and tie with twine.
12. Poach the sausages in 160F/71C salted water to an internal temperature

of 155F/68C.
SAUSAGES
13. Shock the sausages immediately in an ice-water bath until cooled all the
way through.
14. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 2 weeks and can
be frozen for up to 2 weeks
Presentation idea: To prepare the sausages, reheat them in hot water and nish by grilling
or sauting them.
german bratwurst
MAKES 5 LB 8 OZ/2.50 KG (APPROXIMATELY TWENTY TO
TWENTY-FIVE 5-IN/13-CM LINKS)
4 lb/1.81 kg pork
butt, cleaned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt and pork belly with the bratwurst
seasoning. Place in a resealable plastic bag, press out all the air, and partially
freeze.

skinned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
2.
2 oz/57 g Bratwurst
Seasoning Mix (page 37)
3.
1 cup/240 mL icecold water

6 to 7 ft/1.83 to 2.52 m
prepared hog casings
Progressively grind the meat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through the
ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the water.
Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then mix on speed #2 until the meat is sticky,
15 to 30 seconds.
5. Poach the sausage in 165F/74C water to an internal temperature of
155F/68C.
6. Shock the sausage in an ice-water bath until the sausage drops to a 65 to
70F/18 to 21C internal temperature.
7.
The sausages can be stored in a refrigerator for up to 1 week and can be frozen for 2 to 3 weeks.
Note: Use sheep casings to make smaller bratwurst. Measure, pinch, and twist into
4-in/10-cm lengths and tie with thin string.
Variations
Smoked Bratwurst: Add 1 tsp/5 mL Insta Cure No. 1 with the bratwurst seasoning. After
stufng and tying, hang in the cooler overnight to air-dry and form a pellicle, then coldsmoke the meat for about 2 hours. Cold-smoke below 70F/21C with hickory or wood of
your choice. Follow the storage instructions in step 7.
253
liverwurst
MAKES 11 LB/4.99 KG
1 lb 8 oz/680 g pork skins

2 lb/907 g beef tripe
5 lb/2.27 kg pork liver
jowl fat, cleaned
2 lb/907 g boneless
pork butt, cleaned
2 kaiser rolls (12 oz/340 g)
5 tbsp/82.50 mL
kosher salt
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
ground white pepper
1 tsp/7.50 mL fresh
chopped sage
1 tsp/7.50 mL, fresh
chopped marjoram
tsp/1.25 mL
ground ginger
7 to 8 ft/2.13 to 2.44 m
prepared beef middle
(see Note)
1. In a large stockpot, simmer the pork skins covered in lightly salted water for
2 hours. Add the liver, jowl fat, and pork butt and cook for 1 hour, until tender.
2. Cool the meats to room temperature in the liquid. Drain and reserve the
cooking liquid.
3. Weigh the pork skins to make sure that they have not lost weight from the cooking process. It may be necessary to add a small amount of the stock to bring them
back up to the green weight of 1 lb 8 oz/680 g. Chill the product until semifrozen.
4. Cut the meats into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Grind through the 16 -in/5-mm plate
into a mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
5. Soak the rolls in some of the cooking liquid for 5 to 10 minutes, until they
become saturated with the juice.
6. Drain the rolls and add to the ground meat mixture. Add the salt, onion
powder, dextrose, Insta Cure, pepper, sage, marjoram, nutmeg, and ginger and
mix well until the spices are evenly distributed.
7.
Grind the mixture through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl set
over an ice bath.
8. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Mix on speed #1

for 1 minute, then speed #2 until the mixture is tacky, 15 to 30 seconds.
9. Cut the beef middle casings into 12- to 16-in/30- to 41-cm lengths. Tie one
end of each piece with a bubble knot.
Stuff the prepared casings rmly and prick all the air bubbles before tying a
bubble knot to seal them.
11.
Poach the liverwurst in 170F/77C water; allow the temperature to drop

to 160F/71C and hold at that temp. Cook the liverwurst to an internal temperature of 150 to 152F/66 to 67C, 1 to 1 hours.
12. Transfer the liverwurst to an ice-water bath, adding enough ice to chill the
liverwurst as quickly as possible, for at least 45 minutes. Remove the liverwurst
from the water bath and let it dry at room temperature. Transfer the liverwurst
to a refrigerator to chill overnight wrapped.
13. The liverwurst may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week or
frozen for about 2 to 3 weeks.
Note: Sewed synthetic casings may be used in place of beef middle casings if desired.
254
SAUSAGES
kassler liverwurst
MAKES 8 LB/3.63 KG
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg pork liver,
1-in/3-cm cubes
2 oz/57 g onion, minced
oz/14 g kosher salt
1 tsp/5 mL ground
white pepper
1 tsp/5 mL Pt Spice
Mix No. 1 (page 35)
6 oz/170 g potato starch
6 medium eggs
GARNISH
8 oz/227 g boiled
ham, diced small
cup/120 mL
pistachio nuts, shelled,
blanched, cut in half
beef middle casings,
or as needed
1.
Semifreeze the pork butt, then grind it through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) of
a meat grinder into a mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
2. Semifreeze the liver, then grind the liver and the ground pork butt from the
medium plate ( in/6 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into another
mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
3.
Freeze the jowl fat, then grind it through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a
third mixing bowl over an ice bath.
4. Combine the ground meats and fat and transfer to a mixer with a paddle
attachment. Add the onion, salt, pepper, pt spice mix, Insta Cure, potato starch,
wine, and eggs and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute. Mix on speed #2 until well
mixed, 15 to 30 seconds.
5.
6.
7.

Add the ham and the pistachios; fold in well.
Cut the beef middle casings into 12-in/30-cm lengths and tie with heavy
string at one end using a bubble knot.
Stuff the prepared casings and prick all the air bubbles before tying a bubble knot
with string to seal them.
9. Poach the liverwurst in 170F/77C salted water to an internal temperature
of 155F/68C.
10.
11.
Shock in an ice-water bath until cold.
Dip the liverwurst in hot water and dry the outside with paper towels to remove the fat.
12. Hang the liverwurst in the refrigerator at around 40F/4C to air-dry and
form a pellicle.
13.
Cold-smoke under 70F/21C, using hickory or any hard wood of your

choice, for 2 to 4 hours or until desired color.
14.
The liverwurst may be stored under refrigeration for up to 1 week and can
be frozen up to 2 to 3 weeks.
255
basic bologna
2 lb/907 g beef plate,

clean, trimmed, and cut
2 lb/907 g cleaned pork
jowl fat, skinned, cut
CURE MIX

2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
SEASONINGS
oz/14 g ground
white pepper
2 tsp/10 mL caraway
seeds, ground
1 oz/43 g onion powder
5 lb/2.50 kg lean boneless

beef, cut into 1-in/3-cm
cubes (or a combination of
pork, veal, and/or beef)
5 oz/156 g
nonfat dry milk
beef middle casings,
or as needed
1. Trim the beef plate and cut into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Place in the freezer until
partially frozen.
2. Skin and clean the jowl fat and cut into 1-in/3-cm cubes. Place in the freezer
until partially frozen.
3. In a small mixing bowl, combine the ingredients for the cure mix. In another
bowl, combine the seasonings.
4. In a mixing bowl, combine the lean beef with the cure mix and seasonings.
Place in resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and partially freeze.
5. Progressively grind the lean beef from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
refrigeration.
6.
Progressively grind the beef plate and the jowl fat from the coarse plate
(8 in/9 mm) through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice
bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
7. Transfer the ground lean meat to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until
the mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C. Continue processing until the
8.
9.
Add the beef plate and process until the temperature reaches 50F/10C.
58F/14C.
10.
11.
Cut the beef middle casings into 16-in/41-cm lengths and tie a bubble
knot at one end of each piece.
Stuff the prepared casings and prick all the air bubbles before tying a bubble
knot to seal them.
13. Hang the bologna on sausage sticks in the refrigerator and air-dry overnight to form a pellicle.
14. Hot-smoke the bologna at 160F/71C using medium smoke from hickory,
or hard wood of your choice, until they turn a reddish color, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
256
SAUSAGES
15. Poach the bologna in 160 to 170F/71 to 77C water to an internal

16. Shock in an ice-water bath until the bologna drops to an internal temperature
of 60F/16C. Blot dry and store in the refrigerator. Do not freeze.
Note: If desired, the bologna may instead be cold-smoked, using hickory or any hard wood
of your choice, for 3 hours at 70 to 100F/21 to 38C before poaching.
If bulk bologna is preferred, you can use a beef bung casing instead.
Variations:
To each fully prepared basic recipe, before stufng into casings fold in 4 lb/1.81 kg of one
of the following garnish ingredients:
Ham Bologna: Cured pork, cut in - to 1-in/2- to 3-cm cubes

Amish Bologna: Cured, cooked, and diced pig head meat, cut in -in/2-cm cubes
Tongue Bologna: Cured, cooked beef tongue, cut in - to 1-in/2- to 3-cm cubes
257
turkey frankfurters
MAKES 12 LB 8 OZ/5.67 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY TO FORTY-FIVE
4-IN/10-CM LINKS)
CURE MIX

2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/21 g dextrose
SEASONINGS
oz/7 g ground
white pepper
oz/7 g ground coriander
oz/7 g ground nutmeg
tsp/2.50 mL
garlic powder
skinless, lean turkey
breast or thigh meat, cut
4 lb/1.81 kg pork jowl fat,
cleaned, cut into 1-in/3-cm
cubes, partially frozen
5 oz/156 g
nonfat dry milk
18 to 20 ft/5.49 to 6.10 m
or as needed
1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the cure mix ingredients. In a separate

small bowl, combine the seasonings.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine the turkey with the cure mix and seasonings.
Place in resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and chill the turkey
thoroughly or partially freeze. Place the jowl fat in resealable plastic bags, press
out all the air, and chill the jowl fat until thoroughly frozen.
3. Progressively grind the turkey from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
refrigeration.
4. Progressively grind the jowl fat from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
refrigeration.
5.
Transfer the ground turkey to a Stephan cutter. Add the ice. Process until
the mixture reaches a temperature of 30F/1C. Continue processing until the
6.
7.
Add the jowl fat and process until the temperature reaches 50F/10C.
8.
9.
58F/14C.
10. Hang the frankfurters on sausage sticks in the refrigerator overnight to

air-dry and form a pellicle.
11. Hot-smoke the frankfurters, using hickory or any hard wood of your
choice, in a preheated smokehouse at 120F/49C for about 1 hour. Apply a
medium smoke and increase the smoke temperature to 130F/54C for about
1 hour. Then increase the smokehouse temperature to 160F/71C and apply a
medium smoke again to obtain the desired color.
12. Poach them in 170F/77C water to an internal temperature of
155F/68C.
258
SAUSAGES
13. Shock in an ice-water bath until the frankfurters internal temperature

drops to 60F/16C.
14. The frankfurters may be stored for 1 to 2 weeks under refrigeration or can
be frozen for 2 to 3 weeks until needed.
Variation: After the frankfurters have air-dried in the refrigerator overnight, cold-smoke
them, using hickory or any hard wood of your choice, at less than 80F/27C until the
desired color is achieved, 1 to 1 hours. Follow the instructions for poaching and shocking.
259
wisconsin-style smoked
cheddar and jalapeo
sausage
MAKES 14 LB/6.35 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY TO FORTY-FIVE
6-IN/15-CM LINKS)
2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
boneless beef shoulder,
80/20, cleaned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
5 lb 8 oz/2.50 kg pork
belly, 50/50, skinned, cut
4/ oz/122.36 g kosher salt
oz/12.43 g Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/12.43 g sodium
tripolyphosphate
2 cups/480 mL cold water
4/ oz/122.36 g
light corn syrup
oz/24.80 g dextrose
/ oz/16.26 g ground
black pepper
oz/6.12 g Colmans
dry mustard
/8 oz/3.10 g garlic powder
0.03 oz/0.78 g
ground ginger
1.
Place all of the cubed meat in the freezer and leave until partially frozen.
2. Grind the beef shoulder through a coarse plate into a mixing bowl set over
3. Grind the pork butt through a coarse plate into another mixing bowl set over
4. Grind the pork belly through a coarse plate into a third mixing bowl set over
5. Combine the ground beef and pork butt. Transfer to a mixer with a paddle
attachment. Start mixing on speed #1. Add the salt and Insta Cure and continue
mixing for 1 minute on speed #1.
6. Dissolve the sodium tripolyphosphate in the water. Add half of the water to
the meat. Add the pork belly, the ice, corn syrup, dextrose, pepper, mustard, garlic powder, ginger, sodium erythorbate, and ground jalapeos. Mix for 5 minutes
on speed #1. Chill the mixture until semifrozen.
7.
Regrind the mixture through a 16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl set
8.
Rehydrate the whole jalapeos for 5 minutes in enough water to soften.

Drain off and discard any excess water. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a
paddle attachment. Add the Cheddar cheese and rehydrated jalapeos and the
other half of the water-phosphate mixture. Mix for 2 minutes on speed #1.
9. Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are no air pockets. Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist into 6-in/15-cm
lengths, and tie with twine.
Pinch oz/2.71 g
sodium erythorbate
260
SAUSAGES
0.10 oz/2.85 g ground

dried jalapeos or
jalapeo powder
0.60 oz/17 g dehydrated or
fresh jalapeos, deseeded,
dried, and cut in half
2 lb/907 g Cheddar
cheese, shredded
8 ft/2.44 m hog casings,
or as needed
10. Hang the sausages on sausage sticks in the refrigerator overnight to air-dry
and form a pellicle.
11.
Hot-smoke the sausages using a hard wood, like hickory, at 120F/49C

for 2 hours, then 130F/54C for 2 hours, and nally at 185F/85C to an
12. Shock the sausage in ice-water until an internal temperature of

60F/16C is reached, then hang them on sausage sticks to air-dry.
13. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 days or can be
frozen for 2 to 3 weeks.
261
wisconsin-style smoked
wild rice sausage
MAKES 14 LB/6.35 KG (APPROXIMATELY FORTY-FIVE TO FIFTY 4-INCH LINKS)
2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
boneless beef shoulder,
80/20, cleaned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
butt, 80/20, boneless, cut
belly, 50/50, skinned, cut
4/ oz/122.36 g kosher salt
oz/12.43 g Insta
Cure No. 1
oz/12.43 g sodium
tripolyphosphate
2 cups/480 mL water
4/ oz/122.36 g
light corn syrup
oz/24.80 g dextrose
/ oz/19.10 g ground
black pepper
oz/6.12 g Colmans
dry mustard
/8 oz/3.10 g garlic powder
Pinch oz/0.78 g
ground ginger
0.096 oz/2.71 g
sodium erythorbate
/8 oz/2.84 g onion powder
1 lb 2 oz/511 g wild
rice, cooked, cooled
1.
2.
Place all of the cubed meat in the freezer until partially frozen.
Separately grind the pork butt, beef, and pork belly through a coarse plate
into separate mixing bowls set over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
3.
Combine the ground beef and pork butt. Transfer to a mixer with a paddle
attachment. Start mixing on speed #1. Add the salt and Insta Cure and continue
mixing for 1 minute on speed #1.
4. Dissolve the sodium tripolyphosphate in half of the water. Then add the
other half of the water to the meat. Add the ground pork belly, ice, corn syrup,
dextrose, pepper, mustard, garlic powder, ginger, and sodium erythorbate. Mix
for 5 minutes on speed #1. Chill the mixture until partially frozen.
5.
Regrind the mixture through a 16 -in/5-mm plate into a mixing bowl set over
an ice bath.
6. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the other half
of water with the phosphate, the onion powder, and rice, and mix for 2 minutes
on speed #1. Mix well, make a taste tester, and adjust the seasonings if needed.
8.
Hang the sausages on sausage sticks in the refrigerator overnight to air-dry

9. Hot-smoke the sausages using a hard wood like hickory at a medium smoke
intensity at 120F/49C for 2 hours, then at 130F/54C for 2 hours, and nally
at 185F/85C, to an internal temperature of 155F/68C.
10. Shock the sausage in an ice-water bath until an internal temperature of

60F/16C is reached, then on sausage sticks to air-dry.
11. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 4 days or frozen
for 2 to 3 weeks.
7 to 8 ft/2.13 to 2.44 m
or as needed
262
SAUSAGES
dried chorizo
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG (APPROXIMATELY FIFTEEN TO TWENTY
8-IN/20-CM LINKS)

butt, cleaned, certied, cut
into - to 1-in/1- to/3cm cubes (see Notes)
2 lb/907 g boneless pork,
50/50, cleaned, certied,
cut into - to 1-in/1- to/3cm cubes (see Notes)
1 cup/240 mL distilled
white vinegar
4 tbsp/60 mL smoked
Spanish paprika
3 tbsp/45 mL cayenne
3 tbsp/45 mL
granulated garlic
3 tbsp/45 mL fresh
chopped oregano
2 tsp/10 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
1. Place the pork butt and 50/50 pork into resealable plastic bags (5 lb/2.27 kg
per bag), press out all the air, and partially freeze.
2.
Grind the meat and fat through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing
3. Transfer the ground meats to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the
salt, vinegar, paprika, cayenne, granulated garlic, oregano, pepper, Insta Cure,
corn syrup solids, Fermento, and water and mix well.
4.
Transfer the meat to a clean storage container and pack it very well to avoid
air pockets. Place plastic wrap directly on top of the meat and cover with a lid.
Cure the meat in the refrigerator overnight at 38F/3C.
over an ice bath.
Stuff into the prepared casings. Measure, pinch, and twist every 8 in/20 cm, and
tie with twine.
7.
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 2
Place the sausage on sausage sticks, leaving about 1 in/3 cm or so between

links as you hang to ferment, Allow the sausage to ferment for 3 days at 70 to
75F/21 to 24C with a relative humidity of 70 to 80 percent.
3 tbsp/45 mL light
corn syrup solids
8. Space the sausages 3 to 4 in/8 to 10 cm apart and dry for 15 days at 50 to

55F/10 to 13C and a relative humidity of 60 to 70 percent.
1 cups/360 mL Fermento
1 cup/240 mL
ice-cold water
9. The chorizo may be stored under refrigeration for up to 3 weeks or frozen

for up to 1 month.
Notes: Like other dry, uncooked sausages in this book, this recipe requires that certied
pork be used. See the table on Certifying Pork via Freezing on page 63.
Chorizo can be made using a combination of any lean cut of pork plus jowl fat or skinned
pork belly, or 100 percent pork butt.
263
Chorizo in tortillas with salsa
spanish chorizo
MAKES 9 LB/4.08 KG (APPROXIMATELY THIRTY-TWO TO
THIRTY-SIX 5-IN/13-CM LINKS)
SEASONING MIX
cup/120 mL
cream sherry
1 cup/240 mL
smoked paprika
1 tsp/7.50 mL
Insta Cure No. 2
2 tsp/10 mL dextrose
2 tsp/10 mL
granulated garlic
2 tsp/10 mL coarsely
ground black pepper
2 lb/907 g boneless
pork butt, certied,
70/30, cut into 1-in/3cm cubes (see Notes)
butt, certied, cleaned
2 lb/907 g pork belly
or jowl fat, 50/50, cut
1.
2.
In a small mixing bowl, combine the ingredients for the seasoning mix.
3.
4.
Semifreeze the pork butt and 50/50 pork.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the cubed pork butts with half of the
seasoning mix. In another bowl, combine the 50/50 pork with the remaining
seasoning mix. Transfer each meat to resealable plastic bags, press out all the air,
and refrigerate overnight.
Grind the pork butt through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing
bowl set over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
5.
Grind the 50/50 pork through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing
6.
Combine the ground pork butt and the 50/50 pork and transfer to a mixer
tted with a paddle attachment. Mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then on speed
#2 until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
7.
8.
lengths, and tie with twine.
9. Hang the sausages on sausage sticks in the refrigerator overnight to air-dry

Option 1, Cold-Smoke: Cold-smoke the sausages at 70F/21C or less, using hickory or any hard wood of your choice, for 12 to 14 hours. Air-dry for 12 hours at
60 to 70F/16 to 21C with a relative humidity of 60 to 70 percent. The sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 2 weeks.
Option 2, Cold-Smoke: Cold-smoke the sausages 70F/21C or less, using hickory
or any hard wood of your choice, for 2 hours after letting the meat hang at
77F/ 25C for 48 hours.
(continued)
265
Option 3, Dry-Cure: Dry-cure the sausages at 50F/10C and 75 percent rela-
tive humidity until the sausages lose 25 percent of their weight, 10 to 15 days.
Remove any mold that forms with a rag dipped in a vinegar-water solution. The
sausages may be stored under refrigeration for up to 3 weeks.
Notes: This sausage is commonly used in paellas and to avor other dishes.
Like other dry, uncooked sausages in this book, this recipe requires that certied pork be
used. See the table on Certifying Pork via Freezing on page 63.
Although it is most often cooked, this sausage can be eaten raw as an appetizer or as bar
food.
266
SAUSAGES
calabrese salami
MAKES 11 LB/4.99 KG
pork butt, certied,
cleaned, cut into 1-in/3cm cubes (see Note)
2 lb/907 g pork fatback,
certied, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
certied, skinned, cut
3 tbsp/52.50 mL
kosher salt
2 tbsp/37.50 mL glucose
3 tbsp/45 mL red
pepper akes
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 2
1 tbsp/45 mL ground
white pepper
2 tsp/10 mL anise seed
tsp/2.50 mL
ascorbic acid
tsp/1.25 mL F-LC
SafePro starter culture
2 tbsp/30 mL distilled water
1 cup/240 mL
sweet vermouth
1. In a large mixing bowl, mix the pork butt, fatback, and pork belly. Transfer
to resealable plastic bags, press out all the air, and place in the freezer until
partially frozen.
2. Grind the pork mixture through the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) into a mixing
3.
Mix in the salt, glucose, red pepper akes, Insta Cure, white pepper, anise
seed, and ascorbic acid. Dissolve the starter culture in the distilled water and add
to the meat mixture. Add the vermouth to the meat.
4.
Transfer the mixture to a mixer tted with a paddle attachment. Mix on

speed #1 for 1 minute, then speed #2 until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
5. Cut the hog casings into 24-in/61-cm lengths and tie a bubble knot at one
end of each one.
6. Stuff the prepared casings and prick all of the air bubbles before tying a
bubble knot to seal them. Pinch and tie each salami in the middle. Weigh the
salamis to get the green weight.
7. Hang the salamis in the refrigerator at around 38 to 40F/3 to 4C to dry
for 3 hours.
8. Place the salamis in an area at 75 to 80F/24 to 27C at about 80 percent
relative humidity for about 24 hours.
9.
Let the temperature drop to about 70F/21C and hold for the next 6 hours
at 70F/21C.
10.
Hold the salamis in an area at 60F/16C with about 70 percent relative

humidity, until they lose about 30 percent of their green weight, about 6 weeks.
A white mold should grow on the salamis during this time. This is benecial and
preserves the salamis while making it hard for other bacteria to grow. Check on
the salamis toward the end of the 6 weeks to make sure that the casings do not
harden. If the casings start to harden, adjust the moisture/humidity as needed,
increasing the humidity so the casings do not dry too fast.
Note: Like other dry, uncooked sausages in this book, this recipe requires that certied
267
dry-cured genoa salami

MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG
lean pork, cleaned,
certied, cut into 1-in/3cm cubes (see Notes)
1 lb 8 oz/680 kg boneless
pork, 50/50, certied, cut
1 lb 8 oz/680 kg pork
fatback, certied, cut
3 tbsp/45 mL light
corn syrup solids
1 tbsp/15 mL black
peppercorns
1 tbsp/15 mL ground
white pepper
4 tsp/20 mL yellow
mustard seeds
1 tbsp/15 mL anise
seeds, crushed
cup/80 mL dry white
wine, preferably Italian
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 2
2 tbsp/30 mL light
corn syrup
Starter culture (see
Notes), as needed
Distilled water, as needed
tsp/2.50 mL sodium
erythorbate
cup/120 mL
ice-cold grappa
1 prepared hog bung
(20 in/51 cm; see Notes)
268
1. Combine the lean pork, 50/50 pork, and fatback. Place in resealable plastic
bags, press out all the air, and partially freeze.
2. Grind the meat through a -in/2-cm plate into a mixing bowl over an
ice bath.
3. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the salt,
corn syrup solids, black peppercorns, white pepper, garlic powder, mustard
seeds, paprika, anise seeds, wine, Insta Cure, and corn syrup. Mix on speed #1
for 1 minute, then on speed #2 until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
4.
Place the mixture not more than 6 in/15 cm high into plastic containers and
pack tightly to get rid of any air pockets. Place plastic wrap directly on top of the
meat and cover tightly with a lid. Place in a cooler at 38F/3C for 48 hours.
5. Transfer the meat mixture to a mixing bowl. Measure the correct amount of
starter culture according to package specications. Dissolve the starter culture in
enough distilled water to obtain a slurry consistency. Dissolve the sodium erythorbate in the grappa. Add the starter culture and sodium erythorbate to the meat
mixture and mix well. Make a taste tester and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
6. Tie a bubble knot at one end of the hog bung. Stuff the prepared hog bung
rmly with the salami mixture. Prick all the air bubbles before tying a bubble
knot to seal the bung. Place the hog bung in a net for better handling.
7. Hang the salami to cure at 70 to 75F/21 to 24C with a relative humidity
of 70 to 80 percent for 48 hours.
8. After the 48 hours, hang the salami in a cooler at 45 to 55F/7 to 13C
with a relative humidity of 75 percent for 70 to 80 days.
9.
The salami may be stored under refrigeration for up to 3 weeks or it may be

frozen for up to 1 month for later use.
Notes: Like other dry, uncooked sausages in this book, this recipe requires that certied
Different commercial starters may use different amounts; follow the package specications. In place of the hog bung, you can use protein-lined casings or cloth casings.
Variation: When using hog bungs, after stufng the salamis, place them in a brine at a
50-degree salinometer reading at a temperature of 34 to 38 F/1 to 3C for 1 or 2 days.
After removing the salami from the brine, place it into simmering water for 3 seconds. This
process will help to remove all of the excess fat and will open the pores of the hog bung,
which in turn promotes the drying of the salami.
SAUSAGES
california spicy
sopressata
MAKES APPROXIMATELY 6 LB/2.72 KG (APPROXIMATELY SIX
1-LB/454-G SAUSAGES)
pork butt, certied, cleaned,
cut into - to 1-in/1- to
3-cm cubes (see Note)
pork, 50/50, certied,
cleaned, cut into - to
1-in/1- to 3-cm cubes
2 oz/64 g Kosher salt
2 tbsp/30 mL light
corn syrup
8 oz/227 g pork fatback,
small dice, frozen, ground
through -in/6-mm plate
and reserved for garnish
2 tsp/10 mL very coarsely
ground black pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL red
pepper akes, crushed
medium ne
1 tsp/5 mL cayenne
cup/120 mL
ice-cold grappa
2 tsp/10 mL anise
seeds, crushed
beef round casings,
or as needed
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt and the 50/50 pork, with the Insta
Cure, salt, and corn syrup. Pack in resealable plastic bags, press out all the air,
and freeze until partially frozen.
2. Place the fatback in a plastic bag, freeze, and grind through a -in/6-mm
plate. Reserve under refrigeration.
3. Grind the mixture twice through the medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a
mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve half under refrigeration and grind the other half through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
4.
Combine all the ground meats in a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the
fatback, the black pepper, red pepper, garlic powder, paprika, cayenne, grappa,
and anise seeds and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then on speed #2 until the
mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
5.
6.
Cut the beef round casings into 8-in/10-cm lengths and tie a bubble knot at
one end of each piece.
Stuff the prepared casings and prick all the air bubbles before tying a bubble
knot to seal them. Weigh the sopressata to get the green weights and record the
weights.
8. Hang the sopressata for 4 days in a 50F/10C environment with low
humidity and a lot of air movement.
9.
Hang in a refrigerator until rm, about 4 weeks. The sopressata is ready

when it has lost 20 to 25 percent of its green weight.
10.
The sopressata may be stored for up to 3 weeks under refrigeration.
269
kabanosy
MAKES 10 LB/4.54 KG
skinned, cut into
1-in/3-cm cubes
2 tsp/10 mL Insta
Cure No. 1
fresh ham, cleaned, cut
4 tsp/20 mL ground
black pepper
1 tsp/6.25 mL
ground nutmeg
2 tsp/10 mL caraway
seeds, ground
sheep casings (.85 in/22
mm), or as needed
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the pork butt and pork belly with 2 tbsp/37.50
mL of the salt, 1 tsp/5 mL of the Insta Cure, and 1 tbsp/22.50 mL of the
dextrose; mix well. Transfer to a resealable plastic bag, press out all the air, and
place in the freezer until partially frozen.
2. In another mixing bowl, combine the fresh ham with the remaining salt,
Insta Cure, and dextrose; mix well. Transfer to a resealable plastic bag, press out
all the air, and place in the freezer until partially frozen.
3. Grind the pork butt and pork belly through a 16 -in/5-mm plate into a
mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
4.
Grind the fresh ham through the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a separate
mixing bowl over an ice bath.
5. Transfer the ground meats to a mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the
pepper, garlic, nutmeg, and caraway and mix on speed #1 for 1 minute, then on
speed #2 until the mixture is sticky, 15 to 30 seconds.
6.
7.
lengths and tie with twine. Weigh the links to get the green weight and record
the weights.
8. Place the links on sausage sticks and hang overnight at 39F/4C to air-dry
9. Cold-smoke the kabanosy, using hickory wood and a medium-smoke intensity for 3 hours.
10. Hot-smoke the kabanosy using hard wood like hickory and a mediumsmoke intensity at 120F/49C for 1 hour, then at 130F/54C for 1 hour more.
11. Finish hot-smoking the kabanosy at 185F/85C to an internal temperature
of 155F68C. The kabanosy should have a dark brown color.
12. Remove the links from the smokehouse and cure for 7 days at 65F/18C
and about 70 percent humidity until they reach 55 percent of their green
weight.
13. The kabanosy may be stored under refrigeration for up to 2 weeks and can
be frozen for about 2 to 3 weeks.
270
SAUSAGES
landjger
MAKES 12 LB 8 OZ/5.67 KG, APPROXIMATELY THIRTY TO
THIRTY-FIVE 6-IN/15-CM LINKS
beef shoulder, cleaned,
lean pork, certied,
cleaned, cut into 1-in/3cm cubes (see Note)
1 tsp/7.50 mL
garlic powder
2 tsp/10 mL ground
caraway seeds
1 oz/28 g dextrose
3 oz/85 g Fermento
tsp/3.75 mL nely
ground black pepper
8 to 10 ft/2.44 to 3.05 m
or as needed
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the beef, pork, and Insta Cure. Place in resealable
plastic bags, press out all the air, and partially freeze.
2. Progressively grind the meats from the coarse plate (8 in/9 mm) through
the ne plate (8 in/3 mm) into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.
3. Transfer the ground meats to a mixer with a paddle attachment and add
the garlic powder, water, caraway, dextrose, salt, Fermento, and pepper. Mix on
speed #1 until the meat feels sticky, about 1 minute.
4.
5.
Stuff into the prepared casings and press the sausages in a landjger mold.
6.
Place the mold on a plastic sheet tray. Cover the mold with plastic wrap
and weight the sausages by setting two wooden cutting boards on top of the
press. Remove the sausages from the mold and place in a refrigerator at 38 to
40F/3 to 4C for 2 to 4 days, so they will hold their square shape.
7. Cold-smoke the sausages at 70F/21C or less, using hickory or a hard wood

of your choice, for 12 to 24 hours.
8. Dry at 65F/18C with a relative humidity of 60 percent for 3 to 4 days,
until the desired rmness is reached.
9.
The sausage may be stored for up to 2 weeks under refrigeration or can be

frozen for 1 to 2 months.
271
cotechino
MAKES FOUR 12-IN/30 CM SAUSAGES
8 oz/227 g pork skin, cut

into by -in/6 mm
by 2-cm strips
1 vanilla bean, split
tsp/1.25 mL
ground allspice
8 bay leaves
pork butt, lean, cleaned,
black pepper
jowl fat, cleaned, cut
0.26 oz/7.28 g Insta
Cure No. 1
1 tsp/7.50 mL black
peppercorns
beef middle casings
1. Boil the skin with the vanilla bean in water to cover until the skin is tender,
about 2 hours.
2. Drain the skin. Remove and discard the vanilla bean. While hot, toss the skin
with the wine, garlic, allspice, and bay leaves. Cool to room temperature.
3. Season the pork butt with the salt and ground pepper. Transfer the pork butt
to resealable plastic bags and place in a freezer until semifrozen.
4. Grind the pork butt through a medium plate ( in/6 mm) into a mixing
bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
5. Transfer the jowl fat to resealable plastic bags and place in a freezer until
semifrozen. Grind the jowl fat through a medium plate ( in/6 mm) into
another mixing bowl over an ice bath. Reserve under refrigeration.
6.
Remove the bay leaves and then grind the cold pork skin through the ne
plate (8 in/3 mm) into a third mixing bowl over an ice bath.
7. In a mixing bowl over an ice bath, combine the ground pork butt, pork skin,
pork fat, Insta Cure, and peppercorns and mix well.
8.
9.
Cut the casings into 12-in/30-cm lengths. Tie each piece at one end with
a bubble knot. Place the mixture into a sausage stuffer, making sure there are
no air pockets. Stuff into the casings and prick all the air bubbles before tying a
bubble knot to seal them.
10.
11.
Weigh the cotechino to get their green weight and record the weights.
Hang to dry in an area at 60F/16C at 60 to 75 percent relative humidity

for 4 to 6 weeks. The cotechino is ready when it has lost 10 to 15 percent of its
green weight.
272
SAUSAGES
12. Poach the cotechino in 160 to 170F/71 to 77C water for 1 hour to an
internal temperature of 155F/68C, then cool in an ice-water bath to an internal
13.
The sausages may be stored for up to 1 week under refrigeration or can be

frozen for 2 to 3 weeks.
Variation
Zambone: To make this traditional Italian charcuterie item, cure 1 boned trotter each under
refrigeration in a solution of 2 lb/907 g salt, 1 lb/454 g granulated sugar, and 1 gal/3.84 L
water for 24 hours. Drain and rinse the trotters and stuff with the cotechino mixture. Braise
or cold-smoke. If cold-smoking, do so for about 2 hours on medium-high smoke, using a hard
wood like hickory. Finish with another cooking method. Zambone may be served hot or cold.
273
condiments
chapter nine
We will look at condiments used in charcuterie to complement and
bring out the avors of the product.
Back to front, left to right: Spiced Watermelon Rind (page 328), Fresh-Pack
Dill Pickles (page 319), Pickled Seckel Pears (page 323), Pickle Relish (page
304), Zesty Cranberry Ketchup (page 315), Sweet Pickle Chips (page 330),
Apple and Banana Chutney (page 311), Sweet Mixed-Pickle Chow Chow
(page 329), Mustard Horseradish Sauce (page 296), Pickled Red Onion
(page 322), Mango, Papaya, Orange, and Lime Salsa (page 316).
276
Saucemaking is an art. A good sauce can change an ordinary dish

into something extraordinary. . . . Sauce can run the gamut, from the
classical French Mother sauces that can often require many hours of
preparation with expensive ingredients, to simple preparations that take
only a few minutes to incorporate together. BONEWERKS CULINART
When I look back on my time as saucier in Le Chantilly restaurant in New York City, I
remember the sauces required hours to develop the rich sheen and transparency they
possessed and the avor they brought to the plates they were to enhance.
The use of sauces has changed dramatically during the past fteen years. We
have been inuenced by various cuisines, cultures, and nutritional data in a way that
has shaped a new outlook on the food industry. The old sauces, though rich in avor
and texture, are being replaced by lighter, highly avored glazes and sauces that are
used more as nal seasoning agents than anything else. Newer ways of making these
sauces might seem simple, but you need a good grasp of the basic sauce making to
bring your ingredients together to create a complete plate.
There are myriad cold sauces you may be familiar with that remind me of the
sauces I made as a saucier. The rst that comes to mind is a Cumberland sauce, which
accompanies terrines, pts, and galantines. There are also mayonnaise-based sauces
such as sauce gribiche, sauce rmoulade, sauce verte, andof coursetartar sauce,
which we associate with New England and fried foods. There are vinaigrette-based
sauces like mignonette sauce, which is used for oysters.
cold sauces
Cold sauces should bring avor, moisture, sheen, and visual interest to the plate.
TYPES OF COLD SAUCES
Coulis and pures

Emulsions
Coating sauces
Dairy-based sauces
Contemporary sauces
Note: Parts of this chapter are based on material from Escofers Le Guide Culinaire (London, Heinemann,
1986); The Sauce Bible: A Guide to the Sauciers Craft by David Paul Larousse (Wiley, 1993); Condiments: The
Art of Buying, Making, and Using Mustards, Oils, Vinegars, Chutneys, Relishes, Sauces, Savory Jellies, and More, by
Kathy Gunst (G. P. Putnam, 1984); and Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making by James Peterson
(Wiley, 2008).
277
coulis and pures

The classic denition of a coulis, according to Escofer in Le Guide Culinaire, is the
well reduced, highly concentrated essential avors of a food, in either pure or liquid
form. The word pure is frequently used interchangeably with coulis. In the modern
cold kitchen, coulis are made by pureing raw or cooked fruits or vegetables to a
sauce-like consistency. They are usually thickened by the pulp of the main ingredient,
or sometimes by reduction. The texture of these sauces can range from very light and
smooth to coarse. They have a slightly thicker and grainier texture than a rened or
roux-thickened sauce. They may be served as is, or may be adjusted by adding stocks,
wines, infusions, oils, or cream.
Coulis and pures may begin to weep a clear liquid as they sit. To prevent this,
bring the sauce to a simmer and add a small amount of diluted arrowroot or cornstarch. This is a helpful practice whenever advanced plating is required, as might be
the case for a banquet or reception.
emulsions
Vinaigrettes and mayonnaise are two emulsions made by combining ingredients that
would not otherwise blend into a homogenous mixture. In order to understand how
these sauces are prepared, we will rst discuss what an emulsion is and how it is
formed. An emulsion consists of two phases: the dispersed phase and the continuous
phase. When making vinaigrette, for example, the dispersed phase is the oil, meaning
that the oil has broken up into very small droplets by either shaking or mixing the
sauce. Each oil droplet is suspended throughout the continuous phasein this case
the vinegar.
temporary emulsions
Temporary emulsions, such as vinaigrettes, form quickly and require only the mechanical action of whipping, shaking, or stirring. They are not stable and will break
apart into their components when left to sit for a while.
semipermanent emulsions
To make an emulsion stable enough to keep the oil in suspension, additional ingredients known as emulsiers are necessary. Emulsiers used in cold sauces such as vinaigrettes include egg yolks, mustard, roasted garlic, fruit or vegetable pures, and glace
de viande. A small addition of any of these can change a temporary emulsion into a
semipermanent emulsion in which the texture is creamier and the emulsion will hold
together for a longer period of time.
permanent emulsions
Stable permanent emulsions such as mayonnaise are made by very carefully controlling the rate at which the oil is added to the sauce. Egg yolks provide both the liquid
that holds the oil droplets in suspension and a special emulsier known as lecithin.
The oil is added very gradually at rst so that the droplets can be made extremely ne.
278
CONDIMENTS
The more oil that is added to the yolks, the thicker the sauce will become. If the oil
is added too rapidly early on, the emulsion cannot start to form properly. Also, if the
emulsion becomes too thick early in the mixing process, the full amount of oil cannot
be added; the sauce then needs to be thinned with a little water or an acid such as
vinegar or lemon juice.
In Europe, mayonnaise is used more often as a sauce or an ingredient in sauces
such as sauce Chantilly, sauce verte, aoli, or rouille.
coating sauces
Although coating sauces are not as popular as they once were, they still have applications for the garde manger. They can be used to coat canaps and other hors
doeuvres, to prepare platters for display and service, and to coat timbales and other
appetizers. Chaud-froids were classically made by adding gelatin to a warm sauce
such as demi-glace, bchamel, or velout. Mayonnaise mixed with aspic was used
next; the combination of sour cream and aspic is more common nowadays.
geles
Clear coating sauces, known as aspic gele or simply aspics, are made by clarifying
stocks, juices, or essences and fortifying them with enough gelatin to achieve the desired strength. After making the aspic, temper the mixture by stirring it constantly
with a rubber spatula over an ice bath to cool it to the proper temperature. Once it just
begins to thicken, ladle or pour the aspic over the desired application.
Aspics are made by adding gelatin

to claried stocks or juices to
achieve the strength desired for the
chosen application.
Give slices of the nished product

a glossy sheen by sealing with
aspic solution before serving.
Different applications will call for

different strengths of gele. In this
case, mousse-strength gele is
being used.
279
Aspic gele is one of the more versatile coating sauces used in garde manger. It
is also utilized frequently to seal an edible item, such as pt en crote, both after it is
baked to ll in the air gaps and after it is sliced.
To check the gelatin strength, place the aspic in the refrigerator and allow it to set
up until it is completely rm. That is, it should be cold and rm when you press your
nger against the aspic. The more resistance when you press it, the stronger the gelatin
strength and the rmer the hold. Use the chart for gelatin strength to determine what
strength the aspic is, then determine the difference from the strength aspic you need.
For example, suppose you need mousse-strength aspic, but you have delicate. Take the
difference in the gelatin amount and weigh the gelatin; take your aspic that has been
heated to room temperature. Sprinkle (rain) gelatin over the liquid, let bloom (absorb
the water) for 5 to 10 minutes, and then heat on a water bath to 110F/43C. Now it
is ready to use.
gelatin for aspic gele

GEL
STRENGTH
AMOUNT PER
GALLON
AMOUNT PER
PINT
POSSIBLE USES
Delicate gel
2 oz/57 g
oz/7 g
When slicing is not

required; individual portion
of meat, vegetable, or sh
bound by gelatin; jellied
consomms
Coating gel
4 oz/113 g
oz/14 g
Edible chaud-froid; coating

individual items
Sliceable gel
6 to 8 oz/170
to 227 g
1 oz/28 g
When product is to be
sliced; lling pt en
crote, head cheese
Firm gel
10 to 12 oz/
284 to 340 g
1 to 1 oz/
35 to 43 g
Coating platters with

underlayment for food
show or competition
Moussestrength gel
16 oz/454 g
2 oz/57 g
When product must retain

shape after unmolding
dairy-based sauces
Dairy-based sauces are used as salad dressings or dips. They are easy to blend, and are
made from natural bases: soft cheeses such as frache, quark, mascarpone, and cream
cheese; cultured milks such as sour cream, crme frache, or buttermilk; heavy cream;
or low- or reduced-fat versions of ricotta, sour cream, or cottage cheese. These dressing are generally white or ivory, so they can take on a pastel color from pures or coulis
of herbs, fruits, or vegetables. The nished sauce is always opaque in appearance.
280
CONDIMENTS
Chaud-froid with sealed-in garnishes
281
282
Chaud-froid made with demi-glace
CONDIMENTS
Typical additions to dairy-based sauces are cheeses (especially blue cheese,

Parmesan, and feta), fresh lemon, black pepper, and minced or pured herbs. Diced,
minced, or grated vegetables, pickles, capers, and olives add texture as well as avor.
Creamy sauces can be prepared in a range of textures, from a relatively stiff sauce
to serve as a dip or spread to a pourable sauce that easily dresses a green salad. For a
light, almost mousse-like texture, whipped cream can be folded into the sauce at the
last moment.
contemporary sauces
Contemporary sauces are based on fresh, high-quality ingredients that are usually
lighter, less caloric, and more nutritious. They are sometimes called simple or independent sauces because they are prepared independently of the foods they accompany. They derive none of their character from the preparation itself. These sauces
may actually be simple, or complex.
ketchup
When it comes to hamburgers or French fries, nothing can beat the classic condiment we now know as ketchup. Today, when you ask someone what ketchup is, they
will point you to the tomato-based sauce that is found on every diner counter and in
virtually every household refrigerator in America. In reality, thought, the number of
varieties of ketchup is enormous. But it is only over the past hundred years or so that
ketchup has come to mean just this one sauce. To give you an idea, an old American
cookbook included ketchups made from cucumbers, cranberries, onions, grapes, lemons, and apples, along with combinations like tomatoes and red wine or cucumbers
and black pepper.
Although there is some disagreement about exactly where it came from, everyone
agrees that what we now call ketchup originated somewhere in Asia as a salty shbased sauce. If you try to trace it by linguistics, however, you cant get too precise;
you have your choice of ketsiap from China, kechap from Malaysia, or ketjap from
Indonesia.
Ketchup arrived in Europe sometime in the seventeenth century. However, since
sh brine was not a common ingredient there, European versions of this condiment
were based on vinegar and spices and contained a wide range of ingredients in place
of the standard tomato we think of today. Making ketchup out of something was
thought of primarily as a way of preserving that product, and home cooks and chefs
alike made ketchups of everything from mushrooms to walnuts to horseradish root.
salsa
Salsas are combinations of more or less nely chopped vegetables and sometimes
fruit. They may be raw (salsa cruda) or cooked, and are seasoned and avored in
many different ways, but usually contain hot peppers, coriander leaves (cilantro), lime
juice, and tomatoes. The ingredients, instead of being pured or infused into a liquid,
are allowed to retain their texture and individuality within the mixture. Salsas are usu-
283
ally bright colored and have a direct and refreshing avor. Because of this, the more
traditional salsas are excellent with grilled and highly avored foods. They can be
surprisingly complex in avor, and balance the dishes they are served with.
oils, vinegars, reductions, foams, and juice extractions

