Travel Guide Florida
By Regis St Louis, Amy Bizzarri, Jennifer Edwards and
3.5/5
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About this ebook
Lonely Planet's Florida is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the state has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Sip a pina colada poolside, catch an unforgettable concert in a Miami club and experience the thrills of Universal Orlando Resort; all with your trusted travel companion.
Inside Lonely Planet's Florida Travel Guide:
Lonely Planet's Top Picks - a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them
Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests
Local insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics
Eating and drinking - get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try
Theme Park Trip Planner
Toolkit - all of the planning tools for solo travelers, LGBTQIA+ travelers, family travelers and accessible travel
Colour maps and images throughout
Language - essential phrases and language tips
Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
Covers Miami, the Everglades, Biscayne, Florida Keys, Key West, the Gold Coast, the Treasure Coast, Walt Disney World, Orlando, the Atlantic Coast, Tampa Bay, the Gulf Coast, Big Bend and more!
About Lonely Planet:
Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travellers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).
'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)
Regis St Louis
Regis St. Louis creció en una pequeña población de interior de EE UU (uno de esos sitios que alimentan los sueños de viajar), y desde niño desarrolló una fascinación por los dialectos y culturas extranjeras. Pasó sus años de formación aprendiendo ruso y un puñado de lenguas romances, que le fueron muy útiles durante sus viajes por buena parte del globo. Ha colaborado en más de 50 títulos de Lonely Planet escribiendo sobre destinos en los seis continentes. Sus viajes le han llevado desde las montañas de Kamchatka hasta aldeas en islas aisladas de Melanesia, pasando por muchos grandes paisajes urbanos. Cuando no viaja, vive en Nueva Orleans. Se pe puede seguir en www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.
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Travel Guide Florida - Regis St Louis
FLORIDA
MapHow To Use This eBookContents
Plan Your Trip
The Journey Begins Here
Florida Map
Our Picks
Regions & Cities
Itineraries
When to Go
Get Prepared
Florida’s Theme Parks
The Food Scene
The Outdoors
The Guide
Miami
Miami Beach
Downtown & Brickell
Little Havana
Wynwood & the Design District
Coral Gables & Coconut Grove
Greater Miami
The Everglades & Biscayne National Park
Northern Everglades
Beyond the Northern Everglades
Southern Everglades
Beyond the Southern Everglades
Biscayne National Park
Florida Keys & Key West
Upper Keys
Middle & Lower Keys
Key West
Southeast Florida
Fort Lauderdale
Beyond Fort Lauderdale
West Palm Beach
Beyond West Palm Beach
Vero Beach
Beyond Vero Beach
Orlando & Walt Disney World®
Walt Disney World®
Magic Kingdom
Disney’s Hollywood Studios
Disney’s Animal Kingdom
Epcot
Disney Springs
Universal Orlando Resort
Islands of Adventure
Universal Studios
Orlando
Beyond Orlando
The Space Coast
Merritt Island & Titusville
Cocoa Beach & Cocoa Village
Port Canaveral & Cape Canaveral
Melbourne & the Beaches
Northeast Florida
St Augustine
Beyond St Augustine
Jacksonville
Amelia Island
Daytona Beach
Tampa Bay & the Southwest
Tampa
Beyond Tampa
St Petersburg
Beyond St Petersburg
Sarasota
Beyond Sarasota
Fort Myers
Naples
Beyond Naples
The Panhandle
Pensacola
Destin
Beyond Destin
Panama City
Apalachicola
Tallahassee
Toolkit
Arriving
Money
Getting Around
Accommodations
Health & Safe Travel
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Family Travel
Responsible Travel
LGBTIQ+
Accessible Travel
Nuts & Bolts
Storybook
A History of Florida in 15 Places
Meet the Floridians
The Inspiring Story of the Florida Highwaymen
Floridian Landscapes
Fantastical Beasts
Fighting for Rights in the Sunshine State
The Many Misadventures of Florida Man
This Book
FLORIDA
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
jpgFort Lauderdale | sean pavone/shutterstock ©
It’s a little clichéd, but Florida always hits me hardest on the coast. The sun sets and the salt licks onto my skin – perfect. Not that I need saltier skin, because I’ve probably already been swimming, at least enough to work up an appetite. On that note, if I’ve got a grouper sandwich or some mojo pork and rice in front of me – well, that’s just gravy. Which coast? There’s a lot to pick from, but any sand works for me. If I’m on Sanibel I’ve got shells under my feet; in the Keys I can hear people laughing at a fishing bar; in the Panhandle there are white dunes like lunar mountains; in Miami the music drips off the city like slow nectar. But I’m focused on smelling the waters, because at the end of the day it’s the ocean (or the Gulf) that gets me in the heart.
