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325 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1998
One day I was wandering in the market in Kampala...Suddenly, a band of children came up the street that led up from the lake, calling, Samaki! Samaki ('fish' in Swahili). People gathered, joyful at the prospect that there would be something to eat. The fisherman threw their catch onto the table, and when the onlookers saw it, they grew still and silent. The fish was fat, enormous. These waters never used to yield such monstrously proportioned, overfed specimens. Everybody knew that for a long time now Amin's henchmen had been dumping the bodies of their victims into the lake, and that crocodiles and meat-eating fish must have been feasting on them. The crowd remained silent. Then, a military vehicle happened by. The soldiers saw the gathering, as well as the fish on the table, and stopped. Those of us standing nearby could see the corpse of a man lying on the truck bed. We saw the soldiers heave the fish on to the truck, throw the dead, barefoot man onto the table for us, and quickly drive away. And we heard their coarse, lunatic laughter.It's really hard to imagine a society sunk so low, but for millions of people over twenty years, this was their reality.
The market in Onitsha is where all the roads and paths of mercantile Africa converge. I was fascinated by Onitsha because it is the only market I know of that has spawned its own literature, the Onitsha Market Literature. Dozens of Nigerian writers live and work in Onitsha and are published by as many publishing houses, which have their own printing presses and bookshops in the marketplace. It is a diverse literature--romances, poems, and plays (the latter staged by the numerous little theatrical companies in the market), folk comedies, farces and vaudevilles. There are many didactic tales, countless self-help pamphlets, such as "How to Fall in Love?" or "How to Fall Out of Love?" Many little novellas like "Mabel, or Sweet Honey that has Poured Away," or "Love Games, and Then Disenchantment." Everything is meant to move you, to make you weep, and also to offer instruction and disinterested advice. Literature must be useful, believe the authors from Onitsha, and in the market they find a huge audience thirsty for wisdom and vicarious experience. Whoever cannot afford the brochure masterpiece (or simply doesn't know how to read) can listen to its message for a penny--the admission fee to authors' readings, which take place often here in the shade of stalls piled high with oranges, yams or onions.
Ordinary people here (in Zanzibar) treat political cataclysms--coups d'état, military takeovers, revolutions, wars--as phenomena belonging to the realm of nature. They approach them with exactly the same apathetic resignation & fatalism as they would a tempest. One must just wait them out, hiding under the roof, peering out from time to time to observe the sky, then in time resume that which was momentarily interrupted--work, a journey, sitting in the sun.Having lived in Africa, my own evaluation is that its people feel extreme, even paralyzing fear in the face of a cataclysm, just like those in more developed countries. My concern with this kind of writing is that someone just passing through a place like Zanzibar in the midst of upheaval, en route to a potential journalistic scoop, should dispense with such expansive generalizations.
as we walked, we were participating in a struggle in ceaseless & dangerous maneuvers, in potential collisions & clashes with other groups that could at any moment end badly. For a Somali is usually born on the road, in a shack-tent or directly under the open sky. He will not know his place of birth; it will not have been written down. Like his parents, he will have no single town or village to call his home.Beyond that, the wealth & status of a Somali depends on & is also defined by his relationship to camels, just as that of the Tutsis is based on an ingrained sense of the importance of cattle. Kapuscinski also informs the reader of an innate quality of sharing whatever one has, at least in much of Africa and even if the village is beset with extreme scarcity of food or other essentials. But even after countless trips to Africa, mostly sub-Saharan Africa, the author still comments:
He has but a single identity--it is determined by his ties to family, to the kinship group, to the clan. When two strangers meet, their personal rapport has no meaning; their relationship, friendly or hostile, whether to attack or to embrace, depends on the current state of affairs between the two clans. The human being, the singular, distinct person, does not exist--or he matters only as part of this or that bloodline.
I have often been unable to determine exactly what the people are doing. Perhaps, they are not doing anything. They don't even talk. They resemble people sitting for hours in a doctor's waiting room but in the end the doctor will arrive. Here no one arrives. No one arrives & no one leaves. The air trembles, undulates, stirs restlessly, like over a kettle of boiling water.Again, when a journalist moves from place to place on a continent as large as Africa, sometimes randomly, it is undoubtedly more difficult to get a proper feel for the context within individual settings. In the later vignettes, Kapuscinski's writing seems more balanced, more nuanced, less critical & his patience with Africa seems enhanced.