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CONTENTS
OCTOBER 2014
Features
37 Readers Travel Awards
This years results are in, revealing where and

how you like to travel: from airlines and favourite
islands and cities to the top hotels and spas
106
Salta This colonial town is the

gateway to Argentinas uplands a wild and
wacky place for a mind-bending adventure
120 Fashion in Mexico
PHOTOGRAPH: ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
Kick up
your killer heels in the most colourful hideaway
on the Pacic coast
130 South Africa
An exclusive rst
look at the newly transformed Singita Boulders
lodge, where safari style is being radically redened
138
Burgundy It may be the heart of

gourmet France, but are the regions Michelinstarred restaurants all theyre cracked up to be?
146
Sag Harbor Next door to the

Hamptons but a world away in attitude, this is the
low-key getaway for New Yorkers in the know
A rock formation between El Peon and Cafayate near Salta, Argentina

October 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 7
CONTENTS
OCTOBER 2014
169
68
64
In this issue
12 Editors letter
14 Contributors
23 Word of mouth The places and
people creating a buzz around the
world, from Sri Lanka to San Francisco
58 Short break Italys Le Marche

is curiously uncrowded for a region
packed with art and natural beauty.
Heres our essential three-day guide
64 Neighbourhood on the up
Vancouvers Downtown Eastside is
revealing its artistic side
68 Snapshot Swot up on the most
94
84
On the cover
Villa Sol de Oriente,
Costa Careyes, Mexico
Photographed by
Richard Phibbs
Styled by Fiona Lintott
Hair by Halley Brisker
using Krastase
Make-up by Carmindy
using Carmindy & Co
Model, Ragnhild Jevne
Kaftan by Lemlem at
Beachcafe.com
Bracelets from www.
redrubyrouge.com
8 Cond Nast Traveller October 2014
stylish library designs
71 Where to stay The new Soho

House Chicago; ve B&Bs in Bruges;
Sally Shalams Great British Breaks;
Bed-hopping with Eddie Redmayne;
The Weekender in Oxfordshire
84 Jamaica Book in at the worlds

most colourful literary festival
92 A letter from Wales, where

a room in the tower of a medieval
priory is the ideal hideaway
94 Style file The globetrotting yoga

guru, New Yorks coolest shop and
more. Beauty Model and cook Sophie
Dahl. Mens Ribs n blues in Mississippi.
On the scene Le Bristol Paris
105 Trendwatch Thinking outside

the box: architectural villas to rent
156 A travellers tales Around the

world with actor Stanley Tucci
160 In Britain What do you mean

youve never eaten a dget pie? The
Shropshire town of Ludlow has many
edible delights, but theres always
plenty to do between lunch and dinner
169 The experts Meet the ex-Army

officers wholl lead you on an epic bike
adventure. Family Hightail it to the
Greek Islands for a half-term holiday.
Health A winter-sun and spa break
in Oman. Books Celebrating the spirit
of place in Cornwall; plus, Tourist
Information for Sleepy Hollow.
Gadgets Prepare yourself for the great
outdoors. Feasting Late-season
raspberries and the sweet wines to
really make them sing. Q&A The best
riverside bars in Paris, where to eat well
in Sorrento, and other travel queries
186 Competition Win a 5,000

holiday at The St Regis Mauritius Resort
189 Reader offer Save 29 per cent

on a holiday at Sandals LaSource
Grenada Resort & Spa
232 View with a room Cabanas

no Rio, Comporta, Portugal
PHOTOGRAPHS: YVAN VAN HOORICKX; HENIZ TROLL
71
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EDITORS LETTER
ho are these ridiculous people who say they regret nothing? I have at
least six or seven, perhaps 13, profound regrets on any given day. Edith
Piaf was talking a whole lot of crapola when she said Je ne regrette rien;
its just exactly the kind of tosh youre forced to say when youre inhaling
a tumbler of bourbon with your morning espresso. People who dont regret anything
(that theyve ever done in their entire lives!) are either sociopathic misanthropes who
need to be locked up or lying to themselves because the truth would send them to the
nuthouse. My entire being is founded on a rich seam of regret and shame and anxiety
upon which I leap up and down in childish excitement to my own happy tune.
I regret, for example, saying to my friend Jo that she couldnt tap dance, so that the
teacher at my prep school made me show us how its really done then in front of the whole assembly.
I regret that in a job interview I said I had a Scottie dog when the editor said she had a Scottie dog. I
regret peeing on Alicia Harveys leather jacket (when I was in the sixth form). I regret not turning on
the tape recorder in a Cate Blanchett Q and A. I once regretted for several long years continuing
to sleep with someone Id been in love with when he was obviously sleeping with practically everyone
else we knew. On one moonlit night he lled a lake with tiny tealights and we went swimming it
was the most romantic thing anyone had ever done for me. But the next morning? When he made
his excuses and got in his car without even stopping for a blooming bowl of Frosties? Regret so bad
I could have hollowed out the canoe of my person like a spoon through a ripe avocado.
But the thing I regret most is never living in New York. Even now, when people say they are
off to live in New York, I mentally ping a conker at their head. When I rst started going there
properly, it was to visit my stepsister who was sleeping on the oor of an apartment on Mercer and
Prince. The night I arrived she was a having a silver party. She had already sprayed the contents
of her lair with grafti paint: the lamps, the beds, the photographs, the tables, the sofas, the chairs.
Later, in the early hours of the morning, we ended up in a bar in Alphabet City that was entirely
decorated with thousands of naked Barbies gyrating at alternating speeds on spokes through their
bottoms. I couldnt have been more thrilled. All that time I used to wear nothing but a blue T-shirt
that barely covered my pants and a massive pair of Nike Air Maxes. Wed pretend we were
in a band. In one week, I got offered three jobs.
But the offering of the jobs made the job-getting seem so easy as to make it spurious, and soon
I was back in London writing to Paul Dacre for an unpaid internship and watching the raindrops
sucking each other up in the race down my window pane. How I wistfully remembered those
Manhattan warehouse parties when the sun would come up and wed go to our friend Nicks house
on the Upper East Side and, as he pored over maps researching his next book, wed lie back on
his parents babysoft percale sheets and drink Bull Shots with twinkling ice in thick glasses and
listen to the streets below and the cool mesmeric whirr of the air-conditioning and talk about how
we were going to take over the world.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For people who wished theyd once lived in New
York, but are regretfully getting over it with a great big smile on their face.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3
MelindaLP
WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR

Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source
of honest, first-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this months feature on
Burgundy, we asked our contributors to
name their top destination for food
Fiona Lintott Fashion director, Mexico (p120)
Greenpoint, Brooklyn was once a sleepy neighbourhood,

but in recent years its become a trendy, foodie place. Among our
favourites are Glasserie for seasonal Mediterranean food, Paulie
Gees for amazing pizza and Achilles Heel for cocktails. Wendy
Ball and Dara Albanese are a photography duo based in New York
Tim Evan-Cook Photographer, Singita Boulders (p130)

It has to be Southern Italy. Campania is the centre of the
universe for buffalo mozzarella, Puglia for olive oil and Amal
for lemons so sweet you can eat them like oranges. All winter
I dream about spaghetti vongole at a beach bar with a cold bottle
of white wine. Tim worked with photographers including Helmut
Newton, Bill King and Michel Comte before setting up on his own
Grace Dent Writer, Chicago (p71)

Shamefully, I ate almost all of Buenos Aires on my last
jaunt to Argentina. One never seems more than three feet from
some genre of sweet or savoury pastry which speaks heavily
to my northern English roots. Grace is an author and columnist,
and writes about restaurants for the London Evening Standard
Stephen Bayley Writer, Burgundy (p138)

DIY in Tuscany. Even the simplest village alimentari will
sell you some good plum tomatoes, oil, a chunk of focaccia, a
few slices of nocchiona, a bottle of Vernaccia and a wedge of
pecorino. Perhaps a few peaches. What else would you ever
need? Stephen is an award-winning design critic and consultant
Alistair Taylor-Young Photographer, Salta (p106)

Years ago I was shooting a story on Puglia with my Italian
assistant. It was late August. We entered this town at midday.
It was closed completely. After several enquiries, we were
told to follow the bakers van. He led us to the most amazing
place in Gravina. The burrata was out of this world. Alistairs
solo show opens in Londons Little Black Gallery in October
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDOFRD; HEMIS; MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE; RICHARD PHIBBS; ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
Ball & Albanese Photographers, Sag Harbor (p146)
I was lucky to spend every summer in St Tropez growing up

and it remains my top spot for food: croissants from the Places
des Lices market, huge bowls of moules and pommes frites at
Tahiti Plage, tarte tropzienne at Le Club 55 and Pizzeria
Bruno on the last night it never changes and is always good.
On her travels for this magazine, Fionas modes of transport have
included ferries to far-ung Fogo and seaplanes in St Barths
Anniversary Wedding
Lifetime achievement Private
collection
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WORD OF MOUTH
Whats hot in California The Caribbean Fremantle Warsaw Jaipur Barcelona

EDITED BY FIONA KERR
PHOTOGRAPH: MASSIMO RIPANI/FOUR CORNERS IMAGES
There are many beachside hotels on Sri Lankas

south coast, but a new one from an enterprising
tea company is breaking with tradition
Having cut its teeth with Ceylon Tea Trails, which opened
in 2005, Dilmah is opening a second hotel, Cape
Weligama, on the south coast near Galle. What took
them so long? Our core business is tea. We never set out
to be hoteliers, says Malik Fernando, second generation
of this family business, who heads up the hotel side.
Ceylon Tea Trails evolved out of us taking informal tours
through our plantations. We wanted to do it our way,
focusing on one guest at a time. Its not just the guests
that the family focuses on: a cut of all prots goes to
their charitable foundation helping those affected by
the the 2004 tsunami and the civil war which ended in
2009. And art and craftwork from communities the
foundation have adopted will feature in the interiors at
Cape Weligama. The 40 villas and suites, arranged
in clusters around pools, have been built on a peninsula,
with sandy beaches on either side of the headland. At
the cliff-edge is a striking, crescent-shaped pool
with a bar underneath it. Design-wise, its a unique
departure for Sri Lanka, away from the familiar style
of Geoffrey Bawa and his protgs, says Fernando,
who has four more projects warming up. Next up: a
tented camp in the jungle near the Yala National Park.
Villas from about 440 half board; www.capeweligama.com
WORD OF MOUTH
INSIDE OUT
WHO IS AI WEIWEI?
HES POTTY One of Ais most striking
works depicts him dropping an antique urn
to suggest that the government is smashing
Chinas history with its new truths.
HES AN ENEMY OF THE STATE But
the government hasnt always tried to
silence him: he co-designed the Birds Nest
stadium for the 2008 Beijing Olympics.
HE PLANTS SEEDS In 2010, Ai lled

Tate Moderns Turbine Hall with 100
million handmade ceramic sunower seeds,
alluding to the fact that starving people
had to eat seeds during Maos famines.
HES ONLINE Though trapped in
China, he is still making his voice heard
thanks to his Twitter account @aiww.
HOT HOT HAUTE
How did the deliciously spicy, perfectly portable Mexican taco manage to rise from the
street to the tables of serious restaurants? Well, we have chefs Enrique Olvera
and Albert Adri to thank for that. Olveras Pujol in Mexico City, consistently
rated one of the worlds best places to eat, now a has New York counterpart,
Cosme. With its own tortilleria, sea-urchin tostadas and a charred-aubergine
take on guacamole, Cosme is pushing Mexican cuisine to ever greater creative
heights, alongside established favourites such as Alex Stupaks Empelln and
Jean-Georges Vongerichtens ABC Cocina.
Meanwhile, over in Barcelona, Albert Adri is completing his 5.0 project:
ve restaurants on one street, the Avinguda del Parallel. His nal instalment,
the just-opened Hoja Santa, is chic big sister to an adjoining casual cantina,
Nio Viejo. Having reached the point of taco-truck overkill, the time to take
this craving to the dining table is now. EMILY MILLER
PHOTOGRAPH: KATHARINA HESSE/LAIF/CAMERA PRESS; JAN STURMANN/FOR-SITE FOUNDATION
heres a grim appropriateness about the venue for

the latest exhibition by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, left.
American gallerist Cheryl Haines took proposals
to Beijing for him to put on a show at Alcatraz, above, the
long-empty prison on an island off San Francisco. Ai is
not unfamiliar with being locked up himself, having been
detained for 81 days by the Chinese state for economic
crimes in 2011. But his crimes have nothing to do with
money; they are all about memory. Where China wants
to forget natural disasters, rail crashes, Tiananmen Ai
insists on remembering. The sculptures he made with
childrens backpacks after a poorly built school collapsed
in a 2008 earthquake are touching and scorching at the
same time. His Alcatraz show will feature seven new,
large-scale sound, sculpture and mixed-media pieces on
themes of freedom and forgetting, in areas of the prison
usually off-limits to visitors. Dont expect to see the artist
taking patrons around the exhibition, however: hes been
under house arrest for three years, his passport conscated.
His work moves, even if he cannot. JOSH SPERO
@Large: Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz runs from 27 September 2014
to 26 April 2015. To access the exhibition, you need a $30
ferry and tour ticket from www.alcatrazcruises.com, which
can be purchased up to three months in advance
WORD OF MOUTH
The Princes room

at Sujn Rajmahal
Palace, Jaipur. Right,
the drawing room
and, below, veranda
This gloriously revamped palace with a colourful

past is the smartest new place to stay in Jaipur
fter founding Jaipur in 1727, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II created

a pleasure palace for his wife, the Princess of Udaipur, in
gardens just outside the Pink Citys walls. Since then, the Raj
Mahal palace housed British officers in the 19th century, became an
Art Deco home for the Maharani in the 1930s and was the royal
guesthouse, hosting Queen Elizabeth II and Jackie O in the 1960s.
Now the family is reinventing it once more, bringing in Jaisal and
Anjali Singh the husband-and-wife team behind Sujn, whose stylish
tented camps include The Serai and Sher Bagh to mastermind its
transformation. This is one of the familys most precious spaces, says
Jaisal. What weve done is classic, yet theres nothing like it in Rajasthan.
Instead of creating another fantasy India of cusped arches and carved
marble screens, designer Adil Ahmad took a amboyant approach,
drawing on the palaces cosmopolitan history. Each of the hotels 15
suites (another 15 will open next year) and public spaces is unique:
abstract white-and-pink roses on a teal background in the Jackie O suite;
vivid paisley and oral patterns against turquoise velvet couches in the
drawing room. All this is punctuated with Persian carpets, 18th-century
paintings and, in the Maharani suite, the Art Deco bedroom set used
by the Queen, which was taken from the royal storeroom. From travelling
in one of the familys classic cars to attending a private dinner in the
City Palace the current royal residence the whole experience is about
creating a sense of exclusive access. MICHAEL SNYDER
www.sujanluxury.com. Doubles from 290. Greaves Travel (www.greaves
india.co.uk) offers a week-long trip to India, including ights, four nights at
Sujn Rajmahal Palace and sightseeing with a guide, from 1,850 per person
RECEIVING THE ROYAL TREATMENT.

Bespoke millinery, minutes from Rosewood London
A S E N S E O F P L AC E . RO S E WO O D L O N D O N N OW O P E N .
+44 20 7781 8888
| [email protected] | rosewoodhotels.com
Master stroke
In his latest film, Mike Leigh puts JMW Turner in the frame
Turner seemed a very natural subject, says Leigh, sitting in a well-loved armchair in his unassuming offices in
Soho. Its obviously cinematic hes producing epic, sublime paintings. But what interested me was
the character. Heres this vulnerable, tough, complex, awed, mortal, passionate guy. Leigh is best known for
his uninching chronicles of ordinary British lives, including Secret and Lies and Life is Sweet; in Mr Turner,
Timothy Spall captures the painter in a cacophony of grunts, grumbling through his later years as he paints
in grand houses (Spall took two years of art classes), exhibits at the Royal Academy, tramps around the
countryside sketching and returns often to his beloved Margate eventually taking up with his landlady,
Mrs Booth. Although the Margate in the lm is actually Kingsand in Cornwall, says Leigh. The paradox is
that Turners classic view of the sea from Mrs Booths house is now blocked by the Turner Contemporary.
But thats the practicalities of lmmaking. We assumed, too,
that we would visit Venice but even if you arent making a
lm its the most bloody expensive place. While Leigh took
artistic licence with some elements, other scenes are recreated
from sketches of Turners. Theres one, in the old Library
in Petworth House (pictured above), we put the camera at the
exact point of view where the picture is looking from in the
actual room Turner was painting it in. Its uncanny.
Mr Turner is released on 31 October
Right, JMW Turners The Blue Rigi watercolour, 1842
PHOTOGRAPHS: NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN HAMMOND; TATE
WORD OF MOUTH
KNOWING
WHERE TO GO
STARTS WITH
KNOWING
WHERE TO STAY
loewshotels.com/regency-hotel
800.23.LOEWS
OPENING NEW DOORS.
WORD OF MOUTH
After five years of financial ebb, the Caribbean

tide is running high again, and the islands are
awash with new openings and relaunches
n Anguilla, AUBERGE RESORTS (best known for the glossy

Auberge du Soleil in Californias Napa Valley) has revitalised the
dormant MALLIOUHANA, opening its foyer through slender
arches to the surreal blue sea beyond and sprucing up throughout lightening
interiors and reshaping pools. In general, though, new owners make radical
changes to well-loved hotels at their peril, so LVMHs CHEVAL BLANC
(of Courchevel and recently the Maldives) has only added a Guerlain spa
and a subtle blush of pink to the otherwise neutral interiors at the HOTEL
ST-BARTH ISLE DE FRANCE. And CAPELLA MARIGOT BAY,
in a heart-stoppingly pretty corner of St Lucia, is a lean refurb of the former
Discovery hotel in a hundred tones of tan.
All eyes are on St Kitts, too. At Kittitian Hill, BELLE MONT FARM
opens with 84 Bill Bensley-designed cottages in a refreshingly breezy update
on Caribbean style. The clapboard buildings have louvered windows and are
surrounded by a tropical kitchen garden peanut ground-cover, fruit trees
with pick me signs hanging from their branches; theres even an edible golf
course. In the south, villas are sprouting around the beach club at Christophe
Harbour, with PARK HYATT ST KITTS due to open here in time for
next winter. And over on tiny Vieques, off Puerto Rico, EL BLOK hotel has
risen within a ligree concrete cocoon, with 22 stylish bedrooms and a new
dining room from Puerto Rican star chef Jose Enrique.
Big names continue to make their mark in 2015 and beyond. AMAN is
set to open on Playa Grande in the Dominican Republic next summer, and
ROSEWOOD will join the party in the Bahamas, alongside the SLS
and GRAND HYATT hotels coming to Nassaus hottest stretch of coast,
Baha Mar. SIX SENSES is breaking away from its usual Asian locations,
with FREEDOM BAY on St Lucia slated for 2016. JAMES HENDERSON
Clockwise from top left: a

room at Anguillas Auberge
Malliouhana; a terrace
and bungalow at Cheval
Blanc St-Barth Isle de
France; Capella Marigot
Bay, St Lucia; lobsters for
lunch on St Kitts; a veranda
bathroom at Belle Mont
Farm; El Blok on Vieques
WORD OF MOUTH
black magic
Los Angeles-based singer-songwriter Banks is one of
musics most intriguing rising stars, with her smoky voice and
R&B-inected sound set against stark industrial beats; her
lm-noir-inspired videos only add to her dark allure. She describes
her music as raw and black-and-blueish, the colour of midnight,
and her lyrics are dripping with loss and heartache. The buzz
about the 26-year-old began last year when Before I Ever Met
You was released on SoundCloud and streamed 250,000 times.
Now after two EPs, Fall Over and London, shes playing at
sold-out gigs. I want my music to affect peoples hearts, minds and
bodies, she says. R&B forces you to move and feel.
BANKS GUIDE TO LA
ON THE RADAR
WARSAW
Bright ideas abound in the Polish capitals

quirky shops and revamped factory spaces
he Communists philosophy of actively discouraging

freedom of expression and creativity had the opposite
effect in Warsaw, which has always been a buzzing hotbed
of both. And as the citys economy now ourishes, this has never
been more true, with radical changes on the streets and a cuttingedge design scene emerging. From the red-and-yellow market
booths of Serwus, left, serving a gourmet version of the original
zapiekanki (baguette crusts topped with mushrooms, cheese and
tomato sauce) that were once everyones staple diet, to completely
revitalised areas such as Soho Factory. The huge complex of
post-industrial buildings across the Vistula River includes Magazyn
Praga, one of the front-runners of Polish home design, and Neon
Muzeum, bottom right, an eye-popping collection of Communist
signage. Back in the city centre, Risk Made in Warsaw, top right,
displays its wares in upside-down interiors an inatable Malafor
sofa has been xed to the ceiling which reect the brands
back-to-front aesthetic as biker shirts, tux-style hoodies and
retro dresses are created in a monochrome-grey mix of fabrics.
Scratch beneath the tough-looking surface and Warsaw hums
with an exciting new energy. MARY LUSSIANA
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAKUB CERTOWICZ; ILONA KARWINSKA/NEON MUSEUM; CELESTYNA KROL; THEO WENNER
EAT Inaka serves delicious macrobiotic Japanese food and the

atmosphere is really peaceful. Echigo is in a random strip mall on
Santa Monica Boulevard, but it has some of the best sushi in LA.
I order omakase, meaning the chef gives you whatever is freshest.
SHOP Just One Eye boutique is amazingly curated, with a lot of
black right up my alley. The clothes at Cerre are sleek and strong
with a tomboy edge and Amoeba is my favourite indie-record store.
CHILL I hike in Griffith Park and go to the observatory to see the
stars. I meet friends in the forest room at the back of the Bourgeois
Pig, where you can drink inside a fake tree. BRITT COLLINS
Banks debut album Goddess is released on 8 September
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WORD OF MOUTH
the trends
taking off
and those
running out
of fuel
GOOGLE GLASS
Staff at Copenhagen airport
recently trialled the innovative
specs by using them to give
passengers live ight updates
and baggage information, and
Virgin Atlantic offered handsfree Upper Class check-in. Is
Glass Class the future of ying?
FREE THINKING
the roof theres a just-launched bar and drive-on
cinema (accessed from the multi-storey car park
next door). Husband and wife Kate Hulett and
Matt Bale manage the building and are also behind
lifestyle brand Kate & Abel and milliners St Saviours.
Were seeing a new wave of customers supporting
the regeneration of the city by buying from people
who create here. Its what MANY is founded upon,
says Hulett. And Bale describes their 22,000-squaremetre home as one of the most exciting space
reactivations in the world. We hope that it can be
a model for others. MAX BREARLEY
BOTTOMS UP
s Londons skyscrapers stretch ever higher

in search of space, beneath the capitals
streets a curious alternative is quietly being
explored: Victorian public toilets. In a former
Fitzrovia gents, The Attendant, left, serves at
whites and organic sandwiches on counter tops that
run between the sparkling porcelain urinals. WC,
a new wine bar at Clapham Common, now stands
for wine and charcuterie. When we rst saw the
loos they were lthy, says Jayke Mangion, one of
the owners. But there were also original mosaic
oors, London Underground wall tiles and mahogany
toilet cubicles. So scrubbed and polished the
attendants office became the bar, cubicles were
converted into cosy booths and a butlers sink is now
lled with Champagne. Meanwhile, at Bermondsey
Arts Club the loos have been given a fresh Art Deco
makeover as a cocktail lounge and a bar called Ladies
and Gentlemen is soon to open in Kentish Town.
DOWNTON ABBEY
Its back for a fth season and
now you can make like the
Crawleys and stay at real-life
Downtown, Highclere Castle in
Berkshire. Newly available to
rent is the manors gatehouse,
London Lodge, a mile down the
drive as close as youll get to
living your Lady Mary fantasy.
STATUSCATION
The new buzzword for boasting
about your holiday on social
media. Much more chic is to
follow the example of new Paris
club LIsol and ban Facebook
and Twitter. Walk in, log out.
CAR-TELS
Ferrari is on track to open a
giant, shiny-red, F1-car-shaped
hotel in Spain in 2016, and now
Lamborghini is gearing up for its
arrival on the Dubai hotel scene.
Va-va. dont get us a room.
BUTLER BONANZA
Fragrance butlers (to proffer a
tray of scents should you forget
yours), tanning butlers (to rub
lotion into those hard-to-reach
spots), recovery butlers (to cure
hangovers): luxury-hotel
service gone mad.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM BARNES; DAVE SHARP/VANITY PROJECTS
ts a sad fact that in a world of online shopping

some traditional high-street shops struggle to
survive. But what do you do when a ve-storey
department store closes its doors after 40 years?
A new project in Fremantle, a hip neighbour of
the Western Australia capital Perth, might offer the
answer. Dont demolish, send in the designers.
Thats what happened at MANY 6160, which has
turned the citys old Myer building into a creative
hub. More than 50 up-and-coming names sell
their wares on the ground oor or have established
workshops in production spaces upstairs. And on
ZANZIBAR
The Spice Island is hotting up
with smart openings from Nira
Hotels (behind Shanti Maurice
on Mauritius), Four Seasons and
Park Hyatt over the next year.
STYLE YOU CAN WEAR

ANYWHERE
earrings from the kiki classic collection

WWW.KIKI.CO.UK
12 Symons Street, Sloane Square, London SW3 2TJ.
Tel:020 7730 3323
Email:[email protected]
Readers Travel Awards
2014
YOUR CHOICE OF
THE WORLDS BEST
PHOTOGRAPH: ERICKA McCONNELL
COUNTRIES + ISLANDS + CITIES +HOTELS + VILLAS

TOUR OPERATORS + AIRLINES + AIRPORTS + CRUISE LINES +SPAS
Earlier this year we asked you to vote for the things you love about travel, from holiday hotels to
destination spas, airlines to cruise lines. From your answers we have produced this, our 17th annual
Readers Travel Awards, your choice of the best the travel world has to offer. Our final Top 100 pays tribute
to the highest scorers, irrespective of category. So this years winners are
READERS TRAVEL AWARDS
HOTELS
OVERSEAS HOLIDAY HOTELS
Hotel Saint-Barth
Isle de France
his year the

Mandarin
Oriental
Bangkok was
so ahead of the game in
ASIA & INDIA, it was
propelled to the numberone spot in our best of the
best Top 100. You raved
about its food and service,
and also singled it out for
atmosphere, but when
it comes to design, The
Oberoi Udaivilas is more
to your taste, and for
location the Taj Falaknuma
Palace in Hyderabad
seems impossible to beat.
Your favourite place to
stay in EUROPE, TURKEY
& RUSSIA is Hotel du
Cap-Eden-Roc, and you
marvel at its Mediterranean
location and beautiful rooms,
but if you are in Italy, you
yearn for the Belmond Hotel
Splendido in Portono, and
in particular for a meal on its
terrace restaurant. As regards
staff, you insist there is
nowhere better than the
glamorous Four Seasons
Hotel George V, Paris,
which scored so highly on
that criterion it was declared
THE AMERICAS &

CARIBBEAN
1 Hotel Saint-Barth Isle
de France, St Barths
94.45
2 Post Ranch Inn, Big
Sur, California 93.73
3 Parrot Cay by COMO,
Turks & Caicos
Islands 91.70
4 Eden Rock, St Barths
91.45
5 Banyan Tree
Mayakoba, Mexico
90.03
6 Viceroy Anguilla 88.79
7 Hotel Bel-Air, Los
Angeles 88.21
8 The Wickaninnish Inn,
Tono, Canada 87.04
9 The Beverly Hills Hotel
& Bungalows, Los
Angeles 86.76
10 One&Only Ocean Club,
Bahamas 86.23
11 The St Regis New York
BEST HOTEL IN THE

WORLD FOR SERVICE.
In THE AMERICAS &
CARIBBEAN, the Hotel
Saint-Barth Isle de France,

now under LVMH Hotel
Management and being
gently revamped, stole
your heart for just about
everything, especially its
rooms and atmosphere, and
this years runner-up, Post
Ranch Inn, tallied up the
highest scores for service and
77.28
its Big Sur location. But when
it comes to looks, Viceroy
Anguilla was a sure-re
winner, beating off global
competition to come out
on top as BEST HOTEL IN
THE WORLD FOR DESIGN.
Not for the rst time,
your favourite hotel in

AUSTRALASIA & THE
SOUTH PACIFIC is Huka
Lodge in New Zealand,

which you found difficult to
fault and decided should get
top billing for design and
service. Elsewhere, Qualia
resort in the Whitsundays

was rst for facilities,
peaceful Otahuna Lodge
in New Zealand for
bedrooms and Southern
Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo
Island bounced ahead
based on atmosphere.
17 Delano South Beach,

Miami 76.20
18 Sandy Lane, Barbados
75.97
19 The Greenwich Hotel,
New York 75.39
20 Jade Mountain St
Lucia 74.29
What are all these numbers? They are an index of satisfaction, scored out of a maximum of 100. In our Readers Travel Awards 2014 questionnaire (with the
April 2014 issue and at www.cntraveller.com), you were asked to choose the best that the travel world has to offer from hotels and spas to airlines and airports.
You were then asked to rate your choices according to various criteria, such as service, design and value for money. From your responses, we calculated the average
mark on each criterion, and used this to provide the overall satisfaction percentage gure that you see on these pages and in The Worlds Top 100 on page 54.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW ROWAT
84.38
12 Beverly Wilshire,
Beverly Hills (A Four
Seasons Hotel), Los
Angeles 84.33
13 Explora Patagonia
Hotel Salto Chico,
Chile 83.20
14 Crosby Street Hotel,
New York 81.06
15 Montpelier Plantation
& Beach, Nevis 78.96
16 The Carlyle, New York
EUROPE, TURKEY
& RUSSIA
1 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc,
Cap dAntibes 93.37
2 Hotel Splendido,
Portono, Italy 93.34
3 Hotel de Russie, Rome
92.85
4 Le Bristol Paris 92.64
5 Hotel Arts Barcelona
92.63
6 Four Seasons Hotel
George V, Paris 91.15
7 Le Meurice, Paris
90.82
ASIA & INDIA

1 Mandarin Oriental
Bangkok, Thailand 95.18
2 The Oberoi Udaivilas,
Udaipur, India 94.71
3 Four Seasons Resort
Chiang Mai, Thailand
93.73
4 Amankila, Bali 91.68
5 Taj Falaknuma Palace,
Hyderabad, India 89.72
6 Banyan Tree Phuket,
Thailand 88.43
7 Amanpulo, The
Philippines 88.38
8 Devi Garh by Lebua,
9 Alila Villas Uluwatu,
Bali 87.41
10 The Sarojin, Khao Lak,
Thailand 85.75
11 Rambagh Palace,
Jaipur, India 84.11
12 The Datai Langkawi,
Malaysia 83.98
13 Uma by COMO, Paro,
Bhutan 82.01
14 Aman at Summer
Palace, Beijing 81.66
15 The Malabar House,
Cochin, India 79.39
16 Pangkor Laut Resort,
Malaysia 79.32
17 Park Hyatt Siem Reap,
Cambodia 77.75
18 Shangri-Las Rasa Ria
Resort, Kota Kinabalu,
Borneo 75.70
19 The Fullerton Hotel,
Singapore 74.59
20 The Mulia, Bali

Istanbul at the
Bosphorus 90.05
9 Grand Hotel a Villa
Feltrinelli, Lake
Garda, Italy 87.74
10 La Residencia,
Mallorca 85.85
11 Grand-Htel du
Cap-Ferrat, France
84.53
12 Le Sirenuse, Positano
83.48
13 La Chvre DOr, Eze,
France 83.20
14 W Barcelona
81.78
15 Hotel dAngleterre,
Copenhagen 81.06
16 Conservatorium,
Amsterdam 79.18
17 Villa dEste, Lake
Como, Italy 78.30
18 The Gritti Palace,
Venice 76.24
19 Belmond Hotel
Cipriani, Venice
75.53
20 JK Place Capri
74.91
Clockwise from
this picture: Hotel
du Cap-Eden-Roc
in 1969; Singita
Grumeti; Mandarin
Oriental Bangkok
73.38
THE MIDDLE EAST,

AFRICA & THE
INDIAN OCEAN
1 Singita Grumeti,
Tanzania 94.86
2 North Island, Seychelles
94.78
3 Soneva Fushi, Maldives
93.99
4 Kasbah Tamadot,
Morocco 93.55
5 One&Only The Palm
Dubai 92.31
6 La Mamounia, Marrakech,
Morocco 90.89
7 The Chedi Muscat,
Oman 89.36
8 One&Only Reethi Rah,
Maldives 88.85
Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt
88.75
10 Singita Sabi Sand,
South Africa 87.86
11 Frgate Island Private,

Seychelles 85.56
12 Mount Nelson Hotel,
Cape Town 84.23
13 Banyan Tree Seychelles
83.46
Maldives at Landaa
Giraavaru 81.24
15 Ellerman House,
Cape Town 79.44
Seychelles 77.86
17 The Oberoi Mauritius
76.75
18 One&Only Le Saint
Gran, Mauritius 76.63
19 La Residence,
Franschhoek, South
Africa 75.89
20 AndBeyond
Ngorongoro Crater
Lodge, Tanzania
75.72
AUSTRALASIA & THE

SOUTH PACIFIC
1 Huka Lodge, Taupo,
New Zealand 91.42
2 Qualia, Hamilton
Island, Australia 90.76
3 Southern Ocean Lodge,
Kangaroo Island,
Australia 89.37
Sydney 88.83
5 Otahuna Lodge,
Christchurch, New
Zealand 87.36
6 Lizard Island,
Great Barrier Reef,
Australia 85.79
7 Saffire Freycinet,
Tasmania, Australia 83.77
8 The Langham, Sydney
82.48
Bora Bora, French
Polynesia 81.31
10 One&Only Hayman
Island, Great Barrier
Reef, Australia 80.83
11 The St Regis Bora
Bora Resort, French
Polynesia 80.22
12 Blanket Bay, Glenorchy,
New Zealand 78.66
13 Lilianfels Resort & Spa,
Blue Mountains,
Australia 77.77
14 Bora Bora Pearl Beach
Resort & Spa, French
Polynesia 77.65
15 Longitude 131,
Uluru, Australia
76.32
16 The Henry Jones Art
Hotel, Tasmania
75.12
17 Emirates Wolgan
Valley Resort and Spa,
Blue Mountains,
Australia 73.27
18 Kauri Cliffs, Matauri
Bay, New Zealand
73.04
19 Peppers Cradle
Mountain Lodge,
Tasmania 72.84
20 Hilton Bora Bora Nui
Resort & Spa, French
Polynesia 71.45
Mumbais Taj Mahal Palace sets the standard for all hotels chosen for business trips abroad. You are particularly taken
with its service, but it does just as well for location. Also in India, The Oberoi Gurgaon was ranked highest for
facilities, and The Upper House in Hong Kong caught your attention, at least in part for its sleek design.
The Taj Mahal Palace

and, above, Huka Lodge.
Opposite, from top:
Claridges; Chewton
Glens treehouse rooms
1 The Taj Mahal Palace,

Mumbai 91.00
2 Mandarin Oriental,
New York 89.32
3 The Oberoi Gurgaon,
New Delhi Capital
Region, India 88.54
4 The Peninsula Hong
Kong 87.91
5 Ciraan Palace
Kempinski, Istanbul
85.66
6 Hotel Principe di
Savoia, Milan 83.62
7 The Upper House,
Hong Kong 83.06
8 Shangri-La Hotel
Singapore 82.17
9 The Address
Downtown Dubai 81.52
10 Hotel Adlon Kempinski,
Berlin 80.93
11 Hotel Ritz by Belmond,
Madrid 79.92
13 The Leela Palace New
Delhi 77.62
14 The Peninsula New
York 76.23
15 Regina Hotel Baglioni,
Rome 75.57
16 InterContinental So
Paulo 74.31
17 The Landmark
Mandarin Oriental,
Hong Kong 73.86
Milano, Italy 73.84
19 Hotel Astoria, St
Petersburg 71.71
20 The Ritz-Carlton
Istanbul 70.07
PHOTOGRAPHS: CRAIG FORDHAM; DAVID MATHESON
OVERSEAS BUSINESS HOTELS

UK BUSINESS HOTELS
You prefer to get down to
business at Claridges,
which cannot be beaten
for its design, location or
old-school atmosphere. Also
in London, the Mandarin
Oriental Hyde Park
bowled you over for its food,
The Savoy for its service
and The Ritz for its classic
bedrooms. But you have
to leave the capital to get
true value for money: The
Lowry in Manchester scored
highest on that criterion.
1 Claridges, London 88.62
2 Mandarin Oriental Hyde
Park, London 88.57
3 The Savoy, London 87.96
4 The Connaught, London
87.17
5 The Ritz, London 86.15
6 The Dorchester, London
85.28
7 Corinthia Hotel London
85.00
8 Browns Hotel, London
84.74
London at Park Lane
83.76
10 Bulgari Hotel London
82.87
11 InterContinental London
Park Lane 82.37
12 Dukes London 81.85
13 The Berkeley, London
81.33
14 The Langham London
80.63
15 The Lowry Hotel,
Manchester 79.34
UK HOLIDAY HOTELS
Chewton Glen is back at number one for the rst time since 2006, helped by the fact
you reckon its the best hotel in the UK for service, although runner-up Le Manoir aux
QuatSaisons is more appealing for its food and Hampshire neighbour The Pig provides
the best value for money. Babington House is still considered top drawer for design,
and Hotel Tresantons Cornish setting sealed the deal for location.
1 Chewton Glen,
Hampshire 89.75
2 Le Manoir aux
QuatSaisons,
Oxfordshire 88.20
3 Babington House,
Somerset 87.57
4 Hotel Tresanton,
Cornwall 86.44
5 The Pig, Hampshire 85.28
6 The Goring, London
83.02
7 Lime Wood, Hampshire
82.36
8 Barnsley House,
Gloucestershire 80.81
9 The Gleneagles Hotel,
Perthshire 79.85
10 The Soho Hotel,
London 79.82
11 Coworth Park,
Berkshire 79.62
12 Calcot Manor,
13 Lucknam Park Hotel &
Spa, Wiltshire 76.33
14 The Balmoral Hotel,
Edinburgh 74.71
15 The Wheatsheaf
Inn, Gloucestershire
72.71
16 Gidleigh Park, Devon
71.39
17 The Scarlet, Cornwall
70.73
18 The Royal Crescent
Hotel, Bath 70.49
19 Covent Garden
Hotel, London
69.95
20 The Idle Rocks,
Cornwall 69.01

BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD FOR DESIGN
Viceroy Anguilla, the Caribbean
Smart interiors and the Caribbean dont always mix, but Kelly Wearstlers work at
this outpost of Viceroy Hotels introduced a welcome note of Californian exuberance
to an island better known for its quiet British restraint. Wearstlers trademark highglamour quotient has evidently struck a chord: this year you decided the hotel
deserved the highest score for design.
Photographed in the Sunset Lounge at the hotel
BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD FOR SERVICE
Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris
Some things dont change. When the Beatles took suites at the George V in 1964, the hotel was
only too delighted to install a piano for the Fab Four. It was a nifty move: the instrument produced
their hit I Feel Fine. Fifty years later, the property now part of the Four Seasons group still
goes that extra mile for guests, ensuring that this year it came out on top for outstanding service.
Photographs of the Beatles by Harry Benson at the Four Seasons Hotel George Vs I Feel Fine exhibition. Courtesy of Corbis Images
SPAS
OVERSEAS
HOTEL SPAS
You praise the One&Only Spa

by ESPA at Reethi Rah for its
treatments and Parrot Cays
COMO Shambhala Retreat for
its products; the Four Seasons
Resort Maldives at Landaa
Giraavaru has the best rooms.
UK HOTEL SPAS
What is it you love most about
ESPA Life at Corinthia in
London? Certainly, consistency
is key: you gave it high marks
in every category, and a top
score for individual approach.
Elsewhere, the Cowshed Spa
at Babington House impresses
you with its beauty products
and its bedrooms, and the
Herb House at Lime Wood
in the New Forest is greatly
admired for its treatments.
DESTINATION SPAS
Balis COMO Shambhala Estate is your favourite destination spa in the world,
thanks to its exercise programme and pampering products. The Brenners
Park-Hotel & Spa in Germany comes out ahead for treatments, and old faithful
Chiva-Som International Health Resort for its individual approach.
1 COMO Shambhala
Estate, Bali 92.96
2 Brenners Park-Hotel
& Spa, Baden-Baden,
Germany 91.88
3 Parkhotel Igls,
Austria 89.50
4 Chiva-Som
International Health
Resort, Hua Hin,
Thailand 89.31
Thailand 88.49
6 Lefay Resort & Spa
Lago di Garda,
Italy 87.05
7 The BodyHoliday
LeSport, St Lucia
85.65
8 Grayshott,
Surrey 84.92
9 Canyon Ranch
in Lenox,
Massachusetts,
USA 84.14
10 Ananda in the
Himalayas,
India 82.26
11 Espace Henri
Chenot, Palace
Merano, Italy 80.33
12 Les Sources
de Caudalie,
Bordeaux,
France 79.17
13 SHA Wellness
Clinic, Alicante,
Spain 79.02
14 The Original FX
Mayr Health
Center, Carinthia,
Austria 78.55
15 Terme di Saturnia
Spa & Golf Resort,
Italy 76.81
16 Hotel Therme Vals,
Switzerland 76.29
17 LInstitut Guerlain,
Paris 76.04
18 Clinique La Prairie,
Switzerland 75.78
19 Monart, Co
Wexford, Ireland
75.58
20 Cal-a-Vie Health
Spa, California,
USA 75.44
1 ESPA Life at Corinthia,

Corinthia Hotel
London 90.27
2 Cowshed Spa, Babington
House, Somerset 89.55
3 The Spa by ESPA, The
Gleneagles Hotel,
Perthshire 89.00
4 Herb House, Lime Wood,
Hampshire 88.95
5 The Spa, Chewton Glen,
Hampshire 88.54
6 The Spa at Mandarin
Oriental Hyde Park,
London 87.90
7 Calcot Spa, Calcot Manor,
8 The Spa at The
Dorchester, London 87.05
9 The Spa at The
Royal Crescent Hotel,
Bath 86.93
10 Aman Spa, The
Connaught, London 86.01
11 Sequoia, The Grove,
Hertfordshire 85.61
12 The Spa at Lucknam
Park Hotel & Spa,
Wiltshire 85.57
13 The Spa at Coworth Park,
Berkshire 84.78
14 Cowshed Spa, St Moritz
Hotel, Cornwall 84.45
15 C-Side, Cowley Manor,
PHOTOGRAPH: ANNE MENKE/TRUNK ARCHIVE
1 One&Only Spa by
ESPA, One&Only Reethi
Rah, Maldives 91.97
2 COMO Shambhala Retreat,
Parrot Cay by COMO,
Turks & Caicos 91.68
3 The Spa, Four Seasons
Resort Seychelles 90.43
4 The Spa at The Nam Hai,
Hoi An, Vietnam 89.22
5 The Spa and Ayurvedic
Retreat, Four Seasons
Resort Maldives at Landaa
Giraavaru 87.32
6 LIME Spa, Huvafen Fushi
Maldives 86.33
7 Spa de Constance,
Constance Le Prince
Maurice, Mauritius 86.30
8 The Spa, The Datai
Langkawi, Malaysia 84.71
9 Banyan Tree Spa, Banyan
Tree Phuket, Thailand 83.38
10 Six Senses Spa, Six Senses
Zighy Bay, Oman 82.15
11 Blue Spa, Carlisle Bay,
Antigua 82.08
12 Spa Vinothrapie Caudalie,
Hotel Marqus de Riscal,
Elciego, Spain 80.42
13 Victoria-Jungfrau Spa,
Victoria-Jungfrau Grand
Hotel & Spa, Interlaken,
Switzerland 80.24
14 V Botanical Spa, The
Andaman, Langkawi,
Malaysia 78.19
15 The Spa at Sandy Lane,
Barbados 75.88
16 Sense, A Rosewood Spa,
Rosewood Mayakoba,
Mexico 74.74
17 CHI, The Spa, Shangri-Las
Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa,
Oman 73.12
18 One&Only Spa,
One&Only Le Saint Gran,
Mauritius 73.00
19 Spa Le Bristol by
La Prairie, Le Bristol
Paris 71.34
20 Cowshed Spa, Soho
Beach House, Miami 71.18
2014
DESTINATIONS
2014
COUNTRIES
You just cant get enough
of Italy. For the fourth
year in a row, it has
captured your heart like
no other country in the
world, gaining top scores
for both food and culture
along the way. Elsewhere,
you reckon the friendliest
people (and the best
places to stay) are found
in the USA. But the
wide-open spaces and
dune-backed beaches
of Australia guaranteed
its place as your rst
choice for scenery.
1 Italy 93.69
2 USA 92.94
3 Australia 91.06
4 Greece 89.87
5 Spain 88.93
6 France 86.77
7 New Zealand 85.50
8 Mexico 84.53
9 Turkey 83.83
10 India 82.10
11 Ireland 82.05
12 Argentina 81.06
13 Vietnam 78.75
14 South Africa 77.40
15 Portugal 76.09
16 UAE 75.66
17 Kenya 75.41
18 Norway 74.88
19 Japan 73.28
20 Canada 72.86
Furore, on Italys Amal

coast. Opposite, from top:
Four Seasons Resort
Maldives at Kuda Huraa;
Top of the Rock viewing
platform in New York;
Londons Portobello Road
ISLANDS
Thanks to high scores across the board, the Maldives is back in the prime spot
after a couple of years languishing at number 3 (it has never fallen below third place
in the past decade). This time you decided it deserved an unassailable score for
its bright-white beaches, although the primordial forests and pounding surf of the
Seychelles sent that island nation sashaying to the top of your list for scenery. Closer
to home, when it comes to delicious food and fantastic places to stay, it seems you
really can do no better than book a trip to evergreen favourite Capri.
1 Maldives 93.84
2 Greek Islands 92.18
3 Sicily 90.23
4 St Barths 89.37
5 Balearic Islands 88.07
6 Seychelles 87.84
7 Capri 85.76
8 Barbados 84.28
9 Mauritius 83.38
10 Malta 82.94
11 Hawaiian Islands 81.16
12 Bali 80.19
13 St Lucia 80.08
14 Sardinia 79.63
15 Antigua 78.80
16 Great Barrier Reef 78.32
17 Koh Samui 77.14
18 Cuba 76.69
19 Corsica 76.31
20 Zanzibar 76.26
OVERSEAS CITIES
PHOTOGRAPHS: 4CORNERS IMAGES; GALLERY STOCK; TRUNK ARCHIVE; CATHRINE WESSEL
This year your favourite city outside the UK is New York, which you gave knockout scores
for nightlife and places to stay. Paris came in at number two for the second year in a row,
while Venice gained a respectable third place, buoyed by your enthusiasm for its culture.
Over on the other side of the world, Sydney was singled out for the sunny disposition of its
citizens, and was also declared BEST OVERSEAS CITY FOR RESTAURANTS AND BARS.
1 New York 92.23
2 Paris 91.72
3 Venice 91.33
4 Sydney 89.06
5 Istanbul 88.77
6 Barcelona 86.97
7 Rome 86.67
8 Florence 86.63
9 Cape Town 85.80
10 Dubai 83.55
11 Amsterdam 81.53
12 San Francisco 79.44
13 Hong Kong 79.01
14 Singapore 78.45
15 Vancouver 76.32
16 Berlin 75.88
17 Buenos Aires 74.95
18 Copenhagen 74.63
19 Madrid 73.71
20 Boston 73.03
UK CITIES
London is where its at, especially if you are a night owl. You say that nightlife is the heart
of the capital, although when it comes to eating and drinking, Brighton pipped it at the
post and walked away with our new BEST UK CITY FOR RESTAURANTS AND BARS
award. You think Cambridge deserves a rst for culture (just ahead of Oxford) and
Bath for its Georgian architecture, and you reckon the welcome is warmest in Glasgow.
1 London 90.43
2 Edinburgh 89.57
3 Bath 88.88
4 York 88.30
5 Brighton 87.61
6 Cambridge 87.38
7 Oxford 86.50
8 Chester 85.59
9 Glasgow 84.79
10 Manchester 84.15
11 Bristol 84.07
12 Liverpool 83.52
13 Salisbury 83.07
14 Newcastle 82.94
15 Norwich 82.74

BEST UK CITY FOR RESTAURANTS AND BARS Brighton
If youre after a fun time, theres no other place in the UK you would rather be than
Brighton. This year you awarded the merry-go-round seaside city top marks for its
restaurants and bars, catapulting it to the top as Britains hotspot for dining and drinking.
PHOTOGRAPH: CAMERA PRESS
Carousel on Brighton Beach photographed by James Bedford
BEST OVERSEAS CITY FOR RESTAURANTS AND BARS
Sydney
How does Sydney do it? Well, it seems not even London, New York or Paris can
compete with this vibrant city for its bars and restaurants, which you have declared
the best places to eat and drink anywhere in the world in 2014.
Chiswick restaurant in Woollahra, Sydney, photographed by William Meppem
ON THE MOVE
AIRLINES
Flying off on a SHORT-HAUL
HOLIDAY, you favour British
Airways for its range of routes
and Aer Lingus for service,
but you rate Swiss the most
punctual. On a LONG-HAUL
HOLIDAY, you are also loyal
to British Airways, although
Thai Airways wins for food
and Virgin Atlantics lounges
are ace. Best for BUSINESS is
Emirates, winning for its food,
entertainment and punctuality.
SHORT-HAUL
HOLIDAY
1 British Airways 84.92

2 Turkish Airlines 84.68
3 Lufthansa 83.69
4 Swiss International
Air Lines 82.65
5 Aer Lingus 81.85
6 Air France 80.08
7 Jet2 79.65
8 Monarch Airlines 79.12
9 SAS 77.68
10 EasyJet 75.48
LONG-HAUL
HOLIDAY
BUSINESS
AIRPORTS
You think Changi airport in
Singapore has unbeatable
shopping, Heathrow
Terminal 5 the top places
to eat, and London City
Airport the best location;
Hong Kong International
cuts a dash for design.
1 Changi, Singapore 85.10

2 Heathrow Terminal 5,
London 84.22
3 Dubai International 83.49
4 Hong Kong
International 83.30
5 Schiphol, Amsterdam
83.27
6 Kuala Lumpur
International 82.85
7 London City
Airport 82.15
8 Copenhagen
Airport 80.59
9 Zrich Airport 78.86
10 Frankfurt Airport 78.15
11 Sydney Airport 77.17

