Haunted Dundee

Acknowledgements

LIBRARIANS are authors’ guardian angels, and I would like to express my profound thanks to the staff of the local studies sections of the A.K. Bell Library in Perth and the Wellgate Library in Dundee, and further thanks for permission to reproduce various historic images. For assistance, co-operation and for answering my pesky questions, my gratitude goes out to: Lisa Douglas, Debbie Rooney, Kevin Connolly and Mary Archibald at Verdant Works; Dundee Heritage Trust; South Georgia Heritage Trust; Bob Hovell, Ship Manager, HMS Unicorn; playwright Kevin Dyer and theatre director Michael Judge; tour guide Anthony Cox (www.taysidehistoricaltours.com); Murdo Wilson at Claypotts Castle; and Marek at Dundee Backpackers Hostel.

I am especially grateful to all those who shared their personal stories with me, including: June Kelso; Colin McLeod; Sarah Fraser (with extra gratitude for granting permission to reproduce her sketch); and Victor and Elena Peterson of Mains Castle. None of their stories have previously been published. The Ghost Club investigation, led by Derek Green, gave me the opportunity to explore RRS Discovery under unusual circumstances. Ségolène Dupuy did wonders on the photographs and Jenni Wilson drew the maps.

This book is a companion to the author’s Paranormal Dundee (2010) and is part of a series of works by Geoff Holder dedicated to the mysterious and paranormal. For more information, or to contribute your own experience, please visit www.geoffholder.com. And say hello to webmaster Jamie Cook while you’re there.

To Shade and Slick – companions both. Now go and lie down and let me work!

Contents

Places to Visit

Introduction

one The White Ladies

two Contemporary Encounters with the Supernatural

three Malevolent Entities

four The Den o’Mains

five Spooky Ships – Discovery and the Frigate Unicorn

six Fakes, Frauds & Folklore – and Spring-Heeled Jack!

seven ‘Traditional’ Ghosts

eight Historic Hauntings

Bibliography

Places to Visit

The following locations are open to visitors:

Claypotts Castle/Castle Gardens: Claypotts Road, DD5 3JY. View exterior only. To visit interior, call 01786 431324 in advance. Admission free. No internal wheelchair access.

Discovery Point Visitor Centre: Discovery Quay, DD1 4XA. Tel: 01382 309060. www.rrsdiscovery.com. Open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Sun 11 a.m.) from April to October; 10 a.m.–5 p.m. rest of year (Sunday 11 a.m.). Admission charge. Wheelchair access throughout museum and to main deck of the historic ship only.

Dundee Backpackers: 71 High Street, DD1 1SD. Tel: 01382 224 646. Public access (including wheelchair access) to display area in inner courtyard only. Admission free.

The Frigate Unicorn, Victoria Dock: DD1 3BP. Tel: 01382 200900. www.frigateunicorn.org/. Open 10 a.m.–5 p.m. all week from April to October; November to March: 12 p.m.–4 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, and 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission charge. Wheelchair access to Gun Deck only.

Verdant Works: West Henderson’s Wynd, DD1 5BT. Tel: 01382 309060. www.rrsdiscovery.com. Open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Sun 11 a.m.) from April to October; 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday rest of year (Sunday 11 a.m.). Admission charge. Wheelchair access throughout museum (note courtyard is cobbled).

Mains Castle welcomes enquiries for weddings and corporate events: www.mainscastle.com. The castle is not open to the general public.

Many of the other locations mentioned in this book are private; please respect the privacy of the residents.

Introduction

ON my shelves are two classics from an earlier generation of ghost books: The Ghost Hunter’s Road Book by John Harries, which came out in 1968 and has more than 400 entries across Britain, and Haunted Britain by Anthony D. Hippisley Coxe, published in 1973 with over 1,000 entries covering England, Wales, Scotland and the Isle of Man.

Dundee is not mentioned in either of them.

Neither does Dundee feature in more modern supernatural surveys, such as The Ghost Tour of Great Britain: Scotland by Richard Felix (2006), Roddy Martine’s Supernatural Scotland (2003) and Haunted Scotland (2010), the huge Readers’ Digest work The Most Amazing Haunted & Mysterious Places in Britain (2009), and Derek Acorah’s Haunted Britain (2006). As far as ghost-hunters are concerned, it appears that Dundee is not even on the map.

But, as the man said, it ain’t necessarily so, and Dundee has been unjustly ignored. In this book you hold in your hand, this oversight will be corrected. We are about to explore several centuries of Dundonian hauntings. Here you’ll find stories of poltergeists, malevolent entities, apparitions, strange sounds, doppelgängers, visionary experiences and much more. The incidents range from 1706 to the present day. There is also, you should be warned, a wholesale demolition of some of the city’s best-loved traditional spectres. And you will find a full stock of fakelore and frauds, for the tendency to hoax the supernatural is always with us. In 2011, for example, there was an attempt in the local press to suggest that a particular stone in the old graveyard of the Howff was a memorial to Grissel Jaffray, who was executed for witchcraft in 1669. I covered Grissel’s trial extensively in my previous book Paranormal Dundee, and it is quite evident that the ‘memorial’ episode is not just bad history, but a naked attempt to foist a fake story onto the public. Beware of false paranormalists, my friends.

