Emulsiers for

Skin Care
Applications
2
Emulsiers for Skin Care Applications
The majority of Skin Care products and a very signicant percentage of toiletry products are emulsions. The basic components of
these formulations are emulsiers, emollients and consistency enhancers. Additional value can be given to these formulations by
including active ingredients with specic dermatological effects. The selection of these components determines the success of a
formulation. The chosen emulsier is not only crucial for the stability of an emulsion, but has also a large impact on consistency,
skin feel and care properties of a formulation. Emulsiers have a wide range of applications in cosmetic products. They are used in
creams, lotions, sprays and foams that can be of the oil-in-water (O/W) or the water-in-oil (W/O) type.
This brochure will help facilitate the selection of the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsier that is most suitable for the
desired application.
The HLB System
An emulsion is a dispersion of droplets of a non-miscible liquid in a continuous phase. The polar (hydrophilic) aqueous phase and
the non-polar (lipophilic) oil phase of an emulsion cannot be combined in a stable and homogenous way without a surface-active
additive.
Emulsiers are interfacially active substances that reduce the interfacial tension between the oil and the water phase. The emulsier
is adsorbed at the interface, giving a lm between both phases, which prevents coalescence of neighbouring droplets. Due to its
amphiphilic structure, the polar part of the emulsier has an afnity to the water phase and the non-polar part of the emulsier to
the oil phase.
Emulsiers can be dened according to their hydrophilic/lipophilic characteristics. In 1949 W.C. Grifn proposed the HLB
(Hydrophile Lipophile Balance) system in which non-ionic surfactants have been classied on a scale from 0 to 20. Emulsiers
with a strong lipophilic character have low HLB values between 3 to 8 and tend to form W/O emulsions. Emulsiers of the HLB
range of 8 to 18 are hydrophilic and prove most suitable for O/W emulsions. HLB values from 12 to 18 are most favourable for
solubilization.
Figure 1: HLB System according to W. C. Grifn

HLB Value Use as

1.5 3 Antifoaming agent
3 8 W/O emulsier
7 9 Wetting agent
8 18 O/W emulsier
13 15 Wash active substance
12 18 Solubilizer for aqueous systems
3
The Molecular Weight
Another important basic property of emulsiers is their molecular weight, the most noticeable impact is the heat stability of W/O
emulsions. Increasing the molecular weight of W/O emulsiers increases the heat stability of W/O emulsions. Experimental work
on emulsions show that the highest stability of W/O emulsions could be obtained by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsiers
such as ABIL

EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) and ISOLAN

PDI (Diisostea royl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate).

As shown in the graph (Figure 2), emulsions based on ISOLAN

PDI are stable up to 50 C. By using ABIL

EM 90 as an emul sier
it is possible to produce cosmetic formulations with a heat stability up to 60 C. The stabilizing potential of the organic, low
molecular weight W/O emulsiers TEGIN

OV (Glyceryl Ole ate) and ISOLAN

GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) is lower (only

up to 40 45 C).
The high emulsion stabilizing effect of ABIL

EM 90 and ISOLAN

PDI is most likely due to the strong ad sorption on the interface

which results from its amphiphilic, polymeric structure. This is an advantage over the monofunctional partial esters which have
molecular weights between 500 and 2000.
Figure 2: Emulsion stability in correlation to the molecular weight of the emulsier
Molecular weight (g/mol)
60
50
40
30
U
p
p
e
r

l
i
m
i
t

o
f

s
t
a
b
i
l
i
t
y

(
o
C
)
100 500 1000 5000 10000
ABIL

EM 90
ISOLAN

PDI
ISOLAN

GI 34
TEGIN

OV
4
Applications
With Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers, either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions can be prepared.
Also some specic emulsion types such as triple emulsions or water-in-silicone emulsions can be formulated. Depen ding on the
emulsier different application forms can be realized: creams, lotions, sprayable emul sions and impregnating liquids for wet wipes.
Typical elds of application encompass body and skin care, sun care, after sun treatment, decorative cosmetics and deodorants/
antiperspirants.
Emulsiers Landscape
The landscape in Figure 3 should provide the cosmetic formulator a use-oriented overview of W/O and O/W emulsiers.
A representative selection of 20 emulsiers are characterized according to their properties:

The averaged theoretical molecular weight in g/mol is plotted on the y-axis. The HLB value on a scale from 0 to 20 is plotted on
the x-axis. W/O emulsiers have a low HLB value between 3 to 8. Emulsiers of the HLB range of 8 to 18 are suitable for O/W
including cationic emulsion.
The colors differentiate the emulsiers by their chemistry. Silicone based emulsiers ( ) are depicted in orange and ve ge table
based products ( ) are colored in grey. Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers ( ) appear in green color. The deep purple
color corresponds to cationic emulsiers ( ).
The different shapes represent the physical form of the emulsier. The circle visualises a liquid emulsier, square shape stands for a
solid emulsier and the triangle indicates a pasty material.
The table also contains information for which application creams, lotions and sprays which emulsier is best suited for. Furthermore
it informs which emulsiers have already been certied by ECOCERT the leading independent international environmental
organization based in France. It is currently the largest environmental control and certication organization in Europe and it works
in 80 different countries all over the world. ECOCERT follows ISO Guide 65 (EN 45011).
Our ECOCERT approved product list besides emulsiers can also be found at our webpage: www.evonik.com/personal-care
Molecular weight
HLB value
Chemistry
Physical form
Application form
ECOCERT approved
5
20000
10000
1000
500
M
o
l
e
c
u
l
a
r

w
e
i
g
h
t

[
g
/
m
o
l
]

= silicone based = vegetable based
= vegetable based, PEG-free = cationic
17
14
11
10
8
12
19
18
20
15
13
6
4
5
2
1
3
7
16
9
5 10 15 20
Figure 3: Emulsiers Landscape
No. Trade Name Application form ECOCERT approved

1 ABIL

EM 90 X X
2 ABIL

WE 09 X X
3 ABIL

EM 97 X X
4 ISOLAN

GPS X X X
5 ISOLAN

PDI X X
6 ISOLAN

GI 34 X X
7 ABIL

Care 85 X X X
8 AXOL

C 62 X X X X
9 TEGO

Care CG 90 X X X X
10 TEGO

Care 450 X X X
11 TEGO

Care PS X X X
12 TEGIN

Pellets X X X
13 TEGINACID

C X
14 TEGINACID

H X X
15 TEGO

Care 165 X X
16 TEGO

Care LTP X X X X
17 TEGO

Emulprot

X X X
18 VARISOFT

TA 100 X X
19 TEGO

Care CE 40 X X
20 VARISOFT

PATC X X
Cream Lotion Spray
HLB value
= liquid
= solid
= paste
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Emulsiers for W/O Emulsions
Despite the fact that oil-in-water emulsions still dominate the cosmetic market, water-in-oil emulsions are favored when a greater
emolliency is desired in Night Creams, Nappy/Diaper Rash emulsions or All Weather Creams.
Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsiers


The excellent stabilizing potential of the polymeric and polyfunctional organosilicone emulsiers combined with their specic
application properties (excellent spreading and lm forming, skin feel) gives them an essential role in many cosmetic formulations.
ABIL

EM 90 and ABIL

WE 09 are suitable for the preparation of Multiple Emulsions of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type
or the oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type. One of the most interesting possibilities of these triple emulsions is the gradual release of
water-soluble or oil-soluble active ingredients from the internal phase.

The importance of natural, PEG-free raw materials for skin care cosmetics has strongly increased. Poly gly cerol esters and glucose
esters of natural fatty acids are the emulsiers of choice for W/O emulsions when good application properties linked with high
temperature stability and exibility of phase-volume ratio is afforded. ISOLAN

GI 34 is especially suitable for W/O creams. The

well-known emulsier ISOLAN

PDI is used in a wide range of applications such as creams and lotions in Skin Care. ISOLAN

GPS
is especially designed for the formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with very low oil phase content (down to 18 20%).
Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers
ISOLAN

PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate)

ISOLAN

GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate)
ISOLAN

GPS (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)

Organosilicone emulsiers
ABIL

EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone)

ABIL

WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate)

ABIL

EM 97 (Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane)