12 Barcelona Airport
El Prat 75.54
13 Munich Airport 74.15
14 Madrid-Barajas
Airport 74.03
15 Beijing Capital
International 73.19
1 Emirates 86.43
3 Singapore Airlines 84.72
4 Cathay Pacic 84.44
5 Qatar Airways 84.01
6 Ethiad Airways 83.46
7 Qantas 83.41
8 Swiss International
Air Lines 83.29
9 Air France 82.85
10 KLM 82.63
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIEN CAPMEIL; SNAPWIRE

2 Virgin Atlantic 87.32
3 Emirates 86.80
4 Singapore Airlines 86.10
5 Etihad Airways 85.68
6 Qatar Airways 85.57
7 Air New Zealand 85.51
8 Cathay Pacic 85.23
9 Thai Airways 84.76
10 Air France 84.03
CRUISE LINES
When it comes to LARGE SHIPS (more than 500
passengers), Crystal Cruises rules the waves, especially
in its standard of service, but you really like the look
of Celebrity Cruises (it received the highest mark for
design), and for cabins and entertainment Holland
America is unassailable. For SMALL SHIPS, Silversea
sailed condently to the top of the league (an achievement
it has matched no less than eight times in the past 10
years), and you displayed a very healthy appetite for the
food served on Viking River Cruises.
LARGE SHIPS
SMALL SHIPS
1 Crystal Cruises 88.16

2 Celebrity Cruises 87.88
3 Holland America
Line 87.18
4 MSC Cruises 86.94
5 Cunard Line 85.52
1 Silversea Cruises 87.06

2 Seabourn 85.40
3 Compagnie du
Ponant 84.41
4 Oceania Cruises 83.71
5 Viking River Cruises 82.73
ORGANISERS
VILLA RENTAL COMPANIES
I Cappuccini, an
Abercrombie & Kent
Villas property in
Umbria. Below, riders
in Sumba, one of Scott
Dunns destinations
When it comes to providing

a great holiday crash pad,
Abercrombie & Kent Villas
is deemed rst in class; The
Thinking Traveller edges
ahead for its presentation
of villas, Owners Direct
for range of destinations and
Villas of Distinction for
on-the-ground support.
1 Abercrombie &
Kent Villas 89.64
2 James Villa
Holidays 88.78
3 The Thinking Traveller
88.42
4 CV Villas 87.72
5 Villas of Distinction
87.31
6 Simpson Travel 86.38
7 Vintage Travel 85.96
8 SJ Villas 85.42
9 Five Star Greece 84.67
10 Owners Direct 84.39
Carrier is your preferred

tour operator thanks to
its variety of destinations
and places to stay, but you
rate Trailnders best for
service and The Turquoise
Holiday Company for
good old-fashioned
reliability. In the specialist
category, Scott Dunn
impressed you most for
its expertise, but it seems
no company has more
rst-hand knowledge of
its subject than Journey
Latin America, while
Bridge & Wickers was
voted best for service.
1 Carrier 86.86
2 Trailnders 85.26
3 The Turquoise Holiday
Company 84.61
4 Abercrombie &
Kent 84.52
5 Kuoni 83.31
6 Virgin Holidays 82.33
7 Cox & Kings 80.71
8 Elegant Resorts 80.14
9 Hayes & Jarvis 78.89
10 ITC Luxury Travel 78.39
11 Original Travel 76.59
12 Exsus 75.87
13 Red Savannah 75.12
14 The Ultimate Travel
Company 75.02
15 Sunvil 74.06
SPECIALIST TOUR OPERATORS

1 Scott Dunn 88.12
2 Bridge & Wickers 87.99
3 Audley 87.07
4 Greaves India 86.34
5 Journey Latin
America 85.44
6 Citalia 84.25
7 Cazenove+Loyd 84.01
8 Africa Travel 83.50
9 Exodus 82.16
10 Natural World
Safaris 81.04
PHOTOGRAPH: MICHAEL TUREK
TOUR OPERATORS
18K gold with diamonds
SOUTHAMPTON LAKE TEGERNSEE SYLT PALM BEACH MUNICH

tamaracomolli.com
THE WORLDS TOP 100
1 Mandarin Oriental
Bangkok, Thailand
95.18
2 Singita Grumeti,
Tanzania 94.86
3 North Island,
Seychelles 94.78
4 The Oberoi Udaivilas,
5 Soneva Fushi,
Maldives 93.99
6 Maldives 93.84
7 Four Seasons
Resort Chiang Mai,
Thailand 93.73
8 Italy 93.69
9 Kasbah Tamadot,
Morocco 93.55
10 Hotel du Cap-EdenRoc, Cap dAntibes,
France 93.37
11 Hotel Splendido,
Portono, Italy 93.34
12 COMO Shambhala
Estate, Bali 92.96
13 USA 92.94
14 Hotel de Russie,
Rome 92.85
15 Le Bristol Paris 92.64
16 Hotel Arts Barcelona
92.63
17 One&Only The Palm
Dubai 92.31
18 New York 92.23
19 Greek Islands 92.18
20 One&Only Spa by
ESPA, One&Only Reethi
Rah, Maldives 91.97
21 Brenners Park-Hotel
& Spa, Baden-Baden,
Germany 91.88
22 Paris 91.72
23 Amankila, Bali 91.68
23 COMO Shambhala
Retreat, Parrot Cay by
COMO, Turks & Caicos
Islands 91.68
25 Huka Lodge, Taupo,
New Zealand 91.42
26 Venice 91.33
28 Australia 91.06
29 The Taj Mahal Palace,
Mumbai 91.00
30 La Mamounia,
Marrakech 90.89
31 Le Meurice, Paris 90.82
32 Qualia, Hamilton
Island, Australia 90.76
33 London 90.43
33 The Spa, Four Seasons
Resort Seychelles 90.43
35 ESPA Life at Corinthia,
Corinthia Hotel
London 90.27
36 Sicily 90.23
Istanbul at the
Bosphorus 90.05
38 Greece 89.87
39 Chewton Glen,
Hampshire 89.75
40 Taj Falaknuma Palace,
Hyderabad, India 89.72
41 Abercrombie & Kent
Villas 89.64
42 Edinburgh 89.57
43 Cowshed Spa, Babington
House, Somerset 89.55
44 Parkhotel Igls,
Austria 89.50
45 St Barths 89.37
45 Southern Ocean Lodge,
Kangaroo Island,
Australia 89.37
47 The Chedi Muscat,
Oman 89.36
48 Mandarin Oriental,
New York 89.32
49 Chiva-Som
International Health
Resort, Hua Hin,
Thailand 89.31
50 The Spa at The
Nam Hai, Hoi An,
Vietnam 89.22
51 Sydney 89.06
52 The Spa by ESPA, The
Gleneagles Hotel,
Perthshire 89.00
53 Herb House, Lime
Wood, Hampshire 88.95
54 Spain 88.93
55 Bath 88.88
56 One&Only Reethi Rah,
Maldives 88.85
Overseas Holiday Hotels UK Holiday Hotels

Overseas Business Hotels
UK Cities
Tour Operators
Holiday Airlines
Business Airlines
H

Sydney 88.83
58 James Villa
Holidays 88.78
59 Istanbul 88.77
Sharm El Sheikh,
Egypt 88.75
61 Claridges, London
88.62
62 Mandarin Oriental
Hyde Park,
London 88.57
63 The Spa, Chewton
Glen, Hampshire 88.54
63 The Oberoi Gurgaon,
New Delhi, India 88.54
65 Banyan Tree Spa,
Banyan Tree Phuket,
Thailand 88.49
Thailand 88.43
67 The Thinking
Traveller 88.42
68 Amanpulo, The
Philippines 88.38
69 York 88.30
70 Le Manoir aux
QuatSaisons,
Oxfordshire 88.20
71 Crystal Cruises 88.16
72 Scott Dunn 88.12
73 Balearic Islands 88.07
74 Bridge & Wickers 87.99
75 The Savoy, London 87.96
76 The Peninsula Hong
Kong 87.91
77 The Spa at Mandarin
Oriental Hyde Park,
London 87.90
78 Celebrity Cruises 87.88
2014
79 Singita Sabi Sand,

South Africa 87.86
80 Seychelles 87.84
81 Grand Hotel a Villa
Feltrinelli, Lake Garda,
Italy 87.74
81 Devi Garh by Lebua,
83 CV Villas 87.72
85 Calcot Spa, Calcot Manor,
86 Brighton 87.61
87 Babington House,
Somerset 87.57
88 Alila Villas Uluwatu,
Bali 87.41
89 Cambridge 87.38
90 Otahuna Lodge,
Christchurch,
New Zealand 87.36
91 The Spa and Ayurvedic
Retreat, Four Seasons
Resort Maldives at
Landaa Giraavaru 87.32
91 Virgin Atlantic 87.32
93 Villas of Distinction
87.31
94 Holland America
Line 87.18
95 The Connaught,
London 87.17
96 Audley 87.07
97 Silversea Cruises 87.06
98 The Spa at The
Dorchester,
London 87.05
98 Lefay Resort & Spa
Lago di Garda,
Italy 87.05
100 Barcelona 86.97
UK Business Hotels
Villa Rental Companies
Islands
Countries
Overseas Cities
Airports
Cruise Lines
UK Hotel Spas
Overseas Hotel Spas Destination Spas
HOW OUR QUESTIONNAIRE PRODUCED YOUR BEST OF THE BEST LIST

Questionnaires were inserted in copies of the April 2014 issue of Cond Nast Traveller in the UK, and simultaneously posted online at www.cntraveller.com.
The results were collated and analysed by an independent market-research company called Market Management. The 23 categories for nominations are listed below, with the criteria
by which they were judged. Figures for all criteria and the Top 100 are percentages representing overall average levels of satisfaction.
Countries!*!.51(01.!(1!"+.)+*!5++ (!/0+/05!+,(!Islands!*!.5!$!/(1!"+.)+*!5++ (!/0+/05!+,(!UK & overseas cities .$%0!01.!
1(01.!%#$0(%"!!/01.*0/* ./(!/0+/05!+,(!UK holiday hotels!/%#*++ !.2%!%(%0%!/(1!"+.)+*!5+0%+*++)/0)+/,$!.!
UK & overseas business hotels !/%#*++ !.2%!%(%0%!/(1!"+.)+*!5+0%+*++)/0)+/,$!.!Overseas holiday hotels: Europe, Turkey & Russia; the Americas & the Caribbean;
the Middle East, Africa & the Indian Ocean; Asia & India; Australasia & the South Pacic !/%#*++ !.2%!%(%0%!/(1!"+.)+*!5+0%+*++)/0)+/,$!.!
Tour operators !(%%(%05!.2%!%./0$* '*+3(! #!+" !/0%*0%+*.%!05+" !/0%*0%+*/*#!/+",(!/0+/05Villa rental companies*#!+"2%((/(1!"+.)+*!5*0$!#.+1* /1,,+.0
*#!+" !/0%*0%+*/.!/!*00%+*+"2%((/Spas in UK & overseas hotels.!0)!*0/4!.%/!,.+#.))!/! .++)/%",,(%(!
* %2% 1(,,.+$!105,.+ 10/
Destination spas .!0)!*0/4!.%/!,.+#.))!/! .++)/%",,(%(!
* %2% 1(,,.+$!105,.+ 10/Cruise lines: small & large ships !/%#*++ !.2%!
0%*!..5%(%0%!/%*/
*0!.0%*)!*0Airlines: short- & long-haul travel ++ !.2%!*#!+".+10!/+5(05.!3. /$!)!/%.,+.0(+1*#!1*01(%05
*%#$0!*0!.0%*)!*0 Airlines: business travel++ !.2%!
*#!+".+10!/+5(05.!3. /$!)!/%.,+.0(+1*#!1*01(%05
*%#$0!*0!.0%*)!*0Airports!/%#*!/01.*0/$+,/(%#$0%*"+.)0%+*+0%+*%!*5+"/!1.%05$!'/
54 Cond Nast Traveller 0+!.2014
THE EVENT FOR TAILOR-MADE LUXURY

TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
69 November 2014, Olympia London
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Clockwise: the Dovecote

room at Castello di
Granarola; a view from
Malatesta Maison, and
one of its sitting rooms;
Fonte Avellana abbey;
an interior at Malatesta
Maison; the pool at
Castello di Granarola
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND?
LE MARCHE
This secret slice of eastern Italy, with hidden

beaches and hill towns full of art, is perfect
for a three-day fling, says Lee Marshall.
Photographs by Stefano Scat
ome places are held back by their

names. Bastardo, a town close to
my home in Umbria, springs to mind.
Other parts of the world nd their
progress hampered by the way their names are
translated. Take Le Marche, the green and pleasant
region of Italy located halfway up the countrys
eastern, Adriatic shore. Do we refer to it in English,
as The Marches? Do we call it plain Marche,
half of its ofcial title, Regione Marche? Or
do we simply leave it in standard Italian, as Le
Marche (pronounced lay-MAR-kay)?
This part of Italy thrives on its insider status;
it doesnt do mass tourism well take the almost
entirely fake medieval fortied village of
Gradara, or the Virgin Mary pilgrimage town of
Loreto. But what Le Marche does, magnicently,
is cultured ease and rural seclusion. There are
even a few wild, ower-decked stretches of
rocky coastline with driftwood beaches accessible
only by boat or on foot.
Pesaro and Urbino province which takes
in one of these coastal enclaves, Monte San
Bartolo is arguably the least discovered
part; second homes and rental properties tend
to cluster further south. This northern swathe,
of course, is home to Urbino itself, one of
Italys great art towns. But difculty of access
(especially by public transport) means that
even this Renaissance jewel, crafted in the
15th century by art-loving warlord Federico da
Montefeltro, is never overrun with visitors.
Elsewhere, you can explore villages where the
local dialect and the moo and bray of the farmyard
are the only sounds that and the occasional
high-pitched whine of a teenagers Vespa.
Marchigiano food is varied and inventive,
a consequence perhaps of the fact that most
rural families here had (and many still have)
smallholdings with a few chickens, goats or
sheep, a pig or two to butcher in the autumn,
and a seasonal crop of broad beans, peas,
peppers, tomatoes and other vegetables not
to mention good olive oil, and the occasional
sh, either fresh or in the form of salt cod or
anchovies in oil. This region exports chefs
to the rest of Italy, and youll eat well in even
the humblest trattoria.
What follows is the story of three days, each
including one hotel, one lunch and one great
place to explore.
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND? LE MARCHE

From left: books at
Malatesta Maison; the
library at Castello di
Granarola; ice cream
from Mak gelateria
SEMI-WILD HORSES GRAZE HERE, WHILE HANG-GLIDERS SOAR OVERHEAD

DAY ONE
RURAL SECLUSION
IN THE CESANO AND
METAURO VALLEYS
THE HOTEL MALATESTA
MAISON, PERGOLA
Malatesta Maison is the labour of love of a
young Italian-Chilean couple, Carlo Ruzza
and Claudia Orellana, who restored this
farmhouse near the town of Pergola with
the help of a Paduan architect friend. His
stark, rustic-modernist approach is softened
inside by Orellanas talent for mixing design
classics with selected antiques and purposemade pieces. The three airy garden suites
are the ones to book in spring and summer;
the cosy main-house rooms are better in
autumn (when trufe-hunting weekends
can be organised) and winter. +39 0721 170
7025; www.malatesta-maison.com. Doubles
from about 95
THE LUNCH DA GUSTIN,

BARGNI DI SERRUNGARINA
The writer Guido Piovene declared that
if one wanted to pinpoint the region
with the archetypal Italian landscape,
one would have to choose Le Marche.
To narrow it down further, one would
have to single out the main square of
Bargni di Serrungarina, a hilltop hamlet
with just a dozen permanent residents.
On one side of the cobbled piazza, two
wine-barrel tables and a vine-covered

pergola indicate the presence of one of
the regions best family-run restaurants:
Da Gustin. Owner Virginio Baldellis
grandfather opened a village general
store here in 1947; today, it has become
a Slow Food-style trattoria with three
simple B&B rooms upstairs. Local lamb,
free-range poultry and steak are roasted
on an oak-wood re; all the pasta is
made by Baldellis wife, Catia. Salamis
and cheeses are sourced from the area,
as are trufes, porcini and other wild
mushrooms come autumn. Theres only
room for 12 people inside so be sure
to book ahead. +39 0721 891517; www.
dagustin.it. About 60 for two
THE ACTIVITY THE APENNINES

OF THE NORTHERN MARCHE
A road climbs to just below the peak of
Monte Catria; there are several walking
trails here, leading up past the treeline
to meadows where herds of semi-wild
horses graze and hang-gliders soar on
the updraughts. But the main draw here
is the isolated 11th-century Benedictine
abbey of Fonte Avellana, 10km south of
Frontone; it was mentioned by Dante
in the Divine Comedy, and he may even
have visited. The scriptorium, where
monks long ago hunched over their desks
copying out manuscripts, is very Name
of the Rose. www.fonteavellana.it
DAY TWO
AROUND PESARO,
WILD BEACHES AND LAZY
SEASIDE TOWNS
THE HOTEL CASTELLO DI
GRANAROLA, NEAR PESARO
Castello di Granarola was once an
important feudal outpost, where wheat
from the fertile valley below was stored
and rationed out. What you see today
is a sensitive reconstruction in local
stone. In the nine self-catering suites,
rented out by the week or for three- or
four-day stays, architect and interior
designer Marco Morosini has used new
and salvaged natural materials: wood,
terracotta, ceramics and cast iron. In
the Granaio (Granary) suite, shelves are
stacked with loaves of bread; the light
and airy Colombaia (Dovecote) suite
has bamboo birdcages transformed into
lamps above the raised sleeping area.
Theres a small but inviting pool, pottery
courses and boat trips. +39 0541 969970;
www.castellodigranarola.it. Suite sleeping
two to four from about 490 per week
THE LUNCH DA MARIA, FANO

Fano has little to detain one other than
the spectacular Mak gelateria on Piazza
Avveduti (try the pink-grapefruit-and-beer
avour) and, in the suburbs to the west,
this unmissable seafood restaurant run
THE FULLERTON HOTEL

FULLERTON WATERBOAT HOUSE
ONE FULLERTON
THE FULLERTON PAVILION
CLIFFORD PIER
THE FULLERTON BAY HOTEL

CUSTOMS HOUSE
A CELEBRATION OF
ASIAS FINEST
WHERE HERITAGE MEETS LUXURY
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and the nest hospitality at The Fullerton Hotel and The Fullerton Bay Hotel.
Prominently located in the Central Business District and the vibrant Arts and Cultural precinct,
both hotels provide spectacular views of the city and Marina Bay waterfront.
Built in 1928 and once home to the General Post Ofce,
The Fullerton Hotels strategic location and neo-classical grandeur are timeless.
Steeped in the heritage of Singapores illustrious seafaring history, the stylish Fullerton Bay Hotel
is built over the water. An intimate ambience and stunning interiors aptly capture
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1 Fullerton Square Singapore 049178

Tel (65) 6733 8388 www.fullertonhotel.com
80 Collyer Quay Singapore 049326

Tel (65) 6333 8388 www.fullertonbayhotel.com
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND? LE MARCHE
Fireplace at Villa Barocco

in Urbino. Left, cured
pork at Casa Tintoria. Far
left, Da Maria restaurant
THIS IS WHERE YOULL FIND WHAT MUST BE ITALYS MOST OVER-THE-TOP B&B
by Signora Maria and her daughter
Domenica. Call ahead to make sure theyre
open: if the shing boats are kept in port
by bad weather, Maria doesnt bother.
When you do turn up, the little something
she promises on the phone might turn
out to be wild salad leaves and bruschetta
soaked in tangy olive oil, followed by a
huge plate of steamed sh including tender
prawns, scallops, mantis shrimps, bream,
turbot and any other creatures that, in
Marias words, got caught up in the net.
The decor is all ribbons and bows, the
service charming. +39 0721 808962. Set
menu about 30 per person, including wine
THE ACTIVITY MONTE

SAN BARTOLO
If you were to sail down Italys Adriatic
coast from Venice, the very rst variation
on estuarine atness and unbroken sandy
beaches would occur here, more than
150km south, where the shore nally
rebels against the horizontal and rises up,
between Gabicce and Pesaro, into a series
of dramatic, eroded clay and sandstone
cliffs. Above are two handsome walled
villages, Casteldimezzo and Fiorenzuola
di Focara, both of which cluster around
medieval castles. The entire area is a nature
reserve, with a network of well-marked
footpaths. One of the best leads down from
Fiorenzuola, past woods of downy oak
and poplar edged with pomegranate and
gorse bushes, to the windswept beach

below, where, if you come in late spring
or early autumn, a solitary lifeguard is
often the only other human presence.
DAY THREE
IN AND AROUND THE ART
TOWN OF URBINO
THE HOTEL VILLA BAROCCO
A 15-minute drive from Urbino, Villa
Barocco must be Italys most over-the-top
B&B. Its fun and romantic, and Belgian
owner Thierry Van Meckeren and his
partner Laurette are generous and
knowledgeable hosts. You can condently
follow their restaurant recommendations
(the Antica Osteria da la Stella turned
out to be a particularly good tip), and
if youre not too hungover to cope with
the shocking-pink decor, the breakfast of
freshly baked goodies, homemade jams
and other treats will set you up nicely for
the day. +39 0722 340284; www.villabarocco
urbino.eu. Doubles from about 75
THE LUNCH CASA TINTORIA,

URBANIA
Casa Tintoria is below the cultured little
hill town of Urbania, in a valley whose
fast-running stream made this a perfect
location for a dyers workshop which
is what the stone building that houses
the restaurant once was. Surrounded by
vegetable gardens, herb patches and fruit

trees, the dining room is full of mismatched
antique chairs and tables, crockery and
chandeliers. Its speciality is a generous
succession of antipasti, including a green
salad with shavings of formaggio di fossa
and scorzone (summer trufe), and broad
beans with fresh ricotta. The ower-decked
veranda is a great place for a summer
lunch. +39 0722 317412; www.casatintoria.
com. About 60 for two
THE ACTIVITY URBINO

This is one of the most cultured and
rewarding small towns in Italy. Much
of the credit should go to Federico
da Montefeltro, the bookish warlord
who ploughed the money he made from
hiring himself out as a condottiere, or
mercenary general, into the city that was
his capital and power base. Federico
was the original Renaissance man, and
the Palazzo Ducale now housing the
Galleria Nazionale delle Marche is
his lasting legacy. Aside from the elegant,
colonnaded main courtyard, its the
more intimate spaces that really impress,
particularly the dukes compact study
with its trompe loeil marquetry panelling.
Raphaels meticulously observed Portrait
of a Gentlewoman, Piero della Francescas
Flagellation and Luciano Lauranas eerily
empty Ideal City are highlights of the art
collection. www.urbinoculturaturismo.it
P RE F E RRE D
PARTN E R
S IN CE
1974
British Airways is a name that were proud to say has been synonymous with
our own for 40 years. When we first ventured to the Caribbean it was to
British Airways that we turned to; confident that in them we would find the
kind of airline with the same values as our own. When we wanted to re-write
the rule book on luxury travel with bespoke holidays journeyed by Concorde;
British Airways showed us the way.
ITC Luxury Travel looks forward to the next 40 years in partnership with
British Airways, a company with British values, a long-standing heritage,
renowned for its exceptional service and with a passion for travel and
excellence akin to our own.
For further information call 01244 355 477

or visit www.itcluxurytravel.co.uk
8888888
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP
Clockwise from this picture: decorative octopus tentacles wrapped around a dish
of potatoes, spicy cod roe and seaweed butter with an Irish Sour cocktail at
PiDGiN; Bambuddas open frontage on Powell Street; country pt at Ask for
Luigi; an interior at PiDGiN; Duchesse Vintage & Such
PHOTOGRAPHS: EYDIS EINARSDOTTIR; JENNILEE MARIGOMEN; CHRISTINE MCAVOY/IMAGEBRIEF
Full of life in the 1950s but downtrodden for decades, this corner of Canadas funky, foodie
Downtown Eastside, Vancouver

city is being revitalised by creative cooks and offbeat entrepreneurs, says Amy Watkins
EAT
Putting the grits into
gritty, Mamie Taylors
opened last summer in the
Chinatown area of the
Downtown Eastside. Its all
about Southern American
comfort food with a twist:
sous-vide fried chicken
and stinging-nettle pierogi
(stuffed dumplings).
Ask for the Mamie Taylor
cocktail that gave this
joint its name and youll
get a spicy ginger drink and
the full story. 251 East
Georgia Street (+1 604 620
8818; mamietaylors.ca).
About 45 for two
Ask for Luigi is an
offbeat Italian in an offthe-beaten-path location
in Railtown. Be prepared
to wait for a table: the
pappardelle duck ragu and
ricotta ravioli are worth it.
The team here, including
executive chef J-C Poirier,
are also behind Pizzeria
Farina, serving up delicious
pizzas on the outskirts of
the DTES. 305 Alexander
Street (+1 604 428 2544;
www.askforluigi.com).
About 50 for two
Inspired by the childhood

Chinatown memories
of affable owner Ray Loy,
Bambudda serves West
Coast Asian food with
a French kick. Inventive
escargot with rice porridge
and owering chives is
a highlight of the creative,
modern dim sum menu.
Bartender Buck Friend
whips up avant-garde
concoctions featuring beer
syrup, hibiscus bubbles
and chicken skin rims.
90 Powell Street (+1 604
428 0301; bambudda.ca).
About 50 for two
Pop into PiDGiN for
East-meets-West cooking
from chef Makoto Ono.
Start with an oyster shot,
followed by a plate of
snap peas, mushrooms,
egg and yuzu brown
butter, washed down with
a One-Eyed Samurai
cocktail of watermeloninfused tequila, sake,
lemon and watermelon
granita. 350 Carrall Street
(+1 604 620 6400; www.
pidginvancouver.com).
About 55 for two
SNACK
Look for the neon skull:
its all that marks the spot
where youll nd Cuchillo.
The pan-Latin tapas menu
includes ridiculously good
salt-dusted fry-bread and
slices of pork belly with
corn shoots. Leave room
for a coriander-infused
pisco cocktail or tequila
ight (a trio of shots).
261 Powell Street (+1 604
559 7585; www.cuchillo.ca).
About 40 for two
Chinatowns nicest
duo, Dane Brown and
Clinton McDougall,
opened Bestie following
a crowdfunding campaign
that won them fans even
before they opened their
diminutive sausage-andbeer parlour last year.
Bite into a bratwurst and
settle into the pastelhued seats inspired by
the colour palette of
a 1974 Volkswagen, or
place your order at the

sausage hatch for latenight bites. 105 East
Pender Street (+1 604
620 1175; bestie.ca)
Check out the cycling
memorabilia and bags
on the walls of Musette
Caff, which takes its
name from the pouches
racing cyclists use to hold
food and drink. Park your
bike outside and pick up
a homemade granola
along with a cup of locally
roasted 49th Parallel
coffee. 75 East Pender
Street (+1 604 336 4171;
www.musettecaffe.com)
DRINK
Grab a hot drink for a
cool cause at East Van
Roasters. The bean-tobar chocolatier and coffee
roaster was created by
local housing charity PHS
Community Services to
provide employment. Sit
and sip while watching
chocolate-makers at work
through glass doors. 319
Carrall Street (+1 604 629
7562; eastvanroasters.com)
Originally home to
Vancouver Urban Winery,
the newly named, historic
Settlement Building now
also houses the Belgard
Kitchen restaurant and
Postmark Brewing. The
innovative FreshTap system
means you can taste a
huge range of wines by
the glass, including VUWs
own Roaring Twenties
brand. 55 Dunlevy Avenue
(+1 604 566 9463; www.
settlementbuilding.com)
WINTER VISITORS CAN GET A FLAVOUR OF THE

NEIGHBOURHOOD EVERY NOVEMBER WHEN STUDIOS
AND WORKSHOPS OPEN THEIR DOORS FOR THE
EASTSIDE CULTURE CRAWL, A VISUAL ARTS, DESIGN AND
CRAFTS FESTIVAL INVOLVING 244 ARTISTS (EMERGING AND
ESTABLISHED) IN 42 BUILDINGS OVER FOUR DAYS
Dont
miss
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP Downtown Eastside, Vancouver

SHOP
Designer Erin Templeton
started her career renting
a space in the boiler room
at Chinatowns Modernize
Tailors (established 1913)
and now has her recently
renovated studio/boutique
in the same building, selling
hand-picked vintage pieces
and her coveted handmade
leather bags, which she
says must be comfy on
a bike. 511 Carrall Street
(+1 604 682 2451; www.
erintempleton.com)
Vancouvers cocktail
cognoscenti head to
The Modern Bartender
to pick up their vintage
glassware, locally made
Bittered Sling bitters and
everything tiki-themed.
The well-stocked shop
is run by the colourful
Rod Moore, the brains
behind the Shameful Tiki
Room bar on Main Street.
28 East Pender Street
(+1 604 684 1747;
themodernbartender.com)
This is a city of caffeine
connoisseurs. The revered
coffee house Revolver
recently opened Archive
as a new retail annexe, and
its the best place to buy
beans from local roasters
and scientic-looking
brewing equipment. 325
Cambie Street (+1 604 558
4444; revolvercoffee.ca)
Chinatowns newest
collective space on East
Pender is a curious blend
of art/coffee/barbershop.
Among the shops on site
is Lukes General Store,
a pop-up selling Portlands
favourite Stumptown
Coffee as well as books,
records and skincare
products; Studio 126
for reclaimed furniture;
and Space Lab, home
to weird and wonderful
artefacts from skulls to
old typewriters. 126 East
Pender Street
One of the pioneers of
cool on the Columbia/
Pender block, The Shop
has Vancouvers best
selection of biker bits and

pieces. It is sandwiched
between the hipster nds at
Duchesse Vintage & Such
and the ever-changing
pop-up shops, galleries
and restaurants of the
Chinatown Experiment
space. Stop by for a coffee
with friendly owner and
former pro snowboarder
TJ Schneider. 432 Columbia
Street (+1 604 568 7273;
theshopvancouver.com)
EXPLORE
Take a culinary walk in
the Railtown enclave
with Off the Eaten
Track. Bonnie Todd
and Alexis Regan will
steer you towards hidden
gems in the rough, from
hearty sandwiches at
Big Lous Butcher Shop
to delicate cakes at
Cadeaux Bakery, with
stops at Railtown Cafe
and social enterprise/
restaurant HAVE along
the way. (+1 778 918
4584; www.offtheeaten
tracktours.ca). From
about 25
Stroll through the
bamboo and cherry
blossoms of Dr Sun
Yat-Sen Classical Chinese
Garden, the rst project
of its kind outside China.
578 Carrall Street (+1
604 662 3207; vancouver
chinesegarden.com.)
SLEEP
Topped with an impressive
totem pole, Skwachys
Lodge is a new aboriginal
art hotel in the heart of
the DTES. Each of the
18 bedrooms was designed
in collaboration with a
First Nations artist. Guests
can take part in a traditional
smudge ceremony (a
purifying ritual in which
bundles of dried herbs
are burnt) or visit the
homes of the artists in the
building. 31 West Pender
Street (+1 604 687 3589;
skwachays.com). Doubles
from about 115
Clockwise from above: the cycling-themed Musette Caff; Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie;
a seat in Bambudda; the Erin Templeton shop; plants in transit at Dr Sun Yat-Sen
Classical Chinese Garden; a croquet set and chair at Duchesse Vintage & Such. Centre,
models Miki Heaps and Richard Boucher in clothing from Duchesse Vintage & Such
MY Downtown Eastside
Tannis Ling
PHOTOGRAPHS: TRISTAN CASEY; JENNILEE MARIGOMEN;

CHRISTINE MCAVOY/IMAGEBRIEF
OWNER, BAO BEI CHINESE

BRASSERIE
I love Chinatown in the Downtown
Eastside because of the unique mix of
traditional and modern businesses. I grab
a coffee from the recently opened
Matchstick Coffee Roasters and lunch
from Pazzo Chow, a new, one-woman
operation that sells fresh Italian takeaway
food, including wholewheat organic
pastas and homemade mascarpone-andtomato focaccia. The Keefer Bar is my
go-to for after-work drinks: its wonderfully
dark and loud inside, but on a sunny day
the terrace catches the light all evening.
The Union also makes great cocktails.
If Im looking for presents or an interesting
piece for my wardrobe, I head to Duchesse
Vintage & Such or the well-curated
Board of Trade to check out their jewellery.
Harvest Community Foods is a grocery
store that does a mean bowl of ramen
and also sells local products such as
Earnest Ice Cream the ideal treat for
a stroll around Chinatown. Bao Bei
Chinese Brasserie, 163 Keefer Street (+1
604 688 0876; bao-bei.ca)
SNAPSHOT
libraries
PHOTOGRAPHS: SATOSHI ASAKAWA; INIGO BUJEDO AGUIRRE/VIEWPICTURES.CO.UK; SANTI CALECA; DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY;
SERGEI FADEICHEV/PHOTOSHOOT; FLOTO+WARNER/OTTO; REINHARD GORNER; LOOK ARCHITECTS; VIEW PICTURES LTD/ALAMY
Bookish buildings around the world

where the architectural style has as much
clout as the literary content
Top row, from left: the entrance to the
Bibliothque Mjanes in Aix-en-Provence,
guarded by three giant-sized French classics;
cantilevered glass pods at the Bishan Public
Library, Singapore; a shape you dont come
across very often, the National Library of Belarus
is a 23-storey rhombicuboctahedron that
reects the Minsk sunshine; with its transparent
shell, theres no need for daytime lighting at
Sir Norman Fosters Philological Library of the
Freie Universitt Berlin; seen from below,
the Geisel Library San Diego, named after
Theodore Geisel the creator of Dr Seuss.
Middle row, from left: the sail-like sides of the
Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology reect
the Atlantic glare and soundproof the interior;
at Chicagos Joe and Rika Mansueto Library,
robotic arms retrieve books from the
underground storage system; the neon
escalator at Rem Koolhaass Seattle Public
Library; its easy to see why the Philological
Library of the Freie Universitt has been
nicknamed Berlins brain; the shallow ramps
holding bookshelves at Romes Pontical Lateran
University are reected by the lines of its exterior.
Bottom row, from left: the concrete, steel and
glass Jos Vasconcelos Library in Mexico City;
6,000 windows are punched like portholes
into the Kanazawa Umimirai Library, Japan;
white staircases make the Stadtbibliothek
Stuttgart seem like an MC Escher image;
a ligree pattern of shadows cast by the
Library of Birminghams metal-ringed faade;
reading space under the diamond-mullioned
windows of the Seattle Public Library
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Price is per person based on two adults sharing a Studio Pier Pool Access Room for 7 nights staying at 5* Lets Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort, Hua Hin, Thailand on a
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WHERE TO STAY
Reviews of the month in Chicago Bruges Oxfordshire + Eddie Redmayne

EDITED BY PETER BROWNE
EXCLUSIVE
FALLING IN LOVE AGAIN
For Grace Dent, the new Soho House Chicago inspires the kind of devotion
only Nick Joness hotels can. Photographs by Dan Goldberg
I have ed to the arms of the Soho House
Group, in its many sublime forms, on
several occasions when my heart has been
fragmented. Ive checked out of life, checked
into Babington or Shoreditch, or New
York and lain under Egyptian cotton,
comfort-eating from the jars of fresh cookies
left on every bureau. I have lathered away
sadness with Cowshed products under
rainforest shower-heads and allowed the
staff to fuss over me, cosset me, fetching me
WHERE TO STAY
Clockwise from this picture: the Lobby Bar;

armchairs in the lobby; the Club Bars open
kitchen; the Drawing Room; the Club Bar;
Room 306. Previous page, the front desk, with
a quotation adapted from Raymond Chandler
plates of octopus with the lemon

segment hand-wrapped in muslin so Miss
Dent isnt offended by a rogue pip.
Obviously, Ive spent a thousand high
days, holidays and raucous hooplas within
the environs of Nick Jones Inc too. Jones
is the bon-vivant entrepreneur behind
the group, and my end-of-year accounts
suggest I may be putting his children
through school via my weekly commitment
to Pinotage and plates of spianata calabra
alone. Yet its the solitary, recuperating
times at Little House in Mayfair or High
Road House in Chiswick that I remember
most vividly. Travellers quack about the
impersonal nature of brands and chains,
but for me this is hogwash.
Soho House has treated me better than
many a passing beau. Ill always be at home
in a club that vets membership harshly
against merchant bankers, adores Nigella
Lawson, allows me to take tea downwind
of the Pet Shop Boys, has held my hand
when I wrote at least three of my novels,
and actively discourages the presence of
one woman life-hurricane Lindsay Lohan.
I am this place, it is me.
Still, I didnt ee to the new Chicago
House the newest branch and largest to
TRAVELLERS MAY
QUACK ABOUT THE
IMPERSONAL NATURE
OF BRANDS AND
CHAINS, BUT FOR ME
THIS IS HOGWASH
date in search of succour. I scampered
there with a joyful, curious heart. Like
many Brits, I have no true grip on the
psycho-geography of Chicago. Rarely does
an erudite soul need prodding to name
the personality of New York, Los Angeles
or Las Vegas, but mention Chicago and
one will be greeted by non-committal
mumbling about strong winds, quiche-like
pizza and, at a push, the natural resting
place of Barack Obama.
My rst Chicago lesson was not to waste
a good stomach rumble on that touristy
pizza stodge. The hotel is a six-storey
converted belt warehouse in the West Loop
foodie nirvana, among buzz-joints such
as Girl & the Goat, Au Cheval, Next and
Aviary. I crave ferociously to hole up in
one of the medium size rooms in truth
more capacious than an average British
at during a harsh Chicago winter. I will
dress only to eat at the in-house Pizza East,
take boxing classes in the gyms full-sized
ghting ring, or have my antlers led in the

Cowshed spa while watching one of the
cute retro Fifties TVs. I will brave the cold
only for supper at the utterly glorious,
serious-about-beer restaurant The Publican.
This city is deadly passionate about food.
The British Soho House devotee may
feel in Chicago incessantly wowed by the
sheer luxury of space. Here is Shoreditch
Houses pool area, but triple the size:
bigger and decidedly better. Heres an
oaky, elegant lobby in a Little House
style, but in Noahs Ark proportions with
six 10ft-long antique chandeliers. Heres
a grand and grandiose mash-up of Soho
Houses screening room with the Electric
Cinemas scarlet velvet seats. Yes, there
is work by Chicago-based artists woven
through the structure, but several other
things fridges, oorboards, teacups,
lockers have a recognisable signature
look. Ah, the intoxicating loveliness of
the same. Plans are afoot to allow guests
to buy interior-design items online, which
leaves me slightly disconcerted. One cant
do Soho House in ones own home. Lifes
too short to wrap a lemon. But God, could
I spend some money trying.
During my visit theres fervour about the
forthcoming Lollapalooza festival, with
the House hosting many of the headlining
bands and a whiff-whaff tournament as
Boris Johnson calls ping-pong between
Arctic Monkeys, Kings of Leon and
Skrillex. But Chicago Houses hook can
never be as a celebrity haunt. This isnt
London or LA. Chicago membership has
been delicately inveigled among artists,
creatives and, as Nick Jones put it to me,
anyone who doesnt take themselves
massively seriously. Its not about creative
success; one can be merely creative in
ones head. Above all, I want people who
know how to conduct themselves. Not
ashy, not loud, not conceited.
I must ask you, I said, are you aware
that your Houses are often lled with
people like me drinking Earl Grey in
bathrobes, escaping the world, needing
to be looked after, a bit like a modernworld recuperation unit? He laughed
and admitted he heard this type of thing
frequently. I really started all of this,
he said, gloriously earnestly, as I want
people to have a nice time.
SOHO HOUSE CHICAGO,
113125 NORTH GREEN STREET,
CHICAGO (WWW.SOHO
HOUSECHICAGO.COM).
DOUBLES FROM ABOUT 195
WHERE TO STAY
FIVE GREAT GUESTHOUSES IN
BRUGES
Period-piece hideaways to suit any antique-foraging trip. By Lisa Johnson
CHIC SECLUSION
NUMBER 11
A few steps away from the Groenerei canal, these three 17th-century gable houses contain four wooden-oored bedrooms, which
combine antique and contemporary furniture, tactile fabrics, interesting prints and fresh owers. The Grey-white attic room has an extra
bed on a mezzanine; rst-oor Vanilla has a claw-footed bath. But the one to go for is the deluxe suite, a ground-oor apartment with its
own entrance, Champagne-stocked fridge and a bathtub for two. A generous Brugeois breakfast (eggs, cheese, fruit, yogurt and pastries)
is served in the stripped-pine salon, where chandeliers hang alongside a surreal, Bosch-like painting by Czech artist (and former owner)
Pavel. Just outside is a leafy courtyard garden tended by current owner Carine Destrooper-Deprez. Head to the kitchen for biscuits
and truffles if youre peckish (Carine also runs her own chocolate company); restaurants are a short walk away we recommend Bistro
Christophe and Merveilleux. Peerdenstraat 11 (+32 50 330675; www.number11.be). Doubles from about 120
CINEMATIC FAVOURITE
BONIFACIUS
Used by Ralph Fiennes, Colin Farrell and Brendan
Gleeson as a green room during the lming of In Bruges,
this B&B has been created out of two 16th-century
timber-and-stone carriage houses. The location is both
enchanting (on a canal overlooking the diminutive
Bonifacius bridge and gigantic Church of Our Lady)
and very handy for the Groeninge Museum and its
paintings by Van Eyck, Bosch and David (the gruesome
Flaying of Sisamnes). Owner Lyne Vanhaecke took her
cue from the Flemish Primitives for the decor in the
red-and-taupe breakfast room, which has leaded
windows and heavy, carved-wood Dagoberts chairs;
the breakfast (an immaculate fruit salad topped by half
a pomegranate and marmalade served in a little
porcelain egg cup) resembles a still life. The entrance,
stairway and junior suite have a similarly muted feel;
the Gustavian-style suite and the master suite on
the canal are more toile de Jouy. The crowning glory
is a winding staircase up to the roof terrace with
exceptional views over the Church of Our Lady and
13th-century belfry. Groeninge 4 (+32 50 49 00 49;
www.bonifacius.be). Doubles from about 160
HOME FROM HOME
MAISON LE DRAGON
This four-bedroom guesthouse off the Dijver
canal was built in the 16th century for a guild
that traded in spices from the Orient and a
golden dragon still sits atop the red-brick
faade. It was bought in 2002 by Emmanuel
Vanhaecke, whose father Chris created The
Pand (see overleaf), and the courtyard gardens
of the two guesthouses back onto each other.
The inuence of The Pand is evident in the
Ralph Lauren wallpapers in the second-oor
junior suites (choose red or blue), and the
rst-oor suite and master suite, the latter a
beautiful L-shaped apartment with Aubusson
cartoons on the walls and Adirondack chairs on
a fabulous terrace. But the atmosphere here is
more peaceful, more like a private home (ask
Emmanuel to show you the non-touristy trail on
the map he created and recommend restaurants
for two, such as Assiette Blanche and Couvert).
The pice de rsistance is a rococo salon
surrounded by Fragonard-esque wall panels of
courting couples; home-baked croissants are
served on assiettes de dentelle in a slate-oored
breakfast room, and theres a wood-panelled
dining room if you take the whole place with
friends or family. Eekhoutstraat 5 (+32 50 72 06
54; www.maisonledragon.be). Doubles from
about 140. No children under ve
WHERE TO STAY
ALLURING ORIGINAL
THE PAND
This 18th-century building off the muchphotographed Rozenhoedkaai is one of Brugess
most popular places to stay and has a tower of
guest books to prove it. Created by Chris
Vanhaecke 30 years ago and sold to another
Bruges family last year, it provides a masterclass in
the art of the cosy, charming interior: the woodpanelled salon is full of cut-glass chandeliers,
battered leather-bound books and antique tailors
dummies standing to attention in shiny black
riding boots; Brugse Zot Blond beer is served in a
tiny bar with a mahogany counter and a
burgundy-velvet banquette. The 26 rooms
include junior suites with four-poster beds
wrapped in Ralph Lauren checks, stripes and
orals; two, including a lovely duplex off the
breakfast room, have just been refurbished in a
lighter version of the same style, with wooden
oors instead of carpets, as has the two-bedroom
master suite overlooking the courtyard garden.
Katelijne Haelters and her staff are full of excellent
suggestions for lunch and dinner, including
Breydel De Coninc (which serves mussels and
lobster around a tank of giant goldsh). A
delicious Champagne breakfast can be eaten
seated on Lloyd Loom chairs, with eggs cooked
sunny side up on an Aga right next to you.
Pandreitje 16 (+32 50 34 06 66; www.pandhotel.
com). Doubles from about 120
UPDATED CLASSIC
HUYZE HERTSBERGE
COTE CANAL
Overlooking the Groenerei canal, this 16th-century house
was deemed sufficiently picturesque to be painted by Winston
Churchill. Built by the Abbaye de Cysoing in France, it has
been in the family of Caroline Van Langeraert since 1901:
portraits of her great-great-grandparents hang on the living
room wall. It gave her the creeps as a child, however, so
when Caroline inherited the house in 1995, she spent 10 years
lling it with light, squeezing in modest contemporary
bathrooms and adding Farrow & Ball paints to the ttings and
antiques that document her familys colourful history (a vintage
hat and bag that belonged to her great-great-grandmother
sit on the dressing table in Clair de Lune). The four big
bedrooms also include Clin dOeil, which has a modern oval
bathtub in the middle of the bathroom, and La Charpente,
with a sofa bed on a mezzanine (for children aged nine and
above). Caroline, an engaging former art teacher, gets up at
5am to prepare a feast of pastries, eggs and homemade hot
chocolate in a gracious salon overlooking the canal-side
garden; shes currently creating a conservatory with a simple
stove for longer-staying guests, several of whom have
become friends. Hertsbergestraat 810 (+32 50 333 542;
www.bruges-bedandbreakfast.be). Doubles from about 120
WHERE TO STAY
SALLY SHALAMS GREAT BRITISH BREAKS
Town Mill Cheesemonger
Hix Oyster &

Fish House
Batemans
Tearoom in Baileys
oxes and baskets overowing with

fresh produce have always heralded
the arrival of autumn for me. Now
there is another: the English grape harvest,
which starts one month after Frances, adding
zz to any October trip to the countryside.
Three Choirs Vineyards in Gloucestershire
(www.three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk; two
nights in a lodge cost 320) is one of our
most established wineries and its impeccable
slopes of Bacchus, Pinot Noir and Seyval Blanc
grapes evoke a far more southerly location.
It has a decent restaurant and you can stay
among the vines, even at harvest time, in
three wooden lodges, for sybaritic evenings
imbibing on your own veranda, or enjoying
the contents of a breakfast basket delivered
to your door while watching the mists lift.
From here, the only other address you need is
Baileys, an artfully laid out, photo-set of a
homestore, rustic-luxe caf and vintiqueing
emporium a mere 12 miles away in Bridstow.
You will wish you hadnt already loaded the
car boot with wine.
Last summer, I sipped Furleigh Estate
Classic Reserve a fruity blend of
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot
Meunier grapes on the decked terrace
of Hix Oyster & Fish House in Lyme
Regis. The wine had been grown not half
an hour away on a former dairy farm in
Salway Ash. With steely nerve and a good
satnav (there are teeny Dorset lanes to
negotiate), you can nd the Furleigh
Estate vineyard for a weekend tasting.
My base was Hix Townhouse (www.
hixtownhouse.co.uk; doubles from
120), Mark Hixs rst foray into bed and
board, a short stroll from his restaurant
through terraced public gardens. Here the
wonderful Viv Lawson prepares a breakfast
picnic basket of fruit, yogurt, American muffins
and savoury tartlets and leaves it outside your
door with a little stack of crockery.
Furleigh Estate
For me though, breakfast in Lyme Regis

is all about walking along the tiny River Lym,
which ows through its heart, anked by
riotously colourful cottage gardens, to The
Town Mill Bakery where the simplicity of
scrubbed pine serves as a backdrop for pungent
mounds of just-baked sourdough loaves and
gleaming coils of fresh croissants. When I
stopped at Town Mill Cheesemonger, a
young lad working there told me that Dorset
Blue Vinney is still made just as it was centuries
ago, when farm workers took it to the elds
for their lunch. I headed towards the seafront,
rst ducking into The Sanctuary Bookshop
on Broad Street. Sanctuary indeed: happily
browsing to the strains of Johnny Nash, I found
red-Morocco Macmillan pocket editions of
Rudyard Kipling tales. Bliss.
Those little volumes took me back to an
autumn afternoon passed in dreamy seclusion
at Batemans, Kiplings home in Sussex. I
entered through a herb garden, brushing my
ngers against peppermint, feverfew and purple
sage, before disappearing inside the dark
comeliness of the Jacobean house Kipling
and his wife Carrie called home for more than
30 years. His upstairs study is much as he
would have left it, and in the Powder Closet
room there are original watercolours by the
Detmold brothers for The Jungle Book. How
I wish I had rounded the trip off by staying
amid the Jungle Book-inspired murals at
Church House B&B (www.bandbchurch
house.co.uk; doubles from 75) and had time
to try out Perch Hill, Sarah Ravens gardening
and cookery school, somewhere indeed to
celebrate home-grown abundance. But now,
at least, I have another excuse to visit at
harvest time.
Hix Oyster & Fish House
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT AUSTIN; JASON LOWE; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL
This month, our happy wanderer celebrates the harvest on a tasting

tour of Englands best vineyards, and gets lost in the world of Kipling
WHERE TO STAY
BED-HOPPING WITH EDDIE REDMAYNE

The firebrand star of Les Misrables and Birdsong tells Francesca Babb which hotels hit the mark
LE SIRENUSE, POSITANO
This is the most romantic place Ive
ever stayed. Its run by Antonio Sersale
and his wife Carla, who epitomise
old-school hoteliers: warm, generous,
fun-loving. Every room has a balcony
overlooking the sea, and next to the bed
is an article by John Steinbeck about
Positano. It takes you back to a different
era. There is a little boutique where my
girlfriend and I bought pillows to recreate
Positano in our apartment in London.
www.sirenuse.it. Doubles from about 305
MY BROTHER LIVES IN
HONG KONG. IF THERES
NO ROOM AT HIS GAFF,
ILL SUCK IT UP AND STAY
AT THE PENINSULA
KINLOCH LODGE,
ISLE OF SKYE
This place was founded by
the brilliant Claire and
Godfrey Macdonald. As a
child, I was lucky enough to
spend many summers lost
in the kitchen here, and
theres also nothing like a
sub-zero dip in the loch to
blast away the cobwebs
after more recent dubious
attempts at doing a reel,
fuelled by whisky. Claire is
the most talented chef and
set up a stunning restaurant,
now run by Marcello Tully.
www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk.
Doubles from 280, including
dinner and breakfast
THE PENINSULA
HONG KONG
I stayed here when I did
some master classes for
BAFTA. The general
manager is a wonderful
woman, Rainy Chan, and
the service is so awless it
has a lovely purity to it.
Its a gigantic hotel, and
seeing how this lady runs
the place was fascinating.
Everyone made me feel
really, really welcome.
hongkong.peninsula.com.
Doubles from about 490
Eddie Redmayne stars in Jupiter Ascending and The Theory of Everything, both released in early 2015
SUNSET TOWER HOTEL,

