Sewing Machine

SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL
PREPARED BY:
ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

Chenetha bhavan, Nampally, Hyderabad- 500 001
SUBMITTED TO:
GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ

21, Jor Bagh, New Delhi 110 003
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CONTENTS
PARTICULARS CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION CHAPTER II SEWING MACHINE 1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE 2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE 3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE 4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY 5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES A. MULTI - NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE B. OVERLOCK MACHINE C. BARTAK SEWING MACHINE D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE F. FEED OF THE ARM 6. MEASURING TOOLS CHAPTER III SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES 1. Page board test 2. Color Blindness 3. Visual Dexterity CHAPTER - IV - TRAINING OF SEWING MACAHINE OPERATORS 1. PAPER EXERCIESES
A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity B. Precise stops at maximum speed C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity D. Change of Direction with Needle Down E. Sewing Curve with One Hand F. Sewing in Circles G. Judging changes of direction H. Sewing curves I. Over Lock Sewing straight line J. Over Lock Exact stop K. Sewing curves
Page No. 6 7 To 22
23 To 27
28 To 87 29 to 61
2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
62 To 65
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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread B. Threading the bobbin case C. Bobbin winding 3. FABRIC EXERCISES A. Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material B. Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material C. Sewing 6x 6 back tack D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12 E. 12 X 6 Top stitch F. Backtack 6x 1`2 G. Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
66 To 87
CHAPTER - V
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART
1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS 2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN 3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS
88 To 90
CHAPTER - VI
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS
A. Safety- Rules B. Important safety instructions C. Machine adjustments and control
91 To 100
CHAPTER - VII
NEEDLE
1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE 2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS 3. STANDARD NEEDLES 4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE 5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
101 To 112
CHAPTER - VIII
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
113 To 116 117 To 127
CHAPTER - IX
TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM
1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS 2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS 3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT 4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER 5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER 6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
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7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT
CHAPTER - X
128 To 132
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES

1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE 2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE 3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE 4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING
133 To 226
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT

1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts 2. Attaching one piece to other using folder 3. Placket facing attach using folder 4. Hemming operations using folder 5. Square pocket attach 6. Rounded bottom pocket attach 7. Bottom triangle pocket attach 8. Diamond pocket attach 9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners
10. Collar run stitch operation
11. Top stitch along edges 12. Hem along the contour 13. Mock neck band hem 14. Sewing with template 15. Mock pick stitching 16. Top stitch handling tree piles 17. Mock centre stitch collar 18. Mock topstitch collar 19. Cuff hem 20. Mock run stitch cuffs 21. Binding operation 22. Binding operation using a folder 23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder 24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder 25. Attach two plies using folder 26. Pleats 27. Mock yoke attach with folder 28. Shoulder attach without folder 29. Topstitch shoulder
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30. Shoulder attach using folder 31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric 32. Mock collar attach 33. Binding operations 34. Mock collar finish 35. Lap seam along contour 36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam) 37. Lap seam along contour using folder 38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder 39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam 40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder 41. Topstitch sleeve attach 42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder 43. Hemming long contours (Curved) 44. Long straight hemming 45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder 46. Long straight hemming using folder
CHAPTER XII
227 To 241
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE

1. Various Collar Operations 2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining: 3. Pocket Hemming 4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve 5. Tail Hemming 6. Button Stay Hemming 7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 8. Setting Sleeve Plackets 9. Closing Side Seams 10. Sleeve Setting 11. Attach Center Placket 12. Pleat Gauge
CHAPTER XII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
242 To 243
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CHAPTER - I INTRODUCTION
Apparel and Textile industry in India is the largest employer after agriculture. It provides direct employment to 35 million people and another 56 million are engaged in related activities. Around 14% of industrial production of the country is contributed by the sector. Indeed the apparel sector place a major role in Indian economy and also in foreign exchange earnings. Apparel exports contribute approximately 9% in Ind ias total exports earnings and accounts for about 4% of world trade in textiles and apparels. It is pertinent to mention that the apparel sector predominantly consist of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs). With the abolition of quota regime under WTO and opening of markets, there is competition from many countries to retain the existing global market share and also look for new markets. India has set a target under 11th plan to earn $ 50 billion through exports of textiles and apparels. To reach the target Indian apparel industry has to work on many fronts to be successful in a totally competitive international environment particularly focusing on factors like development of skilled human resource, quality and productivity, design development and product diversification and improving lead time and pricing, effective marketing management. Indian Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) alone cannot attain competitiveness without the support of likeminded international partners like German Technical Co operation (GTZ) to enhance the competitiveness of SMEs. Indeed GTZ is committed under SME Financing and Development Project for the development of apparel sector and identified it as the priority sector for intervention. Against the back ground the GTZ has undertaken the task of MSMEs competency building through business development services in Readymade garments cluster at Hyderabad with the support of Orient Craft Fashion Institute of Technology (OCFIT) particularly in preparing manual for sewing machine operators. In furtherance of the same, OCFIT with a view to assist development of readymade garment cluster in Hyderabad focusing around 50 RMGs (16 micro units, 14 small units and 20 medium and large units), studied their working pattern, commercial viability and prepared this manual to assist the sewing machine operators. Indeed this manual is prepared based on best international sewing practices world over with a focus on exports of readymade garments from India through SMEs.
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CHAPTER - II
SEWING MACHINE
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1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE

The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing machine, which turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible. In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing machine, but all existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs. Walter Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who is usually credited with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howes machines were run by hand. In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word because of his mass production of the sewing machine. He developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the hands free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on sales promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically powered models were not available until 1921). To save time and to keep control over production, entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many people in search of work to move to the cities where the factories were located. In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California in search of gold, a 20year old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco. In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim. They are an item of wearing apparel that has remained basically the same for nearly 150 years. Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms. The Union army recorded the chest an height measurements of more than a million soldiers to come up with the first standardization of sizes. After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass production of everyday mens wear.
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2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE

Historians of the early days of the sewing machine can argue for hours over the simple matter of who invented what is, in many ways, one of the most important machines ever devised. The story really starts in 1755 in London when a German immigrant, Charles Wiesenthal, took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. There was no mention of a machine to go with it, and another 34 years were to pass before Englishman Thomas Saint invented what is generally considered to be the first real sewing machine. In 1790 the cabinet maker patented a machine with which an awl made a hole in leather and then allowed a needle to pass through. Critics of Saint's claim to fame point out that quite possibly Saint only patented an idea and that most likely the machine was never built. It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's drawings it would not work without considerable modification. The story then moves to Germany where, in around 1810, inventor Balthasar Krems developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be given for the Krems models as no patents were taken out. An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger produced a series of machines during the early years of the 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention in 1839, aided by grants from the Austrian government, but he failed to get all the elements together successfully in one machine and eventually died a pauper. Two more inventions were patented in 1804, one in France to a Thomas Stone and a James Henderson -- a machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing -- and another to a Scott John Duncan for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of either invention. America's first real claim to fame came in 1818 when a Vermont churchman John Adams Doge and his partner John Knowles produced a device which, although making a reasonable stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before laborious re-setting up was necessary. One of the more reasonable claimants for inventor of the sewing machine must be Barthelme Thimmonier who, in 1830, was granted a patent by the French government. He used a barbed needle for his machine which was built almost entirely of wood. It is said that he originally designed the machine to do embroidery, but then saw its potential as a sewing machine.
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Unlike any others who went before him, he was able to convince the authorities of the usefulness of his invention and he was eventually given a contract to build a batch of machines and use them to sew uniforms for the French army. In less than 10 years after the granting of his patent Thimmonier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that, were his machines successful, they would soon take over from hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work. Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine, and causing Thimmonier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastlyimproved machine and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimmonier could expect little help from the police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage. He certainly produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer machines for sale on a commercial basis and ran the first garment factory. For all that, he died in the poor house in 1857. In America a quaker Walter Hunt invented, in 1833, the first machine which did not try to emulate hand sewing. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an eye-pointed needle as used today. But again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce short, straight, seams. Nine years later Hunt's countryman, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, there were no takers. Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. Probably because of miss-filing at the patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine. Despite a further flurry of minor inventions in the 1840s, most Americans will claim that the sewing machine was invented by Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe who completed his first prototype in 1844 just a short time after Fisher. A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his invention. He even arranged a competition with his machine set against the finest hand sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for mechanized sewing and, despite months of demonstrations, he had still not made a single sale. Desperately in debt Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only one backer, a corset maker William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine.
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The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers, including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines -- all of which contravened the Howe patents. A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents, and fought as a unit to protect their monopoly. Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer the hirepurchase system and aggressive sales tactics. Both Singer and Howe ended their days as multi-millionaires. So the argument can go on about just who invented the sewing machine and it is unlikely that there will ever be agreement. What is clear, however, is that without the work of those long-dead pioneers, the dream of mechanized sewing would never have been realized.
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3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:
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4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY The parts of the lockstitch machine, which are identified below.
Arm Bed The horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts. The working surface of the machine under winch is located the mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a flat bed machine, the bed rests In the cut-out of the table. The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to the hand wheel, allowing the machine to operate. The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring - that control the lower thread and Its tension. The part that fills another bobbin while the machine is stitching. A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides a. small amount of tension on the needle thread and acts as a shock absorber. On some machines, the check spring is mounted separately. The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the needle bar and the presser bar. The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves fabric forward and backward. The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that control the cloth during stitching. (balance or The part that controls the motion of the machine manually and/or electrically. The part of the machine above the table, containing the stitching mechanism. The back of the presser foot. A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the bobbin and form the lock on the lockstitch. A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the presser foot with the right knee. The electrical unit that drives the machine.
Belt (motor belt or machine belt) Bobbin Mechanism
Bobbin winder check spring (tension spring or take-up spring)
Faceplate
feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or feed) fly wheel) Fittings
Hand wheel flywheel) Head
Heel Hook(rotary hook or machine hook) Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee press) Motor
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Needle
The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to the hook or shuttle and up again to make the stitch. A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves the needle up and down. The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar. The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines. The metal pan. under the head that catches oil, lint and metal shards. On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil. The bar to which the presser foot is attached. A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot by hand. It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin and when not stitching.(Its use is discouraged in industrial sewing because it wastes time and energy). A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching. Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial) presser foot. A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that it will feed into the tension assembly evenly. The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from the motor to the hand wheel by means of a leather belt. The part that holds the bobbin case. An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the lock on the lockstitch. A metal hook or bar near the tension discs. A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed allows access to the lower mechanism. The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the cloth. A metal structure upon which the table is mounted. The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread into the hole so that it can interlock with the bobbin thread. A device that regulates stitch length. A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
Needle bar
Needle screw (needle bar clamp) Oil gauge Pan (machine pan)
Presser bar Presser bar lifter
Presser foot Pressure regulator
Pretension
Pulley
Rotary hook assembly Shuttle
Slack thread regulator Slide plate (slide or bed slide)
Sole (shoe or slipper) Stand Stitch hole (needle hole)
Stitch regulator Switch (power switch)
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Table
The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a drawer on the left side. The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch formation, then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch. A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever. Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper thread from the spool to the needle. The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone (thread eyelets) to the needle. They smooth the thread and protect it from abrasion.
Take-up lever
Take-up lever guard Tension discs
Thread guides (thread eyelets)
Thread retainer (pretension)
A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread so it win flow into the tension discs uniformly. A metal device that holds thread cones. The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that includes the stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It protects the lower mechanism from a build-up of excess lint. The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the oncoming cloth. It is frequently upturned. On feet such as the zipper foot, cording foot, and shirring foot, there is only one toe. A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident, the clutch control releases the hand wheel so that it can be turned).
Thread stand Throat plate
Toes (Prongs)
Treadle (foot treadle)
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5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

A. MULTI NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE
Imperial multi-needle pleat gauges for tuxedo front shirts - both men's and ladies'. Several pleat types are available; including exposed and covered types illustrated above. Attachments available for Union Special 54400 (type 401 stitch) machines or 52 Class (type 101 stitch) machine. Exact finish size and samples are required. Please Submit Samples with Order. Both Union Special 54400 and Imperial 52 Class machines also available.
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B. OVERLOCK MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used Type of lubrication Oil used Type of feed Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 5 Cylindrical bed Loops attaching 3/4HP
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C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 5 Cylindrical bed Loops attaching 3/4HP
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D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 17 Cylindrical bed Button sewing 3/4HP
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E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used Type of lubrication Oil used Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Lock stitch [bobbin, bobbin case are used]. 3600 -4000[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G1 DP X 5 Raised bed Making button holes 3/4HP
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F. FEED OF THE ARM
Chine stitch 4000[s.p.m/r.p.m] Clutch motor Automatic & manuals G1 Needle feed TV X 1orTV X 64 Cylindrical bed Joining sleeves, side of trouser 1/2 HP
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6. MEASURING TOOLS
Paper Scissors Fabric Scissors
Seam ripper
Measuring Tape
Tracing Wheel Trimmer
Measuring Scale Pencil & Eraser

