Notes On The Troubleshooting and Repair of Television Sets
Notes On The Troubleshooting and Repair of Television Sets
Notes On The Troubleshooting and Repair of Television Sets
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Table of Contents
Preface
Author and Copyright
DISCLAIMER
Introduction
Television at the crossroads
Television receiver fundamentals
TV repair
Repair or replace
TV Receivers 101
Subsystems of a television set
Why projection TVs are not just normal TVs in big boxes
For more information on TV technology
On-line tech-tips databases
Additional TV technology and repair information
CRT Basics
Color CRTs - shadow masks and aperture grills
Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT
TV Placement And Preventive Maintenance
General TV placement considerations
Preventive maintenance
Warning about using a TV as a computer or video game display
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TV Troubleshooting
SAFETY
Safety guidelines
Warning about disconnecting CRT neck board
Troubleshooting tips
Test equipment
Incredibly Handy widgets
Safe discharging of capacitors in TVs and video monitors
Additional information on discharging CRTs
Removing the CRT HV connector
Safe troubleshooting techniques for line powered TVs
The series light bulb trick
Getting inside a TV
Specific considerations before poking around inside a TV or monitor
Dusting out the inside of a TV
Troubleshooting a TV with the mainboard disconnected
TV Adjustments
User picture adjustment
Internal adjustments
Focus adjustment
Adjustment of the internal SCREEN and color controls
Optimal procedure for setting brightness/background and screen adjustments
Color balance adjustment
More on 'Calibrating' TV color
Horizontal position, size, and linearity adjustment
Vertical position, size, and linearity adjustment
Pincushion adjustments
Geometry adjustment
Why is the convergence on my set bad near the edges
CRT purity and convergence problems
CRT purity adjustment
CRT convergence adjustment
Tilted picture
B/W TV size, position, and geometry adjustments
Low Voltage Power Supply Problems
Low voltage power supply fundamentals
Standby power supplies
Typical TV power supply front end
Totally dead set
Intermittently dead set - bad cordset
Power button on set is flakey
TV blows fuse
Fuse blows or TV blows up when sync is disrupted
Internal fuse blew during lightning storm (or elephant hit power pole)
Fuse replaced but TV clicks with power-on but no other action
Power-on tick-tick-tick or click-click-click but no other action
No picture or raster and no sound
Reduced width picture and/or hum bars in picture and/or hum in sound
Excessive B+ from fixed regulator like STR30123/STR30130/STR30135
TV power cycling on and off
Dead TV with periodic tweet-tweet, flub-flub, or low-low voltage
Bypassing the Startup Circuit
Shorted Components
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Preface
Author and Copyright
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DISCLAIMER
Working inside a CRT-based television set, or computer or video monitor can be lethal from
line-connected and high voltage power supplies as well as CRT implosion. Read and follow ALL of the
safety guidelines found in Safety Guidelines for High Voltage and/or Line Powered Equipment and the
section: SAFETY, below. If in doubt about your abilities or experience, leave repair and internal
adjustments to a professional.
We will not be responsible for damage to equipment, your ego, county wide power outages, spontaneously
generated mini (or larger) black holes, planetary disruptions, or personal injury or worse that may result
from the use of this material.
Introduction
Television at the crossroads
Television in substantially its present form has been with us for nearly 50 years. It is a tribute to the
National Television Standards Committee (NTSC) that the color television standards agreed upon in the
early 1950s have performed remarkably well making quite efficient use of valuable radio spectrum space
and the psychovisual characteristics of the human eye-brain system. However, HDTV (High Definition
TV) will supplant and ultimately replace the current standards. We will all come to expect its superior
resolution, freedom from noise and ghosting, and pure CD sound. Yet, the perceived quality of TV
broadcasts and cable will never likely be the major issue with most consumers. Content will continue to be
the biggest problem.
As of June 2009, all analog broadcasting in the USA has been discontinued by law, except for some low
power local transmissions. This (so the justification goes) frees up a large amount of electromagnetic
spectrum for other (more lucrative!) applications, since the Digital TV (DTV) channels occupy less
bandwidth. Low cost DTV converter boxes enabled existing TVs to receive the digital signals so there was
no need to buy new digital TVs, though this did make for one darn good excuse to upgrade to a 60" flat
screen HDTV! :)
There is plenty of information available elsewhere with regard to the pros and cons of the DTV
conversion, the trials and tribulations of people using antennas (as opposed to cable or optical fiber), and
the ultimate benefits, real and perceived. Suffice it to say that when digital reception is good, the picture
and sound are very very good and there is essentially no comparison with the analog system it replaced.
This is true even when a converter box is used with an analog TV in good condition and standard
definition digital is better than the best analog. HDTV with multi-channel sound is simply exquisite.
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However, unlike analog TV, poor reception doesn't result in snow or ghosts, but rather the picture (and
sound) totally drops out or (in the case of the video) freezes or pixilates. For over-the-air reception, the
type of antenna and its orientation becomes much more critical. And even in areas close to the transmitter,
local terrain and obstructions in the line-of-sight like hills and buildings may result in problems.
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other obvious problems. The chance of success is vanishingly small and it's very likely that even with great
care, damage could occur to the panels or circuitry.
TV repair
Unlike VCRs or CD players where any disasters are likely to only affect your pocketbook, TVs can be
dangerous. Read, understand, and follow the set of safety guidelines provided later in this section
whenever working on TVs, monitors, or other similar high voltage equipment.
If you do go inside, beware: line voltage (on large caps) and high voltage (on CRT) for long after the plug
is pulled. There is the added danger of CRT implosion for carelessly dropped tools and often sharp
sheetmetal shields which can injure if you should have a reflex reaction upon touching something you
should not touch. In inside of a TV or monitor is no place for the careless or naive.
Having said that, a basic knowledge of how a TV set works and what can go wrong can be of great value
even if you do not attempt the repair yourself. It will enable you to intelligently deal with the service
technician. You will be more likely to be able to recognize if you are being taken for a ride by a dishonest
or just plain incompetent repair center. For example, a faulty picture tube CANNOT be the cause of a
color television only displaying shows in black-and-white. The majority of consumers probably do not
know even this simple fact. Such a problem is usually due to a bad capacitor or other 10 cent part.
This document will provide you with the knowledge to deal with a large percentage of the problems you
are likely to encounter with your TVs. It will enable you to diagnose problems and in many cases, correct
them as well. With minor exceptions, specific manufacturers and models will not be covered as there are
so many variations that such a treatment would require a huge and very detailed text. Rather, the most
common problems will be addressed and enough basic principles of operation will be provided to enable
you to narrow the problem down and likely determine a course of action for repair. In many cases, you
will be able to do what is required for a fraction of the cost that would be charged by a repair center.
Should you still not be able to find a solution, you will have learned a great deal and be able to ask
appropriate questions and supply relevant information if you decide to post to sci.electronics.repair. It will
also be easier to do further research using a repair text such as the ones listed at the end of this document.
In any case, you will have the satisfaction of knowing you did as much as you could before taking it in for
professional repair. With your new-found knowledge, you will have the upper hand and will not easily be
snowed by a dishonest or incompetent technician.
Repair or replace
If you need to send or take the TV to a service center, the repair could easily exceed half the cost of a new
TV. Service centers may charge up to $50 or more for providing an initial estimate of repair costs but this
will usually be credited toward the total cost of the repair (of course, they may just jack this up to
compensate for their bench time).
TV prices have been dropping almost as fast as PC prices. Therefore, paying such prices for repair just
may not make sense. Except for picture tube problems, most TV faults can be corrected without
expensive parts, however. Keeping a 5 year old TV alive may be well worthwhile as basic TV
performance and important features have not changed in a long time.
If you can do the repairs yourself, the equation changes dramatically as your parts costs will be 1/2 to 1/4
of what a professional will charge and of course your time is free. The educational aspects may also be
appealing. You will learn a lot in the process. Thus, it may make sense to repair that old clunker for your
game room or beach house. (I would suggest the kid's room but most TV watching just rots the brain
anyhow so a broken TV may be more worthwhile educationally than one that works.)
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TV Receivers 101
Subsystems of a television set
A TV set includes the following functional blocks:
1. Low voltage power supply (some may also be part of (2).) Most of the lower voltages used in the
TV may be derived from the horizontal deflection circuits. Sometimes, there is a separate switching
power supply but this would be the exception. Rectifier/filter capacitor/regulator from AC line
provides the B+ to the switching power supply or horizontal deflection system. Degauss operates off
of the line whenever power is turned on (after having been off for a few minutes) to demagnetize
the CRT.
2. Horizontal deflection. These circuits provide the waveforms needed to sweep the electron beam in
the CRT across and back some 15,734 times per second (for NTSC). The horizontal sync pulse from
the sync separator locks the horizontal deflection to the video signal.
3. Vertical deflection. These circuits provide the waveforms needed to sweep the electron beam in the
CRT from top to bottom and back 60 times per second (for NTSC). The vertical sync pulse from the
sync separator locks the vertical deflection to the video signal.
4. CRT high voltage (also part of (2).) A modern color CRT requires up to 30 kV for a crisp bright
picture. Rather than having a totally separate power supply, nearly every TV on the planet derives
the HV (as well as many other voltages) from the horizontal deflection using a special transformer
called a 'flyback' or 'Line OutPut Transformer (LOPT) for those of you on the other side of the lake.
5. Tuner, IF, AGC, video and audio demodulators. Input is the antenna or cable signal and output are
baseband video and audio signals. There is usually someplace inside the TV where line level video
and audio are present but it may not be accessible from the outside of the cabinet unless you paid
for the more expensive model with the A/V option. Very often, the tuner is a shielded metal box
positioned on the bottom right (as viewed from the front) separate from the main circuit board.
Sometimes it is on the main circuit board. The IF section may be in either place.
On older or cheap TVs with a knob tuner, this is usually mounted to the front panel by itself. There
are usually separate boxes for the VHF and UHF tuners.
6. Chroma demodulator. Input is the baseband video signal. Outputs are the individual signals for the
red, green, and blue video to the CRT.
7. Video drivers (RGB). These are almost always located on a little circuit board plugged directly onto
the neck of the CRT. They boost the output of the chroma demodulator to the hundred volts or so
needed to drive the cathodes of the CRT.
8. Sync separator. Input is baseband video. Output is horizontal and vertical sync pulses to control the
deflection circuits.
9. Audio amplifier/output. The line level audio is amplified to drive a set of speakers. If this is a stereo
TV, then these circuits must also perform the stereo demultiplexing.
10. System control. Most modern TVs actually use a microcontroller - a fixed program microcomputer
to perform all user interface and control functions from the front panel and remote control. These
are becoming increasingly sophisticated. However, they do not fail often. Older TVs use a bunch of
knobs and switches and these are prone to wear and dirt.
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Most problems occur in the horizontal deflection and power supply sections. These run at relatively high
power levels and some components run hot. The high voltage section is prone to breakdown and arcing as
a result of hairline cracks, humidity, dirt, etc.
The tuner components are usually quite reliable unless the antenna experiences a lightning strike.
However, it seems that even after 20+ years of solid state TVs, manufacturers still cannot reliably solder
the tuner connectors and shields so that bad solder connections in these areas are common even in new
sets.
Why projection TVs are not just normal TVs in big boxes
In order to achieve the necessary brightness with a large display format, three separate monochrome CRTs
are used with optics to combine the three images properly at the screen. This creates an entire set of
additional problems in design.
(From: Jeroen H. Stessen ([email protected]).)
The average projection TV has about twice as many parts as its direct-view counterpart. Some of the extra
parts are essential for projection because CRT projection tubes require dynamic convergence. The other
extra parts have to do with the fact that a more expensive TV also should have some extra features, like
Dolby ProLogic sound, a satellite tuner and such.
Generally, the electronics are based on a standard chassis that is also used for direct-view CRT television.
Even the deflection circuits require minor adaptations at most. The high-voltage circuit is different
because the EHT, focus and G2 voltages must be distributed over 3 CRTs. So this requires a special
high-voltage part, which also includes an EHT capacitor and bleeder.
There will be 3 CRT panels with video amplifiers. Because of the extremely high brightness, projection
tubes will burn the phosphor screen immediately in fault conditions so a protection circuit is essential.
And last but certainly not least, there is the dynamic convergence panel. The heart is a waveform
generator IC, often of a Japanese brand but nowadays there's also a digital variant by Philips. The
old-fashioned way requires many many potentiometers to program the waveforms. Then there's 5 or 6
convergence amplifiers and a corresponding extra power supply. And usually this is where the single
deflection circuits are distributed to the 3 CRTs. At the same time the deflection currents are sensed for
the protection circuits.
Designing a PTV from a DVTV requires several man-years of work. In the factory, a special corner is
devoted to the assembly. There you'll find specially educated people and the speed of the assembly line is
a lot lower than usual. It requires many more adjustments, e.g. 3 optical and 3 electrical focus adjustments
and then convergence.
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The earliest (Nov 09, 1996) archive seems to be the most complete.
Also see:
NTSC Television Tutorials by Williamson Labs has many diagrams with a bit of text on their site. It
looks like they are really trying to sell stuff including a CDROM but the graphics are worth
checking out.
CRT Basics
Note: Most of the information on TV and monitor CRT construction, operation, interference and other
problems. has been moved to the document: TV and Monitor CRT (Picture Tube) Information. The
following is just a brief introduction with instructions on degaussing.
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phosphor dots. Since the electron beams for the R, G, and B phosphors originate from slightly different
positions (individual electron guns for each) and thus arrive at slightly different angles, only the proper
phosphors are excited when the purity is properly adjusted and the necessary magnetic field free region is
maintained inside the CRT. Note that purity determines that the correct video signal excites the proper
color while convergence determines the geometric alignment of the 3 colors. Both are affected by
magnetic fields. Bad purity results in mottled or incorrect colors. Bad convergence results in color fringing
at edges of characters or graphics.
The shadow mask consists of a thin steel or InVar (a ferrous alloy) with a fine array of holes - one for each
trio of phosphor dots - positioned about 1/2 inch behind the surface of the phosphor screen. With most
CRTs, the phosphors are arranged in triangular formations called triads with each of the color dots at the
apex of the triangle. With many TVs and some monitors, they are arranged as vertical slots with the
phosphors for the 3 colors next to one another.
An aperture grille, used exclusively in Sony Trinitrons (and now their clones as well), replaces the shadow
mask with an array of finely tensioned vertical wires. Along with other characteristics of the aperture
grille approach, this permits a somewhat higher possible brightness to be achieved and is more immune to
other problems like line induced moire and purity changes due to local heating causing distortion of the
shadow mask.
However, there are some disadvantages of the aperture grille design:
weight - a heavy support structure must be provided for the tensioned wires (like a piano frame).
price (proportional to weight).
always a cylindrical screen (this may be considered an advantage depending on your preference.
visible stabilizing wires which may be objectionable or unacceptable for certain applications.
Apparently, there is no known way around the need to keep the fine wires from vibrating or changing
position due to mechanical shock in high resolution tubes and thus all Trinitron monitors require 1, 2, or 3
stabilizing wires (depending on tube size) across the screen which can be see as very fine lines on bright
images. Some people find these wires to be objectionable and for some critical applications, they may be
unacceptable (e.g., medical diagnosis).
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It is unlikely that you could actually affect magnetic media but better safe than sorry. Of the devices
mentioned above, only a bulk eraser or strong permanent magnet are likely to have any effect - and then
only when at extremely close range (direct contact with media container).
All color CRTs include a built-in degaussing coil wrapped around the perimeter of the CRT face. These are
activated each time the CRT is powered up cold by a 3 terminal thermister device or other control
circuitry. This is why it is often suggested that color purity problems may go away "in a few days". It isn't
a matter of time; it's the number of cold power ups that causes it. It takes about 15 minutes of the power
being off for each cool down cycle. These built-in coils with thermal control are never as effective as
external coils.
Note that while the monochrome CRTs used in B/W and projection TVs and mono monitors don't have
anything inside to get magnetized, the chassis or other cabinet parts of the equipment may still need
degaussing. While this isn't likely from normal use or even after being moved or reoriented, a powerful
magnet (like that from a large speaker) could leave iron, steel, or other ferrous parts with enough residual
magnetism to cause a noticeable problem.
See the document: TV and Monitor CRT (Picture Tube) Information for some additional discussion of
degaussing tools, techniques, treatments for severe magnetization from lightning strikes, and cautions.
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Preventive maintenance
Preventive maintenance for a TV is pretty simple - just keep the case clean and free of obstructions. Clean
the screen with a soft cloth just dampened with water and at most, mild detergent. DO NOT use anything
so wet that liquid may seep inside of the set around the edge of the picture tube - you could end up with a
very expensive repair bill when the liquid shorts out the main circuit board lurking just below. If the set
has a protective flat glass faceplate, there is usually an easy way (on newer sets with this type of
protection) of removing it to get at the inner face of the CRT. Clean both the CRT and the protective glass
with a soft damp cloth and dry thoroughly. If you have not cleaned the screen for quite a while, you will
be amazed at the amount of black grime that collects due to the static buildup from the high voltage CRT
supply.
In really dusty situations, periodically vacuuming inside the case and the use of contact cleaner for the
controls might be a good idea but realistically, you will not do this so don't worry about it.
For LCD TVs, LCD computer monitors, and laptop displays, the cleaning is particularly critical. The front
surface of these facing the viewer is generally not made of glass like those in CRT displays, but rather a
plastic layer or film. Thus, any cleaning method that uses harsh chemicals can permanently damage the
screen, with or without an anti-reflection coating. Some glass cleaners, acetone (nail polish remover), and
other strong solvents can attack the plastic very quickly. By the time you realize there is damage, it may
be too late. And, of course, NEVER use anything even mildly abrasive.
A damp cloth with soap or detergent and water is safe, as is generally a damp clost with a solution of 70
percent isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol diluted in the ratio 1:1 with water.
However, it is essential to avoid allowing any liguid to seep inside along the edges as this can short out the
circuitry, especially the high voltage back-light driver,which often located behind the trim at the bottom,
and possibly ruin the display entirely, or at least requiring a major repair.
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the manufacturer will likely NOT cover the cost of repairs. There is probably a disclaimer to this effect in
the warranty.
TV Troubleshooting
SAFETY
TVs and computer or video monitors are among the more dangerous of consumer electronic equipment
when it comes to servicing. (Microwave ovens are probably the most hazardous due to high voltage at
high power.)
There are two areas which have particularly nasty electrical dangers: the non-isolated line power supply
and the CRT high voltage.
Major parts of nearly all modern TVs and many computer monitors are directly connected to the AC line there is no power transformer to provide the essential barrier for safety and to minimize the risk of
equipment damage. In the majority of designs, the live parts of the TV or monitor are limited to the AC
input and line filter, degauss circuit, bridge rectifier and main filter capacitor(s), low voltage (B+)
regulator (if any), horizontal output transistor and primary side of the flyback (LOPT) transformer, and
parts of the startup circuit and standby power supply. The flyback generates most of the other voltages
used in the unit and provides an isolation barrier so that the signal circuits are not line connected and
safer.
Since a bridge rectifier is generally used in the power supply, both directions of the polarized plug result in
dangerous conditions and an isolation transformer really should be used - to protect you, your test
equipment, and the TV, from serious damage. Some TVs do not have any isolation barrier whatsoever - the
entire chassis is live. These are particularly nasty.
The high voltage to the CRT, while 200 times greater than the line input, is not nearly as dangerous for
several reasons. First, it is present in a very limited area of the TV or monitor - from the output of the
flyback to the CRT anode via the fat HV wire and suction cup connector. If you don't need to remove the
mainboard or replace the flyback or CRT, then leave it alone and it should not bite. Furthermore, while the
shock from the HV can be quite painful due to the capacitance of the CRT envelope, it is not nearly as
likely to be lethal since the current available from the line connected power supply is much greater.
Safety guidelines
These guidelines are to protect you from potentially deadly electrical shock hazards as well as the
equipment from accidental damage.
Note that the danger to you is not only in your body providing a conducting path, particularly through
your heart. Any involuntary muscle contractions caused by a shock, while perhaps harmless in
themselves, may cause collateral damage - there are many sharp edges inside this type of equipment as
well as other electrically live parts you may contact accidentally.
The purpose of this set of guidelines is not to frighten you but rather to make you aware of the appropriate
precautions. Repair of TVs, monitors, microwave ovens, and other consumer and industrial equipment can
be both rewarding and economical. Just be sure that it is also safe!
Don't work alone - in the event of an emergency another person's presence may be essential.
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Always keep one hand in your pocket when anywhere around a powered line-connected or high
voltage system.
Wear rubber bottom shoes or sneakers.
Don't wear any jewelry or other articles that could accidentally contact circuitry and conduct
current, or get caught in moving parts.
Set up your work area away from possible grounds that you may accidentally contact.
Know your equipment: TVs and monitors may use parts of the metal chassis as ground return yet
the chassis may be electrically live with respect to the earth ground of the AC line. Microwave
ovens use the chassis as ground return for the high voltage. In addition, do not assume that the
chassis is a suitable ground for your test equipment!
If circuit boards need to be removed from their mountings, put insulating material between the
boards and anything they may short to. Hold them in place with string or electrical tape. Prop them
up with insulation sticks - plastic or wood.
If you need to probe, solder, or otherwise touch circuits with power off, discharge (across) large
power supply filter capacitors with a 2 W or greater resistor of 100 to 500 ohms/V approximate
value (e.g., for a 200 V capacitor, use a 20K to 100K ohm resistor). Monitor while discharging and
verify that there is no residual charge with a suitable voltmeter. In a TV or monitor, if you are
removing the high voltage connection to the CRT (to replace the flyback transformer for example)
first discharge the CRT contact (under the suction cup at the end of the fat HV wire). Use a 1M to
10M ohm 5 W or greater wattage (for its voltage holdoff capability, not power dissipation) resistor
on the end of an insulating stick or the probe of a high voltage meter. Discharge to the metal frame
which is connected to the outside of the CRT.
For TVs and monitors in particular, there is the additional danger of CRT implosion - take care not
to bang the CRT envelope with your tools. An implosion will scatter shards of glass at high velocity
in every direction. There are several tons of force attempting to crush the typical CRT. While
implosion is not really likely even with modest abuse, why take chances? However, the CRT neck is
relatively thin and fragile and breaking it would be very embarrassing and costly. Always wear eye
protection when working around the back side of a CRT.
Connect/disconnect any test leads with the equipment unpowered and unplugged. Use clip leads or
solder temporary wires to reach cramped locations or difficult to access locations.
If you must probe live, put electrical tape over all but the last 1/16" of the test probes to avoid the
possibility of an accidental short which could cause damage to various components. Clip the
reference end of the meter or scope to the appropriate ground return so that you need to only probe
with one hand.
Perform as many tests as possible with power off and the equipment unplugged. For example, the
semiconductors in the power supply section of a TV or monitor can be tested for short circuits with
an ohmmeter.
Use an isolation transformer if there is any chance of contacting line connected circuits. A
Variac(tm) is not an isolation transformer! The use of a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)
protected outlet is a good idea but will not protect you from shock from many points in a line
connected TV or monitor, or the high voltage side of a microwave oven, for example. (Note
however, that, a GFCI may nuisanse trip at power-on or at other random times due to leakage paths
(like your scope probe ground) or the highly capacitive or inductive input characteristics of line
powered equipment.) A fuse or circuit breaker is too slow and insensitive to provide any protection
for you or in many cases, your equipment. However, these devices may save your scope probe
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Troubleshooting tips
Many problems have simple solutions. Don't immediately assume that your problem is some combination
of esoteric complex convoluted failures. For a TV, it may just be a bad connection or blown fuse.
Remember that the problems with the most catastrophic impact on operation like a dead TV usually have
the simplest solutions. The kind of problems we would like to avoid at all costs are the ones that are
intermittent or difficult to reproduce: the occasional interference or a TV that refuses to play 'StarTrek
Voyager'.
If you get stuck, sleep on it. Sometimes, just letting the problem bounce around in your head will lead to a
different more successful approach or solution. Don't work when you are really tired - it is both dangerous
(especially with respect to TVs) and mostly non-productive (or possibly destructive).
Whenever working on precision equipment, make copious notes and diagrams. You will be eternally
grateful when the time comes to reassemble the unit. Most connectors are keyed against incorrect
insertion or interchange of cables, but not always. Apparently identical screws may be of differing lengths
or have slightly different thread types. Little parts may fit in more than one place or orientation. Etc. Etc.
Pill bottles, film canisters, and plastic ice cube trays come in handy for sorting and storing screws and
other small parts after disassembly. This is particularly true if you have repairs on multiple pieces of
equipment under way simultaneously.
Select a work area which is wide open, well lighted, and where dropped parts can be located - not on a
deep pile shag rug. The best location will also be relatively dust free and allow you to suspend your
troubleshooting to eat or sleep or think without having to pile everything into a cardboard box for storage.
Another consideration is ESD - Electro-Static Discharge. Some components (like ICs) in a TV are
vulnerable to ESD. There is no need to go overboard but taking reasonable precautions such as getting
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Test equipment
Don't start with the electronic test equipment, start with some analytical thinking. Your powers of
observation (and a little experience) will make a good start. Your built in senses and that stuff between
your ears represents the most important test equipment you have.
However, some test equipment will be needed:
Multimeter (DMM or VOM) - This is essential for checking of power supply voltages and voltages
on the pins of ICs or other components - service literature like the Sams' Photofacts described
elsewhere in this document include voltage measurements at nearly every circuit tie point for
properly functioning equipment. The multimeter will also be used to check components like
transistors, resistors, and capacitors for correct value and for shorts or opens. You do not need a
fancy instrument. A basic DMM - as long as it is reliable - will suffice for most troubleshooting. If
you want one that will last for many years, go with a Fluke. However, even the mid range DMMs
from Radio Shack have proven to be reliable and of acceptable accuracy. For some kinds of
measurements - to deduce trends for example - an analog VOM is preferred (though some DMMs
have a bar graph scale which almost as good).
Oscilloscope - While many problems can be dealt with using just a multimeter, a 'scope will be
essential as you get more into advanced troubleshooting. Basic requirements are: dual trace, 10-20
MHz minimum vertical bandwidth, delayed sweep desirable but not essential. A good set of proper
10X/1X probes. Higher vertical bandwidth is desirable but most consumer electronics work can be
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done with a 10 MHz scope. A storage scope or digital scope might be desirable for certain tasks but
is by no means essential for basic troubleshooting.