Good-quality oils and vinegars can be infused with spices, aromatics, herbs, and fruits
or vegetables to create products with many applications. They work well as condiments, added in a drizzle or as droplets to lend a bit of intense avor and color to a
plated dish. They also are excellent to use as a dressing for vegetables, pastas, grains,
or fruits. And, of course, they are well suited to use as part of vinaigrettes and other
dressings for a special effect.
The oils and vinegars used may be of many varieties or infused with other food
products such as herbs or garlic.)
METHODS FOR INFUSING OILS AND VINEGARS
Method 1: WARM INFUSION: Heat the oil or vinegar very gently over low heat
with avoring ingredients such as citrus zest or spices, just until the aroma is
apparent. Let the liquid steep off of the heat with the avoring ingredients until
cool, then pour into storage bottles or containers. You may opt to strain the liquid
for a clearer nal product, or leave the avoring ingredients in for more intensity. It
is recommended to use damp cheesecloth when straining avored vinegars.
Method 2: STEEPING: Place the herbs or other aromatics in a glass or plastic
bottle. Heat the oil or vinegar briey, just until warm. Pour the liquid over the
aromatics, and let it rest until the desired avor is achieved. You may wish to add
fresh aromatics after the liquid has steeped for several days to give an even more
intense avor.
Method 3: PUREING: Pure raw, blanched, or fully cooked vegetables, herbs,
or fruits. Bring the pure to a simmer, reducing if necessary to concentrate the
avors. Add the oil or vinegar and transfer to a storage container. You may leave
the mixture as is and use it as you would a pure, or you may strain it to remove
the ber and pulp.
Method 4: COLD INFUSION: Combine room-temperature oil or vinegar with
ground spices and transfer to a storage container. Let the mixture settle until the
liquid is clear and the spices have settled in the bottom of the container. Carefully
decant the liquid into a clean container once the desired avor is reached.
Note: When you introduce fresh or raw ingredients to an oil or vinegar, you run the risk of food-borne
illness if the nished product is not carefully stored. Although commercially prepared versions of avored
oils and vinegars are shelf stable, you should keep yours refrigerated, especially if you have used raw
garlic or shallots, as those ingredients may be carrying Clostridium botulinum and the liquid provides
the anaerobic environment necessary for its growth. Use them within a few days to be sure that they will
have the best avor and color.
284
CONDIMENTS
FLAVORED OILS
Flavored oils have been made for centuries by cooks in the Mediterranean when they
placed sprigs of herbs in jars of olive oil and used the infused oils for salads, to baste
roasting meats, and as condiments for grilled sh. Recently, chefs have become much
more interested in infused oils. By blanching and pureing a wide variety of herbs and
vegetables, chefs have created full-avored, highly colored oils that can be emulsied
with other ingredients in vinaigrettes or simply dribbled over foods as sauces themselves.
Flavored oils can be prepared from a variety of spices and from concentrated vegetable
juice as well. Although no less rich than butter, these oils contain no cholesterol and have
a brightness of color and avor that enhances a dish much more than butter.
VINEGARS
Like oil, vinegar can be used as a condiment by itself. It can be sprinkled over grilled or
sauted sh instead of a sauce or lemon juice. Malt vinegar is often used on fried sh.
Vinegar and oil can be sprinkled on grilled dishes. You could also use aged vinegars
like authentic balsamic or aged sherry vinegar, where just a few drops are placed on
the items. Fruit-avored vinegars are used as sauce for main items on a plate. Herbs
such as basil, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, oregano, marjoram, savory, and lavender,
and blends such as herbes de Provence are being used to avor the vinegars, much as
herbs are being used to avor oils.
REDUCTIONS
Liquid is simmered separately and stirred constantly to evaporate excess quantity (such
as water), thus reducing the volume of the liquid into a thicker consistency, providing a
more intense avor. The resulting liquid is strained and then used as a base for sauces,
soups, and stews. Gravies, meat sauces, wine sauces, and fruit sauces are all examples
of reduction sauces that are used to enhance the avor of foods being served.
Cook the reduction sauce until evaporation decreases the sauce to half its beginning volume, turning down the heat to medium, being careful not to reduce the sauce
too much, which would result in a somewhat dull-tasting sauce with less aroma. Some
sauces require additional thickening, so it may be wise to add a little cornstarch or
our to assist with the consistency if necessary. Also, butter, extra-virgin olive oil, or
cream can be added to provide a thicker or more avorful sauce.
FOAMS
Foams consist of natural avors, such as fruit juices, mixed with a gelling or stabilizing
agent such as agar or lecithin, and either whipped with a handheld immersion blender
or extruded through a whipped cream canister equipped with N2O cartridges. Foams
have been described as airy, with the avor taking precedence over the substance
it is suspended in. Foams allow cooks to integrate new avors without changing the
physical composition of a dish.
JUICE EXTRACTIONS
Juice extractions provide the sauce maker with a variety of ways to enhance a sauce,
dressing, or marinades nutritional prole, avor, and color. One of the simplest applications involves thickening the juice and using it as the primary sauce. You can also
285
use the juice as a poaching liquid, which can impart avor and color to many different
vegetables and proteins. Beet juice is an example of an extraction used to naturally
add color to other foods, such as pickled turnips or eggs. There are many different
juice combinations you can create to achieve interesting avors and aromas, or to
intensify avors already in a dish. You can also use the juice by itself as a dish: fresh
vegetable juices as beverages on menus are always appreciated.
The best way to obtain fresh juice is through mechanical juice extractors that
use sharp knives and centrifugal forces. Always use fully ripened fruits and vegetables,
and thoroughly wash and/or scrub the fruit or vegetable before putting it through the
extractor. Some juices should be simmered very gently to allow to self-clarify.
Freshly extracted juices spoil very quickly and loses their original avor rapidly. They
should be protected from high temperatures and light to avoid loss of nutrients and avor. Keep them covered at all times; sealed jars work very well to extend the shelf life of
extractions. They may also be frozen, protected well from air and freezer burn.
relish
Relish is a cooked, pickled, and chopped vegetable or fruit that is typically used
as a condiment.
A relish may be as simple as a mound of sliced cucumbers or radishes, or as complex as a curried onion relish, cooked in a pickle or brine, highly seasoned, and garnished with dried fruits. Relishes are served cold to act as a foil to hot or spicy foods,
or to liven up dishes that need some extra kick. Relishes consist of mixed chopped
vegetables or fruits and spices, with or without mustard. They may be sweet and sour.
Usually the vegetables have been pickled or preserved; better results are obtained by
the use of salt-stock vegetables (see page 287) than by fresh.
A good relish has an attractive color and appetizing appearance; most relishes
are crisp, fairly uniform pieces of vegetables with a very small amount of liquid. The
relish is moist but not watery.
chutney
Chutney is similar in consistency to jelly, salsa, or relish and is used as a sweet-andsour condiment. Usually made fresh, chutney contains fruit and sugar to give it a
sweet taste, and almost all chutney contains vinegar and perhaps onions to give it a
corresponding sour avor. The ingredients are mixed together and then simmered
slowly. While chutney is primarily sweet-and-sour, there can also be many variations
of spices, often giving it a hot and spicy avor.
Like jams and jellies, chutney can be chunky or smooth. In India, spicy chutney is
usually served with curry and often with cold meats and vegetables. Sweet chutney is a
pleasant addition to bread or crackers and cheese and can serve as a snack or small meal.
Some of the more popular ingredients for chutney, in addition to mangos, are
limes, apples, peaches, plums, apricots, tomatoes, lemons, and even coconuts. Additional
spices may include cloves, garlic, cilantro, mustard, cinnamon, ginger, cayenne, jalapeos, tamarind, and mint. Chutney is so diverse that it can be made with only a few of
these ingredients or several, to make a variety of avors and styles.
286
CONDIMENTS
Chutney is usually eaten fresh in its native India. In the United States and Britain,
offering chutney as a condiment is becoming nearly as popular as offering jam, relish,
and even ketchup. Chutney can be served at a formal dinner as a condiment for a
fancy meal or at a casual picnic with tortilla chips or crackers. Whatever the occasion,
chutney is a tasty, sweet-and-sour treat that is sure to please.
compote
Originally from Eastern Europe, compotes are made by cooking fruits or vegetables in
a avorful liquid, often in syrup. For the garde manger, savory compotes can be used
to accompany galantines or pts in much the same way that a chutney is used.
pickles
While we tend to think of cucumbers when we think of pickles, many other vegetables
and fruits can be pickled. Cabbage is pickled with salt to become sauerkraut; apples,
pears, peaches, and watermelon rind are pickled with avored vinegar brines.
Pickling cucumbers and other vegetables should be processed as soon after harvesting as possible, preferably within 24 hours.
Choose fresh, good-quality fruits and vegetables free of blemishes and uniform
in size. Imperfect and irregular fruits and vegetables can be cut up for relish after
pickling. Fruit may be slightly underripe. Wash all fruits and vegetables gently but
thoroughly to remove dirt and grit, which could start bacterial action.
Cider vinegar can be substituted for distilled white vinegar, although its deeper
color may cause a slight darkening of foods.
Use only fresh whole spices for full avor unless a recipe species ground spices.
Old spices may give a dusty avor to pickles.
Use water that is free of minerals as much as possible.
Use pure granulated salt rather than ordinary table salt when brining pickles.
curing pickles
The traditional way to make cucumber pickles is by curing them in a salt-and-water
solution until the raw cucumbers have been transformed into translucent pickle. This
takes 6 to 8 weeks. The salt stock is then drained and the surplus salt in the cucumbers is withdrawn by soaking or light cooking. Next, vinegar, spices, sugar, and other
seasonings are added, depending on the type of pickles desired.
Sauerkraut is pickled with salt alone and allowed to ferment. Other vegetables and
fruits are pickled in vinegar solutions, often with salt, sugar, and other seasonings.
287
applejack-brandied
cherry coulis
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
1 lb 8 oz/680 g sweet
cherries, pitted
cup/60 mL
applejack brandy
3 tbsp/45 mL
minced shallots
1 tbsp/15 mL cider vinegar
1 tbsp/15 mL brown sugar
4 bay leaves
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Combine all of the ingredients in a 2-qt/2-L sauce pot.
6.
Store under refrigeration for up to 2 weeks or freeze for later use.
Simmer covered over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Uncover and simmer until the liquid is almost dry, 5 to 10 minutes.
Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Remove the bay leaves. Pure in a blender, then pass through a tamis or
sieve. Transfer to a clean storage container and refrigerate.
tsp/2.50 mL
orange marmalade and

jalapeo sauce
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
12 oz/340 g
orange marmalade
cup/60 mL ruby
port wine
Combine all the ingredients in a 1-qt/1-L saucepan. Simmer on low heat

for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.

1 tsp/5 mL minced jalapeo
tsp/2.50 mL chili powder
tsp/1.25 mL
ground cumin
tsp/1.25 mL soy sauce
288
CONDIMENTS
fresh plum and

horseradish coulis
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
2 cloves
2 allspice berries
2 bay leaves
1 lb/454 g plums, pitted,
cut into -in/1-cm chunks
tsp/2.50 mL
nely minced garlic
2 tbsp/30 mL
chopped shallot
1.
Wrap the cloves, allspice, and bay leaves in cheesecloth and tie with string to
make a sachet. Place the sachet in a small saucepan.
2.
Add the plums, garlic, shallot, wine, horseradish, lemon juice, and salt, and
mix to combine. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. When the mixture is
lukewarm, remove the sachet. Pure in a blender until smooth.
4. Adjust the seasoning and cool completely. Store covered under refrigeration
until needed.
cup/60 mL red wine

1 tbsp/15 mL grated
horseradish
1 tsp/5 mL lemon juice
8 tsp/0.625 mL kosher salt
289
adobo sauce
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 oz/57 g dried ancho
chiles, stemmed, seeded
1 oz/43 g dried
New Mexico chiles,
stemmed, seeded
Boiling water, as needed
10 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 cinnamon stick,
in/1 cm long
8 tsp/0.625 mL
cumin seeds
3 oz/90 mL cider vinegar
cup/60 mL water
cup/60 mL
chocolate sauce
tsp/2.50 mL
dried oregano
tsp/2.50 mL dried thyme
1. Roast the garlic cloves on a griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat, turning
frequently, until blackened in spots and very soft, about 15 minutes. Set aside to
cool.
2.
3.
Peel the cloves and rough-chop. Set aside.
While the garlic is roasting, tear the chiles into at pieces and toast them
a few at a time on a griddle or heavy skillet. Use a metal spatula to press them
rmly against the hot surface for a few seconds until they blister, crackle, and
change color, then ip them over and press them at to toast the other side.
4.
Place the chiles in a small mixing bowl and cover them with boiling water.
Cover the chiles with a plate to keep them submerged. Soak the chiles for 30
minutes.
5.
6.
Drain the chiles and tear them into smaller pieces. Set aside.
With a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder, grind the peppercorns, bay
leaves, cinnamon, and cumin.
7. In a blender, combine the garlic, chiles, and spice mixture. Add the
vinegar, water, chocolate sauce, salt, oregano, and thyme. Pulse until the mixture
reduces to a paste. Continue pulsing, scraping the sides of the blender with a
rubber spatula, and stirring the mixture until smooth. Add additional water if it
is absolutely necessary.
8. Strain the paste through a medium-mesh sieve into a nonreactive container
with a tight-tting lid. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
290
CONDIMENTS
cinnamon-rum
applesauce
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
8 medium apples, peeled,

cut into 1-in/3-cm chunks
cup/120 mL light
brown sugar
1 tsp/5 mL ground
cinnamon
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
lemon juice
1.
In a medium sauce pot, combine the apples, sugar, cinnamon, salt, lemon
juice, and wine. Add 3 tbsp/45 mL of the rum and cup/60 mL of the
hazelnuts. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes.
2.
Remove from the heat and cool the mixture slightly. Run through the ne
screen of a food mill.
3. Add the remaining 1 tbsp/15 mL rum, cup/120 mL chopped hazelnuts,

and the currants.
4. Mix and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover,
and refrigerate until needed.
cup/60 mL dark rum

cup/180 mL hazelnuts,
toasted, peeled, and
coarsely chopped
cup/120 mL
dried currants
291
cajun-style lime and

mustard-seed dressing
2 to 4 tbsp/30 to 60
mL lime juice
Whisk all the ingredients together in a stainless-steel bowl until well incorporated.
2 tsp/10 mL grated
lime zest
1 cups/360 mL
mayonnaise
2 tbsp/30 mL minced
green onions, green
and white parts
2 tbsp/30 mL minced
red pepper
cup/120 mL milk
2 tbsp/30 mL yellow
mustard seeds, toasted
1 tbsp/15 mL
Creole mustard
1 tbsp/15 mL brown sugar
1 tbsp/15 mL minced
fresh oregano or basil
292
CONDIMENTS
vinaigrette dressing
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
cup/120 mL
cider vinegar
cup/120 mL water or
stock, like vegetable
1 to 2 oz/28 to 57 g
Dijon mustard
Whisk together the vinegar, water, mustard, salt, pepper, parsley, chives, and tarragon. Gradually whisk in the oil. Adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer to a
clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
Presentation idea: Serve with head cheese and jellied meat products.

white pepper
fresh parsley
1 tsp/7.50 mL
chopped chives
fresh tarragon
3 cups/720 mL salad oil
fresh horseradish
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
1 cup/240 mL grated
horseradish, packed
Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover,

cup/60 mL distilled
white vinegar
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
kosher salt
293
herbed horseradish
sauce
MAKES ABOUT 1/ CUPS/360 ML

cup/160 mL mayonnaise
3 tbsp/45 mL grated
fresh horseradish
1 tsp/7.50 mL Dijon mustard
1.
2.
3.
In a stainless-steel mixing bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks.

In a separate mixing bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and mix well.
Fold in the whipped cream. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and
refrigerate until needed.
fresh parsley
fresh tarragon
fresh chervil
fresh chives
tsp/2.50 mL ground
white pepper
294
CONDIMENTS
apple and horseradish

cream
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
1 cup/240 mL coarsely
grated peeled Granny
Smith apple
cup/60 mL prepared
horseradish
1.
2.
3.
4.
Combine the grated apple and lemon juice. Mix well.

Add the horseradish, shallot, mayonnaise, salt, and sugar. Mix gently.
Whip the cream to stiff peaks. Fold into the apple mixture.
2 tbsp/30 mL minced
shallot, blanched
1 tsp/5 mL
granulated sugar
1 cup/240 mL heavy cream
295
mustard horseradish
sauce
2 cups/480 mL mayonnaise
cup/120 mL
Dijon mustard
Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Adjust the seasoning as needed. Transfer to

a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
3 tbsp/45 mL fresh or
prepared horseradish
Tabasco sauce, as needed
cranberry horseradish
cream
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
3 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick,
about 3 in/8 cm
8 oz/227 g cranberries
cup/60 mL honey
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
brown sugar
cup/80 mL dry sherry
1. Wrap the cloves, bay leaf, and cinnamon in cheesecloth and tie with string to
make a sachet.
2. In a saucepan, combine the sachet, cranberries, honey, sugar, and sherry.
Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat. Remove the sachet. In a blender, pure the cranberry
mixture. Transfer to a mixing bowl and cool to room temperature.
4. Fold the horseradish, mayonnaise, and whipped cream into the cranberry
mixture. Adjust seasoning. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and
2 tbsp/30 mL
prepared horseradish
296
CONDIMENTS
cranberrygreen
peppercorn mayonnaise
MAKES 2 CUPS/600 ML
2 bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick,
about 3 in/8 cm
2 cloves
cup/120 mL cranberries
3 tbsp/45 mL white wine
cup/80 mL honey
1 tbsp/22.50 mL green
peppercorns, chopped
1 cup/240 mL mayonnaise
1.
Wrap the bay leaves, cinnamon, and cloves in cheesecloth and tie with string
to make a sachet. In a saucepan, combine the sachet, cranberries, wine, and
honey.
2.
3.
4.
Cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Remove the sachet. Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop the
mixture. Transfer to a mixing bowl.
5. Add the peppercorns and mayonnaise. Adjust the seasoning as needed.

dill and mustard sauce

MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
4 tsp/20 mL Colmans
dry mustard
4 tsp/20 mL Dijon mustard
5 tbsp/75 mL
granulated sugar
2 tbsp/30 mL olive oil
tsp/1.25 mL lemon juice
1.
In a mixing bowl, whisk together the mustards, sugar, and salt. Whisk in the
oil, lemon juice, and vinegar alternating.
2.
Stir slowly until blended, then whisk vigorously to fully incorporate

the ingredients.
3. Fold in the sour cream and dill. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover,
Presentation idea: Serve with cold sh and shellsh.
1 tbsp/15 mL
white wine vinegar
cup/120 mL sour cream
2 tbsp/30 mL
chopped fresh dill
297
crme frache and

red-onion dill sauce
10 oz/284 g crme frache

cup/60 mL minced
red onion
Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover,

fresh dill
1 tsp/5 mL ground
white pepper
1 tbsp/15 mL
1 tsp/5 mL granulated sugar
tsp/2.50 mL Tabasco sauce
298
CONDIMENTS
mascarpone sauce
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
4 garlic cloves
1 lb/454 g mascarpone
cheese
cup/60 mL milk
Mash the garlic with the salt to form a paste. In a stainless-steel mixing bowl,
thoroughly combine the garlic paste with the remaining ingredients. Adjust the
seasoning as needed. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate
until needed.
Presentation idea: Serve with beef carpaccio.
cup/60 mL
Creole mustard
fresh oregano
1 tbsp/15 mL honey
fresh basil
2 tsp/10 mL distilled
white vinegar
tsp/2.50 mL ground
black pepper
299
curried peanut sauce

MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
cup/240 mL raw peanuts,

shelled, blanched
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
curry powder
1 tbsp/15 mL butter
2 medium shallots,
nely minced
1. Toast the peanuts and curry in the butter until brown. Add the shallots and
garlic and sweat for about 3 minutes.
2.
3.
Remove from the heat and rough-chop.
In a mixing bowl, combine the peanut mixture and the remaining ingredients.

cup/60 mL milk
tsp/2.50 mL Tabasco sauce
300
CONDIMENTS
cumberland sauce
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
oz/7 g orange zest,

nely julienned
oz/7 g lemon zest,
nely julienned
Juice from 2 medium
juicing oranges
oz/7 g minced shallot
1.
2.
Prepare the zests before juicing the fruits.
Blanch the zests and shallot by placing them in boiling water. Allow the
water to return to a boil and drain immediately.
3. In a saucepan, combine all the ingredients and bring to a simmer. Simmer

for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
Presentation idea: Serve with pts and terrines.
Boiling water, as needed

2 cups/480 mL currant jelly
1 cup/240 mL port wine
2 tsp/10 mL Colmans
dry mustard
Small pinch of cayenne
Small pinch of ground ginger
301
cold tarragon sauce

MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML
1 garlic clove, nely minced

tsp/1.25 mL
chopped shallots
cup/60 mL chicken stock
cup/80 mL chopped
fresh tarragon leaves
1 tbsp/15 mL honey
1. Combine the garlic, shallot, white wine, and chicken stock in a small sauce
pot. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
2.
3.
Uncover and reduce by half. Strain and reserve the liquid.
4.
5.
Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold into the tarragon mixture.
Combine the tarragon leaves, honey, vinegar, pepper, salt, and soy sauce in a
stainless-steel mixing bowl. Add the reserved liquid and mix thoroughly.
1 tbsp/15 mL white wine

or tarragon vinegar
tsp/2.50 mL ground
black pepper
1 tsp/5 mL soy sauce
302
CONDIMENTS
garlic and walnut sauce

cup/80 mL walnuts,
toasted, chopped
Combine all the ingredients in a stainless-steel mixing bowl. Adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.

1 tbsp/15 mL
balsamic vinegar
fresh oregano
1 tsp/5 mL
tsp/2.50 mL ground
black pepper
303
pickle relish
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
2 cups/480 mL peeled,
thinly sliced European
cucumbers
medium yellow
onion, thinly sliced
cup/80 mL distilled
white vinegar
cup/120 mL
granulated sugar
304
1. Combine the cucumbers and onion in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Sprinkle

with the salt. Cover and let stand for 2 to 3 hours under refrigeration.
2.
3.
Drain and rinse well.
In a small sauce pot, combine the vinegar and sugar. Bring to a simmer,
remove from the heat, and cool to room temperature.
4. Pour the cooled vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and onions. Mix
thoroughly.
5. Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
If desired, this may be frozen; the vegetables will be crisp and crunchy when
thawed.
CONDIMENTS
new england rhubarb

relish
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
garlic clove
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground cinnamon
1 tsp/7.50 mL
minced ginger
1 tsp/7.50 mL
pickling spice
1 qt/960 mL sliced rhubarb,
in 1-in/4-cm pieces
1.
Wrap the garlic, cinnamon, ginger, and pickling spice in cheesecloth and tie
with string to make a sachet.
2.
In a sauce pot, combine the rhubarb, sachet, onions, sugar, vinegar, and
salt. Simmer over low heat until the rhubarb is tender but not falling apart, 10 to
15 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat. Remove the sachet. Cool and transfer to a clean
storage container. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
2 cups/480 mL thinly
sliced white onions
2 cups/480 mL brown sugar
305
savory autumn relish

MAKES 1/ QT/1.44 L
10 medium green
tomatoes (2 lb /907 g)
1 medium green
bell peppers
1 medium red
bell peppers
1 celery stalks
1 large yellow onions
medium head
green cabbage
European
cucumber, peeled
1. Rough-chop the green tomatoes, green and red peppers, celery, onions, cabbage, and cucumber. Layer the plum tomatoes and other vegetables in a stainless-steel mixing bowl and sprinkle with the salt. Cover and let stand overnight
2.
3.
Drain and press out the liquid.
In a sauce pot, combine the vinegar, paprika, mustard, and sugar. Add the
well-drained vegetables and boil gently for 1 hour, or until the vegetables are
transparent.
4.
Cool and transfer to a clean storage container with a tight-tting lid. Cover
and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
2 cups/1 pt roughly
chopped plum tomatoes
3 cups/720 mL white
wine vinegar
tsp/2.50 mL sweet
or hot paprika
tsp/2.50 mL Colmans
dry mustard
2 cups/480 mL brown sugar
306
CONDIMENTS
sweet mango relish

with raisins
MAKES 3 TO 4 CUPS/720 TO 960 ML
3 cups/720 mL peeled,
pitted green mangoes,
1 large yellow onion
3 medium red
peppers, seeded
1 jalapeo or Fresno
chile pepper
1 tsp/7.50 mL white
mustard seeds
1 tsp/7.50 mL
celery seeds
1.
2.
3.
Place the mangos in a nonreactive sauce pot.

Chop the onion and peppers in the food processor.
Add the onion mixture, salt, mustard seeds, celery seeds, sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, and raisins to the mangos. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
4. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Let stand overnight
5.
Return the sauce pot to the heat and cook the relish until slightly thickened,
10 to 15 minutes.
6.
Cool and transfer to a clean storage container. Cover and refrigerate for up
to 2 weeks.
2 cups/480 mL
granulated sugar
cup/120 mL distilled
white vinegar
cinnamon stick
1 cup/240 mL raisins
307
tropical relish
MAKES 2 QT/1.92 ML
2 qt/1.92 mL peeled,
seeded guavas,
12 oz/340 g raisins
garlic clove
8 oz/227 g
preserved ginger
2 tbsp/30 mL white
mustard seeds
tsp/2.50 mL dried
Thai bird chiles
1. In a food processor, combine and chop the guavas, raisins, garlic, ginger,
mustard seeds, and chiles. Transfer to a nonreactive sauce pot and add the vinegar, sugar, celery seeds, and salt.
2. Boil for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Cover and let stand overnight under refrigeration.
3. If the relish is too thick, reheat it and add more vinegar to thin it out. Let
cool again.
4. Transfer to clean storage containers. Cover and refrigerate for about 2 weeks
to develop the avor before using.
white vinegar
2 cups/600 mL
granulated sugar
8 tsp/0.625 mL
celery seeds
308
CONDIMENTS
plain chutney
MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/960 ML TO 1.20 L

1 cups/300 mL
cider vinegar
3 medium apples,
such as Granny Smith,
peeled, diced small
1.
2.
3.
In a sauce pot, combine the sugar and vinegar and boil for 30 minutes.
Add the remaining ingredients and simmer until thick, 10 to 15 minutes.
to 2 weeks.
8 oz/227 g dates,
pitted, diced small
4 jalapeos, seeded,
diced small
8 oz/227 g currants
4 oz/113 g preserved
ginger, diced
1 tsp/5 mL grated ginger
8 oz/227 g dark raisins
8 oz/227 g orange and
lemon peels, diced small
1 tbsp/15 mL ground
cinnamon
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground allspice
2 oz/57 g onion,
ground to a paste
oz/14 g garlic,
ground to a paste
309
dried-fruit chutney
MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS 960 ML TO 1.20 L
4 oz/113 g dried apples

4 oz/113 g dried peaches
4 oz/113 g dried apricots
4 oz/113 g seedless raisins
4 oz/113 g dates, pitted
1 garlic clove,
nely chopped
1 cups/300 mL
8 oz/227 g
granulated sugar
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground allspice
1.
2.
3.
Soak the apples, peaches, and apricots overnight in water to cover.

Drain and reserve the liquid. Cut the fruit into small dice.
Combine the apples and reserved liquid in a sauce pot. Stew for 3 to 5 minutes.
Add the peaches and apricots and stew for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, until
the fruits have become soft.
4. Rough-chop the raisins and dates in a food processor. Add the garlic and
rough chop.
5. Add the raisin mixture, vinegar, sugar, allspice, salt, and cayenne to the sauce
pot and cook for 30 minutes, until the chutney is thick and soft, stirring frequently
so that the mixture will not stick to the bottom.
6. Cool and transfer to clean storage containers. Cover and refrigerate for up to
2 weeks.

Pinch of cayenne
310
CONDIMENTS
apple and banana

chutney
1 lb/454 g apples, such as

Granny Smith, peeled, cored
1. Finely chop the apples and onions. Cut the raisins in half. Peel the bananas
and slice into disks to in/6 mm to 1 cm thick.
6 oz/170 g yellow onions
2. In a sauce pot, combine the vinegar, salt, sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and curry powder. Bring to a boil. Add the fruit.
4 oz/113 g raisins
9 bananas
white vinegar
1 cup/240 mL
granulated sugar
3. Simmer gently for 2 hours, stirring frequently to prevent the bananas from
burning. When the mixture becomes thick and the fruit is tender, remove from
the heat.
4.
to 2 weeks.
tsp/2.50 mL
ground cinnamon
tsp/1.25 mL
cardamom pods
tsp/2.50 mL
ground ginger
oz/14 g curry powder
311
corkys southwest-style
BBQ sauce
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
4 tbsp/60 mL butter
1 cup/240 mL diced
yellow onions
1 tbsp/15 mL minced garlic
2 tbsp/30 mL diced
jalapeo chiles
2 tbsp/30 mL chili powder
cup/120 mL strong
brewed coffee
cup/120 mL
cup/120 mL ketchup
1.
2.
3.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and sweat until tender.
Add the garlic and chile. Continue to cook for 2 to 3 minutes.
Stir in the chili powder and cook over moderate heat until the avor of the
chili powder is developed, 2 to 3 more minutes.
4. Add the coffee, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, vinegar, and sugar. Simmer
for about 45 minutes.
5.
6.
Whisk the cornstarch with the water until smooth.
7.
Transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Stir the slurry into the sauce to adjust the thickness. Bring the sauce back to
a boil before cooling.