LOS ANGELES
I have very fond memories of waking
up at 5am in the Art Deco ramparts
of a suite at the top of this hotel and
looking out over LA as the sun was
rising. The place is infused with such
history; you feel it in the fabric of
the building. And the restaurant is
awesome, too. www.sunsettowerhotel.
com. Doubles from about 270
NOT SO HOT
I love staying in hotels, but I have yet
to master the art of tipping correctly.
I either give far too much or far too
little. If someone could teach me the
protocol, that would be great.
PHOTOGRAPH: IMMO KLINK/CONTOUR/GETTY IMAGES
LE GRAND COEUR, MERIBEL

I love skiing, and when we were kids my
parents spoilt us rotten and took us
here. Id go and sit in the bar and listen
to this dude playing the piano; I still
aspire to be the piano man at Le Grand
Coeur. My other memory is of the most
incredible bacon at breakfast. www.le
grandcoeur.com. Doubles from about 175
WEL
COME
TO
WON
DER
FUL
READERS
TRAVEL AWARDS
2013
WINNER
ANYTHING ELSE IS JUST A HOLIDAY
To create your wonderful, please visit

scottdunn.com or call our Consultants
on 020 3582 8269
WHERE TO STAY
(Nespresso obviously), and all the
kitchen basics are in place. As are Crate
and Barrel plates, stunning Shefeld
silver cutlery and all the essentials,
such as a picnic hamper, rug and
Champagne bucket. The dining room
is like a groovy private members club
with a shagreen banquette, lament
light bulbs, gilded peacock Cole &
Son wallpaper, antelope head above
the mantelpiece and trays, tureens and
trinkets of a terrically smart life.
THE CROWD No one at all. You are
utterly, blissfully on your own but with
all the levels of service that you might
need on tap. For a real break, this is so
much better than a hotel.
WE LIKE There is a charm and
ricketyness that stops it feeling too shiny.
Floorboards creak, walls are wonky,
but you can spot the thought process
that has gone into it all: the electric
heater, for example, above the striped
garden table and chairs so that suppers
outside can go on long into the night.
WATER MEADOW COTTAGE

OXFORDSHIRE
WHAT IS IT? An astonishingly highspec country cottage in a rural honeypot

of a setting. Reached down a dirt track,
the house may feel thrillingly isolated,
especially at night when its pitch
black outside, but its only 15 minutes
drive from Oxford and moments
from Woodstock. Right by the River
Evenlode, it looks out over the water to
the edge of the majestic Blenheim Palace
Estate. The house itself is in glowing,
buttery Cotswold stone and perfectly
proportioned, with a clementine-shaped
window above the front door.
BEHIND THE SCENES This is a slick
operation. Run by ultra-luxe concierge
company Unlisted London, there are
several docking stations for iPhones and
Wi-Fi everywhere. The company has a spa
division so therapists Victoria and Louise
can visit for massages and manicures in
the summer house (transformed with
tinkly music and candles).
SLEEP Renovation to the house
was completed a year ago by interior
designer Simon Davies. The master
bedroom is lined with chinoiserie

wallpaper and the bed made up with
box-fresh, monogrammed linen. Vintage
Starbay trunks make up the wardrobe
and dressing table, thick silk curtains
hang from wooden poles and there are
little vases of fresh owers on every
surface. The smaller of the two bedrooms
has a more urban-industrial feel with a
wrought iron bedstead, metallic wall lights
and glass-topped apple crates as bedside
tables. But for all the grown-up design,
its still family friendly: bookshelves are
stacked with The Chronicles of Narnia
and The Roald Dahl Treasury, as well as
Scrabble boards and various kids DVDs.
EAT The fridge is lled with fresh juices
from Finns of Chelsea Green, farm eggs,
milk, salty French butter and even a
hunk of white sourdough. You can add
to that by pre-ordering soups, quiches
and sh pies. Or help yourself from the
honesty larder (Berry Bros & Rudd
Chablis and Sancerre, Big Tom and
vodka, bath oils and even red ower
Japanese candles). Salt and pepper, olive
oil and balsamic, tea and coffee
CONTACT +44 870 2255 007;

www.watermeadowcottage.co.uk.
From 425 per night, minimum
two-night stay. ISSY VON SIMSON
WHILE YOURE HERE

Get a history x and see the fascinating
Churchill exhibition at Blenheim
Palace. Theres also a maze, childrens
playground, cafs, a Champagne bar and
glorious Capability Brown gardens for
long walks buy a day ticket and you can
convert it into a year-long pass, which
means you can visit as many times as you
like. You are also given a Bicester Village
VIP shopping pass which certainly helps
while away a rainy afternoon.
PHOTOGRAPH: ANGELO HORNAK/ALAMY
THE WEEKENDER
WE DONT LIKE With all that

technological wizardry, there is an
electrical hum from the light switches
that can disrupt the pastoral peace.
SUITE DREAMS
Indulge in some of Londons largest contemporary luxury suites at
Hotel Caf Royal, positioned in the beating heart of the vibrant capital.
BOOK A SUITE DREAMS STAY AT HOTEL CAF ROYAL AND ENJOY:

020% o our best available rate when booking two nights or more
0Traditional English breakfast
0Early check-in or late check-out (subject to availability)
0Complimentary Wi-Fi
0Complimentary local telephone calls
0Butlers pantry with complimentary Nespresso coee machine
0Private butler service
0Complimentary access to the Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre
HOTEL CAF ROYAL, 68 REGENT STREET, LONDON W1B 4DY

+44 (0)20 7406 3322 [email protected]
HOT E LS
HOTELCAFEROYAL.COM
INSIDE TRACK
Enjoying sun and sea at

Jakes hotel at Treasure
beach is an important part
of Calabash, where writers
sharing their work include
novelist Zadie Smith, above
HOPE YOU LIKE

JAMMIN TOO
Why go to Hay-on-Wye and get your feet wet when you can head
to Jamaica for rum punch and reggae at the worlds most frisky
literary festival? By Emma Love. Photographs by Philip Volkers
he old rastas beard looks as

soft as sheeps wool. His bright
apple-green shirt, which hes
paired with orange linen trousers,
a knitted hat and a thin matching scarf
draped around his neck, shimmers in the
erce Sunday afternoon sun as he picks up
his knees and twirls around in circles in
time to the seven-piece band playing on
the stage. Two women join in, shaking their
hips in African-print maxi dresses, with
wide-brimmed oppy straw hats and colour
co-ordinated beads in their braided hair.
Against a backdrop of sandy beach where a
single shing boat is pulling away from the
bay and a few palm trees sway in the tiniest
of breezes, the trio form the beginning
of a conga line, weaving in and out of the
2,000-strong crowd who have all stood up
from their chairs to spill out of the packed,

open-air marquee and groove along to the
gospel voice of Judy Mowatt, once one of
Bob Marleys backing singers, now a reggae
legend in her own right. This is the nale
of Calabash, a biannual, three-day literary
event with serious clout held in the most
unlikely of places: Jakes hotel in Treasure
Beach on the rugged south coast of Jamaica.
Calabash is the original and biggest of
the Caribbean literary festivals and also the
only one to pull in heavyweight poets,
novelists and writers from across the globe
(others, such as the NGC Bocas Lit Fest in
Trinidad and Tobago or the Bim Literary
Festival in Barbados have a much more
local bent). Over the course of the weekend
I listen, rapt, as Zadie Smith, a red shawl
tying back her hair, stands at the bamboo
INSIDE TRACK
lectern to read from her most recent

book, The Embassy of Cambodia. I laugh
as Irish-born, New York-based author
Colum McCann, a midday bottle of cold
Red Stripe beer in his hand I like to
call it the rosiner, like the resin that you
put on a violin before you play, he
says jokingly before taking a long sip
describes a character called Tillie,
a 38-year-old prostitute from his novel
Butter, a brown mongrel dog belonging

to Sally Henzell, the founder of Jakes,
nds a playmate and they both start
rolling around the stage mid-talk, which
the speaker somehow, magnicently,
manages to ignore.
Between events a group of high-school
children, who have won a poetry
competition to be here, gather to gossip
loudly on the beach next to a Jamaican
A DOG AND ITS PLAYMATE START ROLLING

AROUND THE STAGE MID-TALK, WHICH THE
SPEAKER SOMEHOW MANAGES TO IGNORE
Let the Great World Spin, in an amusing
encounter with a toupee-wearing
television weatherman. And I join in
with the crowd as they give Mervyn
Morris, Jamaicas Poet Laureate, two
standing ovations.
Everyone knows that in Jamaica time
is elastic, but curiously Calabash runs
like clockwork. All the readings start
bang on time, even if the odd latecomer
does drift in carrying a paper plate piled
high with jerk chicken and fried cornbread rolls or drinking from a fresh
coconut through a straw. At one point
ag that someone has ung over the wire

fence. A woman with long grey hair
scraped back into a ponytail sits crosslegged in the sea in her swimming costume
taking huge bites out of a mango, the
juice dripping down her arms. And a
toddler wiggles her hips as she gathers
shells in the sand. There are book signings
at the pop-up Novelty Trading Company
bookshop there are book signings, next
to the tent where the ame-red owers
of a poinciana tree look as if theyre going
to burst through the tarpaulin. And
clusters of people sit around wooden
tables in the shade outisde the Jack Sprat

pizza and seafood restaurant, the hub of
all the festival action, or potter around the
craft stands buying incense and trinkets.
Books might come rst on the order
of play, but music is the backbone of
the festival. Reggae blasts out over the
sound system. American poet Major
Jackson recites lines about Tupac and
the Fugees. Chris John Farley, ex-music
critic of Time magazine, reads a passage
from his book on Bob Marley, and
banters with the crowd: Marley used
to joke that he drove a BMW because
it stood for? Bob Marley and the
Wailers, they shout straight back. When
Salman Rushdie is interviewed, he
discusses the rst record he ever bought
(Elvis Presleys Heartbreak Hotel), his
favourite band when he was growing up
(The Velvet Underground) and the lyrics
he wrote for his tome The Ground
Beneath Her Feet, which became a U2
song of the same name.
On the last night, theres a drinks
party for the authors at one of the
Jakes villas down the road (the hotel has
four houses which can be rented and
PHOTOGRAPHS: COOKIE KINKEAD, ALAMY
Calabash draws not

just the literati, but
a broad cross-section
of Jamaican society;
Dougies Bar, below,
mixes up fresh fruit
smoothies and rum
punch for thirsty writers
INSIDE TRACK
Write on: speakers

at the festival enjoy a
drink at Dougies, below,
which is rivalled only by
Jack Sprat bar, centre,
as the place to wind
down after a hard days
wordsmithery
a just-opened hostel, Jack Sprat

Shack), where Rushdie tells stories about
Chuck Berry and Keith Richards before
playing ping-pong by the pool. Everyone
then wanders back to the hotel bar,
where white fairy lights are strung up in
the trees, to drink paint-stripper strength
Dark n Stormys and to listen to live
bands playing on the music stage until
2am. The sweet smell of ganja lls the air
and a driftwood re glows on the beach.
The story of the festival, which began
after Jamaican authors Colin Channer
and Kwame Dawes were on a book tour
together in the UK and got talking about
the struggles facing Caribbean writers,
is intrinsically linked to Jakes hotel. It
was a hare-brained idea we came up with
on a train, probably somewhere between
Leeds and London, recalls Dawes, who
acts as compre and makes the crowd
chuckle every time he comes on stage.
Channer (who is no longer involved)
was friends with Justine Henzell, a lm
producer and Sallys daughter, who asked
her brother Jason, who now manages
Jakes, if they could hold it there.
Getting authors to come to Jakes is
not a hard sell, says Justine. All the little
touches you see, the art hanging from

the trees, the mosaics in the pillars of
the stage: its all down to my mum. Sally,
now 73, is a former set designer whose
family moved to Calabash Bay from
the UK in the 1920s. As a child she would
come to Treasure Beach to play. Later,
in 1991, she bought the land where
Jakes is now together with her late
husband Perry (a director best known
just German backpackers coming to

Treasure Beach. Then one day we got a
call from a guy in New York asking if he
could land a helicopter here. We threw
out the cheap mattresses wed bought
from the local hardware store and I went
to Kingston to buy the best.
Since then, Jakes has become something
of a low-, secret institution where Kate
Moss, Jude Law and others come to
RUSHDIE TELLS STORIES ABOUT CHUCK

BERRY AND KEITH RICHARDS
BEFORE PLAYING PING-PONG BY THE POOL
for making the rst Jamaican feature lm,
The Harder They Come). After building
a restaurant and then a two-bedroom
cottage, Jakes, which is named after Sallys
parrot, was born.
The hotel evolved organically. It
started on a shoestring and every year
we would add one or two rooms in the
summer to make a little money in
the winter, remembers Jason, who also
runs a non-prot foundation called Breds
(local patois for brethren), which
has so far raised around 600,000 for
community projects. At that time, it was
disappear. And you can see why: its quite

possibly the prettiest hotel Ive ever
stayed at. The look is boho, beautifully
rustic (lanterns, shells, striped hammocks
tied between gnarled trees) and inspired
by Gaud, with shards of coloured
glass decorating the pathways. Theres
Dougies pool bar, a thatch hut where
fresh fruit smoothies and rum punch
are the order of the day and, during the
festival, authors stand around chatting
and swapping signed books of poetry,
the spa where early morning yoga classes
are held on the roof, and cute cottages
LIT FESTIVAL PASSNOTES

JAMAICA
WALES
INDIA
AUSTRALIA
CALABASH
HAY FESTIVAL
JAIPUR
LITERATURE
FESTIVAL
THE SYDNEY
WRITERS
FESTIVAL
Jakes hotel,
Treasure Beach
A bunch of
marquees in a
eld just outside
Hay-on-Wye
The Hotel Diggi

Palace in Jaipur
Theatres, town
halls and the
Sydney Opera
House
Schoolkids and
cool kids from
Kingston,
local shermen,
Andrea Levy,
Zadie Smith
The
Chipping Norton
set, Bill Clinton,
anyone
interested in
politics, history
or climate
Julia Roberts,
Jonathan
Franzen,
the Dalai
Lama
Colum McCann:
My mum used to
give us Jamaican
gingerbread when
we were kids.
Ja make it
yourself?, we
asked her
When Nobel
laureate V S
Naipaul shook
hands with Paul
Theroux on stage
and ended their
15-year-long feud
Barnett Rubin
rapping about
his time as
Obamas senior
Af-Pak adviser
Colin McDowell
on fashion:
Whether youre
straight or gay,
a pair of pecs
is going to beat
any
shirt
Sundress from
Callaloo, just
down the road,
necklaces
by the Girl
and the
Magpie
Layers: a Vanessa
Bruno cardigan,
Acne jeans and
wellies
Bespoke Nehru
collared jackets by
tailor Madhav
Agasti and
cashmere shawls
from chic
boutique Andraab
Luxe basics by
Aussie fashion
duo Bassike
Nothing. Youre
too choked by the
opening
reading of
Maya
Angelous
Still I Rise
Who wants a
sheeps milk ice
cream from
Shepherds?
Surprise! Ive just

signed you up
for the next
open-mic spoken
word session
I cant wait for

my Amazon order
to arrive
May
2016
www.calabash
festival.org
2131 May
2015
www.hayfestival.
com
THE PLACE
WHO GOES
MEMORABLE
MOMENT
WHAT TO
WEAR
WHAT TO
SAY
WHAT NOT
TO SAY
DATE FOR
YOUR DIARY
Tinariwens
tunes totally
blew me
away
Serious
Sydneysiders,
authors
Eleanor
Catton and
Emma
Donoghue
I snapped up the
last pair of
tickets to Irvine
Welshs talk on
The Sex Lives of
Siamese Twins
Remember
Salman Rushdies
forced
no-show
in 2012?
I just cant get

into Breaking Bad
[the shows
creator Vince
Gilligan spoke
here last year]
2125 January
2015
www.jaipurlit
eraturefestival.org
1824 May
2015
www.swf.org.au
are painted in the kind of shades most

often found in an Italian ice-cream
parlour: pale lilac; a lick of the lightest
lemon; powdery, baby blue.
By the squiggle-shaped pool which
overlooks a small sandy beach, Sam,
a 12-year-old boy from Brooklyn,
practices card tricks, his legs dangling
in the shallows, while his younger brother
Oliver borrows a camera and captures
the scene. Other children jump off a
brightly tiled wall and splash about
while grown-ups laze on deckchairs
reading in the sun.
Conversation ows from fracking
to football in a blink. In 2001, it was
around this pool that the rst Calabash
took place. Three hundred people turned
up. Word soon spread and the speakers
(who in the past have included
authors Michael Ondaatje and Andrea
Levy, historian Patrick French, ANC
activist Ronnie Kasrils and poet Derek
Walcott) had to be moved to a specially
constructed stage on the far side of the
property where it is still held today.
Although the festival is far bigger now,
and held every other year rather than
annually, the vibe is still the same. Authors,
who are own out and put up at Jakes but
forgo their usual speaking fees, are always
asked to recommend three other writers
who they can introduce to the festival.
Everyone eats together at Jack
Sprat: local farmers nd might themselves
tucking into their ackee and salt-sh
breakfast alongside a politician, then
waiting in one of the well-organised
queues with their rafe ticket to collect
their lunch next to a rapper. On the
last day, I stumble across a tiny, tuckedaway stall with a snaking line of people
waiting patiently to buy delicious,
just-cooked corn on the cob steaming in
a big silver bowl. Middle-aged men
behind me wear tropical shirts and a
smartly dressed couple from Kingston in
front tell me that they call themselves
Calabashians because theyve been coming
for so many years. How many times do
you need to attend before you can do
that, I ask the woman. From the very rst
time! she says. Its in your heart.
+1 877 526 2428; www.jakeshotel.com.
Doubles from about 60. The next
Calabash takes place in May 2016,
www.calabashfestival.org. Virgin Holidays
+ Hip Hotels (+844 573 2460; www.
vhiphotels.co.uk) offers ve nights at Jakes
hotel from 1,069 per person, based on two
sharing, including ights and transfers
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, BASSO CANNARSA/LUZ/EYEVINE
INSIDE TRACK
A LETTER FROM
A tucked-away, tumbledown former monastery with its own hotel turns out to be the best
possible hiding place and lookout post for Antonia Quirke. Illustration by Andrea DAquino
rst saw the Llanthony
Priory by chance. Lost in the
easternmost valley of the Black
Mountains on a freakishly hot
Saturday, my confused route along
lanes thick with massive foxgloves
tropical in their profusion, their
swollen stalks almost ve feet
tall suddenly narrowed into a
mile-long, gloomy tunnel of holly
trees leading all the way to a
campsite with no tents and one
hiker eating a packet of crisps
in the middle of a magnicent
Augustinian ruin.
The place was, is, outrageously
beautiful. Hidden among steep,
primeval green hills, this was once
the greatest medieval building
in Wales, with a mixture of
12th-century, round-headed
Norman arches and Gothic pointed
ones, and a high, ivy-clad tower,
ragged but still standing, that
looks like something constructed
in a daydream, a half-false,
half-fantasised memory patched
together from Bresson movies
and poems by Shelley. A seat
of power, a veritable Tintagel
from 1108 until the Reformation,
the priory has been either
abandoned, or in private hands,
and collapsing, ever since the
great west window fell down right
in front of a traveller in 1803.
It is currently owned and
cherished by the 92-year-old Mrs
Knight, who lives in the grounds
(her father bought it for a song
after the war), and anyone passing
can wander around the ruin free
of charge or drink in the stone pub
occupying the basement of the
former priors lodging, now the
Llanthony Priory Hotel. In summer,
ramblers go through their pockets
for folded-up ve-pound notes to
splurge on Magnums and pickled
eggs; in winter, they struggle for
miles to taste its world-historical

cheese-and-broccoli soup.
It was years before I twigged you
can actually stay at the top of the
tower: its the star room of the tiny
hotel. Late one night, exactly eight
summers after I rst caught sight
of it, the landlady hauled me and my
bags up a dizzying spiral of Norman
stone steps. Been to a party? she
asked. No, London. She puffed
huge sighs of consolation as we
continued up, past blistered oak
doors and cobwebbed nooks,
grabbing an Edwardian chamber
pot from a bathroom on the way
(once youre up there, youll
stay there) until long minutes
later the staircase at last opened
into a perfectly round, snug room
with a four-poster bed and a
leaded window secretively tucked
away at oor level.
In the morning, waking to

swallows dive-bombing from their
high nests, for a moment I thought
I was in southern Spain. All
day I lay on the oor looking out
of the window, transxed by the
intimate valley beyond, with its
elds colonised by buttercups and
poppies in great diverging swathes.
In the afternoon, spying for ages
on a family of ramblers on the
dewy mounds of grass far below,
at the very site where faults had
once been confessed and penances
assigned, I thought proudly that
this could only be the British Isles.
Only here do walkers hunch so
uncomplaining against the weather.
A medium rain settled into the
fallen south nave, but the family
did not inch. Had I been able
to lower a little basket of biscuits
down to them, I would have.
HUNDREDS OF SPARROWS SHELTERED UNDER NAKED

ARCHES, CLICKING THEIR BEAKS AT FAT WELSH BUGS
The landlady sniffed the air.
I was smuggling a chicken biryani
from Abergavenny and wasnt
sure if it was allowed, but with
the forbearance of someone whod
stopped serving her own pasta
bake in the bar at 9pm, she left
me to it. Sitting on the oor by
the secret window, I wondered how
many chicken dinners had been
eaten in this room, possibly by
abbots roaring colourful oaths
at peasants. I wanted a drink but
was too lazy to face the steps,
and in any case was enjoying
the dark and immaculate stillness.
The place, I thought, felt old.
Far older than religion. Back to
something more universal, to
superstitious but deeply reassuring
things like the sound of sheep
somewhere beyond in the night
making a mysterious lament.
This being the most romantic

room in the country, I stayed put,
only emerging much later for a
last-orders supper of stew and cider
and a walk in the black grounds,
where hundreds of sparrows
sheltered under naked arches,
clicking their beaks at fat Welsh
bugs, and where at 11pm Mrs
Knight made her way in gumboots
through the thrusting, yearning
tangle of old stones, to bed.
Llanthony Priory Hotel,
Monmouthshire (+44 1873 890487;
www.llanthonyprioryhotel.co.uk).
Doubles from 85, including a
gigantic breakfast. Shared bathroom.
Winter opening (November to
March) is at weekends only. Tower
Bedroom not remotely wheelchair
friendly. Bar open to all. Top-notch
homemade hot food served
STYLE FILE
BY FIONA LINTOTT
PLUS Beauty Mens & On the scene
I PRESENT TO YOU... Mercedes Ngoh Sieff

The co-founder of
hit tness retreat
Yeotown, which now
runs getaways in Bali
and beyond, is known
for bringing the LA
yoga scene to Devon
Join the club

ON TRAVEL
I am in Bali right now. After Yeotowns
annual surf-and-yoga escape here I always
spend a few weeks exploring the island.
I love Jimbaran Bay, known for its outdoor
restaurants. People rock up for drinks,
chilled music and seafood. Dinner at The
Warung in Alila Villas Uluwatu is a must.
ON FOOD
Ive so many top restaurants: Paloma Beach
in St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Chez Sami in Lebanon,
LAs Caf Gratitude. I head to Sri Lanka
every year and often go to Wijaya, a beach
bar with stunning sunset views. If you can
get an invite to the Secret Sushi Night at Kikili
House in Galle, youre in for a real treat.
ON BOOKS
ON BEAUTY
Thrive by Arianna Huffington

is a fantastic read; its about
redening the way we view
success and the importance
of taking time to enjoy other aspects of life
and the people around us. My favourite coffeetable book is Surf Life 32 To 02.
London-based Alexandra Soveral is the

queen of skincare and I visit her religiously
for her non-surgical facelift. I like quirky spas;
Wakeman Road in London has a nice
wellbeing ethos and the Ashiyana retreat in
Goa has the most amazing natural pool.
ON HOTELS
The Ritz-Carlton in Tokyo is one of my favourites;
the lobby starts on the 45th oor and theres a view of
Mount Fuji from just about everywhere. Taprobane
Island, above left, in Sri Lanka is a lovely property that
you get to by wading through the sea and Nayara in
Costa Rica has a rainforest spa and sushi bar, above.
ON FASHION
As a Lululemon Athletica brand
ambassador, Im lucky to get a lot of great
yoga gear. I also like Teeki, Omnitom,
Be Love and Spiritual Gangster. When
it comes to shoes, I love Nicholas
Kirkwoods sexy designs and the
vegan line Beyond Skin.
ON WORK
I am in the middle of writing Yeotowns rst book, a healthy guide
to our way of eating, moving and thinking. The space itself is
expanding, with four more rooms and a new yoga studio. We have
also just launched Yeotown Health Online, which is lled with
tness and cooking tutorials. And this month the Yeotown Home
Kitchen food-delivery service starts in London. www.yeotown.com
Lace shoes, 710,

Nicholas Kirkwood
(www.nicholas
kirkwood.com)
Fresh from a revamp by

hotshot young architects, the
60-year-old Marbella Club
has lost none of its charm and
regained all of its kudos.
Authentic Spanish design is at
the core of everything at this
party hotel, from MC Beach,
the chic restaurant, above,
right beside the ocean, to the
Natura Biss spa treatments
and the furniture by the
company behind the redesign,
Minimec. Book into the new
Santa Margarita suites, which
are lled with antique colours,
Crittall windows and mosaic
tiles. www.marbellaclub.com
SHOP WATCH
Warm, NYC
Californian make-up artist
Carmindy Bowyer is even
more of a sun seeker
than I am. While in Costa
Careyes, Mexico, for
this months fashion
shoot, she shared her
latest travel-themed nd:
Warm boutique in New
York City. Owners Winnie
Beattie and her husband
Rob Magnotta are keen
surfers and theyre hard
to track down. You could
try Costa Rica but they
also hang out in Mexicos
Zihuatanejo, Barbados
and Snowbird, Utah.
Where youre unlikely to
nd them is in their own
store, but you can soak up
their infectious holiday
spirit, which covers every
inch. Highlights include
Chilean label Zero +
Maria Cornejo and LA
menswear line The Elder
Statesmen, along with
homeware, art and surf
books. 181 Mott Street.
www.warmny.com
NOSE-HOW
Sharpen your senses for my short-cut to the names you need

to know about in the fragrance world now. If youve ever been
hypnotised by the scent in a hotel, chances are Frdric Malle
was behind it. The Parisian perfumer has transformed the way
we use fragrance. I love his rubber incense mats (try them in
Precious
your car), his Caf Society candle and his shop in
Miniatures, 65,
New York, left, opening this month. After creating
Shay & Blue (www.
hit scent 1996 for photographers Inez & Vinoodh
shayandblue.com)
to give to their fashion friends, Byredo has just
launched its delicate Mojave Ghost perfume. And
for a blast of nostalgia, check out British brand
Shay & Blues new gift set, which includes a
sea-salt-caramel scent. www.fredericmalle.
com; www.byredo.com; www.shayandblue.com
STYLE FILE
SOUL SISTER
There is nothing shouty
about Greek designs; they
are distinctly modest,
low-key and more often
than not handmade.
Athens-born Valia Gabriel
reects this philosophy,
and her dreamy, earthtoned sandals are now
available online at
www.valiagabriel.com
Walton bag, 950, Anya Hindmarch

Bespoke (www.harrods.com)
Poncho, 895; monogram service

200, Burberry (www.burberry.com)
Identity issues
The craze for seles shows no sign
of cooling off and Selfridges has
tapped into the trend for making it
personal, with new in-store services,
including an Artomatic photo booth,
engraving initials on bottles of
Bombay Sapphire gin and customising
Eleven Paris T-shirts. Here are my
favourite ways to go bespoke.
Selling pointe
The New York City Ballet
Fall Gala opens this month
in amboyant style as
top fashion designers
create the costumes. For
one night only, resident
choreographer Justin Peck
teams up with Mary
Katrantzou and Alexander
McQueens Sarah Burton
debuts alongside British
choreographer Liam
Scarlett. It is costume
drama at its very
best. www.nyc
ballet.com. Right,
looks from Mary
Katrantzou
Resort
collection
2015
Neverfull Mon Monogram bag, 910,

Louis Vuitton (www.lousivuitton.com)
Bespoke T-shirt, 35, Eleven

Paris (www.selfridges.com)
WANT TO BE SEDUCED BY
CLUB
THE
join for free and receive a tier upgrade

at slh.com/cnt
STYLE FILE
How do you getyour skin and
body beach-ready?
I dont know if I do! Depilation and
manicures and pedicures are about as
exciting as it gets.
What fragrance do you love?

I have worn Fracas for a hundred years.
How do you stay t?

I do Body Control Pilates with the wonderful
Lynne Robinson and Katherine Pentecost,
and I try to run a few times a week.
PHOTOGRAPH: AUGUST IMAGES. SOPHIE DAHL TRAVELLED TO CYPRUS WITH SCOTT DUNN (WWW.SCOTTDUNN.COM)
ONCE IN A BLUE
MOON I CHECK INTO
CLARIDGES ON MY
OWN FOR A NIGHT.
MY HUSBAND SAYS
IM MUCH NICER
ON RETURN
How do you scale down

your make-up bag for inight?
Ill take a bit of By Terry concealer and something
that doubles up for cheeks and lips such as a
Nars stick, and Kevyn Aucoin cream blusher
for landing so I dont look too horrifying.
The Intensive
Revitalizing mask,
105, Crme de la
Mer (www.harrods.
com). Above, Fracas
fragrance, 95, Robert
Piguet (www.harrods.
com). Below, Elixir
Ultime shampoo, 19,
Krastase (www.
kerastase.co.uk)
Your favourite
skincare brands?
I love Darphin cleanser for
sensitive skin. It smells gorgeous,
like a rosy, camomile lawn.
Crme de la Mer is my real
extravagance it really works.
I also adore Charlotte Tilburys
Magic Cream as a day moisturiser
or base and Lanolips for dry hands,
chapped lips and childrens knees.
BEAUTY KIT: SOPHIE DAHL ON HER TRAVELS
The model, writer and cook known for her healthy, flavour-packed recipes shares her secrets
What is your skin routine
beforeand during a ight?
What spa abroad would

you recommend?
How many hours sleep

do you need a night?
Clean face, lots of moisturiser and water.
Anassa hotel in Cyprus. It offers

miraculous thalassotherapy treatments
and theres also a myriad of stuff to
do with children.
Untold hours. But as the

mother of a three-year-old
and 16-month-old, I get about
ve or six. Im scraping by.
Have you discovered any great

beauty nds whiletravelling?
Mostly through French
pharmacies: Nuxe and
Klorane are great. The St
Mawes Pharmacy in
Cornwall has a really
lovely product line.
Do you have a
signature nail colour?
Ive always worn a
Chanel cherry-red or
an Essie pale pink.
Do you sunbathe?
I dont go brown. Im lily-white
and I get freckly. I use Esthederm
Adaptasun Sensitive Skin cream
to protect my skin.
Which hair products

do you use?
I have been going to Adam Reed
of Percy and Reed for a cut and
colour since I was 18. I use his
brilliant haircare range, along with
Krastases Elixir Ultime.
Any bad-hair experiences

you can share?
I had a mullet in my early 20s:
someone razored my very thick
locks in all the wrong places. It took
forever to grow out and I looked like an
extra from Prisoner: Cell Block H. I had to
wear a turban for an Italian Vogue cover
because my hair looked so awful.
Holiday photographs by Sophies husband Jamie Cullum. Her

website is At The Kitchen Table (www.sophiedahl.com)
Do you ever detox?

No. I like food too much. Im
very unpleasant to be around if
Im not fed properly.
Touche Veloute,
35, By Terry
(www.net-a-porter.
com). The Creamy
Glow, 19, Kevyn
Aucoin (www.
net-a-porter.com)
hard rock hotel ibiza
BALI . BILOXI . CANCUN . CHICAGO . HOLLYWOOD, FL . IBIZA . LAS VEGAS . MACAU

NORTHFIELD PARK . ORLANDO . PALM SPRINGS . PANAMA MEGAPOLIS
PATTAYA . PENANG . PUNTA CANA . RIVIERA MAYA
SAN DIEGO . SINGAPORE . TAMPA . VALLARTA
HARDROCKHOTELS.COM
#THISISHARDROCK
2014 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND
MAN ON A MISSION
Restaurateur Liam Hart seeks out the true home of ribs n blues and no, its not New Orleans
Down in Louisiana we visit Cochon for its fried alligator delicious

chunks of hearty meat with a hint of a sh avour. And the French
Quarter of New Orleans turns out to be everything you can imagine. We
see a tough nine-year-old kid walking from bar to bar trying to get a gig.
Later we see him performing with a ve-piece on a street corner. He is
one of the best trumpet players weve ever heard.
Flying out from New Orleans we realise that the real spirit of the blues
is back in hard-luck Clarksdale. The Bluesberry Caf offers warm beer,
average food and terrible lighting. The night we were there they were
staging a benet for the celebrated bluesman T Model Ford, who has
sadly died since, to raise money after his house had been condemned.
The great Watermelon Slim was performing. If he had been playing in
London hed have been headlining Ronnie Scotts. In Clarksdale hes
helping carry in the beer, and there are 15 people in the audience. The
music is sad, authentic. Its the blues. www.theblueskitchen.com
READ THIS A Confederacy of Dunces by

John Kennedy Toole. Published in 1980, 11 years
after Tooles suicide, Confederacys cast of exotic
New Orleans characters has earned it a place in
the canon of novels from the American South.
DOWNLOAD THIS Crossroad by Robert
Johnson. The legendary bluesman died at just
27, but not before he had put together a body of
work that would prompt Eric Clapton to call him
the most important blues singer that ever lived.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY
teve Ball and I land in Memphis, Tennessee, looking for

inspiration ahead of the opening of the Blues Kitchen, our
restaurant in Shoreditch in London. Were after culinary
inspiration, of course, but also for the essence of the blues,
its spirit. Musically, Memphis has embraced the tourist trail a little too
enthusiastically, but in terms of food it has a lot to offer. We visit
Central BBQ and Charles Vergos Rendezvous, famous places for ribs,
each with their own specialist spice rubs and wood-chip combinations.
From here we cross to Clarksdale, Mississippi. Its a hardscrabble
place, desperately poor. On the crossroads where Robert Johnson
supposedly sold his soul to the devil theres a place called Abes. Its
dusty and harshly lit, the meat smoker just an old oil drum out in the
yard. The ribs come in a polystyrene tray like a cheap kebab, but they
are delicious: the meat just falls off the bone. We stay at the Shack Up
Inn where the rooms are old cotton pickers huts, but theres a guitar in
each one. And out front theres a pick-up truck with bullet
holes in the windscreen. Its motto is
instructive: The Ritz we aint.
The town has four or ve proper blues
joints. The famous one is Ground Zero,
which is co-owned by Morgan Freeman.
Every night theres a bluesman playing
somewhere, a guy in a dive bar earning
nickels and dimes. After four days of nothing
but meat we ask the guy that runs the hotel if
we can get fruit for breakfast. He laughs. The
nearest place to buy fruit is 11 miles away.
STATEMENT
LUGGAGE
With its handsome orange trim
and embroidered body, this bag
by Italian masters of understated luxury
Valextra is the perfect weekender.
Theres a racing-driverish quality to
it, a hint of the sports glamorous
Seventies heyday: you can imagine
James Hunt swaggering into rst class
with it tossed over his shoulder.
www.matchesfashion.com, 1,620
This cracker of a backpack

by Burberry is part of a range
of one-off, hand-painted grain leather
bags inspired by the works of St
Ives stalwarts Ben Nicholson and
Christopher Wood. Its ideal
for Cornish castaways
and anyone of an
artistic bent who
likes pottering
among the
pottery studios
in Englands
answer to
Montparnasse.
www.burberry.
com, 2,495
Not so long ago, really dashing

luggage hulking leather trunks
with ancestral monograms was the
preserve of those who hired porters.
Thankfully statement luggage is now
available to the carry-on classes:
witness this wheelie case handmade in
Hertfordshire by Globe-Trotter.
www.mrporter.com, 840
DAVIDS POSTCARD FROM...

AMERSHAM
In Iain Sinclairs lovely essay on North
Londons Springeld Park he talks about
the holiday trams that once ran up from
Whitechapel, taking East Enders up to
the park with its open space and canal
views. Of course the trams dont run
anymore, and my wife and I live next to
Springeld Park anyway, but its a Bank
Holiday and so we decide on a homage:
a holiday by Tube. The Metropolitan
Line is the obvious choice. Amersham
is the last stop. The new town is
archetypal Metroland, Thirties-built and
residential, but the old town, down the
hill, is Domesday-aged, and historically
prickly: all Lollard dissenters and fervent
Roundheads. We stay at The Crown,
a coach house on the high street. The
countryside is nice. Midsomer Murdersish. Its not up there with the Peak
District, but you try getting to Derbyshire
on the Tube. We follow a footpath that
cleaves through elds of wheat; above
us a pair of red kites wheel and wing. For
the London-weary this is democratic
travel, and only 3.90 on your Oyster
card. www.thecrownamersham.com
GET THE LOOK: BONJOUR TRISTESSE

Cruise the Riviera in rakish style, just like super-smoothie David Niven
From left: linen shirt, 105, Hartford (www.mrporter.com); trousers, 230, Incotex (www.matchesfashion.com); Seamaster Aqua Terra, 3,830,
Omega (0845 272 3100); aviator sunglasses, 188, Ray-Ban at Sunglass Hut (0844 264 0860)
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY THEA DARRICOTTE
Collarless coat,
1,445, Rochas
(www.matches
fashion.com).
Suede trainers,
325, Giorgio
Armani (www.
armani.com)
Sunglasses,
43, Le Specs
(www.sunglassesshop.co.uk)
On the scene: Le Bristol Paris

The look: bonhomie
Quilt-stitch top, POA,

Brunello Cucinelli
(www.brunello
cucinelli.com)
There is something about this classic palace hotel that is entirely selfcontained, a cocooned world of old-school values and elegance. Your
carriage lifts as soon as you enter the lobby. The concierge could not be
more charming and the general manager, instead of beetling around
someone far richer and prettier than you, is right there on the
pavement, grabbing your bags, hailing you a taxi, asking about your
children. It even smells beautiful here, like Grace Kelly in springtime.
Everything is a comfort without being precious, as it can be in Paris
sometimes: armchairs to sit in at breakfast, hot chocolate in which
the spoon stands up. You trust Le Bristol completely: nding the
perfect spot for supper, looking after your diamonds or dogs, some
minor indiscretion. Its one of those rare hotels that is both
top-class and yet unselfconscious. Its easy to come here on your
own and feel thrilled with the embrace of the place. On the other
hand, French actresses, fashion editors and stylists swarm about.
Put simply, Le Bristol is where you always hoped youd be when you
grew up. www.lebristolparis.com. Doubles from about 715
Jeans, 165, Marc by

Marc Jacobs (www.matches
fashion.com). Gallop H
rose-gold and diamond
bracelet, 3,970, Herms
(+44 20 7499 8856)
Large Sac de
Jour, 2,090,
Saint Laurent
(www.ysl.com)
Carrera Lady
Calibre 9 automatic
watch, 2,850,
Tag Heuer (www.
tagheuer.co.uk). A
look from Michael
Kors A/W 14
Silk crpe-de-chine
top, 335, Chlo
(www.net-aporter.com)
BELMOND HOTEL SPLENDIDO, PORTOFINO
WHAT YOU SOON COME TO UNDERSTAND IS HOW

DIFFERENT EVERYTHING FEELS FROM THE WATER.
LUCA FROM THE HOTEL SAYS WITH ALL HIS HEART,
THERE ARE PLACES THAT ONCE YOU SEE THEM,
THEY CHANGE YOU. SO YOU ASK, WHERE WOULD
YOU TAKE SOMEONE SPECIAL? HE STUDIES YOU
FOR A MOMENT BEFORE GIVING AWAY HIS
SECRET. THEN HE SKETCHES A SIMPLE MAP AND
MAKES YOU PROMISE TO TELL NO ONE. LATER YOU
SWIM AT HIS SECRET BEACH, THEN REST ON THE
DECK OF THE GOZZO WHILE THE SUN WARMS YOU.
YOU THINK, I WILL KEEP THIS WITH ME FOREVER.
HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNEYS | BELMOND.COM
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TRENDWATCH
VILLAS BY DESIGN
A homogeneous, unlovely box with a mosquito-screened garden in
Florida, or a charming but crumbly cottage in Goa where the water
out of the taps is brown and so is the pool... Hiring a holiday house
used to be a dicey game, with no guarantee of anything so civilised
as crisp, clean sheets or fresh towels. Now, of course, its possible to
spend crazy money on a week at a fully staffed, bells-and-whistles
mansion on Phuket or a turbo chalet for 20 of your best friends. But
there are smarter, more astute options. Proper, big-name designers
have thrown their hats into the rental ring, and websites such as
www.boutique-homes.com can get you a week-long stay at some
jaw-dropping places. Founder Veronique Lievre (also the owner of
the pretty Verana hotel in Mexico) showcases a curated collection
of houses chosen for their architectural merit. Kick back in the
much-photographed polished-concrete palace of Casa Kimball in
the Dominican Republic, pictured, or at one of the astonishingly
contemporary, eco-designed Casas Bioclimticas on Tenerife.
British company The Modern House (www.themodernhouse.net)
can also set up a modernist adventure by way of Alistair Downies
Atelier House on the west coast of Barbados, or a minimalist
escapade at Casa La Ceiba, by the acclaimed Mexican architect
Diego Villaseor, near Puerto Vallarta. And if youre completely
smitten by that way of living and keen for a more permanent
address, also on its books are some London properties for sale
how about a Richard Rogers crashpad in Wimbledon or one of
those iconic Barbican apartments? ISSY VON SIMSON
TRIP
NOTHING IS AS IT SEEMS IN THE UPLANDS OF ARGENTINA A WONDROUSLY EERIE PLACE FOR AN
106
OUT
OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE. BY JONATHAN BASTABLE. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
he cono de arita is the most mesmerising volcano

you are ever likely to set eyes on. It is a perfect
cone, a mini-Fuji that stands alone on a salt at as
straight and level as a becalmed sea. At rst sight
the shape appears petite youd think it was the
smallest volcano in the world. But this is a trick of
perspective, an illusion created by the tall mountains behind it.
Get closer, and you realise its a good 150 metres high. And
theres another strange effect: at ground level the Arita cone
appears to be the same muddy colour as the dry plain, but
if you climb the gravel dune to the west of it, everything

changes. The brown ground looks ice-white from this height
and angle because the suns rays are reected by the salty
crystals in the earth. The volcano, meanwhile, turns onyxblack. I was there at midday, and something about the quality
of the light meant all I could see was its geometric shape
seemingly detached from the earth, oating like a silent
spacecraft above the desert oor.
The Arita stands in the middle of the puna, the Argentinian
term for the vast upland plateau located in the foothills of the
IN THIS WILDERNESS OF CLAY, THE RED-BROWN EARTH IS CRACKED AND SPONGY UNDERFOOT:
108
Andes, in the countrys far north-west. Mountainous ridges,

the exposed ribs of the Western Cordillera, divide this atland
into a series of separate and startlingly different environments.
So to cross the puna in a four-wheel-drive is to climb and fall,
climb and fall, and to be constantly surprised by a landscape
that changes before your eyes. Each new valley constitutes a
new world: visually, botanically, zoologically, geologically even
texturally. One afternoon I strolled across the hard surface
of a salt lake, the top-grade sodium under my boots crunching
exactly like snow that had frozen overnight. An hour later,
I was in a wilderness of clay where the red-brown earth was

cracked and spongy underfoot: to explore it was like walking
across the surface of a slightly over-baked chocolate mufn.
And the mountains, of which there are a great many, all
seemed to belong to different orogenic pedigrees. I saw the
dizzying, icy peaks Llullaillaco, Socompa, Aracar, Guanaquero,
Incahuasi that form the border with Chile. Elsewhere, I passed
some small ashen tors (volcanettoes, you might call them)
arranged in a perfectly straight row, like the black pawns on a
chessboard. Within the puna there were piebald cliff-faces
IT IS LIKE WALKING ACROSS THE SURFACE OF A SLIGHTLY OVER-BAKED CHOCOLATE MUFFIN
The desert outside Tolar Grande in the puna of north-west Argentina. Previous pages, the Cono de Arita. Following pages, Ojos del Mar salt at
THIS FLATLAND IS DIVIDED INTO STARTLINGLY DIFFERENT ENVIRONMENTS. EACH VALLEY
110
CONSTITUTES A NEW WORLD: VISUALLY, BOTANICALLY, GEOLOGICALLY EVEN TEXTURALLY
the variegated colours of ice cream in an Italian gelateria:

green, pink, yellow. Occasionally, there were mountains that
appeared somehow to have ended up in the wrong company:
a brick-red massif conspicuously out of place in a grey-headed
chain; a purple pike amid a custard-coloured col. My favourite
mountains were a nameless range in a stretch of the puna
called the Salar de Antofalla: the slopes were grey and rounded,
and it seemed that if I could just reach up and touch them, they
would be slightly furry, like the ank of a seal pup.
summoned him here. His aim to open up the puna to

visitors seemed far-fetched at the time. People told me
I was crazy, he says. They said: why would anyone go up
there? It is nothing but empty desert.
But with every year that passes, this spectacularly empty
desert is drawing more visitors (usually once they have been
to Buenos Aires and Patagonia). And Salta, gateway to the
plateau, is an attraction in its own right. It is one of the bestpreserved Spanish-colonial cities in South America. The
THERES NO DISCERNIBLE ROAD ACROSS THE PUNA; THE ROUTE CONSISTS OF DIRT
Theres no discernible road across the puna; the route
consists of dirt tracks, so you need a guide who is well
acquainted with the country. Mine was Fabrizio Ghilardi, an
Italian mountaineer who fell in love with this far-ung corner
of Argentina 11 years ago, and came to live here with his
wife Valentina. She is an architect, and she built them a stylish,
rustic house just outside Salta, a city that sits in the valley
below the high table top of the puna. (Finca Valentina is now
a wonderful place to spend a night or two at the start or
end of an expedition.) Ghilardi set up a tour company that
he named Socompa after one of the Andean peaks that
whitewashed town hall on the main square, with its twostorey colonnade, was built by the conquistadors as soon as
they arrived here in the 1580s. The church on the opposite
side of Plaza 9 de Julio a 19th-century mock-baroque
profusion in lilac and cream was erected after a catastrophic
earthquake in 1844 destroyed its predecessor. At the heart
of it is an overblown faux-rococo rocket-ship of an altar,
wrought in solid gold. A block away is the more austere and
attractive Church of San Francisco. Inside, there is an unusual
statue of the Madonna of Sweet Hope: a visibly pregnant
Virgin Mary. It is draped with offerings of knitted booties
Above, the pumice-stone elds outside El Peon. Opposite, mountains along the road between the Cono de Arita and Salar de Antofalla
112
and surrounded with snapshots of babies all ostensibly

conceived as a result of prayers offered to the expectant
mother of God.
The unborn Jesus in the basilica is not Saltas only sacred
child. Just a few steps away, the High-Country Archaeological
Museum was built to house the frozen bodies of three Inca
children a girl of six, a seven-year-old boy and a teenage
girl who were sacriced 500 years ago on the peak of the
Llullaillaco volcano, away to the west. The victims were
there is so much to be amazed by at every turn. Making

the crossing this way means that you save some of the
outstanding sights until the last day, when you reach El Peon,
just inside the plateaus southern fringe. This village is a short
drive from the eerie pumice-stone eld, which looks like the
bitter ruins of Sodom; and from a magical, restless dune of
white sand, like a mountain suddenly come alive. When you
are inside the puna you stay at hosteras municipales, stateowned guesthouses. They are cheerful and comfortable, unfussy
TRACKS, SO YOU WILL NEED A GUIDE WHO IS WELL ACQUAINTED WITH THE COUNTRY
lowered into a pit, along with all sorts of ritual and domestic
objects, and abandoned there as a gift to the Incas greedy gods.
The children would have died of exposure in the course of a
single night. But the dry cold that killed them also preserved
them, more or less in perpetuity. In 1999, the bodies were
excavated and brought to Salta, causing controversy and protest.
I caught sight of the far-off frosted topknot of Llullaillaco,
where the sacricial children were found, at the end of my rst
day inside the puna. Going the whole way across the plateau
from north to south involves long, bumpy days in the car. It can
be tiring, but that is partly because it is constantly exhilarating:
in the nicest possible way. Everyone eats the same meal in

the evening: tallarines (thick Argentinian spaghetti) with
a slice of beef, or barbecued goat with Russian salad. The
electricity goes off during the hours of darkness, but you wont
notice because you will be deadbeat and blissfully asleep.
The hostera at El Peon is better than most, because it is
managed by the Ghilardis. The decor has a touch of Finca
Valentina about it, or rather of Valentinas nely tuned design
sense. Miuccia Prada, when she passed this way in spring
last year, found it charming and bought some of the colourful
local textiles at the village shop in nearby Antofagasta.
Following pages, the barren, russet-coloured mountains outside Tolar Grande, an area known as the Desierto del Laberinto (the Labyrinth Desert)
IT SEEMED THAT IF I COULD JUST REACH UP AND TOUCH THE ROUNDED SLOPES OF THE
114
NAMELESS RANGE, THEY WOULD BE SLIGHTLY FURRY, LIKE THE FLANK OF A SEAL PUP
116
Ms Prada missed out on the amazing Grace Cafayate,

because the hotel opened at the end of 2013. A ve-hour
drive from the edge of the puna, it makes for an extremely
pleasurable homecoming when you arrive, dusty and roadweary, after three days in the parched highlands. This is wine
country, and the ranch-like main building is set in the middle
of an apparently innite acreage of new vines, all of them
heavy-laden with Malbec and Torronts, the two emblematic
Argentinian grapes. The Grace is an outdoorsy hotel in
make the desert tracks so rough and rutted. Id happily kill

them all if I could catch them, Ghilardi had told me.
On our last day in the desert we had passed through the
Vega Colorada, an incongruous green water-meadow at the
lowest point of a desiccated gorge. This oasis was riddled with
becks and gullies that ran deep through the meadow, dividing
it into a jigsaw of islets. It was populated by a great many birds:
puna teals, cinnamon-coloured ground tyrants, Andean geese.
But the lords of this lush kingdom were the vicua, nervous
AFTER DAYS IN THE PARCHED HIGHLANDS, WINE COUNTRY IS A PLEASUREABLE HOMECOMING

an outdoorsy country, so you should be inspired to go
horse-riding in the spectacular puna uplands.
The wildlife up there is almost as diverse as the landscape.
I saw Andean foxes, small, slim and lithe as Siamese cats;
chinchilla scurrying over rocks like fuzzy geckos; great ocks
of barranquero parrots glorying in their blue-green dragony
plumage. I spotted amingos half-asleep on a broad lagoon,
where they arranged themselves in long queues as if waiting
at the locked doors of some invisible shop. I failed to see
any ocultos, but I was very much aware of these little rat-like
creatures because their subterranean tunnels and burrows
deer-like creatures that grazed in little knots all over the

grassland. A few individuals gathered on the steep slope that
formed the vegas back wall. Standing sideways, clinging to the
hillside, they look like decorations hanging from the branches
of a Christmas tree. The verdant meadow was stunning, because
for most of the day we had been trundling across a rocky
steppeland devoid of any life at all. And oddity upon oddity,
the vega ended as suddenly as it started: its far edge was as neat
and clean-cut as the verge of an English lawn. I was getting
used to the quick costume changes of the landscape by now,
but even so, there was nothing for it but to stop and stare.
Above, a sand dune near the pumice-stone eld. Previous pages, from left: the Quebrado del Toro landscape; a cactus on the Camino de los Colorados
118
HOW TO EXPLORE THE PUNA

