Growing Up in Sussex: From Schoolboy to Soldier

1

A Boy’s Eye View

Remembering the brutal fact of my falling into the pond when I was playing with a toy boat, gave me the starting point for this memoir. It was my first experience of anything really unpleasant existing outside the warm protected life I had experienced up to that moment. The water was cold as winter and as black: I sank and thought I’d sink forever – and you don’t forget moments like that. Rescued by Father, probably startled from his newspaper, I was handed dripping and yelling over the fence to be sorted out by Mother who wouldn’t have been very amused. A second baptism perhaps, just to make sure.

So that was a start. Another early milestone was when my parents built a house – but this was mainly because Mr Banks, the foreman, wore a bowler hat, which makes the memory stick. That was sometime in 1930 when I was rising five, and Mr Banks, the bowler, appeared massive both in stature and importance, not only to me I suspect, because he was both hirer and firer in days when jobs were very few and far between. One memorable morning, resplendent in suit and shiny boots as well as his bowler, he handed me a trowel loaded with cement and together we rather messily laid the first brick. From that small beginning my parents acquired a four-bedroomed house with oak fitments and parquet floors, garden, garage and gravel drive for £1,800. Those were times before Monopoly money.

For me it was to be a wonderful place in which to grow up, with railway line and woods behind, cliffs and the sea a spit away in front. Before the Southern Railway system was electrified, steam engines ruled: fiery as dragons they sparked and roared on their way to and from Eastbourne and Hastings, their furnace breath firing up the embankments behind us, to burn in crackling fury with orange flame and the scented smoke of dry-astinder grass. Later, the primroses appeared as they always did, bright islands in a sea of fire-pungent blackness – a first indication to me of the way nature works.

Those were days of extremes. For Father earning about £500 a year in a job with prospects and Mother with a small private income, it was possible to pay for my schooling and run a car, as well as to employ Lucy our maid for £1 a week and her keep, with a half-day off on Thursday and Sunday afternoons. They must have been comfortable days for my parents with a varied social life of parties, cinema and dances, together with an occasional Thomas Cook’s holiday abroad in summer.

Lucy, from a home where bread and scrape ruled, was the central figure for me: unflappable, warm, she functioned as ally, dispenser of gorgeous by-products of cooking sessions, as well as being coverer-up of all but my most awful indiscretions. The conventional side of her work meant she more than helped with the cooking, polished, dusted, and generally kept the house at the new-pin standards required by Mother. Wearing a pinafore in the mornings, she changed into a brown dress with frilly cap and apron in the afternoons, when at 4 p.m. she pushed a loaded trolley into the drawing room for Mother’s tea. That was when, if not at school, I sat in the kitchen with Lucy consuming large quantities of bread and jam, talking non stop with my mouth full and my elbows on the table: it was a blissful escape and we both knew it.

With Lucy, Mother ran the proverbial tight ship as far as the housekeeping was concerned – routine ruled, so you pretty well knew what would be going on at any given time. Routine also applied to our meals, which followed their seemingly immutable sequence, starting with Sunday’s roast with the usual trimmings, thence to variations on that basic theme, leading to Thursday’s Irish stew (the worst) plus of course fish on Friday. So if you’d forgotten which day it was you only had to look at what was on your plate. I was then, and still am, pretty well omnivorous except for Irish stew, rhubarb and prunes. But Thursdays were purgatory, the odorous Irish stew arriving in a deep pot always loaded with pearl barley and bits of varying size, which were either sharp fragments of bone or gelatinously squidgy and unidentifiable; the only obvious ingredient was the pearl barley which I hated – one way and another it was a bit like excavating a swamp, then having to eat it. But I carp – we were the lucky ones eating regularly and well, and I thrived on it.

Living in a very different world from us were the unemployed, of whom there were millions. In those years after the financial crash of 1929, there were few safety nets for the poor or out of work. For this reason England’s roads carried a heavy traffic of tramps journeying from one Spike to the next, men permanently on the move loaded with blankets, clanking with billycans and anything else they possessed. A Spike was a councilrun refuge spaced miles from the next one, and was set up to provide a meal and shelter for one night only – with no return for so many months to keep men on the move. Often they would come to our back door asking for hot water for a brew-up, men still with pride enough to ask for a job to do in exchange for what they received. Lucy would make them a sandwich if Mother wasn’t there, or slip them a biscuit to go with the water if she was. Many of these men were those who had served for years in France in the First World War – survivors in fact, back in the ‘Land fit for heroes’ that had been promised.