Adam Karlin
@adamwalkonfine
Adam is a journalist, writer and teacher who has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks in Asia, Africa and the Americas.
jpgMy favorite experience is the sort of full Miami day that leaves me absolutely gasping: a big breakfast, swimming, galleries, a Caribbean dinner, a night out in neon.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Florida.
jpgjim schwabel/shutterstock ©
‘Just follow me,’ Garl, my barefooted guide, said as he marched into knee-deep water. We soon entered the cypress dome, full of fiery bromeliads and wispy epiphytes. No one who set foot beneath this magical canopy would ever make the mistake of calling the Everglades a swamp.
jpgRegis St Louis
@regis.stlouis
Regis writes about travel and culture, and he has contributed to over 100 Lonely Planet titles.
jpgdominic gentilcore phd/shutterstock ©
Cocoa Beach can be very touristy, but the further south you go, the lonelier the sands get. It’s mostly a local crowd down around 13th St South, where the dunes are particularly beautiful. Sunrise walks here are spectacular, alone with the surf glowing golden and sandpipers dashing in and out of the tide.
jpgTerry Ward
@TerryWardWriter
Terry is a Tampa-based travel writer who loves scuba diving and camping.
jpglunamarina/shutterstock ©
Henderson Beach State Park is just 2 miles from downtown Destin, but once you get into the Gulf, it’s like you’re in pre-population-boom Florida. You can spot dolphins, sea turtles and sometimes jellyfish in the crystal clear water. But it’s the sense of apartness that makes this place so special.
jpgJennifer M Edwards
@fitjenned
Jennifer M Edwards is an editor, author and former daily newspaper journalist.
jpgdelray beach photog ©
Cap’s Place at Lighthouse Point transcends time, to an era of rum running, illegal gambling and decadent speakeasies. History oozes from its crumbling wooden walls. If they could only speak! Scores of dignitaries, celebrities, presidents and athletes have passed through, so the stories would surely be endless. As I feast on some of the best crab cakes I’ve ever had, and toss back a shot, I can almost feel Hemingway’s ghost sitting beside me.
jpgDavid Gibb
@HappyWanderlusters
David is a journalist, author and travel writer.
jpgjames kirkikis/shutterstock ©
Even as a grown-up, riding the monorail at Walt Disney World as it rounds the Seven Seas Lagoon and reveals Cinderella’s Castle in the distance still makes my heart swell with joy. The ecofriendly Walt Disney World Monorail System, which launched in 1971, encapsulates Walt Disney’s vision for a brighter, greener future. Today, it’s one of the most heavily used monorail systems in the world, with over 150,000 daily riders.
jpgAmy Bizzarri
@amybizzarri
Amy is a freelance writer and public school teacher.
Country MapSAND BETWEEN YOUR TOES
Florida’s beaches are among the best and most diverse in the continental United States. So let’s start with two questions: do you prefer sunrise or sunset? Surfing and boogie boarding or sunbathing and sandcastles? For sunrise and surfing, hit the bigger, east-facing waves of the Atlantic Coast; for sandcastles at sunset, choose the soporific, west-facing waters of the Gulf Coast and the Panhandle. Third option? White-sand dunes are more the province of the Panhandle.
Springs
Don’t overlook Florida’s freshwater. Taking a dip in one of the state’s 700 springs – each 72°F (22°C) and, when healthy, clear as glass – is unforgettable.
jpgexploring and living/shutterstock ©
Beaches Gone Viral
Some people swim, some people sunbathe and some people social (media). Take heed: Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami Beach are the influencer beaches.
jpggaudilab/shutterstock ©
Beachwear
Don’t go to a job interview in your flip-flops, but casual beachwear is acceptable in a ton of Florida social scenarios.
jpgCalusa Beach, Bahia Honda State Park | simon dannhauer/shutterstock ©
BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES
jpgNot every Miami beach is a fashion show; head to beautiful, laid-back Crandon Park 1 and enjoy great views of the Magic City skyline.
Explore South Cocoa Beach, 2 which has some of the most beautiful dunes on Florida’s east coast and mellow waves.
The glistening hot sands of Hollywood Beach 3 beckon to those strolling its pedestrian-friendly promenade, the Broadwalk, where beach bars, patios and buskers compete to be the star attraction.
The Panhandle contains some of Florida’s finest sand, including the pristine dunes of Henderson Beach State Park 4 – easily accessible, a drifter’s dream.
Out in the Keys, you’ll find beautiful isolation, rare birds and the ruins of a railroad at Bahia Honda State Park, 5 which cups the arms of Big Pine Key.
ONE STATE, MANY WORLDS
Florida is a world that creates worlds. Down here the artificial environment is authentic – you can be whatever you want to be in destinations like Walt Disney World®, Universal Orlando Resort and LEGOLAND. Yes, there’s crass commercialism, but there are rainbow sparks of imagination that set the minds of children alight in a thousand inspiring ways. People come to Florida to be whatever they want to be, and the theme park is the ultimate expression of that impulse.
Line Up
Don’t like lines? Various iterations of fast passes exist at most Florida theme parks now, and the line experience itself is becoming its own attraction.
jpgsharon wildie/shutterstock ©
Themed Lodging
To stay at a park resort or away from it? The former option is always easier and, inevitably, a heck of a lot more expensive.
jpgeqroy/shutterstock ©
Family or Thrills?
