HOW To BUILD YOUR OWN DIY Treated Pine PERGOLA

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The document outlines the steps to build a DIY pergola using treated pine, including planning, design, construction of posts, beams, rafters and bracing.

The main steps include: 1) Planning and design, 2) Constructing footings, 3) Erecting posts, 4) Installing beams, 5) Adding rafters, bracing and battens.

The size of beams and rafters is determined by the timber stress grade, post/beam spacing, and span of the rafters/beams based on tables provided in the document.

HOW to BUILD YOUR OWN DIY

treated pine PERGOLA

www.penrosepine.com.au

Design
1

Plan

Draw the pergola out in plan on graph


paper and to a scale (e.g. 1m = 5 squares).
Use a grid of 3.6m or less. Support posts
will be located at grid line intersections.
Remember to allow for the overhangs of
the rafters and their supporting beams.

Footings

If the pergola is not constructed over


a concrete slab then a concrete pad is
required to support brackets. These are
placed at the grid intersections. Holes
for this concrete pad are dug 300 x 300 x
300mm deep.

Beams

These members are attached to the


posts, and support the rafters. Their size
shall be determined from the table as
follows:
a) Select the type of timber to be used
(stress grade).
b) Determine the post spacing (beam
span).
c) Determine the rafter span, enter the
table, and derive beam size.
NOTE: Seasoned treated pine sizes 70mm
or thicker, may be made up by vertical
lamination using 3.75 x 75mm galvanized
nails every 450mm.

Posts

The minimum size of posts shall be F7


100 x 100mm, F7 90 x 90mm. These
sizes are suitable for post heights not
exceeding 2.7m.

Beam Size (mm)

Stress
Grade

Post
Spacing

3.0

4.8

*5

2.4

150 x 38

175 x 50

3.0

175 x50

200 x 50

3.6

200 x 75

250 x 75

2.4

140 x 35

170 x 45

3.0

170 x 35

170 x 45

3.6

190 x 45

190 x 70

F5

Rafter span up to (m)

*Note: Maximum overhang for beams is 900mm


1.

5 Rafters
These members are supported by the
beam and they in turn support battens,
shade cloth or lightweight roong material.
Their size shall be determined from the
table as follows:

Stress
Grade

Beam Size (mm)

Rafter
Spacing (m)

*F5

F5

a) Select the type of timber to be used


(stress grade).
b) Determine the rafter spacing.
c) Determine the rafter span, enter the
table, and derive rafter size.

Rafter span (m)


2.4

3.0

3.6

4.2

4.8

600

100 x 38

125 X 38

150 x 50

175 x 38

200 X 38

900

100 x 50

150 X 38

150 x 50

175 x 50

225 X 50

1200

125 x 38

150 X 38

175 x 38

200 x 38

225 X 50

600

90 x 35

120 X 35

120 x 35

140 x 45

190 X 35

900

90 x 45

120 X 35

140 x 45

190 X 35

190 X 35

1200

120 x 35

140 X 45

190 x 35

190 X 45

240 X 35

*Note: Maximum overhang for beams is 900mm

7 Bracing

Battens

The size of battens required to support


shade cloth or lightweight sheet roong
material may be determined from the
table.
Stress
Grade
*F5
F5

2.

Batten
Spacing

Where the pergola is attached to a well


supported existing structure such as a
house or garage, additional bracing may
not be required.

Batten Size (mm)


Rafter Spacing (mm)
600

900

1200

600

38 x 75

50 X 75

50 x 100

900

50 x 75

50 X 100

n.s

600

45 x 70

45 X 70

70 x 35

900

45 x 70

45 X 90

70 x 35

Where the pergola is free


standing, bracing is required
in both directions. This
bracing can be achieved by
either inll screens, such as
diagonal lattice work or knee
bolted to the posts beams
and rafters.

Construction
3

Posts are bolted to the steel post brackets


when the concrete is at least four days old.
The bolts used should be M12 hexagonal
headed galvanized mild steel. Allow 12mm
clearance from the concrete to the underside
of the post. Alternatively treated pine posts
maybe in direct ground contact. Ensure from
your supplier that all posts which are to be
set in ground are treated to a suitable level
(H5).

Posts to Footings

Setting Out

Set out on the ground with a string line


tape and level. Locate post positions of
pergola, measure diagonals and check that
the structure is square. Diagonals should
be equal. Use a line level and a string line
to obtain the heights of the slab or concrete
pad footing. If the area is to be paved allow
a fall of 1 in 50 away from the house. Peg
the positions and note from the forms the
height to which concrete should be placed.

Footings

Dig holes to take the footings illustrated


300 x 300 x 300mm deep. If necessary box
the hole with scrap plywood or the like.
Using lengths of timber and the string lines,
position the steelwork. Check the height
and allow for 12mm clearance between the
concrete and the posts. Proprietary brands
of footings are available, but if you prefer you

can get the type shown made up. Footings

should be galvanized.

3.

5 Beams

Posts to Timber Deck

Where a timber deck exists, the post


should be halved checked and bolted
to the bearer using two M12 galvanized
bolts or coach screws. A blocking piece
nailed to the post will support the end of
the decking.

The top of the post should be halved to


take the beam that supports the rafters.
The beam is bolted to the post with 2
M12 galvanized cup head bolts. Cut
top of the post 12mm lower than top of
beam. If the pergola is not to be attached
to a substantial structure, 100 x 38mm
knee braces may be bolted to the posts
and beams to provide bracing. Ends of
brace should be 600mm from post/beam
junction.