I would recommend a good used Tektronix (Tek) or Hewlett Packard (HP) scope over a new scope
of almost any other brand. You will usually get more scope for your money and these things last
almost forever. Until recently, my 'good' scope was the militarized version (AN/USM-281A) of the
HP180 lab scope. It has a dual channel 50 MHz vertical plugin and a delayed sweep horizontal
plugin. I have seen these going for under $300 from surplus outfits. For a little more money, you can
get a Tek 465 or 465B (newer version but similar specifications) 100 Mhz scope ($200 to $600,
sometimes cheaper on eBay or elsewhere but there is more risk than buying from a reputable
dealer). I have now acquired a Tek 465B and that's what I use mostly these days. The HP-180 is still
fine but I couldn't pass up a really good deal. :) The Tek 465/B or other similar model will suffice for
all but the most demanding (read: RF or high speed digital) repairs.
A video signal source - both RF and baseband (RCA jacks). Unless you are troubleshooting tuner or
video/audio input problems, either one will suffice. RF sources include a pair of rabbit ears or an
outdoor antenna, a cable connection, or a VCR with a working RF modulator. This will be more
convenient than an antenna connection and will permit you to control the program material. In fact,
making some test tapes using a camcorder or video camera to record static test patterns will allow
you full control of what is being displayed and for how long.
Color bar/dot/crosshatch signal generator. This is a useful piece of equipment if you are doing a lot
of TV or monitor repair and need to perform CRT convergence and chroma adjustments. However,
there are alternatives that are almost as good: a VHS recording of these test patterns will work for
TVs. A PC programmed to output a suitable set of test patterns will be fine for monitors (and TVs if
you can set up the video card to produce an NTSC/PAL signal. This can be put through a VCR to
generate the RF (Channel 3/4) input to your TV if it does not have direct video inputs (RCA jacks).
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Alternatively, commercial line isolation transformers suitable for TV troubleshooting are available
for less than $100 - well worth every penny.
Variable isolation transformer. You don't need to buy a fancy combination unit. A Variac can be
followed by a normal isolation transformer. (The opposite order also works. There may be some
subtle differences in load capacity.).
CAUTION: Keep any large transformer of this type well away from your monitor or TV. The magnetic
field it produces may cause the picture to wiggle or the colors to become messed up - and you to think
there is an additional problem!
Degaussing coil. Make or buy. The internal degaussing coil salvaged from a defunct TV doubled
over to half it original diameter to increase its strength in series with a 200 W light bulb for current
limiting will work just fine. Or, buy one from a place like MCM Electronics - about $15 for one
suitable for all but the largest TVs. Also, see the section: Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT.
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Note that if you are touching the little board on the neck of the CRT, you may want to discharge the
HV even if you are not disconnecting the fat red wire - the focus and screen (G2) voltages on that
board are derived from the CRT HV.
WARNING: Most common resistors - even 5 W jobs - are rated for only a few hundred volts and
are not suitable for the 25 kV or more found in modern TVs and monitors. Alternatives to a long
string of regular resistors are a high voltage probe or a known good focus/screen divider network.
However, note that the discharge time constant with these may be a few seconds. Also see the
section: Additional information on discharging CRTs.
If you are not going to be removing the CRT anode connection, replacing the flyback, or going near
the components on the little board on the neck of the CRT, I would just stay away from the fat red
wire and what it is connected to including the focus and screen wires. Repeatedly shoving a
screwdriver under the anode cap risks scratching the CRT envelope which is something you really
do not want to do.
Again, always double check with a reliable voltmeter!
Reasons to use a resistor and not a screwdriver to discharge capacitors:
1. It will not destroy screwdrivers and capacitor terminals.
2. It will not damage the capacitor (due to the current pulse).
3. It will reduce your spouse's stress level in not having to hear those scary snaps and crackles.
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dust.
A metal clip with a spring keeping it spread out attaches inside the button.
While there are a variety of types of clips actually used, pushing the connector to one side and/or
squeezing it in the appropriate direction (peel up one side of the rubber to inspect) while gently lifting up
should free it. Probably :-).
The clip (when removed) and CRT button look sort of like this:
CRT
||======= HV Cable
/\
Clip
| |
(Removed) _| |_
(No DAG coating in vicinity of HV connector)
____________.-.___________
____________|______|___________ Glass
Metal Button
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be electrically live.
However, some TVs with A/V inputs/outputs actually had a live chassis and used an isolated means
of coupling the signals from/to the external jacks:
(From: Bill Coffel ([email protected]).)
The late 70's and early 80's Sony CVM 1250/1750/2150 (12"/17"/21") monitors (TV) have a HOT
chassis. In fact they are kV-1201/1701/2101 TV sets in larger cabinet With a 3 prong plug!!!! The
inputs and outputs are isolated via opto couplers and transformers on an additional circuit board
(about 6" by 8" and powered by a small transformer) the connector panel is the only part grounded
via the third prong.
If someone thinks its not a live chassis they are in for quite a shock.
Always use an isolation transformer, whatever kind of design is used in the equipment you are
troubleshooting. There are very few situations in which an isolation transformer will hurt. If you use it
automatically, you will never have a chance to screw up.
Identify the appropriate ground point (return) for your multimeter or scope. These should be marked in the
Sams' Photofact or service manual. There may be several such returns such as: non-isolated, signal, and
CRT. Selecting the wrong one - even momentarily connecting to it - can ruin your whole day.
If you are not using an isolation transformer (a no-no), connecting your scope to the wrong ground point
can result in (1) blown fuses and/or blown parts, and a very dangerous situation and (2) readings that don't
make sense generally with distorted power line frequency signals of high amplitude.
Use the non-isolated ground (A) (with your isolation transformer on the TV *only* for measurements of
voltage on the line-connected power supply.
Use the signal ground (B) for all measurements of tuner, IF, video, and sound circuits.
Whenever you get a reading or waveform that is grossly wrong, confirm that you are using the proper
ground point! Note that failures of fusable resistors in the *return* of the HOT or power supply chopper
or elsewhere can also result in points that should be near ground floating at unexpected voltage levels.
The general arrangement of components for a typical TV using a linear B+ supply with isolated auxiliary
supplies for the signal circuits is shown below including the (linear) line-connected power supply,
horizontal deflection output (drive, horizontal output transistor, flyback), and a typical Aux power supply
output.
Line fuse
Main bridge
Part of flyback
_
rectifier
+----------+ B+
transformer
H o--_ --+------|>|---+---|
|-----------------+
Aux 1
|
|
| Filter, |
):: +--|>|--+--o
| +---|>|---+
| REG, etc.|
)::(
_|_
115 VAC
| |
|
|
)::(
--+--|---|<|---+
+----------+
+---+ ::(
|
|
|
|
H-drive
|
+-------+ B
+-> N o---------+---|<|---+---------+
transformer |/ C
__|__
|
A _|_
|| +----|
Horizontal
-_+-> G - Power line earth ground
///
||(
|\ E Output
Signal
via building wiring
^
||(
| Transistor ground
|
|| +------+ (HOT)
'
A _|_
Non-isolated return --> ///
(connected points)
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Getting inside a TV
You will void the warranty - at least in principle. There are usually no warranty seals on a TV so unless
you cause visible damage or mangle the screws, it is unlikely that this would be detected. You need to
decide. A TV still under warranty should probably be returned for warranty service for any covered
problems except those with the most obvious and easy solutions. Another advantage of using warranty
service is that should your problem actually be covered by a design change, this will be performed free of
charge. And, you cannot generally fix a problem which is due to poor design!
Getting into a TV is usually quite simple requiring the removal of anywhere from 4 to 16 Philips or 1/4"
hex head screws - most around the rear edge of the cabinet or underneath, a couple perhaps in the middle.
Disconnect the antenna and/or antenna or cable wiring first as it may stay with catch on the rear cover
you are detaching. Reconnect whatever is needed for testing after the cover is removed.
As you pull the cover straight back (usually) and off, make sure that no other wires are still attached.
Often, the main circuit board rests on the bottom of the cover in some slots. Go slow as this circuit board
may try to come along with the back. Once the back is off, you may need to prop the circuit board up with
a block of wood to prevent stress damage and contact with the work surface.
Most TVs can still be positioned stably on any of three sides (left, right, bottom) even without the rear
cover. However, some require the cover for mechanical strength or to not easily fall over. Be carefullarger TVs, in particular, are quite heavy and bulky. Get someone to help and take precautions if yours is
one of the unstable variety. If need be, the set can usually safely be positioned on the CRT face if it is
supported by foam or a folded blanket.
Reassemble in reverse order. Getting the circuit board to slide smoothly into its slots may take a couple of
attempts but otherwise there should be no surprises.
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Some of these are as large as 1,000 uF charged to 160 V - about 13 w-s or a similar amount of
energy as that stored in an electronic flash. This is enough to be potentially lethal under the wrong
circumstances.
High Voltage capacitor formed by the envelope of the CRT. It is connected to the flyback
transformer by the fat (usually red) wire at the suction cup (well, it looks like one anyhow) attached
to the CRT. This capacitor can hold a charge for quite a while - weeks in the case of an old tube
type TV!
If you want to be doubly sure, discharge this also. However, unless you are going to be removing the
HV connector/flyback, it should not bother you.
The energy stored is about 1 w-s but if you touch it or come near to an exposed terminal, due to the
high voltage, you will likely be handed *all* the energy and you *will* feel it. The danger is
probably more in the collateral damage when you jump ripping flesh and smashing your head
against the ceiling.
Some people calibrate their jump based on voltage - about 1 inch/V. :-).
There will be some HV on the back of the circuit board on the neck of the CRT but although you
might receive a tingle but accidentally touching the focus or screen (G2) pins, it is not likely to be
dangerous.
CRT implosion risk. Don't hammer on it. However, it is more likely that you will break the neck off
the tube since the neck is relatively weak. This will ruin your whole day and the TV or monitor but
will likely not result in flying glass everywhere. Just, don't go out of your way to find out.
Sharp sheet metal and so forth. This is not in itself dangerous but a reflex reaction can send your
flesh into it with nasty consequences.
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Note that if you have a failure of the power supply - blown fuse, startup, etc., then it should be fine to
disconnect the CRT since these problems are usually totally unrelated. Tests should be valid.
However, if you really want to do live testing with the main board removed, here are some considerations.
There are usually several connections to the CRT and cabinet:
Deflection yoke - since the horizontal coils are part of the horizontal flyback circuit, there could be
problems running without a yoke. This could be anything from it appearing totally dead to an
overheating or blown horizontal output transistor. There may be no problems. Vertical and any
convergence coils may or may not be problems as well.
CRT video Driver board - pulling this should not usually affect anything except possibly video
output and bias voltages.
CRT 2nd anode - without the CRT, there will be no capacitor to filter the high voltage and you
would certaily want to insulate the HV connector **real** well. I do not know whether there are
cases where damage to flyback could result from running in thie manner, however.
Front panel controls - disconnecting these may result in inability to even turn the set on, erratic
operation, and other unexpected behavior.
Degauss - you just won't have this function when disconnected. But who cares - you are not going
to be looking at the screen anyhow.
Remote sensor - no remote control but I doubt that the floating signals will cause problems.
Speakers - there will be no audio but this should not cause damage.
If you do disconnect everything, make sure to label any connectors whose location or orientation may be
ambiguous. Most of the time, these will only fit one way but not always.
TV Adjustments
These include both controls accessible to the user (and often not understood) as well as internal
adjustments that may need to be touched up due to the aging of components or following a repair.
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Since brightness and contrast are not always independent, go back and forth until you get the best picture.
Initially adjust the color control for pastel shades rather than highly saturated color. Set the tint control for
best flesh tones. Then, increase the color control to obtain the desired degree of color saturation.
Internal adjustments
All of the service adjustments are accomplished either using controls inside the set (though some may be
accessible by holes in the rear of the cabinet). These are usually pots on the mainboard and CRT neck
boards, or in newer TVs, mostly via a service menu accessed from the remote or by using a manufacturer
specific computer interface.
A Web site with some information on the general objectives of video and color setup procedures for both
direct view and projection TVs is Tru-line Video Technologies.
Where actual pots are present, they may be labeled on the circuit boards or identified by a sticker
on the TV's cover. Otherwise, the service manual or Sams' for the set will be required unless their
function of the relevant pot is obvious.
For service menus accessed via the remote control, service information is almost a necessity since
adjustment procedures vary widely and it is all too easy to totally mess things up - even to the point
of inflicting serious and expensive damage to the set.
For information on accessing the service menus if used on your model, see the section: Setup
adjustments lost - TV service codes. However, even if the access procedure is known, get the
service manual or Sams'!
If a computer interface is required, you can most probably forget about attempting to adjust
anything unless you find a friendly shop to provide the adapter and walk you through the procedure.
Why would they want to do this? Because they know you there is a good chance that you will have
to pay them to unscramble the mess you created!
Focus adjustment
On a decent TV, you should be able to make out the individual scanning lines. If they are fuzzy, especially
in bright areas, then focus may need to be adjusted.
The focus pot is usually located on the flyback transformer or on an auxiliary panel nearby. Where there
are two adjustment knobs on the flyback transformer, the top one is generally for focus and the bottom
one is for G2.
The focus wire usually comes from the flyback or the general area or from a terminal on a voltage the
multiplier module (if used). It is usually a wire by itself going to the little board on the neck of the CRT.
Let the set warm up for at least half an hour. Display a good quality signal. Turn the user color control all
the way down and the brightness and contrast controls all the way up. This will be the worst case. Adjust
the focus control for best overall sharpness - you may not be able to get it perfect everywhere - center as
well as corners. If best focus is at one end of the focus pot's range and still not good enough, there may be
a problem in the focus divider, focus pot, or some related component.
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Adjust screen for a dim white line (raster). If the line is not white at its dimmest point, you will need to
adjust the drive and cutoff controls for R, G, & B.
Alternatively, you can use the following procedure:
Turn R, G, and B screen (or background) controls down. Now turn color control fully counterclockwise -off. Now turn up red screen until the screen just shows a red hue. Now turn red gun down until red tint just
goes away. Now do the same with the green and blue screen controls. Now adjust the two DRIVE controls
for the best black and white picture. That`s all there is to it. I don`t like to work with just a thin "SETUP"
line. Cartoons seem to be the best thing to have on while doing the above procedure. You can also use just
plain snow (no program) if you prefer. If you can obtain a good b@w pic. when you`re done, the tube is
good and the set if most likely functioning properly. Be patient and go slow while watching the large
mirror that you are using during this procedure. (LEE)
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Max brightness should not be high enough that vertical lines (like the needle pulse on the test LD or DVD)
don't bend.
On the test pattern with the multicolored bars, the large bars should have the following colors: white
(actually grey, but fairly light), yellow, cyan, green, purple, red, blue.
The purpose of the narrow bars just below the large bars is to match up the tint balance. You do this with a
blue filter, or killing the R and G guns. The narrow bars will be exactly the same intensity as the large bars
above them, if the color and tint balance is correct.
Here's a quick trick if you're lucky enough to have a set with separate gun killer switches for R, G, and B
guns: When properly set, the narrow bars will be the same intensity as the large bars above them, if you
only turn one gun on at a time. First do red, then green, then blue. Go through the process once and you'll
never forget what it looks like.
Last point: The pluge bar (in the lower right section of the color bar screen) should NOT be visible, being
ten percent below black level. If you can see it, back off the brightness.
Remember:
Brightness sets black level, it should ideally be as black as the screen itself, no more, no less.
Contrast sets white level. Too bright and vertical lines start to bend.
Using just these concepts, you can get REAL close to a proper alignment.
Most people set the color too high. News programs should NOT be as colorful as the movie 'Jingle All The
Way'. (Which, by the way, is a real test of your TV's abilities.) Most people's faces should not be red.
You know you have it all set right when black clothing on people on TV has texture and depth to it, and
also when purple and blue are two distinct colors. Some TV sets don't do that very well as shipped.
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Vertical position may be set via a switch or jumper, a pot, or (mostly in B/W TVs) a set of rings on the
CRT neck.
Vertical size should be set so that there is about 10-15 percent overscan top and bottom. This will allow
ample margin for power line voltage fluctuations, component aging, and the reduction in raster size that
may occur with some VCR special effects (fast play) modes.
Some sets no longer have any vertical size adjustments and depend on the accurate regulation of the
voltage to the vertical output stage to control vertical size.
On those that do, the adjustment is usually a pot in the vertical output circuitry. If your set has a linearity
control, you will need to adjust this in conjunction with the size control as these are usually not
independent.
Some of the newest sets control all these parameters via settings in non-volatile memory and use service
menus accessed via the remote control for nearly all setup.
Pincushion adjustments
There may be two controls - amplitude and phase. Pincushion amplitude as its name implies, controls the
size of the correction. Pincushion phase affects where on the sides it is applied. Don't expect perfection.
If the controls have no effect, there is probably a fault in the pincushion correction circuitry.
It is best to make these adjustments with a crosshatch or dot test pattern
Geometry adjustment
This refers to imperfections in the shape of the picture not handled by the pincushion and size
adjustments. These types of defects include trapezoidal or keystone shaped raster and jogs or wiggles
around the periphery of the raster. Unfortunately, one way these are handled at the factory is to glue little
magnets to strategic locations on the CRT and/or rotate little magnets mounted on the yoke frame. Unless
you really cannot live with the way it is (assuming there isn't something actually broken), leave these
alone! You can end up with worse problems. In any case, carefully mark the position AND orientation of
every magnet so that if this happens, you can get back to where you started. If the magnets are on little
swivels, some experimenting with them one at a time may result in some improvement. Of course, it is
best to obtain a service manual and follow its instructions.
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scan across the face of the CRT so that they are as nearly coincident as possible. Symptoms of poor
convergence are colored borders on solid objects or visible separate R, G, and B images of fine lines or
images,
Note: It is probably best to face the set East-West (front-to-back) when performing any purity and
convergence adjustments. Since you probably do not know what orientation will eventually be used, this is
the best compromise as the earth's magnetic field will be aligned mostly across the CRT. This will
minimize the possible rotation of the picture when the unit is moved to its final position but there may be a
position shift. Neither of these is that significant so it probably doesn't really matter that much unless you
are super fussy. Of course, if you know the final orientation of the TV in your entertainment center - and
you don't expect to be redecorating, use that instead. Or, plan to do the final tilt and position adjustments
after the set is in position - but this will probably require access to the inside!
First, make sure no sources of strong magnetic fields are in the vicinity of the TV - loudspeakers,
refrigerator magnets, MRI scanners, etc. A nearby lightning strike or EMP from a nuclear explosion can
also affect purity.
Cycle power a couple of times to degauss the CRT (1 minute on, 20 minutes off) - see the section:
Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT. If the built in degaussing circuits have no effect, use an external
manual degaussing coil.
Assuming this doesn't help, you will need to set the internal purity and/or convergence adjustments on the
CRT. Modern CRTs usually use a combination of a series of magnetized moveable rings on the neck, and
yoke position and orientation to set purity and convergence.
First, mark the positions of all adjustments - use white paint, 'White out', or a Magic Marker on the ring
magnets on the neck of the CRT, the position and tilt of the deflection yoke, and any other controls that
you may touch deliberately or by accident.
However, if your set is still of the type with a drawer or panel of knobs for these adjustments, don't even
think about doing anything without a service manual and follow it to the letter unless the functions of all
the knobs is clearly marked (some manufacturers actually do a pretty good job of this).
Note: some CRTs do not have any adjustable rings for purity (and static convergence). Either an internal
structure in the neck of the CRT or an external 'permalloy' sleeve is permanently magnetized at the factory
and there is not way of tweaking it in the field. However, it may be possible to use a normal set of magnet
rings in addition to or in place of it to correct for purity or convergence problems due to loss of magnetism
due to age or someone waving a 10 pound magnet near the CRT neck!
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Adjust the purity magnets to center the red vertical raster on the screen.
Move the yoke forward until you have the best overall red purity.
Now, move the yoke forward until you have the best overall red purity. Tighten the clamp securely and
reinstall the rubber wedges (if you set has these) to stabilize the yoke position. Reset the video
adjustments you touched to get a red raster.
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rubber wedges between the yoke and the funnel of the CRT to stabilize the yoke position position.
Refer to your service manual. (Is this beginning to sound repetitious?)
For additional comments on convergence adjustments, see the sections: "Tony's notes on setting
convergence on delta gun CRTs" and "Saga and General setup for large CRT TVs".
Tilted picture
You have just noticed that the picture on your fancy (or cheap) TV is not quite horizontal - not aligned
with the front bezel. Note that often there is some keystoning as well where the top and bottom or left and
right edges of the picture are not quite parallel - which you may never have noticed until now. Since this
may not be correctable, adjusting tilt may represent a compromise at best between top/bottom or left/right
alignment of the picture edges. You may never sleep again knowing that your TV picture is not perfect!
BTW, I can sympathize with your unhappiness. Nothing is more annoying than a just noticeable
imperfection such as this. However, since TVs always overscan, the only time you will really notice a
minor tilt without going out of your way to look for it is if there is text or graphics near the edge of the
screen.
There are several possible causes for a tilted picture:
1. Set orientation. The horizontal component of the earth's magnetic field affects this slgithly.
Therefore, if you rotate the TV you may be able to correct the tilt. Of course, it will probably want
to face the wall!
Other external magnetic fields can sometimes cause a rotation without any other obvious effects have you changed the TV's location? Did an MRI scanner move in next door?
2. Need for degaussing. Most of the time, magnetization of the CRT will result in color problems which
will be far more obvious than a slight rotation. However, internal or external shields or other metal
parts in the set could become magnetized resulting a tilt. More extensive treatment than provided by
the built-in degaussing coil may be needed. Even, the normal manual degaussing procedure may not
be enough to get close enough to all the affected parts.
3. You just became aware of it but nothing has changed. Don't dismiss this offhand. It is amazing how
much we ignore unless it is brought to our attention. Are you a perfectionist?
4. There is an external tilt control which may be misadjusted. Newer Sony monitors have this (don't
know about TVs) - a most wonderful addition. Too bad about the stabilizing wires on Trinitron
CRTs. A digital control may have lost its memory accidentally. The circuitry could have a problem.
5. There is an internal tilt control that is misadjusted or not functioning. The existance of such a
control is becoming more common.
6. The deflection yoke on the CRT has gotten rotated or was not oriented correctly at the time of the
set's manufacture. Sometimes, the entire yoke is glued in place in addition to being clamped adding
another complication.
If the TV was recently bumped or handled roughly, the yoke may have been knocked out of
position. But in most cases, the amount of abuse required to do this with the yoke firmly clamped
and/or glued would have totally destroyed the set in the process.
There is a risk (in addition to the risk of frying yourself on the various voltages present inside an
operating TV) of messing up the convergence or purity when fiddling with the yoke or anything
around it since the yoke position on the neck of the tube and its tilt may affect purity and
convergence. Tape any rubber wedges under the yoke securely in place as these will maintain the
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proper position and tilt of the yoke while you are messing with it. (Don't assume the existing tape
will hold - the adhesive is probably dry and brittle).
7. The CRT may have rotated slightly with respect to the front bezel. Irrespective of the cause of the
tilt, sometimes it is possible to loosen the 4 (typical) CRT mounting screws and correct the tilt by
slightly rotating the CRT. This may be easier than rotating the yoke. Just make sure to take proper
safety precautions when reaching inside!
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A portion of the main (switchmode) power supply that runs all the time.
Failures could be almost anything that would affect normal operation of the power supply as well as
problems with the control circuitry.
The line fuse is typically 2 to 4 A, usually a normal fast blow type. Even so, it may not blow as a result
of faults down the line - the fusable resistor or regulator may fail first.
The main bridge rectifier is often composed of 4 discrete diodes (similar to 1N400Xs) but may also be a
single unit. Failures - usually shorted diodes - are common.
The main filter capacitor can range in size from 200 to 800 uF or more at 200 to 250 V. THIS CAN BE
LETHAL! A typical TV may continue to work at normal line voltage without any noticeable degradation
in performance (hum bars, hum in sound, or shutdown) even if this capacitor is reduced in value by 75%.
Its uF value is therefore not critical.
The regulator is often an IC or hybrid module. Failures resulting in no or reduced output, or no
regulation are common.
The regulator output capacitor is needed for the B+ regulator to function properly. If this capacitor is
reduced in value or develops a high ESR, regulation may fail resulting in instability, oscillation, or
excessive B+ and shutdown.
The regulator bypass resistor reduces the amount of current control needed of the regulator. Caution:
even if the regulator has been pulled, the B+ line will have substantial voltage as a result of this resistor.
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the cord toward the TV) with the set on and/or while pressing the power-on button. If you can get a
response, even momentarily, the cord likely has broken wires internally.
Beyond these basic causes, troubleshooting will be needed inside the set to determine what is defective.
Also see the section: Intermittently dead set - bad cordset.
TV blows fuse
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A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due
to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit,
with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do
some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the
second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting
process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses
will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!
Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest
of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there
originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a
current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is
blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).
If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high
pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on,
deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input.
The most common places would be:
Degauss Posistor - very likely.
Horizontal output transistor.
Power supply regulator if there is one.
Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
Diode(s) in main bridge
Main filter capacitor(s).
You should be able to eliminate these one by one.
Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.
First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a
few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.
Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.
Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component
with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control
current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a
replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.
If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor.
Even better to remove it and measure it.
C-E should be high in at least one direction.
B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.
If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document
will have suitable replacements.
If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the
capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.
Of course, not much else will work either.
If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then
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with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem
with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not
regulating properly.
Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or
plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate
regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT.
There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check
should be performed.
If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.
A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due
to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit,
with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
If you find the problem and repair it yourself, the cost is likely to be under $25.
Internal fuse blew during lightning storm (or elephant hit power pole)
Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time,
damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!
Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms
if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible
to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a
connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines.
Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing
that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require
power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power
switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump
the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized
due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the
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Megohms or higher in one direction. Removed from the circuit, the collector-emitter resistance should be
very high in one direction at least. Depending on the type, the base-emitter resistance may be high in one
direction or around 50 ohms. If any reading on a semiconductor device is under 10 ohms - then the device
most likely bad. Assuming that you do not have a schematic, you should be able to locate the rectifiers
near where the line cord is connected and trace the circuit. The transistors will be either in a TO3 large
metal can or a TOP3 plastic package - on heat sinks. The filter capacitor should eventually measure high
in one direction (it will take a while to charge from your ohmmeter). It could still be failing at full voltage,
however.
If you find one bad part, still check everything else as more than one part may fail and just replacing one
may cause it to fail again.
Assuming everything here checks out, clip a voltmeter set on its 500 V scale or higher across the
horizontal output transistor and turn the power on. Warning - never measure this point if the horizontal
deflection is operating. it is ok now since the set is dead. If the voltage here is 100-150, then there is a
problem in the drive to the horizontal output circuit. If it is low or 0, then there are still problems in the
power supply or with the winding on the flyback transformer.
Other possible problems: bad hybrid voltage regulator, bad startup circuit, bad standby power supply
(dried up filter capacitor, etc.) bad relay contacts as mentioned above. However, these probably would not
have blown the fuse in the first place so are less likely.