You don’t have to pick! These days, you can easily find seat-of-your-pants rides and family-friendly fun in most parks.
jpgUniversal Studios | universal orlando resort ©
BEST THEME PARK EXPERIENCES
jpgLearn why Walt Disney World® 1 is the benchmark other theme parks are measured against, a world of worlds that constantly strives for reinvention.
Lose yourself in the ride experience at Universal Orlando Resort, 2 then immerse yourself in imagined realms like The Wizarding World of Harry Potter.
Disney’s Animal Kingdom 3 is more than a wildlife park – it’s where Disney innovation meets the natural world and accentuates it.
LEGOLAND 4 is the ideal park for those who want a slightly more laid-back theme park that still offers the chance to (literally!) build new worlds.
Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex 5 has theme park–like rides taking you into the darkest, wildest corners of the solar system.
A TOUR FOR TASTEBUDS
Florida’s culinary scene is an enticing mix of ingredients: Gulf and Atlantic seafood, the best citrus fruits in the US, recipes from America’s Deep South and Latin America, and some extremely talented chefs. Together, they give Florida serious culinary cred. Throw in quirky outliers, such as gator tail and fried snake, and there’s so much to look forward to. At higher-end places, especially in big cities like Miami, you need to book seats in advance.
Alligator
Alligator tastes like a cross between fish and pork. It’s healthier than chicken, with as much protein but half the fat, fewer calories and less cholesterol.
jpghlphoto/shutterstock ©
Cuban Cuisine
Cuban food is itself a mix of Caribbean, African and Latin American influences, and in Tampa and Miami it’s a staple of everyday life and tables.
jpglisa f young/shutterstock ©
Frog’s Legs
Good frog’s legs taste, honestly, like chicken, but with a fishy texture. Those who know say the ‘best’ come from the Everglades.
jpgPoblano pesto shrimp, Fat Snook | harmony lynn/fat snook ©
BEST EATING EXPERIENCES
jpgHead to Enriqueta’s 1 in Wynwood, Miami, for the pure joy of Cuban coffee and chisme (gossip) first thing in the morning.
Once a streetcar repair garage, now Armature Works 2 is Tampa’s destination food hall, showcasing Mexican street food, creative Floridian fare and fresh baked goods.
Sip sunshine with the Dole Whip, vanilla ice cream with a pineapple swirl, at Aloha Isle 3 near the Enchanted Tiki Room in the Magic Kingdom.
Check out the Fat Snook 4 in Cocoa Beach – it’s a much beloved local favorite for Caribbean-inspired seafood in a stylish setting.
Maybe you’ve had Wagyu steak, but have you prepared it? You can at Fort Lauderdale’s Casa Sensei, 5 where table grills and madcap indulgence are the norm.
FRATERNIZE WITH FAUNA
Florida’s natural world is one in which charismatic wildlife species roam against a backdrop of an extraordinary patchwork of landscapes. It’s the panthers and black bears, alligators and manatees who are the headline acts. Plus, the Everglades is a fragile and precious ecosystem, one of the most important wilderness areas in the Lower 48.
The Land
Florida is many things, but elevated it is not. In this pancake-flat state, the interplay of freshwater and saltwater defines the presence of fauna.
jpgpisaphotography/shutterstock ©
The Panhandle
Peninsular Florida isn’t the only ecological game here. The Panhandle’s Apalachicola River basin is a Garden of Eden, in which ice-age plants survive in lost ravines.
jpgcarolyn davidson hicks/shutterstock ©
The Climate
What really sets Florida apart, in terms of its ecology, is that it occupies a subtropical transition zone between northern temperate and southern tropical climates.
BEST WILDLIFE-WATCHING EXPERIENCES
jpgRoll along Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge’s Black Point Wildlife Drive 1 to spot gators, manatees, wading birds and more.
Join the manatees at Manatee Lagoon 2 in West Palm Beach, which attracts hordes of manatees, nurse sharks, stingrays and other marine life.
Explore the Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary 3 – a glorious nature reserve filled with gators, wood storks and Florida panthers.
Don’t miss gators, birds, manatees and crocs at Everglades National Park, 4 one of North America’s best wildlife spots, and mere minutes from Miami.
Have a soggy stomp through Big Cypress National Preserve, 5 home to a slew of alligators, as well as birds and other wildlife.
NIGHT MOVES
Long, sultry nights, outdoor patios that benefit from year-round good weather, views of the ocean, an incredibly diverse population that ranges from immigrant enclaves to military-base towns, and a general sense of hedonism all inform Florida’s nightlife scene. We’ll see you at the club...or the patio...or the college bar...well, there are a lot of options.
jpgOcean Drive, Miami Beach | mariakray/shutterstock ©
Last Call
Across the state of Florida, last call is set at 2am, but individual communities are allowed to set the rules for their own closing times.
Drinks, Alfresco
Year-round warm weather and/or views of the water means that there is a glut of outdoor patio areas and straight-up patio bars inundating the state.
BEST NIGHTLIFE EXPERIENCES
jpgSip a fine cocktail amid an even finer crowd of pretty people at Broken Shaker 1 in Miami Beach.
Like craft cocktails? Like steampunk? Then you’ll love the Edison 2 in Disney Springs, a kind of old-school-meets-sci-fi power plant bar.
