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    Fodor's InFocus Savannah: With Hilton Head and the Lowcountry
    Fodor's InFocus Savannah: With Hilton Head and the Lowcountry
    Fodor's InFocus Savannah: With Hilton Head and the Lowcountry
    Ebook330 pages3 hours

    Fodor's InFocus Savannah: With Hilton Head and the Lowcountry

    By Fodor’s Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    Whether you want to learn haunted history during a ghost tour, take a river boat cruise, or taste locally-brewed beer, the local Fodor‘s travel experts in Savannah are here to help! Fodor‘s InFocus Savannahguidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has been fully-redesigned with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.

    Fodor‘s InFocus Savannah travel guide includes:

    • AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
    • MORE THAN 10 DETAILED MAPS to help you navigate confidently
    • COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
    • HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, side-trips, and more
    • PHOTO-FILLED FEATURES on “Don‘t Miss Dishes,” “Savannah Historic Essentials,” “Drinks with a View,” and more
    • TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
    • HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local people, politics, art, architecture, cuisine, music, geography and more
    • SPECIAL FEATURES on "Gullah Culture," “What to Watch and Read,” and “Calendar of Events”
    • LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
    • UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: Hilton Head, the Lowcountry, Tybee Island, Savannah‘s Historic District, the Moon River District, the Bonaventure Cemetery, and more.

    Planning on visiting other places in the Southeast? Check out Fodor‘s InFocus Charleston, Fodor's The Carolinas and Georgia, and Fodor's Florida.

    *Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.

    ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor‘s has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateJun 25, 2024
    ISBN9781640977266
    Fodor's InFocus Savannah: With Hilton Head and the Lowcountry
    Author

    Fodor’s Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Book preview

      Fodor's InFocus Savannah - Fodor’s Travel Guides

      Chapter 1. EXPERIENCE SAVANNAH

      16 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

      Savannah offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

      1 Relax in a Cemetery

      The dead and the living share the beautiful, slightly spooky green spaces of Revolutionary War–era Colonial Cemetery, the famous Bonaventure. (Ch. 6)

      2 Take a Pedicab Ride

      Hop in one of these bicycle-wheeled vehicles from Savannah Pedicab or Royal Bike Taxi, powered by charming humans who are full of local intel and travel the entire historic district for tips. (Ch. 3)

      3 Shop for Antiques

      With almost 300 years of history here, antiquing is practically an art form. Peruse old historic mansions-turned-shops and wondrous warehouses to find the perfect piece of furniture or knickknack to take home. (Ch. 3)

      4 Sip Local Brews

      Fill a pint glass with unique IPAs, pilsners, sours, and other hopped-up suds from a bevy of fine breweries. (Ch. 3)

      5 Sit in a Square

      Cultivate Savannah’s favorite pastime on a bench in a square or park chatting with your favorite folks or a new friend among the beauty of the azaleas, camellias, and magnolias. (Ch. 3)

      6 Dig Deeper into History

      A major port for the Transatlantic slave trade, Savannah preserves a slew of important African American historic locations, including Underground Railroad stops and the Civil Rights Museum. (Ch. 1, 3)

      7 Eat Local Shrimp

      Whether you like ‘em barbecued, boiled, baked, stir-fried, or over grits, ask for plump, sweet wild Georgia shrimp caught in the nets of local fishing fleets, á la Forrest Gump. (Ch. 3, 7)

      8 Visit the Beach

      Just a 25-minute drive from downtown lie the beaches of Tybee Island, where you can catch sunrays and surf, build sand castles, and watch ships glide into the horizon. (Ch. 7)

      9 Take a Dolphin Cruise

      Take a boat tour to commune with the friendly mammals who feed on shrimp and other goodies in local marshes—they are most active at sunrise and sunset. (Ch. 7)

      10 Mercer Williams House

      The historic former home of Jim Williams, who was the central figure in John Berendt’s Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, is now a museum. (Ch. 3)

      11 Explore Modern Art

      A dynamic arts community supports a revolving roll of fascinating contemporary exhibits at the Jepson Center for the Arts and SCAD MOA. (Ch. 3)

      12 Walk Up Bull Street

      This Spanish-moss draped boulevard runs for two miles, passing by squares and shops, Forsyth Park, the Victorian District, and the heart of the Starland District. (Ch. 3, 4, 5)

      13 Salute the Girl Scouts

      Thousands of girls in green make the pilgrimage every year to the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, the First Girl Scout Headquarters, and the new national corporate offices. (Ch. 3)

      14 Explore Military History

      If historic battlegrounds are your thing, strap on your combat boots to explore Revolutionary and Civil War history at Fort Pulaski, Old Fort Jackson, and Tricentennial Park. (Ch. 3, 6)