1 tbsp/15 mL cornstarch
cup/60 mL water
312
CONDIMENTS
tomato ketchup
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
6 lb/2.72 kg plum tomatoes

1 large yellow
onions, diced small
1 medium red bell pepper,
seeded, diced small
garlic clove
1 cinnamon stick
(1 in/4 cm long)
tsp/2.50 mL black
peppercorns
tsp/2.50 mL
allspice berries
1 tsp/7.50 mL cloves
dried chile
tsp/2.50 mL celery seeds
1.
2.
Peel and rough-chop the tomatoes.
In a nonreactive, sauce pot, combine the tomatoes, onions, bell pepper, and
garlic. Cook slowly until the vegetables become soft, 15 to 20 minutes.
3.
Strain through a ne-mesh sieve and transfer to a clean sauce pot. Simmer
over low heat for about 30 minutes.
4. Wrap the cinnamon, peppercorns, allspice, cloves, chile, and celery seeds in
cheesecloth and tie with string to make a sachet. Add the sachet, sugar, vinegar,
salt, paprika, and mustard to the sauce pot. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, until very
thick, stirring frequently.
5.
Remove from the heat and discard the sachet. Strain through a ne-mesh
sieve.
6.
Cool and transfer to plastic storage containers with tight-tting lids. Cover
cup/120 mL light
brown sugar, packed
white vinegar
tbsp/11.25 mL
kosher salt
1 tsp/7.50 mL
sweet paprika
1 tsp/7.50 mL
Colmans dry mustard
313
papaya ketchup
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
cup/60 mL vegetable oil

2 oz/57 g yellow
onion, diced small
medium red pepper,
diced small
medium green
pepper, diced small
1 tsp/5 mL minced garlic
1 tsp/5 mL curry powder
1 tsp/5 mL ground cumin
1 papaya, (17.9 oz/507.4
g), peeled, seeded,
diced medium
cup/120 mL
pineapple juice
1.
2.
Heat the oil in a saut pan over medium heat until hot, but not smoking.
3.
4.
Add the bell peppers and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently.
Saut the onion, stirring frequently, until the onion becomes translucent and
begin to char slightly, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add the garlic, allspice, curry, and cumin and cook an additional 2 minutes,
stirring constantly. The mixture will be quite dry at this point.
5. Add the papaya, pineapple juice, vinegar, and molasses. Mix well and bring
to a boil.
6. Reduce heat to low; simmer until the mixture is slightly thinner than tomato
ketchup, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. (The mixture will
thicken more as it cools.)
7. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Adjust seasoning as needed. Transfer
to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
cup/60 mL distilled
white vinegar
1 tbsp/15 mL molasses
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
lemon juice
tbsp/11.25 mL
kosher salt
tsp/1.25 mL ground
black pepper
314
CONDIMENTS
peach ketchup
MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS/960 ML TO 1.20 L
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg tomatoes,
peeled, chopped
4 medium peaches
(6.155 oz/174.6 g ea),
peeled, pitted, chopped
1.
2.
In a sauce pot, simmer the tomatoes and peaches for 20 to 25 minutes.
Strain into a clean sauce pot. Add the sugar, vinegar, cloves, and cinnamon
and boil for 2 hours.
3. Cool and transfer to clean storage containers. Cover and refrigerate for up
to 2 weeks.
white or cider vinegar
oz/7 g ground cloves
oz/7 g ground cinnamon
zesty cranberry ketchup

MAKES 4/ CUPS/1.08 L
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg
cranberries
8 oz/227 g yellow
onions, chopped
1 cups/360 mL water
3 cups/720 mL
granulated sugar
1 cups/360 mL
white vinegar
1. In a sauce pot, cook the cranberries and onions in the water until tender,
20 to 25 minutes.
2. Strain through a ne-mesh sieve into a clean sauce pot. Add the sugar, vinegar,
cloves, cinnamon, lemon juice, pepper, allspice, and salt and boil until thick,
about 2 hours. Remove from heat and cool.
3. Transfer to a clean storage container. Cover and refrigerate for up to
2 weeks.
1 tsp/3.75 mL
ground cloves
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground cinnamon
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
lemon juice
black pepper
1 tsp/7.50 mL
ground allspice
315
mango, papaya,
orange, and lime salsa
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
2 medium oranges
(7 oz/198 g)
1 medium mango (19.82
oz/561.9 g), peeled,
seeded, diced small
Grate the orange zest. Make suprmes from the oranges. In a nonreactive mixing
bowl, combine and mix the suprmes with the remaining ingredients. Adjust the
seasoning. Serve immediately or transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and
1 medium Hawaiian papaya

(17.9 oz 507.4 g), peeled,
seeded, diced small
2 oz/57 g red onion cut
into -in/1-cm cubes
2 oz/57 g red pepper cut
into -in/1-cm cubes
1 to 2 tbsp/22.50 to 30 mL
lime juice
2 tbsp/30 mL cilantro,
cut into chiffonade
2 tbsp/30 mL mint,
cut into chiffonade
1 tbsp/22.50 mL toasted
ground New Mexico chiles
tsp/2.50 mL
ground cumin
tsp/2.50 mL ground
black pepper
Salt, as needed
316
CONDIMENTS
green chile salsa

MAKES 2 QT/1.92 L
8 oz/227 g yellow
onions, diced small
1 tbsp/15 mL minced garlic
6 green onions, green and
white parts, chopped
One 29-oz/822-g
can tomato pure
1. In a sautoir, sweat the onions and garlic in the oil over medium-high heat
until lightly tender.
2.
3.
Stir in the green onions. Remove from the heat. Let cool slightly.
Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Adjust the seasoning. Serve
immediately or transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until
needed.
One 28-oz/794-g can mild

green chiles
white vinegar
3 tbsp/45 mL
chopped cilantro
3 tbsp/45 mL
granulated sugar
2 to 4 tbsp/30 to 60
mL lime juice
1 tbsp/15 mL
minced jalapeo
1 tbsp/15 mL mild
chili powder
1 tbsp/15 mL
2 tsp/10 mL cumin
seeds, toasted, crushed
317
corn salsa
MAKES 1 QT/960 ML
2 lb/907 g tomato concass

2 lb/907 g corn kernels,
preferably fresh
1 medium yellow
onion, diced small
2 tbsp/30 mL
chopped cilantro
1. In a sautoir, combine the tomato concass, corn, onion, vinegar, cilantro,

tomato paste, oregano, and garlic. Bring to a simmer and simmer over low heat
for about 10 minutes.
2.
3.
Add the jalapeo and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency, about 5 minutes. Remove from the
heat and let cool. Season with salt as needed. Serve immediately or transfer to a
clean storage container, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
2 tbsp/30 mL tomato paste

2 tsp/10 mL chopped
fresh oregano
1 jalapeo, seeded, diced
Salt, as needed
beet sauce
MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
10 medium red
beets, peeled
tsp/1.25 mL ground
black pepper
4 tsp/20 mL rice vinegar
6 tbsp/90 mL
unsalted butter
318
1.
2.
Using a juicer, juice enough beets to make 4 cups/960 mL liquid (see Note).
3.
4.
Add the rice wine vinegar and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes.
Pour the beet juice into a sauce pot and slowly reduce by half, skimming
away the foam as it forms. Season as needed with salt and pepper.
Mount the beet sauce with butter just before use.
Note: The juice can be kept for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator, or frozen for later use.
CONDIMENTS
fresh-pack dill pickles

MAKES 50 LB/22.68 KG
45 to 50 lb/20.41 to 22.68 kg
Kirby pickling cucumbers
6 cups/1.62 L pure
granulated Kosher salt
6 gal/23.04 L cool water
1 gal 2 cups/4.32 L
6 qt/6.48 L water
cup/180 mL
granulated sugar
1 cup/240 mL mixed
pickling spices, divided
into 2 sachets
4 garlic heads,
divided into 2 sachets
3 bunches dill heads,
green or dry, divided
into 2 sachets
or
1 cup/240 mL dill seed,
1. Wash the cucumbers thoroughly. Rinse and drain the cucumbers. In a large
plastic bucket or tub, cover them with a brine made of 4 cups/1.08 L salt and
6 gal/23.14 L cool water. Let stand overnight under refrigeration. Make sure to
keep the cucumbers submerged in brine.
2.
3.
Rinse and drain the cucumbers.
In a large stockpot, combine the vinegar, 6 qt/6.48 L water, the remaining

2 cups/540 mL salt, and sugar. Bring to a boil and keep hot.
4. Wrap the pickling spices, garlic heads, dill heads green or dry, or dill seeds
and chiles in cheesecloth and tie with string to make sachets.
5.
Pack half of the cucumbers to within in/1 cm of the top of a 5-gal/19.20-L

tub. Cover with hot pickling liquid and top with one sachet. Fill a second tub
with the remaining cucumbers, pickling liquid, and sachet.
6.
7.
Cover the tubs with tight-tting lids.
Let the pickles rest for 3 weeks under refrigeration. Remove the sachets and
hold for another use.
21 dried Thai bird chile,

319
little pickled apples

MAKES 2 QT/1.92 L
1 tbsp/15 mL
allspice berries
1 tbsp/15 mL cloves
1 cinnamon stick
(3 in/8 cm)
2 cups/480 mL
cider vinegar
2 cups/480 mL white
wine vinegar
6 lb/2.72 kg crab apples
or small tart apples
1. Wrap the allspice, cloves, and cinnamon stick in cheesecloth and tie with
string to make a sachet. In a sauce pot, bring the vinegars, sugar, and sachet to a
boil. Continue simmering for 15 minutes, skimming as necessary.
2. Trim the blossom ends of the apples. Wash the apples and add them to the
sauce pot.
3. Simmer over low heat until the apples are tender, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Remove the apples using a slotted spoon.
4.
5.
Transfer the apples to clean storage containers.
Reduce the cooking liquid until it forms a thick syrup. Pour the syrup over
the apples.
6. Cover the containers with tight-tting lids and refrigerate. The apples may
be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks or frozen for 1 to 2 months if desired.
Note: If the apples are cored, cut the cooking time by a third or about 10 minutes so that
the apples will not lose their shape.
320
CONDIMENTS
pickled lady apples

MAKES 6 CUPS/1.44 L
3 cinnamon sticks
(3 in/8 cm ea)
16 cloves
1 lb 8 oz/680 g
granulated sugar
1 cup/240 mL cider vinegar
3 lb/1.36 kg lady apples
1. Wrap the cinnamon sticks and cloves in cheesecloth and tie with string to
make a sachet.
2. In a sauce pot, bring the sugar, vinegar, and sachet to a boil. Boil for 10
minutes.
3. Steam the apples over the boiling liquid until tender, about 40 minutes.
Transfer the apples to clean storage containers.
4. Pour the hot syrup over the apples. Cover the containers with tight-tting
lids and refrigerate. The apples may be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Note: Check the apples to make sure they are not bruised. The apples should be left whole
and unpeeled.
321
pickled red onion

1 small red onion,

cut into julienne
cup/120 mL water
cup/120 mL white
wine vinegar
cup/60 mL
granulated sugar
1. In a sauce pot, combine all of the ingredients and simmer for 10 minutes,
until the sugar and salt have dissolved.
2.
3.
Remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes.
Cool to room temperature and transfer to clean storage containers. Cover


1 tsp/5 mL yellow
mustard seeds
1 tsp/5 mL black peppercorns
1 tsp/5 mL chopped ginger
1 clove
322
CONDIMENTS
pickled seckel pears

MAKES 7 TO 8 CUPS/1.68 TO 1.92 L
4 cups/960 mL
granulated sugar
1 qt/960 mL distilled
white vinegar
1 cups/360 mL water
2 cinnamon sticks
(4 in/10 cm long)
1 tbsp/15 mL cloves
3 tsp/16.25 mL
allspice berries
2 tsp/10 mL yellow
mustard seeds
1 dried Thai bird chile
4 lb/1.81 kg Seckel pears
1 gal/3.84 L cold water
3 tbsp/45 mL distilled
white vinegar
1. In a sauce pot, combine the sugar, vinegar, water, and the larger cinnamon
sticks. Wrap the cloves, allspice, mustard seeds, and chile in cheesecloth and tie
with string to make a sachet. Add the sachet to the sauce pot and simmer,
covered, for about 30 minutes.
2.
3.
Wash and peel the pears. Remove the blossom ends, leaving the stems on.
Combine the cold water, salt, and vinegar in a large container. Hold
the pears in the container while the cooking liquid simmers. Drain the pears
before use.
4.
When the syrup has simmered for 30 minutes, drain and add the pears.
Cover with a clean towel or cloth to ensure proper poaching. Continue simmering
for 20 to 25 minutes.
5. Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and transfer them to storage
containers.
6. Add 1 small cinnamon stick to each container, then cover the pears with
boiling syrup to within in/1 cm of the top. Cover with tight-tting lids and
refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
4 cinnamon sticks
(2 in/5 cm long)
323
sauerkraut
The Pennsylvania Dutch are credited with introducing sauerkraut to the United
States. Its health-giving properties have been recognized for 200 years. For this
recipe, choose large, rm, well-ripened heads of cabbage. Let the cabbage stand
at room temperature for a day to wilt. The wilting causes the leaves to become
less brittle. The cabbage is less likely to break during cutting when it is wilted.
MAKES 16 QT/15.36 L
50 lb/22.68 kg large
heads green cabbage
2 cups/480 mL kosher salt
1. Trim the outer leaves of the cabbages. Wash the cabbages. With a large
knife, cut the heads into halves or quarters.
2.
Remove the cores. Cut the cabbages using an electric slicer. The blade
should be set to about the thickness of a dime. (The setting may be varied, depending upon individual preference, for a ner or coarser cut.)
3. Mix the salt and cabbage in a large mixing bowl or stainless-steel pan. Let
the salted cabbage stand for 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Pack the cabbage into stone jars, crocks, or plastic pickle buckets. If these are
unavailable, a deep plastic container may be used instead.
5.
6.
Press the cabbage into the container until the juices comes to the surface.
Cover the cabbage with a clean cheesecloth or plastic cover and then with a
cover that ts inside the container. (The cover is very important and should be of
a size that ts snugly inside the container.)
7. Place a weight on top of the cover so that the juices come up to the bottom
of the cover, but not over it.
8.
Place the cabbage at a room temperature of 68 to 72F/20 to 22C. This

temperature is recommended so that the cabbage can ferment. The cabbage will
be ready after 5 to 6 weeks. If it is kept at 75 to 80F/24 to 27C, the fermentation will take place faster, and should be ready in about 2 weeks.
9. During this time, check the sauerkraut often. If the juice level is too high,
place a lighter weight on the cover, or if there is not enough juice, use a heavier
weight.
324
CONDIMENTS
10. Every few days, skim the scum off the surface of the brine and change
and replace the cheesecloth, if using. When the sauerkraut is nished, it can be
packed in 1-gallon zippered bags, and stored under refrigeration.
Notes: Packing is often the cause of unnecessary bruising and tearing and can result in
a softening of the sauerkraut. Let the cabbage stand at room temperature, and when you
are placing the sauerkraut in the barrel, try not to bruise it by pushing down too much.
If you allow the cabbage to stand for a few minutes after salting, you should have enough
brine so that the cabbage can easily be packed by hand.
Common indications of spoilage are off-avors, off-odors, soft texture, and undesirable
color (the sauerkraut turns pink). Softness in sauerkraut may be caused by insufcient salt,
uneven distribution of salt, air pockets from improper packing, or too high an ambient temperature during fermentation. You can slow the fermentation or speed the process by placing it in a warmer environment or by a colder place.
Growth of certain types of yeasts on the surface of the sauerkraut, due to excess salt or
uneven distribution of salt, causes the sauerkraut to turn pink. It will also turn pink if it has
been improperly covered or weighted during the fermentation process. Clear off the top
part and the remainder should be ne.
325
sauerkraut salad
MAKES 3 CUPS/720 ML
2 cups/480 mL
prepared sauerkraut
1 medium yellow
onion, diced small
Drain the sauerkraut slightly. Combine all ingredients thoroughly. Adjust the
seasoning if needed. Serve immediately or transfer to a clean storage container,
cover, and refrigerate.
1 medium Granny Smith

apple (9 oz/255 g),
coarsely grated
2 dill pickles (8 oz/227 g),
diced small
cup/120 mL
grated carrots
fresh parsley
1 tsp/5 mL caraway seeds
Salt, as needed
as needed
Granulated sugar,
as needed
326
CONDIMENTS
spiced pears
1 lb 12 oz/794 g
pears (7 or 8 ea)
cup/180 mL plus
1 tbsp/45 mL distilled
white vinegar
2 cups/600 mL water
1 cups/300 mL
granulated sugar
1-in/3-cm piece
ginger, peeled
1 tbsp/15 mL cloves
3 cinnamon sticks
(3 in/8 cm long)
1. Wash, peel, and core the pears. Cut them into wedges. Mix the 1 tbsp/45 mL
vinegar and cup/120 mL of the water. Add the pears to the vinegar-water
solution to prevent browning.
2. In a sauce pot, combine the remaining 2 cups/480 mL water, the
cup/180 mL vinegar, the sugar, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil.
3. Wrap the ginger, cloves, and cinnamon in cheesecloth and tie with string
to make a sachet. Drain the pears. Add the pears and sachet to the sauce pot.
Cover and simmer for 5 minutes, or until tender.
4.
Remove the sachet. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pears from the
cooking liquid and transfer them to clean storage containers. Add cooking liquid
to within 1 in/3 cm of the top of the containers.
5. Cover with tight-tting lids and refrigerate. (The pears are best when left to
sit and develop avor for 1 week.)
327
spiced watermelon rind

MAKES 2 QT/1.92 L
3 lb/1.36 kg watermelon
rind (see Notes)
5 cups/1.20 L water
4 cups/1.20 L
granulated sugar
2 cups/480 mL plus
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 tbsp/15 mL cloves
3 tsp/16.25 mL
allspice berries
1 tbsp/15 mL coarsely
chopped cinnamon stick
1 lemon, sliced
1. Remove all of the green skin from the rind and cut the rind in large dice (see
Notes). Place in a nonreactive container.
2. Cover the watermelon rind with 4 cups/960 mL of the water. Add the salt,
cover, and let the rind sit overnight.
3. Drain the rind. In a sauce pot, combine the rind and enough water to cover.
Cook the rind, covered, over low heat until tender, about 2 hours.
4. Meanwhile, in another sauce pot, combine the sugar, vinegar, and remaining
1 cup/240 mL water. Wrap the cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and lemon slices in
cheesecloth and tie with string to make a sachet. Add the sachet to the sugarvinegar mixture. Boil for 5 minutes.
5. Drain the watermelon rind and add it to the vinegar mixture. Cook until the
rind is transparent, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
6. Remove the sachet. Cool and transfer the rind to clean storage containers.
Pour the cooking liquid over the rind. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 weeks.
The spiced rind may be eaten by itself or served in salads.
Notes: Watermelons with thick rind make the best pickles.
For a fancier look, the watermelon rind can be cut into various shapes, such as diamonds,
by hand or with small cookie cutters.
328
CONDIMENTS
sweet mixed-pickle
chow chow
1 medium head cauliower

1 medium green
bell pepper
1 medium red bell pepper
12 oz/340 g medium
yellow onions
1 cups/300 mL
cup/180 mL water
cup/180 mL
granulated sugar
1 tbsp/22.50 mL
kosher salt
1.
2.
Wash the cauliower and break it down into small orets.
Cook the orets in boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain the orets. Cut
the peppers into -in/6-mm strips. Peel and quarter the onions. Set the
vegetables aside.
3. In a sauce pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, mustard and celery
seeds, and turmeric. Cover and bring to a boil.
4.
5.
Add the vegetables to the sauce pot and boil, uncovered, for 2 minutes.
Cool and transfer the vegetables to clean storage containers, packing the
vegetables to about 8 in/3 mm from the top.
6. Pour the vinegar mixture over the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate
until needed.
1 tsp/7.50 mL yellow
mustard seeds
1 tsp/7.50 mL
celery seeds
1 tsp/7.50 mL turmeric
329
sweet pickle chips

MAKES 5 CUPS/1.20 L
3 lb/1.36 kg Kirby or
regular cucumbers
5 cups/1.32 L
cider vinegar
tbsp/11.25 mL yellow
mustard seeds
3 cups/720 mL
granulated sugar
white vinegar
tsp/2.50 mL celery seeds
1. Wash the cucumbers thoroughly. Slice the cucumbers into -in/6-mm

slices.
2. Combine the cucumbers with the cider vinegar, salt, mustard seeds, and
cup/60 mL of the sugar in a sauce pot. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes.
Drain the cucumbers and discard the liquid.
3. Bring the remaining 2 cups/660 mL sugar, the white vinegar, celery seeds,
allspice, and turmeric to a boil, making sure the sugar is dissolved. Lower to a
simmer. While the vinegar mixture is simmering, transfer the cucumbers to clean
storage containers and ll to within 8 in/3 mm from the top. Pour enough of
the vinegar mixture over the cucumbers to cover.
4.
Cover with tight-tting lids and refrigerate until needed.
tsp/2.50 mL
whole allspice
tsp/2.50 mL turmeric
330
CONDIMENTS
apple and fennel salad

MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML
1 cup/240 mL shaved
fennel bulb
3 medium red
apples (8 oz/227 g),
unpeeled, julienned
Combine the fennel, apples, lemon juice, and olive oil. Adjust the seasoning as
needed. Serve immediately or transfer to a clean storage container, cover, and

1 tbsp/15 mL
extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, as needed
Ground pepper, as needed
fennel pure
MAKES / CUP/120 ML
cup/120 mL chopped
fennel fronds
cup/60 mL chopped
fennel bulb
Pure the fennel fronds and bulb, oil, water, lemon juice, and garlic together
in a blender. Strain through a ne-mesh sieve into a clean storage container and
season. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
cup/60 mL
extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp/45 mL cold water
tsp/2.50 mL
minced garlic
Salt, as needed
Ground pepper, as needed
331
resources
The following are some Web sites that may be of use when learning about charcuterie:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charcuterie
http://www.fsis.usda.gov/fact_Sheets/Sausage_and_Food_Safety/index.asp
http://www.jlindquist.net/generalmicro/324sausage.html
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/necfe/pubs/pdf/FactSheets/FS_
FermentedSausages.pdf
suggested resources
books
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. The River Cottage Meat Book. 2007.
Jane Grigson. The Art of Charcuterie. Alfred A Knopf, 1968.
John Kinsella and David T. Harvey. The Professional Charcuterie. John Wiley & Sons,
Inc., 1996.
Rytek Kutas. Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing. The Sausage Maker, Inc., 1999.
Meat Evaluation Handbook. www.meatsscience.org.
The Meat We Eat. www.amazon.com.
Lue & Ed Parks. The Smoked-Foods Cookbook. Stackpole Books, 1992.
Michael Ruhlman & Brian Polcyn. Charcuterie. W. W. Norton & Company Ltd., 2005.
web sites
government
UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE www.usda.gov
INTERNATIONAL MEAT & POULTRY HACCP ALLIANCE www.haccpalliance.org
PARTNERSHIP FOR FOOD SAFETY EDUCATION www.ghtbac.org
IOWA STATE UNIVERSITY www.extension.iastate.edu/foodsafety
associations
AMERICAN MEAT SCIENCE ASSOCIATION www.meatscience.org
NATIONAL PORK BOARD www.porkboard.org
332
RESOURCES
equipment and supplies

SARATOGA FOOD SPECIALTIES [email protected]
ALKAR [email protected]
COZZINI, INC .
[email protected]
KOCH EQUIPMENT [email protected]

WORLD PAC INTERNATIONAL U.S.A.
[email protected]
POLY-CLIP SYSTEM CORPORATION [email protected]