Do shots at the Green Parrot, 3 one of the most distinctive bars in Key West.
In Fort Lauderdale, the ‘gays and grays’ hit up art galleries, restaurants and bars in LGBTIQ+ hub Wilton Manors. 4
Tampa’s party people pack into Ybor City, 5 a district where you can’t walk for tripping over a bar or a cigar lounge.
MAKE A SPLASH
Naturalist Marjory Stoneman Douglas once said Florida is like a spoon of freshwater resting delicately in a bowl of saltwater – a spongy brick of limestone hugged by the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. These two bodies of water are both playground and backdrop to a thousand adventures awaiting those willing to get a little wet. Be it surfing, diving, snorkeling or kayaking, there is no lack of waterborne activities for Sunshine State explorers.
Paddling
The winter ‘dry’ season is best for kayaking. Evaporation and receding waterlines force wildlife into highly visible concentrations amid the state’s waterways and pools.
jpgfrancisco blanco/shutterstock ©
Fishing
Fishing in Florida, especially saltwater angling, is among the best the US offers. For variety and abundance, few places in the world can compete.
jpgmaridav/shutterstock ©
Snorkeling
Be it offshore by its reefs, or within its crystal-clear springs, the Sunshine State is unmatched for snorkeling in the Lower 48.
jpgSebastian Inlet | F photography r/shutterstock ©
BEST WATER EXPERIENCES
jpgGo underwater at Biscayne National Park, 1 where it’s all about undersea exploration and marine life, manatees and bird rookeries.)
Try to catch a wave along the surf-centric Space Coast, from Cocoa Beach 2 south to the famed break at Sebastian Inlet.
Plunge into crystal-clear shallow waters at Blue Heron Bridge at Phil Foster Park 3 in West Palm Beach, which teems with divers and snorkelers.
Get wet at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, 4 the first dedicated underwater park in the country, adjacent to its own Keys coral reef.
Dive a 900ft-long aircraft carrier, the Oriskany, deliberately sunk in 2006 off the coast of Pensacola. 5
FLORIDA FESTIVITIES
Florida does not lack festivals. Year-round sunny weather gives people an excuse to be outside and in a celebratory frame of mind. Florida’s ethnic diversity is another reason the calendar is full: people are serious about commemorating their heritage. Plus, this is a state with an economy that is unapologetically built on tourism, so every town and region is always angling to shape and host events that attract more and more visitors.
Fall & Winter
Florida’s winter is the ‘dry’ season. In northern Florida, cool temps make this off-season. In southern Florida, a busy time of events and parties kicks off.
jpgyes i shoot models/shutterstock ©
Spring
Come spring, beaches start to fill with spring breakers, while towns try to either attract partiers or mollify their worst tendencies with cultural events.
jpgrawpixel.com/shutterstock ©
Summer
High season for Florida’s theme parks. Muggy weather drives off some tourists, who are lured back by food festivals and the like.
jpgFantasy Fest, Key West | chuck wagner/shutterstock ©
BEST FESTIVAL EXPERIENCES
jpgLet your inner freak flag fly high and proud at the October bacchanalia that is Fantasy Fest 1 in Key West.
Tiny Apalachicola’s population swells during the Florida Seafood Festival, 2 when the bounty of the waters is showcased in a ridiculously charming town.
Come spring, the world blooms, and Disney World – specifically Epcot – comes alive with Disney-themed topiaries at the International Flower & Garden Festival. 3
Witness the pure creative energy and chaos that is Art Basel 4 in Miami in December, one of the biggest international art shows in the world.
Join over 200 talented artisans who blanket the street in October at the Las Olas Annual Art Fair 5 in Fort Lauderdale.
FIND IT, LOVE IT, BUY IT
Florida is unapologetically into selling you stuff, from five-digit works of original art in a Miami art gallery, to handmade jewelry at a Winter Park crafts fair, to lots of terrible T-shirts. This is the second-most-visited state in the USA, and it would be silly not to grab a souvenir while you’re here.
Malls
We know good execution of a genre when we see it, and few states do malls, especially outdoor open-air shopping centers, like Florida does.
jpgviaval tours/shutterstock ©
Boutiques
A state with this much creativity and diversity is bound to have some little independent shops and boutiques, most evident in cities like Miami and Tampa.
jpgfrantic00/shutterstock ©
Galleries
A piece of original art or craft is a one-of-a-kind gift, and every tourism area is rife with galleries and markets.
BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCES
jpgVisit the unashamedly ritzy Palm Court 1 shopping center in Miami’s Design District, which is part mall and part art installation.
Peruse Historic Cocoa Village, 2 a haven for vintage shops, boutiques and galleries stuffed into a few, tree-lined blocks.
Tallahassee’s Railroad Square Art District 3 is a fun fair of food trucks, artsy curios and crafts, and good times.
The St Augustine Amphitheatre (the Amp) hosts a farmers market 4 that’s all independent vendors, live music and Anastasia Island sea breezes.
Find the read, beach or otherwise, of your dreams at Books & Books, 5 a fantastic independent book retailer.