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(If you have HV as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched
whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).
1. Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other
fuses you did not catch.
2. Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is
no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.
3. If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all
the bad/open parts.
4. If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no HV), you probably have a
startup problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the
auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for
this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osc. IC from a special line-derived
voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on
and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.
Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The
usual way a TV service person would test for startup problems is to inject a signal to the base of the
HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is
confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself). See the section:
Bypassing the Startup Circuit for details.
If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the
horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the
flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the
deflection or high voltage.
Reduced width picture and/or hum bars in picture and/or hum in sound
The most likely cause is a dried up main filter capacitor. Once the effective capacitance drops low enough,
120 Hz (or 100 Hz in countries with 50 Hz power) ripple will make its way into the regulated DC supply
(assuming full wave rectification).
Another likely cause of similar symptoms is a defective low voltage regulator allowing excessive ripple.
The regulator IC could be bad or filter capacitor following the IC could be dried up.
Either of these faults may cause:
1. A pair of wiggles and/or hum bars in the picture which will float up the screen. For NTSC where the
power line is 60 Hz but the frame rate is 59.94 Hz, it will take about 8 seconds for each bar to pass a
given point on the screen. (On some sets, a half wave recitifier is used resulting in a single wiggle or
hum bar).
2. Hum in the sound. This may or may not be noticeable with the volume turned down.
3. Possible regulation problems resulting in HV or total shutdown or power cycling on and off.
The best approach to testing the capacitors is to clip a good capacitor of approximately the same uF rating
and at least the same voltage rating across the suspect capacitor (with the power off). A capacitor meter
can also be used but the capacitor may need to be removed from the circuit.
Once the capacitors have been confirmed to be good, voltage measurements on the regulator should be
able to narrow down the problem to a bad IC or other component.
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probably bad. Unsolder and check again - it should test infinite (greater than 1M ohms) in one direction.
Summary of possible causes:
Bad solder connections.
Other shorted components like capacitors.
Other problems in the power supply or its controller.
Bad flyback.
Short or excessive load on secondary supplies fed from flyback.
Short in horizontal yoke windings.
Problem with startup drive (cycling on overvoltage).
Shorted Components
A failure of the horizontal output transistor or power supply switchmode transistor will blow a fuse or
fusable resistor.
Look for blown fuses and test for open fusable resistors in the power circuits. If you find one, then test the
HOT and/or switchmode transistor for shorts.
Other possibilities: rectifier diodes or main filter capacitor.
While you are at it, check for bad connections - prod the circuit board with an insulated stick when the
problem reoccurs - as these can cause parts to fail.
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partially dried up main filter capacitor could also cause a shutdown but there might be other
symptoms like hum bars in the picture just before this happened. Clipping a good capacitor across
the suspect (with power off!) would confirm or eliminate this possibility.
If it uses a pull-knob (or other hard on/off switch), then this may be like pulling the plug and would reset
any abnormal condition.
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Determine if behavior is similar when adjusting the user brightness control and the screen (G2) pot
(on the flyback) or master brightness control. If the TV quits at about the same brightness level,
overcurrent protection is likely.
Disconnect the filaments to the CRT (unsolder a pin on the CRT socket) and see if it still shuts down
under the same conditions. If it is overcurrent protection, shut down should now *not* take place
since there is no beam current.
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What is a posistor?
A posistor is a combination of a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) resistor and another resistorelement to heat it up and keep it hot. Sometimes, these will go by the name posister or thermistor. The
heater is a disk shaped resistor across the power line and the themister is a disk shaped device in series
with the degauss coil. They are in clamped together to be in close contact thermally. You can pry off the
lid and see for yourself.
The most common failure mode is for the part to short across the line.
Its function is to control degauss, so the only thing you lose when you remove one of these is the degauss
function on power-on. When you turn the TV or monitor on, the PTC resistor is cold and low resistance.
When heated, it becomes very high resistance and turns off the degauss coil but gradually - the current
ramps down to zero rather than being abruptly cut off..
Computer Component Source stocks a wide variety, I believe but it may be cheaper to go direct to the
manufacturer if they will sell you one.
Flameproof Resistors
Flameproof Resistor or Fusable Resistor are often designated by the symbol 'FR'. They are basically the
same. The designation "Flameproof" means that if they fail due to excessive current, there will be no
chance of, well, them going up in flames. :) They will also have a power rating and thus can act as a
protective device, though a specific circuit may not depend on a precise fuse rating, rather that the resistor
will open with massively excessive current.
You may see these in the switchmode power supplies used in TVs and monitors. They will look like power
resistors but will be colored blue or gray, or may be rectangular ceramic blocks. They should only be
replaced with flameproof resistors with identical ratings. They serve a very important safety function.
These usually serve as fuses in addition to any other fuses that may be present (and in addition to their
function as a resistor, though this isn't always needed). Since your FR has blown, you probably have
shorted semiconductors that will need to be replaced as well. I would check all the transistors and diodes
in the power supply with an ohmmeter. You may find that the main switch mode transistor has decided to
turn into a blob of solder - dead short. Check everything out even if you find one bad part - many
components can fail or cause other components to fail if you don't locate them all. Check resistors as well,
even if they look ok.
Since they function as fuses, flameproof resistors should not be replaced with higher wattage types unless
specifically allowed by the manufacturer. These would not blow at the same level of overload possibly
resulting in damage to other parts of the circuitry and increasing the risk of fire.
Then, with a load on the output of the power supply use a Variac to bring up the voltage slowly and
observe what happens. At 50 VAC or less, the switcher should kick in and produce some output though
correct regulation may not occur until 80 VAC or more. The outputs voltages may even be greater than
spec'd with a small load before regulation is correct.
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is probably a low voltage regulator problem - bad capacitor, resistor, or chip. Use freeze spray to narrow it
down. If this is solid, then there could be a high voltage drift but this would be somewhat unusual without
other symptoms (like arcing) since the HV is nearly always tracks the low voltage supply.
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The low voltage regulator may be letting the voltage rise excessively. Then, a dark picture or video muting
during a channel change triggers the X-ray or power supply overvoltage protection.
Monitor the output of the low voltage power supply B+ to see if it is stable as the brightness/scene
changes.
Deflection Problems
Deflection fundamentals
Note: the following is just a brief introduction. For more detailed deflection system theory of operation
and sample circuits, see the document: TV and Monitor Deflection Systems.
The electron beams in the CRT need to be scanned horizontally and vertically in a very precise manner to
produce a raster - and a picture.
For NTSC and PAL, the horizontal scan rates are 15,734 and 15,625 Hz respectively.
For NTSC and PAL, the vertical scan rates are 60 and 50 Hz (approximately) respectively.
The deflection yoke includes sets of coils for horizontal and vertical scanning oriented at 90 degrees with
respect to each other. Additional coils are needed to correct for pincushion and other geometric defects.
The deflection circuits must be synchronized and phase locked to the incoming video signal.
Therefore, we have the following functions:
1. Sync separator to obtain horizontal and vertical synchronization pulses.
2. Horizontal oscillator which locks to horizontal sync pulses.
3. Horizontal drive followed by horizontal output which feeds deflection yoke (and flyback for HV
and other voltages), Yoke requires a sawtooth current waveform for linear horizontal deflection.
Horizontal output in all but the smaller TVs is a large discrete power transistor, most often an NPN
bipolar type.
4. Vertical oscillator which locks to vertical sync pulses. Yoke requires sawtooth waveform for linear
vertical deflection.
5. Vertical drive/output which feeds vertical deflection yoke. Newer TVs use ICs for vertical drive and
output.
6. Various additional deflection signals to correct for the imperfections in the geometry of large angle
deflection CRTs. These may be fed into the normal deflection coils and/or there may be separate
coils mounted on the neck of the CRT.
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TV non-linearity
Most modern TVs are nearly perfect with respect to linearity. There are never any user adjustments and
there may not even be any internal adjustments. See the sections: Horizontal position, size, and linearity
adjustment and/or Vertical position, size, and linearity adjustment.
A sudden change in linearity or a TV that requires a warmup period before linearity becomes acceptable
may have a bad component - probably a capacitor in the horizontal deflection circuits. For the latter, try
some cold spray or a heatgun to see if you can locate the bad part.
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4. X-ray protection is activating - either due to excess HV or due to a fault in the X-ray protection
circuitry.
If the problem comes and goes erratically it sounds like a bad connection, especially if whacking has an
effect. If it comes and goes periodically, then a component could be heating up and failing, then cooling,
etc.
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Vertical squashed
This is a vertical deflection problem - possibly a bad capacitor, bad connection, flyback/pumpup diode, or
other component. None of these should be very expensive (in a relative sort of way).
If the symptoms change - particularly if they become less severe - as the set warms up, a dried up
electrolytic capacitor is most likely. If they get worse, it could be a bad semiconductor. Freeze spray or a
heat gun may be useful in identifying the defective component.
It is often easiest to substitute a good capacitor for each electrolytic in the vertical output circuit. Look for
bad connections (particularly to the deflection yoke), then consider replacing the vertical output IC or
transistor(s).
A defective deflection yoke is also possible or in rare cases, a bad yoke damping resistor (e.g., 500 ohms,
may be mounted on the yoke assembly itself).
Where the entire top half or botton half of the picture is squashed into into the center (i.g., only half the
picture shows), a missing power supply voltage, defective vertical output IC, or a component associated
with it is likely bad. A bad connection or blown fusable resistor may be the cause of a missing power
supply voltage.
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The following are NOT possible: CRT, flyback (except possibly where it's the source for a missing voltage
but this is more likely just a bad solder connection at a flyback pin), tuner (except for the famous
RCA/GE/Proscan or Sony models where the controller is at fault - see the sections on these specific
brands). I am just trying to think of really expensive parts that cannot possibly be at fault :-).
Note that some movies or laser karaoke discs are recorded in 'letterbox' format which at first glance looks
like a squashed vertical problem. However, the picture aspect ratio will be correct and turning up the
brightness will reveal a perfectly normal raster above and below the picture.
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somehow changed position or got dirty or corroded contacts, you will have this symptom. Flip the
switch back and forth a couple of times. If there is some change, then replace, clean, resolder, or
even bypass it as appropriate.
2. Bad connection to deflection yoke or other parts in vertical output circuit. Bad connections are
common in TVs and monitors. Check around the pins of large components like transformers, power
transistors and resistors, or connectors for hairline cracks in the solder. Reseat internal connectors.
Check particularly around the connector to the deflection yoke on the CRT.
3. Bad vertical deflection IC or transistor. You will probably need the service manual for this and the
following. However, if the vertical deflection is done with an IC, the ECG Semiconductor Master
Substitution guide may have its pinout which may be enough to test it with a scope.
4. Other bad parts in vertical deflection circuit though there are not that many parts that would kill the
deflection entirely.
5. Loss of power to vertical deflection circuits. Check for blown fusable resistors/fuses and bad
connections.
6. Loss of vertical oscillator or vertical drive signals.
The most likely possibilities are in the deflection output stage or bad connections to the yoke.
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6. CRT shorting internally. If this happens only once in two weeks, it may be diffuclt to track down :-(.
The HOT should not run hot if properly mounted to the heat sink (using heatsink compound). It should not
be too hot to touch (CAREFUL - don't touch with power on - it is at over a hundred volts with nasty
multihundred volt spikes and line connected - discharge power supply filter caps first after unplugging). If
it is scorching hot after a few minutes, then you need to check the other possibilities.
It is also possible that a defective flyback - perhaps one shorted turn - would not cause an immediate
failure and only affect the picture slightly. This would be unusual, however. See the section: Testing of
flyback (LOPT) transformers.
Note that running the set with a series light bulb may allow the HOT to survive long enough for you to
gather some of the information needed to identify the bad component.
Vertical foldover
The picture is squashed vertically and a part of it may be flipped over and distorted.
This usually indicates a fault in the vertical output circuit. If it uses an IC for this, then the chip could be
bad. It could also be a bad capacitor or other component in this circuit. It is probably caused by a fault in
the flyback portion of the vertical deflection circuit - a charge pump that generates a high voltage spike to
return the beam to the top of the screen.
Test components in the vertical output stage or substitute for good ones.
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which blank the screen during vertical retrace. In other words, the pulses are turning off the video signals
at the wrong time.
The most common true vertical fault is geometric distortion and a foldover of white lines at the top of the
screen. This is almost always caused by the electrolytic capacitor on or near the collector of the vertical
output transistor or part of the IC which has the supply voltage (B+) on it. In the old tube days, the
general rule was that bottom distortion was in the cathode of the output tube and distortion at the top was
caused by a fault in the drive circuit.
In particular, this sounds like a pincushion problem - to correct for pincushion, a signal from the vertical
deflection that looks something like a rectified sinewave is used to modify width based on vertical
position. There is usually a control to adjust the magnitude of this signal and also often, its phase. It would
seem that this circuit has ceased to function.
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If you have the schematics, check them for 'pincushion' adjustments and check signals and voltages. If
not, try to find the 'pincushion' magnitude and phase adjustments and look for bad parts or bad
connections in in the general area. Even if there are no adjustment pots, there may still be pincushion
correction circuitry.
If the internal controls have absolutely no effect, then the circuit is faulty. With modern digital setup
adjustments, then it is even tougher to diagnose since these control a D/A somewhere linked via a
microprocessor.
Pincushion adjustment adds a signal to the horizontal deflection to compensate for the geometry of the
CRT/deflection yoke. If you have knobs, then tracing the circuitry may be possible. With luck, you have a
bad part that can be identified with an ohmmeter - shorted or open. For example, if the pincushion
correction driver transistor is shorted, it will have no effect and the picture will be too wide and distorted
as shown above.
However, without a schematic even this will be difficult. If the adjustments are digital this is especially
difficult to diagnose since you don't even have any idea of where the circuitry would be located.
Faulty capacitors in the horizontal deflection power supplies often cause a similar set of symptoms.
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with respect to high voltage. However, it should be much better than with the faulty yoke.
If possible, compare all measurements with a known good identical deflection yoke. Of course, if
you have one, swapping is the fastest surest test of all! In many cases, even a not quite identical
yoke will be close enough to provide useful information for testing. However, it must be from a
similar piece of equipment with similar specifications - size and scan range. Don't expect a color TV
yoke to work in a high performance SVGA monitor!
Note: the substitute yoke doesn't have to be mounted on the CRT which would disturb purity and
convergence adjustments but see the caution above about drilling holes in the CRT face plate!
The deflection yoke consists of the horizontal coils and vertical coils (wound on a ferrite core), and
mounting structure. Little magnets or rubber/ferrite strips may be glued in strategic locations. DO NOT
disturb them! In rare instances, there may be additional coils or other components mounted on the same
assembly. The following deals only with the actual deflection coils themselves - the other components (if
any) can be tested in a similar manner.
Where the test procedure below requires removal of the yoke, see the section: Removing and replacing
the deflection yoke first.
Horizontal - the horizontal section consists of an even number of windings hooked up in
parallel/interleaved with half of the windings on each of the two ferrite core pieces.
The horizontal windings will be oriented with the coil's axis vertical and mounted on the inside of
the yoke (against the CRT neck/funnel). It may be wound with thicker wire than that used for the
vertical windings.
Resistance check - This may be possible without removing the yoke from the CRT if the
terminal block is accessible. Disconnect the individual windings from each other and
determine if the resistances are nearly equal. Check for shorts between windings and between
the horizontal and vertical windings as well.
Typical resistance of the intact windings (at the yoke connector assuming no other
components): TV or NTSC/PAL monitor - a few ohms (3 ohms typical), SVGA monitor - less
than an ohm (.5 ohms typical).
Inspection - Look for charring or other evidence of insulation breakdown due to arcing or
overheating. For the horizontal windings, this will require removing the yoke from the CRT
since little if any of the windings are visible from the outside. However, even then, most of
the windings are hidden under layers of wire or behind the ferrite core.
Ring test. See the document "Testing of Flyback (LOPT) Transformers". This deals with
flyback transformers but the principles are the same. Disconnecting the windings may help
isolate the location of a fault. However, for windings wound on the same core, the inductive
coupling will result in a short anywhere on that core reducing the Q.
Vertical - The vertical section is usually manufactured as a pair of windings wired in parallel (or
maybe in series) though for high vertical scan rate monitors, multiple parallel/interleaved windings
are also possible.
The vertical windings will be oriented with the coil's axis horizontal and wound on the outside of the
yoke. The wire used for the vertical winding may be thinner than that used for the horizontal
windings.
Resistance check - This may be possible without removing the yoke from the CRT if the
terminal block is accessible. Disconnect the individual windings from each other and
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determine if the resistances are nearly equal. Check for shorts between windings and between
the horizontal and vertical windings as well.
Typical resistance of the intact windings (at the yoke connector assuming no other
components): TV or NTSC/PAL monitor - more than 10 ohms (15 ohms typical), SVGA
monitor - at least a few ohms (5 ohms typical).
Inspection - Look for charring or other evidence of insulation breakdown due to arcing or
overheating. The accessible portions of the vertical windings are mostly visible without
removing the yoke from the CRT. However, most of the windings are hidden under layers of
wire or behind the ferrite core.
Ring test - Since the vertical windings have significant resistance and very low Q, a ring test
may be of limited value.
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Next, perform ohmmeter tests for obvious short circuits between windings, much reduced winding
resistances, and open windings.
For the low voltage windings, service manuals may provide the expected DC resistance (Sams' PhotoFact,
for example). Sometimes, this will change enough to be detected - if you have an ohmmeter with a low
enough scale. These are usually a fraction of an ohm. It is difficult or impossible to measure the DC
resistance of the HV winding since the rectifiers are usually built in. The value is not published either.
Caution: make sure you have the TV or monitor unplugged and confirm that the main filter capacitor is
discharged before touching anything! If you are going to remove or touch the CRT HV, focus, or screen
wires, discharge the HV first using a well insulated high value resistor (e.g., several M ohms, 5 W) to the
CRT ground strap (NOT signal ground. See the section: Safe discharging of capacitors in TVs and video
monitors.
Partially short circuited windings (perhaps, just a couple of turns) and sometimes shorts in the
focus/screen divider will drastically lower the Q and increase the load the flyback puts on its driving
source with no outputs connected. Commercial flyback testers measure the Q by monitoring the decay
time of a resonant circuit formed by a capacitor and a winding on the flyback under test after it is excited
by a pulse waveform. It is possible to easily construct testers that perform a well. See the companion
document Testing of Flyback (LOPT) Transformers for further information.
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1. Horizontal output transistor (HOT) turns on during scan. Current increases linearly in primary of
flyback transformer since it appears as an inductor. Magnetic field also increases linearly. Note:
flyback is constructed with air gap in core. This makes it behave more like an inductor as far as the
primary drive is concerned.
2. HOT shuts off at end of scan. Current decreases rapidly. Magnetic field collapses inductively
coupling to secondary and generates HV pulse. Inductance and capacitance of flyback, snubber
capacitors, and parasitic capacitance of circuitry and yoke form a resonant circuit. Ideally, voltage
waveform across HOT during flyback (retrace) period will be a single half cycle and is clamped by
damper diode across HOT to prevent undershoot.
3. Secondary of flyback is either a single large HV winding with HV rectifiers built in (most often) or
an intermediate voltage winding and a voltage multiplier built in or a separate unit (see the section:
What is a tripler?. The output will be DC HV pulses.
4. The capacitance of the CRT envelope provides the needed filtering to adequately smooth the HV
pulses into a DC voltage.
5. A high resistance voltage divider provides the several kV focus voltage and sometimes the several
hundred volt screen (G2) voltage as well. Often, the adjustments for these voltages are built into the
flyback. Sometimes they are mounted separately. The focus and screen are generally the top and
bottom knobs, respectively.
What is a tripler?
In some TVs, the flyback transformer only generates about 6-10 kV AC which is then boosted by a diodecapacitor ladder to the 18-30 kV needed for modern color CRTs. The unit that does this is commonly
called a tripler since it multiplies the flyback output by about 3 times. Some TVs use a quadrupler instead.
However, many TVs generate the required HV directly with a winding with the required number of turns
inside the flyback transformer.
Triplers use a diode-capacitor ladder to multiply the 6-10 kV AC to 18-30 kV DC. Many triplers are
separate units, roughly cubical, and are not repairable. Some triplers are built in to the flyback - it is
probably cheaper to manufacture the HV diodes and capacitors than to wind a direct high voltage
secondary on the flyback core. In either case, failure requires replacement of the entire unit.
For external multipliers, the terminals are typically marked:
IN - from flyback (6-10 kV AC).
OUT - HV to CRT (20-30 kV DC).
F - focus to CRT (2-8 kV).
CTL - focus pot (many megohm to ground).
G, GND, or COM - ground.
Symptoms of tripler failure are: lack of high voltage or insufficient high voltage, arcing at focus protection
spark gap, incorrect focus voltage, other arcing, overload of HOT and/or flyback, or focus adjustment
affecting brightness (screen) setting or vice-versa. Where there is overloading, if you disconnect the tripler
and everything else comes back to life (obviously, there will be no HV or picture), then it is very likely
bad.
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A side effect of activation of this circuitry is that resetting may require pulling the plug or turning off the
real (hard) power switch.
Was there anything else unusual about the picture lately that would indicate an actual problem with the
HV? If this is the case, then there may be some problem with the HV regulation. If not, the shutdown
circuit may be overly sensitive or one of its components may be defective - a bad connection of leaky cap
(or zener).
If the horizontal frequency is not correct (probably low) due to a faulty horizontal oscillator or sync circuit
or bad horizontal hold control (should one exist!), HV may increase and trigger shutdown. Of course, the
picture won't be worth much either!
One symptom of excessive HV (but not required) is an overly bright picture of reduced size.
The HV shutdown circuit usually monitors a winding off of the flyback for voltage exceeding some
reference and then sets a flip flop shutting the horizontal drive off.
On some Sony models, a HV resistive divider performs this function and these do fail - quite often. The
big red Hstat block is a common cause of immediate or delayed shutdown on certain Sony monitors and
TVs. See the section: Sony TVs/monitors and Hstat.
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the high voltage supply circuitry somehow gets too high. This voltage, often around +160 VDC, nowadays
comes from the TV's main regulated power supply and is applied to one end of the flyback transformer
primary. The other end connects to the collector of the horizontal output (a large, high voltage power
transistor on a heat sink), the emitter of which connects to ground. Horizontal drive pulses originating in
the video processor circuit drive the base terminal of this transistor, switching it on when the pulses are
high and thus supplying current to the flyback transformer primary. The secondary winding, having many
more turns, steps up the +160 Volts applied to the primary to 25 - 45 kV, which is rectified, filtered, and
applied to the anode of the picture tube. Now if the +160 Volts increases, say to +200 Volts, due to some
malfunction in the main power supply regulation, then the secondary voltage will also increase by the
same percentage, and trip the high voltage shutdown circuit.
Fortunately, although the high voltage quickly vanishes after shutdown, preventing you from measuring it,
the low voltage usually stays on. You can measure it (carefully) from the collector of the horizontal output
transistor to ground. Of course, if you lack a schematic, you won't know if this voltage is correct or not, so
again trace it back from the flyback transformer primary to the main TV power supply. There you may
find a label printed on the printed circuit board telling you the normal voltage. You can also get a clue by
looking at the voltage rating of any filter capacitor connected from this voltage line to ground. For
example, if the filter capacitor is rated at 200 V and you are measuring 220 V, you know you have a
problem. Sometimes the voltage will come from a linear voltage regulator IC whose pinout and output
voltage you can look up from the chip number. These linear regulators can short from input to output,
raising the output voltage and leading to the shutdown problem.
If the low voltage comes instead from a switching regulated supply and you can't readily determine the
normal output voltage, check for a bad filter capacitor on the feedback winding. Most such power supplies
put out several regulated voltages, derived from separate windings on the switching supply transformer,
then rectified and filtered, for use in various places in the set. Regulation of these voltages is accomplished
by sampling the output from a dedicated feedback winding, and then cranking up the transistor switch if
that voltage is too low, or cutting back the transistor switch if the voltage is too high. The idea is that, since
all of the output voltages come from the same transformer, with the output voltage of each determined by
the number of turns on its winding of the transformer, if one voltage (from the feedback winding)is
correct, then they all will be correct. Now if the filter capacitor on the feedback winding opens, lowering
the sensed DC voltage from that winding, what will the voltage regulator circuit do? Not realizing that the
reduced feedback is due to a bad filter capacitor, it simply cranks up the transistor switch to get the
voltage back up where it belongs. But that raises all the other output voltages as well, making them higher
than they should be, including the one powering the high voltage supply! And that will trip the shutdown
circuit.
When replacing filter capacitors, be sure to use good ones rated for 105 (not 85) degrees C, and able to
withstand the high frequency pulses they are getting hammered by in these circuits.
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to the HOT (B+), by snubber capacitors across the HOT, and the turns ratio of the flyback. The HV is
directly related to the B+ so if this is low, the HV will be low as well. Faulty snubber capacitors will
generally do the opposite - increase the HV and the X-ray protection circuits may kick in. However, low
HV is also a possibility. The only way the turns ratio of the flyback can change is from a short which will
manifest its presence in other ways as well - excessive heating and load on the horizontal output circuits.
While a shorted second anode connection to the CRT is theoretically possible, this is quite unlikely
(except, as noted, due to dirt).
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Arcing at spark gaps and gas discharge tubes on CRT neck board or elsewhere
These are protective devices intended to breakdown and divert excessive voltage away from the CRT
(usually).
This is rarely due to a defective sparkgap or gas discharge tube but rather is a safety mechanism like a fuse
designed to protect the internal electrodes of the CRT if the focus or screen voltage should become
excessive. The sparkgap breaks down first and prevents internal arcing in the CRT. These sparkgaps may
be built into the CRT socket as well.
Arcing at a sparkgap or a glowing or flashing discharge tube may be accompanied by total loss of picture
or bad focus, brightness or focus fluctuations, or any of a number of similar symptoms. A common cause
is a breakdown inside the focus divider (usually part of the flyback or tripler) but could also be due to
excessive uncontrolled high voltage due to a failure of the B+ regulator or HOT snubber capacitor, or
(ironically) even a short inside the CRT.
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Spark gaps may be actual two or three pin devices with seemingly no insides, part of the CRT
socket, or printed on the circuit board itself.
Gas discharge tubes look like small neon lamps (e.g., NE2) but could be filled with some other gas
mixture to provide a controlled higher breakdown voltage.
Therefore, like a fuse, don't just replace or disable these devices, locate and correct underlying problem.
The CRT makes an expensive fuse!
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The CRT has a coating on the inner wall of its glass envelope, and also there is a metal shadow mask or
aperture grill in the front. There is also a metal shroud around its parameter.