As a very small boy still at the hand-holding stage and wearing those tedious winter gaiters that made even Lucy tight-lipped as she battled with the button hook, I remember seeing former soldiers with medals on their frayed jackets and often with their collars turned up on cold days, standing on street corners selling matches and bootlaces from a tray slung from their necks. Sometimes a group of them would be trudging along a street gutter in single file playing whatever instruments they had – sometimes with one of them twanging a Jew’s harp. I was too young to take in the hopelessness of all that, but sights like those have never left me and I drew my conclusions long ago. It was small wonder there were no recruiting difficulties in 1939 when the inevitable happened – at least you were sure of food and shelter even if they might cost you your life.

At that time much was made of each 11 November as seems to be happening again today. At 11 a.m. precisely, the town’s maroon, an explosive firework, used to alert the fire brigade, was fired with a great sonorous boom, and for two minutes the whole country came to a standstill. I was with Mother in town on one occasion – all traffic stopped and we stood stock still on a draughty street corner in what seemed an endless spooky silence. On another occasion we were listening to the service at the Cenotaph on the wireless, when the silence was broken by a woman’s voice calling out: ‘Why this hypocrisy when you’re preparing for another war?’ – it was so urgent and clear that I’ve never forgotten the drama of it, and have always hoped she was treated better than the Suffragettes had been in their day. An irony of those annual proceedings and something else I saw only much later, was that the country seemed to be paying more attention to the last war’s dead than to its survivors.

A more positive aspect of life and an asset for most people, must have been the fact that the price of pretty well everything in those days changed very little over the years. Hard experience tells me you can get used to practically anything as we have to today; the price of something goes up a couple of million per cent and we shrug our shoulders, blame the politicians and pay up. But Father, used to better things, would have thought about writing to his local MP if petrol had gone up by as much as a penny or two on the 1s 3d a gallon, which it was for years, top quality too – and it would have been the same had his cigarettes gone up at all. He smoked Craven A’s in their red packet with its black cat staring out from a white oval – a matter of great importance as far as I was concerned, since they were the source of a brilliant series of very swappable cigarette cards, usually cars and footballers – a currency in themselves at school. Maybe it was just expectation backed by cheap products from an Empire that kept things as they were, a fact of life that was taken for granted without any thought of change.

At a time in my life when every day seemed to come up with something new, I soaked it all up greedily; if the day was a really lucky one when we were in town, the fire maroon would go off and we might see the astounding spectacle of the fire engine in full cry to its fire. Fire engines then were magnificent machines with enormous extending ladders and polished brass just about everywhere, and the crew wearing big brass helmets, clinging on to whatever they could find – with one of them ding-dinging a big brass bell as the great red monster roared past. ‘It’s not hard to see what they do all the time when they’re not at fires’, Mother would remark.

There were less dramatic things to look at too; when it got dark early on winter afternoons, the lamplighters in Bexhill were busy. There was electricity then but time switches had still to be invented, so the lamplighter with his long pole could often be seen going along the streets switching on each light as he came to it; sometimes he would be on a bicycle with a pole precariously perched on his shoulder, but he’d be so expert at the job that he’d stay on his bike, maybe wobbling a bit but never failing to get to the switch at his first attempt.

And then if I were particularly lucky, the rag-and-bone man – first heard from a distance, would come round the corner belting-out his ‘rag’n bones, rag’n bones’ – a two-note bellow echoing up and down the street. He always sat swinging his legs from the side of a flat cart with wooden wheels, pulled by a cadaverous horse. Remember Steptoe on his rounds and you’ve got the picture, though as I recall the programme, his horse was prosperous by comparison and his posh cart had rubber tyres. What do you do with a cartload of rags and bones I wondered – I think the bones were for making the horrible smelly glues of the time, but I never found out what happened to the rags, though they must have had a future somewhere.

In the early 1930s milk used not to come in bottles unless you lived out of town; in Bexhill it came round in churns on a little hand cart pushed by the milkman. I suppose he would have had his call too, something like ‘milko’ probably, though I never heard him – but I often saw the milk being ladled out: he’d dip from the churn then pour from a great height with practised aim, making the milk froth into each of his customers’ cans; the ladles were of different capacities and he carried them swinging and dripping from the push handle of his cart. I’m pretty sure everybody got a lot more than just plain milk in their jugs: for a start there were few, if any, tuberculin tested herds then – and there would have been plenty of happily lurking bacteria and heaven knows what else, especially on a hot day.