WONDER & WANDER
You think Florida doesn’t have an intellectual side? Think again. The confluence of immigrants and domestic seekers of a better life has stirred a cultural and cerebral pot that constantly pushes human expression and knowledge. These gifts are showcased in state museums, which are a welcome respite from the more commercialized edges of Florida travel.
Art Museums
Every Florida town worth its salt boasts an art museum; Miami’s are obviously the most famous, but you’ll find gems in Jacksonville and Pensacola.
jpgeqroy/shutterstock ©
Nature & Science Museums
We’ll say it again: this state has a truly unique blend of environments, and there’s a glut of museums that dissect this natural backdrop.
jpgthomas barrat/shutterstock ©
History Museums
From specialist museums on diving to museums covering Florida before European settlement and everything that has followed, Florida’s got you covered.
BEST MUSEUM EXPERIENCES
jpgHead to the Wizard of Oz Museum, 1 a surprising newcomer in Cape Canaveral, home to more than 2000 artifacts from the books and film.
Explore Orlando’s African American history and culture at the Wells’ Built Museum, 2 a hidden gem of a museum housed in the former Wells’ Hotel.
Lose yourself in the light-filled galleries overlooking Biscayne Bay at the Pérez Art Museum 3 in Miami, itself an architectural wonder.
Dig into Palm Beach’s Flagler Museum, 4 testament to one man’s love for his wife, for whom the tycoon built this grandiose mansion.
Gorgeous gardens and a riverfront location underline the thousands of paintings and sculptures housed at Jacksonville’s excellent Cummer Museum of Art. 5
FLORIDA BY FOOT
Florida has some exceptional hiking. The state’s hiking trails can be challenging because of the weather and, in the Everglades, trail conditions when you stray from the boardwalk. South Florida swamps tend to favor 1- to 2-mile boardwalk trails; these are excellent and almost always wheelchair accessible. But they can only take you so far. In the Everglades, you can also embark on ‘wet walks,’ which are wading trips deep into the blackwater heart of the swamps.
Florida National Scenic Trail
The Florida National Scenic Trail runs north from Big Cypress National Preserve, through the Ocala National Forest and then west to the Gulf Islands National Seashore.
jpgleft to right: ewy media/shutterstock ©
Supplies
Mosquitoes are an unavoidable reality. Sunscreen is a must when hiking in Florida, and a good bug repellent (and insect-proof clothes) comes a close second.
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Hydrate
Florida hikers never have to worry about elevation gain, but the weather makes up for it. Hike in the dry season.
jpgMahogany Hammock Trail, Everglades National Park | simon dannhauer/shutterstock ©
BEST HIKING EXPERIENCES
jpgThe Florida National Scenic Trail runs throughout the state, including a memorable knee-deep ‘wet walk’ through the swamps of Big Cypress National Preserve. 1
Explore the National Wild and Scenic Rivers–designated Wekiwa River at Wekiwa Springs State Park, 2 which is far off the tourist radar.
Hobe Mountain Observation Tower at Jonathan Dickinson State Park 3 is the highest point in the state (86ft), and it’s lovely: a sand dune where wonderful views abound.
Stride some boardwalks through classic Everglades scenery at Anhinga Trail; 4 this may be an easy boardwalk ‘hike,’ but it doesn’t lack for alligators.
Lose yourself in true Florida wilderness at the Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge, 5 5445 acres of pristine salt marsh and mangroves.
REGIONS & CITIES
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
ITINERARIES
Iconic South Florida
jpgAllow: 10 days Distance: 205 miles
For sheer South Florida box-ticking, you can’t do better than taking in Miami, the Everglades and the Florida Keys, with three ecosystems to pick from – urban, flooded and archipelagic. To get here, start along the Atlantic Coast and soak in the sunshine that the state is (nick)named for.
jpg1 JUPITER 2 DAYS
The ‘Treasure Coast’ is known for unspoiled nature rather than condos and cosmopolitans. Stop first in Jupiter (pictured); among its pretty parks, don’t miss the seaside geyser at Blowing Rocks Preserve. Catch a nice glimpse of the Loxahatchee River from the top of the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse, or strap on climbing gear and ascend the Highest – Point – In Florida! at Hobe Mountain Observation Tower (86ft).
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2 THE PALM BEACHES 1 DAY
In the quintessentially ritzy Palm Beach, ogle the uberwealthy gliding from mansion to Bentley to beach; stop by the Flagler Museum to understand how this all got started; and each day decamp to West Palm Beach, the hipper, more happening sister city.
3 FORT LAUDERDALE 1 DAY
Preen along the promenade amid skating goddesses and be-thonged gay men; ride a romantic gondola in the canals; enjoy fine art and gourmet cuisine: Fort Lauderdale is a suite of pleasures, which the Gold Coast specializes in. If you want to change it up, try the local museum of art for an excellent cultural escape or rent a bicycle for a breezy canalside pedal.
jpgRiverwalk, Fort Lauderdale | fotoluminate llc/shutterstock©
4 MIAMI 3 DAYS
Spend three solid days exploring Miami and Miami Beach. Florida’s most exciting city offers everything from South Beach’s pastel art deco hotels and hedonistic beach culture to Cuban sandwiches, Jewish delis, Haitian botanicas and modern art. Plus Latin hip-hop and mojitos. And punk shows and graffiti art in a Wynwood warehouse. Or the neon night of the skyline after dark… The list is endless.