CHR HANSEN
www.chr-hansen.com
LANCE INDUSTRIES
333
conversion tables
weights
To calculate weight, use following:
1 ounce = 28.35 grams
1 pound = 453.59 grams
Round to the nearest gram (ending in 5 or 0), or to two decimal points for kilograms
334
U.S. UNIT
METRIC
EQUIVALENTS
U.S. UNIT
METRIC
EQUIVALENTS
ounce
14
11 ounces
312
ounce
21.26
12 ounces ( lb)
340
1 ounce
28.35
13 ounces
369
1 ounces
43
14 ounces
397
1 ounces
49.61
15 ounces
425
2 ounces
57
16 ounces (1 lb)
454
2 ounces
70
1 lb
454
3 ounces
85
1 lb 1 oz
482
3 ounces
100
1 lb 2 oz
510
4 ounces ( lb)
114
1 lb 3 oz
540
4 ounces
128
1 lb (1 lb 4 oz)
567
5 ounces
142
1 lb 5 oz
595
6 ounces
170
1 lb 6 oz
624
7 ounces
198
1 lb 7 oz
652
8 ounces
227
1 lb (1 lb 8 oz)
680
9 ounces
255
1 lb 9 oz
709
10 ounces
284
1 lb 10 oz
734
10 ounces
300
1 lb 11 oz
765
CONVERSION TABLES
U.S. UNIT
METRIC
EQUIVALENTS
U.S. UNIT
METRIC
EQUIVALENTS
1 lb (1 lb 12 oz )
(28 oz)
794
5 lb
2.50 kg
6 lb
2.27 kg
1 lb 13 oz
822
7 lb
3.18 kg
1 lb 14 oz
851
7 lb
3.40 kg
1 lb 15 oz
879
8 lb
3.63 kg
2 lb
908
9 lb
4.08 kg
2 lb
1.02 kg
10 lb
4.54 kg
2 lb
1.14 kg
11 lb
4.98 kg
2 lb
1.25 kg
12 lb
5.44 kg
3 lb
1.36 kg
13 lb
5.90 kg
3 lb
1.47 kg
13 lb
6.12 kg
3 lb (3 lb 8 oz)
1.59 kg
14 lb
6.35 kg
3 lb (3 lb 12 oz)
1.70 kg
15 lb
6.80 kg
4 lb
1.81 kg
16 lb
7.25 kg
4 lb (4 lb 4 oz)
1.93 kg
20 lb
9.07 kg
4 lb (4 lb 8 oz)
2.04 kg
21 lb
9.52 kg
4 lb
2.15 kg
25 lb
11.34 kg
5 lb
2.27 kg
335
volumes
1 tablespoon = 14.8 milliliters
1 cup (8 oz) = 237 milliliters
U.S. VOLUME
MEASURE
336
CONVERSION OPTIONS (IN

ORDER OF PREFERENCE)
METRIC EQUIVALENT
teaspoon
1 mL
teaspoon
2 mL
teaspoon
3 mL
1 teaspoon
5 mL
oz
1 tablespoon
15 mL
1 oz
2 tablespoons
1/8 cup
30 mL
1 oz
3 tablespoons
45 mL
2 oz
cup
4 tablespoons
60 mL
22/3 oz
1/3 cup
51/3 tablespoons
80 mL
3 oz
6 tablespoons
90 mL
4 oz
cup
8 tablespoons
pint
120 mL
5 oz
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons

10 tablespoons
150 mL
6 oz
cup
12 tablespoons
180 mL
7 oz
cup plus 2 tablespoons

14 tablespoons
200 mL
8 oz
1 cup
pint
16 tablespoons
240 mL
10 oz

21 tablespoons
300 mL
11 oz
325 mL
CONVERSION TABLES
U.S. VOLUME
MEASURE

METRIC EQUIVALENT
12 oz
1 cups
pint
360 mL
13 oz
1 cups plus 2
tablespoons
385 mL
14 oz
1 cups
415 mL
15 oz
445 mL
16 oz
2 cups
1 pint
480 mL
20 oz
2 cups
1 pints
600 mL
22 oz
2 cups
660 mL
24 oz
3 cups
1 pints
720 mL
26 oz
780 mL
28 oz
3 cups
1 pints
840 mL
32 oz
4 cups
1 quart
.95 L (1L)
36 oz
4 cups
1 quart plus 4 oz
40 oz
5 cups
2 pints
1.2 L
48 oz
6 cups
3 pints
1 quarts
1.41 L (1.4L)
64 oz
2 quarts
8 cups
gallon
1.89 L (2L)
337
volumes (continued)
338
U.S. VOLUME
MEASURE

METRIC EQUIVALENT
96 oz
3 quarts
12 cups
2.8 L
112 oz
7 pints
14 cups
3 quarts
3.3 L
128 oz
1 gallon
4 quarts
8 pints
16 cups
3.75 L
160 oz
5 quarts
1 gallons
10 pints
20 cups
4.75 L
192 oz
6 quarts
1 gallons
12 pints
5.75 L
224 oz
7 quarts
1 gallons
14 pints
6.65 L
256 oz
2 gallons
8 quarts
7.5 L
288 oz
9 quarts
2 gallons
8.5 L
320 oz
10 quarts
2 gallons
9.5 L
11 quarts
2 gallons
10.5 L
12 quarts
3 gallons
11.36 L
4 gallons
15 L
5 gallons
18.75 L
6 gallons
22.5 L
CONVERSION TABLES
temperature
To convert from Fahrenheit:
F 32 5 / 9
TEMPERATURES
FREEZING
32
40
100
38
105
40
110
43
115
46
120
49
125
52
130
55
135
58
140
60
145
63
150
65
160
70
165
73
170
75
175
80
180
82
185
85
190
88
195
90
200
95
339
temperature (continued)
TEMPERATURES
BOILING
212
100
220
105
225
107
SYRUP
230
234
110
112
FUDGE
SOFT BALL
234
238
240
112
114
115
CARAMEL
FIRM BALL
244
248
118
120
DIVINITY
HARD BALL
250
260
266
121
125
130
BUTTERSCOTCH
SOFT CRACK
270
275
290
132
135
143
BRITTLE
HARD CRACK
300
310
150
155
BARLEY SUGAR
(SUGAR MELTS CLEAR)
320
160
324
162
325
165
330
166
335
168
338
170
340
171
350
175
360
180
CARAMEL (MELTED
SUGAR TURNS BROWN)
340
CONVERSION TABLES
TEMPERATURES
365
182
370
185
375
190
380
195
390
200
400
205
425
220
450
230
475
245
500
260
575
275
600
315
341
table of nal/resting temps

FRESH BEEF, VEAL, AND LAMB
Rare
135F / 58C
Medium rare
145F / 63C
Medium
160F/70C
Well done
170F/75C
interior appearance shiny
meat opaque throughout
FRESH PORK
Medium
160F/70C
slight give, juices with faint blush
Well done
170F/75C
slight give, juices clear
Fresh ham
160F/71C
see pork
Precooked (to reheat)
140F/60C
meat already fully cooked
Whole birds (chicken, turkey, duck, goose)
180F/82C
leg easy to move in socket, juices with only

blush
Poultry breasts
170F/75C
meat opaque, rm throughout
Poultry thighs, legs, wings
180F/82C
meat releases from bone
Stufng (cooked alone or in bird)
165F/74C
HAM
POULTRY
GROUND MEAT AND MEAT MIXTURES
Turkey, chicken
165F/74C
opaque throughout, juices clear
Beef, veal, lamb, pork
160F/71C
opaque, may have blush of red, juices

opaque, no red some (lean white)
145F/63C or until
opaque
still moist, separates easily into segments
SEAFOOD
Fish
Shrimp, lobster, crab
shells turn red, esh becomes pearly

opaque
Scallops
turn milky white or opaque and rm
Clams, mussels, oysters
shells open
342
CONVERSION TABLES
sodium content of commonly used salts
Kosher
Salts
Sea
Salts
Table
Salt
BRAND
TEASPOON
MEASUREMENT
WEIGHT
MEASUREMENT
MILLIGRAMS OF
SODIUM
INGREDIENTS
Diamond
Crystal
teaspoon
.7 grams
280 mg
Salt
Morton
teaspoon
1.2 grams
480 mg
Salt, yellow prussiate of

soda (a water-soluble,
anti-caking agent)
North American
Salt Company
teaspoon
1.2 grams
480 mg
Salt
Lima French
Atlantic
teaspoon
1 gram
330 mg
Salt
La Baleine (ne
crystals)
teaspoon
1.5 grams
580 mg
Sea salt, magnesium

oxide (an anti-caking
agent)
Morton table
salt
teaspoon
1.5 grams
590 mg
Salt, calcium silicate

(dextrose and potassium
iodide are also added to
Morton iodized salt)
343
glossary
a
A substance having a sour or sharp avor. A substances degree of acidity is
measured on the pH scale; acids have a pH of less than 7. Most foods are somewhat acidic. Foods generally referred to as acids include citrus juice, vinegar, and
wine. See also alkali.
ACID:
AEROBIC BACTERIA:
Bacteria that require the presence of oxygen to function.
AIR-DRYING: Exposing meats and sausages to proper temperature and humidity

conditions to change both avor and texture for consumption or further processing.
Times and temperatures will vary depending on the type of meat or sausage.
The white of an egg; also the major protein in egg whites (also spelled
albumin); used in dry form in some cold food preparations.
ALBUMEN:
ALKALI: A substance that tests at higher than 7 on the pH scale. Alkalis are sometimes described as having a slightly soapy avor. Olives and baking soda are some
of the few alkaline foods. See also acid.
Vegetables, potatoes, or other items cut into pieces the size and shape
of matchsticks; 8 in by 8 in by 1 to 2 in/3 by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm is the standard
measure for the cut.
ALLUMETTE:
ANAEROBIC BACTERIA:
Bacteria that do not require oxygen to function.
A spicy pork sausage that is French in origin but now is more often
associated with Cajun cooking. There are hundreds of variations of this regional
specialty.
ANDOUILLE:
ASPIC: A clear jelly made from claried stock (or occasionally from fruit or vegetable juices) thickened with gelatin. Used to coat foods, or cubed and used as a
garnish.
Otherwise known as vitamin C and its conjugate salt, sodium

ascorbate, it acts as an antioxidant, by which it prevents the oxidation of fats and
proteins and, in turn, prevents spoiling.
ASCORBIC ACID:
b
BACTERIA: Microscopic organisms. Some have benecial properties, while others
can cause food-borne illnesses when contaminated foods are ingested.
To cover an item with thin slices, sheets, or strips of fat, such as bacon or
fatback, to baste it during roasting. The fat is usually tied on with butchers twine.
BARD:
344
GLOSSARY
To moisten food during cooking with pan drippings, sauce, or other liquid.
Basting prevents food from drying out, improves color, and adds avor.
BASTE:
BINDER: An ingredient or appareil used to thicken a sauce or hold together a mixture of ingredients.
To cook an item briey in boiling water or hot fat before nishing or storing it. This sets the color and can make the skin easier to remove.
BLANCH:
Also called black pudding or blood pudding, a sausage where the

main ingredient is liquid blood.
BLOOD SAUSAGE:
BLOOM: To soften gelatin in lukewarm liquid before use. Also, to allow casing on
smoked sausage to darken at room temperature after smoking.
BOUQUET GARNI(FR.): A small bundle of herbs tied with string that is used to avor
stocks, braises, and other preparations. Usually contains bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and
possibly other aromatics, such as leek and celery stalk.
BRINE PUMP: Tool used for injecting a brine into meat for a more uniform distribution. A brine pump consists of a plunger, cylinder, strainer, hose, and needle. Brine
pumps come in different volume-size pieces.
Also called a triple knot. Used to tie beef round, middle, and bung
casings. A piece of casing is caught between the rst two knots, and a third knot is
used to lock the previous knots in place. A length of string is often left at the end for
hanging.
BUBBLE KNOT:
Sausage that is not contained in a casing. Sausages commonly

found in bulk include breakfast sausage and Italian sausages meant to be used in
pizzas or other dishes. Generally, only fresh sausage is packaged bulk.
BULK SAUSAGE:
Beef appendix, typically used for larger sausages such as bologna

and mortadella. Generally, 2 to 2 ft/61 to 76 cm long with a diameter of about
4 to 6 in/10 to 15 cm, a beef bung can hold from 10 to 20 lb/4.54 to 9.07 kg of
sausage.
(BEEF) BUNG CAP:
c
CARAMELIZATION: The process of browning sugar in the presence of heat. The
temperature range in which sugar begins to caramelize is approximately 320 to
360F/160 to 182C.
A synthetic or natural membrane (usually pig, beef, or sheep intestines)

used to enclose sausage forcemeat.
CASING:
CAUL FAT: A fatty membrane from a pig or sheep that lines the stomach and resembles ne netting; used to bard roasts and pts and to encase sausage forcemeat.
CELLULOSE:
A complex carbohydrate; the main structural component of plant cells.
345
CHARCUTERIE (FR.): The preparation of pork and other meat items, such as hams,
terrines, sausages, pts, and other forcemeats that are usually preserved in some
manner, such as smoking, brining, and curing.
Literally, hot-cold. A sauce that is prepared hot but served

cold as part of a buffet display, usually as a decorative coating for meats, poultry, or
seafood; classically made from bchamel, cream, or aspic.
CHAUD-FROID (FR.):
CHIPOLATA: A small, spicy sausage usually made from pork or veal and stuffed into a
sheep casing.
CHITTERLINGS:
Hog middle intestines.
Butter from which the milk solids and water have been removed,
leaving pure butterfat. Has a higher smoking point than whole butter but less butter
avor. Also known as ghee.
CLARIFIED BUTTER:
COAGULATION: The curdling or clumping of protein usually due to the application

of heat or acid.
COLD SMOKING:
Used to give smoked avor to products without cooking them
A brous protein found in the connective tissue of animals that is used

to make sausage casings as well as glue and gelatin. Breaks down into gelatin when
cooked in a moist environment for an extended period of time.
COLLAGEN:
COLLAGEN CASING: Casings made from collagen that is usually obtained from
animal hides. Collagen casings are easy to use and store and have the advantage of
being uniform and consistent.
COUNTRY-STYLE: A forcemeat that is coarse in texture, usually made from pork, pork
fat, liver, and various garnishes.
CROSS CONTAMINATION: The transference of disease-causing elements from one
source to another through physical contact.
CURE:
To preserve a food by salting. Also, the ingredients used to cure an item.
A mixture of 94 percent table salt (sodium chloride) and 6 percent sodium nitrite used to preserve meats. Also known as tinted curing mixture, or TCM.
Curing salt is distinguished by its pink color.
CURING SALT:
A mixture of spices used primarily in Indian cuisine; may include turmeric,

coriander, cumin, cayenne or other chiles, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fennel,
fenugreek, ginger, and garlic. Also, a dish seasoned with curry.
CURRY:
d
A combination of salts and spices used usually before smoking to process
meats and forcemeats.
DRY CURE:
346
GLOSSARY
e
A mixture of two or more liquids, one of which is a fat or oil and the
other of which is water-based, so that tiny globules of one are suspended in the
other. This may involve the use of stabilizers, such as egg or mustard. Emulsions
may be temporary, permanent, or semipermanent.
EMULSION:
The weight of an item after trimming and preparation (as opposed to the purchased weight, or AP).
EP/EDIBLE PORTION:
Stereoisomers of ascorbic acid and

sodium ascorbate. These are more commonly used than ascorbic acid.
ERYTHORBIC ACID AND SODIUM ERYTHORBATE:
f
FACULTATIVE BACTERIA:
FARCE:
Bacteria that can survive both with and without oxygen.
Forcemeat or stufng (farci means stuffed).
One of the basic nutrients used by the body to provide energy. Fats also provide avor in food and give a feeling of fullness.
FAT:
The breakdown of carbohydrates into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, usually through the action of yeast on sugar.
FERMENTATION:
FERMENTO: A commonly used brand of dairy-based fermentation product for semidry fermented sausages, used to lower pH and give a tangy avor.
A mixture of fresh herbs, usually equal parts by volume of parsley,

chervil, tarragon, and chives.
FINES HERBES:
FOIE GRAS:
The fattened liver of a force-fed duck or goose.
FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by the consumption of an adulterated food product. For a food-borne illness outbreak to be considered ofcial,
it must involve two or more people who have eaten the same food and it must be
conrmed by health ofcials.
A mixture of chopped or ground meat or seafood and other ingredients used for pt, sausages, and other preparations.
FORCEMEAT:
g
GARDE MANGER: Cold kitchen chef or station; the position responsible for cold food
preparations, including pts.
GARNISH:
An edible decoration or accompaniment to a dish.
A protein-based substance found in animal bones and connective tissue.

When dissolved in hot liquid and then cooled, it can be used as a thickener and
stabilizer.
GELATIN:
347
GELATINIZATION: A phase in the process of thickening a liquid with starch in which

starch molecules swell to form a network that traps water molecules.
GRATIN (FR.): A forcemeat in which some portion of the dominant meat is seared
and cooled before grinding
GRAVLAX: Raw salmon cured with salt, sugar, and fresh dill. A regional dish of
Scandinavian origin.
A machine used to grind meat, ranging from small hand-operated models

to large-capacity motor-driven models. Meat or other foods are fed through a hopper into the grinder where the worm or auger pushes them into a blade. The blade
cuts and forces the item through different-size grinder plates. Care should be taken
to keep the machine as clean as possible to lessen the chances of cross contamination when using.
GRINDER:
Used to determine the texture of the ground meat, plates come in

varying sizes, from as small as 8 in/3 mm for ne-textured ground meat to as large
as 8 in/9 mm, used mostly to create garnishes for emulsion sausages.
GRINDER PLATES:
Literally, large piece. The main part of a pt or terrine that

is left unsliced and serves as a focal point for a platter or other display.
GROSSE PICE (FR.):
h
Hanging sticks are stainless metal sticks that are used for smoking and drying sausages. Hanging sticks may be used to suspend other items in the
smoker as well.
HANGING STICKS:
A jellied meat product typically made from diced boiled pork head
meat held together by the natural gelatin contained in the reduced stock left over
from boiling the head. Garnished with pickles, pimientos, and parsley and avored
with vinegar.
HEAD CHEESE:
HOCK: The lowest part of an animals leg, could be considered the ankle, usually for
pork (i.e., ham hock).
HOG CASINGS: Casings are made from the small and middle hog intestine (as well
as the beef bung). Used for countless sausages, hog casings range in diameter size
from 1 to 1 in/32 to 35 mm (used for bratwurst and Italian sausage) to 1 to
1 in/38 to 42 mm (used for Polish sausage and pepperoni). The type of hog casing used will depend on the intended application.
HOT SMOKING: A technique used when a fully cooked smoked item is desired. Both
cured and uncured items can be hot smoked. Smoking temperature and time will
depend on the product.
HYGIENE: Conditions and practices followed to maintain health, including sanitation
and personal cleanliness.
348
GLOSSARY
HYDROMETER AND HYDROMETER JAR (SALIMETER):
The hydrometer is an item that
measures the density of a liquid.
i
INFUSION: Steeping an aromatic or other item in liquid to extract its avor. Also, the
liquid resulting from this process.
INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER: A thermometer used to measure the internal temperature of foods. The stem is inserted in the food, producing an instant temperature
readout.
j
JUS (FR.):
Juice. Jus de viande is meat juice. Meat served au jus is served with its own
juice.
k
KOSHER:
Prepared in accordance with Jewish dietary laws.
Pure, rened rock salt often preferred for pickling because it does
not contain magnesium carbonate and thus it does not cloud brine solutions. (Also
known as coarse salt or pickling salt.)
KOSHER SALT:
l
Rendered pork fat used for pastry and frying. Also the process of inserting
strips of fat or seasonings into meat before roasting or braising to add avor and
succulence.
LARD:
LARDON (FR.):
A strip of pork fat, used for larding; may be seasoned.
Particular segments of sausage created when a lled casing is twisted or tied

off at intervals.
LINKS:
Also known as ring-tied sausages; kielbasa is an example of these

longer sausages. Also refers to sausage made in beef round casings.
LOOPED SAUSAGE:
m
A complex browning reaction that results in the distinctive
avor and color of foods that do not contain much sugar, including roasted meats.
The reaction, which involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named after the
French scientist who rst discovered it. There are low-temperature and high-temperature Maillard reactions; high temperature starts at 310F/154C.
MAILLARD REACTION:
A slicing device of stainless steel with carbon-steel blades. The blades

may be adjusted to cut items into various cuts and thicknesses.
MANDOLINE:
349
The intramuscular fat found in meat that makes the meat tender and
juicy when cooked.
MARBLING:
MESOPHILIC: A term used to describe bacteria that thrive within the middle-range
temperaturesbetween 60F and 100F/16C to 43C.
MISE EN PLACE: Literally, put in place. The preparation and assembly of ingredients, pans, utensils, and plates or serving pieces needed for a particular dish or
service period.
MPR:
Moisture to protein ratio.
o
OFFAL: Variety meats including head meat, tail, and feet as well as organs such as
brains, heart, kidneys, lights (or lungs), sweetbreads, tripe, and tongue.
ORGAN MEAT:
Meat from an organ, rather than the muscle tissue, of an animal.
p
PANADA: An appareil based on starch (such as our or crumbs) moistened with a
liquid; used as a binder.
PARCHMENT: Heat-resistant paper used to line baking pans, cook items en papillote,
construct pastry cones, and cover items during shallow poaching.
PARCOOK: To partially cook an item before storing or nishing by another method;
may be the same as blanching.
PTE (FR.):
Pastry or noodle dough.
A rich forcemeat of meat, game, poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables,

baked in pastry or in a mold or dish.
PT (FR.):
PT DE CAMPAGNE:
PTE EN CROTE:
Country-style pt, with a coarse texture.
Pt baked in a pastry crust.
A sticky skin that forms on the outside of produce, salmon, sausage, or

meats through air drying and helps smoke particles adhere to the food, resulting in
a better, more evenly smoked product.
PELLICLE:
PH SCALE: A scale with values from 0 to 14 representing degree of acidity. A measurement of 7 is neutral, 0 is most acidic, and 14 is most alkaline. Chemically, pH
measures the concentration/activity of the element hydrogen.
A mixture of herbs and spices used to season pickles; often includes

dill seed, coriander seed, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and bay leaves.
PICKLING SPICE:
PINC (FR.):
350
To caramelize an item by sauting; usually refers to a tomato product.
GLOSSARY
A dry-cured ham. True proscuitto comes from Parma, Italy, although

variations can be found throughout the world.
PROSCUITTO:
q
A light, poached dumpling based on a forcemeat (usually chicken,
veal, seafood, or game) bound with eggs that is typically shaped into an oval.
QUENELLE (FR.):
r
REDUCE: To
decrease the volume of a liquid by simmering or boiling; used to provide a thicker consistency and/or concentrated avors and color.
REDUCTION:
The product that results when a liquid is reduced.
To plunge an item into, or run under, cold water after blanching to prevent further cooking. Also referred to as shocking.
REFRESH:
RENDER:
To melt fat and clarify the drippings for use in sauting or pan frying.
s
SACHET DPICES: Literally, bag of spices. Aromatic ingredients, encased in
cheesecloth that are used to avor stocks and other liquids. A standard sachet contains parsley stems, cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, a bay leaf, and sometimes
garlic.
SAL (FR.):
Salted or pickled.
SALT COD: Codsh
that has been salted and dried to preserve it. Also referred to as
baccal or bacalao.
Potassium nitrate. Formerly used to preserve meat. It is a component

of curing salt; it gives certain cured meats their characteristic pink color. Not used
commercially since 1975 because its residual amounts are not consistent.
SALTPETER:
SANITATION: The practice of preparation and distribution of food in a clean environment by healthy food workers.
SANITIZE:
To kill pathogenic organisms by chemicals and/or moist heat.
SCALD: To heat a liquid, usually milk or cream, to just below the boiling point. May
also refer to blanching fruits and vegetables.
SCORE:
To cut the surface of an item at regular intervals to allow it to cook or cure
evenly.
SEA SALT: Salt produced by evaporating sea water. Available as rened or unrened,
crystallized or ground. Also called sel gris, French for gray salt.
SILVERSKIN:
The tough, connective tissue that surrounds certain muscles.
351
Starch (our, cornstarch, or arrowroot) dispersed in cold liquid to prevent it

from forming lumps when added to hot liquid as a thickener.
SLURRY:
A fault in sausages; if sausage is processed at too high a temperature, fat

will soften and become smeared throughout the sausage. Smeared fat has a tendency to leak out of the sausage and leave it dry.
SMEARING:
SMOKE ROASTING: Roasting over wood or chips in an oven to add a smoky avor. A
method for roasting foods in which items are placed on a rack in a pan containing
wood chips that smolder and emit smoke when the pan is placed on the range top
or in the oven.
SMOKING: Any of several methods for preserving and avoring foods by exposing
them to smoke. Methods include cold smoking (in which smoked items are not fully
cooked), hot smoking (in which the items are cooked), and smoke roasting.
SMOKING POINT:
The temperature at which a fat begins to smoke when heated.
An alkaline metal element necessary in small quantities for human nutrition; one of the components of most salts used in cooking.
SODIUM:
SODIUM NITRATE: Used in curing meat products that are not going to be heated by
cooking, smoking, or canning.
STRAIGHT FORCEMEAT: A forcemeat combining pork and pork fat with another meat,
made by grinding the mixture together.
SWEETBREADS: The thymus glands of young animals, usually calves but possibly
lambs. Usually sold in pairs of lobes.
t
Rened, granulated rock salt. May be fortied with iodine and treated
with magnesium carbonate to prevent clumping.
TABLE SALT:
TCM/TINTED CURING MIX:
See Curing salt.
To heat gently and gradually. May refer to the process of incorporating

hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise its temperature. May also refer to the
proper method for melting chocolate.
TEMPER:
TENDERLOIN: A cut of tender expensive meat from the loin or hind quarter, usually
beef or pork.
TERRINE : A loaf of forcemeat, similar to a pt but cooked in a covered mold in a
bain-marie. Also, the mold used to cook such items, usually a loaf shape made of
ceramic.
THERMOPHILIC: Heat-loving; describes bacteria that thrive within the temperature
range of 110F to 171F/43C to 77C.
352
GLOSSARY
TOMALLEY:
Lobster liver, which is olive green in color and turns red when cooked or
heated.
TOTAL UTILIZATION: The principle advocating the use of as much of a product as
possible to reduce waste and increase prots.
A spiral-shaped parasitic worm that invades the intestines

and muscle tissue; transmitted primarily through infected pork that has not been
cooked sufciently.
TRICHINELLA SPIRALIS:
TRICHINOSIS:
The disease transmitted by Trichinella spiralis.
TRIPE: The edible stomach lining of a cow or other ruminant. Honeycomb tripe
comes from the second stomach and has a honeycomb-like texture.
TRUSS: To tie up meat or poultry with string before cooking it to give it a compact
shape for more even cooking and better appearance.
v
VARIETY MEAT:
Meat from a part of an animal other than the muscle; for example,
organs.
VENISON:
Originally meat from large game animals; now specically refers to deer
meat.
A machine similar to a blender that has rotating
blades used to grind, whip, emulsify, or blend foods.
VERTICAL CHOPPING MACHINE (VCM):
VINAIGRETTE (FR.): A cold sauce of oil and vinegar, usually with various avorings;
it is a temporary emulsion sauce. The standard proportion is three parts oil to one
part vinegar.
w
WHITE MIREPOIX: Mirepoix that does not include carrots and may include chopped
mushrooms or mushroom trimmings and parsnips; used for pale or white sauces
and stocks.
y
YEAST: Microscopic
fungus whose metabolic processes are responsible for fermentation; used for leavening bread and in making cheese, beer, and wine.
YOGURT:
Milk cultured with bacteria to give it a slightly thick consistency and sour avor.
z
ZEST: The thin, brightly colored outer part of citrus rind. It contains volatile oils,
making it ideal for use as a avoring.
353
subject index
Page numbers in italics indicate
photographs or illustrations.
Acetic acid, 69, 127