When I was about six, a couple of unpleasant things happened to me; after a bout of tonsillitis with the usual high temperatures, I sprouted a squint – I just woke up with it one morning. In the end it was corrected surgically but it was something that involved having to wear glasses, which is a bind when you’re young – especially at school when they’re always getting broken. The plus side of this affliction meant occasional trips to London to see Mr Hudson, an ophthalmic surgeon. Apart from the excitement of travelling by steam train from what was then Bexhill’s north station to Charing Cross, smelling the soot and watching telegraph poles flying rhythmically up and down past the carriage window, was Mr Hudson himself, small and seeming incredibly old, who had a fascinating clockwork singing bird in a cage on his desk. After, always after, he had finished shining lights in my eyes, he would take me on his knee and wind up the little green bird on its perch to set it singing and flapping its wings. I was always mesmerised, and on a good day he would wind it up again to repeat the performance. It was a dark and fusty smelling consulting room with heavy curtains, but that little mechanical bird really lit up the stuffy place. I recall that his fee for those consultations was five guineas and that seemed a real bargain – at least to me.

Other attractions of those trips to London very often involved going to the zoo or the waxworks at Madam Tussaud’s and afterwards, treat of treats, afternoon tea with sandwiches and gorgeous sticky cakes at the Strand Palace when Father was feeling rich – or a Lyon’s Corner House if he wasn’t. He was a Londoner who knew the place inside and out, and he’d often take us from Mr Hudson’s consulting rooms by way of a maze of byways and snickets, as he called them, emerging into the world of main streets and shops – which included an unforgettable butcher’s shop with men in boaters and stained striped aprons, the place hung with bloody sides of beef that dripped disturbingly into the sawdust on the floor.

London seemed a turbulent, unsettling place of scurrying pedestrians, its streets blue with exhaust fumes from noisy motors honking at ponies and traps doing their best to dodge enormous horse-drawn drays loaded with barrels – driven by men wearing bowler hats and green-baize aprons. Then there were the trams. Those trams were fabulous, great red double-deckers plastered with their vivid ‘Bisto’ and ‘Guiness’ advertisements, rocking and squealing on rails set into the road – rails that Father said would quickly part cyclist from bike if he were careless enough to get his front wheel trapped. The tram driver standing importantly at the front, controlled the swaying beast by twiddling a big brass handle, I believe they were known as dead man’s handles, if you let go the tram stopped, not a bad safety measure if the driver had a problem, given the size of the tram and the congestion of the streets.

On one visit as a special favour, I was allowed to stand beside the driver as we sparked and clattered along the busy streets – suddenly a cyclist leaving things a bit late, crossed close in front of us, pedalling furiously.

‘I eats them bikers for breakfast’ the driver remarked with a sideways look at me, ‘before me bacon and eggs – tasty they are.’ I wasn’t all that sure whether it was the cyclist or the bacon and eggs that were the tasty part – but somehow the next-to-the-driver experience had palled a little for me. He was a large man with a ferocious moustache and a stomach that suggested a lifetime of tasty breakfasts. I wondered what else he might relish with such appetite, thanked him very politely and went back to my parents. I took up this bothersome matter with Father when we got off.

‘That driver said he ate cyclists for breakfast’ I remarked as casually as I could, ‘was he joking?’ Thoughtfully Father sucked at a tooth. ‘You never know, it’s probably a perk of the job – how many cyclists have you see today?’

‘Just that one I think.’

‘Well, there you are’ said Father, not quite meeting my eye, ‘I don’t suppose there are many left – and he was probably lucky to get away with it.’ I half-believed that London trams had drivers who breakfasted on cyclists for nearly as long as I half-believed in Father Christmas – and on later London visits I regarded passing trams with a new respect.

2

Summer Times

The major misfortune that struck round about that time was the assault of a burst appendix followed by peritonitis. I was about six at the time but still remember very clearly how a nagging pain in my stomach increased through the day, until at bedtime it had become a driving agony that had me screaming. Our doctor didn’t take long to diagnose the problem, but by then I was away with the fairies; I vaguely remember being carried by Father to the car and being driven to a nursing home in Bexhill – those being the days before the town had a hospital. On arrival I was prepared for surgery, taken by trolley into a white room with very bright lights – and that was that for a long time until I surfaced into a twilight world of high temperatures and half-comprehended activity. It was a strange dream-drifting period – but one always with a somehow familiar background that I later recognised as being the comfortable voice of the sea, which was only 200yds from my window.

After surgery in those days you were kept in bed for