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Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Stable Body and Facial Care products can be formulated with all Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care W/O emulsiers. Therefore
the choice of emulsiers for specic applications depends on the desired properties of a formulation (e.g. stability, viscosity, skin
feel), on the desired processing and on the type of chemical structure of the emulsier a formulator wants to use.
Baby Care
Baby Care formulations should provide a good protection of the baby skin combined with a high caring effect and a rich skin feel.
As green and natural products the vegetable based, PEG-free polyglycerol/glucose esters of the ISOLAN

family are recommendable

emulsiers for Baby Care applications. Baby Creams and Nappy Rash Creams based on ISOLAN

PDI and ISOLAN

GI 34 impart a
rich skin feel and are compatible with active ingredients. With ISOLAN

PDI the formulation of W/O lotions with a brilliant white

appearance, good caring properties and a rich skin feel is possible.
Sun Care
Pleasant light and silky Sun Care creams and lotions with low fatting properties can be formulated with the or gano silicone
emulsiers ABIL

EM 90 and ABIL

WE 09. Sun Care emulsions with a high SPF can be formu lated based on ABIL

EM 90 and
ABIL

WE 09 due to their compatibility with high amounts of organic and inorganic UV lters. The high hydrophobicity and the
good stabilizing potential of these emulsiers allow the formulation of waterproof Sun Care products.
Decorative Cosmetics
The organosilicone emulsiers ABIL

EM 97, ABIL

EM 90 and ABIL

WE 09 are the ideal emulsiers for light make-up formulations.

In Decorative Cosmetics like foundations often high contents of silicone oils are used. While ABIL

EM 97 is mainly recommended
for W/Si emulsions, ABIL

EM 90 is known to give excellent stabilities in W/O as well as in W/Si formulations. Therefore mixtures
of ABIL

EM 97 and ABIL

EM 90 have often proved to be favorable in Decorative Cosmetics. ABIL

EM 90 and ABIL

WE 09 are
also known to be excellent emulsiers to obtain waterproof make-up and foundation formulations.
Deodorants/Antiperspirants
ABIL

EM 97 plays a key role in the formulation of water-in-silicone emulsions for the application Deo do rants/Antiperspirants.
Depending on the composition of the water-in-silicone formulation clear emulsions (gels) or white emulsions with a silky soft feeling
can be obtained.
Antiperspirant formulations based on ABIL

EM 97 provide fast release of the active with a high shelf stability for the emulsion.
The fast release of AP-active from ABIL

EM 97 based emulsions has been proven in tests.

8
Additional Benets
Skin Feel
Particular light and silky W/O creams and lotions with a soft, dry, non-sticky skin feel and low fatting properties can be formulated
with the organosilicone emulsiers of the ABIL

family. Especially ABIL

EM 97 is known to provide an elegant silky soft

character to emulsions.
For the formulation of emulsions with a particular rich skin feel as desired for Night Creams, All Weather Creams or Baby Creams
we recommend to use the ISOLAN

polyglycerol esters such as ISOLAN

GI 34 and ISOLAN

PDI.
W/O Lotions with a pleasant very light, non-oily skin feel can be obtained using ISOLAN

GPS.
Excellent Heat/Freeze Stability
As shown in Figure 2, the heat stability of W/O emulsions is signicantly improved by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsiers
with a high molecular weight. The best available option to formulate emulsions with an excellent heat stability (depending on the
formulation up to + 60 C) is therefore the organosilicone emulsier ABIL

EM 90.
As a PEG-free, vegetable based alternative to ABIL

EM 90 the polymeric polyglycerol ester ISOLAN

PDI is recommended.
Depending on the formulation a heat stability up to + 50 C can be reached.
With both emulsiers freeze stabilities of - 25 C can be obtained. A high emulsion stabilizing effect is also given with ISOLAN

GPS.
Cold Processing
Working with wax-free formulations in a cold emulsication process is becoming more and more important for mass-market W/O
lotions. Since the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers ABIL

EM 90, ABIL

WE 09, ABIL

EM 97, ISOLAN

PDI and
ISOLAN

GPS are liquid, they are well suited for such cold processed formulations. As stabilizer Zinc Stearate proved to be most
effective.
Emulsiers for O/W Emulsions
Worldwide, the type of emulsion most often produced and used is of the oil-in-water variety. O/W emulsions include the more
common types of cosmetic creams and lotions, as well as sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids.
Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsiers

The silicone based, liquid product ABIL

Care 85 combines the characteristics of an O/W emulsier with an added value concerning
the velvety skin feel which can be obtained in emulsions based upon it.
Organosilicone Emulsier
ABIL

Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)

9
Vegetable based, PEG-free Emulsiers
AXOL

C 62 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)

TEGO

Care CG 90 (Cetearyl Glucoside)

TEGO

Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate)

TEGO

Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)

TEGO

Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)

TEGO

Emulprot

(Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum,
Magnesium Stearate)
TEGIN

Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE)

These green and PEG-free emulsiers have application in all possible types of O/W formulations.
AXOL

C 62 is a food grade emulsier which is based on natural raw materials. By using AXOL

C 62 Pellets it is possible to produce

cosmetic formulations with a wide range of consistencies from lotions to creams. Depending on the composition even edible
emulsions can be prepared. AXOL

C 62 is supplied in pellets and powder form. For the hot processing of O/W emulsions the
use of AXOL

C 62 Pellets is suggested due to better processing.

Different to other alkyl glucoside emulsiers on the market, TEGO

Care CG 90 has an extremely high content of active matter

(> 90 %). It forms stable emulsions at very low usage concentrations (1 1.5 %) without the need for a co-emulsier. Due to the
low content of consistency enhancers in the product a wide range of compositions with different viscosity levels can be easily
formulated. When processing it is recommended to add TEGO

Care CG 90 to the water phase.

With TEGO

Care 450 and TEGO

Care PS the cosmetic formulator is given the opportunity to formulate a broad spectrum of
cosmetic creams and lotions based on raw materials from a natural basis. These PEG-free methylglucose esters form O/W emulsions
with a bright white appearance and pleasant application properties.
TEGIN

Pellets is a commonly used emulsier based on vegetable raw materials. In 1929 Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH developed
this O/W emulsier which is suitable for the processing of stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 to 8.2.
TEGO

Care LTP is a versatile, liquid PEG-free emulsier based on vegetable raw materials suitable for the formulation of O/W
emulsions. It is especially of interest for the cold processing of lotions and sprays at room temperature and for the hot processing of
creams. Emulsions based on TEGO

Care LTP can be prepared with standard production processes using a homogenizer, but in
cases where no homogenizer is available in production, TEGO

Care LTP can also be used for the preparation of O/W lotions using
intense stirring instead of a homogenization step.
TEGO

Emulprot

is a new generation of emulsier and texturizer that is close to nature. It is a milk and sugar based, PEG-free
emulsier which is produced by a biotechnological process. The product is available as a powder and suitable for hot processing.
TEGO

Emulprot

is especially suitable for Green Natural O/W emulsions for the application Facial, Body Care and Baby Care.
These green emulsiers are all approved by Ecocert.
10
One outstanding property of the TEGINACID

products is their stability in acid or weakly alkaline formulations (pH values

between 4.0 and 8.5). While TEGINACID

C is mainly suitable for the formulation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical creams, the
main applications of TEGINACID

H are O/W lotions.

TEGO

Care 165 is especially of interest for the processing of low cost mass market O/W emulsions. Creams and lotions containing
TEGO

Care 165 show improved compatibility with higher concentrations of electrolytes.

Creams and lotions formulated with the cationic vegetable based emulsiers of the VARISOFT

family provide a specic non-oily

skin feel which might be favorable in formulations with higher lipid loadings. The specic properties of these formulations are due
to the cationic character of the emulsier molecule. Because of this cationic character, stabilisation of the formulations with Carbomer
thickeners is not favourable. However, these emulsiers are well compatible with all type of classical consistency enhancers.
Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Emulsiers for Facial Care applications should ideally be natural and mild products that provide some additional benets to facial
skin. These aspects are met when using the emulsier TEGO

Care 450. In a publication of Henkel On the Choice of O/W

Emulsiers for Use in Skin Care Products for Sensitive Skin TEGO

Care 450 was in-vivo tested as a very mild emulsier.