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CHAPTER-III
SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES
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The Candidate for the SMO Training Programme must have the minimum qualification of 8th Standard. The Candidates age preferably should be between 18 to 25 years. The objective of the program is to meet the skill requirements of the apparel industry and to create gainful employment opportunities for rural BPL families in apparel industry. So, keeping in view the requirements of the industry, the candidate for the SMO Programme has to pass through the following tests: 1. PEG BOARD TEST
The Peg Board Test is conducted to know the hand movement of the candidate. The Purdue Pegboard has been used extensively for various applications. It has two types of activity: one measures gross movements of the hands, fingers, and arms, and the other measures assembly or fingertip dexterity. The Peg Board Test consists of a rectangular board that holds cylindrical pegs. The pegs are approximately two inch (2.5 cm) in height, and are colored red on one side, black on the other. Two tests were chosen for this research. The peg board test requires subjects to transfer the pegs from one hole in the tray to another. The peg board test requires subjects to pick up a peg, transfer it to the other hand while turning it over, and replace it with the opposite side facing up. The operator will be given 80 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the exercises given in the given span of period.
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2. COLOR BLINDNESS TEST The colour blindness test used test to check color vision deficiencies. There are different sets available which are often used for pilot, police officer and other job recruitments, where perfect colour vision is a precondition. This is a test plate in which everyone should see a "12".
This plate is designed to separate the type of color defectives and the level to which they are observed. Most will see the number "26" clearly while some will only see a "2" or a "6" or no numerals at all.
Can you trace a line from one "X" to the other? Someone with normal color vision will trace an orange/brown purple line and those with a slight deficiency will follow a different path.
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Some of the Examples are:
The operator will be shown 10 figures. Each carries 5 sec of time. The operator must be able to recognize the Letter or Number which is in the Figure in the given span of time.
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3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST Example:

8 5 3 2 7 1 6 9 4 10
Practice:
Visual Dexterity test is the crucial one which plays major role in knowing the Eye Coordination of the operator. Eye coordination is a crucial skill involving how effective we are at translating what our eyes see into appropriate physical responses, such as anticipating the motion of a line in its way so that we could find out the exact destiny of the line. The operator will be given two exercises; each carries 30 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the exercises given in the given span of period.
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CHAPTER-IV TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
1. PAPER EXERCISES
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A.
Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 1
DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
Goal: 6 Seconds Illustration:
Exercise Number : Paper Exercise #1
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. stop at the end of the column with the needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next column. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew the second line until the end. Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the third column.
Security Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within the column limits Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal
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chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Pedal control Straight stitches centered at a 3/8 at maximum velocity. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material SNLS without thread Paper exercise #1
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B.
Precise stops at maximum speed
MACHINE: SNLS
START
EXERCISE 2
DURATION: 6 SECS
STOP
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Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 6 Seconds
Exercise Number : Paper exercise # 2
Exercise : Precise stops at maximum speed Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. st stop at the end of the 1 column with the needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next column. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew the second line until the end. Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the third column. Illustration:
Security Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within the column limits Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal
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chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Pedal control Straight stitches centered at a 3/8 at maximum velocity. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material SNLS without thread Paper exercise #2
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C.
Straight stitches at maximum velocity
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 3
DURATION: 10 SECS
START
STOP
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Straight stitches at maximum velocity
Goal : 10 Seconds
Exercise Number : Paper exercise #3
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle with the needle at the top position. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the second dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the needle in the top position. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line.
Illustration:
Note: Security
Each cycle includes two lines
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within Boundaries. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
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Back rest facing forward.
Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at 118 margin. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material SNLS without thread Paper exercise #3
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D.
Change of Direction with Needle Down
MACHINE:SNLS
EXERCISE 4
DURATION: 10 SECS
START STOP Page | 38
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 10 Seconds
Exercise Number : Paper exercise:4
Exercise : Change of Direction with Needle Down Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches lie over doffed line. Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches the square. Make sure the stitches do not leave the square. Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise. Lower machines foot and sew towards next square. Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches square. Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches lie over dotted line and stop when the last square is reached. Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Lower machines foot. stop chronometer when the machines foot is lowered
Illustration:
Note: SECURITY
Each cycle contains 3 lines and 2 90 turns.
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. -] Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair. QUALITY Do not tear paper. Make turns with needle at down position and within
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square limits. 1/16 Misalignment with dotted line. ERGONOMICS Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. WASTE Throw away used paper. Use paper several times ABILITIES DEVELOPED Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity. Use of push button to control machines foot. NECESSARY MATERIALS SNLS without thread Paper exercise #4
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E.
Sewing Curve with One Hand
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 5
DURATION: 6 SECS
STOP
START
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Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 6 seconds
Exercise : Sewing Curve with One Hand Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: Illustration:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line using only the LH on the paper, turning the wrist. Stop at the end of the line with the needle on the top position. Slide the paper with the LH while the machine foot is at the uppermost position. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle to start the second cycle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.
Security: Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality: Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at +/-1/16" with respect to line. Sew without stopping.
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Ergonomics: Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste: Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities Developed: Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machines foot. Necessary Materials: SNLS without thread Paper exercise #5
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F.
Sewing in Circles
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 6
DURATION: 34 SECS
START
STOP
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Sewing in Circles
Goal: 14 seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology:
Illustration:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line without stopping, turning the paper to form an eight. Use index fingers to pivot paper. stop at the end with the needle on the top position. Turn and slide the paper while the machine foot is at the uppermost position towards the next cycle. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next cycle.
Security Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at /-l/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
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Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machine foot. Necessary SNLS without thread Paper exercise # 6
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G.
Judging changes of direction
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 7
DURATION: 20 SECS
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Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 20 Seconds
Exercise : Judging changes of direction.
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a V- shape line so that stitches lie over doffed line. Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches the V- shape. Make sure the stitches do not leave the V- shape. Lift the foot and turn the paper 90 clockwise. Lower machines foot and sew towards next V- shape . Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice reaches V- shape . Lift the foot and turn the paper 60 clockwise. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches lie over dotted line and stop when the last V- shape is reached. Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Lower machines foot. stop chronometer when the machines foot is lowered
Illustration:
Note: Security
Each cycle contains 8 lines and 7 60 turns.
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. -] Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. Make turns with needle at down position and within square limits. 1/16 Misalignment with dotted line. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine.
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Both feet on pedal chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity. Use of push button to control machines foot. Necessary material SNLS without thread Paper exercise # 7
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H.
Sewing curves
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE 8
DURATION: 20 SECS
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Sewing curves
Goal: 20 Seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology:
Illustration:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed following the curved line without stopping. Use index fingers to pivot paper. Stop at the end with the needle on the top position.. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is set for the next curve.
Security Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. Maintain margin at /-l/16 with respect to line. Sew without stopping. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
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Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. Changing direction without stopping. Use of push button to control machine foot. Necessary materials SNLS without thread Paper exercise # 8
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I.
O / L Sewing straight line
MACHINE: O/L
EXERCISE 9
DURATION: 10 SECS
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Machine:
O/L
Goal: 10 Seconds
Exercise : O / L Sewing straight line Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the pressure foot. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle with the needle at the top position. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the second line lies directly under the pressure foot. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the needle in the top position. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line. Illustration:
Security Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within Boundaries. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Left feet on pedal & right feet on lifter. Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
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Waste Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at 118 margin. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material O / L without thread Paper exercise #9
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J.
O / L Exact stop
MACHINE: O/L
EXERCISE 10
DURATION: 20 SECS
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Machine:
O/L
Goal: 20 Seconds
Exercise : O / L Exact stop Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the pressure foot. Sew at maximum speed in a line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight line with the needle and turn to 120 and stitch correspondingly.. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the second line lies directly under the pressure foot. Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has reached the end of the line, keeping in the top position. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the pressure foot. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line. Security Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper inside of the lines.. The stitch line should remain straight and within Boundaries. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Left feet on pedal & right feet on lifter. Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Illustration:
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K.
Sewing curves
MACHINE: O/L
EXERCISE 11
DURATION: 15 SECS
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Sewing curves
Goal: 20 Seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the line lies directly under the pressure foot. Sew at maximum speed in a line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight line with the needle and turn to 120 and stitch correspondingly.. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the second line lies directly under the pressure foot. Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has reached the end of the line, keeping in the top position. Lift the machines foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the pressure foot. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line.
Illustration:
Security Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper inside of the lines.. The stitch line should remain straight and within Boundaries. Ergonomics Sited in front of the sewing machine. Left feet on pedal & right feet on lifter. Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
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2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread

1. Turn the machine off and remove your feet from the treadle. If there is no needle in the machine, run the machine out. Then insert a new needle. Check to be sure there is no lint or dust between the tensions discs or in the thread guide. 2. Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest point. 3. Place the thread on the thread stand. Then pass the thread over the guide at the top of the thread stand and through the hole in the spool pin(s). 4. Guide the thread into the right (or top) hole of the needle-thread retainer. Then, guide it through the center hole and, finally the bottom (or left) hole. 5. Guide the thread between the tension discs. Pull it into the check spring and under the slack thread retainer or vertical bar. 6. Guide the thread from right to left into the eye of the take-up lever. 7. Guide the thread through the remaining guides. The last thread guide is located directly above the long groove on the needle. 8. Trim the thread end as needed and thread it into the eye of the needle from left to right. Note: The thread always threads from the long eye or groove on one side of the needle to the short eye on the other 9. Pull the thread end about 3 (15cm) and hold the thread loosely in your left band. 10. Release the brake and turn the hand wheel so that the needle moves down and up again to catch the bobbin thread. If the thread doesnt come up, check the machine threading. Remove the bobbin case, rethread, and insert again Note: If you continue to turn the hand wheel, you may create a thread jam. 11. Pull the needle thread taut to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle hole. 12. Pull both threads between the prongs or toes of the foot, and then under the presser foot to the back of the machine leaving a 5 (15cm) tail. 13. Draw the thread path for a lockstitch machine.
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B. Threading the bobbin case
1. Removing the bobbin case Raise the bobbin case latch to remove the bobbin case 2. Threading the bobbin case Pass the thread through the slit 1 in the bobbin case and route it under tension spring 2 Hold the large of the bobbin case and set the bobbin case into the hook.
Place the bobbin in the case taking care of the winding direction of the thread.(The bobbin should turn in the direction of arrow B when the thread is pulled in the direction of arrow A)
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C. Bobbin winding
1) Route the thread in the order of A, B, and C, and then wind it round the bobbin several times. 2) Set bobbin presser 1 down to make the winder come in contact with the belt. 3) Adjust adjustment screw 2 of the amount of bobbin thread to be wound round the bobbin so that the bobbin is wound with thread about 80%.Turn the adjustment screw 2 clockwise to increase the bobbin thread amount or counterclockwise to decrease it. 4) If thread is wound unevenly, move winder tension adjust base 3 to the right or left until it is correctly positioned. 5) The moment the bobbin has been wound up, the bobbin presser is released, and the bobbin winder will stop automatically.
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3. FABRIC EXERCISES TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
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A. Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, SEWING OFF DURATION: 15 SECS
6
6 X 6
Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material.
Goal:15 Seconds
Exercise Number : Fabric Exercise #1
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with Both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place material close to the apprentice. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH simultaneously. Move fabric to the front, and lift machine toot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4" margin. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of 1/4". Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise, Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4 margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of V.. Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4" margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of 1/4" Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Lift machine foot and tum cloth counterclockwise. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4" margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, respecting the margin 1/4" Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with The needle. Quality Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16). Ergonomics chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
Illustration:
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forward.
Waste Use fabric various times while practicing. Abilities Developed Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Pedal control. Consistency in margins.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 x 6 fabric Scissors
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B. Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, STAYING WITH IN DURATION: 18 SECS
6
6 X 6
Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material
Goal: 18 Seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place fabric close to the apprentice. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH simultaneously. Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot, Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly 1/4 from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of 1/4 (+-1/16). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise, Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16). stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly % from the edge, Lift machine foot and turn cloth counterclockwise, Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16) Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads, Timekeeper stops the chronometer. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Quality Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16). Ergonomics chair and Machineat a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
Illustration:
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Waste Use fabric various times while practicing. Abilities Developed Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Pedal control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Necessary Materials SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 x 6 fabric Scissors
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C. Sewing 6 x 6 back tack