      15 Hunt for Ghosts

      Savannah may be one of the most haunted cities in America. Check out hallowed places like the Eliza Thompson House, 17Hundred90, The Pirates’ House, and of course, Bonaventure Cemetery. (Ch. 1, 3, 6)

      16 Look for a Flying Dinosaur

      Turn your head upward inside the lobby at Plant Riverside, where a real, chromed skeleton of Amphicoelias fragillimus flies above other ancient fossils and sparkling geodes. (Ch. 3)

      WHAT’S WHERE

      dingbat The Historic District. This area is home to the city’s historic squares as well as many of its finest hotels, restaurants, and shopping.

      dingbat The Victorian District and Eastside. The Victorian District is where you’ll find gorgeous homes that date to the 1800s.

      dingbat The Starland District, Thomas Square, and Midtown. The Starland District and Thomas Square have funky shops and great restaurants. Midtown is home to historic Grayson Stadium.

      dingbat The Moon River District. Twenty minutes south of the Historic District toward the marsh, this area includes the Sandfly, Isle of Hope, and Skidaway Island neighborhoods.

      dingbat The Islands and Thunderbolt. About 15 minutes east of the Historic District, this area includes Wilmington and Whitemarsh Islands as well as the town of Thunderbolt.

      dingbat Tybee Island. A barrier island 18 miles east of Savannah, Tybee is a quirky beach town with kitschy shops, interesting restaurants, and outdoor activities.

      dingbat Southside, Gateway, and Greater Savannah. Southside (anything south of Derenne Avenue) is far from downtown. Gateway is right off of I–95 and home to the Coastal Georgia Botanical Gardens.

      Savannah Today

      It may seem like a sleepy town full of old mansions and ancient oaks, but behind Savannah’s venerable moss curtain lies a city pulsing with cutting-edge restaurants, modern art, and a nightlife that keeps folks out ‘til dawn. There are plenty of museums and house tours to satisfy your history jones, and the golden marshes and sandy beaches surrounding downtown offer all manner of outdoor recreation. While many try to draw comparisons to Charleston and other storied Southern cities, Savannah has a fascinating past, contemporary culture, and dynamic vibe all its own.

      THE 13TH COLONY

      In 1733, General James Oglethorpe claimed this inland bluff for England’s King George, establishing Savannah as the first city in the fledgling 13th colony. Among his first orders were to forbid slavery, lawyers, and liquor—all of which went by the wayside quickly. With help from Indigenous residents Tomochichi and Mary Musgrove, the outpost soon grew into a thriving port that attracted commercial trade (including slavery) from across the Atlantic and other established cities along the coast. During the American Revolution, French, Polish, and Haitian soldiers fought against the British in the Siege of Savannah. When General William T. Sherman came to Savannah after burning Atlanta to win the Civil War, legend has it that he was so enchanted by the city that he left its homes and businesses intact, presenting it instead to President Abraham Lincoln as a Christmas gift.

      SAVANNAH’S SQUARES

      Oglethorpe’s unique layout of green spaces surrounded by residences has endured through the centuries, and the city’s downtown continues to be heralded as a lasting example of excellent urban planning. Three of the four original squares—Johnson, Wright, and Telfair—still exist in the same footprint as they did almost 300 years ago; the fourth, Ellis Square, was exhumed from underneath a parking garage in 2005 and now provides a modern gathering place near City Market. Today 22 of the 24 original squares survive, inviting passersby to sit under the trees, listen to sparkling fountains and enjoy the scenery.

      HISTORIC PRESERVATION

      In the 1950s, after witnessing the demolition of yet another beloved historic structure, a group of Savannah women organized the Historic Savannah Foundation, which went on to save dozens of homes and commercial buildings such as the Davenport House and Kennedy Pharmacy. Forty years later, the Savannah College of Art & Design pioneered a historic preservation degree program, which has restored many downtown structures into stunning, functional spaces as part of the SCAD campus. These and ongoing efforts to shore up and revamp Savannah’s antebellum and Victorian-era edifices contribute significantly to the city’s value as a place to visit and live.

      TOURISM AND THE TO GO CUP

      While Savannah has always been a historically popular vacation destination, from rural farmers looking for fun in the big city or millionaires racing fancy cars around the track across the river, there is no doubt that John Berendt’s 1994 bestselling book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil created an international buzz around the Hostess City that has resulted in a tourism boom that’s kept on booming. These days Savannah welcomes more than 14 million visitors a year to its cobblestone streets, many of whom come to explore its charms and take advantage of the generous cocktails to go policy (unlike most American cities, Savannah allows people to walk around the city with alcoholic beverages as long as they’re in a plastic cup).