Acid hydrolysis, 26
Acidity, 1011, 59, 69, 73, 225.
See also pH
Acids
ascorbic (See Ascorbic acid)
citric, 29, 30, 31, 32
erythorbic, 30, 31, 75, 211
lactic (See Lactic acid)
ortophosphoric, 33
produced by smoke, 127
pyrophosphoric, 33
role in marinades, 83, 84, 85
Actin, 42, 46
Additives, 2833, 73, 20911
Agar, 285
Age of animal, 43, 47
Aging process of meat, 11, 222, 227
Aitchbone, 105
Alcohol
to aid pellicle formation, 129
bound to fatty acids to create fat, 44
bourbon to store trufes, 22
in brines, 80
to eliminate heat from pepper, 18
in forcemeats, 151
See also Wine
Aleoresins, 208
354
SUBJECT INDEX
Alkalinity, 1011, 33. See also pH

Allergens and allergic reactions, 63, 67
Allspice, 22, 28, 208
Anaerobic environment, 56, 61
Andouille, 206, 228
Anise seed, 22, 23, 28
Antioxidants, 29, 30, 31, 32, 127, 209
Appendix. See Bung
Appetizers, coating sauces for, 279
Arrowroot, 278
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
about, 30, 31, 32
to prevent formation of nitrosamines,
29, 75, 211
Aspic, 173, 279, 27980
aw. See Water activity
Back fat cut, 49

Bacon
about, 87
Canadian, 87
to line terrine mold, 150
meat-to-dry cure ratio, 90
meat-to-nitrate/nitrite ratio, 29
and nitrosamines, 75, 211
products which use, 27
woods used for smoking, 90, 92, 93,
137
Bacon comb, 14
Bacteria
benecial, 5657 (See also Lactic acid,
bacterial cultures which produce)

breakdown of nitrates by, 29
color- and avor-forming, 69
in sausage, 5962
in seafood, 51
temperature danger zone, 56, 61,
127, 130
See also specic bacteria
Bactoferm F-LC, 34
Bactoferm T-SPX, 34
Barbecue, 133
Basil, 21, 23, 28, 72
Bavarian loaf, 206, 229
Bay (laurel) leaves, 21, 28, 80, 137
Beef
braised, 28, 173
casings (See under Casings)
corned, 28, 82, 87
cuts, 48
ground, 28
sausage, 19, 27, 28
woods used for smoking, 137, 139,
140, 256, 257
Beet powder, 75
Belly cut, 49
Benzoate, 65
Berbere, 86
Binders
for forcemeats, 149, 150, 151, 151
52, 164, 205
gelatin, 46
hydrocolloids, 76
for pastes, 87
for sauces, 278
for sausages, 20910
sodium caseinate, 30, 32, 209
sodium phosphate, 32
soy protein, soy concentrate, and soy
protein isolate, 33, 210
for terrines, 173
of water for cures or brines, 76
See also Emulsiers
Blades, 2, 3, 7, 7, 8
Bleeding out, 42
Blenders, 15, 86, 285

Blood, 42, 228. See also Hemoglobin
Bockwurst, 228
Bologna
about, 204, 228
casings, 213, 214, 228
emulsication of fat in, 46
garnish used in, 209
Lebanon, 227
spices and herbs used in, 19, 26
Boston butt cut, 49
Bottom sirloin cut, 48
Botulism. See Clostridium botulinum
Bouquet garni, 20
Bratwurst, 27, 206, 212, 225, 228
Braunschweiger, 23, 27, 228
Bread, as binder for forcemeats, 151,
152
Breast cut, 48, 49
Brine
about, 7980
for sh, 114
function of specic ingredients in, 72
measurement of liquid density, 10
for pork and beef, 115, 122, 268
for poultry, 117, 121
for scallops or shrimp, 116
Brining process
about, 14, 72, 79
sh, prior to hot-smoking, 136
gray spots, 8283
procedure, 7982, 136
spoilage, 83, 325
Brisket, 28, 48, 82, 87, 137
Browning, 27, 44
Bucket, skin, 14
Buffer solutions and sachets, 11
Bung
beef, 213, 213, 218, 220, 228, 229
hog, 212, 213, 228, 229
Butt cut, 49
Buttermilk, 83, 85
SUBJECT INDEX
355
Calcium, 42, 51, 85

Calibration, 11, 68
Capacolla, 110, 213
Caraway seed, 22, 28, 208
Carbohydrates, 42, 43, 45
Carbon bonds, 44
Carbonyls, 127
Carcass. See Slaughter
Cardamom, 23, 208
Carotenoids, 50
Cartilage, 52, 67
Casein, 30
Casings
articial, 211, 21317, 217
hardened from improper humidity, 11
hog rings and casing clips to seal,
910, 218
natural, 213
about, 21112
beef bung, 213, 213, 218, 220, 228,
229
beef round, 110
hog bung, 213, 228, 229
inspection, 66
novel-shaped, 217, 217
preparation, 214, 215, 217, 218, 219,
220
release of air by teasing needle, 15,
222, 224
skin, for galantines, 169
storage and transport, 14, 66
substitutions, 268
types, 21117, 212, 217, 22829
Cattle
Appendix. (See Bung, beef)
carcass breakdown and cuts, 48
356
SUBJECT INDEX
hide, collagen in, 214

intestines (See under Casings
CDC. See Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention
Celery juice, 75
Celery seed, 21, 28
Cellulose, 214, 215
Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention (CDC), 60
Cervelat. See Sausages, summer
Ceviche, 84
Charcuterie, ix, 40, 57
Chaud-froid, 279, 280, 281, 282
Cheese, 137, 229, 280, 283
Cheesecloth, 169, 170, 171
Cherries, 153, 175
Chervil, 28
Chicken
brining times, 82
fat, 208
low myoglobin content, 75, 211
smoked, 130, 137
terrine, 172
Chiles, 80
Chili powder, 20
Chimney, 184
Chipolata, 228
Chitterlings, 212, 228
Chives, 23
Chopper, buffalo, 6, 6
Chorizo, 130, 206, 224, 228
Chuck cut, 48, 49
Chutney, 28687
Cilantro, 19
Cinnamon, 28, 137
Citric acid, 29, 30, 31, 32
Clams, 137
Cleanliness
garments, 67
grinding equipment, 2, 7, 56, 67
hands, 56, 67
ice box and ice scoop, 66
pH meter probe, 11
sanitize all surfaces, 56, 59, 136
spice grinder, 86
stainless-steel table, 9, 56
stuffer, 223
Clear plate cut, 49
Clip, casing, 910, 218
Clostridium botulinum
about, 61
in sh, 6465, 136
in avored oils, 61, 284
prevention of growth
by commercial cure mixes, 32, 75,
129, 210
by low pH, 65
by nitrates, 30, 66, 209
by nitrites, 30, 72, 75, 211
by salt, 57
Clostridium perfringens, 58, 6061
Cloth, in casings, 217
Cloves, 21, 23, 28, 80
Coating sauces, 279, 27980, 281, 282
Cobalt-60, 63
Colbasi, 229
Collagen, 43, 52, 66, 214, 217
Collar, of grinder, 7
Colorants, 18, 27, 75, 286
Color of meat
about, 42, 45
effects of Insta Cure, 29, 32, 75, 210
effects of smoke, 127
sh, 50, 53
formation of darker, 42, 45
and level of carbohydrates at
slaughter, 43
role of hemoglobin, 50
role of myoglobin
about, 45, 46
in muscle, 28, 30, 31, 42, 45
and nitric oxide, 28, 30, 31, 7475,
21011
role of sweeteners, 209
stabilizers, 31, 32
Comb, bacon, 14
Compote, 287
Connective tissue, 41, 43, 47, 50, 52.

See also Collagen; Elastin; Stromal
protein
Consomm, 280
Control cuts, 48
Cooling process, 58, 61
Coriander, 19, 23, 26, 208
Coriander seed, 28
Corncobs, 137
Corned beef, 28, 82, 87
Corning process, 77
Cornmeal, 229
Corns (pellets of salt), 77
Cornstarch, 76, 278, 285
Corn syrup, 24, 25, 27, 74
Corn syrup solids, 2526
Cotton, in casings, 215, 217
Coulis, 278
Country-style or campagne. See
Forcemeat, country-style or
campagne
Crab, 137
Cream, as a binder, 150, 151, 151, 160,
164
Creosote, 127, 135
Cross contamination
sh pathogens, 65
and grinding equipment, 2, 7
and refrigeration, 13
and smoking, 136
three Cs of sausage production to
eliminate, 56, 59
Cryovac-packaged foods, 62, 76
Culture. See Starter culture
Cumin, 28, 208
Curing process
about, 72, 77
elimination with Fermento, 34
pickles, 287
premade mixtures (See Insta Cure
No. 1; Insta Cure No. 2; Prague
powder; Tinted Cure Mix)
with salts, 57, 72, 208, 210
sausages, 224
SUBJECT INDEX
357
Curing process (continued)

See also Brining; Dry curing process
Curing tub, 14
Curry paste, 86
Curry powder, 28
Cuts of meat and carcass breakdown,
48, 4849
Cutters, 6, 6, 8, 9, 223

sausage, 22527, 226
Dry curing process
about, 58, 77, 204, 22526
to control trichinae, 63
gravlax-style, 78
procedure, 34, 7779
role of acidity, 69
sausages, 22527
Duck, 133
d e
Dairy products, 83, 85, 280, 283

Dehydrator, 139, 141
Demi-glace, 279, 282
Density of a liquid, measurement, 10
Dextrose, 24, 210
about, 24, 32, 209
to aid in browning, 27
conversions, 74, 209
metabolization by benecial bacteria,
73
relative sweetness, 74
Die/plate assembly, 2, 3, 7, 7, 8, 152
Diet of animal, 44, 50, 51, 87
Diglyceride, 83
Dill, 28
Dill seed, 28
Documentation
smoking procedure for sh, 138
standard operating procedures chart,
67
temperature readings during smoking,
136
written procedure for sanitation of
equipment, 67
Dry-cured meats
common, 87
Insta Cure No. 2 for, 75
358
SUBJECT INDEX
E. coli. See Escherichia coli

Eggs, 150, 151, 151, 205, 27879
Elastin, 43
Emulsication process, 46, 76, 223
Emulsiers
for fat, 30, 31
made creamier with sodium
phosphate, 32
mustard, 23, 278
salt, 32, 223
for vinaigrette and mayonnaise, 83,
27879
See also Binders
Emulsions
for meat
and binding by mustard, 18, 26
chicken-ice-milk powder for
sausage, 205
5/4/3 or 543, 8, 149, 155, 223
for sauces, 27879
Enzymes, 42, 52, 69, 85, 173
Epimysium, 47
Equilibrium relative humidity (ERH),
1213
Equipment
commonly used, 1415
grinders (See Grinding equipment)
importance of cleanliness, 2, 7, 56, 67
juice extractor, 286
maintenance, 68
measurement instruments, 1013
pastry bag, 177, 183
poissonier, 171
resources, 333
for rubs, 86
stufng, 910, 218 (See also Stuffer,
sausage)
ERH. See Equilibrium relative humidity
Erythorbic acid (erythorbate), 30, 31,
75, 211
Escherichia coli, 58, 60
Ethanol, 69
Ethnic foods, 76
Extractions, juice, 28586
Extractor, juice, 286
Fat
ascorbic acid to prevent oxidation, 30
caul, 150, 221, 231
chicken, 208, 246
fatback
about, 150, 164
to line terrine mold, 17778
in sausage, 40, 208, 208
in forcemeats, 150, 151, 155, 164, 223
as a garnish, 209
intramuscular, 47
jowl, 40, 63, 151, 164, 2078, 208
lamb, 208
leaf (kidney), 104, 207
meat-to-fat ratio, 40, 149, 151, 205, 220

percent in lean red meat, 41
percent in muscle, 45
percent in sausage, 164, 207
pork belly to provide, 40
saturated and unsaturated, 4344, 51
in sausage, 40, 2078
separation of globules (See
Emulsication process; Emulsiers)
substitutions, 205, 207
vegetable, 44
Fatty acids, 4344, 51
FDA. See U.S. Food and Drug
Administration
Fennel seed, 20, 23, 27, 28
Fermentation
of carbohydrates, 69, 225
encouraged by dextrose, 24, 32
fatty acids affect temperature of, 44
in sauerkraut production, 325
in sausage production, 225, 227
temperatures, 34
Fermento, 34, 206
Fibril, 41
Fibrous casings, 214, 21516, 217
Fig, 85
Fines herbes, 21
First inrst out system, 67
Fish
blackened, 86
brining and kippering procedure, 79
dry cure times, 79
farmed, 51
n, 5152, 53
gravad, 65
muscle, 47, 50, 52
nutrients, 51
pathogens in, 51, 6465
salmonids, 50 (See also Salmon; Trout)
smoking procedures, 133, 136, 137
See also specic sh
5/4/3 or 543 emulsion, 8, 149, 155,
223
Five-spice powder, 72
SUBJECT INDEX
359
Flank cut, 48
Flavor enhancers
in brine, 81
hydrocolloids, 76
Insta Cure No. 1, 210
rubs and pastes, 86, 87
salt, 32
smoke, 127, 130, 133
Flavor of meat
chemical sources, 44
creation of avor prole, 76
ethnic avor proles, 76
palatability, factors which affect, 47
stability, 31, 44
tang of sausage, 27, 225, 227
Flavors vs. avorings, 208
Flour, 152, 285
Foams, 285
Food processor, 8
Food safety
allergens and allergic reactions, 63, 67
biological hazards (See specic
microorganisms)
chilled equipment and meat
during brining, 79, 80, 83
forcemeat, 164, 167
during grinding, 2, 3, 5, 7
sausage, 208, 220, 221
temperature, 56, 67, 150
cover all items, 56
creosote production and cancer, 135
cross contamination (See Cross
contamination)
do not reuse marinade, 84
importance of proper refrigeration,
13, 56
inspections, 40
nitrites and cancer, 29, 31, 75, 211
parasites, 6263
prevention of microorganisms (See
Microorganisms, prevention of
growth)
seafood, 51, 52, 138
smoking process, 128, 135, 136, 225
360
SUBJECT INDEX
use gloves, 56
wash hands, 56, 67, 136
wood selection for hot-smoking, 135
Food Safety and Inspection Service
(FSIS), 66, 208, 332
Foot cut, 49
Forcemeat
binders, 149, 151, 15152
causes of bad, 150
cooking procedure, 154, 154
country-style or campagne, 149, 155,
156, 158
emulsication in, 46, 223
four basic components, 150
garnishes, 151, 153, 153, 155
gratin-style, 149, 155, 163, 172
healthier, 149, 205
mousseline-style, 149, 150, 155,
16566, 205
preparations and styles, 149, 155
progressive grinding, 152, 152
recipe development, 15455
seafood, 130
straight-style, 149, 155, 16061
Foreign materials in meat, 67, 68
Foreshank cut, 48, 49
Formaldehyde, 127
Frankfurters, hot dogs, and wieners
about, 228
additives used in, 2526, 31
casings, 212, 228
hot-smoking used for, 224
spices and herbs used in, 19, 23, 25
USDA classication, 206
Freezing, 63, 227, 286
Frizzes, 226
Fructose, 43, 73, 74
Fruit
in chutneys, 286
enzymes in, 85
as a garnish, 153, 175
juice (See Juices, fruit)
in oil or vinegar infusions, 284, 285
pickled, 287
pure as an emulsier, 278

in sauces, 280, 283
See also specic fruits
FSIS. See Food Safety and Inspection
Service
Fungi. See Molds; Trufes; Yeasts
Galactose, 74
Galantines, 151, 169
Game meat, 137
Garde manger, ix, 149, 280, 287
Garlic
about, 1920
as an emulsier, 278
in cures or brines, 72, 80
in forcemeats, 151
in jellied and pressed meats, 174
in marinades, 84
in pastes, 87
products which use, 25, 26, 27
in sausage, 208, 225, 227
and sense of taste, 26
used as smoking fuel, 137
Garnish
in forcemeats, 151, 153, 153, 155
inlay or lay-in, 153, 153
in sausage, 209
sealed-in, 281
GDL. See Glucono delta lactone
Gelatin
as an additive, 46, 76
in aspic geles, 279, 27980
formation during sausage production,
216
in jellied meats, 173, 174
in terrines, 173
Gelation process, 46, 76, 173, 280, 285
Geles, 279, 27980, 281, 282
Ginger, 20, 28, 85
Glace de viande, 278
Glaze, 19, 27, 28, 72
Glucono delta lactone (GDL), 31
Glucose, 43, 73
Glycerol, 44, 57
Glycogen, 50
Goose, 171
Gratin. See Forcemeat, gratin-style
Gravlax-style cure, 78
Gray spots, with brining, 8283
Green weight, 226
Grinding equipment
do not overload, 2
meat grinder, 3, 5, 7, 7, 8
safe operation, 2
spice grinder, 15, 86
Grinding process
chilled equipment and meat
about, 2, 3, 5, 7
forcemeat, 164, 167
sausage, 208, 220, 221
temperature, 56, 150
mise en place, 4, 158, 160, 163, 166
mix to distribute fat and lean
components, 3
progressive, 152, 152
safety considerations, 2
Gums, 76
HACCP procedure, 126

Ham
bone-in, 78, 82
SUBJECT INDEX
361
Ham (continued)
boneless, 82
country-cured, 69
dry-cured, 87, 133, 150
in forcemeats, 150, 153
as a garnish, 209
molded, 87
Parma, 87
prosciutto, 87
Smitheld, 87, 133
smoked, 87, 133, 137
spices and herbs used in, 28
Hank, 212, 218
Head cheese, 229, 280
Health department, local, 126
Healthier style of eating
context, ix
forcemeat, 149, 205
frankfurters, 25
omega-3 fatty acids, 51
sausage, 205
seafood, 5051
terrines and pts, 17273, 205
unsaturated fat, 44, 51
use of less salt, 126
Heart, 42, 47
Hemoglobin, 42, 50
Hepatitis A virus, 6465
Herbs. See Spices, herbs, and seasonings
Historical background
brining, 79
charcuterie, ix
dry curing, 77
forcemeats and terrines, 149
galantines, 169
ketchup, 283
salt curing, 74, 219
sauerkraut, 324
sausage, 204
Hock cut, 49
Hog
breeds with good marbling, 204
carcass breakdown and cuts, 48
362
SUBJECT INDEX
casings from, 212, 213, 228, 229

peanuts in diet, 87
Hog ring, 910, 218
Honey, 24, 74, 77, 80
Hot dogs. See Frankfurters, hot dogs,
and wieners
Hot sauce, 84
HRI (hotel, restaurant, and institution)
cuts, 48
Humidity, 11, 1213, 14, 58, 225
Hydrocolloids, 76
Hydrogen and hydrogenation, 11, 44
Hydrometer and hydrometer jar, 10
Ice, 164, 171, 208, 221, 223

Ice box and ice scoop, 66
Infusions, 284, 285
Ingredient list, on label, 67
Injection, 58, 72, 81
Inspections, 40, 6667, 68, 171
Insta Cure No. 1 (Tinted Cure Mix)
about, 29, 32, 75
in sausage, 208, 209, 210
use in cold-smoking, 129
Insta Cure No. 2, 29, 75, 210, 210
Instruments, measurement, 1013
Intestines. See Casings, natural
Iodine, 51
Iron, 41, 45
Irradiation, 63
Isoelectric point, 46
Jaggery, 24, 24
Jasmine, 135, 137
Jellied meats, 17374
Jerky, 58, 139
Jowl
cut, 49
fat, 40, 63, 151, 164, 2078, 208
Juice extractions, 28586
Juices
fruit
to bind pastes, 87
in brine, 80
grape, in sausage, 227
lemon, 31
in marinades, 83, 84, 85
vegetable, 75
Juniper berry, 22
Kalbassi, 229
Kale, 175
Ketchup, 283
Kidneys, 19, 27, 28
Kielbasa and Polish sausage
about, 229
casings, 213, 229
hot-smoking used for, 133
poaching with cold-smoking used for,
224
Kippering, 79
Kitchen safety, 2. See also Food safety
Kiwi, 85
Knife, sausage makers, 224
Knockwurst, 206, 212, 229
Knot, bubble, 220, 222, 224
Kocuria, 69
Kosher, 73
Kramlich, W. E., 14
Labels, 67, 222