The puna crossing takes three or four days,
depending on how much car-time you want,
and involves setting off from Salta, driving up
onto the plateau, then heading south through
the desert. If the full expedition seems too
gruelling, base yourself in Salta and take day
excursions into the northern desert. Or go
south and stay in El Peon, from where you can
reach the white dune, the pumice eld and
Laguna Grande with its roosting amingos.
WHERE TO STAY
Finca Valentina, just outside Salta, is chic and
homey, with antique objects such as stirrups
on the mantelpiece and a scarred carpenters
bench on which breakfast is served. There is
a tasty set dinner every evening: green soup
followed by pork with polenta cake. www.
nca-valentina.com.ar; doubles from about 90
If you would rather be in the city, Kkala is a
colourful boutique hotel a short taxi ride from
the centre. The lone suite is the best room.
It is on two levels and has a little balcony. www.
hotelkkala.com.ar; doubles from about 140
Grace Cafayate is a destination hotel in this

up-and-coming region. The suites, in the main
building, are magnicent, and there are 20 villas
good for families a few steps away. The bar
is stocked with every worthwhile wine between
here and Tierra del Fuego. www.gracehotels.com;
doubles from 234, including breakfast
It is a ve-hour drive from Cafayate to El Peon.
If you plan to explore the vineyards along
the way, a good place to spend the night is
Hacienda de Molinos. Formerly the mansion of
a Spanish governor, it has a pretty courtyard
with a huge pepperberry tree. www.hacienda
demolinos.com.ar; doubles from about 55
El Terruo (+54 386 842 2460; about 15 for

two) is the best restaurant on Cafayates main
square. Keep it simple beer and empanadas
then walk to Heladera Miranda (Avenida
General Gemes) for wine-avoured ice cream.
WHERE TO EAT
Rauls asado, in Santa Mara just south of
Cafayate, serves wonderful Argentinian barbecue,
eaten under a tree: steak, ripe tomatoes, bread
and a roughish bottle of red wine. Book through
Socompa (+54 387 431 5974); about 35 for two
In Muse by Jonathan Cartwright at the Grace
Cafayate the food is modern-European, with local
ingredients in dishes such as goats cheese with
wild peach, and llama carpaccio. About 40 for two
GETTING THERE
The writers trip was arranged by Miraviva (+44
20 7186 1111; www.miravivatravel.com) and
organised on the ground by Socompa (www.
socompa.com). Miraviva offers 11 nights from
3,775 per person, including one night in Salta,
one night in Purmamarca, four nights in the puna,
two nights at Grace Cafayate, one night in Buenos
Aires, ights, transfers and guides. British Airways
(www.ba.com) ies from London to Buenos Aires
WHAT TO DO
See mind-bending art at the James Turrell
Museum in Saltas Bodega Colom. Turrells
medium is sunlight, and each room has a piece
of luminous trickery. www.bodegacolome.com
Learn how to make empanadas on a cookery
course at Bodega Piatelli in Cafayate.
www.spanish.piattellivineyards.com
Above, an epic sky over the mountains between Tolar Grande and the Labyrinth Desert
All photographs taken

at Costa Careyes, Mexico
Mohair dress, 1,120,
Giambattista Valli
(www.matchesfashion.
com). Feather earrings,
54, Sweetlime (www.
sweetlime.co.uk).
Opposite, cut-out silk and
leather dress, 3,172;
Essential V earrings, 510,
both Louis Vuitton (www.
louisvuitton.co.uk)
120
ELECTRIC
KOOL AID
PACK A PUNCH OF COLOUR IN A POPBRIGHT

HIDEAWAY ON MEXICOS PACIFIC COAST. STYLED BY
FIONA LINTOTT. PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD PHIBBS
Neoprene and silk top,

1,140, Fendi (www.fendi.
com). Bounce trousers,
355, Pleats Please by
Issey Miyake (www.issey
miyake.com). Hypnotic
earrings, 138, Lulu Frost
(www.lulufrost.com).
Tangeri sandals, 630,
Manolo Blahnik (+44 20
7352 3863). Opposite,
silk-printed dress, 1,500,
Marni (+44 20 7245 9520)
122
Silk dress, 2,500, Dior

(www.dior.com). Journey
earrings, 145, Lulu
Frost (www.lulufrost.
com). Patent-leather
and velvet boots, POA,
Gianvito Rossi for Mary
Katrantzou (www.style
bop.com). Opposite, Les
Facties de Pgase silk
scarves, both 310; Eole
bikini top (just seen),
238, all Herms
(www.hermes.com)
124
Neoprene dress, 175,

Clover Canyon (www.
clovercanyon.com).
Opposite, Stardust
cashmere sweater, 400,
Altuzarra (www.neta-porter.com). Leather
skirt, 2,440, Tod s (www.
tods.com). Pyramid
earrings, 81, Eddie
Borgo (www.eddieborgo.
com). Houndstooth-print
boots, 525, Sophia
Webster (www.sophia
webster.co.uk)
126
Stretch-cotton dress,
3,410, Prada (www.
prada.com). Suede clutch
bag, 1,295, Pierre Hardy
(www.pierrehardy.com).
Tangeri sandals, 630,
Manolo Blahnik (+44 20
7352 3863). Opposite,
wool skirt, 1,259,
Emanuel Ungaro (www.
ungaro.com). Zip earrings,
116, Eddie Borgo
(www.eddieborgo.com).
Dot boots, 1,355,
Pierre Hardy (as before)
Hair, Halley Brisker at
Jed Root, using LOral
Professionnel. Make-up,
Carmindy at Kramer +
Kramer, using Carmindy
& Co. Model, Ragnhild
Jevne at IMG Models.
Costa Careyes (www.
costacareyes.com.mx) has
one-bedroom casitas from
about 315 per night
128
The open-sided main lodge at Singita Boulders with views across the Sand River. The wooden posts that form part of the
structure are clad in copper with hand-painted details. The curved chairs in the centre of the room are from the Yoda
collection by Kenneth Cobonpue, made from stained rattan vines woven on a frame of mild steel
130
GAME CHANGER
SINGITA IS THE COMPANY THAT SHOOK UP THE SAFARI
WORLD A DECADE AGO BY BRINGING SLICK DESIGN AND
SMART SERVICE TO THE WILDERNESS. NOW, WITH A
RADICAL NEW-LOOK LODGE, THEYRE DOING IT AGAIN.
BY PETER BROWNE. PHOTOGRAPHS BY TIM EVAN-COOK
ne thing you learn very quickly

in the African bush is not to draw
attention to yourself. Never wear white
or bright colours, always blend in,
never run or squawk. Safari camps are
meant to be low-key and green-tented;
they crouch out of sight.
And then along came Singita Lebombo
in South Africas Kruger National Park,
an astonishing construction of steeland-glass cubes suspended high above
the Sweni and Nwanetsi rivers, all
grand, white and look-at-me, defying
every accepted notion of what a safari
lodge should be. Id never seen anything
like it and, although 10 years have
passed, I still havent.
Yes, I know, laughs the South African
designer Boyd Ferguson. Lebombo was
a radical departure and it is still ahead
of its time. Ferguson, who owns the
Cape Town-based interior-design company
Ccile & Boyd, is the inspirational
force behind that lodge and every Singita
property before or since, including
Boulders, reviewed here for the rst time
since its recent transformation.
The Singita story began in 1993, when
founder and CEO Luke Bailes, having
bought his neighbours farm adjacent to
the Kruger (and realising he didnt need
two farmhouses), opened Ebony lodge
on the banks of the Sand River. Ferguson
was there from the start. The original
owners left behind a stash of good
furniture and silverware and paintings
collected over 50 years, he remembers,

So we ended up using a lot of it in
Ebony. Even from the beginning, nothing
looked too new or out of place. That rst
lodge has evolved and expanded over
the decades the colour of the slipcovers
has changed many times, the mahogany
chests of drawers have been shunted
about, paintings hung and rehung but
essentially it looks the same as it ever did.
It feels cosy, old-school, enclosed, safe.
OLD AFRICA HANDS AND SAFARI

PURISTS WERE APPALLED WHEN
BOULDERS FIRST OPENED.
HEATED POOLS? A WINE CELLAR?
Their second project would challenge
all of those things. Luke, Mark [Witney,
now head of operations at Singita]
and myself used to sit on these big
granite rocks a little downstream from
Ebony and dream of building our second
camp there, says Ferguson. Boulders
opened in 1996, a ground-breaking,
unapologetically contemporary affair
with 12 enormous, free-form suites built
of rock and fronted by great walls of
glass, with outside showers, sweeping
private decks and plunge pools. At
Ebony wed been trying to keep the
bush at bay, says Ferguson. It was time

to bring the outside in.
Old Africa hands and safari purists
were appalled. Heated pools? A wine
cellar? Imagine! Nothing but a city
hotel in the bush! But with Boulders,
Singita effectively changed the way
we safari. Suddenly expectations were
raised beyond basic camps and tinned
food to swimming pools and fresh
salads. Service entered the equation;
design concepts were introduced into
the conversation along with wildlife
conservation. It was new, exciting and
much criticised for its audacity.
But the punters loved it. Boulders
became Singitas most successful
lodge in Southern Africa. Guests came
back year after year, asking for the
same room, guide and tracker. They
were hooked, much like Aman junkies
developed an addiction to Adrian
Zechas nuanced brand of stripped-back
authenticity in Asia.
After Boulders came Lebombo
(and its quieter, earthbound twin lodge
Sweni) in a private concession in the
Kruger National Park, leased to Bailes
by the South African government in
2003. But Singita really took off as
a brand when it moved into Tanzania
in 2006, taking on management of
the 350,000-acre Grumeti Reserves,
set up by the billionaire philanthropist
Paul Tudor Jones (the incredible
Sasakwa Lodge, with its innity views
Clockwise from top left: the Mozambican water pots at the entrance to the lodge were collected by creative director Boyd Fergusons brother; elemental
landscapes provided inspiration; abstract artworks created with primitive tools were specially commissioned for the suites; reective copper vessels by
Anatomy Design, South Africa; tassel feathers with wooden bead details recall pre-colonial tribal inuences; the wood-panelled library is hung
with a twig-and-copper installation, and hand-painted murals reect the colour and texture of boulders incorporated into the structure (centre);
elephants pass by in front of the lodge; a handcrafted mohair throw with feather tassels on a wing chair made from metal and rattan
133
This page: the romantic beds, recycled from the lodges previous incarnation, are made up in natural ax linen; the bedside lamp is Mortar & Pestle in
copper-plated steel and African mahogany by Egg Designs in Johannesburg. Opposite, clockwise from top left: a primitive-contemporary take on the campre;
vast mobiles in copper hang in the dining room and suites; a glass-fronted bathroom in one of the suites; a collection of skulls, crystals and fossils is
displayed in alcoves in the dining room, and the hardwood tables with oxidised-copper frames are by Egg Designs; boulder-inspired totem sculptures carved
in hardwood; a private plunge pool and deck; woven cane chairs; dip-dyed accent cushions provide the only patterned fabric in the lodge
134
EARLIER THIS YEAR, FERGUSON GAVE ME A BOOK OF IMAGES TO REPRESENT HIS NEW DESIGN CONCEPT.
THINK SAVAGE, PRIMITIVE AND PRIMAL, HE SAID. WE ARE GOING BACK TO LIVE IN CAVES
over the Serengeti, has become the
diamond in Singitas tiara). Grumeti
was followed by Joness magnicent
Zimbabwean property, Pamushana,
and most recently a tented camp in
Lamai a quiet corner of the Serengeti
on the Mara River and Castleton, the
Bailes family home at Sabi Sand, now
a low-key private safari house. In total
there are now 12 Singita lodges and
camps, with plans for a Mozambique
coastal reserve in the pipeline.
Yet Boulders has always been at
the heart of things, and earlier this year
Ferguson, architect Sally Tsiliyiannis
and a team of builders, landscapers and
designers gave the companys hardworking protg a complete facelift.
Although years in the planning, it was
transformed in a six-week, round-theclock frenzy of activity this summer.
before Europeans arrived and started

inuencing things. We are going back
to live in caves.
When I arrived for the great unveiling
in early June the rst outsider allowed
access an exhausted Ferguson greeted
me warmly, introduced me to his team
and showed me around, eager to gauge
my reaction to the completed lodge
and solicit my opinions. He is utterly
had last stayed at Boulders in 2008,

when the lodge was going through
its post-colonial period, working
an indigenous look with Mali mud
cloth and woven Kuba textiles from
the Congo, combining tribal artefacts
with just a trace of white colonialist
fantasy (travel chests and horn trophies).
I cant tell you how revolutionary
Boulders seemed at the time, especially
as every other safari camp seemed stuck
in the Out of Africa era of campaign
furniture, pith helmets and crystal
decanters. But time waits for no designer:
these days you can buy mud-cloth
rip-offs in shopping malls from Cape
Town to Johannesburg, so it was back
to the drawing board.
Earlier this year, Ferguson gave
me a book of images he had gathered
to represent his new design concept
for Boulders. Think savage, primitive
and primal, he said. Nothing too
structured or obviously man-made.
I want simple, sculptural forms,
organic and random the way nature
and we ourselves are formed. I want
to explore ideas around early man,
engaged and never stops working,

rearranging, rethinking.
For something inspired by primal
man, it is a sensationally sophisticated
space, especially the entrance lobby and
seating area with its soaring thatched
roof seemingly held aloft by clusters
of thrusting wooden posts. Everything
Ferguson commissioned, collected or
reimagined from existing furniture (he
likes to recycle) had found its place:
copper mobiles and chunky dark plates
for the dining room; a smooth glass
snake sculpture on a rough wooden table;
vessels positioned to catch the evening
light; even a simple wooden pencil (with
sharpener) on the Singita-branded

notepaper beside the bed.
The deeply calming palette is limited
to bone and bleached skull, to the
browns found in bark and the metallic
sheen of copper, the dark depths of
smoky charcoal and ash. Except for
one or two dip-dyed cushion covers,
there are no patterned materials; the
different textures create their own
designs using light and shade (Ferguson
calls it extreme texture).
One thing I had not anticipated was
the extent to which Fergusons inuence
is felt throughout the rest of Boulders.
There is a new barista to make coffee
and cocktails at the new bar (I did have
to explain that this isnt a 1980s piss-up,
says Ferguson). The chefs have come up
with a new menu (fussy, ddly food would
not sit well in the caveman environment,
nor would dark food on a black plate).
And even the game guides are being
encouraged to rethink how they engage
with guests; in the dining room, skulls and
bones have been mounted in spotlit wall
recesses, labelled as in a science museum,
so as to gently introduce the subject
of wildlife conservation especially the
brilliant work the company is doing to
help eliminate rhino poaching something
both Ferguson and Bailes are determined
to keep at the core of Singita.
After all, whats really important is out
there, says Ferguson, gesturing to the river,
where elephant and giraffe are drinking
contentedly. This is just a backdrop, and
everything in it will always come second
to the natural spendour around us.
Elegant Resorts (+44 1244 897515; www.
elegantresorts.co.uk) offers four nights at
Singita Boulders and Singita Lebombo
from 4,380 per person sharing. The price
is for two nights in a Boulders Lodge Suite
and two nights in a Lebombo Lodge
Suite on an all-inclusive basis, plus British
Airways economy ights, transfers and
inter-lodge ights. British Airways (www.
ba.com/southafrica) ies direct from
Heathrow to Johannesburg twice daily
This page, bedroom detail of a Mortar & Pestle bedside lamp, horn-leg table and feather-and-bead hanging. Opposite: built-in seating in front of
the campre is covered in bark-coloured fabric from St Leger & Viney in Cape Town; the boulder side table is in polished cement. Large, organic
wooden sculptures commissioned by Ccile & Boyd feature in the main lodge and all of the suites
137
Over one?
Blue lobster, purple asparagus and
quince vinegar dressing at Le Bistrot au
Bord de lEau, Hostellerie de Levernois
138
Burgundy Michelin star heartland

but for som t all to uch t swallow...
By Stephen Bayley.
Photograph by Li Linder
ur-gun-dy. The three

resonant syllables seem
to promise something of
the riches this historic
and avoursome terroir
made famous. Burgundy?
A red wine thats become
an eponym for luxury.
The ever-present memories
of good and fearless dukes, their feasts
and tournaments, cruelties and ourishes,
mistresses and monuments, as well as the
great paintings they left behind: Rogier
van der Weydens epic Last Judgement in
Beaunes LHtel Dieu is a majestic
synopsis of wealth and the mortal fear it
brings. Its an illustration of a hangover.
To Curnonsky, the belle-poque
gastronome, Burgundy was the paradise
of paradises. Certainly, it has some of the
prettiest landscape in all France. You nd
gentle farmland with not much drama
of the geological sort: the famous CtedOr may be an escarpment, but raw
nature has been smoothed by centuries of
cultivation and civilisation. Burgundy
proves that the two feed off each other.
The agricultural product is Pinot Noir
or Chardonnay: two grapes which, fettled
140
and tended and marked-up by leatheryngered vignerons and twinkly-eyed

ngociants and all the other species of
go-betweens in the bafingly complicated
Burgundy wine trade, create a universe
of experience from the spit-it-out awful to
the (rarer) heart-soothing sublime.
Then there are the snails, foie gras,
frogs legs, jambon persill, sweetbreads,
chickens and Epoisses cheese which, since
Philippe le Bon rst pulled on his scratchy
woollen tights, have comprised the regional
cuisine. I have been coming here since I
was a student in a battered Citron, making
regular stops in Beaune en route to friends
in the Jura. My trip this time, with my wife,
ended in a windy eld with Mont Blanc
in the distance. Aristocratic Bresse hens
white with blue legs and red crops,
tricouleur poultry ranged free and the
whiff of farmyard reminded me of John
Armits ineffable advice on wine tasting:
good Burgundy should smell of merde.
Joigny, especially in the drizzle, fulls
many anticipations. The lonely nouvellevague girl on the station platform; the bold
graphics of the Agence de la Gare (a
liaison of Le Corbusier and Tintin); the
corset-coloured pebbledash of the Bistro
de la Gare, with its old Kronenberg signs

and pitiless strip lighting. I nd all of
this almost intolerably romantic, but our
destination is elsewhere. If Joignys Bistro
de la Gare is a frazzled old hooker with
bad teeth, Joignys riverbank La Cte
Saint Jacques, is a serene grande dame,
immaculately primped and maintained,
even if a little bit against nature. Alter
a single detail, ask for a change of pace,
and you fear the stitches might burst.
La Cte Saint Jacques has had three
Michelin stars since 1986 and condently,
even perhaps a little complacently, presents
an essentially French version of luxury
and food. The Michelin system now has
many critics who say it is biased towards
France, hostile to innovation, puts a false
emphasis on ludicrous renements and
mistakes complexity for sophistication.
Exactly so. This is the point. The Michelin
system promotes fuss and contrivance
above bestial gratication, and this is why it
is magnicent: just like the Acadmie
Franaise, it arrogantly refuses change and
will never succumb to barbarian penetration.
It is a thing unto itself, unalterably French.
But before dinner we check into our
room, also unalterably French. The theme
From left: Hostellerie

de Levernois; snails,
girolles, chanterelles
and garlic custard at La
Cte Saint Jacques;
garden at Abbaye de la
Bussire; a dish titled
Anatomy of a Fish on
Oyster Theme at La
Cte Saint Jacques
is brown, quite unnegotiably so. There is

strange, geometric-patterned upholstery
on a chair with a white-painted bamboo
frame. A tunnel with a mirrored wall
and ceiling, like an exciting concept for
a 1960s discotheque, leads to a bathroom
thats huge with reected light from the
river, but inexplicably uncomfortable.
Bresse chickens steamed in Champagne,

the house signature dish? I am lost in
contemplation when, like a manager
before a match, Jean-Michel Lorain, the
chef, arrives to give customers a pep talk.
I wonder if he also does this at half time
when we change ends and put on clean
shirts. Asking if we need explanation or
beside the point because this is theatre,

not dinner. It is about the chef, not about
the eater. Anyway: to amuse-our-mouth,
a cappuccino of lobster with poireaux
vinaigrette. A ve-way deconstruction
of oysters. I can happily taste them
now. Bass steamed and smoked with
caviar (farmed in Aquitaine). My wife said
What w at wa almost besid th point becaus thi

theatr, not inner. It about th chef, not about th eater
The restaurant at La Cte Saint Jacques
presents privilege, expertise and archaic
cultural isolation. It is 7.40pm and the staff
are standing tensely around the threshold
while the bars occupants are preparing
to disengage from Champagne and go to
dinner. This being three-star France, a
party of four at the adjacent table has been
discussing niceties of the menu for 20 minutes
with the matre d. The menu offers A
spring walk between earth, sea and forest
for around 55. What about one of those
changes, Lorain, who it turns out has

prepared a menu specially for us, is not
looking as if he wants to explain or change
anything much. He assures us without
smiling I am not tyrannique.
Here you begin to experience the
complicated wonder of it all, the density
of preparation that gives an establishment
the three-star status for which, in turn,
provincial folk will pay up to 200 for
dinner and not grumble about it. And
thats without wine. What we ate is almost
yum. Next, snails with sweet garlic, lentils

and morels followed by cubes of veal
treated in three ways: tte de veau, tongue,
llet. A shockingly delicious and oily
Meursault from Olivier Leaive.
Next morning we drive south to Chablis
where a genial rogue in a seven-seater
minivan meets us up an alleyway for a
vineyard tour. A mere 5,200 hectares
provide the planets benchmark for inty
white wine: from the heights scaled by the
van you appreciate the artice. Gas tanks
Th whiff of th farmyard eminded of som neffabl
Clockwise from far left: Hostellerie de Levernois;

lobster and endive risotto carbonara at La Cte Saint
Jacques; garden at Chteau Chassagne; staircase at
Abbaye de la Bussire; Acquerello risotto with frogs
legs and snails, and vanilla and cherry Paris-Brest, at
Levernois; sign in Levernois village; rose ice cream in a
crisp tulip shell at La Cte Saint Jacques
advic on win tasting: good Burgundy should smell of merd
On ember of staff, I felt, could

strangl critic whil
manhandling six pigskin bag
from th boot of an Aston
Summer-fruit sponge cake

at Bistrot au Bord de lEau,
Hostellerie de Levernois
heat the vineyards while helicopters spray.

The rogue gets a tripod stool from the
back of the Nissan and, in a cutting wind,
opens a bottle of Petit Chablis, nicely
described as a ptanque wine. We taste,
we spit and we carry on to Dijon for lunch.
n my rattling Citron days,

Dijon was a busy, engaging town,
but doctrinaire pedestrianisation
has made it less dangerous,
therefore more antiseptic.
International clothes shops
have replaced mad trafc and
something characterful has been lost. Our
destination is Loiseau des Ducs, off the
vast and chilly Place de la Libration, just
in front of the Muse des Beaux-Arts where
once the dukes of Burgundy made sport.
It was the suicide of Burgundys
Bernard Loiseau in 2003 that made
people question the integrity and sense
of the Michelin star system: his Saulieu
restaurant retained its three stars even
after the gun had done its sombre work.
But it was, they said, the pressures of the
rating system that had, in any case, driven
him to the bottle and then the trigger.
Loiseau des Ducs is La Veuve Loiseaus
latest brand extension, a sort of gastromemorial following the signature pinafores.
Its menu features the presiding spirits
classics: jambonettes (frogs legs) and a
st-sized ris de veau with a positively ducal
excess of trufed mash. My wife said,
Whats that green thing youve just put
your hand in? as we looked bemused at
uninvited kitchen gifts, including a beetroot
velout with cinnamon foam. Like all art
forms, there is a skill-talent-genius triarchy
in cooking. Here, we felt, was only skill.
Perhaps that is what one star means.
One of the pleasures of the Michelin
Guide Rouge is its precise symbology:
besides the stars, there are knives and
forks, diving boards and ironing boards to
indicate a hotels attractions and assets.
When we arrived at the Abbaye de la
Bussire, I wondered if little silhouettes
of expensive cars might be included as
well. Until recently it was a run-down
religious institution with plastic stacking
chairs and furtive monks; there were two
Swiss-registered Aston Martins in the car
park when our rental Renault pulled up.
This is a wonderful place: English
owner Clive Cummimgs has reconciled
Viollet-le-Ducs theory of Gothic restoration
with country-house-hotel practice. Our
bedroom was like sleeping in Philippe le
Bons junk room, all tapestries and
drapes. I liked the ex-Legionnaire gofer,
Robert, who, I felt certain, could strangle

a critic while manhandling six pigskin
bags from the boot of an Aston with his
other hand. In nave-like spaces and on
the primped lawn there are bad-sex Paul
Day sculptures; I drank an exceptionally
delicious Mcon-Vergisson with a
stained-glass window as a backdrop while
waiting for my wife and dinner.
At the top of Emmanuel Hbrards
menu there is a rubric about gastronomys
relationship with nutrition and happiness
sourced from Oxfords chair of Francophilia,
Theodore Zeldin. A waiter appeared. I
thought he was offering road sauce with
yet more frogs legs, but I had misheard
root and a celeriac pure was in mind.
This was good. We drank Rully La Perche
from the Domaine Belleville and I
felt Burgundian. Pleasantly before, and
necessarily after dinner, you can ride
bikes along the beautiful and hauntingly
empty Canal de Bourgogne. There are owls.
Further south, just outside Beaune at
Levernois, we saw three helicopters on
the lawn at the Hostellerie de Levernois,
suggesting another possible addition
to Michelins symbology. That and those
square parasols signifying hotel hipness.
Jean Louis Bottiglieros compound of
bistro, restaurant and hotel was the most
modern we found in Burgundy, but in a
good way. We ate a perfect jambon
persille, a tartare of tomatoes with raw
langoustines and escargots with garlic that
had been cooked six times to reduce
strength while retaining avour. Oeufs en
meurette with a white (instead of trad red)
wine reduction was very clever. I asked
Bottigliero if having only one Michelin
star was a liberation and a relief and not
the imposition that three stars bring. He
rather agreed. Guests milled pleasantly
between the terrace and the choppers
while we dozed in the hull of a boat
watching gnats in the rivers sunshine.
In the celebrated Maison Lameloise
at Chagny is another of Frances three
stars. A copy of Curnonsky in the bar (la
cuisine, cest quand les choses ont le gout
de ce quelles sont) was promising while
escargot popcorn indicated ambition, if not
bon got. I stared at the menu. Langoustines
came with riz croustillant which seemed
to mean Rice Krispies. At the next table
an American couple was insisting in a
spelling-it-out way: Tomorrow. I. Want.
Meat, Cheese. And. Red. Wine. The
bedrooms reminded me of a hotel in St
Albans I stayed in when I was 10. At
breakfast, the orange juice was packaged.
I spoke to some English cooks about this
and they said such a transgression merited

a Dreyfus-like breaking of the chefs
sword and public shaming. So here it is.
We drove to a nal night at the Chteau
de Besseuil, a wine estate outside Mcon,
nicely re-worked into agritourisme by Swiss
architect Andr Meillard. It was calm and
beautiful. We lolled in the vineyard in strong
sunshine, but, alas, French employment laws
make it impossible for a rural establishment
to run a credible restaurant of the Chteaus
ambitions. Tired stuff was rolled out at
breakfast. We clucked and then drove on to
the chickens in their eld south of Dole.
What does it say of France that Bresse
chickens live better than Sarkos racaille
with 10 square metres each, good diets
and ocks restricted to 500 birds? What
does it say of France that their melting
esh marbled with fat is much admired in
Burgundy, but against modern English
taste? Yet if I told a Frenchman I like
chicken with crisp brown skin served with
a bright green salad and a decent baguette,
he would call me unsophisticated.
A lot has changed in the nearly 40
years since I rst parked my Citron up
against some vines in a dusty car park. I
enjoy clever inventions and beguiling
curiosities on what I call the Andouillette
Principle: if I cease to order them they will,
like chitterlings, disappear and that would
be sad. But why have a mini cheese souf
with the lamb? Why bring uncommanded
trays of sweet things? Why put owers on
food? Is it generosity or arrogance?
On the other hand, if I am going to
die I would like to die with a glass of
Volnay Premier Cru Hospices de Beaune
in my hand, having eaten some of JeanMichel Lorains snails and feasted on the
sight of vines disappearing to the horizon
in a golden haze over the sonorously
beautiful names of Pommard, PulignyMontrachet and Clos Vougeot.
La Cte Saint-Jacques (+33 3 86 62 55
12; www.cotesaintjacques.com). Doubles
from about 180; menus from about 115.
Loiseau des Ducs (+33 3 80 30 28 09; www.
bernard-loiseau.com). Menus from about 15.
Abbaye de la Bussire (+33 3 80 49 02 29;
www.abbaye-dela-bussiere.com). Doubles
from about 170; menus from 40.
Hostellerie de Levernois (+33 3 80 24 73
58; www.levernois.com). Doubles from
about 110; menus from about 55. Chteau
de Besseuil (+33 3 85 36 92 49; www.chateau
debesseuil.com). Doubles from about 110;
menus from about 20. Maison Lameloise
(+33 3 85 876 565; www.lameloise.fr/us).
Doubles from about 105; menus from
105. Visit www.burgundy-tourism.com
145
ONCE BITTEN
WORDS BY REGGIE NADELSON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY BALL & ALBANESE
146
Clockwise: cookies at Sag

Harbor Baking Company;
a Larry Rivers sculpture
on Madison Street;
Black Swan Antiques;
sampling ice creams from
Big Olass. Opposite,
LT Burger on Main Street
JUST A HOP, SKIP AND JUMP FROM MANHATTAN IS THE SALTY OLD WHALING
TOWN OF SAG HARBOR, THE LOW-KEY, REAL-DEAL, INSIDERS ALTERNATIVE
TO THE HAMPTONS FOR A LATE-SUMMER STATESIDE ESCAPE
Clockwise: Bloom on Madison

Street; a room at Topping Rose
House; Sag Harbor street art;
Urban Zen shop on Bay Street;
a cake from the Pepalajefa deli.
Opposite: Urban Zen; Pepalajefa
ag harbor, main street.

American ags snap in the stiff
breeze coming in from the
water, where sailing boats bob
on the benign Peconic Bay.
The sky is marine blue, the
sun bright, the air crystalline
with a tang of salt.
Along Main, locals and visitors ramble
past the Art Deco movie theatre, the oldfashioned barber shop and The American
Hotel, where Billy Joel, in a baseball cap
and shades, is having lunch on the porch.
Im eating my lobster BLT at the next table
and trying not to stare: this little town on
the East End of Long Island is not the
kind of place you ogle the famous. Its
not like the celebrity-infested Hamptons
a few miles south. The un-Hampton, its
most passionate partisans call it, and there
are plenty of them, like me.
I love this place. The minute I arrive,
its like heaven, if I believed in such a
thing, or at least a plate of freshly dug,
fat, briny clams.
Its hardly a provincial backwater,
though not distressingly urban, says Ted
Conklin, The American Hotels owner, who
at 63 is given to wearing a preppy summer
148
uniform of deck shoes, Bermuda shorts and

polo shirt. The people neighbours and
transients are from every spectrum of
society. There are rich and poor, the famous,
the infamous and the anonymous. Artists
and writers, tradespeople, politicians,
diplomats, lm-makers and poets. Some
on the way up, some on the way down, and
some on the way out. There is something
perfectly old-world about the idea of
tradespeople and diplomats summering
together, more or less, by the sea.
But Im off now on my rental bike to
look around this town where I once lived.
I pedal down Main Street and ve minutes
later Im at the bay. Long Wharf, marked
by the old windmill, is full of sticky-faced
kids gobbling ice cream with chocolate
sprinkles from Big Olass. Im having mint
chocolate chip in a wafe cone, thanks,
sprinkled with intense nostalgia.
If I stand with my back to the water, the
town lies in front of me spreading out in
the shape of a messy slab of apple pie. The
left-hand edge, Bay Street, runs along the
marinas and connects to Division Street,
or route 114; follow it for six or seven miles
through pretty woods and youre in East
Hampton with its glorious Atlantic Ocean
beaches. This is the land of designer shops,

a multiplex, fancy food and the sound of
the nearly famous wrangling over invites
to parties for the Clintons. Here, among the
very grand and elegant summer cottages,
McMansions have sprouted like enormous,
hideously deformed vegetables.
Some East Hamptonites, including the
British Labour MP Shaun Woodward, have
made a break for Sag. Woodward saw a
for sale sign in the yard of an 1840 Greek
Revival house and bought it. Love at rst
sight, he says: The house is in the heart of
town, minutes from the harbour, and the
idea of living in this vibrant community of
artists and writers just hooked me.
Back to my piece of pie. The right side
is Main Street; it takes you through the
little shopping precinct, past The American
Hotel, a few restaurants and then, a few
blocks on, some of the most glorious early19th-century houses: pristine little salt
boxes, grand two-storey affairs with cupolas
and porticos; they are almost all wood,
shutters painted black or green. Neon-blue
hydrangeas bloom in the back yards.
Little kids are shouting and falling off
their bikes on the grid of residential streets
with their narrow sidewalks, picket fences,
A RED MUSTANG ONCE OWNED BY TRUMAN CAPOTE WAS PARKED

ACROSS THE ROAD FROM MY HOUSE ON MADISON STREET
heavy green trees, the scent of honeysuckle.

Sag is only two square miles, with 2,500
year-round inhabitants. Nobody locks their
front door. I never did, when I lived here at
216 Madison Street in a chunky two-storey
place the colour of melted Hershey bars.
Random orange-and-yellow daisies pushed
up through the front drive, and there was
a hammock in the back yard where I lay
and read most of the day. Once a week,
an enormous teenager would show up,
pushing a lawn-mower loud as Concorde.
The huge maple trees towered overhead.
Seagulls swooped, and at dinnertime we
plucked hamburgers off the outdoor grill.
A red Mustang once owned by Truman
Capote was parked across the road. It
belonged, as I recall, to some guys who
kept the deed to their house in the newel
post on their staircase. The nial had
been replaced with a scrimshaw button;
I liked imagining that the sailor who lived
there had carved it from a piece of
whalebone once upon a time.
My crappy old bike was parked at the
back of the house, where I listened to
the cicadas like little men in the bushes
winding their watches, as somebody said
once and the tinkle of ice cubes from next
door. I never did get an invitation. Sag

Harbor is a private place and its not always
easy to break into the local society. If I
was lonely, I loved it anyway. The stupidest
thing I ever did was not buy that house.
Secretly, as I pedal around, Im wondering
if I can afford one now.
Early the next morning, after a night
at the glamorous new Topping Rose
House hotel, I ride my bike into sleeping
Sag Harbor, up Main Street, turn left
at the windmill, over the bridge to Sags
suburbs, through North Haven with
its gorgeous waterfront mansions to
Noyac and Long Beach, a sandy stretch
along the bay. With no one else around,
I go for a solitary swim.
Astonishingly, sag harbor is only 80 miles
from New York City. I take the Hampton
Jitney, a dedicated bus service, at 40th Street;
and a few minutes later were through the
Midtown Tunnel and out to Long Island.
To get a sense of the geography, look at
a map of the island. It looks like a whale
chasing the little sardine that is Manhattan.
The whales tail is what is known as the
East End of Long Island, and where it splits,
it becomes the North Fork and South Fork.
And on the south side of the South Fork,

along the Atlantic, are the Hamptons. On
the north side (of the South Fork), on the
Peconic Bay, sits Sag Harbor. Got it?
Sag Harbors great prize is its deep-water
port. In the early 1900s, Sag and Nantucket,
off the coast of Cape Cod, were the biggest
whaling centres in the USA. Almost as soon
as I arrive, I head for Oakland Cemetery
not far from Main Street, where theres a
monument to the Bold and Enterprising
Ship Masters who perished in actual
Encounters with the Monsters of the Deep.
On the tombstone of a Portuguese sailor is
written: Dead Men tell no Tales. But here,
they do; they tell the tales of a time when
whale oil fuelled the American dream. It lit
the world. Until petroleum and kerosene
came along, Sag Harbor was Texas.
In Sag Harbor: A Literary Celebration,
the late Wilfrid Sheed, a wonderful AngloAmerican author and Sag resident, writes:
Whaling gave Sag Harbor its style, its
culture, its money, back when the whalers
were the adventurers and junk-bond dealers,
the proteers and entrepreneurs of the
rst half of the l9th century.
On the Jitney out, Ive been looking
through my school copy of Herman
Clockwise from left: the motor

yacht owned by The American
Hotel; the Bloom store; the
bakery counter at Pepalajefa;
the garden at Urban Zen; Mecox
Beach, Bridgehampton; the
Dock House seafood restaurant;
pastries at Pepalajefa; Richard J
Demato gallery on Main Street;
Black Swan Antiques; a beach
on Noyac Bay. Above, furniture
at Black Swan Antiques. Above
right, the Urban Zen shop
150
Melvilles Moby-Dick. On Main Street, at

Canios bookshop, locals used to read the
whole damn book aloud every summer.
Stick around town a while and you sense
the raunchy, ambitious place he wrote
about, especially at the Sag Harbor Whaling
and Historical Museum; housed in a Greek
Revival mansion designed by Minard
Lafever, the hotshot architect of the period,
it has grand Corinthian columns outside.
Inside there are dioramas of whaling days,
weapons, scrimshaw, paintings and artefacts
such as the needlepoint a sailors wife did
that reads: Christ Before Pilate. Some of
the voyages lasted four years, the women
pacing the widows walks on top of their
houses, looking out to sea for their men.
Lafever also built the Presbyterian Old
Whalers Church, with its Egyptian Revival
spire and pews of hand-carved Cuban
mahogany brought home on the ships. The
steeple was 185ft high, visible for miles at
sea. In the hurricane of 1938, it blew away.
Luck made Sag Harbor rich in the
1830s and 1840s, right at the time of
Candy Kitchen, where the owner kept a

goat out back for milk. Theres no goat at
the Candy Kitchen today, so far as I know,
but the ice cream is still the best around.
African American communities are part
of the legacy of both the whaling era and
the later period when there was plenty
of cheap land. Whaling was a multi-racial
industry: African Americans, Creoles,
Shinnecock Indians if you were young
and tough, you could get a ship.
Follow Division Street until it becomes
Hampton and branches out to Hempstead
and you come to Eastville, the original
African American neighbourhood. Some
say St Davids, the 174-year-old church, was
a station on the Underground Railroad
that brought slaves north to freedom.
More African Americans came in
the 1930s and 1940s, looking for holiday
houses. In Colson Whiteheads semiautobiographical coming-of-age novel
Sag Harbor, the authors alter-ego Benji
ponders the black vacation spot: Certainly
that rst generation claimed and settled
BEFORE PETROLEUM REPLACED WHALE OIL AS

THE WORLDS FUEL, SAG HARBOR WAS TEXAS
Americas loveliest domestic architecture.

In the 1850s, whale oil was replaced by
coal oil and petroleum, and young men
went west, lured by the California gold
rush. Sag Harbor was left impoverished,
suspended in time, like a Long Island
Pompeii. By the time ugliness entered
America, Sag Harbor couldnt afford it,
wrote Wilfrid Sheed.
For more than 100 years it remained
isolated at the end of Long Island, with
only some shing and a few attempts at
industry to keep it ticking over. And even
that disappeared. When I bought the
American Hotel in 1972, Ted Conklin
says, there were 23 lunch rooms on Main
Street. By the end of the year, when all
the factories shut down, there were none.
Later in the day, I get a cab to take me
the few miles to Bridgehampton. The
driver, Ben Gilliam, tells me he was born
here in 1932. An African American,
Gilliam says, My parents came up from
the south to pick cucumbers. We always
went into Sag Harbor to see the doctor.
And after church, my father would give
us each 10 cents for ice cream at the
on Sag Harbor Bay because the south side

was off-limits the white people owned the
coastline, Southampton, Bridgehampton,
East Hampton. Around Eastville, summer
communities Sag Harbor Hills, Azurest,
Ninevah Beach grew up, with streets called
Robeson (for singer, actor and activist
Paul Robeson), Cuffee (Jeremiah Cuffee
shipped out in 1823) and Washington (for
George Washington Carver, scientist and
educator). There are about 500 houses,
many with direct access to private sandy
beaches that overlook Sag Harbor and
Gardiners Bay, a mile or two from Long
Wharf and the centre of town.
Lena Horne came, so did the poet
Langston Hughes and, as a boy, Colin
Powell. Property stayed in families for
generations, and there were weddings and
sh fries and bridge parties.
Life has changed, says Dianne McMillan
Brannen, a real-estate agent who married
into one of the long-time black families
in Ninevah Beach. There are contending
forces in the Sag Harbor area, she adds.
With some of the older generation dying
off, and the property boom, whites are
buying in. Young people dont necessarily
The MONC XIII store. Above,

Long Wharf promenade. Below,
by the beach on Noyac Bay
want to keep the houses. Some would

rather build by the ocean in East Hampton,
says Brannen, who herself has a summer
house in Oak Bluffs on Marthas Vineyard,
another traditionally black vacation
town. But Im nding the buyers I work
with are all like-minded people. They
appreciate the sense of community, the
friendliness, and that when they walk down
the beach they get a Good morning
and How are you? They are all here
because they like the beauty.
At a talk in the local library one evening,
Whitehead says, The traditions will stay
as long as people keep them alive, but real
estate in this area trumps everything else.
Sag Harbor is on re, says local builder
Tom ODonoghue. I get in touch because I
gure a good builder knows all the secrets,
and I am forever dreaming of my little
cottage, the ramshackle cabin I can turn
into my dream house. Prices have been
skyrocketing. Even a little xer-upper goes
for a couple of million, says ODonoghue,
who came here from Ireland more than a
quarter of a century ago. Even the younger
writers are being priced out.
with Bob Woodward broke the Watergate

story) pauses and leans on the porch
railing. He greets me charmingly, just in
case he knows me (he doesnt) and
engages Conklin in a conversation about
the Aston Martin parked up the street.
Ralph Laurens, I hear them say. Two
million? They mean the car.
Well, Lauren lives in East Hampton,
but times are changing for sure. The old
red-brick Victorian watch factory has
been turned into condos starting at two
million. At MONC XIII on Madison
Street you can pick up Herms mugs, and
Cavaniolas, the great cheese shop, makes
duck sandwiches on brioche.
Still, you can always get a beer at Murfs
Backstreet Tavern, or a paper plate of
fresh crab at the sh store. Like everyone
else, whenever I come here I check out
the Five and Dime; so long as the place
remains, people comment, nodding wisely,
Sag Harbor is ne. Oh yes, so long as
theres the Five and Dime
Newcomers, who pay big bucks for their
houses, adore the authentic character of the
town. Writers grumble, and regard them
THIS TOWN IS A SANCTUARY FOR WRITERS. YOU

SEE THEM GOING EGO TO EGO IN THE HOTEL BAR
Sag Harbor: sanctuary for writers, some

successful, some plain broke. John Steinbeck
was followed by E L Doctorow (Ragtime),
Thomas Harris (The Silence of the Lambs),
Walter Mosley (who set The Man in My
Basement here), Spalding Gray (Swimming
to Cambodia). And all of them, when they
werent holed up writing, were drinking in
The American Hotel. Truman Capote, Tom
Wolfe, Salman Rushdie and Kurt Vonnegut,
who lived over in the Hamptons or were
visiting, joined them. Some still do. There
were famous ghts, guys going ego to ego.
At night, even now, men in their Guccis,
no socks, sit on the porch wielding big
cigars, quafng malt whisky or Bordeaux
from the legendary hotel cellar. When he
bought the run-down hotel, Tom Conklin
imagined a place where plumbers and
writers could mix. Most of the plumbers
are gone, Im guessing. As Conklin pours
me a wonderful glass of ros, people amble
into the dining room; this is the best place
in town for dinner, and the prettiest, with
candlelight and fresh oysters.
Everyone who passes stops to gossip
with Conklin, and now Carl Bernstein (who
152
with derision, even as they watch their

own property prices soar.
But, as Ted Conklin points out, you need
change. Locals understand, as the whalers
did, that there must be some development,
even hustle, for a dynamic, vibrant town;
to be quaint is to be doomed to life in a
museum. Its about the magical balance of
nature and neighbourhood, the ebb and
ow of visitors, access to New York and the
rest of the world, he says. My short answer
to your question about why I love Sag
Harbor? It is the centre of the universe!
The sun is hovering low over the water.
I head for Dockside, a laid-back restaurant
that serves delicious salads, chowders and
sh, with a veranda facing the yacht club.
An immense boat, a big James Bond of a
thing, all tinted windows and interplanetary
navigational equipment, is lit up as if for
Christmas. Babes in bikinis lean over the
railings clutching Champagne glasses.
From the American Legion next door,
the band strikes up for one of its summer
concerts. The stars come out, then the moon.
Fireworks, gold, silver, red, white and blue
spill from the sky over Sag Harbor.
WHERE TO STAY
The American Hotel Just eight pretty
bedrooms, a bar where everyone meets, and
one of the top wine cellars in the country.
This really is the only place to stay in Sag
Harbor proper; and, for a blow-out evening,
its the best place to eat. 49 Main Street
(+1 631 725 3535; www.theamericanhotel.
Topping Rose House Not strictly in Sag
Harbor, but a stones throw away and the
rst smart new hotel and spa in these parts.
The main house is a 19th-century mansion;
the rooms are modern but retain character.
The contemporary private cottages in the
grounds have little porches. Its only a mile or
two from Sagg Main Beach, one of the most
glorious on the Atlantic. 1 Bridgehampton
(+1 631 537 0870; www.toppingrosehouse.
MAP: GARY VENN
EATING & DRINKING

Candy Kitchen This diner is just across the
street from the Topping Rose and a good
option for breakfast. It also has the best ice
cream in the area. 2391 Montauk Highway,
Bridgehampton (+1 631 537 9885)
Dockside Bar & Grill No reservations but
worth the wait. This is my favourite restaurant
in Sag Harbor. Its in the American Legion
building and very laid-back. You can eat
here from 11.30am until closing time around
11pm. There are salads, wraps, good sh
and seafood, and specials that might include
lobster-and-avocado spring rolls, frizzle

shrimp rolls and whole sea-bass with soy and
ginger. Good cocktails, decent wine, chatty
waiters. 26 Bay Street (+ 1 631 725 7100; www.
docksidesagharbor.com). About 50 for two
The Dock House Eat in or take out the
freshest lobster, clams, oysters, the lot.
Try the sh and chips. This is food on paper
plates, with plastic forks, and its the real
American deal for summertime on the coast.
1 Long Wharf (+1 631 725 7555; www.
dockhouseny.com). About 50 for two
Murfs Backstreet Tavern My favourite
pub, this is a ramshackle joint, with great
drinks, cold beer, a wonderful jukebox full
of oldies. The worst-kept secret in Sags
back streets. 64 Division Street (+1 631 725
8355; murfstavern.com)
Cavaniolas Gourmet The best place to buy
prepared fancy food and ingredients. The
cheese shop is beautifully edited, even it
comes with a bit too much attitude at times;
wonderful roast chickens, duck sandwiches,
great soups. You will never cook again once
youve been here. 89 Division Street (+1 631
725 0095; www.cavaniola.com)
MOOCHING ABOUT
MONC XIII A homeware store with
gorgeous mid-century pieces, table-top
beauties in glass, porcelain and silver,
cashmere and mohair throws. Great for
those who like the best of Hamptons high
style... without the Hamptons. Gorgeous
and very expensive. 40 Madison Street (+1

631 808 3333; www.monc13.com)
Bloom A wonderfully curated, somewhat
mannered shop in an old house at the edge
of the village. Chic baby clothes, plates
and glasses, scrubbed-down furniture (oh,
those trestle tables), a sort of back yard
with terric outdoor furniture and planters.
Very cool, very chic, except for the strange
selection of photographs. 43 Madison Street
(+1 631 725 5940)
The Sag Harbor Variety Store This classic
Five and Dime is the place for a taste of
unpretentious old Sag, with lots of toys and
silly souvenirs. Great fun. 114 Main Street (+1
631 725 9706; www.sagharborvariety.com)
Sag Harbor Whaling & Historical Museum
The history and artefacts of Sag Harbor
as a great whaling town and very rich port,
housed in a classic mansion. Its terric
for a couple of hours easy absorption.
200 Main Street (+1 631 725 0770; www.
sagharborwhalingmuseum.org)
Bay Street Theater This theatre often puts
on plays and shows by New York City-calibre
directors and actors. Expect anything from
Shakespeare to stand-up comedy. Long Wharf
(+1 631 725 9500; www.baystreet.org)
Sag Harbor Cinema Built as a burlesque
house around 1913, it shows art movies
and rst-run features. Its also one of the
venues for the Hamptons International
Film Festival in October. 90 Main Street
(+1 631 725 0010) RN
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A TRAVELLERS TALES
AROUND THE WORLD WITH
STANLEY TUCCI
PHOTOGRAPH: NIGEL PARRY/CPI SYNDICATION
His films have set him in high-powered New York (The Devil Wears Prada) and a high-octane
future universe (The Hunger Games) but the down-to-earth actor likes to call London home
Where have you just come
back from?
A house called Villa Blanca in Puglia.
The wonderful people at The Thinking
Traveller helped us nd it. It was right
near the ocean, but you could also walk
into town. Ive stayed in places in Italy
where youre in a beautiful, bucolic
spot but you have to drive everywhere,
and I like to walk.
Where in the world have you
felt happiest?
Wherever my kids are. But I would say
either skiing, or almost anywhere in Italy.
My father was an artist and we lived in
Florence when I was a child.
Which is your favourite city,
and why?
London. Ive lived here for about a year
and have been visiting often for the last
few years. It has all the great stuff New
York has, but it still feels like a small
town. Its also an astounding international
food mecca not only the restaurants,
but also the access to good produce. And
of course, for a newcomer, I love the
proximity to the rest of Europe.
Which is your road most travelled?
Route 45 from my house in Westchester
County into New York City. Not a
lot of fun.
Describe your favourite view
From The Gritti Palace hotel overlooking
the Grand Canal. But also I remember a
view from a house I rented in Tuscany
a long time ago. It was so extraordinary
it looked fake, like someones ideal of
Tuscany. That whole area around
Montepulciano is just staggering.
What do you pack first?
My TRX, which is a piece of exercise
equipment. I like to eat, so I work out,
and then I can eat more.
Describe a memory from a
childhood holiday
We didnt take a lot of holidays because
there wasnt a lot of money, but we
did go to Cape Cod once or twice and
I remember lolling about on the beach.
We went skiing in Vermont too, and I
loved that. Wed rent some place in the
woods and I would ski with my dad and
my cousin. It was great.
Where did you go on your first

holiday without your parents?
I went on vacation with my girlfriend
the rst time I had any sort of money.
I cant remember where exactly, but
it was just terrible. We stayed in a
place that overlooked an oil renery.
God, it was awful.
Describe a holiday disaster
The rst trip I ever took with my rst
wife she passed away ve years ago
was to the Venice Film Festival and then
Paris. We stayed at the Hotel Esmeralda
in Paris, and someone tried to break in
through the window. Wed had the best
night out, got back at about 2am and I
heard a noise and could see the silhouette
of a man standing on the windowsill.
My wife screamed, I jumped out of bed,
completely naked, and grabbed the
handle of the window and pushed him
off the windowsill. It was animal instinct
that took over. We called up the front
desk to tell them what had happened and
they accused us of having a marital
dispute and breaking the window. They
were nothing but rude, even though a
neighbour corroborated our story. We
left and went to another hotel.
A MAN TRIED TO
BREAK IN THROUGH
MY HOTEL WINDOW
ONCE. I JUMPED OUT
OF BED AND PUSHED
HIM OFF THE SILL
Tell us about a great little place
you know
Theres a wonderful hotel where my wife,
Fee, and I stayed in Fowey called The
Old Quay House. Felicity is a literary
agent so we go down for the Du Maurier
Festival. Fowey is absolutely gorgeous,
with great food and walking trails. Weve
actually been a couple of times. When we
went with the kids we stayed at the
Fowey Hall Hotel, which is very familyfriendly. Nothing fancy, its a big old
building, with lovely people.
Whats the smartest hotel youve

ever stayed in?
Villa dEste on Lake Como. Its right on
the water and is beautifully done. We
had a room the size of a basketball court.
It was ridiculous.
Sightseeing or sun lounger,
barefoot or bling?
I cant do one or the other, it has to be
both. I like a beach near a city, then I
have the option of doing either, otherwise
I start to go a little mad.
I lost my heart in...
Lake Como, Italy, at a house where
my now sister-in-law, Emily Blunt, was
getting married.
I would never, ever go back to
That place, wherever it was, with the
fucking oil renery.
Confess to one thing youve taken
from a hotel room
An ashtray. And you know those little
towel mats they put by your bed, with the
name of the hotel on them? Those.
Which foreign phrase do you use
most often?
Where is the bathroom?
Whats your guilty pleasure?
Probably a late-night bar, although my
wife also accuses me of wanting to go to
every museum possible.
What would you most like to find in
your minibar?
Freshly shucked oysters, really good vodka
and all the xings for a perfect Martini.
Most regrettable holiday souvenir?
I bought this pair of shoes in Tuscany
that I thought were so beautiful and when
I got them home and looked at them
they were just horrible! Terrible! I never
wore them once.
Nominate your eighth wonder of
the world
George Clooneys house on Lake Como.
How do you relax?
I like to sketch and paint, so I always
take stuff to do that on vacation. That
and cooking.
Stanley Tucci was talking to Francesca
Babb. His latest lm,The Hunger Games:
Mockingjay, Part I, is released on
20 November
Clockwise from
main image:
The Outback
at Crystalbrook
Lodge; Chef
catching fresh
barramundi: Pool
at Crystalbrook
Lodge; Helicopter
arrival at the lodge
Queensland, Australia
NATURES
BOUNTY
Red Outback, spectacular reefs and ancient rainforest: indulge in all three
ed Outback, spectacular
reefs and ancient
rainforest: indulge
in these three iconic
Australian experiences, all
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Think Australia, and what do you
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with Australias iconic airline, Qantas,
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So it is that within a day of leaving
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by this iconic Australian destination.
Alternatively, the drive from Cairns to
Port Douglas proffers take-your-breathaway panoramics of the oceanic kind.
From Port Douglas, you can swim
with dwarf minke whales, snorkel with
turtles or dive coral gardens that an
incredible 1,500 fish species call home.
Charter a boat and meander between
''
For an unforgettable experience make sure you head north

to Cooktown, where Willie Gordon will teach you about the
fascinating traditional stories behind the ancient indigenous
rock art of his Nugal-warra clan.
Katie, Travel Designer, austravel.com
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION
cays, choosing your favourite spot for a

picnic then be lulled to sleep above the
reef with live-aboard cruises. Helicopter
flights enable you to take in the sheer size
of the reef, then land on one of hundreds
of islands scattered across its turquoise
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And for a truly heavenly hideaway, head
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kilometres of coastline, its own National
Park and a World Heritage-listed Marine
Park means days drift by fishing for
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to a pristine bay.
Glorious red, glorious blue or
perhaps the gloriously lush greenery
of Queenslands Daintree Rainforest.
The excellent Qantas network ensures
easy connections to Cairns, indeed,
throughout all of Australia, and just a few
hours from Cairns is Cape Tribulation
where two of these iconic three colours
collide. Here, the Great Barrier Reef
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eco-system meets another incredible ecosystem. Enter the worlds most ancient
surviving rainforest, lush with giant bull
kauri pines and king ferns; colourful
butterflies flitting among colourful
flowers; waterfalls tumbling to hidden
pools (perfect for cooling swims). On the
Kuranda Scenic Railway you can weave
through the foliage with champagne in
one hand and delicious local favourites
such as ANZAC cookies and mango
ice cream in the other. Skyrails treetop
Diamond View Gondolas, complete with
glass bottoms, are guaranteed to take
your breath away, and not just because
Clockwise from
this image: Vlasoff
Cay; Diving on
the Great Barrier
Reef; Silky Oaks
Lodge; Qantas
International
Business Class,
Qantas A380
of the views. No head for heights?

