Scribd Logo
Upload

Welcome to Scribd!

  • 12K views

    Kalamkari PPT FINAL - PPT

    Uploaded by

    Kaladher Reddy
    Kalamkari is a traditional hand-painted or block-printed textile from Andhra Pradesh, India. There are two main styles - the Srikalahasti style uses pen and brush to depict mythological scenes, while the Machilipatnam style uses block printing and features Persian and floral motifs. The craft has been practiced for over 3000 years using natural dyes on cotton or silk. The complex process involves numerous steps like bleaching, dyeing, printing, and fixing colors. Final products include furnishings, garments, and home decor with the artisanal textiles marketed both domestically and internationally.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Kalamkari PPT FINAL - PPT

    Uploaded by

    Kaladher Reddy
    12K views36 pages
    Kalamkari is a traditional hand-painted or block-printed textile from Andhra Pradesh, India. There are two main styles - the Srikalahasti style uses pen and brush to depict mythological scenes, while the Machilipatnam style uses block printing and features Persian and floral motifs. The craft has been practiced for over 3000 years using natural dyes on cotton or silk. The complex process involves numerous steps like bleaching, dyeing, printing, and fixing colors. Final products include furnishings, garments, and home decor with the artisanal textiles marketed both domestically and internationally.

    Original Description:

    eturtutuk

    Original Title

    Kalamkari PPT FINAL.ppt,

    Copyright

    © Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)

    Available Formats

    PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Did you find this document useful?

    Is this content inappropriate?

    Kalamkari is a traditional hand-painted or block-printed textile from Andhra Pradesh, India. There are two main styles - the Srikalahasti style uses pen and brush to depict mythological scenes, while the Machilipatnam style uses block printing and features Persian and floral motifs. The craft has been practiced for over 3000 years using natural dyes on cotton or silk. The complex process involves numerous steps like bleaching, dyeing, printing, and fixing colors. Final products include furnishings, garments, and home decor with the artisanal textiles marketed both domestically and internationally.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    12K views36 pages

    Kalamkari PPT FINAL - PPT

    Uploaded by

    Kaladher Reddy
    Kalamkari is a traditional hand-painted or block-printed textile from Andhra Pradesh, India. There are two main styles - the Srikalahasti style uses pen and brush to depict mythological scenes, while the Machilipatnam style uses block printing and features Persian and floral motifs. The craft has been practiced for over 3000 years using natural dyes on cotton or silk. The complex process involves numerous steps like bleaching, dyeing, printing, and fixing colors. Final products include furnishings, garments, and home decor with the artisanal textiles marketed both domestically and internationally.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 36

    HAND & BLOCK PRINTED TEXTILES

    KALAMKARI OF ANDHRA PRADESH

    KALAMKARI OF ANDHRA PRADESH.

    INTRODUCTION
    Kalamkari: kalam means pen and kari means work, literally pen work. Hand painting as well as block printing.

    Done with vegetable dyes.


    Can be dated back to 3000 years

    Major centers in Andhra Pradesh: Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti

    HISTORY
    Kalamkari craft is very old. Reached its peak point in the Golconda sultanate, Hyderabad, in the middle age. Golconda ruler, Qutab Shahi wanted a strong trade relationship with Persian Empire. Southeast Asian and Indonesian markets demanded Indian textiles for ritual and ceremonial use. Machilipatnam became famous easy export of goods from Bandar port.

    TWO DISTINCTIVE STYLES OF PAINTING

    SRIKALAHASTI

    MACHILIPATNAM

    DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TWO STYLES OF PAINTING


    PARAMETERS
    WORK METHOD

    SRIKALAHASTI
    WITH PEN OR BRUSH

    MACHILIPATNAM
    HAND BLOCK PRINTING INDIGO BLUE IS USED AS SECONDARY COLOR PERSIAN & BRITISH MOTIFS(BUDS, FLORAL, LEAVES)

    COLORS

    INDIGO BLUE IS NOT USED

    MOTIFS

    FROM MYTHOLOGICAL TALES, IMAGES OF GODS & GODESSES WALL HANGINGS & DECORATIVE ITEMS

    END PRODUCTS

    GARMENTS, UPHOLSTERY & LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

    SRIKALAHASTI STYLE.
    Temples are the major inspiration. The art can be predominantly seen in scrolls and wall hangings. It richly displays episodes from the Puranas, Mahabharata, Ramayana, and other Mythological stories. The motifs are restricted to Gods such as Krishna, Brahma, Ganesha, Durga, Lakshmi, Rama, Shiva and Parvathi.

    SRIKALAHASTI PAINTINGS

    MACHILIPATNAM STYLE.
    Machilipatnam or Masulipatnam designs are Iranian in character with intricate and delicate forms. The old traditional block prints with Persian motifs like trees, creepers, flowers and leaf designs are used. This style of Kalamkari is mainly done on bed covers, curtains and also garments. In the 19th century, reached its peak and even today it is largely produced for Indians and foreigners.

    MACHILIPATNAM PAINTINGS

    UNIQUENESS OF KALAMKARI
    Use of natural dyes. Intricate and delicate Persian motifs Traditional blocks of teakwood used. Perfect harmony and distribution of colors. Natural dyes extracted from bark, flower and root are used.