The type of emission from the CRT is known as soft X-Ray emission. This is because it is low power, and
is in the lower X-Ray region.
The X-Ray emission is strongest at the rear of the TV set because there is some opened area where the
electron gun is located. But, this is very weak as well. The radiation from a TV or monitor is not being
focused to one point, and is also below the threshold level of being dangerous.
The long term effect of the total radiation from normal operating TV equipment is not fully known.
However, the effect of X-Ray radiation is accumulative over time if there are no breaks in between the
exposures. As for standard focused X-Rays like the ones used in a medical or security facility, these and
most of their effects are well known.
As for normal working TV equipment, when used normally, the total radiation is less that what you would
get when walking on the street. There are many satellites beaming down signals, radio and TV broadcast
stations, communications systems, and then cell phones.
The X-Ray radiation in a TV set is emitted from the effect of the High Voltage drive generating the
electron beam. If the High Voltage exceeds the designed safety limit for the CRT, then there is concern
that the X-Ray radiation may have some effect on anyone that is in close proximity to the CRT. The
amount of by which the high voltage exceeds the design specfifications will determine the total X-Ray
emission. Since this emission is not focused into a fine area, its immediate danger is also greatly reduced.
All TV sets by law must have in their design some type of protection to shut the TV down if there is
excessive High Voltage, excessive High Voltage current drive, and a number of other safety criterias.
There is also the concern about electromagnetic radiation. In fact all radio frequencies are based on
electromagnetic radiation (EMR).
There was a great concern about the low frequency EMR. This would come from the power supply,
deflection amplifier stages, and then from the deflection yoke and flyback transformer. There different
types of EMR from TV sets.
Concerning TV's and monitors, this radiation worry comes up from time to time. If a woman is pregnant it
would be wiser for her to not expose the unborn baby by working close to a terminal or monitor. This
nonexposure is a good policy to make sure that everyone is safe rather than suffer any type of damage or
health risks.
As for a safety concern for a mother to be, or a small baby, they can be in front of a TV set but at least 5
to 7 feet away. From this distance there should not be any danger at all.
The above is from my personal observations and is very general. I have also read various publications over
the years that pertain to this subject.
I have a personal concern about the radiation from TV sets and monitors because I do an extensive
amount of service on these. I am also doing a lot of picture tube changes in monitor equipment. I am then
exposed for a few hours because I must do the purity and convergence setups of these sets. I have some
days where I work 10 to 12 hours doing TV and monitor service work.
If you want a TV monitor that will put out near zero X-Ray radiation, and very low electromagnetic
radiation, then go for one of the new LCD flatscreen monitors.
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Your 4 year old son shot the Sony in the flyback transformer. Smoke and sparks everywhere. Great aim!
Who says these FAQs cannot be funny?
Needless to say, unplug the set immediately. Inspect around the target area for obviously blown or
damaged components. Test fuses and fusable resistors. Repair burnt solder connections and circuit board
traces. Once the set is entirely dried out, power it up - preferably through a series light bulb and/or Variac
until you are sure nothing else will let loose. Look, listen, and smell for any unusual behavior. If it now
works, then consider yourself lucky. If not, there may be damage to transistors, ICs, or other components.
(From: Richard Symonds ([email protected]).)
We're seeing another 'hazard' these days, people cleaning their television screens with window cleaner - no
problem in the days of separate chassis but with the entire circuit board jammed under the tube on most
TVs these days just a few drips and its all over. Some have just corroded the switch banks (had one
recently just got into the A/V switch - when you walked around the room the set changed to A/V and back
by itself!) but a few have got around the microprocessors and surface mount components and resulted in
complete write-offs. I suppose the damage is the opposite of electroplating as the microprocessors have
constant voltage to them. Never mind, they'll be a good source of parts for future use.
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A condition with somewhat similar symptoms is bad focus - fuzzy picture - but only with bright
(high beam current) scenes. This could be just a matter of adjusting the focus control but may also
indicate sub-optimal filament voltage due to bad connections or components in the filament circuit,
or a tired worn CRT. You won't get high beam current without some serious spot blooming (a fat
beam because too much cathode area is used) and you will get cathode 'poisoning' after prolonged
use.
Visually inspect the neck of the CRT for the normal orange glow of the filaments and check for bad
connections and bad parts.
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mounting and super insulation) such that it cannot be called into question should there be a fire
where the monitor is even the slightest bit suspect.
Various size external focus/screen divider networks can be purchased but whether this is truly a cost
effective solution is not obvious.
(From: Larry Sabo ([email protected]).)
I just ordered a 'bleeder resistor' from Data Display Ltd (Canadian sub of CCS) to use as a cure for
flybacks with flaky focus/screen pots. It contains focus and screen pots, and costs Cdn$ 16.99, which is a
lot less than a complete flyback, that's for sure. I expect it will be compatible with quite a wide range of
flybacks.
I have used bleeder resistor assemblies from duff flybacks a couple of times with good success. You
connect the HV lead into the HV cap of the original flyback, ground all pins of the sub flyback, and use
the focus and screen leads from the sub bleeder assembly in place of the originals.
Looks like hell but works fine. Mounting (and securing) the substitute is a challenge given the limited
space available. I only use this approach on what would otherwise be uneconomical to repair, and always
advise the owner or customer of the cobbling job. It also enables you to verify whether it is the flyback
that needs replacement, versus the CRT.
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high impedance voltmeter (1000 M). If the CRT is arcing, it will be much lower on the CRT side and will
probably fluctuate. You can play similar games with focus voltage.
Focus or screen voltage drifts after warmup only when CRT is connected
"I have a 3-5 yr old TV that loses screen voltage. I believe that the problem is specific to the
CRT or the flyback, either one is a guess I'd rather be sure of prior to ordering a part.
The screen voltage will come up to normal after sitting over night, 400 V or so. After
approximately 5 minutes or slightly longer, I hear a slight arcing. From that point on, the
screen voltage will wander anywhere from 75 V up to maybe 150 V. Adjustment of the screen
control on the flyback has only a small effect and is not permanent. Removing the CRT pcb
results in the screen voltage returning to normal.
I cannot find the source of the arcing, as it happens quickly and I have always been on the
other side of the set when it happens. I have replaced the CRT socket, thinking the spark gap
was arcing. I have checked the CRT for G1 and HK shorts on a sencore CRT checker, it
checks good, but I am aware that since it is an intermittent problem, that the checker
probably will not catch it."
This is very likely a short between electrodes inside the CRT unless there is something on the neck board
that is breaking down as a result of some connection to the CRT. The flyback should largely not know the
difference with the socket plugged into the CRT. However, on rare occasions, there is contamination
within the 'plastic alignment base' on the end of the CRT neck. (It is possible to *carefully* remove the
plastic piece and clean the CRT glass/pins. Resinstall the plastic piece if it is still intact or leave it off - just
take care in replacing the CRT neck board.)
One possibility is that glue used to hold components down on some circuit boards has deteriorated and
turned conductive. Check for tan to brown stuff shorting traces on the CRT neck board. If this is present
on the focus or screen traces or wires, it may just be your problem. Scrape off all of the old glue and then
clean thoroughly. Repair any damaged traces.
What happens to the HV? A HV breakdown possibly inside the CRT would result in all the voltages being
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dragged down.
What happens to the picture?
If you connect a charged HV capacitor (guessing a couple hundred volts, a couple microfarads) between
G2 and G1 or focus, you **will** know if tapping the neck results in a momentary short! I cannot predict
whether this will be a temporary cure or permanent killer.
Here is another thing to try: put a 100 M ohm or so resistor between SCREEN (or FOCUS) and the CRT
socket. This should not affect the behavior much until the failure occurs. Then, check the voltage on both
sides with a high impedance voltmeter (>1000 M). If the CRT is arcing, it will be much lower on the CRT
side.
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Psychodelic color
The means colors that are not normal and that adjustment of the user controls is not able to correct it so
that all colors of the picture are properly displayed at the same time. For example, you are unable to get
any yellows or blues in scenes that should have these colors..
Make sure the user color and tint controls have not been accidentally turned while cleaning or purposedly
misadjusted by small (or large) kids.
Perform the user setup described in the section: User picture adjustment.
Confirm that the source is not a weird color video - try another channel or a tape.
Verify that this is not a missing color problem - one of the primary R, G, or B, has disappeared. If so, refer
to the section: Intermittent or missing colors.
Once these have been eliminated, you are left with the following possibilities:
1. Defective part around the chroma chip/circuit. Misadjusted color oscillator.
2. Bad connections or short circuit in area of chroma chip/circuit.
3. Defective chroma chip (don't suspect this first just because it is probably very expensive).
4. Bad degauss circuit resulting in lack of degauss or abrupt termination of degauss current rather than
smooth tail off. The CRT is not being properly demagnetized and color purity is totally messed up.
5. Bad CRT - the shadow mask has been damaged and it is impossible to properly adjust purity across
the screen.
A service manual or Sams', DMM, and scope will help greatly in attempting to troubleshoot this unless it is
an obvious bad connection. For (1)-(3), try prodding the main board around the chroma chip with an
insulated tool to see if you can restore normal color. For (4) try manually degaussing (see the section:
Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT. If this clears up the colors until at least when it is power cycled, then a
degauss problem is likely.
Something as simple as a bad resistor or inductor can be the cause - don't immediately suspect the most
expensive and difficult to replace part.
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Any intermittent problems with monitors that cause random sudden changes in the picture brightness,
color, size, or position are often a result of bad connections. Strategically placed bad connections can also
cause parts to blow. For example, a bad connection to the SCR anode in a phase controlled power supply
can result in all the current passing through the startup resistor, blowing it as well as other components. I
had a TV like this - the real problem was a bad solder joint at a pin on the flyback. Thus, erratic problems,
especially where they are power or deflection related, should not be ignored!
Bad solder joints are very common in TVs and monitors due both to poor quality manufacturing as well as
to deterioration of the solder bond after numerous thermal cycles and components running at high
temperature. Without knowing anything about the circuitry, it is usually possible to cure these problems by
locating all bad solder connections and cleaning and reseating internal connectors. The term 'cold solder
joint' strictly refers to a solder connection that was either not heated enough during manufacturing, was
cooled too quickly, or where part pins were moved before the solder had a chance to solidify. A similar
situation can develop over time with thermal cycling where parts are not properly fastened and are
essentially being held in by the solder alone. Both situations are most common with the pins of large
components like transformers, power transistors and power resistors, and large connectors. The pins of the
components have a large thermal mass and may not get hot enough during manufacturing. Also, they are
relatively massive and may flex the connection due to vibration or thermal expansion and contraction.
To locate cold solder joints, use a strong light and magnifier and examine the pins of large components for
hairline cracks in the solder around the pin. Gently wiggle the component if possible (with the power off).
Any detectable movement at the joint indicates a problem. With the power on, gently prod the circuit
board and suspect components with an insulated tool to see if the problem can be effected.
When in doubt, resolder any suspicious connections. Some monitors may use double sided circuit boards
which do not have plated through holes. In these cases, solder both top and bottom to be sure that the
connections are solid. Use a large enough soldering iron to assure that your solder connection is solid. Put
a bit of new solder with flux on every connection you touch up even if there was plenty of solder there
before.
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Which color is affected may be even more obvious if the set has a color on-screen display for which you
recall the proper colors.
If gently whacking the set can make the color(s) come and go suddenly, then bad connections are
probable. The most likely place for these are solder pads on the little circuit board on the neck of
the CRT or even dirty CRT socket pins that are not making solid contact. Try prodding the CRT
neck board with an insulated stick to see if you can affect the colors.
Although not impossible, this is not likely to be a CRT problem.
If the color fades in and out with a delay of about 10-15 seconds, it is probably intermittent power
to the CRT filament for that color and probably means a bad CRT since the three filaments are
wired in parallel inside the CRT. One of the internal connections has come loose.
Look in the neck of the CRT to make sure all three filaments are glowing orange. If one is out or
goes on and off, toss the set. Replacing the CRT is probably not worth it. However, if they all go on
and off together (all colors would be fading in and out though perhaps not quite in unison), then bad
connections for the CRT filaments on the CRT neck board are indicated.
To narrow down the problem:
Locate the output for the bad color on the video driver board on the neck of the CRT. This will
probably read a significantly higher voltage than the corresponding pins for the good colors. A
circuit problem is likely - probably on this board.
Test components on this board for the good and bad color channels. A shorted transistor or open
resistor can kill one channel. Swap parts between good and bad colors to confirm.
Gently pull the CRT neck board off of the CRT and replace it. This will tend to clean the contacts.
Connect an output of the video/chroma circuit/chip that is working (i.e., a color that appears on the
screen) to *all* three color drivers on the CRT neck board.
If you now get a more-or-less black and white picture (there may be a moderate color tint as
the relative intensities of R,G,B may not be balanced), the problem is likely with the chroma
decoder or its support circuitry.
Note: the picture will be the intensity of only one color channel so it will not be quite
*normal* in any case.
If you still have missing or messed up colors, the problem is on the CRT neck board or with
the CRT.
Most of the causes of intermittent colors boil down to bad connections of one form or another. For totally
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Where all colors are involved - the lines are essentially white or gray (or with a slight tint due to slight
unequal settings of the color adjustments), look for something common like an incorrectly adjusted screen
(G2) or master brightness/background/bias control or a problem in one of these circuits, a defective power
supply or a problem in the blanking circuitry:
Screen (G2) or master brightness/background/bias control - mark setting and then see if a slight
adjustment removes the retrace lines. See the chapter: "TV Adjustments". Of course, if this
happened suddenly, the problem is not due to a misadjusted control though a dirty pot is possible turn it back and forth - this might clean it and restore normal operation.
Power supply or connection to CRT neck board - insufficient voltage will result in the CRT never
totally blanking. Check (usually scan derived) power supply components (from flyback).
General power supply - check B+ for correct value and ripple. A main power supply fault might
result in these symptoms (and usually many others).
Blanking circuit - this may be a part of the video/chroma chip or separate. Check waveforms to
determine if the blanking pulses are making it to the video output.
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electrons weren't even coming from the cathode. That was with only the picture tube in a test rig. So in
this case the obvious conclusion had to be that the tube was bad, and it was replaced (32" 16:9 SF, very
$$). It had something to do with processing problems during manufacturing of the electron guns.
So even if this was a rare case, it *can* happen that retrace lines are due to a bad picture tube. It's more
usual to suspect the VG2 (screen voltage) or a defect somewhere in the RGB video path.
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green drive and the green cathode with red drive. (Note that if this problem only occurs after a warmup
period, color at turn on will be - well - wierd, but it is just a test.)
If the symptom returns = 'goes red' the CRT is shorting. (See the section: Providing isolation for a
CRT H-K short. --- sam)
If instead the symptom becomes 'goes green' then the red drive leg has the fault and the CRT is
probably good. (In this case, there may be bad connections or a bad component on the CRT drive
board or further back in the chroma circuitry. --- sam)
Shorts in a CRT
Occasionally, small conductive flakes or whiskers present since the day of manufacture manage to make
their way into a location where they short out adjacent elements in the CRT electron guns. Symptoms may
be intermittent or only show up when the TV or monitor is cold or warm or in-between. Some possible
locations are listed below:
Heater to cathode (H-K). The cathode for the affected gun will be pulled to the heater (filament)
bias voltage - most often 0 V (signal ground). In this case, one color will be full on with retrace
lines. Where the heater is biased at some other voltage, other symptoms are possible like reduced
brightness and/or contrast for that color. This is probably the most common location for a short to
occur.
Cathode to control grid (K-G1). Since the G1 electrodes for all the guns are connected together, this
will affect not only the color of the guilty cathode but the others as well. The result may be a very
bright overloaded *negative* picture with little, none, or messed up colors.
Control grid to screen (G1-G2). Depending on circuitry can result in any degree of washed out or
dark picture.
Screen to focus (G2-F). Screen (G2) and focus voltage will be the same and the controls on the
flyback will interact. Result will be a fuzzy white raster with retrace lines and little or very low
contrast picture. Symptoms will be similar to those of a flyback with breakdown in the focus/screen
divider network.
Focus to high voltage (F-HV). High voltage will be pulled down - probably arcing at the focus spark
gaps/other protective devices. Line fuse and/or HOT may blow. A high impedance short may only
result in increased focus voltage but this is probably unusual.
Other locations between electron gun elements as feed wires.
Except for the high voltage to other places, the short may actually be located in the CRT *socket* or even
on the CRT neck board, probably in the spark gap(s) for the problem pins. Remove the socket and test
between the suspect pins on the CRT itself. If the CRT itself is fine, the spark gaps should be inspected
and cleaned/repaired and/or components replaced. At this point, the cause may still be present - a short
inside the flyback for example resulting in excessive voltage on one or more pins.
Assuming this is not the case, replacing the CRT may be the best solution but there are a variety of
'techniques' that can often be used to salvage a TV that would otherwise end up in the dump since
replacing a CRT is rarely cost effective:
1. Isolation - this will usually work for H-K shorts as long as only one gun is involved.
2. Blowing out the short with a capacitor - depending on what is causing the short, this may be
successful but will require some experimentation.
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3. Placing the CRT (TV or monitor) face down on a soft blanket and *gently* tapping the neck to
dislodge the contamination. Depending on the location of the short, one side or the other might be
better as well. Sometimes, this can be done in-place while watching the picture.
A combination of (2) and (3) may be required for intermittent shorts which don't appear until under
power. See the sections below for additional details. However, for shorts involving the focus and high
voltage elements, even a sharp edge can result in arcing even if there is no actual short. There is no
remedy for these types of faults.
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hundred volts. Check to see if the short is blown after each zap - few may be needed. Increase the
capacitance if you fell lucky but have had little success with the small capacitor.
If the fault is intermittent, you will, of course, need to catch the CRT with the socket disconnected and the
short still present. Try some gentle tapping if necessary. If you do this with the charged capacitor across
the suspect electrode, you **will** know when the short occurs!
Also see the section: High voltage to focus short.
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With the CRT neck board plugged into the CRT, the focus spark gap is likely arcing.
With the socket unplugged, putting anything connected to ground (or any other circuitry) near the
focus pin would result in a juicy spark or arc. WARNING: Removing the CRT socket and powering
the set may destroy the CRT on some models. See the section: Warning about disconnecting CRT
neck board.
If the CRT is gassy or up to air, forget it - it might make a decent fish tank :-). In this case, there would be
visible arcing INSIDE the CRT probably not confined to a single location.
However, if there is just a metal whisker between the F and HV, that might be able to be cleared by careful
tapping or a charged capacitor. You may even be able to see it if you were to remove the yoke - the gap is
pretty large, about 1-2 mm - the last gap between electrodes before the start of the internal (Dag) coating.
See the section: Rescuing a shorted CRT.
Note that other damage may have been done as
Other components including the flyback, HOT, and parts on the CRT neck board and beyond, may have
been damaged as a result of the short. Zapping the CRT may be just the beginning of what is required to
repair it all.
Dark picture
A TV or monitor with a picture that is too dark may have a fault or the CRT may just be near the end of its
useful life.
First, confirm that your video source - computer, camera, etc. - is producing a proper signal.
Is the brightness at all erratic? Does whacking the monitor have any effect? If so, then you may have bad
connections on the CRT driver card or elsewhere. If the brightness tends to fade in and out over a 10 to 20
second period, a bad filament connection is likely. Check for the normal orange glow of the filaments in
the neck of the CRT. There should be 3 orange glows. If they are excessively reddish, very dim, or fade in
and out, you have located a problem. See the section: Picture fades in and out.
Common causes of brightness problems:
0. Dirty CRT faceplate or safety glass. Don't laugh. It sounds obvious, but have you tried cleaning the
screen with suitable screen cleaner? It is amazing how dirty screens can get after a few years especially around smokers!
Wipe gently with a slightly dampened cloth - not soaking or you may end up with real problems
when the water drips down inside and hits the electronics! On TVs with a separate protective
faceplate, clean both the front and rear surfaces of this plate as well as the CRT itself.
1. Old CRT. The brightness of the CRT deteriorates with on-time. It does not matter much how bright
your run your TV. An indication of a weak CRT would be that turning up the SCREEN (G2) or
master brightness control only results in a not terribly bright gray raster before the retrace lines
show up. There may be indications of poor focus and silvery highlights as well. A CRT brightener
may help. See the section: Brightening an old CRT.
2. Bad component in filament circuit or bad connection reducing filament voltage. This should be easy
to check - there are only a few parts involved. If it is erratic, bad connections are likely.
3. Brightness control faulty - bad pot, bad connections, or problem with its power supply. Depending
on specific problem, control may or may not have any effect. If digitally adjusted, there could be a
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problem with the logic or control chip. If the button or menu item has no effect at all, then a logic or
control problem is likely.
4. Improperly set SCREEN (G2) voltage (usually on flyback) or faulty divider network. See the
section: Adjustment of the internal SCREEN and color controls.
5. Improperly set video bias (background) levels or fault in video drive circuitry. See the sections
starting with: "Optimal procedure for setting brightness/background and screen adjustments".
6. Fault in video amplifiers. With all three color affected equally, this would most likely be a power
supply problem. A video amplifier problem is likely if turning up the SCREEN (G2) or master
brightenss control results in a very bright raster before the retrace lines appear. Cheack signals out
of the video/chroma(IC.
7. Fault in beam or brightness limiter. Many TVs and monitors measure the beam current (possibly
indirectly) and limit the maximum to a safe value. The purpose of this may be to protect the CRT
phosphors, and/or to assure that the power supply does not go out of regulation, and/or to limit
X-ray emission. If this circuit screws up, a dark picture may result. Checking the signals and
voltages at the CRT socket should determine if this is the problem.
8. High voltage is low. However, this would likely result in other symptoms as well with focus, size,
and geometry.
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repair shop may be able to provide this service, though it is, at best, a short term fix.
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for it.
Bleeding highlights
On very bright areas of the picture, one or more colors may bleed to the right resulting in a trail of those
colors. The difference between this problem and the section: Trailing lines in one or more colors is that in
this case, only highlights are affected.
One cause of this is that the color gain, contrast, or intensity controls (whatever they are called on your
set) are set too high. See the section on: "Color balance adjustment". Check the settings of any brightness
limiter controls as well.
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See if objects on left side of the screen are stretched compared to those on the right (or vice-versa).
If they are, the problem is in the horizontal deflection circuits - possibly a bad S correction capacitor
or linearity coil.
Inoperative degauss circuit, TV moved or rotated without degaussing, or magnetic field from some
other device (like a permanent magnet) is affecting CRT - slight amounts of magnetization may
reduce brightness (by moving the beams into the black space between phosphor dots) before
affecting color purity (where the beams land on the wrong phosphor dots).
Try deguassing manually. See the section: Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT.
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Excessive brightness/washed out picture is often an indication of a problem with the screen (G2)
supply to the CRT. May be a bad capacitor or resistor divider often in the flyback transformer
assembly or on the board on the neck of the CRT.
If the excessive brightness just developed over time, then a simple adjustment of the screen or
background brightness controls may keep it (and you) happy for a long time.
When good, a typical value would be in the 200 to 600 VDC at the CRT. The screen (it may also be
called master brightness, bias, or background) control should vary this voltage. However, it may be
difficult to measure as the resistors in the voltage divider network may be quite large - hundreds of
M ohms. If your unit has an external screen control (less likely these days) and it has no effect,
trace out the circuitry in the immediate vicinity and check the resistors and potentiometer for opens,
look for bad connections, etc. If it is built into the flyback transformer and is sealed, the entire
flyback will need to be replaced unless the actual problem turns out to be a bad connection or bad
component external to the flyback.
Where the brightness control has no effect, suspect a missing bias supply to the G1 (control grid)
electrodes of the CRT. This is usually derived from the flyback with a simple rectifier/filter
capacitor power supply. Parts may have failed (though not likely the flyback itself). Adjusting the
user brightness control should vary this voltage over a typical range of 0 to -50 V with respect to
signal ground.
It could also be a problem with biasing of the video output transistors. There may individual controls
for background brightness on the little board on the neck of the CRT. However, we are looking for a
common problem since all colors are wrong in the same way. This is likely to be a missing voltage
from a secondary supply from the flyback.
A short between electrodes inside the CRT can result in brightness problems. It may be possible to
check this with an ohmmeter with the power off and the CRT socket removed. Test between G1,
G2, and F where all colors are affected though a short between F and G2 will result in the focus
control changing brightness and vice-versa - a classic symptom.
However, in some cases, it only shows up when operating and one must deduce the presense and
location of the short from its affect on voltages and bias levels.
See the section: Rescuing a shorted CRT and other related topics.
First, check for bad connections/cold solder joints by gently prodding with an insulating stick. Check
voltages and bias levels.
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The focus wire usually comes from the flyback or if the general area or from a terminal on a voltage
multiplier module in some cases. It is usually a wire by itself going to the little board on the neck of the
CRT.
If a sparkgap (a little 2 terminal device with a 1/8" gap in the middle) is arcing with power on, then the
resistive divider has shorted inside the flyback, focus board, or HV multiplier - whatever you TV has - and
the this unit will need to be replaced. Ditto if the SCREEN control affects focus and/or vice-versa.
Using a suitable high voltage meter (range at least 10 kVDC, 1000 M ohm or greater input impedance),
you should be able to measure it connected and disconnected. The ground return will be the outside
coating of the CRT which may or may not be the same as the metal chassis parts. If the voltage is very low
(less than 2 kV) or too high and the pot has little effect:
When measured right off of the source disconnected from the CRT neck board, then the problem is
probably in the focus network in the flyback (or wherever it originates). Sometimes these can be
disassembled and cleaned or repaired but usually requires replacement of the entire flyback or
voltage multiplier. Note: you may need to add a HV (10 kV) capacitor between the focus wire and
DAG ground to provide filtering so you get a DC level for your meter.
When measured with the focus wire attached to the CRT neck board with the CRT connected but
reasonable with the CRT unplugged, there is probably a short between the focus and another
electrode inside the CRT. See the section: Rescuing a shorted CRT.
When measured with the focus wire attached to the CRT neck board with the CRT unplugged, there
is likely a component on the CRT neck board that is leaky or breaking down. Also, check for
decayed (tan or brown) glue which may turn leaky with age.
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flyback with the focus pot can be snapped off and cleaned or parts replaced but usually you need to
replace the whole unit. There may a capacitor or two on the PCB on the neck of the CRT that could
have increased leakage as well thus reducing the focus voltage.
To determine if the CRT is the problem, for sharp focus after the unit has warmed up. Power-off for
an hour or so and carefully pull the CRT neck board off of the CRT. Then, power up the unit. Let it
run long enough such that there would have been a detectable focus drift. Now, power-down, plug
the CRT neck board back in, and power-up. Watch the image as it appears on the screen:
If the focus starts out fuzzy and sharpens up as the image appears and gradually becomes
sharper as the CRT warms up the CRT is likely tired.
