Lonely Planet Pocket Lisbon

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Lisbon

Lisbon’s Top Experiences

Dining Out

Bar Open

Treasure Hunt

Under the Radar Lisbon

Museums & Galleries

Stunning Views

Outdoors

For Kids

Tours

LGBTIQ+

Responsible Travel

Four Perfect Days

Need to Know

Explore Lisbon

Bairro Alto & Chiado

Baixa & Rossio

Mouraria, Alfama & Graça

Belém

Parque das Nações

Marquês de Pombal, Rato & Saldanha

Estrela, Lapa & Alcântara

Worth a Trip

Explore Sintra’s Grand Palaces & Mystical Gardens

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Lisbon

Getting Around

Essential Information

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Lisbon

A roller-coaster city of seven hills, crowned by a medieval-style castle and washed in an artist’s pure light, Lisbon is cinematically beautiful and historically compelling. This is a capital city of big skies and bigger vistas; of clattering trams and Willy Wonka–like elevators; of melancholic fado songs and live-to-party nightlife. Edge, charisma and postcard good looks – Lisbon has the lot.

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Lisbon’s

Top Experiences

Admire Unesco-listed Manueline masterpiece, Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Journey through Lisbon’s old neighbour-hoods aboard Tram 28

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Lisbon Top Experiences

See Lisbon from hilltop Castelo de São Jorge

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Virtually dive into Lisbon’s top aquarium, the Oceanário

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Stroll through riverside Praça do Comércio

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Check out Lisbon’s largest art collection at Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Visit Convento do Carmo, a roofless pre-earthquake convent

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Visit Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Lisbon’s oldest art museum

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Lisbon Top Experiences

See a private contemporary-art collection at Museu Coleção Berardo

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Learn about azulejos (hand-painted tiles) at Museu Nacional do Azulejo

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Lisbon Top Experiences

Uncover Lisbon’s 2500-year-old history at Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros

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Dining Out

While classics like bacalhau (dried salt-cod) and pastéis de nata (custard tarts) never go out of fashion, the Portuguese capital has raised the bar, with creative chefs looking towards Brazil, France, India and the Med for inspiration. Restaurants have popped up in the most unlikely places, from convents to former fish-tackle stores.

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Tasca Charm

Crowded tables, an inviting buzz and trusted menus with robust Portuguese dishes like açorda (bread and shellfish stew) define tascas, Lisbon’s family-run, cheap-as-chips eateries. Find an equally local scene and great value specials at churrasqueiras (grill houses).

Fine Dining

Simplicity, pristine ingredients and creativity mark Lisbon’s gourmet scene. Contemporary chefs have put the Portuguese capital on the gastro map with ingredient-focused tasting menus, often putting a spin on comfort foods like slow-cooked suckling pig and bacalhau.

Pastelarias & Cafes

Sweet tooth? One visit to Lisbon’s pastelarias (pastry shops) and you’ll be hooked, we swear. Perhaps by the pastéis de nata (caramelised custard tarts that crumble just so; pictured); perhaps by the sumptuous gilt and stucco surrounds of old-world cafes; perhaps by the new-generation bakeries doing a brisk trade in French patisserie.

Best Gourmet

Alma Michelin-starred Henrique Sá Pessoa’s flagship Portuguese kitchen.

Bairro do Avillez Celebrated chef José Avillez’ culinary ‘neighbourhood’ is one-stop satisfaction for foodies.

Best Tascas & Tabernas

Tasca Zé dos Cornos A family-run favourite in Mouraria serving delectable Portuguese classics.

Ti-Natércia Moody Alfama gem featuring ‘Aunt’ Natércia’s home-cooked recipes.

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Best for Romance

Flor da Laranja Cosy and romantic Moroccan in Bairro Alto.

Vicente by Carnalentejana Atmospheric space serving delicacies from the Alentejo.

Best Bistros

Santa Clara dos Cogumelos A slice of vintage cool in a former market hall, with a mushroom-focused menu.

Clube de Jornalistas Pared-down elegance in an 18th-century house opening onto a tree-shaded courtyard.

Best Tapas & Small Plates

Pharmacia Appetising tapas and pharmaceutical fun in Lisbon’s apothecary museum.

Os Tibetanos Lisbon’s oldest vegetarian restaurant at a Tibetan Buddhism school.

Best Old-School Pastelarias

Versailles Rather grand 1930s patisserie frequented for cream cakes and gossip. (pictured)

Confeitaria Nacional A legendary spot in the heart of the Baixa.