Moisturizing properties as measured by corneometer have also been determined [1]. TEGO

Care 450 can be seen as an excellent

emulsier for Facial Care applications. Furthermore TEGO

Care CG 90 and TEGO

Care PS are also good emulsiers with

moisturizing properties for Facial Care lotions and creams.
Consumers expect Hand Care products to be easily spread, quickly absorbed and to possess a lasting caring effect. In addition, a
hand cream should be difcult to wash off, i.e. it should not re-emulsify immediate on contact with water.
Cationic Emulsiers
VARISOFT

TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride)

VARISOFT

PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)

TEGO

Care CE 40 (Cetearyl alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimoniumchloride)

Vegetable based Emulsiers
TEGINACID

C (Ceteareth-25)
TEGINACID

H (Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteth-20)

TEGO

Care 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate)

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TEGIN

Pellets is the most commonly used emulsier in Hand Care products. Also TEGINACID

C plays an im por tant role as well

approved emulsier in Hand Care creams. Combining TEGIN

Pellets or TEGINACID

C with TEGO

Care 450 and/or TEGO

Care PS
in Hand Care formulations often yields additional benets such as improved water resistance or additional moisturizing properties.
Body Care lotions for the low cost mass market can be formulated on the basis of the PEG-free emulsiers AXOL

C 62 and
TEGO

Care LTP. By using different types of emulsiers a specic type of skin feel of the Body Care product can be obtained (see
section Additional Benets: Skin Feel).
Baby Care
For O/W formulations in Baby Care Applications green, vegetable based, PEG-free raw materials with a high purity are requested.
TEGO

Care CG 90 is a natural, highly efcient emulsier of high purity which is therefore perfectly suited for formulating all
different types of Baby Care emulsions.
Sun Care
In Sun Care applications emulsiers are needed that show an excellent compatibility with organic and inorganic UV lters.
AXOL

C 62 is a proven natural emulsier for Sun Care lotions and creams. Many cosmetic Sun Care product lines are based on
this emulsier. Using the emulsier TEGO

Care 450 results in Sun Care formulations with a much higher water resistance than it
is usually known from O/W Sun Care products based on classical PEG-containing O/W emulsiers. Cationic emulsions have been
proven to give water resistance properties and to improve the sand repellency of Sun Care products. Especially in combination with
REWOPAL

PIB 1000 the water resistancy can be increased.

Deodorants/Antiperspirants
In roll-on Deodorant/Antiperspirant applications ABIL

Care 85 in combination with the co-emulsiers TEGINACID

H or
TEGO

SMO 80 V allows the formulation of low viscous lotions with an excellent light and smoothing perception on the skin.
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Special Forms of Application
Sprayable Emulsions
Sprayable emulsions play a role of signicant importance in many segments of the cosmetic market (e.g. Sun Care, After Sun, Skin
Care). A prerequisite in formulating sprayable emulsions are stable O/W lotions with a low viscosity. Such low viscous O/W
emulsions can be also used as a basis for impregnating liquids for wet wipes.
O/W sprayable lotions based on the emulsier/consistency enhancer blend TEGINACID

H can be produced by the classical hot

process with standard homogenization equipment. Their resulting viscosity is very low (100 500 mPas)*. Due to the ne droplet
size, the emulsions show a sufcient long-term stability even with these low viscosities.
The combination of ABIL

Care 85 with TEGINACID

H provides sprayable lotions (viscosity approx. 1500 mPas)* with an improved

skin feel compared to emulsions which are only based on ethoxylated emulsiers (velvety-silky, smoothing instead of watery with
a dull after feel).
Sprayable emulsions based on a combination of ABIL

Care 85 and a hydrophilic co-emulsier such as TEGO

SMO 80 V can be
obtained by cold processing. These consistency enhancer-free formulations can be stabilized by using polymeric thickeners (e.g.
TEGO

Carbomers). The viscosity for such sprayable lotions has to be between 1000 and 2000 mPas* in order to have a good
long-term stability. A viscosity of 2000 mPas or even higher is not a problem for the spray heads that are available today.
PEG-free, sprayable emulsions on basis of AXOL

C 62 can be produced by hot processing via a concentrated emulsion. The emulsion

viscosity can vary between 100 and 2000 mPas*.
Another possibility to obtain sprayable lotions based on a PEG-free emulsier is the use of TEGO

Care CG 90. Combi ning

TEGO

Care CG 90 with potassium stearate as co-emulsier in a hot process allows the formulation of stable sprayable lotions
with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 mPas*.
Stable O/W sprayable lotions can be prepared with TEGO

Care LTP in a cold process at room temperature using a homogenizer.