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, BACKTACK DURATION: 21 SECS
Seam Type
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Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 12 Seconds
Exercise : Sewing 6 x 6 back tack Starting Position: Sit straight with two feet on the treadle. Keep the trimmer so as to access easily. Methodology: Pick two pieces of the fabrics one with each hand. Align the fabric while moving to the needle. Place the fabric under the needle! 1/4 from its top & 1/4 from its side. Start sewing, with back tack Stop sewing at 1/4 from the bottom edge with needle down. Turn the fabric CCW 90 deg & start sewing in the same way for next 3 sides. When sewing the 4th side! Stop where the stitch has started & back tack (3 to 4 stitches). Illustration:
Security Keep away fingers from the needle.
Quality Perfect alignment & regular stitch margin of 1/4 Sharp corners. Number of back tack stitches. Avoid fullness. Ergonomics Keep two bundles one on each side of the body. Waste
Abilities Developed Completely set SNLS machine.6 x 6 fabric pieces.
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Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread cone 2 Bobbins 6 x 6 fabric scissors
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D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 3 SIDES 6 X 12 DURATION: 21 SECS
12
Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12
Goal:14 Seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place fabric close to the operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take corners of fabric with both hands. Lift machine root. Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16)). Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise with LH. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, respecting the margin of (+-1/16) Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly 1/4 from the edge. Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise. Lower machine foot. Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, respecting the margin of 1/4 (+.l/16). Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16). Ergonomics chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
Illustration:
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Waste Use fabric various times while practicing. Abilities Developed Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Pedal control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 thread cone 2 bobbins. 6 x 6 fabric Scissors
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E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: 6 X 12 TOP STITCH DURATION: 14 SECS
12
Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS 12 X 6 Top stitch
Goal: 14 Seconds
Starting Position: With both legs on treadle, pressure foot up. Methodology: Pick up the fabric from the side at the corners facing towards you with both hands. Keep RH side open corner near (under) the needle make sure of the stitch margin (1/4) using the scale near needle. Put presser foot down. Start sewing maintaining straight line & stitch margin. Stop the needle at 1/4 from both sides. At that time needle should be down . Turn the fabric 90 Degrees anticlockwise. Start sewing st line and margin of 1/4. Keeping needle down at that point , turn fabric 90 deg anticlockwise and sew off maintaining st. line and margin Lift the presser foot with knee lift and pull the fabric with left hand. Take the trimmer with RH and cut the thread. Time starts right from picking to the cutting of the thread. No back tack
Illustration:
Security When placing the fabric under needle, needle should be up. Quality Alignment should be proper; stitch should be straight; stitch margin of 1/4. Ergonomics . Trimmers should be small but easy to handle and operate. Waste While cutting the thread dont pull more thread. Abilities Developed Alignment of parts; Maintaining the margin without the help of guides Stopping the machine where ever we want with needle down. Hands and eye coordination for faster turning of parts.
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Necessary Materials 12x12 Fabric Trimmer.
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F.
Backtack 6x 1`2
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE: BACKTACK 6 12 X 12
DURATION: 20SECS
12
Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Backtack 6x 1`2
Goal: 15 Seconds
Starting Position: Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let both feet be on the treadle. Methodology: This exercise is carried on the fabric which comes from the exercise 12x6 top stitch. Initial markings have to be done on the fabric for backtacking. For this fold the given fabric, such that both edges coincide and crease at the center. Now fold on the folded fabric, such that edges coincides & crease. When the folded fabric is opened, it looks as indicated in sketch[2]. Now you see three crease lines at A.B,C. Mark 3/8 above and creased line.(A).Repeat above said step for B and c. The fabric is ready for backtacking. Places at which back tacking have to be carried out are indicated in sketch 4. Backtack at point-I and sew tilt pcint-2 and at potnt-2 backtack and sew till -3 and at point-4 backtack and sew till point-5 backtack & stop. Now the fabric should be as shown in sketch (5J. At point-5 stop and cut the thread using clipper and dispose. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Line sewn should be straight and length of backtacking should be within the boundary with an allowance of one stitch on either side, i.e. half a stitch outside or inside the band is ok, no more Ergonomics chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste Use fabric various times while practicing.
Illustration:
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Abilities Developed Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Pedal control. Cutting, Disposing and Stacking. Exact stops. Backtacking only within the boundary marked
Necessary Materials SNLS Thread Bobbin 12 x 6 fabric Scissors
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G. Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: HEMMING 6 7/8 X 6, INCHAIN DURATION: 18SECS
1/2
5 Seam Type
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Machine: Exercise :
SNLS Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
Goal: 30 Seconds
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place fabric close to the operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Take fabric with LH. Fold fabric lightly on one side. Move towards machine foot. Lift machine foot. Verify the fold is . Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin. Lower machine foot. Sew fabric with rhythm guiding it with the RH while the LH takes another fabric. Repeat the previous instructions until 5 pieces are sewn. Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. Timekeeper stops the chronometer. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with The needle. Use safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Illustration:
Quality Maintain a margin of (+-1/16) Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste Use fabric various times while practicing.
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Abilities Developed Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. Pedal control. Consistency in margins. Exact stops. Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread cone 2 Bobbins 6 x 6 fabric Scissors
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CHAPTER - V MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART
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1.
GRADE: SIZE: 1 2 3 4 5 Bust: Waist; Abdomen: Hip: UPPER TORSO (bodice): Center length: Front Back Full length: Front Back Shoulder slope: Front Back Strap: Front Bust depth: Bust radius Bust span: Side length: Back neck: Shoulder length: Across shoulder: Front Back Across chest: Across back: Bust arc: Back arc: Waist arc: Front Back Dart placement: LOWER TORSO (Skirt/Pant): Abdominal arc: Front Back Hip arc: Front Back Crotch depth: Hip depth: Center front Center back Side hip depth: Waist to ankle: Waist to Floor: Waist to Knee: Crotch Length Vertical Trunk
CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
1" 6 34 24 32 1/2 35 1/2 1" 8 35 25 33 1/2 36 1/2 1 1/2" 12 37 1/2 27 1/2 36 39 1 1/2" 14 39 29 37 1/2 40 1/2 1 1/2" 16 40 1/2 30 1/2 39 42 2" 18 42 1/2 32 1/2 41 44
10 36 26 34 1/2 37 1/2
14 1/2 16 3/4 17 17 1/4 16 1/2 16 1/4 9 1/2 9 2 3/4 3 1/2 8 1/4 2 3/4 5 1/8 7 1/4 7 3/8 6 6 3/4 9 1/4 8 1/2 6 1/4 5 3/4 3
14 3/4 17 17 3/8 17 5/8 17 16 2/3 9 3/4 9 1/8 2 7/8 3 5/8 8 3/8 2 7/8 5 1/5 7 3/8 7 1/2 61/4 6 7/8 9 1/2 8 3/4 6 1/2 6 3 1/8
15 17 1/4 17 3/4 18 17 1/4 17 1/8 10 9 1/4 3 3 3/4 8 1/2 3 5 1/4 7 1/2 7 5/8 6 3/8 7 9 3/4 9 6 3/4 6 1/4 3 1/4
15 1/4 17 1/2 18 1/8 18 3/8 17 4/5 17 4/7 10 3/8 9 3/8 3 1/8 3 7/8 8 5/8 3 1/8 5 3/8 7 2/3 7 4/5 6 4/7 7 1/5 10 1/8 9 3/8 7 1/8 6 5/8 3 3/8
15 1/2 17 3/4 18 1/2 18 3/4 18 1/4 18 10 3/4 9 1/2 3 1/4 4 8 3/4 3 1/4 5 1/2 7 7/8 8 6 3/4 7 3/8 10 1/2 9 3/4 7 1/2 7 3 1/2
15 3/4 18 18 7/8 19 1/8 18 2/3 18 4/9 11 1/8 9 5/8 3 3/8 4 1/8 8 7/8 3 3/8 5 5/8 8 8 1/5 7 7 4/7 10 7/8 10 1/8 7 7/8 7 3/8 3 5/8
16 18 1/4 19 1/4 19 1/2 19 1/8 18 7/8 11 5/8 10 3 4 9 3 5 4/5 8 1/3 8 4/9 7 1/5 7 4/5 11 3/8 10 5/8 8 3/8 7 7/8 3
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19
20 21
8 1/4 7 1/2 8 1/2 9 9 1/2 8 1/2 8 1/4 8 3/4 37 39 22 1/2 24 1/2 60
8 1/2 7 3/4 8 3/4 9 1/4 9 3/4 8 3/4 8 1/2 9 37 1/2 39 1/2 22 5/8 25 1/4 61
8 3/4 8 9 9 1/2 10 9 8 3/4 9 1/4 38 23 26 62
9 1/8 8 3/8 9 1/4 9 7/8 10 1/4 9 1/4 9 9 1/2 38 1/2 40 23 3/8 26 3/4 63 1/2
9 1/2 8 3/4 9 1/2 10 1/4 10 1/2 9 1/2 9 1/4 93/4 39 40 23 3/4 27 1/2 65
9 7/8 9 1/8 10 1/8 10 5/8 10 3/4 9 3/4 9 1/2 10 39 1/2 41 1/2 24 1/8 28 1/4 66 1/2
10 3/8 9 5/8 10 5/8 11 1/8 11 10 9 10 40 42 24 29 68
22
23 24
25 26
27
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28 29 30 31
Upper Thigh Mid Thigh Knee Calf Ankle
19 1/2 17 13 11 9 1/2
20 1/4 17 1/2 13 1/2 11 1/2 9 3/4
21 18 14 12 10
22 18 3/4 14 1/2 12 1/2 10 1/4
23 19 1/2 15 13 10 1/2
24 20 1/4 15 1/2 13 1/2 10 3/4
25 21 16 14 11
2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN
AGE GROUP 3-9 MOUNTHS 1YEARS 2YEARS 3YEARS 4YEARS 5YEARS 6YEARS 7YEARS 8YEARS 9YEARS 10 YEARS 11YEARS
CHEAST
WAIST
WAIST LENGTH 6'' 7'' 8'' 9'' 9 1/2'' 10'' 10 1/2'' 11'' 11 1/2'' 12'' 12 1/2'' 13''
ACROSS BACK 8'' 8 1/2'' 8 3/4'' 9'' 9 1/2'' 10'' 10 1/2'' 11'' 11 1/2'' 12'' 12 1/2'' 13''
SHORT SLEEVE 2 3/4'' 3'' 3 1/4'' 3 1/2'' 4'' 4 1/2'' 4 3/4'' 5'' 5 1/2'' 6'' 6 1/2'' 7''
LONG SLEEVE 6 1/2'' 7'' 8'' 8 3/4'' 9 1/2'' 11'' 11 1/2'' 12'' 12 1/2'' 13'' 13 1/2'' 14''
FULL LENGTH 14'' 16'' 16'' 20'' 20 1/2'' 22'' 22 1/2'' 23-24'' 24 1/2'' 26 1/2'' 26 1/2-27 '' 27''
HIP
19'' 20'' 21'' 22'' 23'' 24'' 24 1/2'' 25'' 26'' 27'' 28'' 28''
19'' 19''-20'' 20''-21'' 21'' 22'' 23'' 24 1/2'' 25'' 25'' 25'' 26'' 28 1/2''
18'' 20'' 22'' 24'' 25'' 26 1/2'' 27'' 27 1/2'' 28'' 28 1/0'' 29'' 30''
3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS

AGE GROUP CHEAST WAIST CENTER BACK WAIST LENGTH HIP SLEEVE LENGTH
12-13YEARS 30'' 24'' 12 1/2'' 12 1/2'' 32'' 16 1/2''
14-15 YEARS 32'' 25'' 13'' 13 1/2'' 34'' 17''
16-17 YEARS 34'' 25 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 14 1/2'' 36'' 17 1/2''
18-19 YEARS 35'' 26'' 14'' 15'' 37'' 18''
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CHAPTER - VI MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
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A. Safety- Rules
Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place. To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times. When in doubt, ask the instructor Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor. Report a breakage to a tool or machine to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate properly, notify the instructor immediately. Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping. Keep aisles clear at all times. Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate. Operate machine. only when the instructor or laboratory assistant is present. Operate machines only with permission. Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place. Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor. When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair is long, tie it back. Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height 5) that your feet rest flat on the floor. Do not I your chair forward or toward while operate he machine. Use both hands to raise and lower the machine head. Always keep your head above the table. Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle. Turn the motor off before you are not stitching. Turn the motor off before cleaning, Oiling or adjusting the machine.
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Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out. Waft until all motion has stopped. Turn the motor off in case of an emergency or when in doubt. Turn the motor off before unplugging the machine. When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord. Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel. Use your hand only to set the hand wheel. Before operating the machine, close the slide bed cover. Before operating the machine, be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly placed. When operating the machine, do not be careless~ When operating the machine, do not talk with your colleagues. When operating the machine, keep your attention on your work and hands. When operating the machine, keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle. When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from the belt. Keep the machine and work station clean with an tools in the side drawer. Use the proper needle for the job. Do not stitch over pins or put them in your mouth. When the machine is not in use, lower the foot and needle. Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong. Unplug the machine at the end of the day. Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency. Do not remove any safety devices from the machines. Turn off the iron at the of the class. Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover. Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over.
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When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket. Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person. Never toss or throw scissors or equipment. Do not eat, drink, or smoke in the work area.
B. Important safety instructions