      PORT OF SAVANNAH

      If you stand on River Street for any time at all, chances are you’ll come face-to-stern with one of the biggest ships you’ve ever seen. Often stacked ten stories high with colorful containers, these massive ships deliver goods from around the globe to the Port of Savannah, the second-largest and fastest-growing seaport on the East Coast. The carriers must travel 18 miles from the open ocean and sail under the Talmadge Bridge to reach the port’s massive cranes, where they are unloaded onto a revolving fleet of trucks that distribute them throughout the southeast. Tugboats guide the giants up and down the channel, and to accomodate the increasing size of the ships, the river must be constantly dredged.

      Savannah Historic Essentials

      TYBEE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE

      Georgia’s oldest and, at 145 feet, tallest lighthouse has stood since 1736, offering incomparable coastal views to those who brave its 178 steps.

      TRICENTENNIAL PARK

      Three centuries of history are encompassed in this grand brick complex, including Revolutionary War battlegrounds and the Central of Georgia Railroad Roundhouse.

      FIRST AFRICAN BAPTIST CHURCH

      The oldest Black church in North America has operated continuously since 1773, providing solace to parishioners and serving as a stop on the Underground Railroad.

      BONAVENTURE CEMETERY

      Famous for its exquisite statuary and famous residents like songwriter Johnny Mercer, poet Conrad Aiken, and Little Gracie Watson, this 160-acre parcel provides quietude and river views.

      FLANNERY O’CONNOR CHILDHOOD HOME

      Southern Gothic’s literary grand dame lived in this three-story house on Lafayette Square until she was ten (when her family decamped to Milledgeville, Georgia to live at Andalusia Farm), experiencing her first brush with fame when she taught a chicken to walk backwards.

      JULIETTE GORDON LOW BIRTHPLACE

      Built in the 1820s, this beautifully preserved house museum is where the founder of the Girl Scouts began her worldwide movement in the parlor. It was designated Savannah’s first historic landmark in 1965.

      RALPH MARK GILBERT CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM

      Follow Savannah’s African American history from its tragic inception to its thriving business districts to its peaceful protests of the 1960s.

      CONGREGATION MICKVE ISRAEL

      Home to the third-oldest Jewish congregation in the U.S., the Gothic synagogue on Monterey Square offers tours of its sanctuary and museum, which houses one of the oldest Torah scrolls in North America.

      OWENS-THOMAS HOUSE & SLAVE QUARTERS

      Under the auspices of Telfair Museums, tours of this 1819 Regency mansion and its gardens explore the household’s fraught relationship between the home’s owners and enslaved people against the backdrop of beautiful restoration.

      CATHEDRAL BASILICA OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST

      The double spires, stained-glass windows and procession of carved saints make this Roman Catholic church on Lafayette Square a destination for the religious and non-religious alike.

      Don’t-Miss Dishes

      SHRIMP N’ GRITS

      Savannah’s iconic meal of wild-caught Georgia shrimp over a bowl of creamy corn grits gets superstar treatment at Cotton & Rye, where it’s served in its own cast-iron pan.

      WHOLE FISH

      Whether it’s crispy scored flounder, lip-smacking mackerel, or lemony redfish, you can’t go wrong with anything prepared fresh off the line with its head on at The Grey.

      CHICKEN FINGERS

      Even if you consider finger food too pedestrian, these crispy, juicy delights ubiquitous to kiddie menus everywhere were actually invented at Spanky’s River Street and deserve a dip in your favorite sauce.

      CUBAN SANDWICH

      Soft bread, delicious ham, and homemade pickle pressed to perfection make up this signature street-fare snack.

      RACK OF RIBS

      Slow-smoked for hours in a parking lot and slathered with secret sauce, the best braised bones in town come from Tricks BBQ in the Starland District.

      MEAT & THREE

      Sisters of the New South offers up platters of pork chops, oxtails, or fried chicken surrounded by sweet potatoes, okra, collard greens, red beans, or yellow rice—the hard part is having to choose just three.

      RED VELVET CAKE TRUFFLE

      Every confection at Chocolat by Adam Turoni is a delectable dream, but these flavors in particular put the South in your mouth in the sweetest possible way. A full selection of delicious treats are available at two impeccably decorated downtown locations.

      BISCUITS & GRAVY

      There’s a reason why there’s always a long line at Mrs. Wilkes’ Boarding House, where folks sit together family-style to dig into traditional Southern staples. Best y’all mind your manners!

      BAKED CHEESE SANDWICH

      You don’t have to be a vegetarian to fall in love with this heralded favorite from Brighter Day Natural Foods, stuffed with tomatoes, sprouts, and special sauce on whole-grain bread.

      LA DIAVIOLA PIZZA

      This spicy pie full of olives and garlic at Pizzeria Vittoria Napoletana inside Starland Yard might have you swearing that you ended up in Naples instead of Savannah; get extra chilies if you dare.

      Drinks with a View

      ROCKS ON THE ROOF

      The bar on top of The Bohemian hotel offers a look at the ships passing to and from the port—and a chance to win a round of Tequila Verditas every evening as part of the Hail and Farewell Challenge.