The only catch here is that plugging the CRT neck board into the CRT results in an additional
load on the flyback due to the picture beam current which heats it more as well. Thus, if the
problem takes a few minutes to appear, keep the brightness turned down except to check the
appearance of the picture from time to time.
You can set the focus control for optimum when warmed up and just turn the TV on in well in
advance of your favorite shows or add a user focus adjustment by drilling a hole in the plastic
case for an *insulated* screwdriver or flyback focus knob extender :-). The CRT may
continue to function for quite a while so this is not impending doom.
If the focus is relatively stable as the image appears and increases in brightness *and* is about
as sharp as it would be with the TV warmed up, the problem is most likely in the flyback.
However, also check for bad components or decayed (tan or brown) glue on the CRT neck
board. A drifting flyback will need to be replaced as it will probably get worse and fail
completely. Clean the surface of the circuit board and CRT socket in the vicinity of the focus
and screen terminals and traces. Contamination or just dirt and grime can easily cause
problems especially on humid days since the resistance of these circuits is extremely high
(100s of M ohms).
If the focus is relatively stable as the image appears and increases in brightness *and* is
similar to what it would be with the monitor cold, you have a very strange situation where
some load on the high voltage power supply, perhaps, is causing a thermal problem. This
would be rare.
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rhetorical question: What happens to the screen voltage when the focus pot is adjusted?
I have seen sockets that had no arching or other telltale signs, leak through the plastic housing to ground
out the focus voltage.
Look closely at the screen. If the blurring is in the form of small circles, then you have an open or
hi-resistance focus electrode inside the tube. The circles may vary in visibility with brightness.
If you still haven't found the problem, try to confirm that this is truly a focus problem. Remove the CRT
socket and observe the hi-voltage. If it climbs more than about 1k, say all the way up to 25 kV, then you
may have a beam current problem rather than a focus problem. In that case re-check all CRT board
voltages. WARNING: Removing the CRT socket and powering the set may destroy the CRT on some
models. See the section: Warning about disconnecting CRT neck board.
If you have done all of the above and removing the socket makes no change in the high voltage, then try
to determine why the high voltage is low.
Watch the screen as the brightness, contrast, or screen control are adjusted. See if you can observe any
signs of blooming. When the IHVT doesn't provide enough current to satisfy the demands of the tube for
current, the the picture tends to appear to expand like a balloon. i.e., bloom. This can be caused by not
enough drive to the IHVT. Carefully monitor the b+ to the horizontal drive stages to see that is is stable
and correct.
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No or low high voltage (low voltage, deflection, or high voltage power supply failure).
Fault with other voltages like G1 or screen (G2) to CRT.
Filament to CRT not getting powered.
Drive to CRT bad/shut off as a result of fault elsewhere. For example, failure of the vertical
deflection may disable HV or blank the screem to protect the CRT from burn-in due to the very
bright horizontal line that would result. With some sets, it is possible that the X-ray protection
circuitry will blank the screen without affecting tuning or audio.
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Possible causes of no video (but a good raster): Problem in video IF, video amplifiers, video output, cutoff
due to other fault.
It could be as simple as a bad connection - try gently prodding the boards with an insulated stick while
watching the screen. Check for loose connectors and reseat all internal connectors.
Magnet fix for purity problems - if duct tape works, use it!
The approach below will work for slight discoloration that cannot be eliminated through degaussing.
However, following the procedures in the section: CRT purity adjustment would be the preferred solution.
On the other hand, the magnets may be quick and easy. And, where CRT has suffered internal distortion
or dislocation of the shadowmask, adjustments may not be enough.
In any case, first, relocate those megablaster loudspeakers and that MRI scanner with the superconducting
magnets.
The addition of some moderate strength magnets carefully placed to reduce or eliminate purity problems
due to a distorted or dislocated shadowmask may be enough to make the TV usable - if not perfect. The
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type of magnets you want are sold as 'refrigerator magnets' and the like for sticking up notes on steel
surfaces. These will be made of ferrite material (without any steel) and will be disks, rectangles, flexible
strips. Experiment with placement using masking tape to hold them in place temporarily. Degauss
periodically to evaluate the status of your efforts. Then, make the 'repair' permanent using duct tape or
silicone sealer or other household adhesive.
Depending on the severity of the purity problem, you may need quite a few magnets! However, don't get
carried away and use BIG speaker or magnetron magnets - you will make the problems worse.
Also note that unless the magnets are placed near the front of the CRT, very significant geometric
distortion of the picture will occur - which may be a cure worse than the disease.
WARNING: Don't get carried away while positioning the magnets - you will be near some pretty nasty
voltages!
(From: Mr. Caldwell ([email protected]).)
I ended up with the old 'stuck on a desert island trick':
I duck taped 2 Radio Shack magnets on the case, in such a way as to pull the beam back.!!!!
A $2 solution to a $200 problem. My friend is happy as heck.
RCA sells magnets to correct corner convergence, they are shaped like chevrons and you stick them in the
'right' spot on the rear of the CRT.
(From: Tom Sedlemyer ([email protected]).)
First set purity as best you can.
Obtain some pieces of refrigerator door magnet strips from an appliance repair shop (they usually have
some lying around).
Cut the strips into 1 inch pieces. Place a strip as on the bell of the picture tube as close to the yoke as
possible and in line with the corner that has the purity error. Rotate the magnet until you correct the purity
error and tape it in place. Multiple magnet strips can be used and you may experiment with the size of the
strips for best effect. It is very important that the strips are positioned close to the yoke or the effect will
not hold. The only drawback to this method is some very slight distortion of the geometry of the raster, but
it beats hell out of paying for a new CRT.
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RF Interference on TV
"I have interference lines on my TV - they are particularly heavy on 2, not so prominent on 9
- one TV is on Radio Shack Color Supreme 100 (souped up rabbit ears), other is on a roof top
antenna, both have coax from antenna to TV. I have HAM operator two doors away. Is there
an FAQ on interference - if so where. How do I need to describe the interference pattern in
order to seek help. Thanks."
The FCC had an online interference handbook, with color photos showing how different types of
interference affect a TV's picture. Unfortunatley, this has vanished from the FCC Web site but is now on
the Kyes TV Web site:
FCC TV Interference Handbook
(From: Andrew Mitchell ([email protected]).)
Probably the easiest solution is to visit your ham neighbor and describe your difficulty. Amateur radio
operators are licensed by federal governments (FCC) and are required as part of their examination to
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demonstrate a knowledge of this type of interference. It may well be that the ham is not the source of the
problem and even if this is the case I'm sure he or she will be of assistance.
(From: Alan N. Alan, WDBJ-TV, KM4IG ([email protected]).)
OK, as a HAM myself, I can understand this. Channel 2 is the lowest TV channel, right above the six
meter band, 50-54 Mhz. Channel 9 is well into VHF above 175 Mhz. It is possible that your neighbor
operates 6 meters.
I would talk to him. First, the chances are it is YOUR equipment, and his is legal and meets FCC specs.
But I would be willing to bet he will be very cooperative to help you solve your interference.
The thing to do is talk to him, calmly, and tell him about your problem. Then, schedule a time where he
can transmit his gear and see if your problem exists along with his transmissions.. If it does, you can go
from there. Many ham clubs have many engineers and radio and TV people in their memberships that will
jump in and help you solve your problem. Again, he is probably legal, and consumer equipment is not
known for it's RF resistance. Consumer manufacturers cut corners wherever they can. This includes
filtering and design.
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the rf input on a single TV, then watch it for a few of days. If the problem re-occurs call the cable guy and
show him what you have done and explain the problem again.
Put yourself in the shoes of the cable guy. He comes into a house with VCR's and all the gadgets we all
have hooked up to our TV's with lines running all over the house, and can't get to the back of the TV to
see what's there, and he's not a TV repair guy anyway and nobody else in the neighborhood is complaining
and this problem may happen when it rains but it may not. mmmhhh
If it does not show up on the single TV, then the problem is probably yours. Add one device at a time until
you find the trouble maker. Start with the your Cable AMPLIFIER.
(From: 4real ([email protected]).)
You eliminate all of the other junk attached between your main cable input to your house and your TV to
be sure it isn't the cause.
You will definitely want to suspect a problem with the amplifier you have installed. Especially if it is one
of those cheap ones. Usually when the filter capacitor in an amplifier goes bad it will cause the hum bars
you are describing, and they can be intermittent. Another problem may be that you have too much signal
going into the amplifier. Amps are rated to handle a certain amount of input signal (measured in db)
depending on the number of channels you wish to amplify, and the gain provided by the amp. If you try to
feed an amplifier with too much signal it will overdrive it and cause a venetian blind, or herringbone
effect. It could also be possible that the cable company is supplying a signal with reverse tilt. That means
more signal on the lower channels and less on the higher ones. The lower channels might be the ones
overdriving the amplifier. The only way to tell for sure is to measure it with a signal level meter. (very
expensive unless you happen to be in the business and have one handy) If this is the case (too much signal
going in) you probably don't need the amplifier to feed only 2 TVs.
The last thing I can think of and the cable guy should have checked this: They use 60 VAC on their main
trunk lines to power their line amplifiers. The taps which feed the individual houses are supposed to
prevent this ac from going to the individual lines. Occasionally one of these devices fails or a line guy
forgets to pull a fuse and hence the ac gets sent to your TV. It won't necessarily fry your TV but can cause
problems. It may even damage the TV tuners that are connected to that feed. In most cases if you touch
the center conductor of the cable and a good ground you can feel the ac. It isn't enough to hurt you but
you will definitely know it's there. To be on the safe side you should test it with a volt meter.
(From: Cliff R. ([email protected]).)
My guess would be your cable amplifier. The fact that you see TWO bars on your screen tells me that it's
120 Hz interference - the frequency caused by ailing full wave power supplies used in these amps. Take
the amp out of the line for a few days. If you don't have "snow" in the picture with it out, s...can it! If you
find it was bad and can't live without it, you might try making sure all your internal cable, splitters, and
connections are good quality & in good shape. Radio Shack stuff......well, it stinks! You can purchase
primo splitters & cable from your cable company and its not that expensive. Certainly cheaper than an
amp (which you might not need if the cabling were up to snuff).
You could also cry to the cable company for more signal into your house. This may or may not work but
it's worth a shot.
I would put an amp in line only as a LAST resort. Most of the inexpensive amps sold are......cheap. They
can easily cause more trouble than they cure. If you must, go with a primo unit from Blonder-Tongue or
Jerrold.
(From: Charles Hope ([email protected]).)
It sounds very like a problem that I had and solved.
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Cause: Modern TV sets antenna connector does not have true earth on the screen but is at a potential of
half mains supply. It is possible to draw about 30 micro-amps from this.
Hum bars are induced in the amplifier because there is a small resistance in the earth path between output
and input giving about 1 volt drop of this stray mains signal. Worse when raining because the cable ground
is better then.
Solution: Either ground the antenna screen or fit a "braid breaker" in the screen.
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1. Quartz tuner (10 button direct access digital synthesizer) - For a slight drift, a component is
probably changing value, possibly the crystal in the reference oscillator. For gross changes - flipping
through channels - it is more likely to be a digital control problem - the microcontroller is
misdirecting the synthesizer to change frequency.
2. Varactor tuner (buttons but not direct channel access) - If only a single pushbutton selection is the
problem, the the varactor tuning diode for that button is probably changing capacitance. If all
channels in a band (Vl, Vh, U) are having a problem, it is more likely to be a drifting D/A or faulty
AFT (Automatic Fine Tuning) circuit or power supply.
3. Turret or switch tuner (Knobs) - A component like a capacitor is changing value.
You will have to get in there with a heat gun or cold spray and track it down the old fashioned way. At
least, the problem is almost certainly localized to the tuner box (and possibly the controller if applicable).
As noted, gradual slight changes in tuning are likely due to frequency determining components drifting.
Uncontrolled channel surfing is probably a logic problem. For the quartz tuner, this could still be marginal
connections causing the microprocessor to misdirect the synthesizer to change channels.
For the latter case, particularly, the cause may still be bad connections resulting in loss of channel memory
and/or erratic behavior.
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1. Strip the outer sheath of the cable to expose the braid and *fold the braid* away from the end so
that it covers the unstripped outer braid.
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EM or RFI hell?
"About a mile from my home there are four TV (channels 2, 4, 9 and 14) and several
broadcast FM transmitters, all working with powers in the 100+ Kw ERP class.
Radio reception is a nightmare, mostly (I think) because of IM products in overloaded front
end stages. In most bands there are several regions at a spacing of about 100 Khz, each 30 to
40 Khz wide with a harsh buzz stronger than anything else."
(From: Don Klipstein ([email protected]).)
If the buzz is of a frequency like the power line frequency or a harmonic thereof, then the nearby
transmitters may not be the culprit. Instead, nearby corona on a high voltage power line, a nearby neon
sign, or a nearby light dimmer may be the offender. Although the noise from these is usually broad-band,
the noise could get concentrated into bands spaced 100 kHz apart if something resonant around 100 kHz
is involved in the noise production.
I would try temporarily turning off all fluorescent lights, neon signs, lights with dimmers, etc. and asking
your neighbors to do the same to see if any of these is the offender. I have often found light dimmers to be
major RF noise sources.
Possibly, an RF noise filter for the AC power for your receiver may help things. If you isolate a single
offending appliance, it may help to plug it into an RF noise filter. If you use any filters with either the
offending appliance or the receiver, try all combinations of plug reversal to see what works best. Both
leads of any offending appliance may not equally spew noise, and both lines in the filter may not equally
block noise. Both lines of the receiver's power cord may not equally bring noise into the receiver, if this is
the route the noise takes.
Audio Problems
Picture fine, no audio
First check that any muting control is not activated. This might be a button on the remote or set itself. If
you have a headphone jack, it may have dirty contacts as plugging in a headphone usually mutes the
speaker.
If the set is mono or only one channel of a stereo set is out, then check for bad connections to the
loudspeaker. Test the loudspeaker by disconnecting one of the wires (with the power off!) and measuring
its resistance with an ohmmeter (it should be less than 100 ohms - probably less than 8 ohms). Or
momentarily touch a 1.5 volt battery to the speaker terminals - you should get a click or pop from the
speaker.
Next, trace back from the speaker output terminals to the circuit board and look for bad solder
connections or a loose or dirty connector.
If these tests do not reveal anything, you probably need a scope (or audio signal tracer) and schematic. Or
at least the part number off of the chip. Is the final amp a chip also or just a transistor? Have you tested
the transistor? If there is little or no buzz from the speaker, that would indicate a problem fairly near the
output. If the tuner/if were bad, I would expect some noise/humm pickup from the low level audio stages.
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Get the part number off of the chip. If it is in a socket, check the contacts for corrosion or looseness.
Buzzing TV
Do you actually mean buzz - low frequency as in 60 Hz? Or, do you really mean high pitched whine. If the
latter, see the section: High pitched whine or squeal from TV with no other symptoms. Or, it may be a
combination of both effects. Is the buzz through the speaker or from the inside of the set?
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If it is the speaker, then it is a problem with the audio circuitry. This could be a design issue - very
common or an actual fault (if it wasn't there before). It could also be interference caused by
fluorescent lights or appliances like vacuum cleaners with universal motors or body massagers with
vibrator interrupters (which generate sparks).
Where the source of the problem cannot be located or eliminated, consider using a (HiFi) VCR for
the tuner with an external stereo amplifier and the disable the internal speaker.
There is a slight possibility that the AC power in your house has some harmonic content - the
waveform is not sinusoidal. This might be the case if you try to run on the same circuit as an active
dimmer or something else with thyristor control. Proximity to heavy industry could also cause this.
Relocating the offending device to another branch circuit may help. You could also try a line
conditioner (not just surge suppressor) which includes filtering. Or, use a HiFi VCR as your audio
source (see above). Else, petition to have that metal foundry move out of the neighborhood :-).
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However, a buzzing that only occurs when the picture has sharply defined text or graphics, may be
an overload problem at the source - some TVs simply handle it better than others.
If it is a fault in the TV, an adjustment to the tuner or IF may be needed.
(From: Paul Weber ([email protected]).)
Not to disparage proponents of the evil demon theory, but the phenomenon is more commonly
known as "sync buzz". It is caused by poor performance in the TV's audio circuitry. It can usually be
fixed by (1) reducing the signal strength and/or (2) tweaking the sound IF coil. Unfortunately, some
of the latest TV receivers have no sound IF coil to adjust. If your TV has a sound IF coil, it can be
done by ear, if you don't care about sound quality. However,I'd recommend taking it so a competent
shop and describing the symptoms. Use the term "sync buzz in the audio," and they'll know what
you mean. Be advised that it can't be cured in some TVs due to poor design.
If it is from inside the set (and not from the speaker), it is in the deflection (probably vertical) or
power supply. Either of these can vary in severity with picture content due to the differing current
requirements based on brightness. It could be a power supply transformer, deflection yoke, or other
magnetic component. Even ferrite beads have been caught buzzing when no one was looking :-).
Any of these parts could vibrate if not anchored securely or as they loosen up with age.
On TVs that can be switched to "letterbox" mode, a reduction in the intensity of the buzz would
help to confirm this diagnosis since the amplitude of the vertical deflection is smaller.
Some hot-melt glue, RTV silicone, or even a strategically wedged toothpick may help. A new part
may or may not quiet it down - the replacement could be worse!
See the section: Reducing/eliminating yoke noise.
Some TVs are simply poorly designed. You cannot infer the severity of this annoyance from any
specifications available to the consumer. It is strictly a design (e.g. cost) issue. The size of the TV is
not a strong indicator of the severity of the problem but there will be some relationship as the power
levels are higher for larger sets. The best you can do is audition various TVs very carefully to find
one that you are satisfied with.
BTW, when I got my new super-duper RCA Colortrak in 1980, it had a similar annoying buzz - even had a
repair guy out who behaved as though this was to be expected. I did get used to it and am not even aware
of it today - and still use that set.
Additional comments:
(From: Karen ([email protected]).)
Also for some audio buzz problems especially in the older units don't overlook the possibility of a
misaligned trap. or a touch-up of the sound discriminator may prove helpful.
(From: Alan ([email protected]).)
If the buzz is coming from the speaker suspect a bad saw filter in the if circuit (very common).
If it is coming from elsewhere in the set it could be the flyback transformer, line input choke, or most
common on those sets - the deflection yoke. I have repaired many of these yoke by using a wooden shim
and some silicone rubber. In the collar of the yoke just ahead of the lock down clamp, there are some
metal strips under the plastic. These are magnet that are used for convergence correction at the top and
bottom of the picture. If you disturb them too much it will throw off the convergence.
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Chattering yoke
This is a special case of buzzing originating from the deflection yoke.
(From: John Del ([email protected]).)
I am assuming your talking about a NAP yoke made by Panasonic/Quasar also used by them as well. The
vibration comess from the metal shunt inside the yoke which is used for "self convergence". The shunts
were held by a mastic material that breaks down into a powdery substance.
Remove the yoke from the tube and bore a small hole in the plastic on both halves (top and bottom).
These holes will be at the 12 and 6 positions, as the 3 and 9 will have windings visible. Fill the holes with
white glue and let the glue settle in, rotating the yoke as it does. The glue will soak into the powdery
material and harden it. You will have to do this several times until the glue oozes out near the clamp. Give
it a full day to dry. This is better than paying $60 to $80 for the yoke.
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Using appropriate safety precautions, you can try prodding the various suspect parts (flyback,
deflection yoke, other transformers), even lowly ferrite beads, with an insulated tool such as a dry
wooden stick. Listen through a cardboard tube to try to localizing the source. If the sounds changes,
you know what part to go after.
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Once you have located the guilty party, some careful repositioning, a strategically wedged wooden
toothpick, or a dab of RTV silicone or hot-melt glue may keep it quiet. Where the yoke is the guilty
party, see the section: Reducing/eliminating yoke noise.
It is possible to coat the flyback transformer, but this is used mostly when there a loose core or
windings and you are getting not only the 15,735 Hz horizontal (NTSC) but also various
subharmonics of this. This is probably acceptable but may increase the temperature of the flyback.
A replacement flyback (or whatever part) may cure the problem unless it is a design flaw or
manufacturing quality problem. However, the replacement part could be noisier. You really do not
want to replace the yoke (aside from the cost) as convergence and other service adjustments would
need to be performed. Other transformers can be replaced.
Note that the deflection frequency - just over 15 kHz for NTSC and PAL - is on the border of audible for
adults but will likely be loud to younger people possibly to the point of being terribly annoying - or worse.
If you are over 40 (men more so than women), you may not be able to hear the fundamental at all (at least
you can look forward to silence in the future!). So, even sending the TV back for repair may be hopeless if
the technician cannot hear what you are complaining about!
BTW, if you have a really old tube type TV, the power tubes (damper and horizontal output) can also
whine but these sets are few and far between these days :-).
Miscellaneous Problems
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The rate will be the difference between the power line frequency (60 Hz in the U.S.) and the scan
rate (59.94 Hz for NTSC). This results in a drift of about 16 seconds for a complete cycle (8 seconds
if the inteference is at 120 Hz).
A single bar would indicate interference at the power line frequency.
A pair of bars would indicate interference at twice the power line frequency.
Either of these are possible.
Try to locate the problem device by turning off all suspect equipment to see if the problem
disappears.
The best solution is to replace or repair the offending device. In the case of a light dimmer, for
example, models are available that do a better job of suppressing interference than the typical $3
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home center special. Appliances are supposed to include adequate noise suppression but this is not
always the case.
If the source is in the next county, this option presents some significant difficulties :-).
Plugging the TV into another outlet may isolate it from the offending device enough to eliminate or
greatly reduce the interference.
The use of a line filter may help. A surge suppressor is NOT a line filter.
Similar symptoms could also be produced by a defective power supply in the TV or other fault. The
surest way of eliminating this possibility is to try the TV at another location.
TV blows fuses or trips breakers or worse when A/V connections are made
You have sent the TV for repair and now three times, it blows something the instant anything is connected
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If this doesn't help, power down completely by pulling the plug for a few minutes. That may reset the TV's
microbrain. Else, there may actually be a failure of the circuitry that selects the closed caption. In that
case, the TV will need repair.
Advertising overload
"I noted the advertsing programs put in bright several frames of overshooting white signals in
purpose of attracting attention which I do not want also it gets on my nerves sometimes.
*flash* *flash* Ughhh! Is there a way to cutoff the "overload" or tone down that?"
(From: Jeroen H. Stessen ([email protected]).)
Technically, the TV takes care of its own overload protection. Or at least it *should*, on some TV's you
will certainly observe the line transformer going into saturation for a while. Other than that there is not
much you can do, each TV should represent its input signals with as much fidelity as possible. Change
channels?
(I already suggested not watching. :-) --- Sam.)
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TV was rained on
Was the set plugged in when the leak started? Any piece of equipment with remote power-on capability
has some portions live at all times when plugged in and so there may have been damage due to short
circuits etc. Substantial damage could be done due to short circuits.
Otherwise, you may just need to give it more time to dry out. I have had devices with keypads getting wet
that required more than a week but then were fine. There are all kinds of places for water to be trapped
and take a long time to evaporate.
If the set got wet while unplugged (in a leaky attic or wet basement), for example, or it has a pull or click
knob on/off switch, then give it time to dry out - completely. Assuming all visible water is drained, a week
represents a minimum safe time to wait. Don't rush it.
Generally, some moisture will not do any permanent damage unless the set was on in which case you will
simply have to troubleshoot it the old-fashioned way - one problem at a time.
You may be tempted to use a hair drier or heat gun to speed the process along. But, be extra careful not to
do damage to the equipment. Slightly melted laptop keyboard is an example of a bit of overkill. As far as I
know, this was due to a short exposure to a properly functioning blow drier. The owner swears that the
blow drier is not overheating and that she hasn't been able to set her hair on fire. I can just imagine what
would have happened with a real heat gun. They just don't make those keys the way they used to! :)
TV was dropped
You have probably seen the TV advertisements - I don't recall what they were for - where a late model TV
is dropped out a many story window on a bunjie cord to rebound once undamaged and without hitting a
baby in a stroller but then smash to smithereens on the sidewalk once the stroller had moved. Needless to
say, this is generally not a recommended way to treat a TV set!
However, mishaps do happen.
Assuming it survived mostly intact - the CRT didn't implode, you could still have a variety of problems.
Immediately unplug the set!
If you take it in for service, the estimate you get may make the national debt look like pocket change in
comparison. Attempting to repair anything that has been dropped is a very uncertain challenge - and since
time is money for a professional, spending an unknown amount of time on a single repair is very risky.
There is no harm is getting an estimate (though many shops charge for just agreeing that what you are
holding was once - say - a TV, or was it a fishtank?)
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This doesn't mean you should not tackle it yourself. There may be nothing wrong or very minor problems
that can easily be remedied. The following are likely possibilities:
1. Cracked circuit boards. These can be repaired since TVs usually have fairly wide open single or two
sided boards.
2. Broken circuit components. These will need to be replaced.
3. Broken solder connections particularly to large heavy components on single sided boards. Reflow
the solder. If the trace is cracked or lifted, repair as in (1).
4. Broken mounting brackets. These are usually made of cheap plastic and often don't survive very
well. Be creative. Obtaining an exact replacement is probably not worth the trouble and expense.
5. Components knocked out of line on the CRT envelope or neck - deflection yoke, purity magnets,
convergence magnets and coils, geometry correction magnets. These will need to be reattached
and/or realigned. Some CRTs use little magnets glued to the funnel portion of the CRT envelope. If
any of these have come loose, it could be quite a treat to figure out where they went and in what
orientation.
6. Internal damage to the CRT - popped or distorted shadow mask, misaligned electron guns.
Unfortunately, you will probably have no way of identifying these since you cannot see inside the
CRT. They will not be apparent until all other faults have been remedied and the TV set is
completely realigned. At that point, extremely severe purity or convergence problems that do not
respond to the normal adjustment procedure would be one indication of internal damage. Give the
TV a nice funeral. :( For a large screen TV, the effects may be even more dramatic.
If you still want to tackle a restoration:
As noted, unplug the TV even if it looks fine. Until you do a thorough internal inspection, there is no
telling what may have been knocked out of whack or broken. Electrical parts may be shorting due to a
broken circuit board or one that has just popped free. Don't be tempted to apply power even if there are
no obvious signs of damage - turning it on may blow something due to a shorting circuit board. If it is a
portable, remove the batteries.
Then, inspect the exterior for cracking, chipping, or dents. In addition to identifying cosmetic problems,
this will help to locate possible areas to check for internal damage once the covers are removed.
(At this point, most people will assume there is no interior damage and plug the set back in and turn it on.