TEGO

Care LTP should be combined with polymeric stabilizers/thickeners in order to adjust the viscosity and the stability prole
of the PEG-free emulsions. For the preparation of sprayable emulsions a combination of TEGO

Carbomer 141 (INCI: Carbomer)

and TEGO

Carbomer 341 ER (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer) proved to be most effective. The viscosity
of the nal emulsion should be approx. 2000 mPas.
* Brookeld RVT, Spindle 4, 10 rpm.
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Wet Wipes
Low viscous O/W emulsions are of interest for many cosmetic applications. Systems of particular interest are impregnating lotions
for the preparation of cosmetic wet wipes. A new technology of P.I.C. (phase inversion concentration) emulsions has been developed.
The products are traded under the names TEGO

Wipe DE and TEGO

Wipe DE PF.
TEGO

Wipe DE and TEGO

Wipe DE PF are unique blends of EO-free emulsiers, a caring cosmetic emollient and signicant
amounts of preservatives. The INCI name of TEGO

Wipe DE is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol,

Methylparaben, Dilauryl Citrate, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben. The INCI of TEGO

Wipe DE PF
is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Dilauryl Citrate. Both products are liquid concentrates
easy-to-process by dilution with water.
When diluting 3 8% of TEGO

Wipe DE or TEGO

Wipe DE PF nely dispersed O/W emulsion can be obtained via a

microemulsion-like phase. Due to the relatively high amount of preservative in TEGO

Wipe DE/DE PF additional preservation of

the resulting impregnating liquid may not be necessary.
The production process is very simple as no heating and no homogenizer is required. Impregnating liquids made from TEGO

Wipe DE/
DE PF products have a very ne degree of dispersion absolutely comparable to P.I.T. emulsions based on ethoxylated emulsiers
which leads to good long-term stability.

Additional Benets
Skin Feel
With the ageing population, skin moisturization has become a key attribute to consumers. One way to a chieve this effect is to boost
the lipophilic content in formulas. This, however, can impart an unpleasant, unctuous feel to a skin care product.
Cationic emulsion systems based on low irritation, skin friendly emulsiers are now being used to create a unique powdery feel
that can mask higher lipophilic loadings. Cationic emulsiers can be included in moisturizing lotions, facial creams, Sun Care products
or shaving creams to give a dry, non-oily skin feel combined with good adsorption.
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VARISOFT

TA 100 offers the formulator exibility in choosing the stabilizers. Emulsions made with this emulsier are extremely
light and absorb quickly to form a matte nish on the skin surface. Emulsions based on VARISOFT

PATC have a light after feel but

leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture.
A velvety-silky skin feel combined with a long lasting skin smoothing perception can be obtained by cosmetic emulsions with the
organosilicone emulsier ABIL

Care 85. As a result of corneometer and FOITS measurements ABIL

Care 85 can be judged as

having outstanding skin moisturizing and skin smoothing properties.
Lotions and creams formulated with TEGO

Care 450 provide a caring, rich skin feel combined with additional moisturizing
properties.
The highly effective alkyl glucoside emulsier TEGO

Care CG 90 is known to impart a soft and supple skin feel to O/W creams
and lotions.
Performance
Modern emulsiers should provide a large exibility to the formulator regarding the range of obtainable viscosities (creams, lotions)
and the range of emulsifyable oil components (emollients of different chemical structure and different polarity). Furthermore a
sufcient pH range (4.5 8.0) should be accessible for the formulations based on these emulsiers. Additional requirements can
be the compatibility with electrolytes or with UV lters or other active ingredients.
Such a wide exibility for the formulator is offered by the versatile emulsier TEGO

Care 450, which is known for its excellent

compatibility with active ingredients and signicant amounts of electrolytes within the desired pH range.
In specic formulations like self tanning products containing DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) a pH 4.0 is needed. TEGO