Top Tips

Couvert, the bread, olives and other goodies automatically brought to the table as appetisers, costs. You pay for what you eat, but it’s fine to send it away if you don’t want it.

Bar Open

As one local put it, Lisbon is Europe’s Havana, with its decadence, brightly coloured buildings and party-loving vibe. And whether you’re toasting new friendships in Bairro Alto’s narrow lanes, rocking to gigs in Cais do Sodré or sipping ginjinha (cherry liqueur) around Rossio at dusk, you can’t help but be swept along by the festive spirit.

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Nightlife Districts

Take the lead of locals and begin an evening in front of a cubby-hole ginjinha bar around Rossio. In the mood for fado? Gravitate towards the medina-like Alfama for the real deal in softly lit, family-run clubs. Bairro Alto is one big street party and bar-hopping after midnight is the way to go. Similarly open-minded, bohemian and oblivious to sleep is sleazy-turned-trendy Cais do Sodré, with a growing crop of bordello-chic bars and all-night clubs. For a more low-key, gay-friendly vibe in cocktail bars and en-vogue cafes, swing north to Príncipe Real. Edging west of the centre, industrial-cool bars and clubs draw crowds to the riverside in Alcântara.

Best Cocktails

Pavilhão Chinês Lovely elixirs served up in a wacky wonderland setting.

Foxtrot Unapologetically art-nouveau bar chock-full of atmospheric kitsch and no shortage of creative cocktails.

Red Frog Bespoke cocktails and classy ambience in a handsomely designed speakeasy.

Best Wine Bars

ViniPortugal Sample the best of Portuguese wine at this quiet wine bar and shop by Praça do Comércio.

Ressaca Tropical Local and international natural wines, plus traditional drinks.

Best Rooftops

Park Lisbon’s trendiest rooftop bar.

Memmo Alfama Stupendous views are offered at this boutique hotel bar.

TOPO Martim Moniz An artsy-leaning lounge with ridiculous castle views.

Sky Bar Drink in a panorama of Lisbon from this upscale rooftop along Avenida da Liberdade. (pictured)

Best Craft Beers

Quimera Brewpub One-of-a-kind beers, including offerings from local brewers.

Duque Brewpub Featuring 12 taps of Portuguese-only cerveja artesanal (craft beer) on an atmospheric Chiado staircase.

Outro Lado Easy-going Alfama choice leaning on Portuguese and Belgian brews.

Crafty Corner Laid-back Alfama bar with occasional live music, light meals, and 12 taps of Portuguese craft beer.

Best Live Music

Mesa de Frades Magical fado in a tiny former chapel.

A Tasca do Chico A fado favourite in Bairro Alto, with the occasional drop-in taxi driver humming a few bars.

Damas Graça’s eclectic alternative concert hall.

Zé dos Bois Live music and experimental performing arts venue.

Senhor Fado An intimate and atmospheric fado spot in the heart of the Alfama.

Best Clubs

Lux-Frágil One of Europe’s best megaclubs; a gay-friendly temple of dance alongside the Rio Tejo.

Discoteca Jamaica Welcoming hotspot for boogying to some reggae.

Treasure Hunt

Grid-like Bairro Alto attracts vinyl lovers and vintage devotees to its cluster of late-opening boutiques. Elegant Chiado is the go-to place for high-street and couture shopping, to the backbeat of buskers. Alfama, Baixa and Rossio have frozen-in-time stores dealing exclusively in buttons and gloves, tawny port and tinned fish.

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Gift Ideas

While there’s plenty of tourist tat to be found (particularly in Baixa), Portugal does offer unique wares worth seeking out, such as cork products, azulejos (tiles) and quality Portuguese wines. Other things to look out for include bath products from Claus Porto, wool clothing from Loja do Burel, and beautifully wrapped tinned fish from Conserveira de Lisboa.

Cork

Portugal is famous for its cork (pictured), which is sustainably produced and put to myriad uses. You’ll find cork wallets, handbags, sandals, notebooks, smartphone covers and even umbrellas.

Azulejos

Those exquisite ceramic tiles that adorn so many buildings around Lisbon (inside and out) make fine souvenirs. The best are hand-painted with unique designs you won’t find elsewhere.

Wine

You can pick up some great wines in Portugal, often sold at a fraction of the price you’d pay in your home country. Look for reds from the Alentejo, the Douro and the Dão;