Putting sewing systems into operation is prohibited until it has been ascertained that the sewing systems in which these sewing machines will be built into, have conformed with the safety regulations in your country. Technical service for those sewing systems is also prohibited. Observe the basic safety measures, including, but not limited to the following ones, whenever you use the machine. Read all the instructions, including, but not limited to this Instruction Manual before you use the machine. In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary. Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/standards valid in your Country. All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation. The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed. This machine shall be operated by appropriately-trained operators. For your personal protection, we recommend that you wear safety glasses. For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the machine from the receptacle. For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin. For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle guard, folder, cloth guide etc. For repair work. When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended. When using clutch motors without applying brake, it has to be waited until the motor stopped totally. If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact with your eyes or
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skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and consult a medical doctor. Tampering with the live parts and devices, regardless of whether the machine is powered, is prohibited. Repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained technicians or
General maintenance and inspection works have to be done by appropriately

personnel.
trained
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C. Machine adjustments and control Adjusting the Stitch Length Regulator

The stitch length regulator controls the distance that the feed dogs move the material to the back of the machine to make a single stitch. On newer machines, the stitch length regulator is often a large knob or a lever on the front of the machine, making It easy to regulate. On older machines however, the stitch length regulator is more difficult to locate and reset and ft rarely has a guide indicating the setting. On most newer machines, the length of each stitch is Indicated In millimeters (mm). On other machines, the number of stitches per inch(SPI) is Indicated. This latter method is easier to use when adjusting the stitch length regulator. These general directions can be used for most machines, however, when a machine manual is available, ft is always wise to review the directions in it. 1. Begin with the power switch on arid the machine unthreaded. Place a piece of paper under the foot and stitch a straight line about 3 long. 2. Remove the paper from the machine. Mark off 2(5cm), placing the first mark midway between two needle perforations. Begriming at the first perforation following the first mark, count the number of perforations between the two marks. If the second line is between two perforations, add an additional perforation. 3. To determine the number of stitches per inch (SPI), divide the number of perforations by two - the number of inches stitched. There are 20 perforations between the two marks, there are 10 SPI. 4. To determine the number of stitches per centimeter (SPO), divide by five - the number of centimeters stitched. If there are 20 perforations between the two lines, there are 4 SPC. 5. To determine the number of millimeters in a stitch, divide the number of millimeters in a stitch, divide the number of millimeters (10) In a centimeter by the number of SPO (stitches/cm). If there are 4 SPC, each stitch Is 2.5mm (4 divided by 10) long. 6. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm or 1OSPL. Stitch 3. Mark off a 2 section, then count the stitches to confirm the accuracy of the setting. Repeat to set the stitch length to 1.5mm (17 SPI), 2 (12 SPI). 3mm (8.8SPI), and 4 mm (6 SPI). Record your measurements In Table.
No. of stitches/ inch = 8
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Stitch Length Measurements

Machine 301 301 301 301 301 301 Stitch length Setting 1mm 1.5mm 2mm 2.5mm 3mm 4mm No. of Stitches per inch
Testing the tension

For most stitching, a desired. When the tension of the material to make a elastic without being loose, stressed. balance tension or is balanced, the threads perfect or balanced stitch. and there is no seam grin balanced stitch is interlock in the middle The seam is flat and when the seam is
Balanced Tension
Tight upper tension
Tight lower tension
If there is too much pressure on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the tension is right. The material puckers the seam is strained, and the stitches break. If there is too little pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loose, and the seam is loose and weak. When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too tight or the tension on the bottom or bobbin thread is too loose, the top thread lies along the surface of the material and the bobbin thread forms loops on the top.
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When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom, or bobbin, thread is too tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top thread forms loops on the underside.
Adjusting the tension

The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls: the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw. The upper tension regulator is located on the front of the machine and adjusts the tension discs.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case controls the tightness of the bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as they fed through the machine. Because the structure, texture, thickness, density, and resiliency of the material and the size and type of the thread affect the tension, the tension settings will vary with the material and the thread size and type. Test the tension before beginning a garment or sewing with a different fabric, thread, or machine. 1. Identity the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw. 2. Set the stitch length for 2 mm (128P1). Turn the upper tension regulator to the right 1/4 to 1/2 turn. 3. Fold one muslin rectangle in half crosswise and stitch on the straight grain about 1/2 from the edge. 4. Examine the stitching to determine whether the stitching is balanced or unbalanced. If the needle tension is tight the needle thread lies flat on the top ply and loops of the bobbin
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thread are visible, If the bobbin tension Is tight, the bobbin thread lies flat and the loops of the needle thread are visible.
5. Adjust the bobbin tension first. To determine if it needs an adjustment, place the filled bobbin In the bobbin case. Hold the end of the bobbin thread and jerk the thread slightly. It should drop several Inches. If it slides freely down the thread, it needs more tension; if doesnt slide, it needs less. a. If it needs an adjustment, use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw on the bobbin case. For more tension, turn the screw in small increments and no more than 1/4 turn between tests. b. Caution: The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far. 6. To adjust the needle thread tension turn the tension regulator to the left to loosen it; turn it to the right to tighten. 7. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced. 8. Experiment with stitching on a variety of fabrics.
Machine Maintenance
In the apparel industry, a clean, well-oiled machine is essential for safety and good performance, the same is true in the classroom. Generally cleanliness is the responsibility of the operators, including students who use the machines. The machines are given a quick cleaning after every eight hours of operation and a thorough cleaning once a week. When sewing materials that produce a lot of lint, the machines are cleaned more frequently. Machine maintenance is also important in preventing stitching faults. Although stitching faults can be caused by the material, machine, or operator, most can be corrected by cleaning the machine, rethreading it, and/or changing the needle. In most plants, a quick cleaning is done by the operators once a day, but the responsibility for the more thorough cleaning varies from plant to plant. In some factories, it is done by the operators on Friday afternoon. In others, it is done by a mechanic - often, when the operators are not working.
Cleaning the Machine

When cleaning the machine, clean everything - the machine mechanism, machine table and stand, your tools, work station area, and even your hands - to avoid soiling the materials being sewn, prevent accidents, and avoid wear and damage to the machine. These directions focus on the lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted for other machine types.
Materials/Supplies
Paint brush (1/2 wide) Clear disposable cloth or clean rag Screwdriver Sewing machine manual (when available)
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Air hose or industrial vacuum cleaner (when available)
Caution: Before cleaning any machine, turn off the machine and run it out. 1. Open the slide and remove the bobbin case, and then remove the throat plate. Occasionally remove the face plate from the left end of the head. 2. Brush or blow away any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dogs and rotary hook or shuttle. Do not use anything hard, such as a screw driver or scissor points, to remove the lint. When cleaning the over lock machine, open the cloth plate and looper cover to blow out any lint in those areas. On the blind stitch machine, open the plate to expose and clean the area around the spreader. 3. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially; brush again. 4. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the table. 5. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads in the lower part of the machine. Use a rag to remove any lint on the machines mechanism, excess oil in the pan, and, if appropriate, the oil pump screen. 6. If the machine is not self-oiling, consult the manual for oiling directions. If the manual is not available, place one drop of oil on each moving part on the lower mechanism. 7. Press the knee lift to the right and lower the machine head into position. 8. Replace all plates and screws. 9. Oil the upper mechanism by placing a c p of oil in each oil bole 10. Replace the bobbin case. 11. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged. 12. Replace the needle if necessary. 13. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, thread stand, motor, table and stand. 14. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the tension discs and remove any lint. 15. If you have oiled the machine, sew on a few scraps to remove any excess oil. 16. Wash your hands after cleaning and oiling the machine. 17. At the end of the day, put a piece of stitching patch under the foot, lower the foot, cover the machine, and pick up any trash.
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CHAPTER - VII
NEEDLE
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1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
Basic Skills
To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as needed; and select appropriate thread.
Setting the Needle

In the apparel industry, there are literally thousands of different machines, each requiring a different needle type. On most newer machines, the needle type for that particular machine is identified on the machine head. However, each needle manufacturer identified its needles in a different way; the needles for the same type of system may have several different names or numbers, depending on the manufacturer. Directions: 1. Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel until the needle moves machines; you will turn the counterclockwise - the direction operating. 2. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen the screw in the needle bar just enough to release the needle.
Changing the needle

3. Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove any broken parts that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the shank remains in the needle bar after the screw is loosened, tap the needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does not Fall out, turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the vibration causes the needle to drop out.
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4. Dispose of the needle safely. 5. Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch a small hole in the top of a discarded film container. 6. Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled. Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point. 7. To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread. 8. Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the needle correctly. 9. Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank where the groove begins. 10. Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is generally to the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is facing the side with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible. 11. Tighten the needle bar screw. 12. Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there will be no skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove the needle and reset it.
Reasons to Change a Needle

There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. The needle is damaged: bent, burred, or broken. The needle is dull and makes a popping sound when stitching The thread breaks frequently during stitching. The machine is skip stitching. A different thread size is required. A different fabric is sewn with a different weight, thickness and construction.
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2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS

1. Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single-point contact with the hole in the needle bar. 2. Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar by the needle screw. The shank is usually round, but it can have one or two flat sizes. Designed to support and stabilize the needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger than the diameter of the blade. 3. Shoulder: The beginning of the shank just above the needle blade. 4. Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the shank to the eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for straightness periodically. 5. Scarf (needle scarf, clearance above the eye, clearance cut, or spot): A small indentation above the eye that permits the hook or looper to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread loop will be large enough to prevent skip stitching. 6. Land: A small hump on the blade immediately above the eye. Used instead of a scarf, its purpose is to enable the needle thread to make a larger loop and form a stitch. 7. Eye: An opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the long groove that carries the thread into the material to the hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of the eye is proportional to the diameter of the blade. 8. Point: The tapered end. It is often considered the most critical aspect of the needle. The most common needles have a round point, a ballpoint, or a cutting point as shown on page 44. Generally round points and ballpoints are used for woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading the fibers or deflecting the yarns without damaging them. By contrast, needles with cutting points are used for leather. 9. Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material. 10. Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on which the need dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread when the needle is rising and the needle- thread loop is enlarging.
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11. Short groove: A short channel immediately above the needle eye. Located on the side opposite the long groove, it is a guide for the needle thread and protects it from abrading when passing through the material.
Needle Selection Once the needle system type Is determined, the needle selection - its needle point and size depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type, and stitch type. Needle point
The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have a conical shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many knitted materials. Ballpoint needles have a rounded point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned buttons and do not cut existing stitches. Cutting points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene.
Needle Size
The needle size can be as small as 60 (0-6mm) or as large as 250 (2.5 mm). The metric size describes the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter. The needle size is determined by the thread size. If the needle is too fine, it will abrade the thread bend, break, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches. if it is too course, it will damage the fabric, produce an unattractive seam, cause the seam to pucker, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches. Generally the best choice is the smallest size that will not skip stitches. Round point Ball point Leather point
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3. STANDARD NEEDLES
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn. Universal needle Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics. Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook. Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven, consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18 universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle works better. Ballpoint and stretch needles Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra. Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.) Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
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Microtex
and
sharp
needles
Leather needle Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather. Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead). Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing. Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.
Denim (jeans) needle Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl. Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole. Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics. Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric (by turning hand crank).
Handicap/self-threading needle Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems. Configuration: Universal needle with slipin threading slot at the eye. Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from needle before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check for fabric and needle compatibility.
Decorative needles The configuration is designed to wed thread to fabric for surface embellishment.
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Topstitching needle Uses: Topstitching. Configuration: Has extra-acute point, extra-large eye, and large groove for heavy thread. Troubleshooting: Use smallest size needle that accommodates your thread to avoid punching large holes in fabric.
Embroidery needle Uses: Machine embroidering or embellishing with decorative thread. Configuration: Has light point (neither sharp nor ballpoint) and enlarged eye to keep decorative threads from shredding or breaking, and prevent skipped stitches. Troubleshooting: If thread still shreds on dense or heavily stitched design, use larger size needle or Metallica needle.
Metallic needle Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic threads. Configuration: Has universal or standard point; large, elongated eye; and large groove to allow fragile metallic and synthetic filament threads to flow smoothly. Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very sensitive to problems in machine: Tiniest burr on thread path or needle can cause problems.
Quilting needle Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling. Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to prevent damaging fabrics when stitching multiple layers. Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly without pulling on needle when freemotion stitching to prevent breaking needle.
Special-purpose needles These needles are used only with front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's width, and zigzag width function is set at zero to prevent sideways movement.
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Hemstitch (wing) needle Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and batiste. Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as you sew. Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective when needle returns to same needle hole more than once. If needle pushes fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.
Twin (double) needle Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching. Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce two rows of stitches. Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica points. Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance between needles.
Triple needle Uses: Same uses as for double needle. Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three needles to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths. Troubleshooting: Same as for double needle.
Spring needle Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs. Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent fabrics from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for presser foot. Troubleshooting: Before using, practice free-motion stitching with heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety glasses for free-motion work, since needles often break.
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4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
s.no Types of Sewing Machines 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Needle System
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines DA X 1or DB X 1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine THREE Thread Over Lock Machine FIVE thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine Button Hole Machine Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine Blind Stitch Machine DP X 5 DB X 1 DC X 1 or DC X 27 DC X 1 or DC X 27 DP X 5 TQ X 1 or TV X 7 TQ X 1 or TV X 7 UY X 1 or GAS TV X 1 or TV X 7 TV X 1 or TV X 7 LW X 6T
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5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED

S.No 1 2 3 4
Needle Size
#9 to #11 #14 to #16 #18 to #20 #22& onwards
Type Of Material
Light Weight Materials Like silk synthetic, knitwear Medium Weight Materials Like Textile, natural fabrics etc.. Heavy weight materials like denim etc.. Extra Heavy weight materials like leather etc..
Classification of needle according to point 1. Normal round point needle

They are used for woven materials etc example; DB X 1
2. Light ball point needles

They are used for thin material, silk etc., & button hole sewing. Example: DP x Si
3. Medium ball point needles

They are used for hosiery material etc., Example: IJY 128 GAS
4. Heavy ball point needles

They are used for sewing heavy weight materials like rubber etc.
5. Stub point needles

They are used for sewing buttons.
Feed dog Variations

Very light weight materials Fine toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only 1.0 to 125 mm to be used to avoid feed damage (pitch = distance between two points in feed dog.) Light to medium weight material Tooth pitch of 1.3 to 11.6 mm and the peaks of the teeth slightly rounded off to avoid damage on fine material Heavy weight material To keep the both plies together while sewing coarser feed dog of 2.5mm tooth pitch is needed
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Delicate fabric Even after rounding of teeth tip damage may be caused to rubber coated feed dog with no sharp teeth at all may be used STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS: I) Lock stitch machines A) Single Needle Lock Stitch 1. Needle bar height 2. hook timing and clearance 3. Feed dog height and centering 4. Feed timing. B) Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine 1. Difference between split needle bar and non-split needle bar. 2. Needle bar height 3. Hook timing and clearance
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CHAPTER - VIII SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
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Sewing thread is usually less than 1/1000th of the weight of apparel, but it carries more one half the responsibilities for its performance
THREAD SELECTION
FACTORES IN THREAD SELECTION Garment design, type, quality, end use, and life expectancy Desired strength and durability Fabric weight and type Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size Cost
Thread Properties
Threads are used to form the stitches that hold the fabric parts Together. They can be described by fiber type, constriction, and size
Fiber Type
Threads can be made from a single fiber type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester, or rubber or from a combination of fibers such as cotton/polyester.
Natural fiber threads

The most common natural fiber used for threads, cotton threads, have excellent sewabllity with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles - a common element of high-speed sewing machines-and even sew well on poorly adjusted machines. Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are particularly attractive for topstitched elements. Compared to synthetic threads, their strength and resistance to abrasion is inferior, and they shrink and mildew when wet. Cotton threads are produced with three finishes: soft, glace and mercerized. Soft finish threads receive no additional processing except bleaching and dyeing. Used on inexpensive garments, they are relatively inexpensive with good sewabllity but because they have a high shrinkage, seam pucker] fl g is frequently a problem after washing.
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Glace threads are treated with wax and special chemicals for a hard, glossy finish. They are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, and stiffer than other cotton threads. They are available in a limited color selection and used for gathering and for sewing heavy materials, leather, vinyl, and canvas. Mercerized threads are treated with a caustic solution to create a smooth, strong, lustrous thread. They are frequently used on cotton garments that will be dyed. Linen and silk threads are rarely used in production because of their high cost.
Synthetic threads
The most common synthetic threads, polyester and nylon, were developed to perform well on synthetic fabrics and withstand the chemicals and heat of durable press treatments. Compared to cotton threads of the same size, they are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, mildew and ultraviolet radiation, and have less shrinkage.
Combination fibers One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which combines the sew ability of cotton with polyesters strength and resistance to abrasion.
Thread construction Although there are a variety of thread constructions, most threads used in garments are twisted, core spun, monofilament, or textured. Twisted threads All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced. Twist Without this balance, the thread could not be controlled.
Twist Direct Z - Twist S - Twist
Most threads are finished with a Z or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would cause threads with an 8 twist to unwind
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One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists. In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths. Spun polyester thread is one of the most common. Core spun Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread. Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/poly Threads can be dyed in a one-step process. Monofilament Threads Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff, wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and reflect the fabrics color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging inexpensive garments and Household textiles. Textured Threads Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping, and untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage, and elasticity. The most common use of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as bobbin threads to add moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam. Thread Size The thread size is dependent on many factors - such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam type, machine speed, needle size, end use, and seam strength. Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system, arid the number increases with the thread size. The cotton system; and the number decrease with the thread size. Generally it is easier to comparing the Tex numbers when comparing threads with different constructions F example, a core spun thread ha size 100 is equivalent to spun polyester thread in size 70 (T-27); and it is larger than spun polyester in size 100 (T-21) and textured polyester in size 150 (T.-18). If your retailer does not stock threads with a Tex number designation, you can substitute other good quality threads. Long staple polyester, cotton- wrapped polyester, and mercerized cotton threads are suitable for general sewing on most fabrics. For very lightweight fabrics, use fine cotton embroidery thread (60/2) or fine cotton-wrapped polyester. For heavier fabrics, use topstitching thread or buttonhole twist.
The Needle Size Chart from American & Efird, Inc. provides a useful guide for selecting compatible needles and threads. However, it Is important to remember that this is the minimum recommended needle size and that a larger needle may be required for the fabric or application.
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CHAPTER - IX TYPES OF STITCHES & SEAM
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1. How a stitch is formed
STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
The formation of a stitch begins when the needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its lowest point. The bobbin hook then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread, and carries it around the bobbin and bobbin thread. The thread is then pulled up into the fabric, completing the stitch.
Each category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the number of needles, looper, and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main characterization.
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A. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS Class 100 - Chain stitch

One of the simplest stitch types, the chain stitch has one or more needle threads and is formed by Intra looping. This stitch is very Insecure and unravels easily if a stitch is broken or skipped or if the last loop is not fastened securely. This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes, hemming, basting and pad stitching.
Class 200 - Rand Stitch

Generally formed by hand, the hand stitch is made with a needle that is passed from one side of the material to the other as a single line of thread. The most important machine to duplicate this stitch is a pick stitching machine, which is used as a decorative detail on the other edges of jackets.
Class 300 - Lockstitch

The most common stitch type, the lockstitch has two or more groups of threads that interlace to form the stitch. One group is called the needle threads and the other the bobbin threads. These stitches do not unravel easily and always require a bobbin. Very versatile, they are used for seaming, hemming, and setting zippers and pockets.
Class 400 - Multi Thread Chain stitch

Sometimes called a double-locked stitch, the multithread chain stitch has two or more groups of threads that interlace and interloop with each other. One group is called the needle threads and the other the looper threads. This stitch is actually stronger than the lockstitch; however, if the threads are not properly secured on the finishing end, it will unravel. It is used for seaming and in combination with the over edge stitch on over lock machines. When used for seaming, the needle thread determines the seam strength and the looper threads can be finer.
Class 500 - Over edge Stitch

The over edge stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads that interloop to form a thread sheath around the fabric edge. The most common stitches have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads. Overedge stitches are v elastic and do not in unravel easily. They are for neatening edges trimming woven and low stretch knitted fabrics and decorative edgings. All of the stitches can be used for neatening; however, one and two-thread overedge stitches cannot be used for seaming because the stitch opens up when stressed transversely. And, since the stitches produce a closed seam that cannot be pressed open, it is not always acceptable on better garments. When used for seaming, the needle thread determines the seam strength. This stitch is frequently combined with a multithread. Chain stitch (401) to seam and finish the edges.
Class 600 Cover stitch

The most complex stitch class, the cover stitch is generally formed with three or more groups of threads that cover the raw edges of both surfaces. Very elastic, It is used to create low bulk and decorative seams on underwear and knitted casual garments. Threads should be strong with a soft hand.
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Chain stitch (class100)
Hand stitch (class 200)
Bobbin Thread
Bobbin Thread
Needle Thread
Needle Thread
Lock stitch (Class 300)
Multi-thread Chain stitch (Class 400)
Bobbin Thread
Looper Thread
Needle Thread
Needle Thread
Over edge Stitch (Class 500)
Cover Stitch (Class 600)
Lower Looper Thread
Lower Looper Thread
Upper Looper Thread
Needle Thread
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2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS Seams are basic element of construction formed when two or more pieces of material are sewn together, they are used for joining garment sections In the production of sewn products. The success of every garment depends on the accuracy and skill with which the seams join the Individual components of the garment Factors in the selection of Seam Type and Application 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Garment design, type, quality, end use, and care. Fabric type, bulk, texture, weight transparency, and tendency to fray. Desired strength and durability. Difficulty of construction and skill of the operators. Equipment available. Cost of labor and materials. Retail price. Designer or manufacturer preference. Current fashion trends.
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SEAM CLASSIFICATION As per the British standard 3870, Part 1 - 1991 seams may classified Into eight types. Class 1 Super imposed Seam French Seam Piped Beam Class 2 Lapped Seam Lap felled Seam Welted Seam Class 3 Bound Seam Class 4 Flat Seam Class 5 Decorative Seam Class 6 Edge neatening Class 7 Addition of other Seams
Class 8 Belt loops General Guide for Seam Allowances Generally the following seam allowances are used in apparel construction, but it must be remembered that this is only a guide and will not be appropriate for every design and fabric. 1/8 to 3/8 Enclosed seams at edges that have separate facings, mach as necklines, collars, cuffs, and armholes, and on intricate curves. The narrowest (1/8) seam allowances can be used on lightweight fabrics that do not fray, while the widest (3/8) are used as loosely woven S fabrics and fabrics that ravel easily. 3/8 to 1/2 Sleeves, yokes, waistlines, gores, style lines within the silhouette, center lines, top-stitched seams, cut-out darts, cuff/sleeve seams, band/skirt seams, inseams, and side seams on budget and moderately priced garments. 3/4 to 1: Vertical seams on better garments, zipper plackets, and darts.
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3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
Counterstich sleeve Attach sleeve Sew front fly to left front Sew button on front Sew pocket Sew buttonhole on front Sew button to top of front & cuff Sew side & under sleeve Sew buttonhole to top of front & cuff Sew yoke to back Runstitch cuff
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4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
Attach zipper to left fly Make belt loop Sew button to fly & hip pocket Serge front & back Sew eyelet buttonhole Bartack eyelet buttonhole end Sew belt loop to waist band Sew belt loop bottom Sew hip pocket welt to back Sew side
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5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
Hem ticket pocket Sew eyelet buttonhole Topstitch waist band corner Sew waist band Serge side pocket facing Topstitch left front fly Sew inseam Hem bottom Sew side Bartack front fly Sew belt loop Make belt loop Sew leather label to waist band Decorative stitch to hip pocket
Sew hip pocket to back
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6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
Sew buttonhole to front fly Sew button to front fly Serge pocket mouth Attach sleeve mouth rib to sleeve Sew under sleeve
Sew side & under sleeve Sew pocket Sew sleeve Hem bottom Make slit
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7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT
Join neck rib & attach neck rib to body Attach sleeve Hem sleeve Hem bottom
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CHAPTER - X DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES
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1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE

S.No Sewing Defects Causes Burns on the thread path, needle point and hook tip Needle thread tension is two high Bobbin case opening lever provides an excessive clearance at the bobbin case Hook set is not lubricated properly Thread untwists Clearance between the needle and hook tip is more 2 Skip Stitching Presser foot pressure is not enough Synthetic thread or thin thread Bobbin thread does not pass through the forked end of tension spring on the bobbin case Bobbin does not spin smoothly 3 Loose stitch Bobbin thread tension is too low Bobbin is wound too tightly Adjust the bobbin thread tension Adjust the tension device in bobbin winder assembly. Loosen tension post no.1 slightly. Remedies Remove burns by using a emery sheet ( fine) Adjust the needle thread tension Correct the clearance between bobbin case opening lever and bobbin case edge. Increase the oil circulation level Threading should be properly. Correct hook timing and clearance Check the presser foot regulator level Wind the thread on the needle Thread the bobbin case correctly
Thread Breakage
Replace the bobbin
Thread escapes from the needle eye after thread trimming
Thread tension given by the tension post no. I is eye after thread too high
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2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE

S.No Sewing Defects Causes The tension of the tension post No.2 is two tight The tension or stroke of the take up spring is more 1 Needle thread is broken Blade point of sewing hook has burr or scratches Proper timing of the sewing hook Improper threading Needle Thread 2 Thread slips out The whip stitch is not formed at the start of sewing A the tension disc no.2, is too lose Bobbin thread tension is too high Bobbin thread tension is not enough 4 Stitches float over cloth Bobbin thread slips out of the thread path on the bobbin case The work clamp check is too large for button hole 5 Skip stitching The cloth is made light weight materials The tension no.1 is too loose 6 The needle Thread at the first bar tacking comes out and lumps on the bottom of cloth The bobbin thread tension is too high Remedies Decrease the tension of the tension post Decrease the tension of the take up spring Smoothen by the sand paper. Readjust the hook timing. Cheek Threading Move back the needle thread trimmer driving plate B Decrease the tension of the tension post No.1 Increase the tension.
Wobbling stitches are formed in the over edging seams
Decrease the bobbin thread tension Readjust the tension Properly thread the bobbin case Change the work clamp check with a smaller one Delay the timing of the needle and sewing hook Readjust the tension Decrease the bobbin thread tension
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3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE

S.No Sewing Defects Causes The yoke slide does not move in the correct way The thread tension post no.2, fails to release the thread at correct timing The thread nipper catches the thread The needle does not enter the centre of the holes in the button The yoke slide does not move in the correct way The thread tension post no.2, fails to release the thread at correct timing 2 Button are not sewn tightly The work pressing force is too height or too low The needle does not enter the centre of the holes in the button The first stitch trails 3 reactively long thread from the right side of the button The thread pull off lever does not work properly Adjust the work pressing force properly Adjust the button clamp jaw lever holder Adjust the thread pull off lever by the nipper bar block Remedies Adjust the timing of the motion of the yoke slide at each end. Make the thread release slightly easier Adjust the position of the nipper bar block Adjust the button clamp jaw lever holder. Adjust the timing of the motion of the yoke slide at each end Make the thread release slightly later
Thread breakage
The thread tension post Make the thread timing no.2 fails to release the thread at correct timing The needle hits the edge of the holes in the button 4 Thread trimming failure in the state of stop-motion The button clamp assembly does not rise to the necessary height
Make the thread timing slightly later to give more tension to the stitches.
Adjust the button clamp jaw lever holder Provide a 12mm clearance between the feed plate and button clamp jaw lever when raised
The thread nipper fails to press the thread
Adjust the nipper bar block
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4. OVER LOCK MACHINE

S.No Sewing Defects Causes Needle type is wrong Needle size is not correct Remedies Use a specified needle Use a needle size suitable to the thread gauge and type of fabrics Install the needle correctly Use good needle Correct the relation Correct the looper timing Adjust the knife position Sharpen the lower knife or renew the upper knife Correct the needle-to-looper relation Use a Z twist thread Adjust the thread tension Use the thread of good quality Select a suitable needle or thread Threading properly Adjust the thread tension nut Correct the feed dog height Correct the differential feed mechanism Correct the presser foot pressure
Needle breaking
Needle is not installed Needle is bent Needle to needle guard relation is bad Needle to looper relation is bad Position of the upper and lower knife is inadequate
Cloth is not cut
Knife blade has worn out Needle to looper relation is wrong
Skip stitch
Needle is thread with 's' twist thread Thread tension is wrong Quality of the thread is poor Thread is too thick for needle size Needle is installed in wrong way Thread tension is too high Feed dog comes up too much from the throat plate Differential feed mechanism is not set Correctly
Thread Breakage
Puckering Pressure applied by the pressure foot is too high or too low
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CHAPTER - XI GARMENT MANUFACTURING PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT
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1.
Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Machine: SNLS Exercise: Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Goal:14Seconds
Exercise Number
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Illustration:
Fabric
Pick Up the 20x5 plaid plies, align them and place them under needle. Take reference to any straight line on the plaid fabric.
Start sewing by following the reference point and sew off at the end.
Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under the needle taking a new reference point.
Continue the process 4 as many time as possible using the same fabric.
First try to sew straight with any number of bursts applicable to you and once you achieve this objective try to reduce the number of bursts.
At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts.
Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Lines sewed must be straight.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Try to use the fabric given to you optimally by sewing as many lines as possible. Keep the length of end threads low. Abilities Developed Ability to sew long seams straight Ability to sew long seams in min. no. of bursts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
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2. Attaching one piece to other using folder

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number
Exercise: Attaching One Piece to Other using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Fabric
20 X 5 22 X 2 (Placket Piece)
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap align and place it on the body under the needle as shown in fig.
Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the placket facing with right hand and body with left hand.
While feeding ensures that the placket facing is fed normally while body is fed a bit tighter in proportion to placket facing.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed.
Quality Checks matching along the placket should be consistent. Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing attaching. Abilities Developed Ability to match checks while sewing. Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing.
Necessary materials DNLS 2 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins 20x5 & 22 x 2 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
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3. Placket facing attach using folder

Machine: DNLS Goal: Exercise Number
Exercise: Placket Facing Attach Using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Fabric Ready Front Cuts 22 X 2 For Placket
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and place under the needle. Pick the facing from lap and pass it through the folder. When placket facing reaches the other end of folder aligns it to the body, match the checks and position it under the needle. Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the placket facing with right hand and body with left hand. Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed.
Quality Checks matching along the placket should be consistent. Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing attaching.
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Abilities Developed Ability to match checks while sewing. Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing. Ability to work with folder for attaching placket
Necessary Materials DNLS 2 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins 20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer Folder
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4. Hemming operations using folder

Machine: SNLS Goal:18 Seconds Exercise Number
Exercise: Hemming Operations Using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: STEP 1. The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the ply from left ext, fold it to 1at one edge as shown in fig. and place it under the needle. Start sewing straight by folding the width with right hand and feeding the fabric forward with left hand. Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed. Step 1: One Edge Without Using Folder Illustration:
Fabric
Step 2: Other Folder
Edge Using
STEP 2. Move the above chain-disposed bundle to left side of you. Take the first piece in the bundle and feed it to the folder attached. Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric with right hand and feeding it into the folder. Sew off at the edge and dispose in chain. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Maintain a margin of 1 throughout the seam. Avoid down stitches along the seam. If the fabric is plaid, checks to be matched where ever necessary. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
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Waste Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise. Abilities Developed Ability to do all hemming Operations Ability to work in single burst using folder.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer Folder
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5. Square pocket attach

Machine: Exercise: SNLS Square Pocket Attach Illustration: Fabric Goal: Exercise Number
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Ready Creased Pockets Ready Fronts
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point A as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until Use reach the Position C. At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar.
Quality Pocket edges must be sharp. Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front. No Down Stitches allowed.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation. Abilities Developed Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Fronts & Pockets. Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
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6. Rounded bottom pocket attach

Machine: SNLS Attach Illustration: Fabric Goal: Exercise Number
Exercise: Rounded Bottom Pocket Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point A as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position C. At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Ready Creased Pockets Ready Fronts
Quality Pocket edges must be sharp. Bottom Corners must be rounded precisely Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front. No Down Stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
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Waste Use the Fronts For Mock Shoulder Attach Operation. Abilities Developed Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Fronts & Pockets. Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
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7. Bottom triangle pocket attach

Exercise: Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point A as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position C. At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Illustration: Fabric Ready Creased Pockets Ready
Fronts
Quality Pocket edges must be sharp. Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front. No Down Stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation.
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Abilities Developed Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
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8. Diamond pocket attach

Exercise: Diamond Pocket Attach Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration: Fabric Ready Creased Pockets Ready Fronts
Security
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point A as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position C. At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar.
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Pocket edges must be sharp. Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front. No Down Stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
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Waste Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation. Abilities Developed Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
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9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners

Machine: SNLS Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number
Exercise: Long & Short Seams with needle Down Stoppages at Corners Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up two 20 X 5 plies (One from right extension and other from lap ) simultaneously with both hands, align them on one side and position them under needle at from corner. Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right hand and guiding the fabric forward with left hand. Continue stitching until you reach from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position. With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the fabric with right hand and guiding it with left hand. Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off thread and dispose. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Illustration:
Fabric
20 x 5
2 Plies; One Over another
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle must be in down position while stopped at corners. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
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Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other exercises if possible. Abilities Developed Ability to hold and sew long seams straight. Ability to stop with needle down Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
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Machine:
SNLS 10. Collar run stitch operation
Goal: 25 sec Illustration:
Exercise Number CL 02
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against Exercise: Mock Collar RunStitch the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right extension and other from lap ) simultaneously with both hands, align them on one side and position them under needle at from corner. Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right hand and guiding the fabric forward with left hand. Continue stitching until you reach from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position. With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the fabric with right hand and guiding it with left hand. Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle must be in down position while stopped at corners. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other exercises if possible.
Ready Cut Collar Plies
2 Plies; One Over another
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Abilities Developed Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation. Ability to stop with needle down Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges. Necessary Material SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Cut Collar Plies
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11. Top stitch along edges

Machine: SNLS Exercise: Top Stitch along Edges Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pcs From CL01 to be turned & Used for this Operation Illustration: Goal: 20 Sec Exercise Number CL 03
Pick Up the piece from Machine bed and place it under the needle at a distance of from the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of until you reach from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position.
With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle must be in down position while stopped at corners. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
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Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other exercises if possible. Abilities developed Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation. Ability to stop with needle down Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary material SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 BobbinsReady Cut Collar Plies
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12. Hem along the contour

Machine: SNLS Goal: 24 seconds Exercise Number CL 05
Exercise: Hem along the Contour
Illustration:
Fabric
Pick Up the fabric From Lap, fold it 3/8 at the corner and place it under the needle.
Sew at margin from the edge carefully following the contour.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Fold the fabric along the other edge at 3/8 width and place it under the needle.
Hem stitch folding the margin with the right hand and guiding the fabric with the left hand by maintaining the width from the edge throughout the contour.
Trim the thread and dispose the fabric. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No down or dropped stitch allowed during hemming. Keep the puckering minimal along round edges.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in Pick attach Operation. Abilities Developed Ability to fold and hem stitch along the curve. Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
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13. Mock neck band hem
Machine:
SNLS
Goal: 16 seconds
Exercise: Mock Neck Band Hem
Illustration:
Fabric 20 X 3
Pick Up the fabric From Machine bed fold it at 3/8 width at bottom end and place this end under the needle.
Now start Sewing at a margin of from the folded edge along the required contour.
When sewing make sure that the folding is done precisely with right hand and the fabric is guided by right hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Maintain the stitch margin of throughout the folded edge. No down or dropped stitch allowed during hemming. Keep the puckering minimal along rounded edges. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 158
Waste Re-Use the Fabric in Pick attach Operation. Abilities Developed Ability to do Neck Band Hemming. Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 159
14. Sewing with template
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Sewing with Template
Goal: 23 Seconds
Illustration:
Fabric 20 X 5
Pick Up the fabric and place it under the needle and place the template above the fabric.
Sew Straight along the template
Continue stitching until you reach the other end of the template where you sew off, cut the threads.
Now position the fabric such that the other edge of the template is under the needle and sew holding the template as shown in figure.
Sew Off at the other end, Trim the thread and dispose the Fabric.
Quality Sew Straight. Avoid moving the template while sewing.
Page | 160
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other exercises if possible. Abilities Developed Ability to hold template and sew as required. Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer Template 10 X 3
Page | 161
15. Mock pick stitching

Machine: SNLS Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number CL 08 Illustration:
Exercise: Mock Pick Stitching. Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Fabric Collars From CL04 Hemmed N/B ply from CL06 20 X 3 for Bottom N/B Ply
Open the bundle; Place collars and Inside Collar band ply on Lap, Top C/B on the right extension.
Pick collar and ply on right extension simultaneously, align and place on the table.
Pick up second ply on the lap and align with other two. Now place the template on the top ply align it with the shape of the collar and position all the three under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour of the template.
Sew off at the other end, trim the thread and dispose the collar.
PATTERN
Quality Collar and template should be aligned properly at the collar corners. Pattern should not be displaced while sewing. Stitches should be made exactly along the contour of the template.
Page | 162
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the end pieces for the mock exercises of center stitch finish collars. Abilities Developed Ability to sew along the curves. Ability to handle three plies at a time. Ability to sew using the template.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Neckband plies and ready collar. Thread trimmer Template
Page | 163
16. Top stitch handling tree piles