Juan Walker, an indigenous guide at
Walkabout Cultural Adventures, leads
walks on the wilder side, foraging for
rainforest fare. Mossmans Janbal Gallery
introduces Aboriginal Art; the Mossman
Gorge Centre aboriginal traditions
and dreamtime stories. And talking of
dreamtime, what better at the end of
exploratory days than snuggling up in
the ultimate jungle retreat. Silky Oaks
Lodges elevated rooms, restaurants
and spa make the most of its riverside
surroundings both visually and
gustatorily, with local produce including
reef fish, barramundi and crocodile,
''
The colour and diversity of the Great Barrier Reefs

underwater world is breathtaking. For a truly memorable
experience, take a helicopter ride back to the mainland.
Your pilot will ensure you have a birds eye view that is simply
stunning and an experience youll be talking about for years
to come youll get some great photos from up there too.
Sharron, Travel Designer, austravel.com
enjoyed to the dramatic backdrop of
some of the worlds oldest rainforest.
From the Outback, to the reef to the
rainforest, Qantas can fly you to more
T R AV E L W I T H T H E
EXPERTS
Ensure you enjoy the royal treatment all the way to and around
Queensland: journey with two of Australia's most iconic names in travel.
The leading authority on Australia, Austravel's Travel Designers have explored
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Cellar', you will be on holiday in full Australia spirit from the moment you take
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places in Queensland than any other

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READER
OFFER
Spend nine days exploring the
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with Qantas. Based on travel by
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discover-queensland
IN BRITAIN
Clockwise: view over the River Teme, with Mr

Underhills restaurant on the left, The Green Caf on
right; Period House Shop; The Marches Pottery;
55 Mill Street antiques; Harp Lane Deli; thread at 55
Mill Street. Opposite, the Material design gallery
OUR SERIES OF INSIDER

UK GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...
LUDLOW
The food-loving Shropshire market town is as compact as a pork pie and as rare-breed as longhorn
beef, but has other passions apart from its belly, says Rick Jordan. Photographs by Craig Fordham
IN BRITAIN
very Easter it would be Ludlow and

a drive south-west to Shropshire
to stay with great-aunt Maranda,
her house a Thirties time-capsule
scented by Badedas and dog hair, with a
cellar-cool pantry and a radio that promised
the Home Service. Ludlow was different
from northern suburbia. There were
ranks of black-and-white timber houses,
medieval Mondrians, and just along from
Woolies was a castle, right there in town,
with secret rooms and bottomless wells;
moments away were elds and coppices
border country inhabited (so I imagined)
by Boggis, Bunce and Bean, the crafty
farmers from Fantastic Mr Fox. We spotted
jewel-bright kingshers on the River Teme
and clambered up to Whitcliffe Common
for the best views, or further still to the
bleak, devilish Stiperstones and the Long
Mynd, where shadow clouds would slip
over the heather in the sunlight. For meals,
string-tied parcels were procured, beasts
with claws and feathers and scales wrapped
up inside. My aunt being treasurer for the
Shakespeare festival, some summers wed
return and sit on the castle lawn to watch
The Tempest or Richard III rage and bluster
against the 11th-century stones where Mary
Tudor had once stayed.
Later, returning of my own will, I was
incredulous to nd that sleepy Ludlow a
town of just 10,000 people, over three hours
by rail from London had become MichelinWHERE SKIMMING STONES
starred. I was lucky enough to eat at the
TO EAT & It was armbands and bags of
Merchant House, every exquisite course
DRINK Salt n Shake in the 1970s
cooked singlehandedly by Shaun Hill. He
by Dinham Bridge when the
had reasoned that a restaurant might do
baths stood here, but somehow a village
well in a place that supported six butchers,
green and The Green Caf appeared in
two greengrocers and three cheese shops.
their place. He wont say it himself but Clive
The secret is that its an authentic market
Davies is one of the best cooks around.
town, all centre and no outskirts, he
Rapid-re lunch plates arrive spread with
told me recently, from The Walnut Tree in
bright, punchy avours salt-beef brisket
Abergavenny. And normal people are able
and piccalilli, seared mackerel and dhal
to afford the produce its not a lm-set
most for less than a tenner. Sit outside
village populated by retired millionaires.
Some stars have gone, and so has De Greys, and listen for the plop of grayling; beware
low-ying ducks. The deservedly busy
where pinny-clad waitresses served tea
Charlton Arms, poised on Ludford Bridge
and buns for almost a century, but its
strangely resilient micro-climate continues like a cormorant, was languishing until
to attract independent spirits and the town Cedric Bosi took it over earlier this year
(hes no stranger to Ludlow; brother Claude
feels more successful than ever, broader
of taste. Now, as it was then, Ludlow is a
opened Hibiscus here in 2000). He put
place with no sell-by dates.
snail lasagne on the menu at Wimbledons
Fox & Grapes but nothing here will startle:

dishes are no-nonsense (ham hash, an
unusually macho Caesar salad, Eton mess)
but precision made. In late spring, the
local swift appreciation group heads up to
the terrace for the view. www.thegreencafe.
co.uk; www.thecharltonarms.co.uk
RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS

Ludlows sole Michelin-star survivor,
Mr Underhills exists in a sunlit world of
its own. Its dinner only, nine courses,
no choice, and all the better for that. Start
with a glass of Louis Roederer in the riverside garden, a mini Giverny of lilies,
alliums and ash-bulbing roses. Chris
Bradleys food is equally vivid, showcasing
local ingredients fall-apart Marches beef,
asparagus, pears and surrounding them
with twists and furls of avour (cep-scented
Ceramics at The Marches Pottery; left, outdoors

at Mr Underhills. Opposite, clockwise from top
left: Ludlows independent brewery, in a railway
shed; sign at The Bindery Shop; pottery
brushes; vintage type boxes at The Bindery
an affable, Lawrentian type whose mother,

Lesley, co-founded the Food Festival
(1214 September) has been run off his
feet. Get here early before the pastels de
nata or homemade jambon persill vanish.
The mighty cheese wall holds what Henry
describes as an edgy range; hes also
serious about coffee (small-estate, apricotty,
the milk specially sourced from Hereford).
Barista Joe Miller can chat beans all day;
on weekend evenings the talk turns to
wine and Negronis. www.harplane.com
FIDGETING
pasta, wasabi, sesame crisp, mustard ice

cream). Duck-liver custard? Really? But
its superb, even more so paired with a
glass of honeyish Madiran white. Judy
Bradley, wise as an owl, pounces on unusual
wine varieties. Drift off to the rush of the
weir in one of four suites, all snug and soft
and with spa bathrooms you could spend
the morning in. Beneath the ease and calm
lie 33 years of tenacity and evolution. They
plan to retire in a couple of years, so go
now. www.mr-underhills.co.uk. Dinner from
67.50 per person; doubles from 220
Uncle Monty-ish Martyn Emsen, who

smokes (in a woodchip way) anything he
can get his hands on, its a boisterous,
squeeze-gut den with dangling panettone
and wine for just over two quid a glass.
Small and proud as a beach hut, The Fish
House is run by Lou Hackney, who has
shmongery in her blood (her nan started
the family business in the 1940s). Order
the seafood platter then squeeze in at one
of the barrel tables while canine tails
thump chair legs and locals call out for
More Chablis, dear! +44 7890 412873;
www.theshhouseludlow.co.uk
FISH & SMOKE

The rst time I sat in the Ludlow Cicchetti
Bar at 10 Broad Street, one regular an
opera singer it turned out burst into a
ripe rendition of Old Man River just as I
was spearing a piece of tripe. Run by the
AMAZING WALL OF CHEESE

It was once the much-loved Deli on the
Square, so locals were curious to see how
Harp Lane Deli would turn out. Nice to
hear, then, that owner Henry Mackley
For a meal to be pocketed and eaten on the

hoof, you need a dget pie (pork, apple, a
shake of mace, crisp pastry). The ones at
DW Wall on the High Street, topped by a
caramelised twist of apple, could hold their
head up in a Parisian patisserie. Along with
Andrew Francis butchers on Market Street,
its the best place for banter and racing tips
but only Walls sells the Ludlow banger,
the taste of which has entered the towns
collective memory. www.wallsbutchers.co.uk
LUDLOW GOLD
Ludlow has proper pubs with bouquets
of hops that caress your head at the bar:
see the Rose & Crown, Church Inn and
Unicorn. For an afternoon session, though,
you need a Victorian train shed and a tour
of the Ludlow Brewery Company. Gary
Walters passion for authentic ale-making is
inspiring and the hit from the fermenting
tank, glooping away like a 1970s Dr Who
alien, will knock you off your toes.
www.theludlowbrewingcompany.co.uk
IN BRITAIN
get closer, performs a strange vanishing
act behind the narrow streets. For 3 you
can climb to the top for a gargoyles view
over the hills. Back down, check out the
misericords, whose 15th-century carver
had a rather low opinion of women see
the hellish punishment meted out to the
dishonest ale wife.
TOP OF THE POPS
Left, view of the River Teme from the Whitcliffe

footpath. Above, collectibles at 55 Mill Street
is The Marches Pottery, where Andrew

Crouchs subtle designs reect the light
beautifully the slender, celadon-green
vases resemble segments of bamboo.
INKY FINGERS
WHERE Residents wondered if a
TO SHOP new undertakers had
arrived when sombrefronted Black Bough opened. But inside
is a life-afrming collection of paintsplashed pottery, washbags, etchings and
the occasional eccentric piece by Jess
Jackson, a local welder who re-imagines
industrial otsam and jetsam. Co-owner
Alex Barter used to work for Sothebys
and has quite a following for his lovingly
reconditioned vintage watches. Nearby is
The Bindery Shop, for letterpress designs
and handbound books; round the corner
on Corve Street is Material, where Lucy
Paynes nothing local mantra introduced
the town to streetwise graphics such as
John Dilnots creepy-crawlie prints. www.
blackbough.co.uk; trevorlloyd.co.uk/the
binderyshop; http://materialmaterial.com
GO ON, HAVE A RUMMAGE

A three-storey cabinet of curiosities,
55 Mill Street is carefully marshalled by
its Jean Brodyish curator Nina HelyHutchinson, who has gallery experience in
LA and London and wrinkles her nose at
shabby chic she prefers slinky Seventies
stuff by Ossie Clarke and Jazz Age
hemlines. Hats hang on antlers almost
totemistically; owlish teacups line up on
shelves. You could leave with a vintage
jelly mould or a walnut-brown pair of
Barkers in size 9. Further down, at no 45,
Stella Mitchell fell in love with Peter

Blakes work at the 1969 Pop Art show, and
her Land of Lost Content is an installation
homage to popular culture, spreading
across three oors in an old market hall in
Church Stretton, north of Ludlow. Its
brilliantly bonkers a 3D Pinterest board
ranging from Biba and soap powder to
Action Man and newly acquired London
Olympics costumes. Who else collects
Anderson shelters? www.lolc.org.uk
UNDER THE BEAMS

WHERE For trad B&B, those who
TO STAY ate at the Merchant House
can now sleep there amid

book-strewn, 15th-century nooks; woodFOR JEAN DE FLORETTES
panelled Whiteld House has a gloriously
When I plant out my own vineyard, this
sprawling 1920s garden. To rent, look at the
is where Ill buy a box of iron vine eyes.
handsome Ivy House and oak-hewn Silver
Best photographed in sepia, the Period
Pear apartments. But a pretty, strippedHouse Shop is like the most amazing shed down alternative is 8 & 9 Upper Linney, a
in the world: a calming place to potter
brace of one-bedroom, three-storey cottages
and run your ngers over door bolts and
tucked under the petticoats of the town
bakelite switches as perky as sows teats.
walls. Both have been cleverly remodelled
Theres Thirties-style Le Laboureur trews, with decent kitchens and squeaky-clean
probably even fork handles if you ask. Just bathrooms: choose 8 for its fortied
dont get the owner, Simon Holloway,
courtyard, 9 for its wet room with Hello
started on the subject of corrugated iron.
sheep! views over the elds. www.8upper
www.periodhouseshops.com
linney.com; from 195 for three nights
TANNED AND LOVELY
EVERYTHING BUT THE OINK
After years in London crafting leather for

Nicole Farhi and Paul Smith, among others,
Matt Fothergill returned to Shropshire and
set up shop in a former newspaper ofce,
lling it top to bottom with covetable,
conker-bright totes, satchels, folios and
purses. You get the sense every snippet is
used. Over on Pepper Lane is Martin
Pryce, who once stitched up Robert Plants
jeans when they ripped (it happened a lot)
but now makes jewel-coloured handbags,
iPad cases, even ying jackets for ageing
rockers. www.mattfothergill.com; www.
martinpryceleather.co.uk
If you have children in tow then The Clive,

on the Earl of Plymouths estate, has big,
beamed rooms with enough space to
scatter clothes without it mattering. Cross
the road and you can take a splendid
bridlepath walk the sort a medieval
mendicant might have made past rustling
hedgerows to the castle. The Clive used
to be a farm and theres a rosy-cheeked
cheeriness to the informal but ambitious
restaurant, where almost everything is
sourced from the Ludlow Food Centre
a few yards away. In an alternative
universe, every supermarket looks like this:
lassoing up all the tastiest local things, from
walled-garden apples and forest venison
to craft gins. Behind big windows, folk in
white hats stir cheese, ll sausages and make
jam, aprons bloody with raspberry juice.
www.theclive.co.uk. Doubles from 100
WHAT
TO SEE
& DO
BEST WAY TO
SPEND 3
The tower of St Laurences

rises above Ludlow like a
perpendicular stone spaceship but, as you
Clockwise from top:

CVK Park
Bosphorus Istanbul,
Turkey;
Il Salviatino,
Florence, Italy;
On the terrace
at ME London
a question of
preference
For a collection of totally independent hotels under one huge global

umbrella, Preferred Hotel Group is a one-stop luxury travel shop
referred Hotel Groups exclusive collection not
only covers 85 countries, it ranges from global
icons and ve-star destination resorts to designled urban hangouts, boutique hotels and luxury
residences. Whats more they are all 100 percent
independent, chosen for location, luxury and service.
We love the no-expense-spared portfolios of Preferred
Boutique and Preferred Hotels & Resorts but also the
refreshingly affordable Summit Hotels, Sterling
Design, and Preferred Residences. The iPrefer loyalty
programme also gets 10 out of 10 for its exible point
saving that allows free stays at over 500 global
properties plus little extras such as upgrades and a host
of VIP benets. Weve skimmed the preferred surface
with this months choice of four European beauties.
tailored to the individual

The historic villa Il Salviatino is hidden away high in
the hills of Florence. Beautifully restored, bedrooms
feature stunning antiques and museum-worthy

paintings. Some have frescoed ceilings, others intricate
replaces; one suite even comes with its own roof
terrace. Theres a restored library, wonderful spa with
bespoke treatments, a terraced pool, two restaurants
serving awless Italian food and a super-smart bar.
The hotel can also organise everything from private
painting classes to cookery lessons and wine tasting.
For individuality, the Parisian La Tremoille, just
minutes from the Champs-lyses and Eiffel Tower,
gets our vote. Ninety three bedrooms have been carved
out of this 19th-century Haussmann townhouse (once
the private mansion of the Dupr family). Chic yet
cosy, grand yet friendly, the rooms are sleep-inducingly
designed with huge beds, thick curtains, and soothing
colours. Original touches include black and white
photos of jazz legends in the lobby (Louis Armstrong
was a frequent visitor) while the restaurant Le Louis2
is a destination in itself.
The ME London opened in 2013 and went straight

onto the years hot list. The sixith property from the
hip Spanish brand Mlia, its fresh urban vibe suits the
Aldwych location. Wed expect nothing less than
cutting-edge design from architects Foster + Partners
for their rst foray in to hotels, and they dont
disappoint. We love the tech-focussed white leather-clad
rooms and duo of restaurants, the cheerful Cucina
Aselina and the sleek STK London. But the real wow
factor is at Radio, its rooftop bar with views stretching
from Tower Bridge to Battersea Power Station.
Big is beautiful at the renovated palace now home to
CVK Park Bosphorus Istanbul. Close to Taksim
Square, this totally revamped building houses a
staggering 378 rooms and 60 suites that cleverly
combine a Turkish vibe with at-out luxury. Among
an impressive restaurant count is Miramare, with tasty
Mediterranean dishes accompanied by even better
views, and a Lebanese and Turkish feast at Mezze
Dnyasi. Our highlight was the state-of-the-art
CVK Sara Spa with its traditional Turkish bath,
Vitamin Bar, and stress-busting treatments.
For further information visit
preferredhotelgroup.com/condenast
READER
EVENT
flavour
of the month
Join Crystal Cruises at Nobu Park Lane for an exclusive

evening sampling the exquisite cuisine of legendary
Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa
T RAVELLER READ ER EVEN T

Clockwise from opposite
top left: selection of
Nobu Sushi in Silk Road;
Crystal Symphony
in the Whitsunday
Islands; Nobu
Matsuhisa; Crystal
Serenity moored
outside Santorini
Crystal Cruises continues

to excel from stern to bow. Consistently voted
the number one large cruise line, we went behind the
scenes to discover the secret of its success. With just two recently
revamped and oh-so-chic ships (Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony), the
attention to detail is microscopic and the imaginative itineraries are nothing short of
inspirational. The end of 2014 sees a host of exciting destinations on the Crystal calendar.
Ever-changing horizons include New Zealand and Australia, Southeast Asia, New
England & Canada and the Caribbean while 2015 kicks off with China and Easter Island
followed by the British Isles, a Mediterranean medley, the Indian Ocean and even a 108-day world
cruise. Although the ships are large, the adventures remain boutique, and it is this individual approach that
puts Crystal a nautical mile ahead of its competitors. Wherever you sail, Crystal Cruises ensures that onshore
is as good as onboard, customising more than 2,000 different excursions. They range from African safaris and
Antarctic expeditions to behind-the-scenes tours of the Vatican, diving the Caribbean or scaling the cliffs of
Nova Scotia: you dream, they deliver. They also run themed cruises covering everything from food and wine, golf,
lm and theatre to jazz, art and mind, body and soul. Top marks also go to Crystals You Care, We Care voluntary
programme enabling guests to give back to communities the world over.
fo
in
er
th
fur
For
Even with this characterful calendar, it is without doubt the onboard facilities that give Crystal Cruises the real edge.
Food is a huge fan-base factor with the Crystal Dining Room setting the stage for an eclectic menu of regionally
inspired dishes: think steaming plates of paella while cruising the coast of Spain or fragrant bowls of Phad Thai en
route through Southeast Asia. In addition there are menus designed by legendary Piero Selvaggio who brings the
avours of his acclaimed restaurants to onboard Prego. Be sure to try Carpaccio di Manzo or the slow-roasted
Pumpkin Ravioli both are mouthwateringly divine. Then there is the brilliance of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa.
Known globally as Nobu he not only has a sailing Sushi Bar but brings his inventive Japanese cuisine to Silk
Road, the only sea-faring restaurant in his global empire. We also love the ships livelier sides: the cocktail
bars, saloons with tinkling pianos, DJs mixing up the beats and theatres putting on all-singing all-dancing
live shows. But what we love the most is the Crystal all-inclusive policy: an open bar service in all
lounges, ne wines, premium spirits, champagne and speciality dining, not to mention tness
classes, yoga, pilates and spinning are all included. Even gratuities for housekeeping, butler
service and dining staff are covered keeping hands refreshingly out of pockets. To top
it all the rooms are sanctuaries with wonderful balconies, Frette linen and fresh
owers; there are fantastic facilities for families and the ships feature the
only oating spas designed according to feng shui principles.
rm
at
Now thats what we call plain sailing.
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C N T R AV E L L E R R E A D E R E V E N T
Crystal Cruises and Cond Nast Traveller
invite you to the private dining room at
Nobu Park Lane on Thursday 23 October 2014
from 6.30 to 10pm
Tickets cost 50 per person.
To book your place call 020 7152 3449
(Monday to Friday between 9.30am and 5.30pm) or
email [email protected]
This exclusive one-off evening is

limited to just 50 readers and will
include an original set menu created
by Nobu Matsuhisa, the chance to
meet him in person and the
opportunity to talk to Crystal
Cruises travel experts.
Tickets will be issued on a rst-come,
rst-served basis
SET DINNER MENU

Course One
Course Four
Seafood Ceviche
Assorted Seafood
Tossed with Nobu
Ceviche Dressing
Corn-Fed Chicken
with Teriyaki Balsamic
Grilled Chicken Breast
with Teriyaki Balsamic
Sauce and Sauted
Assorted Vegetables
Course Two
Nobu-Style
Sashimi Salad
Seared Ahi Tuna
and Field Greens
Tossed with
Matsuhisa Dressing
READER
EVENT
Course Three
Nobu-Style
Black Cod with Miso
Dessert
Nobu-Style Saikyo Miso
Suntory Whiskey
Marinated and Broiled
Cappuccino with
Black Cod with Mountain
Buttermilk Ice Cream
Peach and Young
Topped with Whiskey Foam
Ginger
Give us your body for a week

and well give you back your mind
We designed the BodyHoliday to be an active beach holiday experience based

around four key pillars relaxation, rejuvenation, exercise and diet. Together we
believe they play a key role in achieving a sense of balance in life and provide
the ingredients for the perfect holiday.
The award winning health & wellbeing holiday in St Lucia, West Indies
0203 096 1608 www.thebodyholiday.com
THE EXPERTS
This months Family Health Food Books Advice

EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON
WHAT YOU WANT THE RIDE OF YOUR LIFE

WHO YOU NEED SECRET COMPASS
To nd those special far-ung places still as yet unpeered at by tourists involves rethinking your mode of travel. The last off-grid
locations really are those only reached on foot or, if its two-wheeling that makes you tick, then by bicycle. Expedition organisers
Secret Compass, set up by two former officers in the Parachute Regiment, Tom Bodkin and Levison Wood, is a company that seeks out
those wilder corners of the planet often in post-conict areas (their military training means safety and security are as good as you can
get) for properly rough-and-ready exploration. Coming up this autumn is a heart-racing, off-road escapade in Ethiopia, a 14-day
mountain-bike recce criss-crossing the Simien Mountain Range (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) on bone-juddering tracks worn into
the mountainside by centuries of animals and villagers making their way from A to B. By day the group will climb towards the summit of
Ras Deshen, at 4,543 metres the countrys highest peak, and camp out under canvas at night, tucking into suppers of injera atbreads
and highly spiced wat stews, listening for the call of the extremely rare Gelada baboon. Do not expect a cushy guided tour. Being
capable of pedalling at least 40km a day across rugged terrain is the minimum physical requirement. But if you are t as a ddle, there
can be few journeys more exhilarating than these. +44 20 3239 8038; secretcompass.com. ISSY VON SIMSON
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY
THE BEST
OF GREECE
These sunny islands are the perfect

half-term hideout. Easy to get to, with
fabulous beaches, clean waters,
delicious food and a cheek-pinching
matriarchal love of little people
SANTA MARINA
MYKONOS
Forget about nightclubs and the hedonistic

party vibe. Mykonos has, just like Ibiza,
a calmer family-friendly side. Although
this hotel isnt suitable for those with
toddlers there are far too many low
walls and unnerving drops for children
just that little bit older its bliss: close
to the airport, with super-friendly staff,
and gorgeous views. Whether youre
staring out to Ornos Bay with its bobbing
boats and backdrop of sugar-cube
houses, or out the other way over the
turquoise sea, with the hazy outline
of Paros and Naxos in the distance
youll be serenely happy. Even more so,
perhaps, on discovering the kids club,
set right next to the main pool and free
for those aged between two and 12.
There are stacks of games and cheery
English-speaking staff, so they probably
wont even notice youre gone. Add to
this a tennis court with resident coach,
a brilliant playground and a pretty
beach. The rooms, suites and villas have
had a revamp this year. Its goodbye
terracotta tiles and dated furnishings,
hello minimalist cool. If you want to
avoid steep steps, of which there are
many, plump for connecting rooms
rather than the villas at the top of the
hill. The groovy little spa has a host of
Ila treatments. And as night falls, the
BayView restaurant does all it can to
make parents feel cool again, with
front-row seats looking over the Aegean
Sea and a resident DJ. You may not
be dancing till dawn, but youve still
made it to Mykonos.
BOOK IT Carrier (+161 492 1357;
www.carrier.co.uk) offers seven nights
from 3,850, based on two adults and two
children sharing a suite, including
breakfast, ights and transfers
SKIATHOS PRINCESS
SKIATHOS
THE PELIGONI CLUB ZAKYNTHOS

Twitchy teens want fun-lled, adrenalinfuelled days and freedom at night;
parents want a stress-free family
holiday before they all properly
grow up and ee. This is the happy
compromise. A rustic, open-air club
(driftwood signposting, white-painted
furniture) surrounded by olive trees
with a two-room spa, swimming pool
and bamboo-shaded restaurant
where everyone gathers for ruthless
games of backgammon. The idea is
simple: Peligoni sorts out your villa
or hotel (such as the lovely Nobelos,
run by Fotini dont miss her
incredible home-made ice cream) and
then you spend your days at The Club,
sunbathing on the series of platforms
clinging to the rocks that lead down to
the sea, each decked out with huge
loungers, umbrellas and large cushions.
While theres no sandy beach, the
crystal clear sea is what its all about
pick up the bill for the watersports
package, which means unlimited
tuition for sailing and windsurng
(motorised antics are extra). Most
land-based activities are geared
towards over-eights, who can make
pizzas in the outdoor oven, play in
tennis tournaments or and this is a
real highlight take a three-hour,
parent-free boat trip to Alykes village
to spend pocket-money on a costume
for the weekly fancy-dress party night.
Staff are young, tanned university

students; many spent their own
holidays here. The food is aimed at big
numbers but with no buffet in sight.
Feast on Greek salads, red mullet with
Mediterranean vegetables and serious
puddings (deconstructed cheesecake
with roast peaches) Its all very laid-back:
twice a week there is a hog roast and a
BBQ where the parents all sit together
and children are split off into different
age groups to be with their friends.
Go snorkelling in the blue caves near
Shipwreck Beach, and be sure to head
into Agios Nikolaos village on the
next-door bay with its loved-by-locals
taverna and Greek music lling the air.
BOOK IT Peligoni (+44 20 8740 3001;
www.peligoni.com) offers seven nights
at Nobelos from 2,043, based on two
adults and two children sharing,
including membership to The Club,
all watersports and sailing
This is a family affair, and owner

Vicky Santikos recently brought
in daughter Katerina and son
Konstantinos to help run the show.
Along with creating a series of
Californian-style, calorie-controlled
meal plans, Katerina has injected
the place with boho-glamour. But
while rooms are spacious and
comfortable, air conditioning units
are prone to drips and TV channels
are fuzzy (forget CBeebies). On
the plus side, many of them have
spectacular views across the hotels
grassy lawns that lead directly to
the beach. And what a beach. Agia
Paraskevi is one of the best on the
island. Its a spotless crescent of
golden sand sprinkled with rustic
straw shades, and has exceptionally
safe swimming. Wade 15 metres
out and the tide line will only be
nudging your hips, and theres
nothing but gently rippling sand
underfoot. The island of Skiathos
is small and intensely green. A
network of hiking trails crisscross
the shoreline and excursions to
an inland dog shelter can be
arranged, where children can take
puppies for walks. Older kids
can enjoy the inatables and
motorised watersports for hire
at the public end of the beach.
And little adventurers aged
seven-plus can try their hand at
the new craze, YogAqua.
BOOK IT Sovereign Luxury
Travel (+44 843 770 4526; www.
sovereign.com) offers seven
nights from 2,525, based on two
adults and two children sharing a
family room, including breakfast,
ights and transfers
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY
SANI RESORT
HALKIDIKI
Here in a vast eco reserve is a gloriously

chic, purpose-built Greek village.
Theres the obligatory quayside with a
otilla of boats, smart restaurants and
simple tavernas (most of which cater
for children), plus a clutch of hotels
(all part of the Sani Resort) to choose
from. If privacy and space are
paramount, go for Asterias Suites. A
string of spacious, light-ooded suites
dotted along a private stretch of beach,
they are formal but comfortably
elegant, with oaty sheer curtains and
cool stone underfoot (book a twobedroom beachfront family suite for
direct access to the sand). Its the little
things that count: the swim nappies
and sterilising equipment set up on
arrival; the world-class chefs on tap;
the attentive, but never intrusive,
service. Theres an outstanding crche
and an award-winning childrens club,
all run by the Worldwide Kids
Company. Then theres the genius of
Babe Watch. Dig holes and dip toes
together, then wave to a nanny and
hand over the bucket and spade. Its
instant babysitting, so you can take a
lazy lap of the cerulean waters, or just
lie back and close your eyes for a
minute. Away from the water, there are
bikes to rent and forest trails to follow.
Later, catch a lm together at the
open-air cinema, or let them splash
around in the pool while you watch the
boats return to their moorings at
sunset with a mojito at the Water Bar.
BOOK IT Classic Collection Holidays
(+44 800 294 9318; www.classiccollection.co.uk) offers seven nights
from 3,429, based on two adults and
two children sharing a room, including
breakfast, ights and transfers
AT THE BEACH, THE SEA IS

SHALLOW AND SHELVES SOME
15 METRES OUT, MAKING FOR
CHILD-FRIENDLY RIPPLING WAVES
DAIOS COVE CRETE
A balm for overworked, whacked-out

parents, with stone-built villas dotted
around an olive-tree-covered cove. It
may be big there are 300 rooms and
39 villas but service is as smooth
and polished as the marble oors, with
fragrant hand towels, iced water and
electric buggies to glide you noiselessly
to your door. Villas are split over two
storeys, with sitting rooms leading out
to the innity pool and terrace, and
the master suite and balcony below.
Children can sleep on a sofa bed in the
top half, with their own bathroom
an arrangement that works surprisingly
well. What the rooms may lack in
character they make up for in quality
and extravagant extras: lengthy pillow
menus, iPod docking stations, a choice
of mango, vanilla or violet fragrances
to be fed into the air-conditioning, and
Chteau Margaux (at 1,800) on the
room-service menu. Whenever you
return, a little treat is waiting: pastelcoloured macaroons, giant cupcakes
or feta mufns. Bars, restaurants and
the swimming pool area are all
on different levels up the rocky sides of

the bay, accessed by a funicular rail car.
And though it feels rather resorty, the
hotels eco credentials are impeccable,
with water recycling and heat-recovery
systems all working behind the scenes.
Evenings are low-key and familyfriendly with help-yourself buffets that
major on Greek classics, from souvlaki
and dolmades to lo-wrapped prunes.
Theres also, of course, a kids club,
with mini discos, the occasional games
night and babysitting. At the beach,
the sea is shallow and shelves some
15 metres out, making for childfriendly rippling waves. Children can
while away the time with their
complimentary buckets and spades.
BOOK IT Sovereign Luxury Travel
(+44 843 770 4526; www.sovereign.
com) offers seven nights from 2,025,
based on a family of three sharing a
Deluxe Sea View Room, half board,
including ights and transfers
CONTRIBUTORS: LEO BEAR,
LYDIA GARD, ANNE CUTHBERTSON,
ALEX GORTON
out
of africa
Inspirational landscapes and a richness of culture go hand-in-hand with the

wondrous wildlife on a safari in Kenya with Turquoise Holidays and Saruni
afaris are, of course, much to do with the

wildlife but in Kenya they are also to do with
the vast, humbling landscapes, the isolated
camps lost amid the Great Rift Valley and the
strong cultural lives of the people who live there.
And with Saruni whose three camps have been
strategically chosen for their dramatic seclusion
visitors are immersed night and day in these
elements of wilderness, culture and tradition.
Sarunis unique camps are situated in Kenyas
conservancies, the protected wilderness areas that are
the future of Kenyan safaris. They are responsibly
managed, allow limited numbers of visitors and are
run in conjunction with the indigenous people. Safaris

with Saruni are thus a journey through an ancient way
of life, with expert Maasai and Samburu guides taking
you through the experience rst-hand. And because
you are surrounded by one of the worlds most
dramatic geographical features, the Rift Valley,
this is a safari unlike any other in Africa.
Whichever Saruni property you choose, youre assured
of a personalised experience with an added wowfactor. Saruni Mara is the smallest lodge in the Maasai
Mara, offering a uniquely intimate game-viewing
experience in a special part of the Maras eco-system.
Saruni Wild is a romantic tented camp in the secluded
Mara North conservancy which features camp re
nights, guided bush walks, uninterrupted views and
sensational starry nights. Saruni Samburu further
north is celebrated for its eco-chic design, with six
open-sided villas and two innity pools overlooking
Mount Kenya. At all Saruni properties, game
drives are limited to just six people per vehicle.
And there is another side of Kenya, too, with the
opening in December of Saruni Ocean. Kenyas
Clockwise from top:

Samburu warriors;
Sundowners are
served; 360 degree
views at Saruni
Samburu; Game drives
at Saruni Mara; Suites
with incredible views
at Saruni Samburu
READER OFFER
Turquoise Holidays offers this authentic Kenyan
safari in luxurious Saruni lodges, away from the
crowds, from just 3,795 per person a 7 day/
6 night adventure combining Saruni Samburu
with Saruni Mara, including all ights and
transfers, full board accommodation, house wines
and spirits, all game drives, walking safaris, bush
meals and a 30-minute complimentary massage
per couple at each lodge an amazing saving of
935 per couple. To combine safari with beach,
Saruni Ocean costs from just 275 per person
per night on a full board basis (ights to the
coast are an additional cost).
spectacular coastline boasts mile after mile of beautiful

white-sand beaches bordered by the turquoise waters
of the Indian Ocean. Saruni Ocean has seven villas
it is located on Kenyas south coast at Msambweni
(30 mins south of Diani Beach) and will be the
rst Thalassotherapy spa on the Kenyan coast.
It represents the perfect spot to unwind after
adventures in the bush.
To book your tailor made safari holiday, call
the experts at Turquoise on 01494 678 400 or
email [email protected]
www.turquoiseholidays.co.uk.
THE EXPERTS... HEALTH
THE FOCUS
FEEL-GOOD WINTER SUN AND SPA
As the days begin to turn

chilly, many of us long for
the energy burst of a healthy
holiday, as well as some
life-affirming sunshine and
in a properly lovely hotel rather
than a medi-clinic. Omans
Six Senses Zighy Bay is the
answer, says Daisy Finer
The beach at Six Senses

Zighy Bay in Oman
STELLAR SPAS ARE ALL

ABOUT THE PEOPLE
WORKING THERE, AND
THIS ONE IS PACKED
WITH GIFTED HEALERS
pick from yoga on the rooftop, boot-camp
jungle gym (seriously hardcore), mountain
hikes, biking, kayaking and aqua tness.
Breakfast is the same every day: a
smoothie of avocado and spinach. For
lunch, some light protein with vegetables
or salad; and for dinner, soup, and only
soup. Thankfully, there is some variety:
lemony squash, deep-green watercress,
a broth full of fragrant chopped herbs
and vegetables. Its all delicious without
being complicated; and not having to
think about menus, or make any decisions
at all, really helps the mind to unwind.
Thats before youve even got to the
sorcery of the spas treatment rooms.
Six Senses Zighy Bay was named Most
Effective Reboot in our Spa Guide this
year, and it is packed with gifted healers.
Take Khun Noom, a sparkly Thai lady who
seems to glide when she walks. She does

everything from Thai massage to cupping
(for cellulite), singing-bowl therapy,
reexology and meditation. I tried her
chakra-balancing, which lasted two hours.
She placed crystals on the chakra centres
of my body, hot stones under my neck
(such relief), then played beautiful music.
When she lays her hands on you its as
though you can feel your soul rushing like
a river between your heart and head.
The reiki is just as extraordinary; I oated
for about two days afterwards.
This is a fantastic hotel in its own right,
but it is well above par when it comes to
health and wellness. Stellar spas are not
usually about good looks; they are about
the special people who work in them.
Zighy Bay is a honeypot of such goodness.
The fact that its so easy to get to, with
hot weather exactly when you need it,
only makes it all the more glorious.
Healing Holidays (+44 20 7843 3597; www.
healingholidays.co.uk) offers a seven-night
detox programme from 2,440 per person
based on two sharing, including breakfast,
daily activities, ights and transfers
PHOTOGRAPH: JULIEN CAPMEIL
The ight to dubai is just six hours,

and I slept like a cat in the hotels glossy
car for the two-hour desert drive to
Zighy Bay. The place is an instant hit:
good-looking enough for honeymooners,
with sleek villas and butlers on hand to
buggy you to and from the spa.
Its rare to nd a full-throttle detox
set-up in such smart surroundings,
and they really do take it seriously here.
Embark on the cleansing programme
and day one starts with two consultations.
The rst, unusually, focuses on emotional
well-being how you are, why you are
here, which treatment will suit you and
what results you are after.
For this, life coach Steve Harvey (who
trained with Deepak Chopra) is at the
helm. Hes a brilliantly funny Scot who
majors in Emotional Freedom Technique,
a sort of needle-less acupuncture that
works on tapping the meridian points of
the body. Its renowned for being quick
and effective great if you want to
de-stress or give up smoking. And if you
have more serious issues to tackle grief,
divorce, debt, anger Harvey steers you
towards The Work, a method devised by
US author and spiritual guide Byron Katie,
where you look in minute detail at your
thought processes, writing everything
down, inquiring, and talking yourself out
of negative cycles of thinking. The fact
that mental freedom can be as liberating
as weight loss, if not more so, may come as
a surprise, but Harvey believes that a detox
is as much mental as physical.
The second consultation is all about
physical tness, involving the dreaded
weigh-in, body-fat percentages and thigh
and arm measurements. Personal trainer
Daniel Serpa will construct a plan to
make you sweat usually with an hour of
gym work every morning. Then you can
HEALTH MONEY
2014
NEXT
GEN
RETAIL
OCTOBER 16-17, 2014

BOOK YOUR TICKET NOW
WIRED.CO.UK/14
Our two-day event will bring together some of

the worlds most exciting and inspiring people
The WIRED2014 speaker line-up includes leading
computer scientists, pioneering doctors, musicians,
artists, designers and astronauts. This year also
features our inaugural WIRED Innovation Fellows,
a group of people who have the ability to make a
significant positive impact on the lives of thousands,
if not millions, of people. More than 50 individuals
will take to the WIRED2014 stage, including:
HEADLINE
PARTNER
TICKETING
PARTNER
SESSION
PARTNER
Ionut Alexandru
Budisteanu
Bucharest University
Nelly Ben Hayoun

Head of experiences,
WeTransfer
Sam Bompas
Founder,
Bompas & Parr
Jay Bregman
Founder & CEO,
Hailo
Esther Dyson
Founder, HICCup &
The Way to Wellville
Joel Jackson
Founder & CEO,
Mobius Motors
Budisteanu has built

an AI-controlled car
and a device that
helps blind people see
using their tongues.
Designer, artist and

budding astronaut Ben
Hayoun has worked
with stars from Beck
to Bobby Womack.
Design studio Bompas

& Parr specialises in
flavour-based
experiences, food
research and design.
Jay Bregman has raised

45 million in investment
for Hailo, his app that
pairs passengers with
available taxi drivers.
Intellectual, investor
and trained
cosmonaut, Dyson
now focuses on
community health.
Kenyas Mobius
Motors designs and
builds affordable
vehicles for Africas
mass market.
Emiliano Kargieman
CEO,
Satellogic
Eric Ladizinsky
Cofounder,
D-Wave Systems
Uma Ramakrishnan
Indias Centre for
Biological Sciences
Nina Tandon
CEO & cofounder,
EpiBone
Rachel Wingfield
Cofounder & creative
director, Loop.pH
Anne Wojcicki
CEO & cofounder,
23andMe
Kargieman is
pioneering the private
space sector and aims
to launch a fleet of
satellites into orbit.
At D-Wave, Ladizinsky
builds the worlds
fastest supercomputers and
quantum processors.
Ramakrishnan uses
evolutionary science
to explain biodiversity,
mainly in the Indian
subcontinent.
EpiBone grows human

bones for skeletal
repair. Tandon is the
author of Super Cells:
Building with Biology.
Creative studio Loop.

pH has made lighting
inspired by molecular
biology and props
for Paul McCartney.
23andMe provides
rapid genetic testing
for people curious
about their DNA
make-up and ancestry.
THE EXPERTS... BOOKS
SHELF IMPROVEMENT By Giles Foden
THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH

Esther Freud on Voyage in the Dark by Jean Rhys
I was in my early twenties,
not long out of drama
school, when I found a
copy of Jean Rhyss
Voyage in the Dark on a
stall in Greenwich Market.
It was a scrappy paperback
with a 1970s cover, but
I somehow knew it was
the book for me. And I was right. I raced through
its pages, drinking in the story of Anna, adrift in
London, working as a chorus girl, searching for a
love affair to sustain her while mourning the heat
and colour of the Domenican childhood shed left
behind. What I liked most about the book was the
looseness of its plot. It was not made up of

incidents, but rather of a sense of yearning, the
desire to belong to someone, somewhere. And
the writing was exquisite. The scenes in London
were tight and precise, the West Indian passages
looser, richer, freer. And as I read it I thought of my
own arrival in London, my own
memories of a sundrenched
African childhood and for the
rst time I thought that maybe
one day I might write
something of my own.
Esther Freuds new novel, Mr
Mac and Me, is published by
Bloomsbury (16.99)
TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR
SLEEPY HOLLOW
A small town on the banks of the
River Hudson whose inhabitants,
descended from Dutch settlers,
are deeply superstitious and fond
of ghost stories. One local legend
tells of a headless horseman who
races unsuspecting riders through
the woods and tethers his steed
nightly in the graveyard
WHAT TO DO Trick-ortreating and pumpkin carving (its

Halloween here as long as theyre
in season). Schoolteacher Ichabod
Crane hosts regular singing and
barn-dancing classes part of the
current folk-revival, along with
potent craft beers and spirits
WHERE TO STAY In one of
the gabled farmsteads, although
the towns homespun, farm-to-fork
attributes are starting to attract
celebrities tired of the Hamptons,
and prices are rising
WHAT TO PACK 1 Rabbits

foot 2 Lucky heather 3 Pinch of salt
4 Jodhpurs and a Scream mask
TRAVEL ADVICE Apart from
the sound of chattering teeth,
Sleepy Hollow is a very peaceful
destination. Those requiring even
more relaxation, however, should
continue to the Catskills to stay
with Rip Van Winkle. RICK JORDAN
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
In his 1969 collection of essays, Spirit of Place, Lawrence Durrell complains of

people not attending to what the land is saying, not conforming to the hidden
magnetic elds that the landscape is trying to communicate to the personality.
This is not a failing Philip Marsden could ever be accused of. In a series of books
and articles about Armenia, Ethiopia and elsewhere, he has built a reputation
as one of our most thoughtful travel writers. Now, in Rising Ground: A Search
for the Spirit of Place (Granta, 20), he tackles on his home ground of
Cornwall the question of why we react so strongly to certain places.
Guided by the tor enclosures and stone rows that dot the Cornish landscape,
and by the writings of chroniclers and antiquarians, Marsdens explorations,
mainly on foot, take him from Bodmin Moor to Tintagel, over to the clay country, and along the
banks of the Fal. Then on into the far south-west, to Zennor and Ninjazal and other locations
where the very place names seem to shimmer with the pressure of the past. Mythology,
remembered personal history, and dened patterns of landscape, all merge to produce a powerful
composite picture of what it really means to be in a place. There are some great passages here,
which puts Marsden alongside Richard Mabey, Roger Deakin (who died in 2006), Robert
Macfarlane, Kathleen Jamie, Patrick Barkham and others in what is rapidly becoming a school of
British nature writing. Heres Marsden near the end of his journey: At the far end of the mile-long
Whitesand Bay, the headland of Lands End stood bright in the sunlight. But it grew no closer. The
sand beneath my boots sunk with each step. It felt like trying to run in a dream. I stopped to watch
a surfer paddle in for a wave. He popped up and slid along its face, turned once
and then icked his board back behind the crest. I saw him reappear, already
prone, heading out again. I hobbled on in my walking gear.
Part of the tradition behind all this is American, coming out of 19th-century
writers such as Thoreau, the subject of another great new book, The
Adventures of Henry Thoreau: A Young Mans Unlikely Path to Walden
Pond by Michael Sims (Bloomsbury, 16.99). But there are also British and
European inuences. Marsden mentions Heidegger, for example. One of the
things that seems to be going on is the integration of the hitherto academic eld
of phenomenology the philosophical study of the structures of consciousness
and experience into the narrative of the commercial travel book. The principal benet of this
trend is sensuous prose that is multi-directionally aware, not just spatially, but also across time,
recognising the many pasts and some of the possible futures that cohere in any given spot of earth.
Clockwise from top:

Villa Las Mimosas;
Thalassotherapy circuit at
the Spa Baha del Duque;
Bedroom at Villa Las
Retamas; Natura Biss
products at the Spa
Baha del Duque
Gran Hotel Baha del Duque is a destination

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gran
designs
jacarandas and cacti cocoon guests in a private

and exotic haven.
ituated in the south of Tenerife, Gran Hotel

Baha del Duque fronts the 950-metre stretch
of coastline known as Playa del Duque. Made
up of ve coves, this is one of the islands best
coastal spots. The hotel opened in 1993 and quickly
established itself as the go-to Canarian destination
for luxury-seeking travellers. Reminiscent of a small
village, the 19 low-lying independent houses were
designed by architect Andrs Piero and are a world
away from the islands penchant for high-rise
buildings. He also made his ecological mark by
planting tropical and sub-tropical plants: 20 years on,
the resorts palm trees, dragon trees, Indian laurels,
In addition to the 300-plus rooms (all beautifully

appointed) there are 40 ultra-luxurious villas. Since
opening in 2008, these one and two-bed residences
have proved hugely popular with couples, friends and
families. Interior designer Pascua Ortega has created
ambient interiors: luxurious bedrooms come complete
with the nest linen, romantic lighting and the latest
Bang & Olufsen technology while stunning stone
bathrooms are stocked up with Acqua di Parma
products. Outside, tropical gardens transport you to a
land far away and the innity pools complete the vestar picture. Villa guests also have the bonus of in-villa
massages, aromatherapy baths, personalised breakfasts,
private dinners created to order and facilities such as
the villa pool, tea lounge and Las Aguas, the must-try
restaurant headed up by Canaries-born chef Braulio
Simancas who takes a creative approach to local fare.
new worldliness
But the resorts other pice de rsistance is the spa.
The Baha del Duque Spa has been inspired by
Tenerifes climate and natural landscape, offering
unique rituals using marine extracts, volcanic lava,
banana leaves and aloe vera that complement the
impressive la carte treatment menu that massages,
wraps, scrubs, pummels and peels. With 20 treatment
rooms, ve outdoor cabins, two enormous VIP suites

for couples (featuring private terraces and relaxation
areas), three thalassotherapy booths, a Vichy shower,
hammam, sea water therapy circuit, chi studio (used
for yoga, t'ai chi, meditation and pilates) and skincare
by hip Barcelona brand Natura Biss. The spa is about
as good as pampering gets. If you can tear yourself
away from the ultimate in relaxation, there are
numerous water sports, tennis, squash, a gymnasium,
pools galore, eight restaurants and 13 bars. For an
all-year-round, ve-star venue, Gran Hotel Baha
del Duque is about as comprehensive as it gets.
For further information on the hotel and
villas visit bahia-duque.com/en
THE EXPERTS... GADGETS
GEEK GEAR
By George Duffield
Sometimes Geek travelling isnt about what you take with you its
about whats waiting for you when you get there. But while its wonderful
to go off into nature and experience the unplugged world, occasionally
you want to play with cool stuff that you cant have at home.
SEABREACHER
Itll take a lot to top a driveable
one-man dolphin (pictured
above). This thing (also available
in shark and killer-whale
versions) dives underwater and
leaps out of the sea. I expect itll
be all over the South of France
next summer, and amusement
awaits watching people scare
themselves silly. www.
seabreacher.com; about 60,000
GIBBS
QUADSKI XL
DARK SKY
WEATHER
This is worth going on

holiday for: a quad bike that
converts into a jet ski. Imagine
the off-road adventure
potential in a dusty corner of
Patagonia. Can everyone
petition the Argentine tourist
board to ship them in?
www.gibbssports.com/
quadski-xl; about 29,500
Just to keep things a bit

more grounded, here is a
sensational new weather app
for smartphones/tablets.
It is hyper-local, which means
it gives very, very accurate
local forecasts, such as
rain in 30 minutes. Blows
other weather apps away.
www.itunes.com; 2.49
KNOMAD
MINI POWER
ORGANISER
A perfect Geek travel item.
This unobtrusive minimal
carry case takes an iPad mini,
a phone, passport and assorted
cables, plus it contains
a back-up battery so you
can charge your electricals.
Very nice convergence.
www.knomobags.com; 119
C N T R AV E L L E R.CO M
SEE THE NEW WINTER-SUN SECTION AT
OUR RELAUNCHED WEBSITE
SHORT-HOP SUNSHINE FOR FAMILIES

ISLAND ESCAPES FROM THE CANARIES TO THE CARIBBEAN
THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE MALDIVES
WHERE TO STAY RIGHT ON THE BEACH
CHRISTMAS IN THE TROPICS
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN MORRELL
THE ON-TREND DESTINATIONS TO KNOW ABOUT
Like us at facebook.com/cntraveller
Follow us at twitter.com/cntraveller
Follow us at instagram.com/condenasttraveller
THE EXPERTS... FEASTING
RASPBERRIES
EAT ME By Joanna Weinberg

With their little pink bobbles clustered
together in a dome, raspberries always
remind me of old-fashioned ladies
swimming caps. Luckily, thats where
the resemblance ends. Instead of being as
indestructible as rubber, raspberries are
the most fragile of fruit: hold them between your ngers for
more than a second and they bruise and burst. Best to eat
them quickly. And now is their last, glorious moment.
The autumn raspberries of northern climes such as Scotland,
Poland, Sweden and Russia make playthings of us. They look
and taste of hazy summer mornings, when you can make a kings
breakfast of muesli and thick, white yogurt with a few berries
bleeding over the top. Their natural afnities hark back to
warmer seasons too: with white peaches, folded
into yellow cream scented with a few drops of
rosewater, or with cloud-like meringues streaked
through cream whipped with elderower cordial.
Yet instead here we are: the plums are nearly
over, apples in high season, the sun setting golden
and earlier every day, replaces glowing again.
Despite this, raspberries are still best eaten
cold or even from the freezer because, jam aside,
heat does nothing for them. Think of a plate of
the frozen berries with hot white-chocolate
sauce (simply equal parts white chocolate
and double cream melted together) poured
over the top and you have an effortless dinner-party pudding. Or

leave them on a sunny windowsill for an hour before eating them
to be rewarded with a highly fragrant burst of acid sweetness.
It is this acidity that brings them back to dairy partnerships
every time, whether its topping a pastry case smeared with
slightly sweetened mascarpone, or lling a Victoria sponge
alongside unctuous clotted cream. You can even scatter them
over a pizza with rocket and good mozzarella, a dribble of best
olive oil and a pinch of salt; you will be surprised by how like
cherry tomatoes they taste. They are also one of the few fruit
that can pal up with dark chocolate. Pack them into brownies
or briey warm through with sugar to make the lightest of
compotes to offset a rich chocolate cake.
THIS MONTHS RECIPE

Heres a favourite no-cook pud that could
almost double for breakfast: place a few
very ripe raspberries into the bottom of a
glass with a couple of drops of rosewater,
briey bruise and add a thick layer of Greek
yogurt, then another of fruit anything soft
would work and more yogurt. Finally, top with
a layer of dark muscovado sugar and allow to
macerate in the fridge for a couple of hours so
the raspberry juice can streak the yogurt
from below and the sugar can streak it from
above. The last mouthful of summer.
The raspberry is the debussy of fruit:

slave over the stove? Im torn between Southwold Premium
digestible, melodious, evocative and easy on
Vodka (35), one of the most perfect Ive tasted (amazing
the senses (with a hint of decadence). But
what comes out of Suffolk these days), and Spirit of London
before we select the bottles to accompany
Dry Gin (26), made in Clapham in south London. The gins
it in its various guises, it is appropriate
botanical subtleties knock any of the big brands into a cocked hat.
we choose a cooking wine. That is to say a bottle to indulge in
Both liquors are available at Marks & Spencer. But what of those
as you prepare the fruit (not to mention your concocting of the
raspberries, transmuted with peaches and Greek yogurt into
rest of the meal). A thoroughly luxurious liquid is required,
something divine? You hardly need me to tell you a sweet wine is
something which is utterly original; so
called for, but which? I would divide the
HAVING A BOTTLE
out of the ordinary it will present a
choice between two styles: those which
different facet of itself, over the few
offer a massive sweet hit and meld into
OF SUMPTUOUS
hours you drink it, every time you bring
CHAMPAGNE TO HAND the dessert as if a component of it and,
the glass to your nose and lips. If money
on the other hand, more complex wines
WILL ENHANCE
is no object then ask your butler, or PA,
with provocative personalities of their own.
to telephone Majestic, or to nd the one or
YOUR COOKING SKILLS Into the rst category fall all the various
two branches that actually have a bottle of
high street and supermarket Moscatels
CONSIDERABLY
Dom Prignon 2004 (134) on the shelf.
de Valencia (under 7), perfectly
It is a sumptuous Champagne without being too intense
serviceable in their own way but not, I suggest, the wine to offer
(although it will gain in gravitas if cellared for anything up to
critical palates. For them, Waitrose can provide a brace of stunning
the next 20 years). Having it to hand will enhance your cooking
bottles: Crociani Vin Santo di Montepulciano 2008 (19.49 for the
skills considerably. If that seems a trie excessive, then I suggest
half) and Chteau Suduiraut Sauternes 2009 (90). The former
Sainsburys non-vintage own-label Champagne Blanc de Blancs
offers that medicinal toastiness peculiar to the type (made from
(22.50). It is a ne piece of vinous tailoring. If neither of
dried grapes) but the latter is dazzling, aunting cherries, marzipan
these bottles appeals, how about a spirit to keep you going as you
and roasted honey. Above all, the Suduiraut is my choice.
ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY. PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY
DRINK ME By Malcolm Gluck
location
location
location
Passionate about travel, Holland America Line adds cool to cruising:

:HFKHFNRXWLWVYHVWDUHHWDQGKDUGWRUHVLVWGHVWLQDWLRQGLDU\
Clockwise from this image:

Macchu Picchu in South
America; Fine wines come
as standard; Bulgari china
setting at the Pinnacle Grill;
Antarctic cruising
Arts Centre presented by Food and Wine

magazine and the oh-so-tempting Asian-inspired
Greenhouse Spa. The food gives ve-star
hotels a run for their money, particularly at
the Italian inspired Canaletto and the intimate
Pinnacle Grill.
the world's your oyster
olland America Line is the travel industrys bestkept secret, and part of us wants to keep
it that way. But for the cruise cautious, Holland
America Line will blow any blue-rinse
preconception out of the water. Its all-chic/no-chintz
style and innovative destination-led attitude creates a
vibe that is fresh and modern. For a totally unique travel
experience, globetrotting with Holland
America Line comes highly recommended.
Holland America lines 15-strong eet of ships is more

like an exclusive collection of luxury oating hotels.
They are all mid-sized, a brilliant balance between
excellent facilities and that hard-to-come-by personal
touch. Onboard elegance and a home-from-home
ambience feature impressive antiques, fresh owers,
priceless art, uffy bathrobes, Egyptian cotton and
private balconies. Theres also a library and internet
centre powered by The New York Times, a Culinary
But it is Holland America Lines portfolio of

destinations that delivers the real wow factor.
2015 features more than 125 itineraries: from
Alaska to Asia, Australasia to the Amazon, the
Caribbean to Canada, theyve even introduced
a closer to home no-y product for Brits. We not
only want to try all the itineraries, we also highly
approve of extra port time allowing guests to
explore the world at leisure.
WINTER WARMERS SOUTH AMERICA

Fascinating cultures, vibrant cities, natural wonders
and beautiful beaches: South America never ceases
to seduce. In winter, Holland America Line has four
ships exploring this intriguing corner of the globe.
Top itineraries include the 14-night South America
Passage from Santiago to Buenos Aires taking in
Iguazu Falls, Montevideo, the Chilean fjords,
Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn. The 20/21-night
Antarctica trip is in the do-before-you-die territory
and the 14-night Amazon trip combines remote
jungle with Caribbean bliss.
ASIAN ADVENTURE
The exotic east is a heady mix of culture and beach
bliss-out. We love the look of the 14-night Asian
Adventure from Singapore to the hidden gem of
Myanmar (Burma), Malaysia, Thailand and the
Andaman Islands. Other 14-night cruises to catch
our eye include the Far East Discovery (Hong
Kong, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam) and
the fascinating 14-night China & Japan Discovery.
For further information call Holland
America Line on 0843 374 2300
or visit hollandamerica.co.uk
THE EXPERTS... ADVICE
Q
A
Q
A
My husband and I are of to explore the Amalf coast,

basing ourselves in Sorrento. Where should we eat to
avoid the tourist traps?
Bad holiday meals happen to me when Im too hungry

to look beyond the frst place I stumble into. In Sorrento
recently for a friends wedding I did just that, ending up with
the saddest margherita pizza: an overcooked base, topped
with four pieces of uncooked cheese and a few slivers of
tomato. I blame the hangover. But with a bit
more planning and exploring I found some
great food in town, too. At Inn Bufalito the
clue is in the name: its all about bufalo,
from balls of mozzarella that ooze milk as
theyre torn apart, to huge slabs of steak that
take two hungry men to tackle. But dont
miss the rich paccheri with bufalo ragu so
good we went back twice. Down by the little
harbour there are also a couple of charming
trattorias, Da Emilia and Taverna Azzurra,
that are not as pictures-on-the-menu as
their twinkly shore-side location suggests.
FIONA KERR
Seafood, naturally, is the thing to order:
WORD OF MOUTH
the crab ravioli at Azzura, the spaghetti alle
EDITOR
vongole at Emilia, followed by whatever
catch (seabass, bream, snapper) is the grilled fsh of the
day. Finish with an ice-cold shot of local limoncello.
Q
A
Im looking for a good campsite within easy driving

distance of London thatll be family friendly for half
term. Do you have any suggestions?
Ive recently pulled out the tent pegs and squelched
happily away from a feld that belonged to the Wowo
campsite (www.wowo.co.uk). Its just outside Haywards
Heath in West Sussex and is pronounced woo-woo, a
sound you may hear a lot in the woodland as packs of
muddy eight-year-olds run wild and launch themselves
on rope-swings. We pitched our own tents, but you can
also stay in one of the yurts that sprout like giant
mushrooms under the trees the Alice has a skylight for
star-gazing; Little Owl is
completely organic, with beeswax
candles or a gypsy caravan or
lotus-bell tent. Youre allowed to
build fres (keep an ear out for
log deliveries) and theres a small
shop for rashers of local farm
bacon and campsite vegetables,
so no need to pinpoint the
nearest Waitrose. With free kids
yoga sessions, ukulele and
hunter-gatherer workshops and
RICK JORDAN
a village area for acoustic music
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR
and free soup, it all feels very
festivally. And if it pours, you can take shelter in the
Barn, which has squashy sofas, books and table football
(bring a set of balls, though, or whittle your own using
your newfound woodcraft skills). Nearby are the
Bluebell Railway and The Sloop Inn for foaming pints of
Dark Star ale and glasses of sparkling Sussex wine.
I am visiting New Orleans and want to go on a
swamp tour while Im there. I dont know where to
start. Which set-up do you think is best?
Without doubt, Pearl River Eco-Tours (www.pearl
riverecotours.com) on the Honey Island Swamp. Its an
easy 40-minute drive north of New Orleans, across the
eastern end of Lake Pontchartrain (when you get near,
ignore the road signs which are misleading and be
guided by your satnav instead). The company is owned
by laid-back local Neil Benson, who frst started taking
people out on the swamp as a summer job when he was
13 years old. If youre mostly interested in seeing alligators
and there are plenty, politely snapping up chunks of
hot dog and marshmallows of a stick before ficking their
tails and swimming away or on a budget, book a place
on one of the bigger boats. But if you want to go farther
into the 250 square miles of wetlands on the narrower,
smaller waterways, the six-person tour is best (both last
two hours). Youll see families
of turtles resting on the
banks, black racer snakes
curled up on fallen trees and
blue herons mid-fight. Passing
the Indian Village, a Cajun
community of around 45
families who live on the swamp
where Oscar-nominated flm
Beasts of the Southern Wild
EMMA LOVE
was shot, is a real highlight.
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
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Upp juices upp USB devices as

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VILLA MARE, LANZAROTE
STERNA, KEFALONIA
GONDRA, ALGARVE
Home
JameS
Exciting new properties join the award-winning portfolio of
James Villa Holidays in 2015, offering more choice than ever before
ong favoured by discerning travellers,
James Villa Holidays has much to celebrate in
its 30th year. With three decades of experience,
award-winning service and an ever-expanding
portfolio of properties across 50 destinations, James
Villas is the leader in its eld. From countryside chic
to coastal glamour, each villa in the 2,700-strong
collection has been handpicked by experts,
making James the name to trust.
And thats not all: in 2015 James Villas Luxury

collection will be further enhanced with the addition
of a selection of exceptional new properties. These
include, in Corfu, the four-bedroom Villa Bianca
sitting in the shadow of Mount Pantokrator featuring
sublime views across the Ionian Sea. Its spacious, lightlled interior offers stylish, open-plan living with
terraces, balconies and picture windows to make

the most of the beautiful scenery. Should you tire
of lounging by the innity pool, a short drive brings
you to the charming coastal village of Barbati, or
you can head further aeld to explore the historic
wonders of Corfu Town.
Those seeking even more seclusion will nd it at
Villa de Oro, an eight-bedroom villa in the exclusive
Golden Mile on the Costa del Sol. This handsome
residence is t for a king (your neighbours include the
Saudi royal family) with a live-in housekeeper and chef
to take care of every last need. A spectacular thatched
chiringuito stands at one end of the garden, offering a
sociable spot in which to gather for barbecues and
cocktails before cooling off in the large pool. While
privacy is a key feature of the villa, the chic bars,
Clockwise from top left:
Exterior and pool at Villa
Bianca, Corfu; Living area
in Villa de Oro, Costa del
Sol; Outdoor dining at
Domes Luxury II, Crete;
Exterior of Villa de Oro;
Outdoor living at Villa
Bianca
restaurants and boutiques of Porto Banus and

Marbella are within easy reach, so you can fully enjoy
the lifestyle that this stretch of coast has to offer.
For smaller groups and couples, Domes Luxury II
is a collection of contemporary two-bedroom villas
located on the Mirabello Gulf in Crete. Set within
the Domes of Elounda Resort,
guests can enjoy all the facilities
of a hotel with the privacy and
independence of a villa setting
truly the best of both worlds.
Discover these and more

exquisite properties at
jamesvillas.co.uk/luxury
COMPETITION
WHERE ARE YOU?
PHOTOGRAPH: AMES TYE/IMAGEBRIEF
Happy birthday. But how old would

you have to be for several thousand
lanterns to be lit in your honour? This
colourful display can be seen in a temple
that teeters on a precipice halfway
up a 740-metre mountain. Reaching the
top will certainly put you on the right
track for attaining enlightenment, and
many people do: the peak is so close
to a capital city theres a subway station
right next to it, surrounded by stalls
selling silky, handmade tofu, and weekend
hikers often have to form an orderly
queue. Mountain climbing in this country
is a social occasion, the chance to see
friends and family and stop off for a
picnic. Trails weave around the rocks like
noodles, and most are relatively

easy, with ropes and railings to hold
on to, taking walkers past unusual
stone formations and carved religious
statues. A few shots of homemade
rice-wine, sold by vendors at the base,
may make it tougher to reach the top.
The mountain is part of a national
park that is also home to a botanical
garden, containing irises and azaleas
almost as brightly coloured as paper
lanterns. Where are you? RICK JORDAN
To enter, identify the mountain and city
described above. Correct answers will be
placed in a random prize-draw. For competition
rules and prize details, please turn the page
COMPETITION PRIZE
WIN
A HOLIDAY WORTH 5,000

If you want to stay on one of the most
beautiful beaches in the Indian Ocean,
The St Regis Mauritius Resort is the spot for
you. Set on a stretch of white sand in the
UNESCO World Heritage Site of Le Morne,
the hotel makes the most of its location. All
rooms have terraces with sea views, and the
Water Sport Centre gives guests the chance
to splash around in, on or under the waves.
The Iridium Spa has a local avour, with
guava and coconut milk among the ingredients
used, and the Simply India restaurant is one
of half a dozen great places to eat.
Enter this months Where Are You?
competition and you could win a ve-night
holiday for two here, including half-board
accommodation in an Ocean View Deluxe
Room, one 30-minute spa treatment per
person, return ights from London courtesy
of Carrier, plus hotel transfers. The prize,
which is worth about 5,000, must be
taken between 8 January and 17 December
2015. The following exclusion dates apply:
14 February1 March; 20 March19 April;
18 July30 August; 23 October1 November.
For details, call +44 161 826 5225 or visit www.
carrier.co.uk and www.stregismauritius.com
Identify the location,

left, and send in
your entry to arrive
by 31 October. All
correct entries will
also be included in the
Grand Prize draw at
the end of the current
competition period
(1 October 2014
30 September 2015).
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of
Cond Nast Publications, participating

promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families
of any of the above. Entries by post
should be sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square,
London W1S 1JU. Email entries
should be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk. To enter online
and for full terms & conditions, visit
www.cntraveller.com/competitions
JULYS WINNER
The winner of Julys competition is Ann Reynolds of
Thakeham in Sussex, who correctly identied the picture
below as a view of Dam Square in Amsterdam. She wins
a holiday for two at the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray in Dubai.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXANDROS ANAGNOSTIDIS; JAMES TYE/IMAGEBRIEF
HOW TO ENTER
READER OFFER
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ho wouldnt want to bed down on the shores

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Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive opportunity
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stays between 4 May and 19 June 2015.
FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK
Patrick Demarchelier The Cond Nast Publications Ltd
Call 0800 742742 or visit www.sandals.co.uk
WANT TO WORK
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INTENSIVE ACADEMIC
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hattering cicadas and the heady scent of

pine; sun-parched earth and shimmering
cobalt sea; silver-green olive groves
interspersed with ancient vineyards;
cypress trees towering like centurions and lemon
groves bursting with colour: this is the Greece of
the Ionian islands, the place that inspired CV
(Corfu Villas) Villas 40 years ago. Its hard not to
fall for this stunning archipelago that sweeps
down the west coast of mainland Greece.
Natural beauty is not its only asset: theres a rich
culture, fabulous food, genuine Greek hospitality
and villas galore. CV Villas Greek portfolio
strikes gold with its vast selection of idyllic gems:
some above secret coves or cocooned by olive
groves, others in traditional villages or perched
atop cliffs. Every property has been tried and
tested and the consultants have a real passion
for the islands.
viva la
villa
The Greek islands have long been a villa hotspot. This month we explore the
Ionian Islands, home to some of CV Villas most sought-after properties
Q Corfu
CV Villas Ionian portfolio is particularly impressive
with Corfu having the lions share. The island was the
setting for Gerald Durrells rural idyll My Family and
Other Animals, and despite resorts developing around
the coast it is still easy to get off the beaten track. The
islands history is written in its mix of huge fortresses,
impressive Byzantine churches, Homeric sites,
Venetian houses, Parisian-style cafes, even the odd
T R AVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

Clockwise from this
image: View from the
Beach House, Lefkada;
Greek salad at Kalamaki
Bay House; Lunch
at Allegra, Corfu;
St Stephano, Corfu;
Kalamaki Bay House,
Corfu; Atolikos House
its holiday vibe: all have pretty harbours buzzing with

boats and tavernas, places to enjoy seafood feasts
washed down with a glass of retsina. On the coast,
cobalt seas meets cobalt skies and days are spent
between sea and sunlounger. Ultimately, Paxos is a
place to relax and unwind but for the doers, the sea
offers up a host of water sports including boat trips to
Anti-Paxos (the even sleepier sister island).
Villa speak: The CV books boast 17 villas dotted
around Paxos. Theres everything from al fresco
Mouzmouli (sleeps ten) nestled into a pine-scented
hillside to the rustic old stone Erimitis with its
dramatic cliff-edge pool.
Q Lefkada
This is probably the sleepiest of the Ionian sisters, an
Q Kefalonia
A big island brought into the spotlight by Captain
Corellis Mandolin, Kefalonia has seen Italian
occupation, German invasion and civil war. But today
it stands strong and beautiful, a destination back to its
brochure best. From Skala to Fiskardo, from beautiful
Assos to the stunning Caribbean look-a-like beach of
Myrtos, Kefalonias coastal vibe is diverse cool. Theres
swimming, snorkelling, diving, yachting, beach bumming
and cave exploring plus a fantastic food scene with
beachfront tavernas groaning under the weight of
mezze, sensational seafood and agons of local wine.
Villa speak: There are 10 real beauties on the Kefalonia
books including the view-laden Villa Gerasimos that
shares its hillside perch with Villa Artemis and the
rural gem Villa Isicos near Foki Bay.
viva la villa
cricket match. Venture from the well-trodden path
and stumble across remote farmhouses, small hamlets
and local restaurants serving mouthwatering moussaka
and kleftiko. Trekking and cycling are popular
pastimes but it is inevitably on the coast where most of
the action takes place with boat trips, diving and a host
of other water sports.
Villa speak: With more than 100 villas dotted
around the island, CV Villas have the answer to
every villa-need. The only problem is narrowing
it down to one.
Q Paxos
Small, quiet and pine-covered, Paxos is the Ionian
idyll. Seasoned trekkers tend to explore on foot while
the more hammock-inclined can hire a scooter and
pootle past centuries-old olive groves, through tiny
shuttered villages down to tiny coves. Three pastelcoloured towns (Gaos, Loggos and Lakka) give Paxos
unsung gem that fully deserves a bit of time in the

Greek limelight. We love Lefkada Town with its
pastel houses, cobbled streets and excellent food
scene. Stop for freshly made coffee, lunch on
souvlakia, bread, olives and taramasalata followed by
honey cakes. Mountainous and remote, Lefkadas
interior has a charming step-back-in time feel but it is
the beach scene that has put it on the travel map.
Spectacular cliffs, bays and headlands are punctuated
by some of the best beaches in Greece. Sunbathing,
swimming and siestas are high on the agenda but for
those who get dgety, Lefkada is great for trekking,
cycling, riding and water sports. The proper explorer
can even seek out the mainland from here.
Villa speak: CV Villas have 19 villas on Lefkada.
We love this portfolio that covers everything from
a traditional stone built cottage (sleeping two)
to the super-smart Beach House (big enough
to sleep 10).
Whether travelling with family, friends or deux, villa

holidays are hard to beat. Theres something suspending
about checking into a home miles from home. CV Villas
handpick the best and with such a diverse portfolio, there
is always one that ticks every holiday box.
CV Villas is offering a saving of up to 500* per
villa holiday. Bookings must be made directly
with CV Villas and include a villa and up to four
ights. For further information visit cvvillas.com.
To claim the offer quote CNT500.
*Terms & conditions apply.
YOU ARE WELCOME!
You are different. That is why we have created a modern urban lifestyle experience
in the cosmopolitan city of Abu Dhabi that is sure to exceed your every expectation.
Introducing Jumeirah at Etihad Towers in the heart of Abu Dhabi.
For reservations please contact +971 2 811 5888 or visit jumeirah.com

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PRODUCED BY
PROMOTIONS
the sky really is the limit when visiting the

middle east these days explains CHRIS ANDERSON
ARABIA
f anyone were to
look at the striking
shell-like exterior
of the Yas Viceroy
Abu Dhabi hotel
viceroyhotels
andresorts.com/
abudhabi, located
in the middle of
the citys Formula
1 track (particularly when its
light show at night begins)
or were to cast an eye over
to Saadiyat Island, where the
silver dome roof of a local
branch of the Louvre museum
is nearing completion, their
first impression might be
that the UAE's capital has
somehow travelled back from
the future. Never mind old and
new, this spectacular scene
is more like old and
futuristic.
t seems that Abu Dhabi

has been very forwardthinking in terms of
certain developments,
and the Yas Island Formula
1 circuit will give Lewis
Hamilton and friends something
to talk about in the pitlanes
every year. The site is a
short drive from the city
and about halfway towards
Dubai, with the Yas Marina
Circuit yasmarinacircuit.
com which holds many events
during the year inspiring
other race-themed attractions
close by. Perhaps the most
well-known is Ferrari World
ferrariworldthemepark.com,
boasting over 20 rides,
including the worlds fastest
rollercoaster and the Ferrari
ABU DHABI
SOUK
CAPSULE
The UAE's capital has big plans afoot to

celebrate regional and global culture
1
Academy for children.

A huge waterpark, Yas
Waterworld yaswaterworld.
com, including 43 rides,
has also opened here, or
there is the Yas Links Abu
Dhabi Golf Course yaslinks.
com for those who prefer
their entertainment a little
more sedate. A complimentary
shuttle bus, the Yas Express,
runs frequently, servicing
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP: THE ROOF
OF THE YAZ
VICEROY; FERRARI
WORLD ON YAS
ISLAND IN
ABU DHABI
the main attractions and

nearby hotels.
It is the islands around

the city that are currently
under development, and while
Yas is all about adrenalin,
Saadiyat plans to celebrate
art and heritage. As part of
an initiative by the Abu Dhabi
Tourism & Cultural Authority
adach.ae/en, which preserves
the emirates cultural side and
promotes tourism, a number of
museums will open here, with
Abu Dhabis own version of
the Louvre louvreabudhabi.ae
the first one. A collaboration
with the French government,
it will be broad in scope,
with archaeology and fine art
from around the world. The
exterior promises to be just
as appealing as the things
housed inside, designed
by Pritzker Prize-winning
architect Jean Nouvel, giving
the impression of a silver dome
4
6
1 . MARCEL - TH E SHO RT SLEEV E GR EEN

PO LO , 40 , BLUEM I NT . CO M ; 2. UN I FO R M
WAR ES PEWTER PRUS SIAN BLUE RUBBER
WATCH , 170 , SUNSPEL . CO M ;
3 . PANAMA , 89 , W H ITELEY- HAT . CO . UK ;
4 . POSI LLI PO BY E . MAR I N ELLA, EAU
DE TO I LETTE SPRAY 7 5 M L , 9 0 ,
MANSFI ELD. IT ; 5 . RAY- BAN CLUBMASTER
ACETATE AND M ETAL M I RRO R ED
SUNG LASSES, 135 , M RPO RTER . CO M ;
6. TEAG UE PEN NY LOAFTER , 124 . 99 ,
SEBAGO .CO M ; 7 . ARTHUR O R I ENT
SWI M SHO RTS , 77 , BLUEM I NT . CO M
ARABIA
rising from the water. The
other museums planned for
Saadiyat will prove stiff
competition, however, with
the Guggenheim guggenheim.
org/abu-dhabi arguably the
most striking, featuring a
tubular design by architect
Frank Gehry, said to be
influenced by the regions
wind towers. The Maritime
Museum, Zayed National
Museum and Performing Arts
Centre will complete this
cultural collection.
Yet not everything borders
Getting there
Current flight deals
to and from Abu Dhabi
can be found at
etihad.com/en-gb
Where to stay
Modern comfort
Q The Hyatt Capital
on the futuristic. The

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
szgmc.ae/en, for example,
is a truly unforgettable
sight the largest in
the country and one
of the biggest in the
world, accommodating
40,000 worshippers in its
marble-clad prayer halls.
Chandeliers made from
Swarovski crystals line the
insides, and can even be
appreciated by non-Muslims
as the mosque offers
free tours every weekday
(Sunday-Thursday) at 10am.
Gate (abudhabi.
capitalgate.hyatt.
com) has earned the
title of the worlds
furthest-leaning
manmade tower, with
the hotel on floors
18-33 on quite an
incline.
Old tradition
QQasr Al Sarab
Desert Resort by
Anantara in the Liwa
Desert, qasralsarab.
anantara.com provides
camel trekking,
falconry and a spa
in a serene setting.
CLOCKWISE FROM
RIGHT: CAMEL
RIDES AT THE
EMIRATES PALACE
HOTEL; EXTERIOR
OF THE SHEIKH
ZAYED GRAND
MOSQUE
he Emirates Palace
emiratespalace.com,
is another key landmark
within the city which,
contrary to what the name
suggests, is actually a
lavish hotel operated by
Kempinski. You may need the
bank account of a royal to
stay here, but you can just
visit for a few hours to
appreciate the immaculate
gardens, art gallery, spa and
restaurants. And be sure to
stop for a cappuccino dusted
with real 14 carat gold
flakes before you leave, as
it just seems like the right
thing to do here.
And for more local culture,

the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital
falconhospital.com is a
popular choice, with a chance
to learn why these birds
are so highly prized in the
region. The Heritage Village
on the breakwater near Marina
Mall marinamall.ae, meanwhile,
will provide an insight into
traditional Bedouin life,
while the Souk at Qaryat
Al Beri soukqaryatalberi.
com offers a modern take
on a classic Arabic market,
complete with abras (water
taxis), bars, restaurants
and waterside views.
Granted, those last two
attractions come with
major distractions in terms
of the fabulous shopping
opportunities located nearby.
If this is of interest,
a trip to the Dalma Mall
dalmamall.net should be a
priority, with over 400
stores to explore, making
it the largest in the city.
Abu Dhabi Mall abudhabimall.com and Al Wahda Mall
alwahda-mall.com are also
well worth a look, while
those in the market for
gold should head to the
Gold Souk in Madinet Zayed
madinatzayed-mall.com for
the best deals.
The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is a truly

unforgettable sight the largest in the
country and one of the biggest in the world
B U S IN E S S TR AV E L O R WE E K E ND GE TAWAY
Its all in The Address
Welcome to The Address Hotels + Resorts. Located
in the most vibrant parts of the city, The Address Hotels

+ Resorts is defining the global standards of luxury
hospitality. From business meetings to social rendezvous.
From absolute relaxation to luxurious indulgences. Its
where world-class services have been recreated to suit
discerning tastes. Its where energy surrounds you the
minute you walk in. Its chic. Its exciting. Its all in The Address.
DOWNTOWN DUBAI | DUBAI MALL | DUBAI MARINA

MONTGOMERIE DUBAI | THE PALACE DOWNTOWN DUBAI
CALL +971 4 423 8888 | [email protected]
www.chiccollection.com +44 (0)20 3735 5033
URBAN CHIC
THE NORMAN
TEL AVIV
THE EDITION
ISTANBUL
The Norman Tel Aviv is a fusion of 1920s elegance

and unparalleled service, housed in two historic
buildings, superbly restored to their unique
architectural heritage. Enjoy the ultimate personalized
boutique hotel experience with exclusive luxury
services and facilities, including a rooftop pool and a
selection of world-class fine dining restaurants.
An exclusive hotel in the heart of one of the worlds

most vibrant cities. A fifteen story tower with 78
guest rooms and a magnificent, full-floor penthouse,
The Istanbul EDITION serves as a sophisticated hub
providing multiple venues for relaxing and entertaining
including a three-story spa by ESPA, Cipriani
restaurant, Gold Bar and the world-renowned
Billionaire nightclub.
A Chic Collection hotel is strikingly individual,

exceptionally elegant, truly charming and always
authentic. In this same spirit, guests of Chic
Collection hotels are rewarded with an insight into
the local customs, history and culture of the
destination. Our network and in-depth knowledge
of different cultures and countries allow us to advise
travellers on a variety of authentic travel options.

We hand-pick all of our hotel members individually
to ensure true quality, genuine experiences and
unrivalled excellence. We understand that todays
chic travellers demand individualism, discretion and
unobtrusive service, therefore we embrace a truly
global range of destinations.
URBAN CHIC
HOTEL MADERA
HONG KONG
THE STAFFORD
LONDON
Located in the heart of Kowloon, Hotel Madera Hong

Kong is a hidden gem in Hong Kongs urban bustle.
Choose from a stylish selection of designer suites or
deluxe rooms, each offering breath-taking vistas over
the city. Take in the views of Victoria Harbour from
the Horizonte rooftop lounge. Just a short walk from
Jordan station offering easy access to all the sights
and sounds of Hong Kong.
Tucked away in the heart of St. Jamess rests The

Stafford London, one of the last remaining bastions
of British hospitality. The hotel features 105 rooms
and suites, The Lyttelton restaurant, the Wine
Cellars, and the famous American Bar.
ARABIA
he worlds tallest
building and
fascinating manmade
islands are among
Dubais main selling
points, but this is
a city that likes
its past too. Dubai
is a city never
short of media attention.
Its extravagance is something
that has the whole world
intrigued, with stories of
record-breaking shopping malls
and residents with goldplated iPhones. This is the
city that gave its police
force Lamborghinis, and is the
largest in the UAE. But at 90
minutes from the capital, Abu
Dhabi, and with the two joined
by a modern highway, it is
possible to see both, as well
as other parts of the region,
during your stay.
Yet few places within the UAE
will have achieved as much
as Dubai in the 40 years or
DUBAI
The city is famous for the modern
but it also likes to display its history
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

THE CITY SKYLINE
REFLECTED IN A WATER
FEATURE; TRADITIONAL
ABRA FERRIES AT
SUNSET; LOBBY OF THE
BURJ AL ARAB HOTEL
so that the building here

began in earnest. All of
its top attractions have
been created in that time,
from the Burj Khalifa to
the Palm Jumeirah. Before

this time, Dubai Creek, a
channel heading inland from
the citys coastline, has
been used as a trading hub
for centuries, and this is
the place where the city's
origins can be found. But
first, any visitor will need
a place to stay, with the
Burj Al Arab hotel, built
in the shape of a sail, no
the dubai creek, a channel heading inland

from the city's coastline, has been used
as a trading hub for centuries
doubt at the top of most

wishlists. Operated by the
Jumeirah group jumeirah.com,
the room prices may not be
for everyones wallet, but
you can go for a meal at one
of its restaurants, or even
the Skyview Bar to enjoy
camel milk cocktails high
above the water. Booking
for either must be done in
advance, with names checked
at the main gate.
The Burj Al Arab is just
a short distance from the
Madinat Jumeirah complex,
worth a look because of
SLEEP.
OUR MOST POPULAR DESTINATION.
Do not disturb. Stretched out on a fully-flat bed. The sumptuous soft mattress and bedtime drink beginning to take
effect. About to touch down on a cotton-wool cloud. From gentle ambient cabin lighting, to soothing pillow mist
aromas, see how far were going to bring you some well-deserved sleep at etihad.com/comfortzone
Welcome to a more comfortable world.
Flying to more than 85 destinations via Abu Dhabi with daily flights from London Heathrow, Manchester,
with Edinburgh daily from June 2015.
Find out more at etihad.com
ARABIA
its traditional Arabic
architecture, complete with
wind towers. A modern souk
with shops and restaurants
can be found inside, as well
as picturesque waterways
with their own motorised
abras (water taxis). The
Wild Wadi Waterpark is also
located nearby.
While the Madinat
Jumeirah offers a modern
interpretation of the past,
for real authenticity a trip
to the Creek is a must. It
is still used as a trading
port today, with wooden
dhows sailing up and down.
To have a look around, take
the Dubai Metro to Bur Dubai,
and from here walk to the
area of Bastakiya, marvelling
at its narrow alleys and
wind towers. Visit the Dubai
Museum dubaiculture.ae and
material souk, then take an
abra over to Deira for the

gold and spice markets.
source of fascination for

Dubais many visitors.
Dubai Creek and the souks can

seem like a world away from
a landmark development like
the Palm Jumeirah, rather
than a short trip. This huge
manmade island, built in the
shape of a palm tree, is best
appreciated by helicopter
helicoptertourdubai.com or
by skydive skydivedubai.ae.
Made by pouring sand from the
desert into the water may
seem straightforward enough,
but it is still a great
Luckily, it's also possible

to stay here. Atlantis
The Palm atlantisthepalm.
com, located at the very
top of the palm, has great
restaurants, a waterpark, a
dolphin centre, and a huge
aquarium, so is definitely
worth visiting. Two more
recent openings include
the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray
jumeirah.com, modelled on
an Ottoman palace, and the
Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm
Getting there
Current flight
details to and from
Dubai can be found at
emirates.com/uk
Where to stay
Modern comfort
QMeydan
Home every year to
the Dubai World Cup,

the Meydan horserace
Downtown Dubai.
Vida vida-hotels.com
track also has a

lavish 284-room hotel
operates two hotels

in the Downtown area,
not far from the Burj
Khalifa and Dubai
Mall. The styling
inside and out
channels traditional
Arabic architecture.
meydanhotels.com/
Meydan. The Friday
brunch here is
excellent.
Old tradition
QHotel Vida,
Jumeirah waldorfastoria3.
hilton.com, with a restaurant
courtesy of Michelin starred
chef Heinz Beck. Both take
advantage of their location,
with private beaches and
spectacular views. More
hotels can be found at
chiccollection.com, using
the search term Dubai.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE

LEFT: ENTRANCE TO THE
ARMANI HOTEL; GUEST
BATHROOM AT THE
OBEROI; VIEW FROM
THE WALDORF ASTORIA
DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH
With the Burj Al Arab and

Palm Jumierah at one end
of the coastline and the
historic Creek at the other,
this mix of old and new
is best savoured with the
view from the Burj Khalifa
burjkhalifa.ae, the worlds
tallest building, located
in downtown Dubai. At over
828 metres high, a trip to
the Observation Deck costs
a small fee, but be sure to
book your tickets online,
rather than just turn up, as
it will mean a huge saving.
The entrance is actually
SOUK
CAPSULE
1
2
7
3
6
6
4
1 . NATURAL MO NTECR ISTI SUPER FI NO

PANAMA , 395 , LOV EBRAN D . CO ;
2 .B OSWO RTH EB O NY SHAD ES , 160 ,
FI NLAYAND CO .CO M ; 3 . JACK SP AD E NY
NO RTO N 2 - EYE CHRO NO GRAPH WATCH ,
350 , 020 7734 4768 ; 4 . CLI PPERBLACK
SCOTCHG RAI N BAG WITH CO GNAC TR I M ,
550 , MULBERRY . CO M ; 5 . FO LDABLE
DR IV I NG SHO E, 1 15 , LAPO RTEGNA. CO M ;
6. MADE TO M IG RATE M ENS CLAS SIC
SHO RT, 1 10 ; 7. M I NT G R EEN M ENS LI N EN
SHI RT, 99.0 0 , B OTH LOV EBRAN D . CO
via the neighbouring Dubai

Mall thedubaimall.com,
which boasts a cinema, ice
rink, aquarium, and the
KidZania and Sega Republic
theme parks, demonstrating
how Dubai likes to make a
spectacle of its malls.
Nearby Mall of the Emirates
malloftheemirates.com even
has its own ski slope with
real snow, and every year
the city hosts the monthlong Dubai Shopping Festival
mydsf.ae, with plenty of
bargains to snap up and
entertainment galore,
sponsored by Dubai Duty Free.
the manmade palm jumeirah

is best viewed either from
a helicopter or on a skydive
Where in the world

Could you Zzz in a snooze cube, soak at a spa,
chat to a virtual guide?
Dubai International isnt just one of the worlds busiest airports. Its also one of most
exciting and innovative. From little touches to major initiatives, were creating a truly
world class experience. Come and see for yourself.
Our next destination: rst place. Yours?
Follow us on:
Uniquely
royal
Ultimate luxury in a unique Arabian hideaway discover the splendour

of enchanting Abu Dhabi and the opulence of the Emirates Palace
n Abu Dhabi landmark in its own right,

the superb Emirates Palace building sports
114 domes reaching 80 metres into the
clear blue waterfront skies, offering
a truly magical splendour.
This 1001 Nights-style experience is unique in every

way. Offering almost a mile of its own private beach,
the magnicent Emirates Palace lives within the city,
yet oats in its own landscape of gardens and pools.
At the Emirates Palace, 302 rooms and 92 guest suites
are furnished in marble and gold, with supremely
tasteful styling and luxurious fabrics. As well as a
landmark spa, the Emirates Palace boasts 15 superb
restaurants, lounges and bars, offering authentic
cuisines and al fresco dining across the palace terrace.

And the Emirates Palace Marina there is the most
prestigious and luxurious marina development in
the region. Choose exquisite local specialities at Mezlai,
the rst authentic outlet for Emirati ne dining, sample
tantalising Italian cooking at Mezzaluna, international
cuisine at Le Vendome or indulge in award-winning
modern Chinese cuisine at glamorous Hakkasan.
Nowhere else can you enjoy the special feeling of
staying in an Arabian palace, set beside shimmering
blue waters, in the vibrant heart of the exciting capital
of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi. This historic
city of culture, founded in the 18th century, embodies
a vivid, colourful diversity truly a global hub. The
city is the home of the Formula 1 seasons highlight
Clockwise from top:

View from the
Emirates Palace
gardens; Le Vendome;
Mezlai restaurant;
BBQ Al Qasr.
race, the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, staged at the spectacular

Yas Marina Circuit, where you can also experience the
thrills of Ferrari World, the worlds largest indoor theme
park, and exciting Yas Waterworld, which spans an area
the size of twenty football pitches.
Time your visit for the headline-making Abu Dhabi
HSBC Golf Championship in the delightfully mild
sunshine of January and look out for the exceptional
Saadiyat Cultural District, with starchitect-designed
museums such as the Louvre and the Guggenheim
opening soon.
The Emirates Palace and Abu Dhabi uniquely royal.
For more information and reservations
please call 00 971 (0) 2 690 8888 or email
[email protected]
5DIHV6LQJDSRUHVLQFH
KATARA HOSPITALITY,
PRESERVING ICONIC TREASURES
There is much more to being a world-class hospitality
organisation than just owning, managing or developing
hotels. At Katara Hospitality, our appreciation for the past
powers our aspirations for the future. Decades of experience,
an innovative mindset and meticulous attention to detail enable

us to craft unique masterpieces that set new standards for
others to follow. With us, it is all about our boundless passion
for creating legendary hospitality, building on our heritage.
Katara Hospitality Building

Marina District, Lusail City, PO Box 2977 Doha, Qatar
T +974 4423 7777 F +974 4423 7860
[email protected] www.katarahospitality.com
KUWAITS IDYLLIC RESORT
Ideally located by the shores of the Arabian Gulf, Jumeirah Messilah Beach is the ideal getaway. This oasis
of hospitality features over 300 rooms and suites, the state-of-the-art Talise Spa, and a host of outstanding
leisure and dining choices. Its everything you could want in a seaside resort... and much more.
To make a reservation, call us at +965 2226 9600

or email us at [email protected]
For more information, visit jumeirah.com
/JumeirahMessilahBeach
@jumeirahmessilahbeach
@JumeirahMB
condenastjohansens.com
Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi
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THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world
THROW BAD HAIR OVERBOARD
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Designer Jenny Packham

has collaborated with gorgeous
Neom to create two limited edition
candles. Choose between Real
Luxury; a blend of lavender
and jasmine or Happiness, a
blend of white neroli and mimosa.
Ultimate candle 295, neom.com
EXPERIENCE
MAN SMELLS LIKE NEVER BEFORE

HURRAH FOR GUERLAIN WHO HAVE BOTTLED
THE IDEAL MAN! WELL NOT QUITE, BUT THEIR
LUXURY
Edmiston have partnered with hair colourist Josh

Wood to create Beauty on Board which offers the
nest hair and beauty services in the comfort
of your own yacht, wherever you are in the
world so theres no longer any excuse for
a bad hair day at sea.
edmiston.com
NEW FRAGRANCE LHOMME IDEAL WILL CERTAINLY

MAKE YOURS SMELL LIKE ONE. NOTES OF ALMOND
GIVE WARMTH WHILST CITRUS FRUITS ADD ZING
AND LEATHER ROUNDS IT OFF WITH IRRESISTIBLE
OUT OF THIS WORLD

Arent these new Cosmos
Charms from Astley Clarke
simply perfect? Adorned in
diamonds and in a variety
of sizes and either yellow
or rose gold they go with
everything and will carry
a picture of your favourite
person with you
wherever you go!
From 995, astleyclarke.com
s
e
v
lo
THE
LUXURY
Hurrah! Crme De La Mer has introduced

The Intensive Revitalising Mask to calm
and soothe with a heavenly fragrance
of grapefruit and mint whilst instantly
hydrating, leaving your skin energised
and ready for its next challenge.
105, cremedelamer.co.uk
House and Garden

This month sees the
launch of House &
Garden Fifties House,
a glamourous tour of
the 1950s house room
by room. The images
document a window
in time along with
providing inspiration
for fans of that era.
30, Conran Octopus,
octopusbooks.co.uk
QMS Medicosmetics get the kind

of results Ive always searched for;
dewy, refreshed skin with a glow.
The best facial post ight is the
Pure Oxygen Treatment which
channels ingredients into the skin
using its Oxygen Energy Applicator.
Your skin will be a source of envy,
even if youre fresh off the red eye.
150, 90 minutes,
qmsmedicosmetics.com
EXPERIENCE
THIS IS PERSONAL
HEALTH & BEAUTY
One of my favourite shopping destinations,

Heathrow, has just launched the worlds rst
personal shopping lounge in an airport
for all passengers ying from Heathrow
irrespective of their class of travel. A team
of experts speaking a combined 38
languages between them await
you. Visit heathrow.com/
personalshopper
Imagine 42,000 sq. ft. lled with

shoes from over 50 leading designers
and brands including Chanel, Dior,
Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik
and Louis Vuitton in a space complete
with velvet banquet lounge seating
and private shopping suites. Sounds
too good to be true? Youll be thrilled
to discover exactly that at the newly
opened Harrods Shoe Heaven on
their fth oor in Knightsbridge.
LUXURY
HEALTH & BEAUTY

Support
your hardearned tan with Perfectil
Plus Protan which
includes a copper-biotin
nutrient along with
B complex and carrot
extract to promote and
retain a gorgeous colour.
34.95, vitabiotics.com
LUXURY
Fill your living spaces with

the lush oral scent of White
Jasmine & Gardenia courtesy
of this gorgeous candle from
Cochine. Taking the sunooded gardens of Saigon
as inspiration, it combines
petals of jasmine, gardenia
and peony to transport
you instantly.
45, cochine.com
SUN PROTECTION, AND STYLE

Protecting your little ones from the harsh sun is always a
challenge. Thankfully Sunuva has come to the rescue with a
stylish range of UV protection swimwear which blocks up to
98% of the suns rays. This 'Savannah in Feather' outt perfectly
captures boho chic and will be the envy of many adults
as well as children. Savannah in Feather,
from 42, sunuva.com
Dream Destinations
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.
Middleham House offers a unique and

luxurious boutique English country house
experience, in the picturesque Yorkshire
town of Middleham. It is the perfect
destination for family holidays, fairy tale
weddings or a myriad of country pursuits.
Phone: 0207 733 5716.
Website: www.themiddlehamhouse.com
The Grifn Inn. A 16th century inn based

in the heart of Sussex. Offering thirteen
individually designed bedrooms, it
provides a haven of rest for any traveller.
Their renowned restaurant offers a
seasonal menu with locally sourced
produce and an extensive wine list.
www.thegriffininn.co.uk 01825 722890.
DEELIN MOR laid back luxury on

Irelands Atlantic coast in the Burren
GEOpark. Outdoor activities abound
(hike, surf, kayak, ride, climb) then return
to this beautiful house for turf fires,
sunken baths and candlelit suppers. A
secluded 300 acre organic farm, Deelin is
centrally located for a memorable holiday,
occasion or weekend getaway. 16002200/wk. www.deelinmor.com Tel: +35
365 708 9009.
NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
PORTIXOL, open all year and located

within walking distance to Palma. The
rooms are light, spacious, well-planned.
Recognized for its food, wines and views,
friendly and efficient service, laid back and
relaxed ambience with a cosmopolitan mix
of guests. Tel: +34 971 27 18 00.
Website: www.portixol.com
ESPLENDIDO, a modern vintage hotel, in
charming Puerto de Soller. Perfect spot
for lazy or active holidays. Enjoy the
outdoor pools and sunbeds, and the spa
which features an indoor pool, saunas and
fully-equipped gym. Bistro serves fresh
Mediterranean food. Sunset views from
the cocktail bar. Tel: +34 971 63 18 50.
Website: www.esplendidohotel.com
The Grand Hotel Atlantis Bahia Real
5*GL is situated directly on the beach,
close to Corralejo Natural Dune Park and
with wonderful views of the islands of
Lobos and Lanzarote.
Tel: +34 928 53 71 53, E-mail:
[email protected]
Web: www.atlantisbahiareal.com
Welcome to Galini Hotel and Villas, your
home away from home. Perched on the
imposing volcanic cliffs of Santorini, in one
of the most beautiful spots on the island,
Galini overlooks a cerulean blue immensity
with sweeping views of the volcano, the
caldera and the Aegean sea. We invite you,
our most welcomed guests, to discover our
little paradise. Visit: www.hotelgalini.gr or
Call: +30 22860 22095
Whitrigg House is a beautiful late 18th

century grade II listed property located in
the historic village of Clifton, in Cumbrias
Eden Valley. On the north side of the Lake
District National Park, this idyllic and friendly
home-from-home provides both comfort and
luxury, with the most charming personal
touches. Perfect for retreats or weekend
breaks. W: www.whitrigghouse.co.uk
T: 01768 895 077.
La Villa de Mazamet is a luxury B&B in

the heart of SW France. Spacious
bedrooms, swimming pool, table dhte
restaurant, Le Petit Spa. Vineyards,
medieval villages, mountain lakes within
15 minutes. Visit
www.villademazamet.com
or email [email protected]
for more information.
Set beside a stunning courtyard garden

Blenheim Cottage offers tranquil luxury.
With farmhouse character, a woodburner,
microbrewery and Master Butcher,
everything is in place for a cosy week
away. Quote Hamper for a complimentary
Oxfordshire food hamper (exp. 01/06/15)
www.oxfordcountrycottages.co.uk
+44 (0)7830 165830.
La Maison dUlysse. Escape the bustle of

modern life at this luxuriously renovated,
17th century farmhouse and now luxury
boutique hotel; A heady mix of exceptional
rooms, vineyard views, plentiful gardens
and fine food awaits you.
www.lamaisondulysse.com
+33 6 48 77 67 70
STONEHURST PLACE ATLANTA.