My recommendation is to resist this temptation since as noted, this could result in further damage making
the repair more expensive if there are circuit problems. However, if the unit was on at the time of the
"incident" or you are really determined to get to the conclusion and would just throw the thing in the trash
if it doesn't work or blows up, go for it! But, if you're the more cautious type, continue with the systematic
diagnosis and repair procedure that follows.)
Next, remove the cover. Confirm that the main filter capacitors are fully discharged before touching
anything. Check for mechanical problems like a bent or deformed brackets, cracked plastic parts, and
anything that may have shifted position or jumped from its mountings. Inspect for loose parts or pieces of
parts - save them all as some critical magnets, for example, are just glued to the CRT and may have
popped off.
Carefully straighten any bent metal parts. Replace parts that were knocked loose, glue and possibly
reinforce cracked or broken plastic. Plastics, in particular, are troublesome because most glues - even
plastic cement - do not work very well. Using a splint (medical term) or sistering (construction term) to
reinforce a broken plastic part is often a good idea. Use multiple layers of Duco Cement or clear
windshield sealer and screws (sheetmetal or machine screws may be best depending on the thickness and
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type of plastic). Wood glue and Epoxy do not work well on plastic. Some brands of superglue, PVC pipe
cement, or plastic hobby cement may work depending on the type of plastic.
Inspect for any broken electronic components - these will need to be replaced. Check for blown fuses the initial impact may have shorted something momentarily which then blew a fuse.
There is always a risk that the initial impact has already fried electronic parts as a result of a momentary
short or from broken circuit traces and there will still be problems even after repairing the visible damage
and/or replacing the broken components. This is most likely if the set was actually on but most modern
TVs have some circuitry energized at all times.
Examine the circuit boards for any visible breaks or cracks. These will be especially likely at the corners
where the stress may have been greatest. If you find **any** cracks, no matter how small in the circuit
board, you will need to carefully inspect to determine if any circuit traces run across these cracks. If they
do, then there are certainly breaks in the circuitry which will need to be repaired. Circuit boards in
consumer equipment are almost never more than two layers so repair is possible but if any substantial
number of traces are broken, it will take time and patience. Do not just run over them with solder as this
will not last. Use a fine tipped low wattage soldering iron and run #22-26 gauge insulated wires between
convenient endpoints - these don't need to be directly on either side of the break. Double check each
connection after soldering for correct wiring and that there are no shorts before proceeding to the next.
If the circuit board is beyond hope or you do not feel you would be able to repair it in finite time,
replacements may be available but their cost is likely to be more than the equipment is worth. Locating a
junk unit of the same model to cannibalize for parts may be a more realistic option.
Degauss the set as any impact may magnetize the CRT. Power cycling may work but a manual degaussing
is best.
Once all visible damage has been repaired and broken parts have been replaced, power it up and see what
happens. Be prepared to pull the plug if there are serious problems (billowing smoke or fireworks would
qualify).
If there are obvious problems with color, disconnect (or disable) two of the 3 primary colors with a B/W
picture (color control turned all the way down) or solid raster displayed. If the raster is not now a pure
color, you have a CRT or CRT purity adjustment problem.
Perform any purity, convergence, or other realignment as needed.
Then proceed to address any remaining problems one at a time.
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This procedure has been applied for many monitors. I've never had any bad experiences (it's very
important to wait, until the pcbs are really dry!). Considering this experience, I just can't imagine, that it
might not be possible, to "save" a TV set or computer monitor, which has been drowned or some liquid has
been spilled, and AC has been plugged off ASAP (although I've never had such a case). I think, that in
such a case, it's important to have a rapid shower in order to prevent corrosion and deposits.
By the way: I know a German company, which uses water from cleaning PCBs of computer hardware for
cleaning them after being contaminated by smoke from a fire.
So, in case of spillage, one has nothing to loose. Just try to shower your monitor or TV set!
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Some examples follow. You would need to check the service information for your specific model to be
sure. However, trying the procedures described below probably will not hurt. The TV will just ignore you
if it doesn't like your codes! However, if you do get in, make sure you know what you are doing or your
original problem may be inconsequential compared to your new ones!
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Ferguson/Thomson Technology T49F television (TX91 chassis and probably others as well).
(From: Peter Radlberger ([email protected]).)
1. Unplug SCART cable.
2. Switch to Standby, then switch mains off.
3. Hold blue button on remote, power up.
4. Repress blue button, service screen appears.
5. Select function with blue, adjust with Vol+/-, store new value with highlighted Memo and
Vol+. Restore jumps to original value, ROM are production defaults.
6. Leave with Standby.
Some Grundig models (e.g., ST70-710):
(From: Ben ([email protected]).)
Power the set with the mains switch and at the same time hold down ?I? on the remote. This gets
you into service mode. Switch the set off with the mains switch to leave service mode.
Some Hitachi models:
(From: Kahlid Ataya ([email protected]).)
1. Turn the TV off with the main switch.
2. Press and hold the A/V button on the front panel and turn the TV on with the main switch.
3. Wait about 10 seconds and the TV will go on and service mode will appear on the screen.
Some JVC models (JA chassis):
(From: Roger Dowling ([email protected]).)
Press the DISPLAY key (may look like a small TV screen with a cross in the bottom right corner)
and the CINEMA/GAME key of the remote control simultaneously.
(From: Andy Cuffe ([email protected]).)
I have used this on JVCs from 1995:
1. Set the clock to 3:21 AM.
2. Start the clock as you normally would but press MUTE while "Thank you" is flashing.
3. Press menu up or down just after MUTE.
4. Use up/down to select options and left/right to adjust. The settings are automatically saved
when you exit.
(From: P. White ([email protected]) and David Rigolo ([email protected]).)
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On the new line of JVC sets (some models include: AV-36850, AV-32850, AV-27850, and
AV-32820), hold the "Display" and "Video Status" buttons on the remote simultaneously. The set
will bring up a service menu. Good luck trying to navigate the service menus with out a manual.
(From: Yorkie ([email protected]).)
Press the MENU and INFORMATION buttons down together and then press 1 then 2 then 3 while
still holding the first 2 buttons down.
Some Magnavox models: Enter 062596 then MENU. The channels will change but when MENU is
pressed, the TV will enter the service menu.
(From: Gscivi ([email protected]).)
Hit MENU on the remote, while the menu is still up press the numbers 061596 or 061597. One of
these will bring up the service menu. Now, your right/left arrows on remote will switch between the
numbers across the bottom of the screen, highlight the number set right after the 'setup or service'
option. The arrow up/down will change to the next service position.
Some Mitsubishi models: Use your remote and press MENU then 2357 use VIDEO to select service
menu and ADJUST to set values.
Some Nokia (ITT) models:
(From: Stefan Huebner ([email protected]).)
Press mono/stereo - Channel C - Hypersonic within 1 second, The display now shows SE. Leave the
service mode with the standby button.
(From: Janus Christian Krarup ([email protected]).)
Press: [OK],[MUTE],[TV/SAT]
Nokia model 6363:
(From: Ian Abel G3ZHI ([email protected]).)
Nokia model 6363 (and probably other late model TVs) - On the remote press -/-- then menu then
TV all within 1 second. When in setup mode you use channel up or down buttons on the TV set to
change to whatever you need to set up. Adjustments are made with volume + and - buttons on the
remote control. My advice is to make a note of all the settings before making changes then you can
always go back to them.
Panasonic TX-W28R3 (and similar models):
(From: Arpad Kothai ([email protected]).)
The remote control is used for entering and storing adjustments, with the exception of cut-off
adjustments which must always be done prior to service adjustment. Perform adjustments in
accordance with screen display. The display on the screen also specifies the CCU variants as well as
the approximate setting values. The adjustment sequence for the service mode is indicated below.
1. Set the Bass to maximum position, set the Treble to minimum position, press the Reveal on
the remote control and at the same time press the Volume on the customer controls at the
front of the TV, this will place the TV into the Service mode.
2. Press the RED/GREEN buttons to step down / up through the functions.
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6. Press #9 on remote to enter various modes of operation. Here is where you really need the
service manual, too much info to show here.
Once in Service mode be very careful!!!
(From: 427Cobra ([email protected]).)
Starting from step (5), above: Press menu. You should see the service adjustment menu. On the
remote, the 3 key changes colors and the 5 key toggles between line adjust mode and cursor move
mode. The number keys 2,4,6, and 8 are used as arrow keys (4 left, 6 right, 2 down, 8 up). When
adjustment is complete press the 7 key twice to save, then power the set off to exit service mode.
Zenith System 3:
(From: Raymond Carlsen ([email protected]) and [email protected]).
Hold the MENU button down for about 5 seconds... until the currently displayed menu disappears.
Then press 9 8 7 6, then ENTER. There are two menus in the service mode. Use the MENU to
toggle between them. Press SELect until the item you want is highlighted, then the ADJ button (left
or right) for the submenu or the adjustment. Press SELect for the next item and MENU for the
alternate menu. Press ENTer to exit the service mode.
Some other Zenith TVs:
On the TV itself, press MENU until it disappears, then ADJUST RIGHT and CHANNEL UP at the
same time.
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http://members.accessus.net/~090/awh/how2adj.html#5.11
http://intrepid-video.com/tvtech.htm
http://orpheuscomputing.com/technicians/Sony_service_more.html
http://cellardweller.com/tw40h80/index.html
http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/ServiceMode.htm
http://www.alientech.net/tp61h95codes.html
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/hitachi/servicemenu.html
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/thomson/thomson_servicemenu.html
http://home.tiscali.nl/m.majoor/tv.htm
http://www.e-repair.co.uk/story4.htm
http://www.artofhacking.com/files/TVMODES.TXT
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http://www.televideo.al.ru/tv-video/servis.html
http://amt.ural.ru/electronics/tv-servmenu.php3
http://es.geocities.com/Dudaelectronica/modosdeservicios.htm
http://www.servisystem.com.ar/tutorial/tv/micro.html
http://www.comunidadelectronicos.com/articulos/modo-serv.htm
http://www.comunidadelectronicos.com/articulos/desbloq.htm
http://webs.demasiado.com/kueyar/Modos.htm
http://paginadekueyar.iespana.es/paginadekueyar/Modos1.html
http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyBlink.html
EEPROM part #'s by model/chassis lookup:
http://www.mainelectronics.com/eproms.htm
http://www.prelcoparts.com/master.pdf
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/EEPROMS.pdf
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1. Locate the horizontal output transistor. It will be in a TO3 metal (most likely on an older set) or
TOP3 plastic package on a heat sink. With the set unplugged, confirm that there is no voltage across
C to E and then measure between them with an ohmmeter. In at least one direction it should be
fairly high - 1K or more. This confirms that the HOT is probably good.
(There is also a slight chance that there is a low voltage regulator in addition to the horizontal
output, so don't get them confused. The horizontal output transistor will be near the flyback
transformer and yoke connector.)
2. Trace back from the HOT collector to the flyback and through the flyback to the B+ feed from the
power supply. Clip a voltmeter between this point and the HOT emitter. Make sure the leads are
well insulated and can't accidentally short to anything. (This test can be performed across C to E of
the HOT but if the horizontal deflection were to start up unexpectadly, the meter could be damaged
by the high voltage pulses on the HOT collector. But if you can't find the B+ source, it may be
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"I bought a 29" TV a couple of weeks ago and I have noticed that after being switched on for
> about 15/20 minutes, whenever the picture changes from a "light" scene to a darker scene,
the set makes a crackling noise. It sounds as though there has been a build-up of static and it
is being discharged. I have never noticed this in a TV before and I was wondering if this is
normal and acceptable behaviour for a large-screen TV?"
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2. Corroded battery contacts, Thoroughly remove chemical deposits. Clean contacts with pencil eraser
and/or sandpaper or nailfile.
3. Broken connections often between battery contacts and circuit board, possibly on the circuit board resolder.
4. Bad resonator or crystal - replace, but diagnosing this without an oscilloscope may be tough. Broken
connections on resonator legs are common.
5. Dirt/spills/gunk preventing keys from operating reliably. Disassemble and wash rubber membrane
and circuit board with water and mild detergent and/or then alcohol - dry completely.
6. Worn or corroded contact pads on circuit board. Clean and then use conductive Epoxy or paint or
metal foil to restore.
7. Worn or dirty pads on rubber keypad. Clean. If worn, use conductive paint or metal foil to restore.
8. Cracked circuit board - can usually be repaired as these are usually single sided with big traces.
Scrape off insulating coating and jumper breaks with fine wire and solder.
9. Bad LED. If IR tester shows no output, remove LED and power it from a 9 V battery in series with
a 500 ohm resistor. If still no output, replace with readily available high power IR LED. Otherwise,
check driver circuits.
10. Bad IC - if it is a custom chip, forget it! Failure of the IC is usually quite unlikely.
(The following is from Duane P Mantick:)
An awful lot of IR remotes use IC's from the same or similar series. A common series comes from
NEC and is the uPD1986C which, incidentally is called out in the NTE replacements book as an
NTE1758. A lot of these chips are cheap and not too difficult to find, and are made in easy-towork-with 14 or 16 pin DIP packages. Unless you have no soldering or desoldering skills,
replacement isn't difficult.
There are a large variety of universal remotes available from $10-$100. For general TV/VCR/cable use,
the $10 variety are fine. However, the preprogrammed variety will not provide special functions like
programming of a TV or VCR. Don't even think about going to the original manufacturer - they will charge
an arm and a leg (or more). However, places like MCM Electronics do stock a variety of original remotes prices range from $9 - $143 (Wow $143, for just a stupid remote! It doesn't even have high definition
sound or anything exotic). The average price is around $40.
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one. If this is present and you have an oscilloscope, put is on the Signal Out. You should see the
demodulated data stream corresponding to whatever key is pressed on the hand unit. It should be a logic
level signal swinging between 0 and the supply or +5 volts.
If there is no power, then a bad cable connection or blown fusable resistor may be the cause. If there is
correct power but no signal, a fault internal to the IR module is likely. The internal circuitry may be a
combination of special ICs and discrete components. The Sams'' or service manual may or may not
provide the details. There may be an adjustment for the carrier frequency but don't be tempted to touch
this unless you have exhasuted other possibilities - and them mark it first!
If the signal is present, then there may be a problem in the microcontroller or other logic on the
mainboard. This will require a schematic to proceed further.
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1. Thermal emission from a cathode that has not yet cooled off (and this could take several minutes)
gives a more or less circular spot near the centre. It is actually 3 spots from the 3 cathodes, we at
Philips call them 'Christmas balls'.
2. Field emission from sharp whiskers on any electron gun part gives a much sharper spot, sometimes
with a moon-shaped halo around it. Even with the filament off, there may be some electron
emission from these sharp points on the cold cathode(s) due to the strong high voltage (HV) electric
fields in the electron gun. I do not know how likely this is or why this is so.
The shape of the spot is an inverted image of the shape of the emitting area(s) on the electron guns
cathodes.
The visibility of both effects depends in the same way on the decay time of the high voltage (HV/EHT) on
the anode.
When turned off with the remote or front panel button, you are not actually killing AC power but are
probably switching off the deflection and signal circuits. This leaves the HV to decay over a few minutes
or longer as it is drained by the current needed to feed the phantom spot or blob.
When you pull the plug, however, you are killing AC input and all the voltages decay together and in
particular, the video signal may be present for long enough to keep the brightness (and beam current) up
and drain the HV quickly. Whether this actually happens depends on many factors - often not dealt with
by the designers of the set.
A proper design (who knows, yours may simply have been broken from day 1 or simply be typical of your
model) would ensure that the HV is drained quickly or that the other bias voltages on the CRT are
clamped to values that would blank the CRT once the set is off. If the problem developed suddenly, then
this circuitry may have failed. On the other hand, if it has been gradually getting more pronounced, then
the characteristics of the CRT or other circuitry may have changed with age.
In most sets it is left to chance whether the picture tube capacitance will be discharged by beam current at
switch-off. It may simply be due to the behaviour of the video control IC when its supply voltage drops
that causes the cathodes to be driven to white and this may not be formally specified by the manufacturer
of the IC. Some of of the latest sets have an explicit circuit to discharge the EHT at shutdown.
As noted in the section: Safety guidelines, the HV charge on the CRT capacitance can be present for a
long time. A service technician should be very aware of that before touching HV parts!
Interestingly, most sets for the Asian Pacific market have a bleeder resistor built in that will discharge the
EHT without the need for a white flash at switch-off. These will in fact drive the beam to black at
switch-off via a negative voltage to the CRT G1 electrode. The AP market is very sensitive to proper set
behaviour, they don't like a white flash.
In short, it all depends on the demands of the particular market, the chance of the picture tube producing a
spot/blob, and the mood of the designer.
So, it may not be worth doing anything to 'fix' this unless the splotch is so bright (more so than normal
video and for an extended time) that CRT phosphor damage could result. This is usually not a problem
with direct view TVs but would definitely be a concern with high intensity projection tubes.
On the other hand, your phantom blob may provide for some interesting conversation at your next party!
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in the center of the screen. Modern sets usually avoid this by forcing the CRT to be blanked for a few
seconds after power-off while the high voltage decays or unblanked as the raster collapses to discharge the
high voltage quickly with a white flash. However, claiming they all do this by design may be optimistic! :)
The following was in response to questions about a Sony TV but should apply in general.
(From: JURB6006 ([email protected]).)
I think in this case the filter for the supply to the final video outs has gotten to a point where is discharges
faster than the tube. Sony designs usually use fast blanking at power down, but it can only blank while the
+220 VDC line is alive. There might also be a cap between the 220V line and the G1 biasing circuit. Also
Sony's almost always incorporate some sort of HV bleeder but if it opens up usually there is a convergence
problem. If it's not any of the above, the plot thickens. Look for a bad diode, or even an active spot killer
circuit that has failed.
You might want to look into this, as I tell customers, when it collapses to a line it is 480 times as bright, it
won't look 480 times as bright because the phosphor simply cant put out that much light. I've also made
comments in here on how fast a CRT will burn if the yoke is unplugged. It's then the original 480X
multiplied by 640. If that beam is in focus that means the "drive" to the phosphor is over 300,000 X what
it should be. Even if the spot is defocused to 100X it's normal size, that is still 3,000X the current on that
part of the screen. Even if yours doesn't burn the screen, in time you might expect a minor purity problem
in that area on a fine pitch color CRT. This is an effect known as "doming", and it happened even on some
low resolution NTSC TVs! It usually happened more at the sides, and if it became permanent you could
fix it up if you used enough stick-on magnets, but you can't do that in the middle.
I bet the thing is a real pain to work on too, so I might consider just never shutting it off, or a simple
modification. If G1 is grounded, it is easy. One resistor, a cap and a diode, ba-da-bing ba-da-boom. Two
caps if you like to be fastidious. There are some designs in which this will not work. It does work 99%
though, if the vidouts are driven they will discharge the +220 VDC supply, what I do is to AC couple the
supply to the G1. It can be done with three component, but there are enhancements I recommend to
protect the CRT from excessive K-G1 voltage. Don't want to cause a short there. Five or six components
will do it on almost anything.
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Sylvania/Magnavox/Philips - no startup
Check the resistor supplying initial base current to the horizontal driver (not HOT) transistor. On many
chassis, it is R502, 47 K. It opens for not good reason. Why it fails is a mystery as its power rating should
be adequate.
More on Hstat
(From: Shawn Lin ([email protected] or [email protected]).)
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The H-STAT is a plastic box that sits mounted to the picture tube's shield. It's red in color (for every SONY
TV that I have owned) and has a single knob on it. The flyback's HV output wire goes into the H-STAT
and another HV wire exists the H-STAT and connects to the anode cap on the picture tube. It has a dual
purpose, horizontal static convergence (the control adjusts this) and HV overvoltage shutdown protection.
Chances are, your HV is within spec and the H-STAT is bad, but you should make sure the regulated
voltage to the flyback is steady and doesn't fluctuate before assuming the H-STAT is bad.
H-STAT is expensive, and may not be worth replacing. My kV-1952RS is old and as a whole, not worth
the cost of a new H-STAT, so I just bypassed it and didn't bother replacing it. The TV's been working great
for over a year and the picture is still excellent.
Note: On some models, the sense wires need to be connected during startup or else it will never come on.
CAUTION: On some monitors (like the Sony CPD1302), the sense signal may be used for actual HV
regulation. Thus, if the sense wire is disconnected, (or the divider inside the Hstat block fails open) there is
no feedback and it is possible for the high voltage (and probably B+) to increase until the HOT (and
possible other components) blow. I do not know if this applies to Sony built TVs as well.
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open usually. Either the +15 V or -15 V. This puts a full + or -15 V on the yoke which deflects the guns
into the glass envelope of the tube.
Items of Interest
Various video standards
Different standards for analog component video:
Tektronix Video Standards Overview
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What is this goop around some electrolytic capacitors and other components?
That goop is probably glue and generally harmless - it is there to hold down the components aganst
vibration. I have heard of it sometimes decomposing and shorting stuff out but I doubt you have that
problem.
Therefore, unless you find a bad cap in the focus or related circuit, we are still looking at a flyback
problem.
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1. A special transformer which in conjunction with the horizontal output transistor/deflection circuits
boosts the B+ (120 V typical for a TV) of the low voltage power supply to the 20 to 30 kV for the
CRT as well as provide various secondary lower voltages for other circuits.
A HV rectifier turns the high voltage pulses into DC and the CRT capacitance smooths it. The HV
may be developed from a single winding with many many turns of wire or a lower voltage winding
and a diode-capacitor voltage multiplier.
The various secondary voltages power the logic, tuner, video signal, vertical deflection circuits, and
CRT filament. In fact, with many TV designs, the only power not derived from the flyback is for the
keep-alive circuitry needed to maintain channel memory and provide startup drive to the horizontal
deflection/high voltage system.
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2. A voltage divider that provides the focus and screen supplies. The pots are in this divider network and these things fail resulting poor focus, uncontrolled brightness, or fluctuating focus and/or
brightness. A total short could also result in failure of other components like the horizontal output
transistor. In some TVs, the focus and screen divider and/or controls are external to the flyback and
susceptible to dust and problems particularly on humid days. The resistance of these circuits is so
high that dirt or other contamination can easily provide a bypass path to ground especially when
slightly damp.
CRT rejuvenation
Where one or more electron guns in the CRT have deteriorated due to wear and tear, it is sometimes
possible to give them a new, but possibly, temporary lease on life through rejuvenation using a special
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where they all are - otherwise, follow the instructions in the service manual --- sam):
1. Apply a white crosshatch or dot pattern to the set. Don't try and converge on anything else - you'll
go insane. It's useful to be able to switch between those 2 patterns.
2. Before you start, set the height, width, linearity, pincushion, etc. They will interact with the
convergence. Also check PSU voltages, and the EHT voltage if it's adjustable. That's where you do
need a service manual, I guess.
3. Turn off the blue gun using the A1 switch, and use the red and green static radial controls to get a
yellow crosshatch in the middle of the screen. These controls may be electrical presets, or may be
movable magnets on the radial convergence yoke (the Y-shaped think behind the deflection yoke).
4. Turn on the blue gun and use the 2 blue static controls (radial and lateral) to align the blue and
yellow crosshatches at the center of the screen. Some manufacturers recommend turning off the
green gun when doing this, and aligning red with blue (using *only* the blue controls, of course),
but I prefer to align blue with yellow, as it gives a check on the overall convergence of the tube.
5. Turn off the blue gun again. Now the fun starts - dynamic convergence. The first adjustments align
the red and green crosshatches near the edges - I normally do the top and bottom first. There will be
2 controls for this, either a top and a bottom, or a shift and a linearity. The second type is a *pain*
to do, as it's not uncommon for it to affect the static convergence.
6. Getting the red and green verticals aligned near the edges is a similar process.
7. You now have (hopefully) a yellow crosshatch over the entire screen.
8. Now to align the blue. This is a lot worse, although the principle is the same. Turn on the blue gun
again, and check the static (center) convergence
9. To align the blue lines with the yellow ones, you'll find not only shift controls, but also slope
controls. Use the shift controls to align the centers of the lines and the slope controls to get the
endpoints right. These interact to some extent. You'll need to fiddle with the controls for a bit to
work out what they do, even if you have the manual.
The convergence over the entire screen should now be good....
A word of warning here... The purity is set by ring magnets on almost all colour CRTs, but on PIL tubes,
there are other ring magnets as well - like static convergence. Make sure you know what you are
adjusting.
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non-projection) TV screen through a magnifying lens, you should be able to see red, green and blue dots,
and no other colours.
Now, there are 3 basic adjustments to getting a good colour picture :
1. Purity. This means that the red picture is only red, the green picture only green, etc. This is the one
that needs setting up on your set - you have a purity problem
2. Convergence. This means that the 3 pictures line up over the entire screen (or as much of it as
possible). If this one is wrong, you'll see coloured fringes around objects in the picture.
3. Grey scale. This sets the overall colour of the picture - it means that white is really white, etc. It
varies the relative intensities of the red, green and blue pictures.
(From: VK.)
"I called the store in a panic and they calmly told me to press the "degauss" button to
eliminate the problem (which I quickly learned was spurious magnetization, caused perhaps
by storage near a speaker in the warehouse?). Result? Better but not cured."
(From: Tony.)
Yes, spurious magnetization (or more correctly a different magnetic field around the tube from the one
present when it was set up) will cause purity problems.
(From: V. K.)
"The next day I visited the store, and the manager said (again) that this was an easily fixable
problem, requiring a few waves of a degaussing coil. To appease me, he sends the salesman
home with me with small (1 foot diameter) coil in tow. Salesman (boy, actually) waves the
coil in front of and around set but can't seem to remove the discoloration."
(From: Tony.)
Argh... Here's what should have been done IMHO.
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1. The set should have been degaussed (a fancy word for demagnetized).
2. They should have connected a 'pattern generator' to the set. This is a piece of equipment that
generates various test signals. They should have selected 'red raster' (which will appear to you as a
pure red screen), and set up the purity adjustments on that. You should ask to see the pure red raster
(and pure green and pure blue if the generator will allow it), and make sure there are no strangecoloured patches. If you like, you can examine the screen through a magnifying lens to check that
there are no dots of other colours appearing - I do that when I'm setting up a new TV or monitor.
3. They should then have displayed a 'cross hatch' on the screen. This is a grid of white vertical and
horizontal lines. Convergence errors are shown by the lines splitting into 2 or more colours
(normally one of the 'primary colours' - red, green, or blue, and its complementary colour (cyan,
magenta, and yellow).) Note, however, that it's _very_ difficult or even impossible to get perfect
convergence over the entire screen on a modern tube, and that you'll not notice small errors near the
corners on a TV screen. Note that some engineers prefer to set up the convergence on some other
type of display (dots, for example), but you should at least be able to see a cross hatch pattern (all
pattern generators provide that one)
4. They should have then displayed a 'grey scale' test display. This is a pattern of vertical grey bars of
different brightnesses, from black to white. They should all have been a neutral grey, without
colouration.