6 Ledgers
Where an adjacent structure is sufciently
substantial to support the loading, a ledger
can be bolted to it with masonry expanding
bolts or coach screws. The bolts or coach
4.

screws should be galvanized and a


minimum of 10mm in diameter and xed
at 1200mm centres.

Rafters and Battens

Rafters should be skew nailed to the


beams or ledger. If the roof is to be
sheeted, one framing anchor at each joint
should also be provided.
If battens are used at close intervals they
may be nailed to the rafters.
If battens are to support sheet roong they
should be secured with one 75mm long
4.5mm diameter screw of each crossing.

Timber care
Cutting, notching or boring may
expose untreated heartwood.
A liberal coating of PROTIM RESEAL is
recommended to restore the protective
envelope. For more details refer to the
PROTIM Timber care product literature.
Raincoat UV Plus should be used to
reduce the effects of weathering &
maintain the appearance of your timber
project.

Osmose Australia. makes no warranties expressed or implied or as to the tness for a particular
purpose of this plan. Check with an architect, building expert or soil engineer to make sure
that this plan is appropriate for your situation and meets local building codes. A permit may be
required. Read carefully the important timber information on www.osmose.com.au <http://www.
osmose.com.au> regarding pressure treated wood before starting construction.
5.

Important Information
1.

Do not burn preserved wood.

2.

Wear dust mask & goggles when cutting or sanding wood.

3.

Wear gloves when working with wood.

4.

Some preservative may migrate from the treated wood into soil/water or may dislodge from the
treated wood surface upon contact with skin. Wash exposed skin areas thoroughly.

5.

All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction.

6.

Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing before re-use.

7.

Preserved wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with
drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as fresh water docks and
bridges.

8.

Do not use preserved wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a
component of food, animal feed or beehives.

9.

Do not use preserved wood as mulch.

10. Only preserved wood that is visibly clean and free of surface residue should be used.
11. Do not use preserved wood in direct contact with aluminum.
12. If the wood is to be used in an interior application and becomes wet during construction, it
should be allowed to dry before being covered or enclosed.
13. Disposal Recommendations: Preserved wood may be disposed of in landlls or burned in
commercial or industrial incinerators or boilers in accordance with federal, state and local
regulations.
14. If you desire to apply a paint, stain, clear water repellent or other nish to your preservative
treated wood, we recommend following the manufacturers instructions and label of the nishing
product. Before you start, we recommend you apply the nishing product to a small exposed
test area before nishing the entire project to insure it provides the intended result before
proceeding.
15. Certain metal products (including fasteners, hardware and ashing) may corrode when in direct
contact with wood treated with copper-based preservatives. To prevent premature corrosion and
failure it is important to follow the recommendations of the manufacturers for all metal products.
16. Mould growth can and does occur on the surface of many products, including untreated and
treated wood, during prolonged surface exposure to excessive moisture conditions. To remove
mould from the treated wood surface, wood should be allowed to dry. Typically, mild soap and
water can be used to remove remaining surface mould. For more information visit www.epa.gov.
17. For more information visit www.osmose.com.au / www.osmose.co.nz.

6.

guide to the HAZARD CLASSES


HAZARD CLASS

CONDITIONS

HAZARD

EXAMPLES

H1
H2

Completely protected from


the weather and wellventilated

Lyctid borers

Susceptible framing,
ooring, furniture and
interior joinery

Protected from wetting

Borers including
termites

Framing, ooring and


similar, used in dry
conditions

H2F - Conditions and biological hazard as for H2 although approved for use
Souther of the Tropic of Capricorn only. Example: Envelope Treatement
H2S - Conditions and biological hazard as for H2 although approved for use
Souther of the Tropic of Capricorn only. Example: LVL/Plywood (glue-line treatment)

H3
H3

**

H4
H5
H6

Moderate decay fungi,


borers and termites

Weatherboard, fascia,
pergolas (above ground)
, joinery, decking &
laminated verandah
posts

Products predominantly in
vertical exposed situations
and intended to have the
supplementary paint coat
system that is regularly
maintained.

Moderate decay fungi,


borers and termites

Fascia, barge boards,


exterior cladding,
window joinery,
door joinery and non
laminated verandah
posts

Subject to severe wetting

Severe decay fungi,


borers and termites

Fence posts, garden


walls less than 1m high

Subject to periodic
moderate wetting

Subject to extreme wetting


Retaining walls, piling,
and/or where the critical Very severe decay fungi, house stumps, building
use requires a higher
poles and cooling tower
borers and termites
degree of protection
ll
Subject to prolonged
immersion in sea water

Marine wood borers and Boat hulls, marine piles,


jetty cross bracing and
decay fungi
landing steps etc

Note: Please refer to the complete standards for more detailed information.

** as per AS1604 and NSW TMA

*For further information see separate brochure, consumer information and handling guide and guarantee documents.

PROTIM, RESEAL and MoistureGuard are trademarks of Osmose, Inc. or its subsidiaries. 2007 Osmose Australia # PENPDIYPERGAu_1007.

These plans have been checked and approved (at the time of printing) by
Roy B.Hoskins & Associates of Qld 4006 (Structural & Civil Engineers), to be
technically accurate and designed in accordance with the appropriate Australian
Building standards, as local & National laws are subject to change, please ensure
you check with your local authorities prior to starting construction.

7.

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