Care PS can
be recommended for such formulations at low pH values.
In order to obtain even higher electrolyte resistance in O/W formulations, TEGO

Care 165 alone or as co-emulsier can provide

additional stability.
15
Processing
The processing of O/W emulsions at room temperature has several signicant benets. For example, it is no longer necessary to
heat the water and oil phase to 70 80 C. This saves not only considerable amounts of energy, but, as the cooling step is eliminated,
the cycle time is reduced as well. Another advantage is that heat-sensitive ingredients, such as biological additives, can be added to
the emulsions at any point.
The liquid organosilicone emulsier ABIL

Care 85 in combination with the liquid co-emulsier TEGO

SMO 80 V enables cold

processing of O/W lotions with velvety-silky skin feel.
PEG-free, cold processable lotions can be produced by using a pre-solution of AXOL

C 62. A pre-solution of 10 % of AXOL

C 62
can be prepared which has a long time storage stability and which is pumpable at room temperature. This pre-solution can be easily
worked into the water phase of the emulsion in a cold process.
Cold processed O/W emulsions can be also obtained with the PEG-free emulsier TEGO

Care LTP. This cost effective liquid

emulsier is easy-to-use for cold processing of lotions and sprays. The emulsier is able to stabilize O/W lotions with and without
a real homogenization step.
TEGO

Wipe DE/TEGO

Wipe DE PF allows in a very convenient way to process O/W sprays and lotions at room temperature.
The O/W emulsions can be prepared without a homogenizer only using moderate stirring to prepare the emulsion. For these
applications the addition of polymeric stabilizers such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum is necessary.
The following 2 diagrams summarize the representative W/O and O/W emulsiers according to their trade name, INCI name,
elds of application, usage concentration and the most important properties. The overviews are dedicated to help in selecting the
right emulsier for the desired formulation.
16
Trade Name INCI Name Properties

Silicone based emulsifier with a high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to its
polymeric and polyfunctional structure
Emulsifier for light creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 compatibility with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters
ABIL

EM 90 Dimethicone Emulsifier for multiple emulsions

Polyglyceryl-4
Isostearate, Optimally balanced blend of emulsifiers and an emollient, similar to ABIL

EM 90
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Especially suitable for sunscreen emulsions with high sun protection factors and
Dimethicone, make up formulations
ABIL

WE 09 Hexyl Laurate Emulsifier for multiple emulsions

Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Silicone based emulsifier for water-in-silicone creams and lotions
Dimethicone, Emulsifier for antiperspirant formulations (including clear gels) with excellent
ABIL

EM 97 Cyclopentasiloxane delivering of antiperspirant active ingredients

PEG-free emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials especially suitable for the
Polyglyceryl-4 formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with a pleasant, very light and non-oily
Diisostearate/ skin feel
Polyhydroxystearate/ Allows the formulation of W/O lotions with a very low content of oil phase
ISOLAN

GPS Sebacate (down to 18 20%)

Vegetable based emulsifier with high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to
Diisostearoyl its polymeric and polyfunctional structure
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Emulsifier for elegant W/O emulsions with a brilliant white appearance and
ISOLAN

PDI Dilinoleate pleasant application properties

Polyglyceryl-4 Emulsifier for creams with paraffin oils and with ester oils
ISOLAN

GI 34 Isostearate Good stability against oxidation

Figure 4: W/O Emulsiers Overview
17
Usage/Concentration Fields of Application
Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP



1.5 2.5 %
4.0 6.0 %

1.5 3.0 %





2 3%
3.0 %
2.5 4.0 %
18
Trade Name INCI Name Properties


Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16
PEG/PPG-16/16
Dimethicone, Silicone based nonionic emulsifier for sprayable emulsions, lotions and creams
Caprylic/Capric Emulsions with a velvety-silky skin feel and long-lasting skin smoothing perception
ABIL

Care 85 Triglyceride Cold processable and easy to handle (liquid and clear down to 0 C)
PEG-free, food grade emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials
Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier for creams, lotions, sprays and foams
AXOL

C 62 Citrate Suitable for cold production of lotions (powder form)