Exercise: Top Stitch Handling Three Plies Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. STEP 1
Fabric
Pick Up three plies from lap, align and position under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of and sew off at the other edge.
Turn the top and bottom plies downwards at the joint and crease it along the edge.
Do Top stitch along the joint edge and sew off at the other end. STEP 2 Sew at a margin of from one the edge of the fabric.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seam for the step 1 exercise. Avoid down stitches for the step 2 exercises.
Page | 164
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise. Abilities Developed Ability to hold and sew long seams straight. Ability to sew top edge stitch using two or more plies.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 165
17. Mock centre stitch collar

Exercise: Mock Centre Stitch Collar Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Fabric
Pick Up the Collar from Table and position the start point from where the center stitch begins, under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of 1/16 from the joint edge along the seam.
Stop at required point at the other end, trim the threads and dispose off. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Down Stitches not allowed. Edge stitch must be uniformly at a margin of 1/16 from the Joint. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the collars for Collar attaches Later. Minimize thread end wastage. Abilities developed
Ability to Do Center stitch on Collar.
Page | 166
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Collars & Thread trimmer 1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 167
18. Mock topstitch collar
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Mock Topstitch Collar
Goal:22 Seconds
Illustration:
Pcs from Collar Run stitch operations to be turned and used in this exercise.
Pick Up the ready collar from Machine bed and place it under the needle at a distance of from the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of until you reach from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position.
With the needle down position turn the collar at w.r.t the other edge and continue stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose.
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Page | 168
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in mock Pick attach Exercise. Abilities Developed Ability to do Topstitch Collar Operation. Ability to stop with needle down Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Collars & Trimmer
Page | 169
19. Cuff hem
Machine: Exercise:
SNLS Cuff Hem
Goal:
Exercise Number CF 01
Illustration: Fabric 11 x 3.5 Ply
Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed, fold it by 3/8 and position it under the needle at from the edge.
Now Start sewing Straight by folding the width with the right hand and feeding the fabric forward with left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No Down stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 170
Waste
Ability
Ability to do Cuff Hem Operation. Necessary material
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 171
20. Mock run stitch cuffs

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number CF 02 Illustration: Fabric 11 x 3.5 Ply
Exercise: Mock Run Stitch Cuffs Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Ready Hemmed Ply Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed and another ply from the lap, align and position them under the needle at from the edge.
Now Place the template over the plies and start sewing with a back tack, along the contour of the template.
While sewing hold the Template with Left hand and handle the plies using right hand.
At the other end sew off with a back tack and dispose in chain.
Template
Quality Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Follow the template precisely at the rounded corners. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 172
Waste
Use these cuffs for Cuff attach Operation. Abilities Developed
Ability to do Cuff Run stitch Operation Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 173
21. Binding operation

Machine: Exercise: SNLS Binding Operation. Illustration: Fabric 20 x 5 22 x 2 (Creased) STEP 1. Goal: Exercise Number SL 01
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: STEP 1. The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine bed and u-ply from right extension simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place them under needle.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain. STEP 2. Pick up the end piece from above, turn and place the end of folded edge other side under the needle.
STEP 2.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from the folded edge.
Page | 174
Quality Avoid the visibility of attach stitches. Avoid down stitches on both faces. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste
Abilities Developed Ability to attach two plies. Ability to turn and topstitch a fold. (Binding stitch)
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 2 Fabric plies & Trimmer T Guide
Page | 175
22. Binding operation using a folder

Machine: SNLS Folder Illustration: Fabric 20 x 5 22 x 3 Goal: Exercise Number SL 02
Exercise: Binding Operation Using a Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Using a Folder F205 The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the facing 22 x 3 from the lap and feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the other end and position the fold under the needle.
Now take 20 x 5 from the pick up bar and position it in between the facing ply U Fold, under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing through the folder with right hand and 20 x 5 with the left hand.
Quality No Roping allowed. No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 176
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the other edge also for binding Attaches. Abilities Developed Ability to do Binding Seams Using a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 2 Fabric plies (20 x 5, 22 x 3) Trimmer Folder F205
Page | 177
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number SL 03
Exercise: Mock Continuous Slv Placket Attach Using a Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut 14 x 3 Ply Cuts
Using a Folder F205 The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the facing 14 x 3 from the lap and feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the other end and position the fold under the needle.
Now pick the ready full Sleeve from Pick Up stand and position cut edge between the facing ply U Fold, under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing through the folder with right hand and Sleeve with the left hand.
Page | 178
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to Attach Continuous Sleeve Placket Using a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Sleeves & 14 x 3 Plies Folder F205
Page | 179
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number SL 04
Exercise: Mock Split Edge Placket Attach Operation Using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Using a Folder The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Illustration:
Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut 7 x 1.5 Ply Cuts
Pickup the facing 7 x 1.5 from a box under the Machine and feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the other end and position the fold under the needle.
Now pick the Ready full Sleeve from Pick Up stand and position cut edge between the facing ply U Fold, under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing through the folder with right hand and Sleeve with the left hand.
Page | 180
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to Attach Split Sleeve Placket to Sleeve Using a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Sleeves & 7 x 1.5 Plies Folder
Page | 181
25. Attach two plies using folder
Machine: Exercise:
DNLS Attach Two plies Using Folder.
Goal:
Exercise Number BK 02
Illustration: Body Ply
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and place it under the needle.
Pick up the second ply from right extension and feed it into the folder.
Align the two plies and position them under the needle.
Yoke Ply
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through folder with right hand and holding the bottom ply with left hand. Align both plies while feeding for stitches.
If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks symmetrically throughout the seam length.
Page | 182
Quality Maintain the checks symmetrically throughout the seam length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste
Abilities Developed Ability to work with folder. Ability to stitch the straight seams.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Fabric plies & Thread trimmer Folder & CL Foot
Page | 183
26. Pleats
Machine: Exercise: SNLS Pleats Illustration: Goal:17 Seconds Exercise Number BK 01
Target For 5 Pleats. Fabric 20 x 5 (Notched)
Pick Up the ply from lap and place it on Machine bed.
Match the first 2 notches with fingers, lift the presser foot and rest it on the pleat fold with needle position at desired point of stitch.
Sew the pleat. Match the next notch and repeat the steps 3 & 4 as many pleats are there.
Dispose the fabric once all the pleats are sewn.
Quality Maintain pleat depth as required. Sew the pleat within seam allowance.
Page | 184
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use The Fabric For PLK01 Later.
Abilities Developed Ability to make Pleats.
Page | 185
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
Machine:
DNLS Folder.
Goal:
Exercise Number BK 03
Exercise: Mock yoke Attach with Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Fabric Backs & Yokes Ready Cutting
Body & Yoke 1
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and second ply from right extension, align and position under the needle.
Pick up the third ply from the lap and feed it into the folder.
Align the third ply with other two plies and position them under the needle.
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through folder with right hand and holding the bottom ply with left hand. Align both plies while feeding for stitches. Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain. If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks symmetrically through out the seam length.
Yoke 2
Quality Maintain the checks symmetrically through out the seam length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Page | 186
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste
Abilities Developed Ability to do yoke attaches using Folder. Ability to stitch the straight seams. Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously while sewing
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Fabric plies & Thread trimmer Folder & 1/ 4 CL Presser Foot
Page | 187
28. Shoulder attach without folder

Machine: SNLS Goal:60 Seconds Exercise Number AS 01 Illustration: Backs From Yoke Attach & Fronts From Cutting
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Without Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: STEP 1.
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Open the bundle and clamp the pieces to the sloping table. Pick Up backs from clamp table and position top Yoke piece under the needle. Take front piece from pick up bar right to operator, align it with yoke edge and place it under needle. Sew straight and trim threads at the end of seam (UBT). Pick up the other front, align with second half of yoke and position them under Needle. Sew straight and trim threads at the end of seam (UBT). STEP 2. Now take the Piece out turn the bottom yoke over the above seam, align the edges and position under the needle. Sew straight and trim threads at the end of seam (UBT). Repeat steps 6 & 7 for the other front. Flip over and dispose the garment. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at shoulder. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
STEP 2.
Page | 188
Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time. Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously.
Page | 189
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings Trimmer
Page | 190
Machine: Exercise:
DNLS
Goal:19 Seconds
Exercise Number AS 02
29. Topstitch shoulder

Illustration:
Fabric from AS01 Exercise
Open the bundle and pick the piece with right hand from center runner and position the shoulder joint to be topstitched under needle.
The fronts should lie to the right of the seam and backs to the left on machine bed as shown in figure.
Hold and feed the garment with the palms of both hands resting and then moving parallel on either side of seam.
Sew off and trim threads at the shoulder end (UBT) and position the next shoulder under the needle.
Repeat step 4 and dispose to left of workstation.
Quality No Down Stitches while sewing. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 191
WASTE Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to topstitch shoulder on DNLS. Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Front & Back attached pieces.
Page | 192
30. Shoulder attach using folder

Machine: DNLS Goal: Exercise Number AS 03 Illustration:
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: STEP 1. The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Open the bundle and clamp the backs to the sloping table. Place left front on pick up bar and right fronts on the lap. Pick Up back from clamp table, left front from the pickup bar simultaneously. Feed the bottom yoke into the folder and then place left front over it. Feed the top Yoke into the folder align the three plies along the seam edge and position then Under presser foot. Sew straight by feeding bottom yoke and front with right hand and top yoke with the left hand. Sew off and trim at the shoulder end (UBT). Now Pick up the right front from the lap and repeat the steps 4, 5, 6 & 7. Flip over for waterfall disposal.
Quality Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at shoulder. No down stitches while sewing. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 193
Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time. Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously. Ability to work with Folder. Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings Folder & CL Presser foot. Clamped Sloping Table
Page | 194
31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number AS 04 Illustration:
Exercise: Sew Contour Fabric to straight Fabric. Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Use Prepared Fabric & Contour Cut fabric for this Exercise
Pickup Contour fabric with left hand from machine bed and straight ply with right hand from right extension simultaneously.
Align the ends of both plies and position them under needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until you reach the other end.
Quality Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned correctly along the edge. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 195
Waste Use the same fabric for Collar closing operation. Abilities Developed Ability to Sew along contour without stretch. Ability to sew in 2-3 bursts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins
Page | 196
32. Mock collar attach

Machine: Exercise: SNLS / UBT Mock Collar Attach Illustration: Ready Collar Ready Body Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number AS 05
Pickup the body from left and collar from right extension simultaneously.
Position neck of body under needle and then place and align collar over neck of body under the needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until you reach the other end.
Sew off at the other end, trim threads (UBT) and dispose over center runner to the right.
Quality Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned correctly along the edge.
Page | 197
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to do Collar attach Operation. Ability to handle one each of small and larger parts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Collars and bodies.
Page | 198
33. Binding operations

Machine: Exercise: SNLS Binding Operations. Illustration: Goal:30 Seconds Exercise Number AS 06
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: STEP 1. The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine bed and u-ply from right extension simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place them under needle.
STEP 2. Pick up the end piece from above, turn and place the end of folded edge other side under the needle.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from the folded edge.
Page | 199
Quality Avoid the visibility of attach stitches. Avoid down stitches on both faces. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste
Abilities Developed Ability to attach two plies. Ability to turn and topstitch a fold. Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 2 Fabric plies.
Page | 200
34. Mock collar finish

Machine: SNLS Goal:50 Seconds Exercise Number AS 07 Illustration:
Exercise: Mock Collar Finish Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Pcs From Mock Collar Attach
Pickup the body from center runner to right of workstation and position the Pick area under needle.
Start Sewing along the pick edge and at the corner stop the needle insert body correctly and start sewing to other pick end.
While sewing hold the collar pick fold with right hand and feed the body with left hand.
Before reaching the other end of pick stop the needle align collar and body and then sew along pick edge.
Trim threads at the end (UBT) and dispose on Left bar.
Stitches Ply 2
Ply 1
Quality Collar stay stitch should not be visible. Avoid down stitches.
Page | 201
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Ability to do topstitch collar operation. Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready Body with collar attached.
Page | 202
35. Lap seam along contour