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Note that convergence and purity interact to some extent, and thus if either is adjusted, both must be
checked (and rechecked). Grey scale adjustments interact with nothing else.
I would want to see the set on a pattern generator (at least the patterns I've mentioned above) and identify
the problems.
(From: V. K.)
"To demagnetize the TV, he says that a large coil is required, that encompasses the whole unit;
service rep will 'be in touch'."
(From: Tony.)
I've never heard of that - the correct procedure is to wipe the coil around the front, top, sides and bottom
_NOT the back_ and then move it 2-3m from the set before turning it off. It doesn't matter whether the set
is on or off for this, btw. I've not heard of putting a large coil round the entire set. (See the section:
Degaussing (demagnetizing) a CRT.
(From: V. K.)
"After the sales boy leaves, I could SWEAR that the picture quality in general is decreased,
with people (especially their extremities like lips and ears) appearing pinker than before, and
also more general interference (fringes/noise) noticeable."
The convergence and purity are set by ring magnets on the neck of the tube. It's possible that the
degaussing procedure has slightly demagnetized these, and if so, the whole set will need to be set up.
Similarly, if any part of the set was magnetized at the factory, then the adjustments may have been set up
to compensate, and then after demagnetization, they'll need to be reset.
(From: V. K.)
"So my questions are these. Can the original problem truly be FIXED with proper sized coil
and application?
(From: Tony.)
I don't think the size of the coil will make any difference. I would want to see that set on a pattern
generator, so I could be _sure_ as to what the problems are. If the dealers don't have a pattern generator,
then they're not fit to be fixing TVs IMHO.
(From: V. K.)
"Could I be imagining that the waving of the small coil degraded the picture quality?"
(From: Tony.)
It's possible, but fairly unlikely. See above
(From: V. K.)
"Should I demand replacement to a new set? Can I legally ask for this, or is it like a new
car...you own it, now you deal with the service guys forever.
(From: Tony.)
I don't know US law, but in the UK, if a product is defective, you can demand a refund of the money paid
(not a replacement or a repair, a refund). IMHO, a TV with incorrect colours is defective...
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1. If you fire a projection set up with one yoke disconnected AND the yoke windings are in series,
unless you are quick, you will have a horizontal line burnt in all three tubes.
2. The shop may have been less than 100% competent, and even if they were 100% competent, it
could have happened at the actual time of the failure, before they ever saw it.
3. If the set was fired up by ANYONE with any of the yokes disconnected, the vertical blanking
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circuit should have cut off ALL beam current, preventing the burning of the CRT screens. Two
exceptions apply;
YOU were already watching the TV with a fault, or the burn happened really quickly and you
didn't notice the spot.
The technician turned up the G2 to the point where it overrode the blanking.
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Also see the section: Comments on color purity, set orientation, and doming.
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Possibly, but why bother? You will most likely be limited by the TV or VCR's circuitry anyhow.
All S-Video means is (1) a special connector and (2) separate luminance (Y) and chrominance (C) rather
than composite video.
In a VCR, you will need to bypass the input circuitry and get to the place where Y and C are separate.
This may or may not be possible depending on its design.
In a TV, they may never be separate and you will need to substitute your own circuitry for the chroma
demodulator.
It is probably not worth it as you will likely not gain much in picture quality but if you really are
determined, a schematic will be essential in either case.
If all you want to do is allow for an S-video input, there are single chips which will combine the Y and C
into a normal composite video signal.
Also, see the section: How do I add A/V inputs or outputs to a TV which does not have them built in?
since there may be safety implications in the case of adding S-Video to a TV without any A/V jacks.
How do I add A/V inputs or outputs to a TV which does not have them built in?
For A/V inputs (video and audio) The place to do this is after the video and audio IF where baseband
signals are normally separate.
For audio, in particular, an alternative is to tap into the audio circuitry which may be elsewhere. Even the
loudspeaker outputs can be used but then without additional switching, you cannot disable the internal
speakers when you are using your stereo system.
Depending on the model of TV, doing any of this may be trivial to impossible - or a serious safety hazard.
Trivial: many low-end models use the same chassis (read this: circuit board) as the high end A/V
receivers. Either there will be some parts missing, a cable connection to the missing A/V panel, or a
missing auxiliary board which would have the A/V interface and jacks. If this is the case with your
model, then it should be straightforward and safe to tap into the circuits at that point.
A service manual or Sams' Photofact for the set will probably even identify the additional circuitry
present in the higher priced models with A/V inputs.
If, on the other hand, everything is crammed onto a single circuit board with no evidence of A/V
signals, it may be very difficult as suitable tap-in points may simply not be available.
Hazardous: many TVs have circuitry which is not isolated from the AC line. If this is the case with
your set, then it may be more trouble than it is worth to provide the essential isolation barrier
between the TV and your external A/V equipment. The only 'easy' solution for audio at least is to
include an isolation transformer RATED FOR LINE VOLTAGE ISOLATION in each signal path to
the outside world. A means of isolation can be provided for video as well but it has to be able to
handle the 6 MHz or so bandwidth of the video signal. A simple capacitor even if rated for sufficient
voltage will probably not work and could be hazardous since it would need to have a high uF value
to pass the lower frequency end of the video signal.
If what you are really after is replacing a dead tuner/IF with your own tuner or converter, this may be
possible but, again, may not be worth the trouble. The antenna isolation circuitry is probably external to
the TV's tuner so yours could be substituted in its place. Of course, any user contact with the transplanted
device would then have to be TOTALLY prevented since a serious shock hazard would be present for all
metal parts and connections including shield grounds. In addition, many components would likely blow the
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Building a Frankenstein TV
Here is an interesting questions:
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"I got a lot of partially gutted TVs at an auction (All the same brand) and I'm trying to build a
'Frankenstein TV'.
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I have a 13" unit with a working power supply board and tuner board in one set. I have
another set with a 25" picture tube in it. I'd like to drive the big tube with the guts from the
small TV. Does anyone know If I'll blow up my workbench if I attempt this sort of
transplant?"
It won't blow up your workbench but the differences are probably significant enough that the performance
would be unsatisfactory if it worked at all.
In addition, this may blow up the power supply board - kill the horizontal output transistor and/or low
voltage power supply itself - as the required power levels are higher. If you have nothing to lose, power
your Frankenstein initially through a series 100 W light bulb and Variac. Then you will be able to tell if
you are even close with less risk of blowing expensive parts.
Of course, this does assume that all the organs your are merging are actually good to start with. Why do
you you think they unloaded those TV carcasses?
While the same chassis may be used for 19" and 25" sets, going from 13" to 25" is likely to have many
differences.
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1. You will need to disconnect the deflection yoke from the horizontal and vertical deflection circuits
of the TV or monitor without killing the HV. (also, doing all this without killing yourself as well).
Depending on the design, this may be as simple as unplugging the yoke connector. More than likely,
you will need to substitute a load for the horizontal deflection coil. A coil from another sacrificial
similar TV or monitor would probably suffice.
Warning: at this point you have a really bright spot in the middle of the screen which will turn to a
really black spot if the brightness is not turned way down really really quickly.
2. For the horizontal, you need a ramped current source. You are driving a non-ideal inductor (the
deflection coil) so it has both inductance and resistance. Thus the waveform is a trapezoid - a
voltage ramp (for the resistive part) superimposed on a voltage step (for the inductive part). This
should not be too difficult. Don't expect to be able to achieve really fast sweep. Even running at
normal TV rates is non-trivial.
3. Similarly, for the vertical you need to drive with a voltage (your signal) controlled current source.
However, if you are just screwing around, then the linearity etc. for the vertical may not be that
important. In this case, one way is to put a current sensing resistor in series with the deflection coil
and use this in a power op amp type of feedback arrangement. (You could do this for (2) as well.
4. There is a good chance that the original brightness control will work as an intensity adjustment.
However, with some TVs and monitors, this depends on receiving a valid video signal. You may
need to improvise. If you do want to control the intensity from a signal source, you should be able
to tap into the drive signals going to the little board on the neck of the CRT.
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5. Don't expect high bandwidth, uniform response, or any of the other things you take for granted with
a decent scope. That takes work. However, as a fun project, this certainly qualifies. Interchanging
the functions of the horizontal and vertical deflection yoke (and rotating it 90 degrees) may provide
a better match of horizontal and vertical bandwidth to your intended applications or experiments.
6. With a color TV or monitor, these experiments could be quite interesting and educational but there
may be color fringing effects since you are not compensating for certain aspects of dynamic
convergence at all.
7. SAFETY: Once you disconnect the deflection yoke from the TV or monitor's circuits, move the
original circuits out of the way and put a barrier between between you and the rest of the TV or
monitor. All you will need are connections to the deflection yoke on the CRT (unless you want to do
intensity modulation in which case you will need to drive the video output(s) to the CRT cathodes. I
would recommend against doing this if your unit is one of those with a totally 'live' chassis as there
would be additional safety hazards and circuit complications).
(From: Chris Crochet ([email protected]).)
Hehehe... Actually, I've done this one. :)
I've got two old IBM mainframe terminals, painted like charred metal, hooked up to each channel of the
'B' speaker outputs on my stereo. It's strange looking and always an attention getter when I have guests.
Not to mention, the long-persistence phosphor they use makes interesting tracers :)
One caveat, at least on these monitors (I don't know what other monitors this might apply to). When you
turn them off, the circuitry shuts down in the following order: horizontal drive first, electron gun second,
and vertical drive last. Therefore, if there is no vertical deflection, which would be the case if the stereo is
quiet, the active electron beam becomes perfectly stationary during the course of shutdown, thus burning
a hole in the phosphor. Oops :) I found it more effective to hook the stereo into the HORIZONTAL drive,
thus avoiding this problem. Not quite like your average oscilloscope.
Another interesting effect -- if the electron gun is active during vertical blanking interval, it seems to
deflect so far that it bounces off the SIDES of the picture tube, and sprays all over the phosphor, making
some interesting images.
(From: Lance Edmonds ([email protected]).
Some years ago ELEKTOR and Electronics Australia magazines published articles on a design for this.
Dick Smith Electronics in both NZ & Australia used to sell the kit.
Max Bandwidth was a startling 10 or 15Khz. Enough for elementary audio servicing.
Those magazines also published designs for delayed sweep & trigger modules as additions to any basic
'scope. Plus, a storage scope design, logic analyzer design, and a Dual trace emulator design.
Enough to keep the average hobbist/experimenter happy for quite a while (g).
(From: Dale H. Cook ([email protected]).)
Every few months someone will pop up with this question. A TV would not make a very good scope.
Bandwidth would be limited and the amount of work needed to build the horizontal and vertical
amplifiers, sweep and triggering circuits and so on wouldn't be worth the effort. You'd need even more
work to add modern features such as delayed triggering and variable hold-off. Don't even think about
multiple channels and the advantages they offer. In a time when I see used Tek 465s offered for $200 it
certainly doesn't pay to try to convert a TV. If you are just looking for a challenging electronic project I
can think of several that have a far better chance of yielding something useful. Now, if you were starting
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with an antique set that used an electrostatic CRT you might do a bit better, but a 1937 Dumont will set
you back about $3,000.00 or so - a little too much of an investment.
(From: Tony Duell ([email protected]).)
I've worked on the vector monitors that were used on some of the 1970's minicomputers. These are
essentially X-Y displays (not raster scanned), and would make audio-bandwidth 'scopes if given a
timebase. I would guess at a bandwidth of the order of 100kHz.
Some of them (DEC, certainly, maybe Tektronix) were electromagnetically deflected like a TV. However,
there are a couple of things to be aware of. Firstly, the output amplifier, which drives the yoke at constant
current, is pretty complex. Secondly, the yoke is specially made - the 2 sets of coils are pretty similar
(unlike those in a TV), and the inductance is critical.
So, while I'll keep these monitors running, I'd not want to have to covert a TV into one :-).
(From: David Katz ([email protected]).)
If by chance what you want is an X-Y display for audio, not a (more typical) X-T, it's easy. Just put a
resistor in series with each yoke (about 100 ohms, 5 W) and drive them with a stereo amp.
(From: Steve Roberts ([email protected]).)
Your best hope might be to get a older generation heart monitor from a hospital, these have a professional
X-Y display module to begin with, and are surprisingly easy to hack, mine was $10 at the local surplus
shop. The ultra long persistence phosphor is a pain/blessing depending on what you are doing.
For a description of what one person did, see: Dan's Home-Built O-Scope Page.
(From: Alan ([email protected]).)
Apparently it's pretty hard to produce a decent scope.
It is, however, pretty easy to use the CRT as something like a scope, which I did recently with the built-in
green screen monitor of a thing called a Kapro 2X. It was being thrown away, so I said I'd take it and have
a look inside before throwing it away.
I wondered what if it was possible to drive the CRT from a source other than the computer video circuitry,
so I did some tests, worked out how and by what voltage the deflectors were driven, (about 1v, 0.3A
measured as an AC voltage).
Once I'd worked out that this was about the same as the output from a small stereo amp, I removed the
horizontal signal from the CRT and hooked one channel of my stereo across the horizontal deflector , left
the vertical deflector hooked up to it's (60Hz?, 30Hz?) signal, and switched it on. The results look pretty
good, I get a full-screen moving trace of the sound wave. One other thing that I did was make the beam
intensity constant by turning a knob marked 'B-SUB' a bit, this would have flooded the screen with 'white'
ordinarily, but was perfect for me as I could now remove the computer motherboard all together.
I also tried connecting the left and right channels across the horizontal and vertical deflectors respectively
(first disconnecting them from their normal inputs), which produced some really cool looking lissijous
(sp?) figure type things, that change and throb with the music- each CD seemed to have distinctive
characteristics. Maybe I'll try two different pieces of music across the axes, could be interesting...
I'd love to try throwing some different signals of different frequencies and shapes across the axes too,
especially in combination a with musical one. The 'best' results so far, have been from music with a strong
bass, simple beat (cymbals with a bass drum look great), and not too many layers of guitars, vocals, etc.
(too many sounds and it's an uninteresting mess...)
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If you want more information or have any advice on or experience with this sort of thing, mail me...
If you're thinking of trying any of this, remember (in case you don't know) that TVs/Monitors can be
REALLY dangerous even when switched off and unplugged. See the section: SAFETY.
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hit by lightning. Not directly though. I am trying to figure out why it will not power up now. I
traced as far as I could into the power and it seems to be getting 120 all the way to some sort
of parts. I know at least that it is going past the fuse, and the fuse did not even blow. But
when I press the on switch still nothing happens. The switch is good, as is the wiring leading
to the mainboard. From there I don't know. Does anyone know of any VERY common things
to go when hit by lightning? I really don't know much about TV repair, but I feel like trying to
fix it myself. I just have no idea where to look now. It is getting power, but I don't know
where exactly it is stopping. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated."
(From: Brian Frank" ([email protected]).)
When I was in trade school the instructor who taught the TV/VCR. repair course also had a fixit place on
the side. This man knew everything about TVs, he could almost tell you what was wrong with a set by just
smelling it. Once I brought a set to class that had been struck indirectly as well, the instructor told me the
best thing to do was to tie a rope around it an use it as an anchor for a boat. He further went on to explain
that a set struck in any way usually has so many problems that it is not worth getting in to. The one time
he did try to fix a particularly expensive set it took him and two other employees three weeks to get it
going. And he said there were still some problems.
As for tips on actually fixing it you might want to ask around for junkers and cannibalize them into one
set.
Multisystem TVs
The question often arise: can my NTSC TV modified to display PAL signals (or vice-versa). Unlike a VCR
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where there are substantial differences between recording of NTSC and PAL, the problem of displaying
the picture is much simpler.
The following assumes 525 line NTSC and 625 line PAL:
The horizontal scan rates are nearly identical (15,734 Hz for NTSC and 15,625 Hz for PAL), so this is not
likely to be a problem. If these differed significantly, then there would be design issues similar to those for
multisync computer monitors and this would drive up cost.
The vertical scan are slightly more of a problem with 525 line/60 Hz NTSC and 625 line/50 Hz PAL. But it
is a lot easier to design vertical deflection to accommodate a modest variation in rates. TVs could be easily
designed or modified to accept either.
The color encoding techniques differ but inexpensive ICs exist that can deal with either standard. In fact,
many are programmable to do either with a jumper and slight modifications to the external components.
Displaying a monochrome - B/W - picture on the other kind of set is usually possible if the set has a
vertical hold control or enough vertical range. Modifying the chroma circuitry is more complicated but it
should be possible to substitute a second IC and patch it into the existing video chain.
As far as commercial multisystem TVs are concerned, the real reason we do not see many of these (at
least in the U.S.) is lack of demand. They are available if you look hard enough and are willing to pay a
premium. They are readily available on the international market.
Buying a TV in Europe
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Can I buy a TV in any west-european country and use it in any other west-european country?
For example, buying a TV in the Netherlands and use it in Greece or buying in France and
using in England."
(From: Jeroen H. Stessen ([email protected]).)
The general answer is: NO.
There are multi-standard TV's that cover more countries, but a TV that covers them all is extremely rare.
Most countries now have PAL-BG, including all of Germany. England has PAL-I, the analog sound is at a
different frequency and the digital sound is their own variety of Nicam. France has Secam L-L', mostly
incompatible with anything else. I don't know about Greece, probably PAL-BG. Most Philips high-end
sets can do PAL-BG, Secam-BG and NTSC (the latter from the baseband video inputs only).
(From: Allan Mounteney ([email protected]).)
The answer is YES. Well, at least one.
Reason I know is that I was with a company that made computers with TV-OUT for world wide use and
wanted something that could show that the TV Out worked for various countries.
This ONE and ONLY one we could find Three years ago came from Germany and covered PAL, SECAM
and the American NTSC systems and came with a note that said from the time of making/selling that set it
would not work in just one small country in South America. All features (including audio) were adjustable
from the front panel Menu and it was a Grundig 17" job. I am advised that there is a load of others on the
market now.
The company who seemed to know all about these international sets and gave us good service at that time
was Andrew McCulloch Ltd in Cambridge UK. Phone #44(0)1223-351825
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this:
OK, let me get this straight - this card/box will enable a 31.4 kHz horizontal scan rate monitor (VGA) be
used as a TV - yes or no? It thus includes a video A/D, full screen frame buffer, D/A, and all the other
tuner stuff for under $200? I don't think so. A scan doubler - which is a subset of the above - will not
result in a high quality picture since it will display pairs of lines interleaved. Or does the impressive
advertisement leave out the key requirement that the monitor sync at the NTSC horizontal scan rate of
15.734 kHz (most newer monitor do not)? Or is it a board that plugs into a PC and indeed does use the
resources of the PC including the VGA card and bus?
In any case, get a written money back satisfaction guarantee.
How can I couple 4 TV screens to make them act like only one?
"I've being thinking about how people do these kind of things? Is this analog stuff or do they
use some kind of digitized signal which is then divided to each TV?"
It is mostly digital. The original master signal is digitized and stored in memory. Control codes specify the
readout of a (probably double buffered) frame store. 9 and 16 screen versions are common. If you look
closely, you will note that the resolution of pictures that differ is always lower indicating that the whole
affair is driven from a single tape source with appropriate decoding. Where the pictures are the same, they
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may be at full resolution. Sub blocks of identical pictures may be at some intermediate resolution.
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(I have often argued that this long delay is not pleasing to the customer who would rather have a faint
picture earlier.)
Reasons why the warm-up trip level may not be reached are:
The pulse is not strong enough, sometimes it can be adjusted via the same pin on the IC that adjusts
the peak drive limiter,
The emission of the cathodes is not enough (too cold, worn out cathode surface or too low VG2
voltage = screen voltage),
The measurement resistor is too low value (via that diode),
The beam current info circuit at the video output amplifiers does not work well, often because the
CRT cathode voltage goes too low and the voltage on BCI can not be higher than that.
If there is too little beam current in general then I would start with re-adjusting the VG2 screen voltage.
Because of the automatic black level stabilization this will NOT have any obvious effect on the picture.
The stabilization just follows the VG2.
If VG2 is too low then the peak drive limiter will kick in too early and you can't get a decent contrast.
Also the picture will be less sharp because at a lower cutoff voltage a smaller cathode area is used plus
there's your problem with the warm-up detector.
If VG2 is too high then the video signal can not achieve blanking level anymore and you will see retrace
lines. Also the cathodes will wear out faster because at a higher cutoff voltage a smaller cathode area is
used, you'll have a sharper picture but not for long.
The proper adjustment procedure for VG2 is in the service doc, you need to observe the measurement
pulses on an oscilloscope. But a little twist won't hurt too much, especially if you have already written off
the CRT.
(I have the advantage of having known the people who invented this system many years ago, they were
once my teachers.)
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What is Aquadag?
You may see the term 'Aquadag' referring the the black paint covering the outside of most of the funnel
section of the CRT.
(From: Nicholas Bodley ([email protected]).)
Aquadag used to be a trademark of Acheson Colloids [Corp.?], I think around Niagara Falls or Buffalo,
NY. It was one of many "-dag" colloidal graphites; they also made Oildag, Gredag (grease), and
Alcoholdag, as I recall. Unfortunately, it's probably sold in 55-gallon drums minimum. I hope you can find
smaller quantities. Are there any CRT rebuild shops around the USA? See the Thomas Catalog (ThomCat)
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Although at first this appears to short out the line supply, when drawn like this it turns out to be a valid
switching regulator:
Q1 is driven by a pulse width modulated signal a the horizontal rate.
Q1 turns on putting 150 V across choke. Current ramps up in choke - more or less linear until
saturation which should not occur. This time increases with increasing load.
Q1 turns off. Since current in an inductor cannot change instantly, current continues to flow, now
through D2, C2, and +135 load. LCR (R of load, diode) time constant - charges capacitor and
powers load.
It would appear to fail and run away under the following circumstances:
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1. Inductance is too low and choke cannot store enough energy even at high duty cycle to supply load.
Too high a duty cycle and core saturates at which point transistor blows up.
2. Inductance is too high relative to switching frequency so that choke does not have time to discharge
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(its current) before next current pulse - DC current will just keep increasing until core saturates.
This could only really happen if the switching frequency were too high for some reason unless
someone changed core material or something like t.
3. Load is too great due to fault elsewhere.
Unfortunately for reliability and troubleshooting, many modern power supply designs have similar failings.
When attempting to diagnose problems with these types of circuits where the natural outcome of a fault is
for one or more expensive parts to fail catastrophically, it is wise to either use a Variac to bring up the
input voltage slowly and carefully observe the behavior hopefully before too late or put a load in series
with the line such as a 100W light bulb to limit the current (though this will change the behavior in various
ways).
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of about $20 dollars a pop til I figured out how to use the "HOT Heatsink Jig". Now with the jig
connected, the horizontal width may not open up all the way, but you can run these old Sony's like this for
about 5 minutes before the HOT jig starts to get too hot. Usually if they run this long they're ok and then
you can put the SG-613 in knowing that you aren't going to see a bunch of $$$ go up in smoke. I had a
Sony that would run for weeks then blow the SG-613 finally put this one to rest when I changed out the
horizontal output transformer which was separate from the flyback on this oldie.
Always be cautious of the high voltage on the collector of the HOT JIG.
IR detector circuit
This IR Detector may be used for testing of IR remote controls, CD player laserdiodes, and other low level
near IR emitters.
Component values are not critical. Purchase photodiode sensitive to near IR - 750-900 um or salvage from
optocoupler or photosensor. Dead computer mice, not the furry kind, usually contain IR sensitive
photodiodes. For convenience, use a 9V battery for power. Even a weak one will work fine. Construct so
that LED does not illuminate the photodiode!
The detected signal may be monitored at the collector of the transistor (Q1) with an oscilloscope.
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Sensor
Photodiode
|
|
|
B |/ C
+-------|
Q1 2N3904
|
|\ E
\
|
/ R2
+--------> GND
\ 27K
|
/
|
|
|
GND >--------+---------+
_|_
-
UK Satellite TV information
(From: Martin Pickering).
Here is a list of the FAQs and other documents related to UK satellite TV available at:
Satcure Web Site
by adding the appropriate file name to the URL, above, or following the links.
aegir.htm
churchil.htm
d2mac.htm
digifaq.htm
diseqc.htm
dummies.htm
filmnet.htm
galaxis.htm
grd150.htm
interf.htm
jack.htm
lnb.htm
money.htm
mrd920.htm
mss200.htm
mss500.htm
nimbus.htm
prdkits.htm
products.htm
reliable.htm
sat1700.htm
sataccs.htm
satbooks.htm
satfaqs.htm
satkits.htm
satwalk.htm
scarts.htm
spares.htm
sparkly.htm
sr5500.htm
srd400.htm
srd500.htm
srd510.htm
srd600.htm
srx200.htm
ss9kits.htm
svs250.htm
tools.htm
uniden.htm
which.htm
advice.htm
ard200.htm
ctu900.htm
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mss100.htm
prd.htm
rd480.htm
srd6.htm
srd700.htm
ss9.htm
svs300.htm
why.htm
yourfaqs.htm
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NTSC: National Television Standards Committee PAL: Phase Alternate Line SECAM: SEquential Couleur
Avec Memoire (Sequential colour with memory)
There are other differences though. Strictly they are just different colour systems, but most countries
which use PAL have 625 lines in a picture and send 25 full pictures/second, most NTSC countries have
525 lines and send 30 full pictures/second (mostly for historical rather than technical reasons). That
complicates things.
2. Who devised them, and when? and why? Are they as old as television?
The first serious TV experimenting was done in several countries around the period 1900-1930, mostly
black & white. The BBC started a regular service in 1936, other countries followed soon after, but since
the technology was developing very rapidly there were always improvements being made. The BBC
started with 405 lines, the US started a service a couple of years later with 525, by the time other
European countries started the technology allowed 625 lines. France even tried 819 lines.
All those system were black & white, but people wanted to have colour. During the 1940's much of
Europe was at war, and technological development for entertainment slowed down, but in the US they
were able to continue and devised a colour system which was compatible with the existing black & white
one.
By compatible I mean that a black & white TV got a black & white picture, a colo(u)r one got a colour
picture. No need to make people throw away their B&W TVs. This system was endorsed by the American
National Television Standards Committee, and was named after it => NTSC.
After the war other countries started to look at colour. NTSC was a very clever system, but it had some
flaws. Engineers in various countries tried to improve on it, and Telefunken in Germany came up with a
simple modification which improved colour stability. It was named PAL because they reversed the Phase
of the colour signal on Alternate Lines.