Lactic acid
bacterial cultures which produce, 69,
73, 206, 209
tang from, 27, 225, 227
Lactobacillus, 69, 73, 225
Lactones, 44
Lactose, 43, 74
Lamb
cuts, 48
fat, 208
woods used for smoking, 137
Laminates, in casings, 217
Landjger, 229
Lay-in, 153
Leberkse, 206, 229
Lecithin, 285
Leg cut, 48, 49, 105
Lemon, 28, 86, 137, 283
Lemon juice, 31
Lipid oxidation, 44, 127, 210
Lipids, 43. See also Fat
Listeria monocytogenes, 6162, 65
Listeriosis. See Listeria monocytogenes
SUBJECT INDEX
363
Liver
bitterness decreased with sweetener,
32, 209
preparation for foie gras, 171, 172,
187
Liverwurst
about, 27, 229
casings, 213, 229
poaching with cold-smoking used for,
224
spices and herbs used in, 23, 27
Lobster, 137
Loin cut, 48, 49
Lola sausage, 227
Lolita sausage, 227
Lyons sausage, 227, 228
Mace, 18, 23
Magnet, 68
Maillard reaction, 43
Maltose, 74
Maple sugar, 24, 24, 72
Maple syrup, 24, 80
Marbling, 47, 204
Marinades
about, 72, 8384, 85
cognac, for foie gras, 187
common ingredients, 83, 84
dry, 8687
herbs in, 20, 21, 22
Marinating process, 84, 85
Marjoram, 21, 23, 28
Masala, 86
Mayonnaise, 27879
364
SUBJECT INDEX
Meat
about, 4041
chemical composition, 40, 41, 45
cleaning and preparation, 40, 207
color (See Color of meat)
factors which affect quality, 43, 47
forcemeat ratios, 155
foreign materials in, 67, 68
inspection, 6667
jellied and pressed, 17374
juiciness and water retention, 4546
kosher, 73
market forms, 48, 4849
meat-to-fat ratio, 40, 149, 151, 205, 220
meat-to-ice ratio, 221
muscle ber (See Muscle)
percent of body mass, 41
physical characteristics, 4547
structure, 41
texture (See Texture, of meat)
toughness, 43
Melon, honeydew, 85
Memyoglobin, 45
Metal detector, 68
Mettwurst, 212
Micrococcus. See Kocuria
Microorganisms
benecial, 5657, 69, 73
need for control measures, 56, 57
prediction of growth, 13
about, 65
by acidity, 11, 69
by chilling (See Food safety, chilled
equipment and meat)
by drying, 5758, 72, 73
by nitrates/nitrites, 30, 72, 75, 209
by Plum Powder, 205
by salt (See Salt, to control
microorganisms)
by smoke, 127
by sucrose, 24
by white mycelium, 69
temperature danger zone, 56, 61,
127, 130
and water activity, 13, 5758
See also Bacteria; Molds; Parasites;
Viruses; Yeasts
Middles (straight casings)
beef, 213, 213, 228, 229
collagen casing, 215
hog, 212, 228
Milk, nonfat dry, 27, 32, 205, 209, 210
Mint, 28, 86, 137
Mise en place, 4, 158, 160, 163, 166
Miso, 72
Mitochondria, 41, 42
Mixers, 89, 9
Moisture. See Water
Moisture/Protein Ratio (MPR), 58
Molasses, 24, 24, 80
Molds (hollow forms), 148, 149, 174,
229, 271
Molds (microorganisms)
breakdown of nitrates by, 29
on casings, 66, 215, 267
and food safety (See Temperature
danger zone)
in sausage, 63
white mycelium, 69
Monoglyceride, 83
Monosaccharides, 43
Mortadella, 193, 209, 213, 225, 229
Mortar and pestle, 15, 86
Mousseline. See Forcemeat, mousselinestyle
Mouthfeel, 149, 150, 205
MPR. See Moisture/Protein Ratio
Muscle
cardiac, 42, 47
composition, 4244
contraction, 42
sh, 47, 50, 52
myoglobin in (See Color of meat, role
of myoglobin)
organization, 40, 47
percent of total body weight, 41
slow, 50
smooth, 42, 47
structure, 4142
types, 41, 42
Muscle ber, 4142, 47, 50
Muscle sheath, 47
Mushrooms. See Trufes
Mussels, 137
Mustard
about, 18
in sausage, 208
tarragon in, 21
Mustard seed, 23, 28
Mycelium, white, 69
Myocammata, 47, 50
Myobrillar protein, 4142, 45
Myoglobin
breakdown by nitric oxide, 28, 30, 31,
210
and meat color (See Color of meat,
role of myoglobin)
Myosepta, 52
Myosin, 42, 46, 151, 164
Myotomes, 47, 50, 52
Neck cut, 49
Needle, 14. See also Teasing needle
Nicholson, William, 10
Nitrates
decomposition and health effects,
2829, 30, 66
pink colorant added to, 210
prevention of botulism by, 30, 61, 209
SUBJECT INDEX
365
Nitrates (continued)
role in sausage, 66, 209
from vegetable products, 75
See also Potassium nitrate; Sodium
nitrate
Nitric oxide, 28, 30, 31, 74, 210
Nitrites
and cancer, 75, 211
decomposition and health effects,
2829, 30, 31, 66
to develop avor and pink color, 72,
209
function in cures or brines, 72, 7475
pink colorant added to, 210
prevention of botulism by, 61, 72, 75
residual, with use of potassium
nitrate, 210
See also Potassium nitrite; Sodium
nitrite
Nitrogen dioxide, 65
Nitrosamine, 29, 31, 75, 211
Nitrous acid, 30
Nitrous oxide, 285
Norwalk virus, 6465
Nozzle sizes, 8
Nutmeg
about, 18, 23
products which use, 23, 26, 27, 28
in sausage, 208
and sense of taste, 26
Nuts. See Peanuts; Pistachios
Oils
to bind pastes, 87
botulism in, 61, 284
366
SUBJECT INDEX
avored, 21, 61, 284, 285

in marinades, 83, 84
in sauces, 27879
volatile, in spices and herbs, 208
Omega-3 fatty acids, 51
Onion
about, 22
in brines, 80
in forcemeats, 151
in pastes, 87
Oregano, 21, 23, 28, 137
Ortophosphoric acid, 33
Osmosis, 73
Overhauling, 77
Oxidation, 30. See also Lipid oxidation
Oxtails, 173
Oxygen, 42, 44, 45, 50, 136
Oxymyoglobin, 45
Packaging
contamination, 57, 59
metal in recycled cardboard, 68
pt de foie gras, 171
sausage, 57, 59
smoked sh, 138
vacuum-packed foods, 62, 138
Palm sugar, 24, 24
Panada, 158, 160, 163
about, 152
cream in, 150
maximum percentage used in
product, 155
Papain, 85
Papaya, 85
Paprika
about, 18, 23
as a colorant, 18, 27
and nitrosamine formation, 75, 211
products which use, 23, 27
in sausage, 208
Parasites, 51, 6263, 208
Parsley, 20, 23, 28
Paste, 87
Pastrami, 87
Pte choux, 152
Pt de foie gras, 17172
Pt en crote, 171, 280
Pts, 151, 17173, 206, 280
Pathogens. See Microorganisms
Peanuts, 87, 133, 135, 137
Pectin, 57
Pediococcus, 69
Peeling agents, for casing, 215
Pellicle
formation, 127, 128, 129, 133, 225
smoke adherence to, 220
Pepper
alcohol to eliminate heat, 18
avoid preground, 86
black, 18, 23, 26, 27
cayenne, 23
red, 18, 26, 27
in sausage, 208
white, 18, 23, 27
Peppercorns, 23, 27, 28, 80, 86
Pepperoni, 20, 22, 58, 206, 226
Perimysium, 47
Pesto, 21
pH
to control Clostridium, 65
decrease by lactic acid bacteria, 69,
206
denition, 11
elevation with alkaline phosphate
salts, 33
marinade, 85
and water retention, 46
See also Acidity; Alkalinity

Phenolic compounds, 127
pH meter, 1011
Phosphates
about, 31, 32
in cures or brines, 76, 81
increase in water retention due to,
31, 45
in lipids, 43
and solubility of protein, 31, 46
See also Sodium acid pyrophosphate;
Sodium phosphate; Sodium
tripolyphosphate
Phospholipids, 43
Pickles, 287
Pickling solution, 72, 123, 287
Pickling spices, 22, 80, 287
Picnic cut, 49
Pigments. See Carotenoids;
Memyoglobin; Myoglobin;
Oxymyoglobin
Pineapple, 85
Piping bag, 224
Pistachios, 153, 175, 180, 209
Plastic
casings, 21617
wrap
for galantine, 169, 170, 171
to line terrine mold, 150, 17778
saran for sausage casing, 213
Plate, of a grinder, 3, 7, 8, 152
maintenance, 7
procedure, 2, 7
Plate, press, 178
Plate cut, 48
Pliers, hog ring, 10, 218
Plum Powder, 205
Poaching liquid, 21, 245, 286
Poaching process, 225
Polish sausage. See Kielbasa and Polish
sausage
Polysaccharides, 43
Polysorbate-80, 83
SUBJECT INDEX
367
Pork
certied
dry uncooked sausages, 267, 268,
269, 271
fermented sausages, 227, 263, 266
labeling, 227
via freezing, 63, 227
cuts, 48
parasites, 59, 6263
woods used for smoking, 137, 253
Pork belly, 40, 78
Pork butt, 82, 87
Pork fatback, 150, 151, 164, 17778,
180
Pork loin, 82
Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)
about, 30, 32, 21011
acceptable maximum level, 66
to preserve meat, 29, 30, 209
Potassium nitrite, 66
Potassium sorbate, 63
Potatoes, 76, 152, 205
Poultry, 130, 133, 137. See also Chicken;
Duck; Turkey
Prague powder, 32, 75, 210. See also
Insta Cure No. 1; Insta Cure No. 2
Preservatives. See Microorganisms,
Pressed meats, 173
Press plate, 178
Primal cuts, 48, 4849
Propylene glycol, 211
Propylparaben, 63
Prosciutto, 87, 150
Proteases, 42, 85
Protein
about, 4243
ascorbic acid to prevent oxidation, 30
coagulated, 130
degradation process and nitrosamine
formation, 29
denatured, 85, 130
during emulsication process, 46
368
SUBJECT INDEX
as food source, 41
during gelation, 46
hydrolyzed, 26
in milk, 30
in mustard, 18
percent in mustard, 18
protein-lined casings, 217
solubilization (extraction), 31, 46,
208, 221
soy, 33, 76, 210
structure, 40, 46, 85
types, 41, 42
Pudding, black, 212
Pumping process for brine, 14, 8081, 82
Pures, 278
Pyrophosphoric acid, 33
Rack cut, 48, 49

Ragot, ix
Rancidity. See Lipid oxidation
Rapp, Henry, 205
Recommended stufng diameter (RSD),
214
Record keeping. See Documentation
Reductions, 278, 285
Refrigeration, 1314, 56, 59. See also
Freezing
Regional cuisine, 204
Regulations
fat, maximum percentage, 164
nitrate, maximum level, 66
nitrite, maximum level, 66, 75, 211
pork cooking standards, 6263, 130
poultry cooking standards, 130
Relative humidity, 11, 58, 225

Relish, 286
Rempah, 86
Resins, 208, 217
Resources, 33233
Rib cut, 48
Rice, 152, 205, 207
Rigor mortis, 42
Rings, hog, 910, 218
Robot Coupe food processor, 8
Rosemary
in cures or brines, 72
decrease in lipid oxidation due to, 44
in marinades, 84
in sausage, 208
Round cut, 48
Rounds (curved casings), 110, 213, 213,
215, 229
RSD. See Recommended stufng
diameter
Rubs, 72, 8687
Saddles, 48, 4849

Safety considerations. See Food safety;
Kitchen safety
Saffron, 28
Sage
about, 20
in marinades, 84
products which use, 20, 23, 27, 28
in sausage, 208
Salami
about, 229
casings, 213, 229
cotto (cooked), 23, 27, 214

Genoa, 227
hard, 206
Italian, 69
production, 224
Salimeter, 10
Salmon, 79, 130, 136, 137
Salmonella enteritidis, 59
Salsa, 28384
Salt, 210
about, 32
alkaline phosphate, 33
as an emulsier, 32, 223
to bind forcemeat, 164
in brines, 7273, 79, 81
concentration used, 32
to control microorganisms
about, 208
Clostridium, 57
in forcemeat, 164
historical background, 204
parasites, 32, 63
Salmonella, 59
corns (pellets), 77
curing, 57, 7273, 77, 208, 210
garlic, 20
harshness decreased with dextrose,
32, 209
increase in lipid oxidation due to, 44
increase in water retention due to,
45, 57
kosher, 73
in pickling solution, 287
smoked, 93
sweetener-to-salt ratio in dry cure, 78
table, 73
types used in cures or brines, 73
unrened, 73
water as dispersing medium, 33
See also specic salts
Saltpeter. See Potassium nitrate
Sanitation, 5469
SUBJECT INDEX
369
Saran, 213. See also Plastic, wrap

Sarcomere, 42
Sarcoplasmic protein, 41, 42
Sarcoplasmic reticulum (sarcolemma), 41
Sauces, 21, 22, 27786
Sauerbraten, 84
Sauerkraut, 69, 287, 324
Sausage production
about, 204
biological hazards, 5865
chemical hazards, 6667
cooling process, 58, 216
dry sausage, 58, 69
emulsied-type sausage, 22324
nishing and storing, 22427
grinding and mixing, 22021
ice box, inspection, 66
ingredient list, 67
labels, 67, 222
maximum fat percentage, 164
nine stages, 67
physical hazards, 6768
preparation of casings, 218, 219, 220
stufng, 219, 221, 222, 224
temperature of work area, 67
three Cs of, 56
Sausages
about, 203, 20711, 22829
aging (See Aging process)
beef, 19, 27, 28
bind-in, 46
blood, 22, 213, 224, 228
breakfast, 23, 206, 224, 228
Cajun, 23
casings for (See Casings)
cocktail or chipolata, 228
cooking temperature, 59, 62
dry, 226
about, 27, 22527
prevention of mold, 63
production, 58
recommended pH level, 11, 69
spices and herbs used in, 27
370
SUBJECT INDEX
European-type, 69
fermented, 227, 263, 266
French garlic, 225, 228
ingredients, 20711
Italian
about, 27, 229
casings, 212, 229
poaching with cold-smoking used
for, 224
Polish (See Kielbasa and Polish
sausage)
pork, 27, 62
seafood, 23
semi-dry, 227
smoked, 19, 21, 26
spices and herbs used in, 19, 20, 21,
22, 23, 26, 27, 208
stufng (See Stufng process)
summer (cervelat)
about, 27, 227, 228
casings, 213, 228
Tuscan, 229
water activity, 58
Savory, summer, 28
Scale, weighing, 10, 37
Scallops, 79
Scrapple, 229
Seafood
cold-smoking used for, 130
dry cure procedure, 79
forcemeat, 130
health effects, 5051
lack of myoglobin, 75, 210
pathogens in raw, 65
safe cooking temperature, 51
sausage, 23
See also Fish; Shellsh
Seasonings. See Spices, herbs, and

seasonings
Seaweed, 137
Set, 213
Shallots, 87, 151
Shank cut, 48
Sheep, 48, 212, 213, 228, 229
Shelf life
of casings, 220
increase
with dry cure, 77
by lowering pH, 13
by lowering water activity, 13, 57, 58
with use of articial casings, 213,
216
with use of whole muscle cuts, 67
and level of carbohydrate at
slaughter, 43
Shellsh
crustaceans, 50, 52
dry cure times, 79
hot-smoking procedure, 133
mollusks, 52
nutrients, 51
safety concerns, 51, 52, 53
See also specic shellsh
Shiga toxin, 60
Shipping and receiving, 68
Shish kebab, 19, 27, 28
Short loin cut, 48
Shoulder cut, 49
Shrimp, 79, 137
Shrinkage prevention, 32, 209
Sides, 48, 4849
Sinew, 40, 207
Sirloin cut, 48
Slaughter
bleeding out, 42
breakdown, 48, 4849
intestinal microbes, 44
levels of carbohydrates at, 43
rigor mortis, 42
scraps and trim, 204
Smell, sense of, 19

Smoke
chemical composition, 126
creation, 136
for sh, 65
avoring agent in frankfurters, 25
liquid, 76
permeability through casing, 214, 220
properties, 12627
smoked salt, 93
Smokehouse or smoker, 131
about, 14, 126
anaerobic conditions in, 56
barbecue or grill, 133
capacity, 125
pit, 133
preparation, 13536
price, 125
stovetop, 133, 134
Smoking process, 12438
about, 12526, 204, 225
cold-smoking
about, 129, 130
prevention of botulism, 62, 65
procedure, 111, 130, 131, 136
damper control, 14, 125
food safety, 135, 136, 138
hot-smoking
about, 130
convection, 133
pan, 133, 134
procedure, 130, 132, 133, 134, 136,
225
roasting, 133
preparation of meat, 127, 128, 129
procedures, 12930, 13132, 133,
134, 136, 225
temperature, 30
types of wood
about, 135
for beef, 137, 139, 140, 256, 257
for duck, 98, 99, 108
for sh, 142
for pork bacon, 90, 92, 93, 137
SUBJECT INDEX
371
Smoking process (continued)

for pork sausage, 253
for poultry, 146
for turkey, 137, 259
water to compensate for moisture loss,
33, 225
Sodium acid pyrophosphate, 31, 33
Sodium ascorbate, 29, 30, 31, 32
Sodium caseinate, 30, 32, 209
Sodium chloride, 29, 73, 74, 75
Sodium citrate, 31
Sodium erythorbate
about, 30, 31, 32, 210
as an antioxidant, 29
concentration used, 31
in frankfurters, 25, 26
in sausage, 210
Sodium iso-ascorbate. See Sodium
erythorbate
Sodium nitrate
about, 30, 74
in Insta Cure products, 75
Sodium nitrite
about, 30, 74
hazards, 66
in Insta Cure products, 75
Sodium phosphate, 210
about, 32, 45, 209
in sausage, 209
Sodium tripolyphosphate, 31, 33
Solubilization of protein, 46, 208, 221
Sopressata, 212, 227
Sorbate, 65
Souse, 229
Soy protein, 33, 76, 209
Soy protein concentrate (SPC), 33, 209
Soy protein isolate (SPI), 33, 209, 210
Soy sauce, 174
372
INDEX
Spareribs, 28, 83, 86

Spare ribs cut, 49
SPC. See Soy protein concentrate
SPI. See Soy protein isolate
Spice grinder, 15
Spice mixes, 3537
Spices, herbs, and seasonings
chart, 23
in chutneys, 286
commonly used, 1820
in cures or brines, 72, 76, 80
dry, used for hot-smoking, 133, 135,
137
avor combinations used in meat
processing, 28
avor components in, 208
in forcemeats, 151
grinding equipment, 15
importance of fresh, 86
of interest, 2022
in pastes, 87
in rubs, 86
in sauces, 280, 283
in sausage, 208
in specic meat products, 2527
spice-lined casings, 217
storage, 66, 75
Spoilage, with brining, 83, 325
Spray head and hose, 1415
Standard operating procedures, chart,
67
Staphylococcus, 69
Staphylococcus aureus, 60
Starches
cornstarch, 76, 278, 285
in cures or brines, 76
panada as (See Panada)
potato, 76, 152
rice, 152
from vegetables, 76
Starter culture
about, 34, 227, 268
lactic acid for tang, 27, 225, 227
SafePro, 267
Stephan cutter, 8, 9, 223
Stereoisomers, 30
Stew, 19, 27, 28
Sticks (hanging rods), 14, 225
Sticks (sausage shape), 31, 58, 139, 212
Stock, 208, 279, 279, 287
Storage
casings, 14, 66
cold (See Refrigeration)
employee training, 68
sh, 50, 53, 65
of food prior to serving, 60, 61
leftovers, 61
newly processed meat, 44, 221
pt de foie gras, 171
pH meter probe, 11
pork, 63
sausage in production, 224, 227
spices, herbs, and seasonings, 66, 75,
211
trufes, 22
Storage area, 68
Straight-style. See Forcemeat, straightstyle
Stromal protein, 43
Stuffer, sausage
about, 9
and casings, 216, 219, 22324
components, 8, 10
Stufng, 20. See also Forcemeat
Stufng equipment, 910, 218. See also
Stuffer, sausage
Stufng process, 9, 219, 223334
Sturgeon, 137
Subprimal cuts, 48, 4849
Sucrose, 24, 43, 73, 74
Sugar
to bind water, 57
in brine solution, 79
brown, 24, 24, 80
curing, 57, 77, 78

granulated, 24, 24, 209, 210 (See also
Sucrose)
in gravlax-style cure, 78
maple, 24, 24, 72
metabolism by lactic acid bacteria, 69
palm, 24, 24
turbinado, 24, 24
Sultes, 41
Sweetbreads, 19, 27, 28
Sweeteners
about, 24, 2425
in cures or brines, 57, 73, 74, 79
salt-to-sweetener in dry cure, 78
in sausage, 209
See also specic sweeteners
Sweetness, relative, 24, 74
Swordsh, 137
Syrup. See Corn syrup; Corn syrup
solids; Maple syrup
Table, for sausage stufng process, 9,

223
Tamis, 166
Tamper, 2
Tank, slush, 225
Tarragon, fresh, 21, 28
Taste, sense of
about, 19, 19
pepper, alcohol to eliminate heat, 18
relative sweetness, 24, 74
and seasonings, 26, 76
See also Flavor of meat
TCM. See Insta Cure No. 1 (Tinted
Cure Mix)
Tea, 135, 137
INDEX
373
Teasing needle, 15, 222, 224

Temperature danger zone, 56, 61, 127,
130
Tenderizers, 81, 83, 84, 85, 87
Tenderloin cut, 48
Tendon, 42
Terrines
examples, 172
fat for lining, 150
healthier, 17273, 205
molds, 148, 149
Tester, taste, 154, 154, 221, 223
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate, 33
Texture
of casings, 212, 214
of meat
additives which enhance, 30
carbohydrates and rmness, 43
crustaceans and cooking technique,
52
effects of emulsication of fat, 46
and fatty acid composition, 44
forcemeat, 150, 160, 163, 166
mushy, 85, 206
tenderizers, 81, 83, 84, 85, 87
and type of muscle, 47
and water retention, 45
of sauce, 278
Thermocouple, 12, 58
Thermometer, 1112
Thickeners, 30, 285
Thyme, 21, 28, 72, 208
Tinted Cure Mix (TCM), 29, 32, 75,
210. See also Insta Cure No. 1
Tofu, 205
Tongue
in galantines, 180
as a garnish, 153, 209
in loaves, 193
Traiteur, ix
Trichinella spiralis, 59, 6263, 208, 227
374
SUBJECT INDEX
Trichinosis. See Trichinella spiralis

Triglycerides, 43
Tripe, ix, 19, 27, 28
Tripier, ix
Tropomysin, 42
Trout, 79
Trufes, 22, 153, 171, 180
Tub, brine, 14
Tumbler, 15, 72
Turbinado sugar, 24, 24
Turkey, 81, 82, 133, 137, 259
Turmeric, 208
Twine, 222, 224
U.S. Code of Federal Regulations,

6263. See also Regulations
U.S. Department of Agriculture
(USDA)
nitrate/nitrite regulation, 29, 66
saltpeter regulation, 32, 210
sausage classication, 206
web site, 332
See also U.S. Code of Federal
Regulations
U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA), 25, 29
USDA. See U.S. Department of
Agriculture
Vacuum packing, 62
Veal, 19, 27, 28
Vegetables
beet juice, 75, 286
celery juice, 75
in chutneys, 286
pickled, 287
pure as an emulsier, 278
in relishes, 286
in sauces, 280, 283, 284, 285, 286
starches from, 76
terrine, 173, 175
See also specic vegetables
Vibrio cholerae, 6465
Vibrio parahaemolyticus, 6465
Vibrio vulnicus, 6465
Vinaigrettes, 278
Vinegars, 83, 84, 85, 284, 285
Viruses, 51, 57, 6465
Viscose process, 215
Vitamin C. See Ascorbic acid
Water
additives to bind, 57, 76
in brines, 76, 268
contaminated, 64
function in meat products, 33

to lubricate sausage-stufng table, 9,
223
in marinades, 85
Moisture/Protein Ratio, 58
percent lost during curing, 90, 97,
104, 22526
removal from meat
by acidity, 69
by nitrates/nitrites, 28, 30
purge (water cooked out), 31
by salt, 72, 73, 164, 208
by smoking, 125, 130
retention in meat
about, 4546
increase by corn syrup, 25
increase by higher pH, 46
increase by phosphates, 31, 33, 45,
81
increase by salt, 45
increase by starch, 76
water weight regulations, 208
in sausages, 208, 208
for sausages during and after
smoking, 1415
to store pH probe, 11
to store wet-bulb thermometer, 12
vapor pressure, 12
weight of one pint, 155
See also Ice
Water activity (aw), 12, 13, 5758, 65
Water movement meter, 1213
Water Phase Salt (WPS), 65, 136
Waxes, 43
Web sites, 33233
Weisswurt, 23, 229
Wet cure process. See Brining process
Wieners. See Frankfurters, hot dogs, and
wieners
Wine
to bind pastes, 87
in forcemeats, 151
SUBJECT INDEX
375

in sausage production, 208, 227
Wood as fuel. See Smoking process,
types of wood
Wood pulp bers, in casings, 215
Worcestershire sauce, 85
Worm, of grinder, 7
WPS. See Water Phase Salt
x
X-rays, 63
376
SUBJECT INDEX
Yeasts, 29, 76. See also Microorganisms,

temperature danger zone
Yogurt, 69, 73, 85
recipe index
b
a
Page numbers in italic indicate photographs.
Adobo Sauce, 290