Machine: SNLS Goal:35 Seconds Exercise Number AS 08 Illustration:
Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply under the presser foot. Take the sleeve ply and place it at a distance 3/8 margin from the body ply seam edge.
Now fold the bigger ply edge over the smaller ply and position under the needle.
Match the notches on both plies, align the plies and Start sewing straight while folding the body ply edge with left hand and feeding the sleeve ply with right hand. Continue this step until you finish stitching at the other end.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Page | 203
Quality Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches exactly. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation exercise. Abilities Developed Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful while doing sleeve attach operations. Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Mock plies as shown in figure.
Page | 204
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)

Machine: SNLS Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number AS 09
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation (Lap Seam) Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Sleeves ready cut Body from Collar attach Operation
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup body from rack to left of WS and position the armhole end under the presser foot. Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with left hand and align with the armhole and position at a distance of 3/8 from the edge of armhole. Now fold the armhole edge over the sleeve and position under the needle. Match the notches on both armhole and sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight while folding the body edge with left hand and feeding the sleeve with right hand. Continue this step until you finish stitching at the other end. Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT) and dispose to bar on right.
Quality Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 205
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to attach sleeves to body. Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Page | 206
37. Lap seam along contour using folder

Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour using folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: USING FOLDER
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply through folder and position under the presser foot. Take the sleeve ply and place it on the body ply through the lap fold.
Match the notches on both plies, align the plies and Start sewing straight while holding the body ply edge with left hand and feeding the sleeve ply with right hand.
Continue the above step until you finish stitching at the other end.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches exactly.
Page | 207
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation exercise. Abilities Developed Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful while doing sleeve attach operations. Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins 2 plies as shown in figure. Folder
Page | 208
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder

Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number AS 11
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation (Lap Seam) with Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Pickup body from rack to left of WS, pass it through folder and position the armhole end under the presser foot.
Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with left hand and place it on armhole inside the fold.
Match the notches on both armhole and sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight while holding the body edge with left hand and feeding the sleeve with right hand. Continue this step until you finish stitching at the other end.
Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT) and dispose to bar on right.
Quality Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 209
Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to attach sleeves to body. Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Ready bodies & Sleeves. Folder
Page | 210
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam

Machine: DNLS Goal: 15 Sec Illustration: Exercise Number AS 12
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam. Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology:
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to WS and position the end of armhole joint under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the margin with both the palms on either side guiding the stitch.
Quality Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent margin from the edge. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste
Page | 211
Abilities Developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Ready piece as shown in figure.
Page | 212
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder

Machine: DNLS Goal: Exercise Number AS 13
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam using Folder. Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration:
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to WS and pass the end of armhole joint through folder and position the end under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the margin with both the palms on either side guiding the stitch.
Quality Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent margin from the edge. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 213
Waste Abilities developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Ready piece as shown in figure. Folder & CR presser foot.
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41. Topstitch sleeve attach

Machine: DNLS Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Illustration: Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number AS 14
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch back to the left of operator and position the area to be topstitched under the needle with sleeve extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following the margin with both palms on either side guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT). Remove the piece and position the other armhole area under the needle as explained in step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece to the center runner.
Quality Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities developed Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS. Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
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42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder

Machine: DNLS Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach using Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology: Folder Illustration: Goal: Exercise Number AS 15
Using folder
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch back to the left of operator and pass the area to be topstitched through the folder and position the end under the needle with sleeve extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following the margin with both palms on either side guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT). Remove the piece and position the other armhole area under the needle as explained in step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece to the center runner.
Quality Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. Abilities Developed Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS. Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials DNLS 3 Thread Cones. 3 Bobbins Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached. Folder & CR foot.
Page | 218
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)

Machine: SNLS (Curved) Illustration: Goal: Exercise Number AS 19
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and position it under needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90 degrees with needle down Position and Start Sewing along the contour by folding the width with the right hand and guiding the piece along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal bar or center runner.
Quality Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the contour. Roping must not be there along the seam. No Down stitches allowed.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem. Abilities Developed Ability to hem Rounded edges. Ability to handle large garments while manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
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44. Long straight hemming

Exercise: Long Straight Hemming Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at the (Turn & Turn) and position it under needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90 degrees with needle down Position and Start Sewing along the edge by folding the width with the right hand and guiding the piece along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal Bar or Center runner.
Quality Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the contour. Roping must not be there along the seam. No Down stitches allowed.
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Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the opposite edge if not done. Abilities Developed Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for longer seams. Ability to handle large garments while manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot
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45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder

Machine: SNLS (Curved) Using Goal: Exercise Number AS 21
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. Folder Starting Position:
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and position it under needle. Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90 degrees with needle down Position, Set the folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded into it. Start Sewing along the contour by feeding the folded width with the right hand and guiding the piece along using left hand. At the other end, remove the folder, turn the fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack. Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal bar or center runner.
Using Folder
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Quality Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the contour. Roping must not be there along the seam. No Down stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem.
Page | 223
Abilities Developed Ability to hem Rounded edges. Ability to handle large garments while manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer 1/16 CL Foot & Folder F503 Magnetic guide
Page | 224
46. Long straight hemming using folder

Exercise: Long Straight Hemming using Folder Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Methodology The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at the (Turn & Turn) and position it under needle. Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90 degrees with needle down Position, set the folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded into it. Start Sewing along the edge by feeding the folded width with the right hand and guiding the piece along using left hand. At the other end, Remove the Folder, turn the fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack. Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal Bar or Center runner. Security The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the needle. Use Safety glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Operation Using Folder
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Quality Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the contour. Roping must not be there along the seam. No Down stitches allowed. Ergonomics Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back Rest Facing Forward. Waste Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the opposite edge if not done.
Page | 225
Abilities Developed Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for longer seams. Ability to handle large garments while manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials SNLS 2 Thread Cones. 2 Bobbins Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot Folder F505
Page | 226
CHAPTER - XII
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE
Page | 227
Type of Attachments
1. Various Collar Operations
Hems the collar band before it is attached to the collar Please specify hem size and stitch margin. We recommend an edge guide foot to maintain proper margins
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar. Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead.
Page | 228
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
This folder turn down the top ply and joins it to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is recommended.
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar. Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead.
Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt. Both folders can be made left or right.
Page | 229
3.
Pocket Hemming
This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit your particular need. Please specify finished size, stitch margin, and the amount of in tuck required.
Special presser foot recommended.
Page | 230
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing short sleeves. Two of the most popular are illustrated below. These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets
Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched. Piping and other types of trim may also be added. Special edge guide foot is recommended.
Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. Must be used on lockstitch machines.
Special foot is recommended.
5. Tail Hemming
No. 209 No. 209A No. 210
The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16" finish. The hinged feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam. Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose thread strands. The swing hemmer is used for straighter runs and is available with a spring for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing. Special presser foot recommended.
Page | 231
Page | 232
6. Button Stay Hemming No. 211 Upturned hemmer with lining for use on lockstitch machines. Various styles are available with or without lining. Special presser foot recommended. Downturned hemmer for use on chainstitch machines. Special presser foot recommended. This picture illustrates a button stay hemmer with a separate strip added underneath. Bottom stripper available with or without lining. Used on double needle chainstitch machines.
No. 211A No. 211B
Page | 233
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
For use on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces. Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods. Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special presser foot is recommended.
For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls. Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size lining and face goods. Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special presser is recommended.
Page | 234
8.
Setting Sleeve Plackets
Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening. Folder is designed for easy loading of short pieces. Edge guide foot is recommended.
Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on the sleeve opening. Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different. Edge guide foot is recommended.
9. Closing Side Seams Lap Seam Folders
Lap seam folders are used to close side seams. Folder available with separate width adjustment. Lap seam folder can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely. Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams.
Page | 235
10. Sleeve Setting There are two types of variations for the Sleeve Setting Single Needle Sleeving
Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched on high quality shirts. down. Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser recommended. foot is recommended.
Page | 236
Imitation Single Needle Sleeving
Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine. Compensating Foot is used on second top stitching operation.
11. Attach Center Placket Top Center Folder
Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining. Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder. Please specify: men or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
Page | 237
Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself. Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish. Available in left hand (ladies'-neck start) and right hand (men's-neck start) models. Used to eliminate shading problems and to match stripes and plaids. Please Specify: man's or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts. The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck.
Page | 238
Attach Center Placket (Horn Style Placket Folder)
Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder". Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts. Available with or without lining. Material generally cut in short pieces, but can also be cut in rolls.
Page | 239
Attach Center Placket (French Front Folder)
Generally used on first quality men's shirts. Available for single and double needle machines. Available with or without lining.
Attach Center Placket Plastic Presser Foot
Clear plastic feet are used in conjunction with the center front operation. The transparent feature allows the operator to match stripes and plaids more easily. Available for most multineedle machines.
Page | 240
Attach Center Placket Top Center with Double Lining Track
Allows use of either single ply or full wrap lining. Available for bed plate mount or swing up mount.
12. Pleat Gauge Pleat Gauge
Used for decorative trim on shirt pockets, as wella s back and front body pleats. Made for most double needle machines. Face goods may be in pieces or rolls - lining must be in rolls. Several pleat styles are available.
Page | 241
CHAPTER XIII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
Page | 242
Name: Prior experience (Operations): Sl. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 Target Day Simultaneous 2 3 4 5 5.5 6.5 7 8.5 Parallel with FE Exercise Name Pin Board (RH) Pin Board (LH) Pedal control at max speed (Pe1) Precise stops at max speed (Pe2) Straight stitches at max speed (Pe3) Change direction with needle down (Pe4) Judging changes of direction (Pe5) Swing curve with one hand (Pe6) Swing in circles (Pe7) Swing curves (Pe8) OL Swing straight line (Pe9) OL exact stop (Pe10) OL Straight lines and curves (Pe11) Cleaning machine (Me0) Threading machine (Me1) Re threading machine (Me2) Changing bobbin (Me3) Changing needle (Me4) Changing colour of thread (Me5) Sew endless loop (Fe0) Sew 6 x 6, sewing off (Fe1) Sew 6 x 6, Staying within (Fe2) Sew 6 x 6, Back tack (Fe3) Sew 3 sides 6 x 12 (Fe4) 12 x 6, Top stitch (Fe5) Back tack 12 x 12, (Fe6) Hemming 6x6 in chain (5 pcs)(Fe7) Attach Pocket (Fe8) Cuff Run stitch Cuff top stitch Collar Run stitch Collar top stitch Collar pick ready Sleeve Plackets attach Sleeve Plackets finishing Back yoke attach & Edge stitch Shoulder attach &Edge stitch Collar attaching & finishing Side seam attach Bottom hemming Sleeve attaching Sleeve Finishing Start Date
Starting Date: Ending Date: Trainers Name: End Target Date 45 sec 90 sec 6 sec 5 sec 10 sec 8 sec 16 sec 6 sec 34 sec 5 sec 10 sec 20 sec 15 sec 35 sec 40 sec 8 sec 12 sec 8 sec 25 sec 15 sec 18 sec 21 sec 21 sec 14 sec 20 sec 30 sec 45 sec 45 sec 33 sec 35 sec 29 sec 60 sec 51 sec 120 sec 60 sec 60 sec 81 sec 120 sec 50 sec 39 sec 45 sec
2 best time
nd
Remarks
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 27 28 29 30
Page | 243

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SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL

ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ

2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)

113 To 116 117 To 127

7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES

CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE

1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE

2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE

3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:

Belt (motor belt or machine belt) Bobbin Mechanism

Bobbin winder check spring (tension spring or take-up spring)

feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or feed) fly wheel) Fittings

Hand wheel flywheel) Head

Presser bar Presser bar lifter

Presser foot Pressure regulator

Rotary hook assembly Shuttle

Slack thread regulator Slide plate (slide or bed slide)

Sole (shoe or slipper) Stand Stitch hole (needle hole)

Stitch regulator Switch (power switch)

Take-up lever guard Tension discs

Thread guides (thread eyelets)

Thread retainer (pretension)

Thread stand Throat plate

Treadle (foot treadle)

5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE

D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE

E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

F. FEED OF THE ARM

Paper Scissors Fabric Scissors

Tracing Wheel Trimmer

Measuring Scale Pencil & Eraser

SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES

Some of the Examples are:

3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST Example:

CHAPTER-IV TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS

Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity

SNLS Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity

Goal: 6 Seconds Illustration:

Exercise Number : Paper Exercise #1

chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.

Precise stops at maximum speed

Exercise Number : Paper exercise # 2

Straight stitches at maximum velocity

SNLS Straight stitches at maximum velocity

Exercise Number : Paper exercise #3

Each cycle includes two lines

Back rest facing forward.

Change of Direction with Needle Down

START STOP Page | 38

Exercise Number : Paper exercise:4

Each cycle contains 3 lines and 2 90 turns.

Sewing Curve with One Hand

Exercise Number : Paper exercise # 5

Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.