Other than those stories personally related to me, the episodes in Haunted Dundee were taken from a variety of published sources, such as books, academic journals and websites, all of which are credited in the text. The bibliography allows anyone interested to go to the original sources and see if they agree with my interpretation. Many of the older stories in this book have not seen the light of day for well over a century, and most were found in old newspapers. Dundee’s two principal papers have a confusing history. The Dundee Weekly Advertiser which launched in 1801, later beame the Dundee, Perth & Cupar Advertiser and finally the plain Dundee Advertiser from 1861. The Dundee Courier commenced publication in 1817 and, at various times in its history, was known as the Constitutional Dundee Courier, the Dundee Courier & Daily Argus, the Dundee Courier & Argus, and the Dundee Courier & Argus and Northern Warder. In 1926 both papers merged to form the Courier & Advertiser. To keep matters simple I have used the single names Advertiser and Courier for the older editions, and the title Courier & Advertiser for all stories after 1926.

A postcard of a typical Dundee scene from 1905. (Author’s collection)

Dundee High Street in 1906. Many of the buildings shown have since vanished. (Author’s collection)

Up until the seventeenth century, Dundee was Scotland’s second city after Edinburgh, a dynamic and prosperous seaport with trading links across northern Europe. In the late 1700s, the economic focus turned to industry, primarily textile production. Soon dozens of mills were processing flax brought from the Baltic. The population doubled, then doubled again, then rose exponentially as people flocked in from the countryside. From the 1850s, the dominant industry was jute production, a coarse but versatile fibre imported from India. Dundee became a city almost exclusively devoted to textile manufacturing. Jute spinning and weaving employed 40,000 workers across 125 mills, while linen production continued to employ thousands more. A forest of 200 tall chimneys greeted visitors, with a dense ring of industry encircling the city centre and docks. In a (successful) effort to keep wages down, exploitative employers favoured women and children as mill workers. Working-class housing and living conditions were appalling, and Dundee became something of a classic Victorian sinkhole. In the twentieth century, jute went into terminal decline, and in the post-war years the city has struggled with the effects of post-industrial collapse and urban decay.

Despite all this, the medieval and Renaissance hodgepodge of the city centre remained largely intact until 1871, and, if circumstances had been different, Dundee would have been an architectural gem today, on a par with Edinburgh’s Old Town. But a combination of political infighting, financial problems and disastrous planning decisions has swept away the vast majority of Dundee’s historic buildings. As will be clear from the cases studied here, this has had a profound impact on what might be termed the city’s haunted heritage.

Welcome to Haunted Dundee. It’s back on the map.

We folks wha occupy these coasts

And pride oursel’s on our discernin’,

Are no gien to belief in ghosts

They tally not wi’ our book-learnin’;

Wraiths, warlocks, bogles, how we jeer them

And yet, in truth, the maist o’s fear them!

‘The White Lady of Claypotts Castle’ – Joseph Lee

one

The White Ladies

BRITISH ‘ghost-lore’ is dominated by certain kinds of female apparitions. There are endless Green Ladies and Grey Ladies, with slightly fewer Pink Ladies – all named for the period costume they are usually seen wearing. White Ladies are also populous, and Dundee has at least four examples.

The White Lady O’ Balgay Bridge

Q: Do you feel safe in your area?

A: I do feel quite safe in my area. Your [sic] fine as long as you avoid the cemetery at nights so you a) don’t get scared by the mysterious souls that skulk around the graves and b) don’t get eaten alive by the ghost that patrols the white lady bridge.

This was one of the responses to the ‘You & Your Area’ survey conducted by Young Scot Dundee from September to December 2006, and held online at www.youngscot.org/dundee and www.dundeecity.gov.uk.

Over 500 eleven to fifteen year olds took part. Most responded to the question regarding safety by mentioning concerns over gangs, junkies, drunks, graffiti and other urban problems. This particular pupil, however, concentrated specifically on the terrors of the White Lady of Balgay Bridge.

Balgay Bridge is the cast-iron Victorian footway that stretches high over the ravine of the Windy Glack, connecting the recreational woodlands of Balgay Hill to the east with the tree-lined footpaths of Balgay Cemetery further west. Widely known among the residents of the Lochee area, and a favourite childhood spook, the White Lady features in a number of different stories:

She is seen reading a letter then bursting into tears before disappearing – or jumping off the bridge.

She runs from the bridge into the cemetery, weeping.

She can be summoned at midnight by walking across the bridge three (or five, or seven) times.

She can turn those who unwittingly summon her into a pool of blood.

She can eat people alive (see above).

She can push unsuspecting bystanders off the bridge.

She is heard screaming at midnight as she plunges to her death.

She is rarely seen, but her crying and footsteps are often heard, and dogs grow nervous at her invisible presence.

Balgay Park in 1907. Note Balgay Bridge in the background. (Author’s collection)

Balgay Bridge today, taken from the Windy Glack. (The Author)

Wonderfully evocative stuff, I’m sure you’ll agree, combining traditional elements of the ghost story with