Alcohol. See Wine; specic liquors
Allspice, in Blood Sausage, 238, 239
Amish Bologna (variation), 257
Anise seeds, in Spicy Duck Capacolla, 110
Appetizers, Spanish Chorizo, 264, 26566
Apple(s)
and Banana Chutney, 276, 311
and Fennel Salad, 331
and Horseradish Cream, 295
Lady, Pickled, 321
Little Pickled, 320
in Plain Chutney, 309
Sausage, Smoked Turkey and Dried, 249
Applejack-Brandied Cherry Coulis, 288
Applesauce
Breakfast Sausage with, 231, 231
Cinnamon-Rum, 291
Asiago, Chicken Sausage with Mushrooms
and
about, 205
recipe, 246
Asian-Style Rub, 88
Bacon
Dry-Rub Barbecued, 93
Duck Breast, 98
Maple-Cured, 92
recipe, 90, 91
Balsamic Herbal Marinade, 112
Banana, Chutney, Apple and, 276, 311
Barley, in Blood Sausage, 238, 239
Basic Bologna, 25657
Basil
in Balsamic Herbal Marinade, 112
in Italian Sausage with Roasted Peppers,
232, 233
Marinade, 113
in Tuscan Sausage, 240
Bavarian Loaf, 189
Bay leaves
in Cotechino, 27273
in Dry-Cured Pancetta, 94, 95
Beef (meat)
brined, spiced, smoked (See Pastrami)
Daube, Crole, 197
Beef bottom round, Corned Beef (variation),
120
Beef brisket
Corned Beef, 120
Pastrami, 118, 119
Beef eye round, Bresaola, 96
RECIPE INDEX
377
Beef plate
Pastrami (variation), 119
Beef shoulder
Landjger, 271
Leberkse, 189
Wisconsin-Style Smoked Cheddar and
Jalapeo Sausage, 26061
Wisconsin-Style Smoked Wild Rice
Sausage, 262
Beef tongue
Blood Sausage, 238, 239
Bologna (variation), 257
Beef top round
Jerky, 139
Jerky, Dry-Cured, 14041
Beet Sauce, 318
Bierschinken, 188, 193
Black and Green Olive Loaf, 190, 193
Bluesh, Smoked Dry-Cured Fish, 142
Bologna
Amish (variation), 257
Basic, 25657
Ham (variation), 257
Tongue (variation), 257
Brandy, Applejack-Brandied Cherry Coulis,
288
Bratwurst
German, 253
Seasoning Mix
recipe, 37
used in other recipes, 253
Smoked (variation), 253
Breakfast Sausage
with Applesauce, 231, 231
recipe, 230
Bresaola, 96
Brine
for Fish, 114
Maple, for Poultry
recipe, 117
378
RECIPE INDEX
Pork and Beef

recipe, 115
used in other recipes, 188, 198, 200, 201
Poultry, 117
for Scallops or Shrimp
recipe, 116
Buffalo
Jerky (variation), 139
Jerky, Dry-Cured (variation), 141
Buffalo WingStyle Sausages, 244
Butternut Squash, Terrine of Foie Gras and,
172, 18586, 187
Cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 32425

Cajun-Style Lime and Mustard Seed
Dressing
recipe, 292
Calabrese Salami, 267
California Spicy Sopressata, 269
Capacolla
Dry-Cured, 97
Dry-Cured, Spice Mix
recipe, 36
Fully Cooked, 106
Spicy Duck, 110
Caper Marinade, Lemon-, 114
Cheese
Chicken Sausage with Mushrooms and
Asiago
about, 205
recipe, 246
Macaroni and Cheese Loaf, 192, 193
Mascarpone Sauce, 299

Cherry, Coulis, Applejack-Brandied, 288
Chicken (meat), Mousseline-Style Forcemeat,
164, 16566
Chicken, breast
Pt en Crote, 172, 18283, 18384
Sausage with Mushrooms and Asiago
about, 205
recipe, 246
Smoked, and Roasted Fennel Terrine, 172,
19495
Weisswurst, 245
Chicken, liver, Pt de Campagne (variation),
181
Chicken, thigh or leg
in Buffalo WingStyle Sausages, 244
Chilled Eminc of, and Vegetables, 172,
196
in Duck and Foie Gras Sausage, 247
Pt en Crote, 172, 18283, 18384
Sausage with Mushrooms and Asiago
about, 205
recipe, 246
Sausage with Plums and Ginger, 251
Weisswurst, 245
Chicken, whole
cooking and assembly method for
galantines, 169, 17071
Galantine, 180
Smoked Maple-Brined Poultry, 143
Chilled Eminc of Chicken and Vegetables,
172, 196
Chipotle Rub, 89
Chorizo
Dried, 263
Spanish, 264, 26566
Chutney
Apple and Banana, 276, 311
Dried Fruit, 310
Plain, 309
Cinnamon-Rum Applesauce, 291
Coffee-Cured Duck Breast, 99
Cognac, in Terrine of Foie Gras and

Butternut Squash, 172, 18586, 187
Cold Tarragon Sauce, 302
Condiments, 288331. See also specic
condiments
Cont, Duck, 108, 109
Coppa
Spice Mixes
recipe, 37
Sweet or Hot, 107
Coriander seeds, in Duck Breast Prosciutto,
100
Corkys Southwest-Style BBQ Sauce, 312
Corned Beef, 120
Cornish hen, Smoked Maple-Brined Poultry,
143
Corn Salsa, 318
Cotechino, 27273
Coulis
Applejack-Brandied Cherry, 288
Fresh Plum and Horseradish, 289
Country-Style or Campagne Forcemeat, 156,
157, 158
Country-Style Terrine, 181
Cranberry
Green Peppercorn Mayonnaise, 297
Horseradish Cream, 296
Ketchup, Zesty, 276, 315
Crme Frache and Red Onion Dill Sauce,
298
Crole Beef Daube, 197
Cucumbers
in Fresh-Pack Dill Pickles, 276, 319
in Pickle Relish, 276, 304
in Sweet Pickle Chips, 276, 330
Cumberland Sauce
recipe, 301
Curried Peanut Sauce, 300
RECIPE INDEX
379
Dill
in Gravlax, 101, 1023
and Mustard Sauce, 297
Pickles, Fresh-Pack, 276, 319
Sauce, Crme Frache and Red Onion, 298
Dough, Pt
recipe, 174
Dressing
Cajun-Style Lime and Mustard Seed
recipe, 292
Vinaigrette, 293
Dried Chorizo, 263
Dried Fruit Chutney, 310
Dry-cure(d)
Beef Jerky, 14041
Capacolla, 97
Capacolla Spice Mix
recipe, 36
Cotechino, 27273
Fish, Smoked, 142
Genoa Salami, 268
Kabanosy, 270
Oily Fish, Smoked, 144
Pancetta, 94, 95
Spanish Chorizo, 264, 26566
Dry-Rub Barbecued Bacon, 93
Duck, breast
Bacon, 98
Coffee-Cured, 99
Prosciutto, 100
Duck, thigh or leg
Capacolla, Spicy, 110
380
RECIPE INDEX
Cont (Preserved Duck), 108, 109

and Foie Gras Sausage, 247
Sausage with Fresh Sage and Roasted
Garlic, 248
Duck, whole
Cont, Terrine of, 175
Honey-Brined, 121
Terrine with Pistachios, 17677, 17778
e
f
Emulsied Meat Method, 167, 168
Fennel
-Cured Salmon, 111
Oil
recipe, 195
Pure, 331
Roasted, Terrine, Smoked Chicken and,
172, 19495
Salad, Apple and, 331
Fennel seeds, in Duck Breast Prosciutto, 100
Fish
Brine for, 114
Mousseline-Style Forcemeat, 164, 16566
Smoked Dry-Cured, 142
Smoked Dry-Cured Oily, 144
See also Herring; Salmon
Foie gras
Pt de, 179
Sausage, Duck and, 247
Terrine of, and Butternut Squash, 172,
18586, 187
Forcemeat
Country-Style or Campagne, 156, 157,
158
Emulsied Meat Method, 167, 168
Galantines, 169, 17071
Gratin, 16263, 163, 172
Mousseline-Style, 164, 16566
Straight Method, 159, 16061
Four-Spice Mix
recipe, 35
Frankfurters, Turkey, 25859
Fresh Horseradish, 293
Fresh Kielbasa, 235
Fresh-Packed Dill Pickles, 276, 319
Fresh Plum and Horseradish Coulis, 289
Fruit
Dried Fruit Chutney, 310
Plain Chutney, 309
See also specic fruits
Fully Cooked Capacolla, 106
and Walnut Sauce, 303

Genoa Salami, Dry-Cured, 268
German Bratwurst, 253
Gin, Bresaola soaked in, 96
Ginger
Chicken Sausage with Plums and, 251
in Fennel-Cured Salmon, 111
Gram weight vs. volume of ingredient, 37
Gran Mere. See Gratin Forcemeat
Grappa
in California Spicy Sopressata, 269
in Dry-Cured Genoa Salami, 268
in Spicy Duck Capacolla, 110
Gratin Forcemeat, 16263, 163, 172
Gravlax, 101, 1023
Green Chile Salsa, 317
Green Peppercorn Loaf, 191
Guavas, in Tropical Relish, 308
Ham
Bologna (variation), 257
Kabanosy, 270
Kassler Liverwurst, 255
Kielbasa Krakowska, 23637
Head cheese
recipe, 200
Sulze, 201
Tte Presse, 198, 199
Herb; Herbal; Herbed
Horseradish Sauce, 294
Marinade, Balsamic, 112
Marinade, Lemon and, 115
See also specic herbs
Herring, Pickled Swedish, 123
Honey-Brined Duck, 121
Galantine(s)
Chicken, 180
cooking and assembly method, 169,
17071
Garlic
Roasted, Duck Sausage with Fresh Sage
and, 248
h
RECIPE INDEX
381
Horseradish
Coulis, Fresh Plum and, 289
Cream, Apple and, 295
Cream, Cranberry, 296
Fresh, 293
Sauce, Herbed, 294
Sauce, Mustard, 276, 296
Hot dogs. See Frankfurters
Hot Italian Sausage, 234
Kabanosy, 270
Ketchup
Papaya, 314
Peach, 315
Tomato, 313
Zesty Cranberry, 276, 315
Kielbasa
Fresh, 235
Krakowska, 23637
i
j
Ingredient measurement, gram weight vs.

volume, 37
Italian Sausage
Hot, 234
with Roasted Peppers, 232, 233
Lamb, shoulder
and Pine Nut Sausage, 242
Sausage, Spicy, 241
Landjger, 271
Leberkse (Bavarian Loaf), 189
Lemon
-Caper Marinade, 114
in Cumberland Sauce, 301
and Herb Marinade, 115
Lemongrass, in Fennel-Cured Salmon, 111
Lime
and Mustard Seed Dressing, Cajun-Style
recipe, 292
Salsa, Mango, Papaya, Orange, and, 276,
316
Jerky
Beef, 139
Dry-Cured Beef, 14041
Juniper berries
in Bresaola, 96
in Dry-Cured Capacolla, 97
in Sweet or Hot Coppa, 107
382
RECIPE INDEX
Liqueur, licorice or anise, in Basil Marinade,

113
Little Pickled Apples, 320
Liverwurst
Kassler, 255
recipe, 254
Loaf (cooked-meat specialty)
Black and Green Olive, 190, 193
Green Peppercorn, 191
Leberkse, 189
Macaroni and Cheese, 192, 193
Mushrooms
Chicken Sausage with, and Asiago, 205,
246
about, 205
recipe, 246
in Duck and Foie Gras Sausage, 247
Sausage, Veal and, 25253
Mustard
in Dry-Rub Barbecued Bacon, 93
Horseradish Sauce, 276, 296
Sauce, Dill and, 297
Mustard Seed Dressing, Cajun-Style Lime
and
recipe, 292
m n
o
Macaroni and Cheese Loaf, 192, 193
Mango
Relish with Raisins, Sweet, 307
Salsa, Papaya, Orange, and Lime, 276, 316
Maple
Brine for Poultry
recipe, 117
-Cured Bacon, 92
Marinade
Balsamic Herbal, 112
Basil, 113
Lemon and Herb, 115
Lemon-Caper, 114
Shrimp, 116
Mayonnaise, CranberryGreen Peppercorn,
297
Miso, in Asian-Style Rub, 88
Molasses, in Dry-Rub Barbecued Bacon, 93
Morteau Sausage, 243
Mousseline-Style Forcemeat, 164, 16566
Munich Sausage, 245
New England Rhubarb Relish, 305

Nuts. See specic nuts
Oil, Fennel
recipe, 195
Olive Loaf, Black and Green, 190, 193
Onion
Pickled, 276, 322
Red, Crme Frache and, Dill Sauce, 298
Orange
in Cumberland Sauce, 301
RECIPE INDEX
383
Orange (cnntinued)
Marmalade and Jalapeo Sauce, 288
Salsa, Mango, Papaya, and Lime, 276, 316
Pancetta
Dry-Cured, 94, 95
in Spicy Lamb Sausage, 241
Papaya
Ketchup, 314
Salsa, Mango, Orange, and Lime, 276, 316
Paprika
in Dry-Rub Barbecued Bacon, 93
in Fully Cooked Capacolla, 106
in Tandoori Rub, 89
Parsley, in Balsamic Herbal Marinade, 112
Pastrami, 118, 119
Pt
de Campagne (Country-Style Terrine), 181
de Foie Gras (Liver Pt), 179
Dough
recipe, 174
en Crote, Chicken, 172, 18283, 18384
Spice Mix #1
recipe, 35
Spice Mix #2, 36
Peach Ketchup, 315
Peanut Sauce, Curried, 300
Pears
Pickled Seckel, 276, 323
Spiced, 327
Peppercorn(s)
Green, Loaf, 191
Green, Mayonnaise, Cranberry, 297
in Rosemary-Pepper Dry Rub, 88
384
RECIPE INDEX
Peppers, bell
in Papaya Ketchup, 314
Roasted, Italian Sausage with, 232, 233
Peppers, chile
Adobo Sauce, 290
Chipotle Rub, 89
Green Chile Salsa, 317
Orange Marmalade and Jalapeo Sauce,
288
in Plain Chutney, 309
Southwest Green Chile Sausage, 237
Pheasant
Smoked, Sausage with Wild Rice, 250
Pickle(s)
Fresh-Pack Dill, 276, 319
Relish, 276, 304
Spiced Watermelon Rind, 276, 328
Sweet Mixed, Chow Chow, 276, 326
Pickled
Apples, Little, 320
Lady Apples, 321
Red Onion, 276, 322
Seckel Pears, 276, 323
Swedish Herring, 123
Pigs feet
in Head Cheese, 200
Zambone (variation), 273
Pigs head
in Amish Bologna (variation), 257
in Head Cheese, 200
Rolled Pressed, 198, 199
in Sulze Head Cheese, 201
Pine Nut Sausage, Lamb and, 242
Pistachios
Duck Terrine with, 17677, 17778
in Kassler Liverwurst, 255
Plain Chutney, 309
Plum(s)
Chicken Sausage with, and Ginger, 251
Fresh, and Horseradish Coulis, 289
Pork (meat)
Dried Chorizo, 263

Dry-Cured Genoa Salami, 268
Landjger, 271
Morteau Sausage, 243
Sopressata, California Spicy, 269
use certied only, 263, 266, 267, 268, 269,
271
Weisswurst (variation), 245
Pork and Beef Brine
recipe, 115
used in other recipes, 188, 198, 200, 201
Pork belly
Kabanosy, 270
in Smoked Turkey and Dried Apple
Sausage, 249
Sausage, 262
See also Bacon; Pancetta
Pork butt
Breakfast Sausage, 230
Breakfast Sausage with Applesauce, 231, 231
California Spicy Sopressata, 269
Cotechino, 27273
Dried Chorizo, 263
Fresh Kielbasa, 235
Fully Cooked Capacolla, 106
Head Cheese, 200
Hot Italian Sausage, 234
Italian Sausage with Roasted Peppers, 232,
233
Kabanosy, 270
Kielbasa Krakowska, 23637
Liverwurst, 254
Pt de Campagne, 181
Tuscan Sausage, 240
Weisswurst, 245
Sausage, 262
Pork foot (trotter). See Pigs feet
Pork leg, Prosciutto Hudson Valley, 1045, 105
Pork liver
Liverwurst, 254
Pt de Campagne, 181
Pt de Foie Gras, 179
Pork Loin, Soft Brined Roasted, 122
Pork shoulder
Dry-Cured Capacolla, 97
Sweet or Hot Coppa, 107
Pork skin
Cotechino, 27273
Liverwurst, 254
Weisswurst, 245
Pork tongue, Blood Sausage, 238, 239
Poultry
Brine, 117
in Morteau Sausage, 243
Smoked Maple-Brined, 143
See also Duck; Chicken; Cornish hen;
Pheasant; Turkey
Prosciutto
Duck Breast, 100
Hudson Valley, 1045, 105
Rabbit
Pt de Campagne (variation), 181
Raisins, Sweet Mango Relish with, 307
RECIPE INDEX
385
Relish
New England Rhubarb, 305
Pickle, 276, 304
Savory Autumn, 306
Sweet Mango, with Raisins, 307
Tropical, 308
Rhubarb Relish, New England, 305
Rice. See Wild rice
Rolled Pressed Pigs Head, 198, 199
Rosemary-Pepper Dry Rub, 88
Rub
Asian-Style, 88
Dry, Rosemary-Pepper, 88
Tandoori, 89
Rum, Applesauce, Cinnamon-, 291
Sage
Fresh, Duck Sausage with, and Roasted
Garlic, 248
in Smoked Turkey and Dried Apple
Sausage, 249
Salad
Apple and Fennel, 331
Sauerkraut, 326
Salami
Calabrese, 267
Dry-Cured Genoa, 268
Salmon
Fennel-Cured, 111
Gravlax, 101, 1023
Smoked Dry-Cured Fish, 142
Salsa
Corn, 318
Green Chile, 317
Mango, Papaya, Orange, and Lime, 276,
316
386
RECIPE INDEX
Sambuca, in Basil Marinade, 113

Sauce
Adobo, 290
Apple and Horseradish Cream, 295
Beet, 318
Cold Tarragon, 302
Corkys Southwest-Style BBQ , 312
Cranberry Horseradish Cream, 296
Crme Frache and Red Onion Dill, 298
Cumberland
recipe, 301
Curried Peanut, 300
Dill and Mustard, 297
Garlic and Walnut, 303
Herbed Horseradish, 294
Mascarpone, 299
Mustard Horseradish, 276, 296
Orange Marmalade and Jalapeo, 288
See also Salsa
Sauerkraut
recipe, 32425
Salad, 326
Sausage(s)
Blood, 238, 239
Breakfast, 230
Breakfast, with Applesauce, 231, 231
Buffalo WingStyle, 244
Chicken, with Mushrooms and Asiago
about, 205
recipe, 246
Chicken, with Plums and Ginger, 251
Duck, with Fresh Sage and Roasted Garlic,
248
Duck and Foie Gras, 247
Italian, Hot, 234
Italian, with Roasted Peppers, 232, 233
Lamb and Pine Nut, 242
Morteau, 243
Munich, 245
reheating, 246
Smoked Pheasant, with Wild Rice, 250
Smoked Turkey and Dried Apple, 249
Southwest Green Chile, 237
Spicy Lamb, 241

Tuscan, 240
Veal and Mushroom, 25253
Jalapeo, 26061
Wisconsin-Style Smoked Wild Rice, 262
See also specic sausage types
Savory Autumn Relish, 306
Scallops
Brine for, or Shrimp, 116
Smoked Shrimp or, 145
Shellsh. See Scallops; Shrimp
Shrimp
Brine for Scallops or, 116
Marinade, 116
Smoked, or Scallops, 145
Smoked
Bratwurst (variation), 253
Cheddar and Jalapeo Sausage,
Wisconsin-Style, 26061
Chicken and Roasted Fennel Terrine, 172,
19495
Dry-Cured Fish, 142
Dry-Cured Oily Fish, 144
Maple-Brined Poultry, 143
Pheasant Sausage with Wild Rice, 250
Shrimp or Scallops, 145
Turkey and Dried Apple Sausage, 249
Wild Rice Sausage, Wisconsin-Style, 262
Soft Brined Roasted Pork Loin, 122
Southwest Green Chile Sausage, 237
Southwest-Style BBQ Sauce, Corkys, 312
Spiced; Spicy
Duck Capacolla, 110
Lamb Sausage, 241
Pears, 327
Sopressata, California, 269
Watermelon Rind, 276, 328
Spice Mix(es)
Bratwurst Seasoning Mix
recipe, 37
Coppa
recipe, 37
Dry-Cured Capacolla
recipe, 36
Fourrecipe, 35
Pt, #1
recipe, 35
Pt, #2, 36
Straight Method Forcemeat, 159, 16061
Sturgeon, Smoked Dry-Cured Fish, 142
Sulze Head Cheese, 201
Swedish Herring, Pickled, 123
Sweet Mango Relish with Raisins, 307
Sweet Mixed Pickle Chow Chow, 276, 326
Sweet or Hot Coppa, 107
Sweet Pickle Chips, 276, 330
Tandoori Rub, 89
Tarragon Sauce, Cold, 302
Technique, use of gram weight vs. volume of
ingredient, 37
Terrine
Chilled Eminc of Chicken and
Vegetables, 172, 196
Country-Style, 181
Crole Beef Daube, 197
of Duck Cont, 175
of Foie Gras and Butternut Squash, 172,
18586, 187
Smoked Chicken and Roasted Fennel, 172,
19495
Tte Presse, 198, 199
RECIPE INDEX
387
Tte Presse (Rolled Pressed Pigs Head),

198, 199
Tomato
in Corn Salsa, 318
Ketchup, 313
in Peach Ketchup, 315
Tripe
in Blood Sausage, 238, 239
in Liverwurst, 254
Tropical Relish, 308
Trout, Smoked Dry-Cured Fish (variation), 142
Turkey
Frankfurters, 25859
Pt de Campagne (variation), 181
Smoked, and Dried Apple Sausage, 249
Tuscan Sausage, 240
Vanilla bean, in Cotechino, 27273

Veal
in Crole Beef Daube, 197
and Mushroom Sausage, 25253
Vegetables
in Chicken Sausage with Mushrooms and
Asiago
about, 205
recipe, 246
Chilled Eminc of Chicken and, 172, 196
garnish, in Veal and Mushroom Sausage,
25253
Savory Autumn Relish, 306
Sweet Mixed Pickle Chow Chow, 276, 326
See also specic vegetables
Venison
Jerky (variation), 139
388
RECIPE INDEX
Jerky, Dry-Cured (variation), 141

Vermouth
in Calabrese Salami, 267
in Maple Brine for Poultry, 117
Vinaigrette Dressing, 293
Vinegar
in Balsamic Herbal Marinade, 112
in Vinaigrette Dressing, 293
Walnut Sauce, Garlic and, 303

Watermelon Rind, Spiced, 276, 328
Weisswurst (Munich Sausage), 245
Whitesh, Smoked Dry-Cured Fish, 142
Wieners. See Frankfurters
Wild rice
Sausage, Wisconsin-Style Smoked, 262
Smoked Pheasant Sausage with, 250
Wine
in Cotechino, 27273
in Honey-Brined Duck, 121
in Lamb and Pine Nut Sausage, 242
Wisconsin-Style Smoked Wild Rice Sausage,
262
Zambone (variation), 273

Zesty Cranberry Ketchup, 276, 315

The Art of Charcuterie - The Culinary Institute of Ameri

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Art of Charcuterie - The Culinary Institute of Ameri

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Art of Charcuterie - The Culinary Institute of Ameri

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

the art of

The Culinary Institute of America

JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.

This book is printed on acid-free paper.

Dr. Tim Ryan 77

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

I would like to dedicate this book to my parents in

spices, herbs, & seasonings 16

meats, poultry, & seafood 38

curing & brining 70

subject index 354

To maintain safe operation and food safety, use the following

Assemble equipment correctly. Novices often make the mistake of improperly

Before you begin grinding, chill the

Dice the meat and other required

Grind to the desired texture.

Once the meat is properly ground,

Assembling the grinder correctly is

Mise en place for grinding: cubed

MEAT GRINDER ASSEMBLY

Meat Grinder Assembly

PROPER GRINDING PROCEDURE

Chilled meat cubes

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

grinders, cutters, and choppers

grinding plates and knives

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

GRINDER PLATE AND SAUSAGE STUFFER NOZZLE SIZES

Sausage Stuffer Nozzle Sizes

Actual Diameter of Nozzle Opening and Type

STEPHAN CUTTER: GENERAL ASSEMBLY

Control panel detail

stuffers and stufng equipment

MANUAL SAUSAGE STUFFER

You will need hand tools to apply these closures.

relative humidity thermometer

water. The thermometers accuracy is dependent on making sure the thermometer is

measuring water activity (AW)

predicting food spoilage

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

vacuum massage tumblers

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

commonly used spices and herbs

SPICES, HERBS, & SEASONINGS

WHY AND WHERE YOU TASTE

The tongue is divided into four general regions of taste:

As we experience the taste of something, in many instances up to 75 percent of that

other charcuterie seasonings

SPICES, HERBS, & SEASONINGS

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

SPICES, HERBS, & SEASONINGS

herb and spice chart

Whole, ground, oil

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

sugar and other sweeteners

maple syrup and maple sugar

SPICES, HERBS, & SEASONINGS

corn syrup and corn syrup solids

seasonings in specic meat products