Located in the Midtown arts and business
district, this eco-friendly inn is close to the
Atlanta International Airport and many of
the citys best places to tour. Atlantas
crown jewel and global Top Ten Urban
Inn, Stonehurst Place is the perfect start
or end to a stylish US holiday or business
trip. The original 1896 architecture has
been meticulously updated and now
houses beautifully appointed en-suite
rooms and a sophisticated art collection.
Prices from 119 include gourmet
breakfast, all-day refreshments, parking
and wi-fi.
phone: +1 404 881 0722
email: [email protected]
www.StonehurstPlace.com
HOB KNOB is a 19th century gothic

revival home transformed into the islands
premier luxury boutique hotel. Whether
you stay in the 17-room Hob Knob Hotel
or prefer the exclusive privacy of your very
own private house, guests can expect
individualised hospitality, a gym and locally
sourced goods. Just a short walk from the
town and a stones throw from the
waterfront, rental bikes and even the
Hobknobber 27 ft. boat are at hand for
enjoying Marthas Vineyard to the full.
Visit www.hobknob.com or call
+11 800 6962723.
Evas Escape at the Gardenia Inn, San

Antonio, Texas, is located in the famous King
William Historic District, the house was built
circa 1905 and is tastefully furnished with
antiques and family treasures. Whether
enjoying a stroll along the Riverwalk or
soaking in one of the antique claw foot tubs,
a stay at Evas Escape will rejuvenate your
body and spirit. W: www.evasescape.com
T: +001 210 223 5875
Dream Destinations
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

SUNLUX collection hotels are positioned
in a Golden Triangle that links Cape
Towns landmark The Table Bay, within the
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; Sun Citys
The Palace of the Lost City, nestled in an
extinct volcanic crater surrounded by the
Pilanesburg big 5 nature reserve, and
Zambias gracious Royal Livingstone, set
against the stunning backdrop of
Livingstones Victoria Falls. Each part of
the luxury travellers journey is set to
uncover the subcontinents must-see
attractions. En route the new Maslow
Hotel, in Sandton City in Johannesburg,
one of Africas most popular shopping
destinations and theatre districts.
Phone: +27 11 780 7810
Website: www.suninternational.com/
HOT
LIST
THE 60 BEST
NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
Hotel dei Borgognoni. Privately owned,
this boutique hotel boasts a stellar
location between the Spanish Steps and
the Trevi Fountain in the historical centre
of Rome. Tranquility, atmosphere and
attention to detail it is the celebrity hotel
of choice.
Visit: www.hotelborgognoni.com
tel: +39 06 69941505.
HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a

luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart of
Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: [email protected]
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.
BOUTIQUE BEYEVI HOTEL in ALACATI,

TURKEY. Nestled in the Aegeans stylish
Alacati town, the Beyevi is an oasis of a
boutique hotel lovingly restored from old
village houses. Matching the towns allure of
vintage and contemporary style, it is the
ideal hideaway for relaxation with a beautiful
pool, gourmet cuisine and 15 stunning
rooms. E: [email protected] T: +90 533
602 1600, www.beyevi.com.tr
HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS
Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo.
Tel: +351 213 218 200
[email protected]
www.heritage.pt
Valencia Mindfulness Retreat, a beautiful

bed and breakfast situated in the centre
of Historic Valencia voted one of
TripAdvisors top 8 places to stay in
Spain. Indulge yourself with a visit to the
in the in-house massage room for the
ultimate pampering experience, or a quiet
moment in the early bird meditation room.
W: www.valenciamindfulnessreatreat.org
E: [email protected]
Dream Destinations
ASIA
A stay at Gangtey Goenpa Lodge offers

an insight into the ancient Kingdom of
Bhutan, which to this day remains one of
the worlds most mysterious and
undiscovered destinations in the world. To
experience unparalleled luxury, breathtaking views and Himalayan hot air balloon
flights visit www.easternsafaris.com or call
+975 1716 0666.
THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION

Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com
Hotel Dar Zitoune, a luxurious hotel with
14 beautiful Bungalows, 8 suites and 8
brand new deluxe tented rooms. With two
swimming pools, jacuzzi, a spa with
Hammam massage and a restaurant; it is
perfect for peace and luxury.
Tel: 00 (212) 528 55 11 41
website: www.darzitoune.ma
Dream Destinations
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA

THE HUKA RETREATS
www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E [email protected]
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E [email protected]
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.

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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals
Property Sales
For further information, please call 020 8246 6123

www.isolarossa.co.uk
25 years of experience renting hand-picked villas in Tuscany
+44 207 684 8884
tuscanynow.com
SORRENTO
tel. + 39 081 877 7111
[email protected] www.excelsiorvittoria.com
A perfect escape of 7 luxurious

villas situated on the top of the
caldera with panoramic views
of the Aegean Sea and the
unique sunset.
Aenaon Villas, Santorini, Greece
[email protected]
+30 6944353400
www.aenaonvillas.com
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
VILLA
MAGGONA
SRI LANKA
a serendipitous secret, hidden from the public eye, revealed to the discerning traveller
INCREDIBLE VILLAS
www.villamaggona.com
[email protected]
+94 777 486 866
PONGWE
Its not just what we know, its who we know. Every villa hand-picked
by experts. Deep local knowledge and devilishly good value.
01242 787 800
www.redsavannah.com
Handpicked villas
BEACH HOTEL
Zanzibar
WWW.PONGWE.COM
Honeymoon
in Paradise
Tuscany
in
Discover oustanding self catering

properties in Tuscany with one of the most
trusted family run agencies in the region.
Knowing and loving Tuscany since 1982.
Invitation to tuscany
020 8444 9500
www.invitationtotuscany.com
Luxury Villa & Spa

Spain
10 minutes from the sea
Accommodates up to 28
Ideal for big families, groups of friends, corporate retreats, weddings and events
Reservations tel. 0034 619 101 194 www.mastorroella.com
ATOL 10454
FRANCE ITALY SPAIN CARIBBEAN
On The Move...
To Mexico
Sleep in Heaven at Al Cielo Hotel

Situated on one of the most secluded beaches in the Riviera Maya
on the beachfront of Xpu Ha.
[email protected]
+529848409181 +52(1)9841679524 018006768590
www.alcielohotel.com
www.CasaAzulHotel.com
Tel: +52 (999) 925.50.16
Mrida, Yucatn
ART, DESIGN & COMFORT

HOTEL AZUL IS A DIFFERENT CONCEPT OF A BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN THE CITY OF OAXACA
+52 (951) 5010016
[email protected]
On The Move...
To Mexico
MRIDA.
OFF THE
BEATEN PATH.
Iglesia de la Tercera Orden Mrida
YUCATN - MXICO
rosasandxocolate.com
A MEMBER OF DESIGN HOTELS
TM
Chic Holidays in Paradise

Mexican Style
Mexico Citys first eco-friendly B&B
Phone: +52 55 5592 8452
www.elpatio77.com
La Casa del Atrio is a Boutique Hotel located in the heart of Historic Downtown
Quertaro. It features an art gallery, an antique shop and a brand new Spa with organic
and natural beauty treatments.
Awarded by Trip Advisor with: Traveller's Choice 2012, 2013 and 2014 & Certificate
of Excellence four years in a row (2011 - 2014)
Member of Circle of Quality, by the State Bureau of Tourism.
Ignacio Allende sur #15, Col. Centro, Quertaro

Tel: +52 (442) 212 6314 Email: [email protected]
[email protected]
Tel +(52)322 285 5500
www.alamandas.com
Skype: res.alamandas
Quote TRAVELLER 14 for an exclusive 5% discount off your booking, valid until October 2015.
On The Move...
LUXURY CORNISH COASTAL HOUSES
Traditional and exclusive group

accommodation in the north
west highlands
www.glencanisp-lodge.co.uk
Tel: 01571 844 100
INDIA BURMA LAOS CAMBODIA VIETNAM

THAILAND INDONESIA
Its not just what we know, its who we know. Intelligent travel
driven by expert knowledge and devilishly good value.
01242 787 800
www.redsavannah.com
ATOL 10454
INCREDIBLE JOURNEYS
www.stmawesretreats.co.uk
0800 088 66 22
THE B+B COLLECTION

Offers beautifully simplistic, contemporary interiors within elegant historic town
house properties in London, Edinburgh and Weymouth, Dorset. Design, quality and
comfort are all part of the philosophy where superb service and a warm welcome
always awaits.
This winter immerse yourself in a unique and individual B+B experience and
benefit from 20% off the Best Available Rate when booking 2 nights or more.
Visit www.bb-collection.com Click on your desired property offer page

and enter the promotion code WINTER2014 to belong to our
B+B community.
COTSWOLDS COUNTRY PUB

LUXURY ROOMS
FINE BRITISH CUISINE
Ilmington Road | Armscote | CV37 8DD
twitter.com/fuzzyduckpub | facebook.com/fuzzyduckarmscote | www.fuzzyduckarmscote.com
01608 682 635
On The Move...
To Portugal
On The Move...
Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual
villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1
/$1=$527(
%$/($5,&63
2578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$
Now in our 23rd year
Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our specialists
01954 261431
2787
or visit our website

www.vintagetravel.co.uk
V5643
Crewed Charter Yacht Specialists

Luxury yachts Worldwide.
Enjoy Christmas or New Years Eve
aboard a private yacht in the Caribbean.
Alternatively book a charter in the
Caribbean or Mediterranean for
the upcoming 2015 season.
www.blueplanetyachtcharters.co.uk
[email protected]
UK +44 (0)1233 226 300
STYLISH ECO FRIENDLY LUXURY VILLAS

IN COASTAL PORTUGAL
Casa Nova da Cruz, Sao Teotonio, Odemira 7630-000
M: 00351 912528505 F: 00351 283 958723
E: [email protected] W: www.herdadedanespereira.com
B&W
HERDADE DE CHAMIN
HOTEL RURAL
Discover the
luxurious side of
The Gambia
Unique and boutique hotels
Premium ight upgrades available
0845 330 2052

Gambia.co.uk
ABTA V5963 | ATOL 1866
A 4-star hotel just a short walk from

Piazza San Marco, Corte di Gabriela
awaits you with typical Venetian
hospitality in Venices most fascinating
and ancient district San Marco,
conveniently situated for easy access to
the Rialto, La Fenice theater and
Palazzo Grassi.
Rooms at the Corte di Gabriela feature
an elegant combination of
contemporary design and classic
Venetian styled furnishings, enhanced
by a discerning choice of fabrics,
delicate lighting effects and refinement
in every detail.
With no two rooms alike, the hotel
provides the most modern comforts
and amenities, seducing guests with
emotional ambiances, damask fabrics,
splendid table lamps and circular beds.
[email protected]
+39 041 5235077
www.bwhotelrural.pt/
+351 235 200 000 [email protected]
www.herdadedachamine.com
On The Move...
Snow Adventure
6580 ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG

AUSTRIA
+43(0) 5446 2804
[email protected]
WWW.MAIENSEE.COM
Holiday Whistler is dedicated to arranging the holiday of your dreams!

We offer a fantastic range of accommodation and lodging in Whistler
from ski-in, ski-out town homes and condos perched at the edge of
the slopes, for when you want to step out of your door and straight
into your skis, to luxurious log homes nestled in the trees, with woodburning fireplaces, private hot tubs and steam showers for the
ultimate in home comforts.
Email: [email protected] Tel: 0207 060 9360
www.holidaywhistler.com
Book your holiday by October 31st and get up to 67% off lift tickets
and kids ski free* CALL US NOW!
*Conditions apply
The Chalet, at 11 East

Off Peak weeks still available
Obergurgl's only boutique

ski in ski out chalet
for ten people
www.thechalet.com
Tel: +44 7768 456998 or +43 664 9280122
Why not give those muscles a break from skiing one afternoon and indulge in a massage or
pedicure in the comfort of your chalet.
We have over 10 years of experience bringing clients rejuvenating treatments by professional,
polite and punctual therapists.
Your destination is our destination.
t: +44 (0)7950 038353 e: [email protected]
w: destinationpamper.com
Val dIsere Meribel Courchevel Morzine
Exclusive and sustainable 6* luxury chalet in the heart of the Alps

www.chalet-n.com +43(0)5583 37 9 00
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VIEW WITH A ROOM
that sit side by side at the edge of the Cais Palaftico, a gathering of authentic, in-use shermens stilt-houses on the Sado Estuary.
This part of the Alentejo is just an hour south of Lisbon, but it couldnt feel more remote. Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus
(also responsible for the rental villa Casas na Areia in the nearby village of Carrasqueira) has created these minimalist boxes of wonder.
The rst, pictured, has a double bed wrapped in a crisp puff of white sheets, raised on a platform and protected by mosquito netting
(crucial in this sort of reedy, wetland environment), and a bathroom whose oor-to-ceiling wooden door can roll all the way open on its
castors for showering with an uninterrupted view of the marshes. In the next-door hut, a little kitchen is squirrelled away along the back
wall, clad, like everything else here, in sweet-smelling recycled timber. Deep, linen-covered Gervasoni Ghost armchairs by Paola Navone
are matched with the same designers side tables. Wi-Fi is nger-clicking swift, but here it would be more appropriate to take out the
kayak tied up at the end of the private pontoon, or visit the windswept beaches of Comporta a few minutes drive away. CECILE VAIARELLI
Stio da Carrasqueira, Comporta (+351 934 418316; www.cabanasnorio.com). Sleeps two, from about 160 including breakfast
PHOTOGRAPH: NELSON GARRIDO
WHERE ARE WE? COMPORTA, PORTUGAL

LOOKING AT THE BEDROOM OF CABANAS NO RIO
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PLEASE TURN THE PAGE TO VIEW SUPPLEMENT
WATCH SPECIAL
AROUND THE WORLD

IN 80 WATCHES
Photograph: Ernest H. Brooks II, Blue in Profile , Edition Fifty Fathoms 2008
COMING SOON
Blancpain Boutique opening on New Bond Street
MISSION PARTNER OF
Pristine Seas Expeditions
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES
ABU DHABI BEIJING CANNES DUBAI EKATERINBURG GENEVA HONG KONG MACAU
MADRID MANAMA MOSCOW MUNICH NEW YORK PARIS SEOUL SHANGHAI SINGAPORE TAIPEI TOKYO ZURICH
www.blancpain.com
AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 WATCHES
Were about to be hit with the iWatch, the hybrid love child of the mobile phone and digital
watch, and rather tellingly Apple has hired a senior sales director from TAG Heuer, presumably
to rub a little Swiss-made luxury onto the proceedings. Undoubtedly with the iWatch, the battery
will be king, as opposed to the traditional power source of human kinetic energy used by Swiss
watchmakers. Its bound to be a runaway success, but over the course of putting this magazine
together, it has become clear to me that the case for owning a proper timepiece is now stronger
than ever. A few months ago, I saw a lm made by one of the big watch companies, a sort of arty
black-and-white documentary about its manufacturing (the air-conditioning was on full-blast in the
private screening room Im convinced it was to keep everyone awake), and my abiding memory
is of a pretty young worker recounting her endless amazement at the exact moment she would give life to an
arrangement of previously inanimate pieces of metal. I think she compared a ticking watch to a ticking heart, which is
an old clich I know, but in that moment I shared her awe and went a bit goose-bumpy (although, that could have been
the air-con). Then in early summer, a visit to the Cartier watch factory left me with two lasting impressions. Firstly, the
huge industrial machines drilling whole watch cases out of steel rods it was all really noisy, with jets of water and oil
and computer-guided arms. And secondly, the counter-point: a lever-arch le containing the shape of every watch hand
Cartier has ever made, each one stuck on a small card and slotted into clear plastic holders, the pieces of metal only a
few millimetres long and a whisker thick. There were hundreds and hundreds of them stamped out and then heated by
hand to the exact oxidising temperature that turned them the perfect Cartier blue. It would be possible to ll this
magazine 10 times over with stories of these earnest and prolonged and industrious efforts, but instead weve cast the
net a little wider and come at it from a suitably travel angle. You might think this would mean 43 pages dedicated to
Switzerland, but thankfully the watch industry is well-tuned into the fact that something as personal and luxurious as a
ne watch should evoke stories from unexpected places.
Jessica Diamond
WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR
Pei-Ru Keh
Writer, Great Britain (page 17)
Originally from Singapore,
Pei-Ru spent seven years in
London before moving to
Brooklyn and has travelled
to Panama, Riga, Cairo, Beijing,
Mumbai and Seoul, all in
the name of work. She is the
New York editor of Wallpaper
and is constantly on the lookout
for the next inspiring thing.
Andy Barter Photographer,

Switzerland (page 30)
Although based in London,
Andy is often required to swap
his studio for New York, Paris
and Milan when shooting for
magazines including Vogue and
Wired. But his mind is drawn
back to places such as Buenos
Aires and Istanbul where being
a photographer is a particularly
stimulating experience.
Grainne McBride
Robin Swithinbank
Writer, Indonesia (page 36)

After stints living in Chicago,
Dublin and Sydney, Grainne has
visited Jamaica, South-east
Asia and her native County
Kerry for this magazine. It took
two days to get to far-ung
Manado in Indonesia, but time
seemed to slow right down as
soon as I landed and was hit
with the steamy, equatorial air.
Writer, Germany (page 46)

A specialist watch journalist
for the past decade, Robin
edits the magazine Calibre
and contributes regularly to
the Financial Times and The
Times. He makes at least a
dozen visits to Switzerland
each year, and his job has
also taken him to China, Italy,
Germany and France.
ON THE COVER: ESCALE WORLDTIME IN WHITE GOLD, WITH MINIATURE HAND-PAINTING ON THE CITY DISC AND A BLACK ALLIGATOR STRAP, 40,000, LOUIS VUITTON (WWW.LOUISVUITTON.CO.UK)
4 Watch Special October 2014
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANDY BARTER
CONTRIBUTORS
Didier Gourdon
Ladies Automatic RM 07-01
KITTY HAWK
HIGH FLYER
PHOTOGRAPH: RA/LEBRECHT MUSIC & ARTS
It was on 17 December 1903 that the

Wright brothers ew the rst controlled
powered aircraft, along the dunes of Kitty
Hawk beach, North Carolina. After years
of failed attempts, their achievement
was staggering, considering they hadnt
graduated from high school and were
both bicycle mechanics by trade. The
fragile Wright Flyers wings were covered
in cotton muslin, hand-stitched in place
by Wilbur Wright, and before the plane
was shipped to the Science Museum in
London in 1928, the fabric was changed
in anticipation of its public display. The
original muslin remained with the Wright
family, its historical signicance recognised
when a tiny scrap was sewn into Neil
Armstrongs spacesuit. Brothers Nick and
Giles English, who founded British watch
company Bremont in 2002, have their
own history in aviation their father was
an RAF pilot and they have been ying
planes all their lives. How apt, then, that
they managed to acquire a square of the
original fabric from Amanda Wright Lane,
great grand-niece of Wilbur and Orville.
Wright Lane loved what Bremont had
done in the past, incorporating historically
signicant materials into its watches
such as the EP120 with pieces of a 1942
Spitre, and 2013s Codebreaker, featuring
original Bletchley Park artefacts. In
the Wright Flyer watch, limited to a run
of 450, a fragment of the fabric is set
between two pieces of glass on the
winding rotor, visible through the back
of the timepiece. Nick describes the
collaboration in suitably hyperbolic terms:
If youd said to me a year ago that this
would happen, I wouldnt have believed
you. What the Wright brothers achieved
has had a huge impact on everyones life,
so to be able to put a piece of that plane
in our watches is hard to beat, in fact
Im not sure we can in aviation terms,
for us, its the Holy Grail. JD
WHITE GOLD AND ALLIGATOR

WRIGHT FLYER LIMITED EDITION, POA,
BREMONT (WWW.BREMONT.COM),
CONTAINING A PIECE OF FABRIC FROM
THE PLANES ORIGINAL WING
October 2014 Watch Special 7
NEW YORK
RIGHT: DIAMOND AND WHITE GOLD

867 DIAMOND, 113,000 RALPH
LAUREN (WWW.RALPH LAUREN
WATCHES.COM). FAR RIGHT: WHITE
GOLD AND ALLIGATOR AVENUE
CLASSIC, POA, HARRY WINSTON
(WWW.HARRYWINSTON.COM)
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN CAMERON/ALAMY; BILL W ISSER/IMAGE BRIEF;

ELLEN FISCH/IMAGE BRIEF; DANIEL SCHWABE/IMAG E BRIEF; DAVID SUNDBERG/ESTO
JAZZ HANDS
The watch industry is constantly looking forward, striving for
new ways to make timepieces more accurate, more durable,
more resilient and precise, with longer power reserves,
thinner cases and more complications and all this
wrapped up in a space no bigger than the top of your
wrist. Although the ladies watch market is as susceptible
to this technological trend as the mens, some companies
thankfully continue to steer a more retro course,
producing beautiful pieces of jewellery that have one
eye rmly on the past. Harry Winston and Ralph
Lauren are two such names presenting
collections inspired by the Art Deco era in
New York, when a slimline bejewelled cocktail
watch was as essential as a cigarette holder
or a cloche hat. Both also reference their
grandiose Manhattan agship stores as design
inspirations, Harry Winston echoing, for
example, the arches of its 5th Avenue address
at 12 and 6 oclock on the cases of the
Avenue Collection. The Ralph Lauren
867 Diamond, named after its 867 Madison
Avenue boutique, comprises more than
400 geometrically set diamonds in this years
sharpest, most evocative, most design-focused
jewellery watch. Its powered by the RL430 in-house
calibre (while the Harry Winston collection is quartz),
but really, with watches this pretty, who cares? JD
THE NORTH POLE

MAGNETIC
ATTRACTION
As much as most watch brands would like to
ignore it, the vintage market is as buoyant as
ever, with websites such as Watch Finder
reporting strong sales, and boutiques including
Mayfairs Watch Club and Somlo Antiques
successfully marketing a slice of yesteryear. As
a nice counterpoint to a lot of current wrist
posturing, the simpler, more elegant style
favoured during the 1950s and 1960s is
particularly popular. Realising this, JaegerLeCoultre has raided its archives for a major
relaunch. The Geophysic was rst presented
to the world in 1958 to mark the International
Geophysical Year one of those optimistic,
pan-global programmes of scientic exploration
designed to make everyone forget they were
in the grips of the Cold War. As part of the
programme the commander of the nuclear
submarine USS Nautilus undertook an
extraordinary three-day journey from the
Pacic to the Atlantic, taking the most direct
route, which meant travelling under the ice
sheet covering the Arctic. On the successful
completion of his mission he was given a
Geophysic watch to mark his achievement.
This years model shares the originals patented
anti-shock system and soft iron inner case to
protect the movement from the effects of
magnetism. Which would be very useful if
you were travelling so close to the North Pole.
If that trip seems a long way off, these days
it has more pragmatic uses and will protect
your timepiece from any exposure to
magnetised objects such as computers,
tablets and mobile phones. JD
PHOTOGRAPH: NICK COBBING
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE GEOPHYSIC

1958 IN ROSE GOLD AND ALLIGATOR,
13,900; STAINLESS STEEL AND ALLIGATOR,
6,350; AND PLATINUM AND ALLIGATOR,
21,700, ALL JAEGER-LECOULTRE
(WWW. JAEGER-LECOULTRE.COM)
GREAT BRITAIN
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILLIP CAPPER
HOWZAT FOR TOP-NOTCH?

The components of a mechanical watch are usually made by several different people and then
nally assembled by one. Watchmaker Roger W Smith is among only a few worldwide who create
and put together every component by hand, which he does in a small workshop on the Isle
of Man. He learnt his craft from the late Dr George Daniels, with whom he was an apprentice.
Such fastidiousness does not make it a quick process (he produces approximately 10 watches
per year), but it ensures that his timepieces are some of the most desirable in the world.
It comes as no surprise then that the organisers of the Great Britain campaign, designed
to showcase the very best of what Britain has to offer, asked Smith to produce a watch
that the Prime Minister could take overseas as the ultimate example of this countrys
craftsmanship. The resulting platinum timepiece houses the Daniels Co-axial escapement,
invented by Daniels in the 1970s and now adopted by Omega on a large commercial scale.
The solid-silver dial, made of 34 separate components, is decorated with three engineturned motifs that form the pattern of the Union Jack. And if all of this isnt making you
burst with patriotic pride, the presentation box is made by Linley from English oak, with
another Union Flag (this time inlaid) on the lid. Catch a glimpse of it at the Watch Club in
the Royal Arcade in Mayfair, London which is curating it for the duration of the campaign.
More ag waving comes from Vacheron Constantin, which has made an exceptional oneoff watch to mark the opening of its Bond Street boutique. The Patrimony Traditionnelle
calibre 2755 London Edition has a hand-guilloch dial featuring a motif based on the
Union Jack, along with a movement that contains 602 parts which power a trio of Haute
Horlogerie complications: a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater.
Were also rather taken by the box, crafted out of rare brown oak from the Althorp estate
by furniture makers Method Studio. A chance meeting between the Swiss watchmakers and
Method at Crafted 2013 spawned the collaboration, and the furniture company lavished the
box with the same amount of attention as Vacherons watchmakers did the timepiece. This
included fuming the oak with ammonia to accelerate the ageing process by 400 years and
create its deep-chocolate colour. Specialist watch tools are housed in individual drawers that
run on brass sliders, all lockable with a British-made solid-brass lock. JD
FROM TOP: TRADITIONNELLE LONDON EDITION

WATCH IN PINK GOLD WITH ALLIGATOR STRAP,
542,450, VACHERON CONSTANTIN (WWW.
VACHERON-CONSTANTIN.COM). THE CUSTOM-MADE
BOX BY METHOD STUDIO. GREAT BRITAIN WATCH IN
PLATINUM WITH A SILVER GUILLOCHE DIAL, 180,000,
ROGER W SMITH FOR THE GREAT BRITAIN CAMPAIGN
(WWW.RWSMITHWATCHES.COM), WATCH TEMPORARILY
CURATED AT WATCH CLUB (WWW.WATCHCLUB.
COM). THE PRESENTATION BOX BY LINLEY
GREAT BRITAIN
DOUBLE AGENTS
One assumes that when watch companies and Hollywood

hook up, a substantial monetary deal is done to pay for
signicant product placement and a sprinkling of lmic
glamour. So the appearance of a new Bremont timepiece
in Matthew Vaughns hotly anticipated lm Kingsman: The
Secret Service with no nancial exchange seems all the
more charming and old-school in this world of canny brand
exposure. Vaughn, himself a big watch collector and stickler
for detail, wanted a label that would t well with the lms
British secret service theme and, in the end, several factors
ensured that Bremont was the chosen one. It was tting that
a lm about recruiting into the elite tier of special agents,
which was shot around London and stars Michael Caine
and Colin Firth (both pictured wearing the watch made for
the lm), should settle for a maker with such strong ties
to the military. In the past, Bremont has provided timepieces
for squadrons in the UK and USA. And then a chance visit
by Vaughn to the Bremont shop on South Audley Street in
Mayfair (he was visiting gun- and rie-makers Purdey and
popped across the road to take a look) familiarised him
with the label and he liked what he saw. Vaughn was also
looking for an engineered watch: a timepiece that wasnt
faddy or designed with trends in mind, again a good t for
the multi-purpose, tooled functionality the watches would
have in the lm. Nick English, Bremonts co-founder (pictured
above right), was given a small part in the lm a blinkand-youll-miss-it moment, as he describes it. They were
very sweet to ask me, he says. I was only there for one day
but the amount of effort and detail that went into the
production was extraordinary. And hilariously, they gave me
a very smart, very short haircut usually my wife cuts it
at home with the kitchen scissors. JD
Kingsman: The Secret Service is released in February 2015.
Bremonts Kingsman watches will go on sale in January
Its not unusual for jewellery houses to lay themselves bare: Bulgari, Van Cleef &
Arpels and Cartier have all recently held major retrospective exhibitions. Watch houses
are more secretive, reserved and conservative (if thats possible). But this could
change when Swiss granddaddy Patek Philippe unveils its Watch Art Grand Exhibition
in London next May. Held at the Saatchi Gallery, the show is a rare opportunity to
understand the expertise that has allowed Patek Philippe to remain the last privately
owned family watch company in Geneva. Spanning its 175-year history, while also
highlighting its air (and obsession) for high-precision manufacturing, the exhibition
will chart the brands lineage and legacy in an unconventional format. In addition to
rare timepieces, lms and a selection from the current collection, all laid out over
12 rooms, it will feature watch-making demonstrations and artisans working on-site to
give a rst-hand look at the inner workings of the company. The 2,200-square-feet
space will contain more than 400 timepieces and the immersive experience will be
like visiting Patek Philippes workshops in Geneva, its museum (the citys biggest
attraction) and its historical headquarters on rue du Rhne, an aspect that the label is
keen to share with watch acionados and the curious alike. To mark the houses
175th-anniversary celebrations, Watch Art Grand Exhibition will also include a collection
of commemorative pieces. In an industry where traditional techniques and know-how
are guarded with great secrecy, this comprehensive show promises to open up Pateks
hidden world of timekeeping. PEI-RU KEH
The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition runs from 27 May to 7 June 2015
at the Saatchi Gallery, London. Admission is free
PHOTOGRAPHS: 20TH CENTURY FOX
SHOW AND TELL
FROM TOP: SPECIAL EDITION

KINGSMAN ROSE GOLD,
14,495; KINGSMAN DLC, 4,395,
BOTH BREMONT (WWW.
BREMONT.COM)
FROM FAR LEFT: 5035G

ANNUAL CALENDAR STRAP
WATCH IN WHITE GOLD;
CALATRAVA STRAP WATCH
IN WHITE GOLD; HENRY
GRAVES SUPER COMPLICATION
POCKET WATCH, ALL VINTAGE
PATEK PHILIPPE (WWW.
PATEK.COM)
GREAT BRITAIN
PHOTOGRAPH: DUSTIN PENMAN/IMAGEBRIEF
NEW SHOPS ON THE BLOCK

Londons Mayfair has always been a 24-carat hotspot
for jewellery, but in the past few years the area has
become even more polished as watch houses set up
shop on their own. Recent settlers include Breitling,
Vacheron Constantin, Parmigiani Fleurier, Breguet
and Bremont heres a rundown of the next ones
to make a beeline for. By Pei-Ru Keh
IWC
RECORD BREAKER
There has been lots of chatter this year
about watch brands extending their price
ranges, both up and down. In an increasingly
crowded middle market, one tactic is to offer
a collection with a lower price point (thereby
scooping up the pre-Tag/Omega crowd)
but also crown the entire offering with the
horological equivalent of a cherry on top: a
novelty complication that allows for a certain
amount of watchmaking muscle-exing while
demonstrating the manufacturers know-how.
This is exactly what the Clifton 1892 Flying
Tourbillon is for Baume & Mercier. Its also a
good opportunity for the company to remind
everyone of its watchmaking past, having been
founded in 1830. This is where Londons Kew
enters into the story. In the late 19th century,
four observatories in Europe (the other three,
unsurprisingly, in Switzerland) were used to
test the accuracy of watches, barometers,
thermometers and sextants, a job that is today
largely carried out by the COSC, an
independent Swiss institute devoted to precision.
In 1892 Baume & Mercier submitted its
chronograph tourbillon pocket watch for
vigorous testing at Kew Observatory and
achieved 91.9 marks out of 100 the
highest accuracy rating ever seen at the
time. The score went unbeaten for 10
years, which seems remarkable when
you consider the number of watch
manufacturers working away to
achieve what is their primary
concern. The Clifton 1892 Flying
Tourbillon pays tribute to this
feat, with a 45.5mm red-gold
case and a silver-coloured dial.
And as the brand pushes forward
with the rest of its contemporary
Clifton range and launches the
Promesse collection for women, its
a nice reminder that it has rm
(and impressive) foundations. JD
FROM ABOVE: THE 1892 CHRONOGRAPH
WITH TOURBILLON MOVEMENT FROM THE
BAUME & MERCIER MUSEUM COLLECTION.
CLIFTON 1892 FLYING TOURBILLON IN
RED GOLD, 39,000, BAUME & MERCIER
(WWW.BAUME-ET-MERCIER.COM)
An address on Bond Street in London might signal certain notions

of grandeur, but for IWC Schaffhausen the associations go much deeper.
The sleek Swiss watchmaker has not only chosen to open its rst
British boutique here for obvious reasons, but also to celebrate a new
partnership with the British Film Institute. The 146-year-old company
has been appointed time partner for the BFIs London Film Festival and
the new store is very close to the events ofcial hotel, The May Fair. Its
passion for cinema reects the storytelling approach it takes when
creating its watches. With doors opening this winter, the agship space
is set to be an immersive experience for IWC devotees and will also
exclusively present its complete collection in the UK for the rst
time. Make sure to check out the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital
Date-Month, of which only 50 have been made.
138 New Bond Street, London. www.iwc.com
RICHARD MILLE
It might not have the centuries of history that most Swiss watch houses
do, but Richard Mille more than makes up for this with a consistent
pursuit of innovation. Since its founding in 2001, it has become renowned
for its technical supremacy, as well as the futuristic good looks of its
watches. The brand now has more than 60 models, so its only apt that it
should launch a agship boutique to properly showcase its wares.
Scheduled to open at the end of this year, the Richard Mille shop will
cover 1,350 square feet on Mount Street. The state-of-the-art store
promises to be an impressive environment for its avant-garde timepieces,
with interiors crafted from leather, walnut, steel and oating glass.
Highlights will include the recently launched ladies collection, which
features the automatic RM 07-01, with a skeletonised movement and
rose-gold bracelet, along with plenty of limited editions and unique pieces.
90 Mount Street, London. www.richardmille.com
WILLIAM & SON

This brand has been a proponent of handcrafted luxury since William
Asprey rst opened on Londons Mount Street in 1999. After 16 years
at that address, the company will move to a new home on Bruton
Street in the middle of 2015. The new building, with 8,600 square feet
of retail space, will bring William & Sons eclectic offering of watches,
jewellery, silver, casual clothing and shotguns, along with its in-house
design studio, all under one roof. Traditional elements plush carpet,
wood and a dramatic (albeit, modern) chandelier will be mixed with
contemporary features such as bespoke storage and display cases. The
dynamic interiors come courtesy of Shed, the young rm that has
previously worked with Prada and Harrods, and which was behind the
redesign of William & Sons Mount Street shop. On the time-keeping
front, the company will add the Swiss makers Ludovic Ballouard (a
UK exclusive for the boutique) and Girard-Perregaux to its stable of
niche watch brands, which already includes exclusive names such as
FP Journe, Charles Oudin, Laurent Ferrier, Beva and De Bethune.
34 Bruton Street, London. www.williamandson.com
GREAT BRITAIN
THE JEWELS IN THE CROWN

Laurence Graff started his career as an apprentice in
Londons Hatton Garden in the 1950s. By 1960 he had
founded Graff Diamonds, and today it has 46 shops worldwide.
A huge number of hours are spent creating one-off jewellery
watches such as this, only ve of which leave the London workshop
each year. What are the secrets behind the showstopper?
There are 390 diamonds set in

this watch (fancy and roundcut), totalling 28.54 carats.
The watch took Graffs design

director Anne-Eva Geffroy
two weeks to conceive.
The watch travelled

1,200 miles from London to
Geneva to have its movement
tted in Switzerland.
More than 70 craftsmen

work in the Graff Mayfair
workshop, making it the
largest of its type in London.
Of these, four were involved
in the watchs creation. Many
of Graffs craftsmen have had
long service with the company
one staff member has worked
there for over 39 years.
The watch is polished by

hand for 2,880 minutes to
ensure each diamond faade
and exposed metal setting
is awless. During the
assembly process it goes
back to the polisher on
ve separate occasions.
There are 20 rubies

(pear, marquise and
round-cut), totalling
15.64 carats.
There are 68 grams of white

gold used in the settings
and watch case.
A nal inspection is carried

out by Michel Pitteloud, CEO
of Graff Luxury Watches
it takes him around one
hour to inspect and sign off
each unique timepiece. JD
It took approximately
1,350 man-hours to create
from the initial design
stage to being ready to leave
the workshop.
RUBY-AND-DIAMOND
WATCH, POA, GRAFF (WWW.
GRAFFDIAMONDS.COM).
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
Once the design is received

by the workshop, the details
are input into a CAD
programme. From there,
individual wax models are
made in this instance 30
models were created, each
representing a different piece
or section of the watch.
ST BARTHS
SHOT AT LA BANANE, A
PRIVATE VILLA ON ST BARTHS
FOLLOW THE
SMART CREW
PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD PHIBBS
Every year this super-stylish Caribbean

island hosts one of the worlds most thrilling
yacht races. Jessica Diamond tests out her
sea legs with watchmaker Richard Mille
Something is amiss in the ocean off St Barths. Were
skidding over the waves in Jolt 2, a 45ft Baltic one-off
racing yacht owned by Peter Harrison, CEO of Richard
Mille Europe, clamouring to reach the start line on day
three of Les Voiles de Saint Barth regatta, and our skipper
points starboard at a scene unfolding on the horizon. The
view is eeting as the swell lifts us up and down; we
see it and then dont and then see it and then dont, the
visibility not helped by sheets of spray that are kicked
up as the bow smacks down on the water. Eight sailors
are sitting on top of what appears to be a giant ironing
board, so alien and puzzling is the shape, their legs bent
over the side of the structure like Lego men. In fact, we
are looking at a boat with no mast. Conditions are so
brisk, with gusts blowing at close to 25 knots, that it has
splintered and snapped two metres above the deck like
a storm-damaged branch, all $1million of titanium, rigging
and sails severed by the power of the wind, and now
lying at the bottom of the sea. Two minutes later, the
call comes for all guests on board our yacht to put on
life jackets and prepare to go below deck. Were also told
ST BARTHS
to be prepared for the boat to skid and

end up on its side. Its perfectly normal and
the crew will deal with it, says the skipper, a
straight-talking Kiwi called Campbell Field
with an impressive pedigree (his father
is the veteran round-the-world sailor Ross
Field). I start to wonder what Ive got myself
into. And then the message comes over the
radio the race has been abandoned. Its
too windy and too dangerous to continue,
and we return to the harbour.
Now in its fth year, Les Voiles de Saint Barth
is not a gentle cruise around the Caribbean.
Initially it attracted 23 boats in 2010, this year
the number rose to more than 70 and
organisers expect the maximum capacity of
80 to be reached next year. The in-shore
conditions (sailing within the sight of land), the
potential for wind speeds of 25 knots (thats
very fast) and the accompanying huge swell
make it hugely exciting for even the most
experienced yachtsmen. Fifteen of the worlds

top 30 sailors participated in Les Voiles 2014.
Ex-Olympians, Americas Cup and Volvo
Ocean Race participants have all taken part,
along with semi-professionals who capably make
up the numbers. This year, Jolt 2s crew is a
mix of professionals and part-timers who split
their schedules between events such as Les
Voiles and sailing-related jobs, including yacht
brokerage and sail making, and are able to dip
in and out of this rareed subculture. The
full-time professionals have spent the winter
crewing in the Caribbean and will shortly
transfer to the Mediterranean where they are
recruited to join boats, largely on a word-ofmouth basis. How does it work? I ask them. What
do your girlfriends back at home think? All of
them x me with unblinking stares, Our girlfriends
are very understanding.
Only eight miles across with virtually no crime,
St Barths draws the extraordinarily wealthy with
its pared-down, linen-and-Tods-loafer scene

(accessorised with a 60,000 watch) and the
opportunity to party in that devil-may-care
way that comes with unlimited funds. Richard
Mille, sponsors of the regatta since its inception,
hosts a lunch party at Nikki Beach on a nonracing day, and boat owners and crew consume
vast salmanazars of ros (so heavy the waiters
rest them on their shoulders to pour) and
endless platters of sushi and freshly grilled
lobster. The dancing on tables is only cut short
by the 7pm rule set by Eden Rock hotel next
door, which is keen to protect guests looking for
a more genteel experience.
The large number of private villas to rent on
the island is also key to the events success,
enabling boat owners to bring their families and
entertain on a grand scale. I am invited to
several dinners at Villa Wickie, a short walk up
the hill from the capital, Gustavia, which is rented
for the week by the convivial and sailing-mad
PHOTOGRAPHS: SLIM AARONS/GETTY IMAGES; SEAN GLEASON;

KEYSTONE-FRANCE/GAMMA-KEYSTONE VIA GETTY IMAGES;
RICHARD PHIBBS/PATRIC SHAW/TRUNK ARCHIVE; TIM WRIGHT
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE:

FLAMANDS BEACH ON ST BARTHS;
FASHIONABLE SCENES ON THE
ISLAND; A YACHT OFF ST BARTHS;
ACTORS ROMY SCHNEIDER,
FRANCOISE ARNOUL AND ALAIN
DELON AT EDEN ROCK IN 1959;
SAILING OFF THE COAST; YACHTS
IN THE VOILES DE SAINT BARTH; A
CREW MEMBER IN THE RACE
WEARING A RICHARD MILLE
DIVERS WATCH
Harrison. Its faade is all shuttered colonialDutch splendour, its rear a new Mies van der
Rohe-style pavilion opening out onto an
enormous terrace, innity pool and 180-degree
ocean views. One night as we dine on the
terrace, a 100ft yacht pulls up and anchors in
the harbour, illuminating its mast like a thin pen
line of white drawn into the blackness.
As the week draws to a close so do the
festivities. A serious cash injection from Richard
Milles sponsorship has insured extensive
exposure for the brand, which is labelled on all
the boats and logoed at parties, concerts and
rework displays. But the best advertising? The
Jolt 2 crew have been wearing Richard Mille
watches all week and suddenly it makes sense.
The synergy between the complications of the
timepieces and the technicalities of sailing are
perfectly aligned, along with the extensive use
of carbon bre and titanium (anti-corrosive,
strong and light-weight) in both disciplines. And
aesthetically the large, futuristic designs and

acid-bright colours of the watches are well
matched to the crews tanned wrists, thrown into
sharp relief by the intense Caribbean sun. I try
not to stare, but watches in such perfect context
are compelling. Business is brisk, too. The inux
of boat owners to the island signals an upturn in
luxury shopping; bijoux branches of Cartier,
Chopard and Louis Vuitton along Gustavias tiny
high street are all full of customers, not just
holiday browsers, and the owner of
Diamond Genesis, the one Richard Mille
outlet on the island, is delighted with
how the week has gone. Harrison is
also thrilled: on the nal day of racing
Jolt 2 comes third in its category. At
the prize-giving ceremony the overall
winner of the Maxi class is presented
with an RM 028 Edition Voiles de Saint
Barth in titanium. Not bad for ve
days of sailing in the sunshine.
FROM ABOVE: RM 61-01

YOHAN BLAKE WATCH WITH
TZP-N CASE, 85,000; RM 60-01
REGATTA AUTOMATIC FLYBACK
CHRONOGRAPH WITH
TITANIUM CASE, 111,500,
BOTH RICHARD MILLE
(WWW.RICHARDMILLE.COM).
MEXICO
LEFT: DIAMOND,
EMERALD, YELLOWGOLD, ENAMEL AND
ALLIGATOR LES
INDOMPTABLES DE
CARTIER CROCODILE
DECOR BROOCH
WATCH, POA,
CARTIER (WWW.
CARTIER.CO.UK).
BELOW: A CARTIER
SNAKE NECKLACE
BOUGHT BY MARIA
FELIX, LEFT, IN 1968
LOOK SNAPPY
The relationship between the big jewellery
houses and their customers is one of
symbiosis. Particularly during the second half
of the last century, those able to indulge in
expensive pieces in turn enriched the heritage
of Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany and Van Cleef &
Arpels with their glamorous and often
eccentric associations. Elizabeth Taylor, the
Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of
Monaco, the Indian maharajas and the shahs
of Iran are just some of those linked to a
time when jewels were bought with grand
gestures and worn publicly in a heady mix
of Hollywood glamour, high society and
enormous Technicolor gems. With todays
hush-hush commissions it seems unlikely
that this era will ever be repeated, and
houses hold tight to their legacy, knowing
that todays customers bask in its radiance.
Van Cleef s California Rverie collection and
Diva from Bulgari draw on the 1950s and
1960s, while Tiffanys Schlumberger jewels
are direct lifts from its archives. And this
year Cartier celebrates the 1970s, when
Mexican lm star Mara Flix, pictured,
commissioned a necklace made from two
entwined crocodiles.The story goes that
she took a live baby reptile to the Cartier
workshops for the craftsmen to model
the perfect likeness. And then left it there.
The Indomptables de Cartier Crocodile
Decor watch features a gold crocodile,
set with 541 diamonds and two emerald
eyes, which can also be worn as a
brooch. Cartier are producing only 50,
so snap one up quickly. JD
SCOTTS EXPEDITION
TO THE SOUTH POLE.
BEGUN 1910.
COMPLETED 2014.
On January 17th 1912, after a journey of
900 miles, Captain Robert Falcon Scott
reached the South Pole with his four
companions: Edgar Evans, Lawrence Titus
Oates, Henry Bowers and Edward Wilson.
But any elation the men felt quickly turned
to despair. They were not, as theyd hoped,
the first. A Norwegian team, led by Roald
Amundsen, had beaten them by 34 days.
The Pole wrote Scott in his diary, but
under very different circumstances from
those expected. Great God! This is an awful
place and terrible enough to have laboured
to it without the reward of priority.
Already in low spirits, their return journey
was blighted by poor luck and poor weather.
Evans fell badly on the ice, suffering severe
concussion. He collapsed and died near the
bottom of the Beardmore Glacier on
February 17th.
In the days that followed, the four remaining
men had to endure some of the most
extreme conditions ever recorded in the
region. Oates, crippled by frostbite and
slowing the teams progress, famously
walked out of the tent to his death in order
to save his comrades.
His sacrifice was in vain. By March 22nd,
Scott, Bowers and Wilson, unable to cover
the necessary distances in the appalling
weather, had only two days food left, yet
were still three days from the next depot.
Then a blizzard descended, trapping them
in their tent. With all hope gone, the three
men lay down and waited for the end.
Had we lived wrote Scott, I should have
had a tale to tell of the hardihood, endurance
and courage of my companions which would
have stirred the heart of every Englishman.
These rough notes, and our dead bodies,
must tell the tale.
They died just eleven miles short of their
destination. And for more than a century,
nobody had ever attempted to complete
the entire 1,795 mile route of Captain
Scotts Terra Nova expedition.
This year, however, British explorers
Ben Saunders and Tarka LHerpiniere
successfully walked the entire distance.
Over 105 gruelling days, in temperatures
as low as minus 45 degrees, and with
each man dragging 200kg of supplies, the
pair set a new record for the longest polar
journey on foot.
Both men wore Bremont Terra Nova
chronometers outside their jackets
throughout the trek.
The Terra Nova has a specially-oiled
mechanical movement that can function at
sub-zero temperatures, when lesser watches
would, quite literally, freeze.
(Scott used mechanical watches on his
expedition and one hundred years later a
mechanical watch is still the best tool in
extreme conditions.)
The Terra Nova is built from aircraft-grade
titanium, which makes it remarkably
tough, and crucially, exceptionally light.
On expeditions like this says Saunders,
every gram counts.
Like all Bremont timepieces, the Terra Nova is
tested and certified by none other than COSC,
the official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
The Terra Nova is available now in a strictly
limited edition of 300. And, unlike Ben and
Tarka, to get yours you need venture no
further than your nearest Bremont stockist.
ITALY
VROOM FOR MANOEUVRE

and 11 series-coupled barrels lay bare its inner working
just as LaFerraris glass cover displays the V12 engine
for all to see. The MP-05s case, created in collaboration
with Ferraris design team, evokes the shape of the cars
engine bay, with chiselled angles and a vast sapphire
crystal to showcase the complex dial and 637-piece
movement. The tourbillon is one of the most
technically demanding of all watch mechanisms
and even owning one comes with challenges,
such as the specially designed electric
winding drill. Appropriately enough for a
timepiece inspired by an incredibly
powerful car, the MP-05 has the greatest
power reserve ever achieved in a
mechanical watch: 50 days. For 2014, the
MP-05 has been produced in a microblasted
titanium case, limited to just 20 pieces, with
the dials and logo picked out in Ferrari yellow.
All of this cements Hublots reputation as a
source of innovation, exclusivity and
performance. JONATHAN BELL
There have been many great watches inspired by many

great cars, but Hublot believes its MP-05 LaFerrari
Titanium is a true reection of its automotive
equivalent.The Swiss rm has been a partner of
Ferrari since 2011, getting the sports-car
manufacturers seal of approval for its ofcial watches,
as well as being the ofcial timekeeper for a raft of
racing events around the world. The MP-05 is rarer by
some margin than the Ferrari LaFerrari itself. The
Maranello-based companys latest machine is one of the
most technologically advanced sports cars in the
world, featuring hybrid power, carbon bre and a host
of Formula 1-derived stability devices, all wrapped up
in aggressive, baroque-style bodywork. From the
shark-nosed front to the massive ducts and vents at
the rear, LaFerrari is about purpose and function. The
MP-05 shares this emphasis on technology-driven
aesthetics; the drama of the design is created through
the mechanisms within. Hublot has developed a
remarkable movement for the watch. A horizontally
aligned tourbillon runs through the heart of the piece,
MP-05 LAFERRARI TITANIUM,
FROM ABOUT 250,000, HUBLOT
(WWW. HUBLOT.COM)
RED GOLD POCKET