5 THE EVERGLADES 1 DAY
Take a day to visit the sunning alligators of Everglades National Park (pictured). En route, Homestead has prime roadside attractions (Coral Castle and Robert Is Here, to name just two). The Everglades’ Flamingo Marina offers opportunities to kayak among the mangroves or spy manatees in the harbor, while the boardwalk at the Royal Palm Visitor Center gets you face-to-face with some gators.
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6 THE KEYS 2 DAYS
Spend two days (or more) in the Florida Keys. Stop first in Key Largo for key lime pie, conch fritters and jaw-dropping coral reefs. Enjoy tarpon fishing in Islamorada and beach napping at Bahia Honda State Park, then – finally – hit Key West to ogle the craziness of Mallory Sq and raise a cocktail as the tangerine sun drops into an endless ocean.
ITINERARIES
Gulf Coast Swing
jpgAllow: 8–9 days Distance: 245 miles
Though less famous than Florida’s eastern seaboard, the Gulf Coast still has its admirers – the beaches aren’t as built up, soporifically warm waters lap at white sand and the sun sets over the sea. Plus it’s easy to mix urban sophistication with swampy adventures.
jpg1 TAMPA & ST PETERSBURG 2 DAYS
Spend your first day in Tampa, the major urban nexus of the state’s central Gulf Coast. Stroll the museums and parks along Tampa’s sparkling Riverwalk, and spend some time enjoying Ybor City’s Spanish cuisine, cigars and nightclubs. After that, more laid-back St Pete (pictured) offers similar urban fun, but don’t miss its Salvador Dalí Museum and craft brews.
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2 BARRIER ISLANDS 1 DAY
Head west for the barrier islands, which lap up against the Gulf of Mexico. Florida’s western shore is popular with families, plus tourists arriving from sometimes unexpected climes, like Atlantic Canada. Spend one day on unspoiled Honeymoon and Caladesi Islands, or enjoy the hyper atmosphere of St Pete Beach.
3 SARASOTA 2 DAYS
Next, drive to Sarasota. You’ve got lots of options here, so give yourself two days to explore: the magnificent Ringling Museum Complex, the orchid-rich Marie Selby Botanical Gardens, or catch some theater. If you’re not beached out, relax on the white-sand beaches of Siesta Key. The outdoors-minded can kayak through the mangroves of the Jim Neville Marine Preserve and look for manatees.
jpgSiesta Key | suncoast aerials/shutterstock ©
4 FORT MYERS 1 DAY
Skip down to Fort Myers for some more regional exploring. This is still the Gulf Coast, but the attitude here is a little different: less ritzy than Sarasota, less in-your-face than Tampa (well, depending on the time of year). Take a stroll through its historic downtown River District to browse for art and gifts, then visit Thomas Edison’s former Florida home and science lab.
5 SANIBEL ISLAND 1 DAY
Save some time for Sanibel Island. World-famous for its shelling, it’s also a bike-friendly island with great eats and wildlife-filled bays ripe for kayaking. There’s a more nature-friendly approach to travel here, best exemplified by a slow drive through the lush jungles of the JN ‘Ding’ Darling National Wildlife Refuge – itself something of a birder’s paradise.
6 NAPLES 1 DAY
End your trip in Naples (pictured), the quintessential Gulf Coast beach town: upscale, artistic and welcoming to all ages, with perhaps Florida’s most pristine city beach and one of the state’s finest botanical gardens.
Detour: It’s easy to fit in a day trip to the Everglades. Zip along the Tamiami Trail to Shark Valley, and take a tram tour or bike ride among the sawgrass plains and alligators. 6 hours
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ITINERARIES
Theme Park Parade
jpgAllow: 8–9 days Distance: 140 miles
The kids want Disney, but their parents want beach time, a good meal and some culture. Oh, and you’ve only got a week. All good! Florida is a big state, and the attractions around its theme parks complement the world of fantasy with some worthwhile travel amenities.
jpgjpgVolcano Bay, Universal Orlando Resort | universal orlando resort ©
1 DISNEY WORLD 2 DAYS
The mouse abides, people. Budget at least two days (if not more!) to get the most out of Walt Disney World® (pictured). There are so many attractions it’s hard to pick just a few, but pick we shall: don’t miss Avatar Flight of Passage or Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance. And for you nostalgia buffs: it’s a small world.
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2 ORLANDO 1 DAY
Adult time now! Hit up Orlando. There is, in fact, far more to this city than theme parks. Have a stroll through the tropical greenery of the Harry P Leu Gardens (pictured). Browse the galleries of the Orlando Museum of Art or hit up Wekiwa Springs State Park, about 40 minutes from downtown – its clear waters are the real magic kingdom.