      THE PEREGIN

      Atop Perry Lane Hotel awaits glorious bridge views and the finest rosé slushies in all the land. The crafted shaken and stirred cocktails are just as good, especially when paired with some tacos or a burger.

      TOP DECK

      Enjoy the fresh breezes, sweeping vistas, and the formidable whiskey and scotch list found at the pinnacle of the Cotton Sail Hotel. Pair your cocktail with a flatbread or slider.

      A-J’S DOCKSIDE

      Grab a beer and squeeze yourself into a spot at this popular Tybee stronghold to watch the sun set behind Little Tybee. If you decide to stay for dinner, there’s a full menu that includes fresh seafood, steaks, chicken fingers, sandwiches, and salads.

      PERCH

      Escape the sidewalk hubbub in this aerie in the oak trees on top of Local 11ten with its delightful wine list and small bites. Enjoy the views of Forsyth Park during happy hour or until the sun goes down.

      ELECTRIC MOON SKYTOP LOUNGE

      You can see for miles from the roof of Plant Riverside, but the real spectacle is in your glass: try a Short Circuit craft cocktail in a flashing lightbulb cup. Stay for a shrimp corn dog or jerk chicken wings.

      THE WYLD

      Listen to the water lap at the dock as you make your way through a Painkiller or three and some fresh seafood; the luckiest folks get here by boat or kayak.

      THE LOST SQUARE

      High above the riverfront at the Apex of the Alida Hotel sits an elegant outdoor spot boasting a creative cocktail menu that rotates with the seasons. Add some charcuterie or marinated olives.

      FANNIE’S ON THE BEACH

      You can’t miss the candy pink building on Tybee Island’s south end; climb to the third floor for generous pours and unbroken views of the Atlantic Ocean. There’s a full menu of seafood and sandwiches, too.

      BAR JULIAN

      Gain new perspective from the top of the Thompson, where three sides look out onto the newly constructed Eastern Wharf with views of the Savannah River, Talmadge Bridge, and the finest sunsets in town.

      Savannah with Kids

      Touring historic homes and visiting museums might be fascinating for grown-ups, but let’s face it, children don’t always share that sentiment. Good thing Savannah offers plenty of hands-on adventures to keep little minds occupied while showcasing the city’s history, cultural arts, and ecology.

      IN THE HISTORIC DISTRICT

      One good bet for kids of all ages is Tricentennial Park, which includes the Savannah Children’s Museum and its epic outdoor playground built in the ruins of an old woodshed, and the Georgia State Railroad Museum, where families can explore the old roundhouse tracks and catch a ride on an antique train engine during warmer months. This spot is close to most of the downtown hotels and an excellent open zone to let travel-fevered kids run off some steam. Afterward, head over to the Pirates’ House where they can explore the old dungeon and practice their best arrrgh with the servers.

      For a dose of culture, families flock to the Children’s Art Museum (CAM) inside the Jepson Center for the Arts, featuring interactive exhibits about painting and architecture. If making art is your family jam, check out Henny Penny Café on Bull Street where kids can take a drop-in painting lesson while parents enjoy lattes and pastries. The Girl Scouts were launched in Savannah over a hundred years ago, and even if you’ve never taken the oath you can tour the First Headquarters, the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, and the new national offices with its souvenir gift shop featuring a few flavor of its famous cookies, even in the off season.

      If it’s warm outside, hit the sidewalk fountains at Ellis Square, where jets of water shoot up in the middle of the park (be sure to bring a towel and a change of clothes; this is a wet activity). A few blocks south, the skies are wide open at Forsyth Park, where two playgrounds, a fragrant garden, and green fields perfect for tossing a Frisbee or football invite everyone to play outside. For snacks and services at the park, the restored historic fort in the middle offers public restrooms, the Collins Quarter Café, and a visitor information kiosk. For older kids who want their own scene, the Sentient Bean coffee shop on the south end of the park is one of the city’s few all-ages venues.

      ELSEWHERE IN SAVANNAH

      When it comes to entertaining children, you can’t go wrong with the beach: Enjoying Tybee Island can be as simple as bringing a blanket to relax on North Beach while the kids make sand castles and chase the surf, or rent bicycles or kayaks to explore farther. Kid-friendly eats can be found at Huc-A-Poos and Bubba Gumbo’s, and ice cream on the Tybee Island Pier & Pavilion is a summer tradition. An immersive experience under live oaks, The Crab Shack is a kid favorite for several reasons: excellent hush puppies; tables that have holes in the middle where diners push their spent seafood platters instead of clearing the table; and dozens of baby alligators kept in their own habitat for safe up-close viewing—and feeding!

      To hang out with more indigenous wildlife, make the drive to The Oatland Island Wildlife Center, a few miles east of downtown Savannah. This outdoor

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