WATCH 3 DAYS ORO
ROSSO, 46,800,
PANERAI (WWW.
PANERAI.COM)
POCKET SCIENCE
If you were a gentleman living in Florence in the early 20th century, you would almost certainly have owned a pocket watch, which would almost
certainly have been purchased from Panerais Orologeria in Piazza San Giovanni. Panerai is a brand that has an unswerving focus its collections are still
based on only two case shapes but it was originally a purveyor of many different Swiss watches, as the inscription on the shop stated: Orologi da tasca
delle principali marche svizzere, or Pocket watches of the main Swiss brands. Along with selling timepieces, the space in Florence included a workshop
and the citys rst watchmaking school. In tribute to its history, Panerai has produced two limited-edition pocket watches in either polished red or white
gold, each one with a 50mm gently bevelled, cushion-shaped case, topped with a nautically inspired chain. The case back opens to reveal the in-house
movement, the power reserve and a three-day power indicator, and shuts with a reassuringly expensive click. And if all of this seems one foppish step
too far, the watch comes with a custom-made stand that converts it into a very special table clock. JD
ROME
RISE AND RISE OF THE EMPIRE

Imagine if each jewellery house took ownership of a city. Who would have Paris? With so many big hitters ghting for
position on Place Vendme, there could be a scufe. And New York? Tiffany and Harry Winston would have to arm
wrestle for it (and Fred Leighton could conceivably muscle in at the last minute). What about Rome? Well, Rome is
Bulgari and Bulgari is Rome its a hands-down, no-contest walkover. Which is funny when you know that Bulgaris
founding father, Sotirio Voulgaris, was from a Greek family of silversmiths. In 1880 he moved to Italy and in 1884 opened
his rst shop in Rome at Via Sistina, between the Spanish Steps and the Triton Fountain. He Italianised his name and, in
reference to the ancient artefacts he traded in, decided to spell the company name with a V lifted from the Latin
alphabet. In the early 20th century, his sons continued the family business, developing what would become the distinctive
Bulgari style. Graeco-Roman art, the Italian Renaissance and Roman goldsmithing were all inuencing factors, and by the
1950s and 1960s, while many were still producing conservative pieces in the French style, Bulgari was creating daring
statement jewellery with its trademark preference for large, cabochon-cut coloured stones and yellow gold. In the early
1960s, Elizabeth Taylor came to lm Cleopatra in Rome and fell hard for Bulgaris razzle-dazzle (I introduced Liz to beer,
she introduced me to Bulgari, joked Richard Burton). This Hollywood seal of approval fanned the jewellers fame, and the
Rome store, now on the Via Condotti, became the most fashionable place to buy jewels. This year marks the 130th
anniversary of the rst store opening, and the brand has been ttingly generous to the city it rightly calls its own. Bulgari
has donated 1.5 million to renovate the Spanish Steps, while the agship store has been given a makeover by renowned
architect Peter Marino. And of course it would be foolish not to mark the occasion with some anniversary goodies. The
Bulgari Roma watch was rst made in 1975 as a limited run of 100, and was gifted to select clients for Christmas. This
year, 130 models will go on sale, with the lettering again engraved into the bezel (a design detail inspired by Roman
coins), but this time featuring an automatic movement, unlike the original timepieces 1970s quartz and digital display. JD
LEFT: THE ORIGINAL

1975 WATCH, IN
GOLD WITH A
CORD AND
LEATHER STRAP.
BELOW: PINK GOLD
AND ALLIGATOR
ROMA, 2014, 15,650,
BULGARI (WWW.
BULGARI.COM)
LONDON BOUTIQUE, 14A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. (+44) 207 499 22 25
HARRODS, 87-135 BROMPTON ROAD - TEL. (+44) 207 893 81 57
ABU DHABI
BAL HARBOUR
MOSCOW
NEW YORK
COURCHEVEL
PA R I S
DUBAI
PORTO CERVO
t
t
G E N E VA
ROME
wwwt degrisogonot com
G S TA A D
K U WA I T
ST BARTHELEMY
LONDON
ST MORITZ
SWITZERLAND
PHOTOGRAPH: ANDY BARTER
ALPINE ATTITUDE
FROM FAR LEFT: NABUCCO
WATCH IN TITANIUM AND
CARBON FIBRE WITH A CERAMIC
BEZEL ON A RUBBER STRAP,
3,995, RAYMOND WEIL
(WWW.RAYMOND-WEIL.COM).
NAVITIMER 1461 BLACKSTEEL
ON A BLACK MILITARY STRAP,
8,170 BREITLING (WWW.
BREITLING.COM). PONTOS S
SUPERCHARGED WATCH IN
STEEL, 3,550, MAURICE LACROIX
(WWW.MAURICELACROIX.COM).
GMT MASTER II IN WHITE GOLD,
25,600, ROLEX (WWW.ROLEX.
COM). INOX WATCH IN STEEL
ON A RUBBER STRAP, 329,
VICTORINOX (WWW.
VICTORINOX.COM).
SWITZERLAND
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:

MEISTERSTUCK HERITAGE
AUTOMATIC WATCH WITH
MOONPHASE FUNCTION IN STEEL
ON A STAINLESS-STEEL BRACELET,
3,190, MONTBLANC (WWW.
MONTBLANC.COM). EL PRIMERO
SYNOPSIS 40MM WATCH IN STEEL
WITH SILVER-TONED SUNRAY
DIAL ON AN ALLIGATOR STRAP,
4,100, ZENITH (WWW.ZENITHWATCHES.COM). 5960/1A
ANNUAL CALENDAR
CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS
STEEL, 36,920, PATEK PHILIPPE
(WWW.PATEK.COM)
PEAK PERFORMER
Switzerland punches above its weight on the worlds watchmaking scene. But how did this peace-loving,
mountainous little country become such a precision-timekeeping pioneer? By Robin Swithinbank
When it comes to answering the question

of why the Swiss are so good at making
luxury watches, its tempting to go a little
bit Crazy People.
In the very silly and very critically panned
1990 comedy, Dudley Moore plays an adman who loses faith in his profession and
has a nervous breakdown, penning some
uncomfortably honest straplines on his way
into the mental abyss: Volvos theyre
boxy, but theyre good.
Sent to a psychiatric hospital, he rediscovers
his mojo in group therapy, coaching his fellow
crazies to write similarly truthful slogans. This
culminates in the lms nal ourish, a Sony
ad which reasons that the Japanese are so good
at electronics because theyre shorter and
therefore closer to the tiny components.
The immortal tagline follows: Sony. Because
Caucasians are just too damned tall.
Maybe you can see the dilemma. Swiss
watches. Because the rest of the world is
just too feckless and lazy. Or even more
awkwardly: Swiss watches. Because theres
nothing else to do in Switzerland.
These are the most common explanations
Ive heard over the years in answer to the
question posed above, often from the Swiss
themselves. They know theyre a bit odd,
slavishly living life through a loupe to make
something that, if all logic were to follow,
has no place in a computerised world. Who
else would do that?
Theyre not completely alone, of course. The
Germans and the Japanese are next in line to
the watchmaking throne. The Brits and the
Americans still fancy themselves as watchmakers,
too, but in reality the Swiss have a tight grip
on the luxury market. Theres got to be
something else in this oligopoly, other than
obsessiveness and peculiarity right?
Its at this point that the less feckless turn
to the history books. According to a ganglioncrushing tome I have thats devoted to
Audemars Piguet, one of the so-called Big Three
traditional watch houses, the origins of Swiss
watchmaking lie in the sixth century, when the
rst signs of civilisation appeared in La Valle de
Joux, the cradle of the countrys watch industry.
La Valle de Joux is an idyllic spot north of

Geneva, with forested hills, snaking blue lakes that
freeze in winter, and air city folk get high on in a
single breath. Those early settlers were monks,
according to this big book, who found it to be
the perfect place for prayer and reection. By the
12th century, the valley was home to the Abbey
of the Lake. Its residents, we learn, were diligent,
disciplined and inuential, encouraging a work
ethic that ltered into local farming communities.
Being a medieval farmer in La Valle de
Joux was tough. Some 1,000 metres above sea
level, it endures long, harsh winters, and its soil
is notoriously unyielding. Forced indoors for
months on end, these farmers took to fashioning
and repairing tools, developing skills that would
make the valley famous for its quality glass,
nails, knives, razors, scythes and later guns. By
the 16th century, enterprising craftsmen were
making clocks, rst from wood, later from iron.
THE SWISS KNOW THEYRE

ODD, SLAVISHLY LIVING
LIFE THROUGH A LOUPE
TO MAKE SOMETHING
THAT HAS NO PLACE IN A
COMPUTERISED WORLD
At around the same time, French Huguenots
eeing religious persecution arrived in great
numbers in Geneva, where Protestant leader
John Calvin had settled after leaving France.
Many of these exiles were master watch- and
clockmakers, and their arrival added momentum
to the burgeoning Swiss watch industry.
But it wasnt until two centuries later that
the notion of a family watchmaking business
began to take hold. The Blancpain brand was
founded in 1735 and Vacheron Constantin
followed 20 years later.
By the industrial revolution of 19th century
and, Switzerlands horological fame had
spread, and percipient businessmen and
watchmakers descended on the country from
all over the world, looking to take advantage
of a skilled and still relatively cheap workforce.

In 1839, Polish watchmaking pioneer Antoine
Norbert Patek established his brand in Geneva
and 12 years later he combined forces with
Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker and
inventor of the keyless winding system. In 1868,
American Florentine Ariosto Jones moved
from Boston to Schaffhausen in the north of
Switzerland to set up the International Watch
Company, or IWC as its now known.
This inux of talent, combined with shrewd
commercial sense, meant that by the start of
the 20th century Switzerland was home to
many elite watch- and clockmaking companies,
among them: Omega, Heuer, Zenith, Longines,
Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars
Piguet. Most of them were clustered in La
Valle de Joux and in the sub-Alpine Jura
mountains which surround it, now the watchindustry backbone that curves upwards along
Switzerlands border with France.
A century of media and marketing later,
and Switzerland is the undisputed champion
of quality watchmaking the quality distinction
necessary because the country makes 28 million
watches a year, a fraction of the estimated
1.2 billion made around the world annually.
History suggests therefore that religion,
geography, climate, politics, economics,
advertising and a healthy dose of happenstance
all had a part to play in turning Switzerland into
the global capital of ne watchmaking it is today.
The question now is: what will keep it there?
Aside from the aforementioned competition,
watchmaking is looking east, specically to
China, which has already shown itself more
than adept at producing quality watches and
components, so much so that many of the
big names in Swiss watchmaking source parts
from Chinese suppliers.
But nd a man prepared to predict the
imminent usurpation of the Swiss Made brand
by Made in China, and youll nd a man who
would bet his mortgage on a racehorse. The
Swiss may be odd, or just bored, but theyve
been crafting watches so well and for so long
that theyre the only ones we know will get it
right. Perhaps then: Swiss watches. Because no
one else can be trusted.
SWITZERLAND
PLAY IT COOL
FROM TOP: ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH 42MM IN STEEL
WITH BLUE MEGA TAPISSERIE
DIAL AND RUBBER STRAP, 18,700,
AUDEMARS PIGUET
(WWW.AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM).
SEAMASTER 300 IN STAINLESS
STEEL, 5,690, OMEGA
(WWW.OMEGAWATCHES.COM).
HERITAGE BLACK BAY IN STEEL ON
A FABRIC STRAP, 2,330, TUDOR
(WWW.TUDORWATCH.COM)
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDY BARTER; FONDATION DU FESTIVAL DE JAZZ MONTREUX/2011 ARTWORK FRANCIS

BAUDEVIN/2012 ARTWORK GREG GORMAN/2013 ARTWORK OSCAR OIWA/2014 ARTWORK YOANN LEMOINE
LEFT: THE POSTER FOR

THE 2014 MONTREUX
JAZZ FESTIVAL.
BELOW: 2014 TONDA
METROPOLITAINE MJF
LIMITED-EDITION WATCH
WITH WHITE DIAL ON A
HERMES EPSOM CALFSKIN
STRAP, 7,400, PARMIGIANI
FLEURIER (WWW.
PARMIGIANI.COM)
IN TUNE WITH THE TIMES

Theres nothing like a good European esta to get the graphic-design juices owing. Festival posters, made to be succinct, direct and
informative but also poppy enough to be visible from afar, often produce arresting pieces of art, usually adorned with interesting typography
and communicating the message in a stylised, condensed and time-specic way. La Tomatina (the tomato-throwing festival in Valencia, Spain) and
Fiesta de San Fermn (running with the bulls in Pamplona) have both produced great poster art, and the Montreux Jazz Festival, founded in
1967, is Switzerlands more than capable contribution. Parmigiani, which rst sponsored Montreux in 2008, has piggybacked onto this source of
design talent and since 2011 has produced a limited-edition watch with an element of the corresponding years poster on the dial. On this
years timepiece, the Tonda Mtrographe for men and the Tonda Mtropolitaine for women, it is worked in white lacquer, using a printing
technique that reects the organic texture of the poster. JD
INDONESIA
TAKE THE PLUNGE

When the tide goes out in the little shing
village of Bahoi, the twisted roots of the
mangroves appear. Long and gnarled, they reach
deep into the mud and look like a prehistoric
subterranean structure exposed for the rst
time. Less than 10 metres away, an electric-blue
starsh clings to a rock, and stumpy ngers
of orange coral sway in the sea. Skimming over
the surface in a wooden kayak on a sultry
afternoon, it seems as if all the action around
here happens underwater.
But what does this marine scene have to do
with watches? And a prestige timepiece at that?
For the Swiss watchmaker Omega, maintaining a
link with the ocean has always been important.

Its designs have been worn by famous seafaring
adventurers including Jacques Cousteau and
the late yachtsman Sir Peter Blake, who in 2001
led an environmental expedition sponsored
by Omega aboard his ship Seamaster (and
when Blake captained Team New Zealand in
its Americas Cup victory in 1995, every crew
member had an Omega Seamaster on their
wrist). Now Omegas latest aquatic endeavour
has touched down in the remote village of Bahoi,
on the island of Sulawesi in northern Indonesia.
This place is a hotspot for marine biodiversity,
and part of the region known as the Coral
Triangle because it contains three ecosystems

vital to the health of the oceans: mangrove
forest, sea grass and coral reefs. Southern Asia
is home to 34 per cent of the reefs in the
world, sheltering more than a quarter of the
planets sh. The people of northern Sulawesi
rely on the sea for their livelihoods but, due
to exploitation and climate change, almost half
of the areas coral is damaged and as a result
sh stocks are dwindling.
For its rst hands-on environmental initiative in
Indonesia, called Time for the Planet, Omega has
teamed up with the GoodPlanet Foundation to
try to protect these crucial ecosystems through
INDONESIA
FROM TOP: THE SEAMASTER

PLANET OCEAN 600M
GOODPLANET GMT IN
STEEL, 5,160 AND STEEL
AND RUBBER, 5,090, OMEGA
(OMEGAWATCHES.COM)
two conservation programmes: one in Bahoi,

the other on Tanakeke Island in the south. And
this is where the watch comes in: a portion
of the sales of the Omega Seamaster Planet
Ocean 600M GoodPlanet GMT goes to funding
these projects. Already a modern classic, it has
a bold-blue lacquered dial and a bright-orange
GMT scale on the bezel ring colours that
reect the ocean and the coral.
Planet Ocean is also the title of a beautifully
vivid and arresting lm produced by Omega
in 2012 and directed by Yann Arthus-Bertrand,
the famously charismatic photographer and
founder of the Paris-based, ecology-focused
GoodPlanet Foundation. The lm is aimed at
raising awareness of the dangers threatening
our seas: to reach millions of viewers rather
than make millions of dollars, says Arthus38 Watch Special October 2014
Bertrand. This new project in Indonesia is

about taking action on a smaller, but equally
important, scale.
Wandering around Bahoi, it is clear that the
ocean and its bounty are at the centre of life here.
Colourful shing boats bob lopsidedly in the bay;
men sit in the shade of the palm trees repairing
their nets; carpenters plane and paint the latest
additions to the village eet. In the mangrove forest
beside the long wooden jetty a little boy squats
on a low-lying branch, eyeing up a sh in the water
below. Suddenly, he loses his balance and tumbles
backwards into the sea, laughing as he falls.
It is because of the direct link between the
livelihood of the community and its natural
resources that this place was chosen to be part
of Time for the Planet. And, with the help of two
Sulawesi-based NGOs, the project is being
managed by the villagers

themselves. Teams are
trained to monitor the
mangrove swamps, which
are a nursery for sh and
natural barrier to erosion.
Women make charcoal from
coconuts as an alternative
source of fuel so mangrove trees
arent cut down. The idea of
creating a small marine-protected
area here is to spread the positive
model to other villages nearby
(Its better in Bahoi seems to be
the unofcial catchphrase).
Another aim is to develop
eco-tourism. Bahoi has a new,
albeit still rudimentary, dive
centre and a dive master who
comes from the village. On
an afternoon spent in
the bay, he and his team
point out a lilac-tinged
sea anemone that snaps
shut when we hover above
it, and huge shoals of tiny,
silvery sh that change direction
in unison with perfectly timed
precision. Most visitors to Bahoi
come for the diving and bed down
in the picket-fenced homestay at
the edge of the village. For about
$25 a day, the charming owner provides full
board and a room right on the waterfront.
Visitors also get to feel part of village life.
Socialising is all-inclusive, with everyone from
toddlers and teenagers with Beckham-style
shark-n haircuts to the husky-voiced chief
gathering in the little grass square in the centre
of town, under the shade of a giant tree. Theres
an air of Polynesia about the place; musicians
appear with ukuleles and a double bass made
from a wooden box and coconuts, women
with pink frangipani owers in their hair dance
a two-step, twirling their wrists in the air.
On a balmy tropical night under a canopy
of palms, the atmosphere is upbeat. The chief
says that he is hopeful for the future of the seas
around here. Its still early days, but it seems
that Omegas Time for the Planet is hitting its
stride in Bahoi. GRAINNE McBRIDE
For more information about Planet Ocean,
visit www.youtube.com/omega
The Planet Ocean app, which lets consumers check
if a species of sh is threatened or sustainable, is
free to download on iTunes
In support of
Time for lifewith two limited edition timepieces in support of Doctors Without Borders/
Mdecins Sans Frontires. Each watch raises 100 USD, GBP, or EUR for the Nobel Peace Prize
winning humanitarian organization. And still these handcrafted mechanical watches with the
red 12 cost the same as the classic models from NOMOS Glashtte. Help now, wear forever.
Funds raised are donated to Mdecins Sans Frontires USA, UK, or Germany, depending on the specic model purchased. For MSF UK, the
registered charity no. is 1026588.Available at selected retailers in the three participating countries, as well as online. Find your nearest
NOMOS retailer at nomos-watches.com or order online at nomos-store.com
JAPAN
SHELL SEEKER
How do luxury brands navigate the ne line
between referencing their past and keeping their
offering relevant and contemporary? Chanel is
laden with strong historical icons the tweed
jacket, the string of pearls, the camellia. It even has
a hard-to-dispute ownership of the number ve.
All of these references relate to Coco Chanel, of
course, her indomitable style a seemingly endless
source of ideas. So its tting that one of this years
prettiest watches should feature her favourite ower,
rendered in an extraordinary material. In 1923
Chanel made the camellia her bloom of choice
(helpfully, its lack of perfume meant it didnt compete
with Chanel No. 5), and since then its petal formation
has adorned everything from handbags to
jewellery. The Japanese decorated-lacquer technique
of Maki-e (it means sprinkled picture) dates back
to the Heian period (7941185); each layer is built
up gradually to form, in this case, voluminous
petals and then embellished with individually
placed fragments of crushed quails eggshell. Chanel
employed two Japanese artisans to create the dials,
each one taking three weeks to complete. JD
MADEMOISELLE PRIVE
WATCH IN YELLOW GOLD
WITH DIAMONDS, BLACK
LACQUER, GOLD SEQUINS
AND QUAIL EGGSHELLS,
27,400, CHANEL (WWW.
CHANEL.COM)
FOLDING PATTERN
Christian Diors revolutionary 1947 New Look
saw a reimagining of the female silhouette,
morphing it into a purer and more dened
shape. Pleats and folds were made crisper and
sharper, evoking the formality of kimonos and
the precision of origami, and volumes were
accentuated. In 2012 this trend was given a
refresh with the appointment of Raf Simons as
Diors creative director. Drawing on archival
references from the 1940s, Simons has taken
inspiration from this pared-down elegance. The
Grand Soir Origami watch pays tribute to all of
this, with ve one-off pieces set with marquetry
mother-of-pearl dials. Minute slivers of opalescent
shell are layered in ve different graphic swirling
patterns, their sharp angles arranged like the crisp
folds of paper from the 2,000-year-old Japanese
art form. Unusual stone shapes add to the effect
triangle-cut gems are set on the dial of three
versions, and two models have helix-cut stones
in the bezel and the pretty pastel palette
(soft blues, pinks and yellows) is the perfect
balance for the spiky dials.
FROM LEFT: GRAND
SOIR NO. 28 ORIGAMI
WATCH, POA; GRAND
SOIR NO. 29 ORIGAMI
WATCH, POA, BOTH
DIOR (WWW. DIOR.
COM). RIGHT: BLOSSOM
WATCH, POA, BOODLES
(WWW.BOODLES.COM).
BELOW: VAGUE DE
LUMIERE WATCH, POA,
BOUCHERON (WWW.
BOUCHERON.COM)
CATCH THE WAVE

Japonism, the European obsession with all things
Japanese, in particular art, ceramics and textiles, can
be traced back to 1854 when Japan rst started
trading with the West. The fashion lasted into the
early 20th century, and Boucheron was no exception
in channelling the aesthetic; in 1910 it created a
diamond tiara (below) based on Katsushika Hokusais
wood print, The Great Wave off Kanagawa.
The Epure Vague de Lumire watch revisits this
inuence; the black haematite dial is sculpted and
carved to form the wave, which is set with a surging
spray of pav diamonds.
BLOOM TIME
Boodles has referenced Japan before in its popular
Blossom jewellery collection, which was inspired by
kimono fabric. Head of design Rebecca Hawkins has
stylised the motif further on a new watch, creating a
diamond-set pattern on the dial, with mother-of-pearl
echoing oriental silk. The last time Boodles made a
timepiece was in 1865 when the great-great-great uncle of
the current chairman designed two pocket watches. So
does this signal a move into jewellery watches? The
companys answer is an enigmatic watch this space. JD
What gives you the license to do this?

T H E CEO O F A MAJ OR S W I S S WATCH BRAND ON HEARI NG A B O U T C A L IB RE SH 2 1,
CH R ISTO PH ER WARD S FI RST I N- HOU S E M OVEM ENT.
The chronometer-certied C9 Harrison 5 Day Automatic, with 120-hour power

reserve, is the rst watch to house our own movement. Conceived and designed
by our master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, and manufactured by some of
Switzerlands nest watchmaking craftsmen, it is destined to be one of the most
talked about watches in years. And, yes, you do have the license to own one.
CA LI BR E S H 21
EXCLU S I VE LY AVA IL A B L E AT chri sto p her wa rd . co. uk
BOLIVIA
LOVE ME SLENDER
PHOTOGRAPH: GARY LATHAM/IMAGEBRIEF
Not long ago, it seemed the art of making a watch as slim as physically possible had all but disappeared, washed away by a tsunami
of Brobdingnagian chronographs and ashy, look-at-me tourbillons. But recently a small, esoteric group of brands has been rediscovering
this craft, spiriting wafer-thin wristwear back to the top of the watchmaking agenda in a ercely fought battle for skinny supremacy.
Leading those is the house of Piaget, which currently holds 16 records for slimline watches and movements. The jewel in its crown
is the new Altiplano 900P, which slips into the history books in the brands 140th anniversary year as the thinnest mechanical
wristwatch ever made. At its peak, it rises a barely discernable 3.65mm. Such slender proportions are achievable thanks to the ingenious
merging of the watchs back and baseplate. Normally these are two separate parts, but Piaget has engineered the case back of
the 900P so it can hold the tiny components that make up the movement, shaving millimeters off its prole. It has also shrunk the dial
and shifted it off centre, so the inner workings can sit alongside it rather than underneath, and whittled some of the movements
145 parts down to the bare minimum size. One of the wheels is just 0.12mm thick. Piaget has a track record here. Its rst super-slim
moment came in 1957 when it launched the 2mm-deep, hand-wound Calibre 9P. That was followed in 1960 by the 2.3mm 12P,
which at the time was the worlds thinnest automatic calibre. Those achievements were evoked in 1998 when Piaget introduced
the Altiplano, made in homage to the iconic 9P and named after an epic Andean plateau that reaches into Bolivia, Peru, Chile
and Argentina. The Altiplano is now the brands agship collection, and these watches continue to slip, ever more sylph-like, under the
cuffs of smart folks for whom bigger doesnt necessarily mean better. ROBIN SWITHINBANK
WHITE GOLD AND

ALLIGATOR ALTIPLANO
900P, 20,800, PIAGET
(WWW. PIAGET.COM)
FRANCE
NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE

Dial materials are an endless source of creativity for watch companies: feathers, eggshells, slices of meteorite,
wood and petals have all been seen recently. And this year Herms a company always looking to delight and
surprise while at the same time maintaining an iron-willed focus on meticulous craftsmanship has collaborated
with the Cristallerie Royale de Saint-Louis, a glass workshop in a small village in Lorraine, founded in 1586.
Herms bought the glassworks in 1989, but it took several attempts to persuade the creative director that the
companys most iconic product, a crystal paperweight, could be incorporated into the design of a watch. The
resulting dials, set into the classic Herms Arceau model, have created an aesthetic thats both familiar and unusual.
And with a limited production of 48, these timepieces are sure to be a collectors hit. Heres how its done
(and no, we havent made any of these terms up).
The process starts with the ball-maker dipping his punty (a metal rod) into pots of molten crystal and
enamel. As he twirls the punty, he produces a bubble-free mass known as a gob. Two crystal workers then
pull and stretch this to form long, multicoloured sticks up to 20 metres long.
Once cooled, these bars of glass are snapped into much smaller sections, then broken again into 10mm lengths,
before being carefully assembled (snapped-side up) in a radiating ower pattern in a cast-iron bowl. The rods must sit
tightly together to avoid any bubbles forming, before a nal molten-crystal calotte or skull cap is placed on top. These
two elements are then red at 1,450C to fuse them together.
The excess crystal calotte is then cut off, revealing the milleori pattern (Italian for a thousand owers),
before the resulting dial no thicker than 7mm is polished to perfection. JD
FROM TOP: THE ARCEAU

MILLEFIORI IN DIAMOND,
WHITE GOLD, CRYSTAL AND
ALLIGATOR, POA; WHITE
GOLD, CRYSTAL AND
ALLIGATOR, POA, HERMS
(WWW.HERMES.COM)
FOLLOW
THE THREAD
Sometimes a watch design team hits upon a totally unexpected but
brilliant idea. Chopards Happy Diamonds, for instance, which has loose
gems that skid around on the surface of the dial, or Vacheron
Constantins Patrimony Contemporaine, with its stones around the edge
of the case (instead of on the top of the bezel like everyone else), the best
example of discreet diamond setting. Dior is having just such a moment, but
what makes the Grand Bal VIII collection doubly clever is that the design is
integral to the mechanical workings of the watch. It was in 2011
that the brands designers rst thought about moving the rotary
wheel which winds the timepiece using the everyday
movement of the wearer and is normally visible through the
sapphire-crystal back on to the front. Dior has taken the
opportunity to embellish the wheel with everything from
mother of pearl to slivers of opal and pretty pink sapphires,
while also neatly reminding us that it looks like a swishing
ballgown (the shape is reminiscent of a full skirt with nipped-in
waist). This, of course, nods to the heritage of the French
fashion powerhouse, a sort of new-look New Look. All of
which helpfully lends clout and gravitas after all, the brand
only started producing mechanical watches in 2004. And, in line with
its fashion credentials, Grand Bal VIII Fil de Soie utilises Frances most famous
of textiles: lace. Dior has employed the deft ngers of a female lacemaker
from Le Puy, who has spun silk thread on her traditional lace-making bobbins,
and then painstakingly threaded 1.5 metres of silk per watch through minute
holes pierced into the rotary wheel. The effect is delicate and refreshingly
different, and represents the perfect amalgamation of couture and horology.
So, for anyone sniffy about fashion houses getting involved in watch
making, let this be an entirely eloquent response. JD
PHOTOGRAPH: KEN HOWARD/IMAGEBRIEF
ALL THE TRIMMINGS

Vacheron Constantins main focus this year has been on the art of
openwork the technique that involves removing as much metal as
possible from the exposed movement of a watch without affecting
its performance and, in the case of Vacheron Constantin,
engraving and hand-nishing what remains to the highest level
of craftsmanship. The four Fabuleux Ornements timepieces (20
of each) take their inuences from four corners of the world, and
France has lent its traditional art of lace-making. Its transparency
and lightness t rather neatly with the delicate exposed movement
of the watch and the white-gold, lace-like pattern on the dial.
ABOVE RIGHT: DIAMOND, ROSE-GOLD, SILK
AND CERAMIC GRAND BAL VIII FIL DE SOIE,
32,000, DIOR (WWW.DIOR.COM). LEFT:
DIAMOND, SAPPHIRE, WHITE-GOLD AND
ENAMEL FABULEUX ORNEMENTS FRENCH
LACE, 115,750, VACHERON CONSTANTIN
(WWW.VACHERON-CONSTANTIN.COM)
GERMANY
AND THE LINK IS?

GLASSHTTE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
PANOMATICINVERSE IN RED
GOLD WITH SILVER DIAL AND
ALLIGATOR STRAP, 9,802,
GLASHTTE ORIGINAL (WWW.
GLASHUETTE-ORIGINAL.COM).
LAMBDA ROSEGOLD IN ROSE
GOLD WITH LEATHER STRAP,
11,800, NOMOS GLASHTTE
(WWW.NOMOS-GLASHUETTE.
COM). RICHARD LANGE
PERPETUAL CALENDAR
TERRALUNA IN ROSE GOLD
WITH ALLIGATOR STRAP,
157,500, A LANGE & SHN
(WWW.ALANGE-SOEHNE.COM)
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDY BARTER; SHUTTERSTOCK
SAXONY
AND THE CITY
When the nest luxury watches arent
Swiss, they are most likely to be
German, and then more likely still to be
from the remote Saxonian town of
Glashtte, home to a cluster of elite
watchmaking rms. One of these is
NOMOS Glashtte, a maturing outt
known increasingly for its handsome,
pared-back designs, quirky sense of
humour and suite of accessible in-house
mechanicals, which cost from 1,000.
These uncommonly low prices are
the result of manufacturing principles
that the company inherited from an
early-20th-century artistic collective
called the Deutscher Werkbund. It
promoted the use of industrial
techniques to manufacture high-quality
products that were also affordable,
and its this philosophy that the
watchmaker claims is its inspiration
(rather than the form-follows-function
thinking of the Bauhaus art school, as
is often, wrongly, reported).
NOMOS rose out of the ashes
of the Soviet Union in 1991 and
started life sharing a phone line with
a fast-food restaurant. It has since
set up shop in Glashttes old railway
station and in 2001 expanded into
Berlin, Germanys epicentre of
postmodern cultural cool. There, it
operates Berlinerblau, the creative
agency behind its watch designs and
refreshingly unorthodox ad campaigns.
The latest watch crop includes the
Berlin set (left), four new models from
its most feminine line, the square-cased
Tetra. Each of these is distinguished by
dial colours inspired by some of the
citys less familiar haunts and traditions.
The midnight-blue-dialled Nachtijall
takes its name from a word in a
Berlin dialect meaning nightingale; the
Goldelse from the gold colour of the
Victory Column in Berlins Tiergarten;
and the green Clrchen from the
ballroom of the same name in the city
centre where the parties have been
known to go on until 5am. All three
have NOMOSs beautifully decorated,
hand-wound Alpha calibre.
The fourth new piece is the Kleene.
It is powered by the brands more
complex DUW 4301 calibre, and its
reserves of energy are registered on
an indicator poking through a small
opening on the turquoise dial, hence
Kleene, which means little one.
ROBIN SWITHINBANK
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: GOLDELSE, 1,500;
KLEENE, 1,850; CLRCHEN, 1,460; NACHTIJALL,
1,460, ALL STAINLESS-STEEL CASE WITH
SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL, NOMOS GLASSHTTE
(WWW.NOMOS-GLASHUETTE.COM).
BUENOS AIRES
RAISING THE GAME

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch, with its clever slide-and-ip
mechanism, was invented in 1931 as a way of protecting the glass on
the watch faces of polo-playing British ofcers in India. Although the
timepiece has been reincarnated in many different guises since then
there have been dual time, Ultra Thin and diamond-set models for
example the original 1930s Art Deco lines remain. More than 80 years
on, it is, like a Cartier Tank or Rolex Submariner, a design classic and
Jaeger-LeCoultres most iconic watch. How tting, then, that this years
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 (affectionately known as the Chocolate
Reverso) has a strap handcrafted by Casa Fagliano, a family-run poloboot-making workshop. Founded in Buenos Aires in 1892, it supplies
Argentinas elite players (and a smattering of European royals) with
their leather riding boots. Patriarch Rodolfo Fagliano, his sons Eduardo
and Hctor and grandson Germn pay enormous attention to detail
when making the footwear so much so that fewer than 100 bespoke
pairs are sold each year. All the cutting, assembling, stitching and polishing
techniques honed by successive generations of artisans are used in the
construction of the Reverso straps, with each one made from eight pieces
of shiny cordovan leather, known for its softness and durability. JD
ABOVE: BOOTMAKER GERMAN FAGLIANO.
LEFT: PINK GOLD AND LEATHER GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN 1931, 12,900,
JAEGER-LECOULTRE (WWW.JAEGER-LECOULTRE.COM)
MONACO
1969
THE ORIGINAL MONACO
On 3 March 1969 Tag Heuer (known then just
as Heuer) launches a watch dedicated to the
thrill of the race track. The Monaco is a squarecased automatic chronograph, a daring design
for the time. It gets the ultimate seal of approval
from Steve McQueen, who wears it in his 1971
lm Le Mans, and so ensures its classic status.
The actual model worn by McQueen sells at
auction in 2012 for $800,000.
A DRIVING PASSION
Tag Heuer has sponsored more rst-place
Monaco drivers than any brand in history. How
apt then that one of its most successful watches
is named after the worlds most iconic racing
circuit. Here Jessica Diamond tracks its evolution
from 1969 to the present day
2010
2014
THE MONACO V4T
Launched this year at Basel:
the technology rst seen
in the V4 Concept watch
10 years ago has evolved
and now drives a tourbillon
function, again using belts that
measure a mere 0.07mm
thick. The construction
and engineering of these
micro-belts still remain
one of watch-makings
best-kept secrets.
THE MONACO TWENTY

FOUR CALIBRE
36 CHRONOGRAPH
More automotive references, with this
years model featuring a hi-tech shock
absorber built into the case the
movement seems to oat on four shockabsorbing arms and lets you see through
the watch. The dials blue and orange
stripes echo the livery on the Porsche
917K driven by McQueen in Le Mans.
2011
THE MONACO MIKROGRAPH
Tag Heuer releases a one-off: the Mikrograph housed in
a Monaco case. Working at 360,000 beats per hour, the
Mikrograph is essentially a stopwatch that can measure
and display 1/100th of a second, without affecting the
performance of the watch movement. It is sold at the
Only Watch auction in Geneva for 44,000.
GRAND PRIX DE
MONACO HISTORIQUE
POWER CONTROL
WATCH, 4,510,
CHOPARD (WWW.
CHOPARD.COM)
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION/REX; LEVY/AP

ILLUSTRATIONS: RODERICK MILLS
LIFE IN THE FAST LANE

Chopard is master of the event tie-in. As an ofcial partner of the Cannes
Film Festival since 1998 it has successfully bejewelled many a photoworthy A-lister, including Cate Blanchett and Julianne Moore, with its
annual Red Carpet Collection. Its sponsorship of the Italian Mille Miglia, the
worlds most famous classic car rally, has also spawned an annual collection
of watches. So, considering Chopard has been the ofcial timekeeper of the
prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco Historique since 2002, one wonders
what has taken the company so long to come up with a Grand Prix
design. Well, the wait is over, with a capsule collection, named after the
event, launched this year comprising of the Chrono, the Automatic and
the Power Control. Of course, motoring references abound, including
the racer-style strap, the matt titanium case and the Automobile Club de
Monaco logo engraved on the back. But the highlight (literally) is the use
of yellow so redolent of speed and danger within a racing vocabulary,
and also rather cheerful in an insistently monotone watch world.
1998
1974
THE MONACO 1998
THE MONACO 74
The Monaco is discontinued in

the mid-1970s and relaunched in
1998 with a limited run of 5,000.
Its a huge commercial success
and consequently becomes part
of what is now Tag Heuers
permanent collection.
In the mid-1970s the mechanical

watch industry is in crisis due
to the unstoppable rise of the
quartz movement. Heuer looks
to reinvent the Monaco and ts
it with an all-black dial and a black
PVD-coated case at the time
the latest trend in the watch
world. Today, its the rarest
variation in the Monaco
family: one sells in 2010
for 48,000, more than
four times its estimate.
2003
THE MONACO
SIXTY NINE
2009
THE MONACO
CALIBRE 11
CHRONOGRAPH
Released in tribute to the
40th anniversary of the
original Monaco and limited
to 1,000, the watch is faithful
to the original, including the
left-hand crown favoured
by left-handed McQueen
(positioned so as not to dig
into your arm when worn
on the right hand).
2004
THE MONACO V4 CONCEPT
A revolutionary concept watch that reinvents
the traditional mechanical movement and
draws inspiration from the automotive industry,
this model houses 13 transmission belts (rather
than gears), each no thicker than a single hair.
Its invention takes 14,200 days of research to
perfect. This watch signals Tag Heuers intention
to be known as a manufacturer of serious
complications, not just a watchmaker.
STAKE IT ALL ON
RED AND BLACK
Monaco measures only 0.78 square
miles and yet it brims with cultural
and historical references, events and
personalities. Roger Dubuis has gone
down the gaming route, and tapped
into the Casino de Monte Carlo
with its La Mongasque collection,
combining the colour palette of a
roulette wheel with the dial of
a watch. Considering theyre
both circular and involve
numbers, it seems amazing no
one has done it before.
LEFT: LA MONEGASQUE BIG
NUMBER CASE IN ROSE GOLD WITH
ALLIGATOR STRAP, 23,800, ROGER
DUBUIS (WWW.ROGERDUBUIS.COM)
Why have one watch when you can

have two combined into one case?
The Monaco Sixty Nine pairs a
manual-winding chronograph on the
front with a digital chronograph
movement on the back. In 2004 it
wins the Best Design Prize at the
Geneva Grand Prix dHorlogerie.
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
A NEW EVOLUTION
This far-ung corner of Ecuador helped to
inspire the latest divers watches, says
Christian Knoop, creative director at IWC
PHOTOGRAPH: THIA KONIG/IMAGEBRIEF
FROM TOP: 50 YEARS SCIENCE

GALAPAGOS WATCH, 8,300;
EXPEDITION GALAPAGOS
ISLANDS WATCH (THE BACK),
8,250; EXPEDITION CHARLES
DARWIN WATCH IN BRONZE,
8,250, ALL FROM THE AQUATIMER
CHRONOGRAPH EDITION, IWC
AT HARRODS (WWW.IWC.COM)
My rst trip to the Galpagos Islands was back in

November 2012. I was in the process of redesigning
IWCs Aquatimer watch collection and thanks to
the companys partnership with the Charles Darwin
Foundation (CDF), which has a research station on
one of the islands, I was invited to visit. I was anticipating
spending three days in a remote and wild place, but
all my expectations were blown away when we
reached Santa Cruz Island. Its home to the CDF
research station, which celebrates its 50th anniversary
this year. Its a tropical paradise and unlike many of the
eastern islands, which are rocky and volcanic or mostly
sandbanks, it has hills covered with lush vegetation and
the most extraordinary ora and fauna Ive ever seen.
What really sticks in my memory is how close we
could get to the wildlife. Never having experienced
danger from man, these animals show absolutely no
fear. My hotel terrace was covered with iguanas of
every shape and size, all of them unfazed by my
presence. One evening someone forgot to remove
the cushions from the pool sun-loungers and we
woke the next day to nd a family of sea lions
reclining on them. It looked like a scene from a
lm both utterly bizarre and totally compelling.
They seemed put out when staff tried to move
them on, refusing to budge an inch.
With no international trawlers allowed near the
Galpagos, the sea is rich with sh, and local
shermen arrive back in the harbour with boats full
to bursting. Instead of the usual seagulls there are
pelicans, which strut around as if they own the place.
My rst day was spent exploring the CDF campus,
where 100 scientists from all over the world are
permanently on site. The architecture is incredibly
well integrated with the natural surroundings, and
solar panelling makes the place very eco-friendly. On
my second day I took part in a diving trip with two
scientists who were working on a shark-tagging
project and testing the Aquatimer collection by using
the watches on their dives. I swam within touching
distance of turtles, stingrays and hammerhead sharks.
The nal day involved a visit to Santa Fe Island, a
much rougher environment than that of Santa Cruz.
We saw manta rays jumping right out of the water.
When redesigning the Aquatimer, the challenge was
to create a watch that served as a state-of-the-art
diving instrument but also looked luxurious and
stylish. This trip made me realise that we had to
replace the Velcro strap (which doesnt hold well
when used over a long period of time underwater)
with a rubber one, and that lighting the dial with
Super-luminova was key for visibility at great depths.
I also introduced more brown tones (to reect the
sparse areas), and the underwater pictures we
took led to the blue shade on the Aquatimer
Chronograph Edition 50 Years Science Galpagos.
Thanks to CDF, my trip to this magical archipelago
gave me endless inspiration to reimagine IWCs
divers watch, and its a time Ill never forget.
CHINA
SCREEN STAR
Its said that one of the rst things
Coco Chanel bought for herself when
she was 18 years old was a pair of
Coromandel screens, which can still be
seen today in her apartment on 31 rue
Cambon in Paris. They are named after
the Coromandel coastline in India,
where boats carrying artefacts from
China were unloaded on their way to
Europe to feed the seemingly insatiable
Western appetite for Orientalism. Up to
30 layers of dark lacquer would be
etched, inlaid or painted with gures and
animals or, in Chanels case, her beloved
camellias. The brands design team have
created two pairs of watches inspired
by these folding screens, with the
coloured dragon design rendered using
the Grand Feu enamelling technique, the
dial red in a kiln to around 800C
every time a new colour is added. The
white watch is created with a new
method of sculpting mother-of-pearl,
and as a pairing they make a pleasing
yin and yang duo. JD
FROM FAR LEFT: COROMANDEL

TWIN DRAGON CELESTE IN WHITE
GOLD WITH A SCULPTED MOTHEROF-PEARL DIAL AND A SNOW-SET
DIAMOND BEZEL; COROMANDEL
TWIN DRAGON CELESTE IN WHITE
GOLD WITH A GRAND FEU ENAMEL
DIAL AND SNOW SET DIAMOND
BEZEL, 375,000 FOR THE PAIR,
CHANEL (WWW.CHANEL.COM)
MY LITTLE
PONY
Its the Chinese Year of the

Horse, which means many
savvy watch brands have
gone down the equine
route, embellishing their
dials with a variety of
engraved, enamelled and
mosaic settings. Were
wondering if the Year of the
Rat will prove as fruitful.
ARCEAU CHEVAL
DORIENT IN WHITE
GOLD WITH A
FRENCH-LACQUERED
DIAL ON AN
ALLIGATOR STRAP,
45,000, HERMES
(WWW.HERMES.
COM)
SPECIAL-EDITION
LUC XP URUSHI
HORSE WATCH IN
WHITE GOLD WITH
AN URUSHI TECHNIQUE
DIAL, 15,680,
CHOPARD (WWW.
CHOPARD.COM)
PETITE HEURE MINUTE

39MM WITH A RED-GOLD
CASE AND ENAMELPAINTED DIAL, 22,900,
JAQUET DROZ (WWW.
JAQUET-DROZ.COM)
THE WAY OF THE DRAGON
PHOTOGRAPHS: MASSIMO BORCHI/SIME/

FOUR CORNERS IMAGES; THE GRANGER
COLLECTION NYC/TOPFOTO
China is a country thats impossible to ignore within the watch sector. Although a 2012 crackdown by the Chinese government on
the practice of giving luxury gifts to win favour hit Swiss watch exports hard (down by 19 per cent in May last year, according to the
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry), purchasing in Hong Kong, Macau, Dubai and key European cities has remained buoyant.
Companies are wising up, tailoring their offering for the Asian wrist (and taste), with smaller cases and more conservative dial designs.
Chinese brand ambassadors are also a key sales force, with Omega and Longines just two examples of companies signing up talent
thats relevant in the country, such as golfer Shanshan Feng. And Chinese-made movement components continue to appear in Swissmade watches (to attain this status only 60 per cent of the value of a watch, not including assembly, must have been produced in
Switzerland), much to the dismay of purists. But the most visible change is in dial design as makers depict scenes that resonate with a
Chinese audience and Piaget is no exception. Mythical Journey is a collection of 32 watches inspired by an imaginary odyssey that
PROTOCOLE XXL MICROMOSAIC WATCH IN WHITE
meanders somewhere between the silk and spice routes, taking in everything from temples and storks to the horses of Ferghana, all
GOLD WITH A MICRO-MOSAIC
portrayed in a variety of mtiers-dart techniques. A typical mountain scene is displayed on the Piaget Protocole XXL Micro-Mosaic
DIAL FROM THE MYTHICAL
watch,
which shows a pagoda in Yunnan near the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Its only on very close inspection that its possible to see
JOURNEY COLLECTION, POA,
PIAGET (WWW.PIAGET.COM) that the dial is not painted, but made up of 5,000 tesserae, or micro-mosaics, its assembly taking more than 230 hours to complete. JD
YEAR OF THE
HORSE WATCH,
51, SWATCH
(WWW.SWATCH.
COM)
LEGENDS OF THE
CHINESE ZODIAC
YEAR OF THE HORSE
WITH A PLATINUM
AND HANDENGRAVED ENAMEL
DIAL, 104,900,
VACHERON
CONSTANTIN
(WWW.VACHERONCONSTANTIN.COM)
SANTOS-DUMONT XL IN
WHITE GOLD WITH HORSE
MOTIF IN A GEMSTONE
MOSAIC, POA, CARTIER
(WWW.CARTIER.CO.UK)
THE WORLD
Imagine what it will be like when space

travel really takes hold, and were
all nipping off for a few orbits of the
earth on our annual leave. Think
of our holiday snaps then: endless
pictures looking back to where we
came from, presumably interspersed
with lots of frames of blackness if you
get the dud seat. Taking this as
inspiration, watchmaker George
Bamford has clocked up some
imaginary air miles whizzing through
time to the day when this becomes
a reality and captured a picture of
the planet at night as seen from space.
Creating a unique piece especially for
Cond Nast Traveller, his eponymous
Bamford Watch Department has
customised a Rolex with the jawdropping view. And given the current
horological craze for moon phases and
stargazing (and even an entire solar
system on the face of the extraordinary
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight
Plantarium), we think were bang on
trend. And the name of this bespoke
watch? Time Traveller, of course. JD
For more information on how the Time
Traveller was made and images of the
watch, visit www.cntraveller.com
LIMITED EDITION DATEJUST

TIME TRAVELLER, IN
ASSOCIATION WITH
CONDE NAST TRAVELLER,
POA, BAMFORD WATCH
DEPARTMENT (WWW.
BAMFORDWATCH
DEPARTMENT.COM)
FINAL FRONTIER
L I F E
I S
A B O U T
M O M E N T S
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0
PROMESSE
STEEL, 30 MM, QUARTZ
DIAMONDS 0.17 CARATS
www.baume-et-mercier.com

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