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3 UNIVERSAL ORLANDO RESORT 2 DAYS
Head to the place that bridges childhood with being a grownup in a span of pure theme-park goodness: Universal Studios. You want a wand? Of course you do. Head down Diagon Alley and lose yourself in The Wizarding World of Harry Potter (pictured). Then trip out on the uncanny-valley allure of the Simpsons ride. Go on, be a (big) kid.
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4 GREATER ORLANDO 1 DAY
Head back to Orlando and visit another one of those sites that does it for kids and their adults: WonderWorks, a cross between a science fair and an amusement park. Now drive south to Bok Tower Gardens Bird Sanctuary (pictured), where the natural beauty of central Florida is set off by gorgeous gardens, classical music concerts and a 205ft stone bell tower.
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5 BUSCH GARDENS TAMPA BAY 1 DAY
We heard you like theme parks, so we put some theme parks on your theme parks. In this case: Busch Gardens (pictured), which blends some very fine roller coasters with an affected, Floridian take on an African safari experience. Feel your stomach pleasantly leap into your skull on the impossibly steep Iron Gwazi.
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6 ST PETERSBURG 1 DAY
Can great art connect parents with their children in the same way a roller coaster can? Head to St Petersburg’s Salvador Dalí Museum (pictured) to find out. There are more museums to explore out here, and the restaurant scene is top-notch.
Detour: You can also squeeze in a day trip north for the mermaid shows at Weeki Wachee and the manatees of Homosassa Springs. Everybody’s happy! 4–5 hours
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ITINERARIES
Northern Backroads
jpgAllow: 8 days Distance: 225 miles
North Florida appeals to outdoors lovers who prefer their days filled with forests, springs, rivers and fishing…and their evenings spent reliving the adventures around the campfire. With all of that said, there are also some cool towns and nightlife beckoning you past the backroads.
jpg1 JACKSONVILLE 2 DAYS
You’re starting in Jacksonville, where you can spend the first day embracing the Atlantic Ocean on myriad beaches. For a full dose of Florida’s Southern personality (ironically more on display here than in the southern part of the state), have dinner at Southern Charm, then sink a few beers in the Little Five Points neighborhood. The local Cummer Museum of Art is a stunner.
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2 ST AUGUSTINE 1 DAY
Head from Jacksonville (founded 1822) to St Augustine – founded in 1565, it’s the oldest city in the USA (and still popular as all get-out). Stroll down St George St (pictured), the main drag of the town’s historical district, gawk at the Cathedral Basilica of St Augustine, then lounge in the Plaza de la Constitución.
3 ANASTASIA ISLAND 1 DAY
Just across from St Augustine is lovely Anastasia Island, where visitors will find some 1600 acres of buttery dunes and Atlantic coastline that will grab your heart in its salty fingers and never let go. There’s lots to do: sail, hit a playground with the kids or swim (be careful of the tides), but there’s something to be said for getting here and doing absolutely nothing.
jpgAnastasia Island | mathew cowger/shutterstock ©
4 MATANZAS RIVER 1 DAY
As (over)developed as the Floridian coast can feel, there are swathes of the old, soft beauty of North Florida waiting by the highway. The River to Sea Preserve, which encompasses some 90 acres fed by the Matanzas River, is one such spot. Kayak or stand-up paddleboard through the calm waters, pushing through marine hammock woodlands while keeping an eye out for birds and dancing fish.
5 DAYTONA BEACH 1 DAY
Daytona Beach is what happens when you marry the North Florida coast with a Nascar rally and sprinkle in a boardwalk laced with neon. It’s an in-your-face kinda destination, where you can catch a race at the Daytona Speedway (pictured), take the kids to the arcades at the Daytona Lagoon or just wander through one of the 15 coastal parks that wind through the area.
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6 AMELIA ISLAND 2 DAYS
Nothing personal, but after all those beaches, arcades and scenic rivers, it’s clean-up time. Drive back past Jacksonville and spend a final day or so on Amelia Island, which straddles the line between country-club vibes and rural Florida island escape. Spoil yourself with a Victorian B&B and some gourmet seafood or hit the outdoors again with a paddle around the barrier islands.
WHEN TO GO
Florida’s beaches, cities and theme parks attract visitors year-round, though the summer months can be intensely hot and humid.
High season in South Florida happens over the winter, from December to March, when frost-bitten northerners flood the beaches of Miami, the Florida Keys and the seaside south of Tampa. Summer (June through August) is high season on the Panhandle, though tourist numbers are lower elsewhere given the torrid temperatures and high humidity. June to November is also hurricane season.
For outdoor adventures in the Everglades, it’s wet and buggy during the warmer months (May to November). You’ll see more wildlife and encounter fewer waterlogged trails from December to March. If you’re keen to see manatees, come between December and March, when the giant herbivores gather in natural springs to escape the colder sea temperatures.
jpgStorm, Jacksonville | javier cruz acosta/shutterstock ©
Accommodations Lowdown
You can save money on lodging by visiting during the months of February and late August through November. Prices are especially elevated during the winter holiday season, running from mid-December through mid-January.
I LIVE HERE
spring in the Everglades
Founder of Garl’s Coastal Kayaking in the Everglades, Garl Harrold is a trusted guide for top media companies, including National Geographic.