At the same time Henri de France, in France, fixed the same flaw in a different way. His design (SECAM)
needed a memory inside the set which made it more expensive. PAL gave as good a result, so most
countries opted for that. France stayed with SECAM, possibly because in the De Gaulle era of the 50's
memories of German occupation were still fresh, and dropping a French system in favour of a German one
would have been unpopular. Rumour has it that the French government subsidized Thomson to make
memory affordable.
Since Britain went PAL, France went SECAM, and the US went NTSC, any colonies or dependencies of
those countries tended to get the same system. India/Pakistan got PAL, Algeria got SECAM, and since the
US helped rebuild Japan after WW2 it got NTSC, etc.
3. What's the difference?
To squeeze a colour signal into the same space as a black & white one, and stay compatible, the NTSC
designers separated the colour and brightness information. The human eye is less sensitive to colour, so
they were able to reduce the bandwidth of that signal (make it take up less space in each channel), 'hiding'
it at the high-frequency end of the video. That meant they didn't need to make the channels bigger, and
incompatible.
To do that, they used the fact that you can represent most colours with a combination of Red, Green and
Blue. If you film a scene with three cameras, one for each colour, then add all the outputs together you get
a black & white image. This signal is called luminance, usually represented by 'Y'. Mathematically Y = R
+ G + B. (Actually, not all the contributions are equal).
They then transmitted the Y signal just as for a black & white TV, and also transmitted the R and B in the
extra colour signal. B&W TV's only saw Y, and colour TV's got Y, R and B. Since Y = R + B + G, G can
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switches at half the line rate to re-invert the colour signal on alternate lines. Well, to avoid a patent, the
Sony set only uses (say) the in-phase colour signal that's received on alternate lines. For the lines in
between it uses the previous line's colour signal (ignoring the incoming inverted one), which has been
stored in a delay line.
This approach avoids the main patent on the PAL system. It also means that this set doesn't automatically
correct for phase errors in the colour signals - it's almost an NTSC decoder. Hence the hue control (which
is also on my kV1320UB schematic). It's just about the only set like that.
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PAL/SECAM B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL I
PAL N
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL B
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL I
SECAM K1
PAL M
PAL B
SECAM D
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
PAL N
PAL G
PAL G
PAL G
PAL H
PAL M
SECAM K
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BURUNDI
CAMBODIA
CAMEROON
CANADA
CANARY ISLANDS
CHAD
CHILE
CHINA
COLOMBIA
COSTA RICA
CUBA
CYPRUS
CZECHOSLOVAKIA: now
CZECH REPUBLIC PAL
SLOVAK REPUBLIC
DAHOMEY
DENMARK
DJIBHOUTI
DOMINICAN REP
ECUADOR
EGYPT
EL SALVADOR
EQUATORIAL GUINEA
ETHIOPIA
FIJI
FINLAND
FRANCE
FRENCH POLYNESIA
GABON
GAMBIA
GERMANY
GHANA
GIBRALTAR
GREECE
GREENLAND
GUADELOUPE
GUAM
GUATEMALA
GUANA (FRENCH)
GUINEA
HONDURAS
HONG KONG
HUNGARY
ICELAND
INDIA
INDONESIA
IRAN
IRAQ
IRELAND
ISRAEL
ITALY
IVORY COAST
JAMAICA
JAPAN
JORDAN
KENYA
KOREA NORTH
KOREA SOUTH
KUWAIT
LEBANON
LIBERIA
LIBYA
LUXEMBOURG
MADAGASCAR
MADEIRA
MALAGASY
MALAWI
MALAYSIA
MALI
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SECAM K1
NTSC M
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL B
SECAM K1
NTSC M
PAL D
NTSC M
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL
PAL
SECAM K1
PAL B
SECAM B
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM B
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM L
K1
SECAM K1
PAL I
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM/PAL B
NTSC M/PAL B
SECAM K1
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM K1
PAL K
NTSC M
PAL I
SECAM D/PAL
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM B
SECAM B
PAL I
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM K1
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM D
NTSC M
PAL B
SECAM B
PAL B
SECAM B
PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM K1
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PAL G
NTSC M
NTSC M
NTSC M
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL
PAL G
SECAM G
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM G
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
SECAM L
PAL G
PAL G
PAL H
SECAM/PAL G
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM K/PAL
PAL G
PAL G
SECAM G
PAL I
PAL G
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
NTSC M
SECAM G
PAL H
SECAM G
PAL G/SECAM L
PAL G
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MALTA
MARTINIQUE
MAURITANIA
MAURITIUS
MEXICO
MONACO
MONGOLIA
MOROCCO
MOZAMBIQUE
NAMIBIA
NEPAL
NETHERLANDS
NETH. ANTILLES
NEW CALEDONIA
NEW GUINEA
NEW ZEALAND
NICARAGUA
NIGER
NIGERIA
NORWAY
OMAN
PAKISTAN
PANAMA
PARAGUAY
PERU
PHILIPPINES
POLAND
PORTUGAL
PUERTO RICO
QATAR
REUNION
RUMANIA
RUSSIA
RWANDA
SABAH/SARAWAK
ST. KITTS
SAMOA
SAUDI ARABIA
SENEGAL
SEYCHELLES
SIERRA LEONE
SINGAPORE
SOMALIA
SOUTH AFRICA
SPAIN
SRI LANkA
SUDAN
SURINAM
SWAZILAND
SWEDEN
SWITZERLAND
SYRIA
TAHITI
TAIWAN
TANZANIA
THAILAND
TOGO
TRINIDAD Y TOBAGO
TUNISIA
TURKEY
UGANDA
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
UNITED KINGDOM
UPPER VOLTA
URUGUAY
USA
VENEZUELA
VIETNAM
YEMEN
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PAL B
SECAM K1
SECAM B
SECAM B
NTSC M
SECAM L
SECAM D
SECAM B
PAL B
PAL I
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
SECAM K1
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
SECAM K1
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL N
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM D/PAL
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL D
SECAM D
SECAM K1
PAL B
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM B/PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL I
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM B
SECAM K1
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM K
NTSC M
SECAM B
PAL B
PAL B
PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL N
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL B
PAL B
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PAL H
NTSC M
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
PAL G
NTSC M
NTSC M
NTSC M
SECAM K/PAL
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL K
SECAM K
NTSC M
SECAM G
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
G
G
G
G
I
G
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL G
PAL G
PAL G
NTSC M
PAL B
NTSC M
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
G
G
G
I
PAL N
NTSC M
NTSC M
PAL G
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ZAIRE
ZAMBIA
ZIMBABWE
PAL B
SECAM K1
PAL B
PAL B
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PAL G
PAL G
PAL G
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1
2
3
4
5
6
72 MHz Low
54
Low
60
Low
66
Low
78
Low
84
Low
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
174
180
186
192
198
204
210
High
High
High
High
High
High
High
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
120
126
132
138
144
150
156
162
168
216
222
228
234
240
246
252
258
264
270
276
282
288
294
300
306
312
318
324
330
336
342
348
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Mid
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Super
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
(ATC)
(ATC)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
(VAR)
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
AA,
BB,
CC,
DD,
EE,
FF,
GG,
HH,
II,
W+1
W+2
W+3
W+4
W+5
W+6
W+7
W+8
W+9
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46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
354
360
366
372
378
384
390
396
402
408
414
420
426
432
438
444
450
456
462
468
474
480
486
492
498
504
510
516
522
528
534
540
546
552
558
564
570
576
582
588
594
600
606
612
618
624
630
636
642
90
96
102
108
114
648
654
660
666
672
678
684
690
696
702
708
714
720
726
732
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Hyper
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Low
Low
Low
Low
Low
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
(HAM)
(HAM)
(HAM)
(HAM)
(HAM)
(HAM)
(RA)
(FM)
(FM)
(FM)
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JJ, W+10
KK, W+11
LL, W+12
MM, W+13
NN, W+14
OO, W+15
PP, W+16
QQ, W+17
RR, W+18, C62
SS, W+19, C63
TT, W+20, C64
UU, W+21, C65
VV, W+22, C66
WW, W+23, C67
AAA, W+24, C68
BBB, W+25, C69
CCC, W+26, C70
DDD, W+27, C71
EEE, W+28
U14, FFF, W+29
U15, GGG, W+30
U16, HHH, W+31
U17, III, W+32
U18, JJJ, W+33
U19, KKK, W+34
U20, LLL, W+35
U21, MMM, W+36
U22, NNN, W+37
U23, OOO, W+38
U24, PPP, W+39
U25, QQQ, W+40
U26, RRR, W+41
U27, SSS, W+42
U28, TTT, W+43
U29, UUU, W+44
U30, VVV, W+45
U31, WWW, W+46
U32, AAAA, W+47
U33, BBBB, W+48
U34, CCCC, W+49
U35, DDDD, W+50
U36, EEEE, W+51
U37, FFFF, W+52
U38, GGGG, W+53
U39, HHHH, W+54
U40, IIII, W+55
U41, JJJJ, W+56
U42, KKKK, W+57
U43, LLLL, W+58
A-5, C57, J57
A-4, C58, J58
A-3, C59, J59
A-2, C60, J60, G60
A-1, C61, J61, G61
U44, MMMM, W+59
U45, NNNN, W+60
U46, OOOO, W+61
U47, PPPP, W+62
U48, QQQQ, W+63
U49, RRRR, W+64
U50, SSSS, W+65
U51, TTTT, W+66
U52, UUUU, W+67
U53, VVVV, W+68
U54, WWWW, W+69
U55, AAAAA, W+70
U56, BBBBB, W+71
U57, CCCCC, W+72
U58, DDDDD, W+73
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115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
738
744
750
756
762
768
774
780
786
792
798
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
Ultra
U59,
U60,
U61,
U62,
U63,
U64,
U65,
U66,
U67,
U68,
U69,
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm#tvttips
EEEEE,
FFFFF,
GGGGG,
HHHHH,
IIIII,
JJJJJ,
KKKKK,
LLLLL,
MMMMM,
NNNNN,
OOOOO,
W+74
W+75
W+76
W+77
W+78
W+79
W+80
W+81
W+82
W+83
W+84
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PAL-plus
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"I wonder if you could tell me about PAL-Plus. The last time I was in Germany was in '84 so
I've been out of touch with them."
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1. Decrease of the horizontal deflection amplitude, this gives black bars left and right.
2. Horizontal interpolation, to convert N pixels to 3/4*N pixels. Both modes may be called "4:3" or
"normal".
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3. Non-linear horizontal deflection waveform, called "Panorama mode" by JVC, works by increasing
the S-capacitor value.
4. Non-linear horizontal interpolation, called "Superwide" by Philips, works with an advanced
sample-rate converter.
With both modes, the left and right edges of the picture will be stretched to fill the left and right bars, but
the aspect ratio of the centre part of the picture will hardly be affected.
Interesting, huh?
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I've noticed that on a lot of sets that 60Hz pictures go off the screen a bit (vertically), and the OSD is
stretched with it.
As for multi-region TV sets, most sets sold in the British Isles only receive PAL I RF transmissions, but
I've seen some cheaper TVs sold in Ireland with PAL G as well. However, I have seen a widescreen
Philips set (circa 2000, 32"?) that actually had a country selection menu - and it was definitely changing to
the different PAL systems and to SECAM when I put it on France. I personally haven't seen other TVs
like this, but there probably are others.
In the Middle East, though, it's a totally different story. In Saudi Arabia, anyway, all TV sets and VCRs
had at least PAL (dunno which one) and MESECAM support. Most VHS VCRs had NTSC 4.43 playback,
you could get multi-region TVs which had support for PAL, SECAM, NTSC 4.43 and NTSC 3.58. I had a
multi-region Daewoo TV which had 4 LEDs below the screen to tell you which system you were watching
- how nice!
Service Information
Advanced TV troubleshooting
If the solutions to your problems have not been covered in this document, you still have some options
other than surrendering your TV to the local service center or the dumpster.
Also see the related document: Troubleshooting and Repair of Consumer Electronic Equipment.
Manufacturer's service literature: Service manuals are available for a great deal of consumer electronics.
Once you have exhausted the obvious possibilities, the cost may be well worth it. Depending on the type
of equipment, these can range in price from $10-50 or more. Some are more useful than others. However,
not all include the schematics so if you are hoping to repair an electronic problem try to check before
buying.
Inside cover of the equipment: TVs often have some kind of circuit diagram pasted inside the back cover.
In the old days, this was a complete schematic. Now, if one exists at all, it just shows part numbers and
location for key components - still very useful. Some TVs - as late as 10 years ago, maybe even now included a complete schematic with the product information and owner's manual. I have a 1984 Mitsubishi
which has this. It is, however, the exception rather than the rule anymore.
Sams' Photofacts (http://www.samswebsite.com/): These have been published for over 45 years (I don't
know for how long but I have Sams' for a 1949 portable (3 inch) Pilot TV - about as portable as an office
typewriter (if you remember what one of those was like) and are generally the best most consistent source
of service info for TVs (nearly every model that has ever been sold), radios, some VCRs and other
consumer electronics. For TV servicing, they are indispensable.
There are some Computerfacts but the number of these is very limited. The VCRfacts are also somewhat
limited and the newer ones tend to have strictly (obvious) mechanical information.
Even if they don't list your model, they may have a folder for one using the same chassis so search by
chassis number as well. Even if this doesn't help, there still may be a folder for models that are similar
enough to be of value (though you really have to be in the library to be able to determine this by looking
at the circuit diagrams or photos) so check out folders for other model numbers that are close to the one
you really want.
You can search this site to determine if they have a folder for your model. Service info (EFacts) for most
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models manufactured after 1992 is available in electronic form (currently) about $11. These are similar to
the print PhotoFacts but may be ordered on-line and will arrive via email within 1 business day. The hard
copy versions are also available from major electronics distributors but may be more expensive than the
EFacts. However, I don't know how quickly the Photofact is created after a new model is introduced. So,
if your set is just out of warranty, it's possible that none is available.
Sams' Photofacts are also often available (for photocopy costs) from your local large public library which
may subscribe to the complete series.
One advantage of the Sams' info is that it is compiled in a very consistent format so that once you are
familiar with one model TV, it is easy to transfer that knowledge to any other. They provide waveforms at
key locations and DC voltage measurements almost everywhere. Additional info such as IC pin to ground
and coil resistances are often provided as well. The manufacturer's service manuals are generally not
nearly as complete.
Note that I have no connection with Sams Technical Publishing (formerly Howard Sams).
Elsewhere around the world, libraries may also have Sams' or other service information:
(From: Chris Laudan ([email protected]).)
This is true here in UK too, though not Sams photofacts, just schematics issued by manufacturers. Go to
the reference library and ask for Video and TV service manuals, most main libraries carry a good
selection.
(From: Michael Covington ([email protected]).)
Concerning Sams' Photofacts, here is a bit of history that seems to be very little known:
The name "Sams" is not an acronym, nor is it "Sam." It's the last name of Howard W. Sams, who founded
the Howard Sams publishing company (now Sams Technical Publishing). Accordingly, they are "Sams'
Photofacts" rather than any of various other spellings that we often see on the net.
And they're a great product. Apparently "Howard W. Sams & Co., Indianapolis, Indiana" is a sufficient
address to reach them. So is 1-800-GAT-SAMS.
How to locate service info when all the little stickers have fallen off
On newer TVs, the chassis number may be printed on the mainboard.
(From: "Clifton T. Sharp, Jr."
Somewhere on the chassis there may be an inked chassis number; an example for one color set was
TS-914. A chassis number will at least get you some service information, and should be all you need
unless you plan to try to get cabinet parts for it (chortle guffaw titter). Number should be findable on the
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back of the chassis (i.e. where the pots are mounted through the chassis).
1-800-949-4999
Mitsubishi
1-800-552-8324
NAP
1-900-896-8324
Zenith
1-800-874-1930
1-800-856-0981
1-312-745-5154
Sanyo
1-800-877-5032
Panasonic
1-201-348-7957
1-201-348-7958
1-201-392-6961
1-201-392-6992
Steve Long
Web resources
Many manufacturers are now providing extensive information via the World Wide Web. The answer to
you question may be a mouse click away. Perform a net search or just try to guess the manufacturer's
home page address. The most obvious is often correct. It will usually be of the form "http://www.xxx.com"
where xxx is the manufacturers' name, abbreviation, or acronym. For example, Hewlett Packard is hp, Sun
Microsystems is sun, Motorola is, you guessed it, motorola. Electronic parts manufacturers often have
detailed datasheets for their product offerings. For example:
Hitachi Service Manauls (Requires registration but should be free)
Parts information
I have found one of the most useful single sources for general information on semiconductors to be the
ECG Semiconductors Master Replacement Guide, about $6 from your local Philips distributor. STK, NTE,
and others have similar manuals. The ECG manual will enable you to look up U.S., foreign, and
manufacturer 'house' numbers and identify device type, pinout, and other information. Note that I am not
necessarily recommending using ECG (or other generic) replacements if the original replacements are (1)
readily available and (2) reasonably priced. However, the cross reference can save countless hours
searching through databooks or contacting the manufacturers. Even if you have a wall of databooks, this
source is invaluable. A couple of caveats: (1) ECG crosses have been known to be incorrect - the
specifications of the ECG replacement part were inferior to the original. (2) Don't assume that the
specifications provided for the ECG part are identical to the original - they may be better in some ways.
Thus, using the ECG to determine the specifications of the parts in your junk bin can be risky.
Other cross reference guides are available from the parts source listed in the section: Repair parts sources.
Suggested references
Some good sources for technology information:
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Interchangeability of components
The question often arises: If I cannot obtain an exact replacement or if I have a monitor, TV, or other
equipment carcass gathering dust, can I substitute a part that is not a precise match? Sometimes, this is
simply desired to confirm a diagnosis and avoid the risk of ordering an expensive replacement and/or
having to wait until it arrives.
For safety related items, the answer is generally NO - an exact replacement part is needed to maintain the
specifications within acceptable limits with respect to line isolation, X-ray protection and to minimize fire
hazards. Typical parts of this type include flameproof resistors, some types of capacitors, and specific
parts dealing with CRT high voltage regulation. However, during testing, it is usually acceptable to
substitute electrically equivalent parts on a temporary basis. For example, an ordinary 1 ohm resistor can
be substituted for an open 1 ohm flameproof resistor to determine if there are other problems in the
horizontal deflection circuits before placing an order - as long as you don't get lazy and neglect to install
the proper type before buttoning up the monitor or TV.
For other components, whether a not quite identical substitute will work reliably or at all depends on many
factors. Some deflection circuits are so carefully matched to a specific horizontal output transistor that no
substitute will be reliable.
Here are some guidelines:
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1. Fuses - exact same current rating and at least equal voltage rating. I have often soldered a normal
3AG size fuse onto a smaller blown 20 mm long fuse as a substitute.
2. Resistors, capacitors, inductors, diodes, switches, potentiometers, LEDs, and other common parts except for those specifically marked as safety-critical - substitution as long as the replacement part
fits and specifications should be fine. It is best to use the same type - metal film resistor, for
example. But for testing, even this is not a hard and fast rule and a carbon resistor should work just
fine.
3. Rectifiers - many are of these are high efficiency and/or fast recovery types. Replacements should
have at equal or better PRV, Imax, and Tr specifications.
4. Posistors - many of these are similar. Unfortunately, the markings on the devices are generally pretty
useless in determining their ratings. Note, however, that the prices for replacement posistors may be
quite reasonable from the original manufacturer so it may not make sense to take the risk of using
an unknown part.
(From: Stefan Huebner ([email protected]).)
In most cases you can use a standard 3-terminal-device, the resistance of the temperature
dependent resistors in it are nearly identical. Here is a list of possible replacement devices:
380000-01, 24340521, 2199-603-1201, 163-024A, 163-035A, CO2200-N66, C8ROH,
QX265P05503, 32112026, 4822-A1-11240148, 02199-003-120, 15-08-001A, 5391560067,
F400001.
5. Transistors and thyristors (except HOTs and SMPS choppers) - substitutes will generally work as
long as their specifications meet or exceed those of the original. For testing, it is usually OK to use
types that do not quite meet all of these as long as the breakdown voltage and maximum current
specifications are not exceeded. However, performance may not be quite as good. For power types,
make sure to use a heatsink.
Also see the section: Replacement power transistors while testing.
6. Horizontal output (or SMPS) transistors - exact replacement is generally best but except for very
high performance monitors, generic HOTs that have specifications that are at least as good will work
in many cases. Make sure the replacement transistor has an internal damper diode if the original had
one. For testing with a series light bulb, even a transistor that doesn't quite meet specifications
should work well enough (and not blow up) to enable you to determine what else may be faulty. The
most critical parameters are Vceo/Vcbo, IC, and Hfe which should all be at least equal to the
original transistor. I have often used by favorite BU208D as a temporary substitute for other HOTs
and SMPS (chopper) transistors. Make sure you use a heatsink and thermal grease in any case even if you have to hang the assembly by a cable tie to make it fit.
For that matter, you can usually substitute a similar HOT with the D suffix instead of the A (or no)
suffix. These have a built-in damper diode and two in parallel (the external one) will not hurt (or
remove it). Naturally, the reverse is not true since a damper diode IS essential and the HOT will
probably not last beyond the click of the power relay without one!
On SVGA monitors, there will likely be additional circuitry between the HOT and the damper so
this trick doesn't work for them.
However, using a HOT with much better specs may actually result in early failure due to excessive
heating from insufficient and/or suboptimal base drive. See the document: "TV and Monitor
Deflections Systems" for more info.
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For more information, see the document: TV and Monitor Deflection Systems.
7. Deflection yokes - in the old days, particularly for B/W TVs, all of these were quite similar. It was
common to just swap with one that fit physically and at most need to adjust or change a width coil.
With color TVs and high performance multiscan monitors, this is no longer the case. Sometimes it
will work but other times the power supply won't even be able to come up as a result of the
impedance mismatch due to different coils and pole piece configurations. In addition, there may be
other geometry correction coils associated with the yoke that could differ substantially.
However, if you are really determined, see the section: Swapping of deflection yokes.
Also see the section: Replacement power transistors while testing.
8. Standby power transformer - this most likely only has a single secondary so locating a standard UL
approved (for safety reasons) power transformer with the same output voltage should not be
difficult.
Check the service manual or the Sams' Photofact for the set to determine the required output
voltage and if a centertap is needed. Current should be quite low.
9. CRTs - aside from the issues of physical size and mounting, many factors need to be considered.
These include deflection angle, neck diameter, base pinout, focus and screen voltage requirements,
purity and convergence magnets, etc. Color CRT replacement is rarely worth the effort in any case
but trying to substitute a different CRT is asking for frustration. For monochrome CRTs, there is less
variation and this may be worth a try.
10. The following are usually custom parts and substitution of something from your junk box is unlikely
to be successful even for testing: flyback (LOPT) and SMPS transformers, interstage coils or
transformers, microcontrollers, and other custom programmed chips.
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B C E
Some other transistor types use the same pinout (TO66 for metal can, TO218 and TO220 for plastic tab)
but not all. However, for horizontal output transistors, these pinouts shouuld be valid.
Note that those with a built in damper diode may read around 50 ohms between B and E (near 0 on the
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diode test range) - this is normal as long as the resistance is not really low like under 10 ohms.
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make sure the substitute is a good match and that there are no other problems such as a weak H drive
signal. The input current is just not a good enough indicator. I have been using a WCF (well calibrated
finger) for years. For me, the rule of thumb, quite literally, is: if you can not hold your finger on it, it's
running too hot, and will probably fail prematurely. Touching the case of the transistor or heat sink is
tricky....
Metal case transistors will be connected to the collector and have a healthy pulse (>1,200 V peak!) and
even with plastic case tab transistors, the tab will be at this potential. It is best to do this only after the
power is off and the B+ has discharged. In addition, the HOT may be hot enough to burn you.
A better method is the use of an indoor/outdoor thermometer. I bought one recently from Radio Shack for
about $15 (63-1009). It has a plastic 'probe' on the end of a 10' cable as the outdoor sensor. With a large
alligator clip, I just clamp the sensor to the heat sink near the transistor and set up the digital display near
the TV set to monitor the temperature. The last TV I used it on was a 27" Sanyo that had a shorted H.
output and an open B+ resistor. Replacement parts brought the set back to life and the flyback pulse
looked OK, but the transistor was getting hot within 5 minutes... up to 130 degrees before I shut it down
and started looking for the cause. I found a 1 uF 160 volt cap in the driver circuit that was open. After
replacing the cap, I fired up the set again and monitored the heat sink as before. This time, the
temperature slowly rose to about 115 degrees and stayed there. I ran the set all day and noticed little
variation in the measurement. Test equipment doesn't have to cost a fortune.
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Swapping of CRTs
Given the problems of just replacing a CRT with an identical new one, it isn't surprising that attempting to
substitute a CRT which is not the same type will result in difficulties - to say the least. Obviously, the
closer in size, scan rate (for monitors), and deflection angle, the more likely the chances of success.
Where the alternative is to junk the TV or monitor, it may be worth a shot - and you may get lucky!
It may be best to transfer as much as possible with the CRT - yoke and purity and convergence magnets.
The connectors to the yoke may need to be changed but this may be the least of your problems.
Difference in yoke impedance and other characteristics may result in anything from incorrect size to a
truly spectacular melt-down! The latter is much more likely with SVGA monitors compared to similar
size/deflection angle TVs.
Where the neck size is the same, the yoke can be moved from one CRT to the other but you will have to
do a complete purity and convergence set up and even then you may have uncorrectable convergence
errors. See the section: Swapping of deflection yokes.
(From: J. G. Simpson ([email protected]).)
Monitors are generally designed by choosing a CRT, then the EHT, then designing a yoke to scan the CRT,
then designing a driver circuit to drive the yoke.
In a CRT test lab it's common to have variable supplies for EHT and other voltages, a small selection of
yokes, and variable amplitude drive circuits.
EHT affects scan sensitivity, brightness, spot size. You can't get high brightness and small spot size on a
large monitor with 3 kV of EHT. Virtually every variable has some effect on convergence. Spot size is
important, in as much as you want most of it on the phosphor and not the shadow mask.
Provided the neck size is the same you can swap tubes in yokes but don't expect it to work very well.
Different tube manufacturers may use radically different gun structures. A given yoke and its driver may
give underscan or overscan and it's pretty well certain that convergence will be way off.
The military spends a small fortune on trying to get the drop into the yoke and it flies with no adjustment
or convergence CRT. For the rest of us swapping a CRT is a pain in the butt.
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Larger components like electrolytic capacitors are often secured to the circuit board with some sort of
adhesive. Originally, it is white and inert. However, with heat and age, some types decay to a brown,
conductive and/or corrosive material which can cause all sorts of problems including the creation of high
leakage paths or dead shorts and eating away at nearby wiring traces.
The bottom line: Most of the time, this stuff serves no essential purpose anyhow and should be removed.
A non-corrosive RTV or hot-melt glue can be used in its place if structural support is needed.
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