    PATTERNS AND MOTIFS USED


    Inspired from Persian art Mainly floral motifs and paisleys In case of durries, geometric motifs are used

    GEOMETRIC

    FLORAL

    Different forms of the lotus flower, the cartwheel, parrots & an interlacing pattern of leaves and flowers. Animal forms and floral motifs - Middle-Eastern market. Tree-of-life bedcovers and dress material painted for the European market.

    TREE OF LIFE

    PEACOCK

    BLOCKS USED
    Block made of Teak wood: - Medium weight yet strong. - Remains stable in erratic weather conditions. - Can withstand heavy beating due to inherent strength. Types of blocks based on end use: - Outline block Massa, Reiki - Filling block Datta - Background block Gadh, Kappu

    WOODEN BLOCK

    Types of blocks based on material: - Wooden block - Nail block - Wax block

    WAX BLOCK

    NAIL BLOCK

    TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS REQUIRED FOR KALAMKARI


    earthen pots plastic buckets/drums copper vessels nylon brush color tray squeezer printing table construction: neem or teak wood pen hammer

    PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR KALAMKARI


    GREY CLOTH CUTTING NATURAL BLEACHING MYROBALAM TREATMENT PRINTING

    WASHING
    BOILING STARCH APPLICATION PAINTING ALUM TREATMENT WASHING WITH SOAP

    GREY CLOTH CUTTING


    Batches of 100 metres or above are purchased from textile mills It is then cut into pieces of length varying from 10 -15 metres.

    GREY CLOTH

    NATURAL BLEACHING
    Pieces are beaten on stones and washed and spread on floor with grass and water. All pieces kept overnight. Beating and spreading operations repeated next day morning. All pieces washed well and dried by afternoon.

    MYROBALAM TREATMENT
    Myrobalam seeds are powdered and about 25.30gms of the powder is soaked in per litre of water overnight. The juice is extracted in which the bleached cloth is soaked uniformly for 25-30 mins. The cloth is squeezed by hand & allowed to dry in sun. The treatment is given so that the colors adhere to the cloth.

    MYROBALAM SEEDS MYROBALAM SOLUTION

    PRINTING
    The first step is the printing of the design outlines using wooden blocks. Black color is used for the outlines. After applying black color on the outlines, the alum paste is used on the cloth for getting red color wherever required.

    OUTLINE WITH BLACK COLOR

    FOR OBTAINING BLACK COLOR


    Removal of rust iron pieces -Heating with cow dung - scrubbing with bricks

    Preparation of mixture (iron + jaggery + water)

    RUST IRON PIECES

    Left in closed earthen pots for 21 days (stirred once in a week) JAGGERY Solution + gum left for 1-2 days

    Stirred, filtered and ready to use MIXTURE IN POT

    FOR OBTAINING RED COLOR

    Roots of madder plant(powdered)

    Alum + water + alizarin(powdered madder roots)

    ROOTS OF MADDER PLANT

    Preparation time: 3-4 hrs

    Ready to use
    COLOR OBTAINED FROM MADDER

    FOR OBTAINING BLUE COLOR


    Water + crushed Alta seeds Added to the dye tank

    Water boiled in a separate container, cooled overnight & added to the dye tank INDIGO DYE CAKES

    Paste + water + indigo dye cakes added to the tank

    Contents stirred & kept for a day

    Lime is added & stirred

    LEAVES OF INDIGO PLANT

    FOR OBTAINING YELLOW COLOR


    Boiling of myrobalam flowers in water to soften them

    Cooling of solution

    Filtering of solution

    Addition of alum MYROBALAM FLOWERS Stirring the solution

    WASHING
    The printed cloth is washed in flowing water or in a pond with fresh water. Cloth is then squeezed and dried. All mordants should be removed.

    BOILING
    Depending on the colors/shades required, the dried cloth is boiled in copper vessels. Washed well to remove impurities. Left for drying. Time: 45 mins for boiling.

    STARCH APPLICATION
    Starch Solution( boiled rice water + fresh buffalo milk To provide stiffness to the printed cloth. It avoids spreading of second color paint.

    COLOR PAINTING
    Color is applied using brush (kalam) made up of date palm sticks. It is applied randomly between the motif /designs. Green color is obtained when painting over indigo.

    ALUM TREATMENT
    To fix the yellow color permanently on the cloth. The fabric is dried after treating with alum.

    TREATMENT OF CLOTH WITH ALUM

    WASHING WITH SOAP


    Last and the final process. The cloth is soaked in soap water and then washed carefully. It is dried in sunlight.

    WASHING OF CLOTH

    DRYING OF CLOTH

    PRODUCT RANGE
    Dress material Mens kurta Cushion Handkerchief Durries Home furnishing etc.

    VARIETY OF PRODUCTS

    PRODUCT RANGE

    VARIETY OF PRODUCTS

    CONCLUSION
    Targeted markets are both export as well as domestic market. Local markets include Delhi, Hyderabad, Chennai, Kolkata and Mumbai. Overseas exports include U.S, U.K, China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh. No means of advertisement.

    THANK YOU

    You might also like