I came down to southern Florida from Michigan many years ago, fell in love with the place and never left. It’s amazing to visit the Everglades in the springtime, especially in April or May. That’s when the water level is at its lowest, and you can spot so much wildlife in the cypress domes and freshwater ponds.
RAINY DAYS
One of America’s rainiest states, Florida receives around 54in of rainfall each year. Showers are a year-round possibility, although Florida receives its biggest share of precipitation in the warmer months, from May to October.
OCEAN VS GULF
Florida’s Gulf side has warmer water temperatures in the summer and cooler temperatures in the winter than its Atlantic side. Swimming off Marco Island in February means entering chilly 69°F (21°C) waters compared to Miami with its more tolerable 76°F (24°C) water temperatures.
Big Festivals & Events
Over a century old, the Florida State Fair in Tampa is classic Americana: two weeks of livestock shows, greasy food, amped-up music and old-fashioned carnival rides. February
The Okeechobee Music & Arts Festival held in Sunshine Grove sees more than 100 performers playing at six different stages. The four-day event also has art installations, yoga classes, food vendors, a lakeside beach and camping. March
During Mickey’s Not-So-Scary Halloween Party, Disney World ups the excitement with spooky entertainment, trick-or-treating and special fireworks displays. It happens on select evenings over three months. August to October
One of the biggest contemporary-art shows in North America, Art Basel showcases unique works from over 280 art galleries, representing some 40 different countries. December
Local & Quirky Festivals
Over two weekends, Fort Myers celebrates inventor Thomas Edison with a block party, concerts, crafts, a science fair and whimsical competitions like ‘break the bed’ races. The highlight is a creative nighttime parade. February
On Perdido Key locals are famous for tossing dead fish over the Florida–Alabama state line during the Interstate Mullet Toss. Distance beats style, but some have lots of style. April
Key West hosts Fantasy Fest, a 10-day costumed extravaganza. Pool parties and a parade feature scantily clad (body painted) revelers. The more family-friendly, Bahamian-style Goombay Festival happens the first weekend. October
The 1891 Tampa Bay Hotel (now a museum) celebrates the holiday season with the Victorian Christmas Stroll. See themed displays, hear holiday music and enjoy winter snacks. December
I LIVE HERE
summer escapes
Terry Ward is a Tampa-based travel writer @TerryWardWriter.
Once the summer heat is firmly upon us, central Florida’s incredible springs beckon me inland from the coast. The captivatingly turquoise waters stay a consistent 72°F (22°C) year-round. Spots like Ichetucknee Springs State Park are epic for tubing with friends. Ginnie Springs begs you to paddle a kayak between dips. And I love Rainbow Springs State Park for snorkeling through what I can only describe as a mermaid’s dreamscape.
jpgGinnie Springs near Jacksonville | nev pires/shutterstock ©
SUNSHINE
Don’t tell anyone, but Florida just barely scrapes into the top-10 list of America’s sunniest states. Nevertheless, the Sunshine State averages over 230 days of clear skies each year. Fort Myers tops the charts with around 270 days of annual sunshine.
Weather through the year
jpgJANUARY
Avg. daytime max: 70°F
Days of rainfall: 7
jpgFEBRUARY
Avg. daytime max: 71°F
Days of rainfall: 7
jpgMARCH
Avg. daytime max: 74°F
Days of rainfall: 8
jpgAPRIL
Avg. daytime max: 79°F
Days of rainfall: 7
jpgMAY
Avg. daytime max: 84°F
Days of rainfall: 9
jpgJUNE
Avg. daytime max: 88°F
Days of rainfall: 15
jpgJULY
Avg. daytime max: 90°F
Days of rainfall: 18
jpgAUGUST
Avg. daytime max: 89°F
Days of rainfall: 18
jpgSEPTEMBER
Avg. daytime max: 87°F
Days of rainfall: 16
jpgOCTOBER
Avg. daytime max: 83°F
Days of rainfall: 9
jpgNOVEMBER
Avg. daytime max: 77°F
Days of rainfall: 6
jpgDECEMBER
Avg. daytime max: 73°F
Days of rainfall: 7
GET PREPARED FOR FLORIDA
Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.
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Manners
Most Floridians are quite cordial and will happily share insights into their local attractions, restaurants and drinking spots.
Locals tend to avoid topics like politics and instead talk sport. With nearly a dozen pro teams, plus college powerhouses, there’s always something afoot.
In small towns and less-busy areas (such as state-park trails), it’s common to say hello to people you see.
Clothes
Hot-weather fabrics: Even in winter, daytime highs can reach the low 80s. You’ll want to bring lightweight, breathable fabrics to stay cool and feel less sweaty.
Layers: In the evenings things can cool off, and even in the summer, it’s wise to pack a light jacket for breezy walks by the ocean.
Rain gear: Precipitation is a year-round possibility, although the biggest storms happen during the summer. Bring a lightweight rain jacket or an umbrella.
Hats: A wide-brimmed hat is wise, whether it be for hiking or a classier Panama-style hat for dressier attire. Baseball hats are also popular,