Sugar based, PEG-free emulsifier with a high purity/active matter
Emulsifier for natural emulsions
TEGO

Care CG 90 Cetearyl Glucoside Additional benefits: soft and supple skin feel, moisturizing
PEG-free emulsifier based on natural renewable raw materials
Polyglyceryl-3 Emulsifier for creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility
Methylglucose with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters
TEGO

Care 450 Distearate Additional benefits: very mild to skin, moisturizing, water resistant sunscreens
Similar to TEGO

Care 450, but

Methyl Glucose Stable creams with lower pH values (down to 3.5)
TEGO

Care PS Sesquistearate Higher compatibility with electrolyte-type active ingredients

PEG-free emulsifier based on renewable raw materials
Stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 8.2
TEGIN

Pellets Glyceryl Stearate SE Additional benefit: moisturizing

Non-ionic emulsifier for cosmetic and pharmaceutic creams (US Pharmakopoeia)
TEGINACID

C Ceteareth-25 Creams with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredients
Blend of emulsifier and consistency enhancer for the preparation of lotions
Glyceryl Stearate, Especially suitable for sprayable lotions (wet wipes, sun care, deodorants) as well
TEGINACID

H Ceteth-20 as foaming lotions

Glyceryl Stearate Vegetable based emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions with pleasant
(and) PEG-100 application properties
TEGO

Care 165 Stearate Compatible with higher concentrations of electrolytes

Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-free, liquid O/W emulsier easy- to-use for cold processing of lotions
Polyglyceryl-4 and sprays and for hot processing of creams
Laurate, Dilauryl Able to stabilize O/W lotions prepared in a cold process without a real

TEGO

Care LTP Citrate homogenization step

Sodium Citrate,
Hydrolyzed Milk
Protein, Xanthan
Gum, Cyamopsis,
Tetragonoloba
(Guar) Gum, A Natural Milk-and-Sugar-Based Emulsier for O/W emulsions
TEGO

Emulprot

Magnesium Stearate Innovative PEG-free emulsier especially designed for Natural Cosmetic Products
Cetearyl alcohol (and)
Palmitamidopropyl- Cationic emulsier system for O/W creams and lotions
trimonium Chloride Provides a powdery skin feel
TEGO

Care CE 40 (proposed). Co-Emulsier to alter a formulations sensory prole

Emulsifier based on renewable raw materials for O/W emulsions
Distearyldimonium Emulsions are extremely light and absorb quickly to form a matte finish on the
VARISOFT

TA 100 Chloride skin surface

Palmitamidopropyl- Unique, vegetable based emulsifier for creams and lotions
VARISOFT

PATC trimonium Chloride Formulations have a light after feel, but leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture
Figure 5: O/W Emulsiers Overview
Authors: Gabriele Polak, Dr. Jrgen Meyer, Anna Howe, Angela Paez Guide line formulations:
For further information please visit our homepage: www.evonik.com/personal-care
19
Usage/Concentration Fields of Application

Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP



1.5 3.0 %
0.3 2.0 %
1.0 1.5 %

2.0 3.0 %
2.0 4.0 %
6.0 8.0 %
2.0 %
3.0 4.0 %

3 10 %

1.5 2.5 %


2.5 5.0 %

6.0 8.0 %

3.5 5.5 %
4.0 4.75 %
Literature: [1] G. Kutz, P. Biehl, M. Waldmann-Laue and B. Jackwerth: On the Choice of Oil-in-Water Emulsiers for Use in Skin
Care Products for Sensitive Skin, SFW-Journal 123, 145 150, 1997
[2] Dietz, Th.: Sprayable Emulsions and Foaming Lotions, SFW-Journal 128, 62 66, 2002
[3] P. Becker, J. Meyer, B. Grning: TEGO

Emulprot

An Innovative Milk and Sugar Based Emulsier for Natural Skin Care
Concepts, Cosmetic Year Book, July 2007
[4] J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Ftsch: A Novel PEG-free Emulsier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel,
SFW-Journal, November 2005
[5] J. Meyer, G. Polak, R. Scheuermann: Preparing PIC Emulsions with a Very Fine Particle Size, Cosmetic & Toiletries, January 2007
03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 22-08
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of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)