Wheel Building 101
Wheel Building 101
Wheel Building 101
stepone
stepthree
1
Valve Hole
Starting Spoke
stepfour
Take one spoke (it doesnt matter which one) and put it
into the hole to the left of the valve hole and thread a
nipple on. This will ensure that when the wheel is complete, there will be space for your air valve. Do not
thread the nipple on the whole wayjust a few turns so
that it doesnt fall off. This spoke will be called your
Starting Spoke. See figure B.
FIGURE B
FIGURE D
steptwo
tools
Opposite Spoke
Starting Spoke
Valve Hole
Valve Hole
Starting Spoke
46
stepfive
stepeight
With all of the spokes in on the one side, flip the wheel
over back to the original starting side. Youre now looking down at the wheel with the side that has all of the
spokes in the flange. Take the hub and twist it counterclockwise so that the Starting Spoke is angled away
from the valve hole. See figure H.
FIGURE E
FIGURE H
Valve Hole
stepten
Twist
CounterClockwise
stepsix
FIGURE F
Starting Spoke
Opposite Spoke
stepseven
Once you have these spokes all threaded in, you need
to drop spokes into the open holes of the original
flange that you started with. Make sure that the spoke
heads are facing the inside, or opposite of the spokes
that are already in. See figure G.
FIGURE G
stepnine
With the hub twisted and all of the spokes in the flange,
you can now start lacing in the actual cross-pattern.
Depending on what size spokes you use will also
determine how many crosses you have. Most 48 hole
wheels are a four-cross (you can use a three-cross with
a 48 but it will change the length of the spoke that you
use), this means that a spoke will cross over four other
spokes before it reaches the rim. If you are building a
36 hole wheel, you normally use a three-cross. Take
any one of the spokes that are not yet threaded in and
start your pattern by angling it to the left and going
over three spokes and then going under one spoke,
making a total of four spoke crosses. Now you have to
thread the spoke into the rim. The best way to determine where the spoke goes into the rim at this point
would be to go two spots over from where the last
spoke that you crossed is in the rim. Youll know if
youre in the correct spot if the angle of the hole in the
rim is drilled out to the same side as the spoke thats
going into it. Continue this pattern with the rest of the
spokes on the flange. See figure I.
straightening
tightening
removinghops
Once you have your wheel laced up, the next thing you
need to do is to tighten your spokes while at the same
time keeping your wheel straight.
The first step that I do is to thread the nipples that
are barely threaded onto the spokes onto the spoke
until the threads of the spoke are completely covered by
the nipple. Go through all of the spokes and make sure
that all of the nipples are in the same spot on the spoke.
Once this is done, take a screwdriver and place it in
between a cross of the spokes and push it down. Do
this to every cross of spokes on the wheel on both
sides. What this does is seats the spokes into the hub
and it makes sure that the heads of the spokes are
properly seated into the hub. If you were not to do this,
the spokes would set into the hub on their own and your
wheel will go out of true after riding it. See figure K.
FIGURE I
FIGURE K
2
Under Cross
4
1
Push Down
Last Spoke
Crossed
Over Cross 3
Over Cross 2
Over Cross 1
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the rim is out the other way, viseversa. (Figure M) Remember to use
small steps and to spread out the
pressure. Do not try to do it all
with one spoke!
FIGURE L
Squeeze Together
FIGURE M
By spending a little time and experimenting a bit, you can see exactly how much
you have to turn a spoke to make the rim
move into the position that you want it.
The one thing to remember is to make
sure all the spokes are tightened evenly!
FIGURE N
Hop
1/4
Turn
1/2
Turn
1
Turn
1/2
Turn
1/4
Turn