National Trust School of Gardening

INTRODUCTION

The National Trust employs over 500 gardeners who have an extraordinary wealth of expertise. The places they care for vary enormously, from the sweet cottage gardens that once belonged to Beatrix Potter and Thomas Hardy to the huge terraces of Powis Castle and Cliveden. Collectively these gardens span some 400 years of horticultural history, containing formal parterres, water gardens, rose gardens, glasshouses, walled gardens, orchards, meadows and exquisite flower borders. Some are internationally famous and have become a mecca for gardening enthusiasts, while others remain relatively undiscovered.

While National Trust gardeners are at work, they are frequently asked questions by visitors. Some people are keen to hear the stories of the gardens, but many more want to know the names of the plants and how they are cared for. Clearly, even the grandest gardens have much to teach us about our own. Their lawns, borders and kitchen gardens may be a lot larger than ours, but the maintenance techniques are similar, and they contain wonderful plant combinations to recreate, or interesting varieties to grow at home. Garden visiting can also give us inspiration about what makes a garden sing – be it generous planting, winding paths, a welcoming bench in a sunny corner, or the way colour schemes change through the seasons.

Written for gardeners of all kinds – whether keen novices or experienced enthusiasts – this book shares the wisdom of National Trust experts on everything that’s relevant to domestic gardens. It is intended to give you the inspiration and confidence to make the most of your garden, while not overwhelming you with rigid rules or unnecessary technical detail. It starts with a chapter on garden-making, be that starting from scratch or simply working out which plants and materials are best in an existing one. Next is flower borders – a subject close to most gardeners’ hearts – with detailed advice on how to choose and combine perennials for great effect. Roses, climbers, shrubs and trees, lawns and meadows, topiary and hedges, fruit and vegetables, cut flowers and greenhouse cultivation all have their own chapters, filled with simple, up-to-date advice on plant selection, maintenance, pruning and training.

Hidcote in Gloucestershire, one of the finest gardens in the world, is cared for by the National Trust.

A gardener chats to visitors in the Dutch Garden at Ascott in Buckinghamshire.

Alfriston Clergy House in Sussex, the first property cared for by the National Trust and one of its smallest gardens.

Each chapter begins with a brief introduction to the history and cultural significance of our great British gardening traditions. Did you know that wisteria has been cultivated in Asia for over 2,000 years, or that bedding was fashionable long before herbaceous perennials? This is followed by a case study from a National Trust garden where the chapter topic is demonstrated exceptionally well. The Courts Garden in Wiltshire is the perfect place to show the value of topiary and hedges for giving structure and character to a garden, while at Tintinhull in Somerset the container displays are exemplary. Each case study is accompanied by tips from National Trust Head Gardeners, such as which perennials provide the succession of colour in the borders at Packwood House or which cut flowers are best for drying. Finally, each chapter contains several pages of practical advice to help you make this aspect of gardening, or group of plants, work well for you at home. These include concise step-by-step instructions for growing dahlias, taking cuttings, making a wildlife pond, laying a lawn and much more, alongside clear diagrams. Special care has been taken to make pruning instructions as straightforward as possible, with overarching principles explained to help you to achieve success at home.

A painted lady butterfly on Dahlia merckii.

National Trust gardeners have long known that their gardens provide valuable habitats for wildlife. Now we know that small domestic gardens play an increasingly important role in boosting biodiversity too. To help gardeners embrace their environmental responsibility, this book offers detailed advice on the species found in our gardens and their needs. Sustainable gardening is also about improving soil health and reducing our dependence on resources such as peat and water. Nunnington in Yorkshire provides an inspiring backdrop for advice on such things, with tips about composting, avoiding slug pellets and even making your own plant labels.

Today we are also increasingly aware of the therapeutic benefits gardening brings us: fresh air, exercise, a shared hobby, a connection to the seasons and the natural world, and a constant source of joy and hope. Never have there been more reasons to dedicate time to gardening. Whether you have been growing for years or are just becoming interested; whether you are creating a new garden, maintaining an established one or renovating an old one, this book has a wealth of information to inspire and guide you. Beautifully illustrated with photographs and original drawings, I hope you will find it an enjoyable read as well as an invaluable reference.

‘The most noteworthy thing about gardeners is that they are always optimistic, always enterprising, and never satisfied. They always look forward to doing something better than they have ever done before.’

VITA SACKVILLE-WEST

THE ORIGINS OF GARDENING

Human beings have been making gardens for millennia. Early civilisations enclosed parcels of land for safety, selecting only the most useful wild plants to grow inside. Gradually, the concept of the garden evolved to become a protected space where plants were cultivated for food, medicine and also beauty. Some of the earliest gardens recorded are those of the temples and palaces of Ancient Persia and Egypt. These were highly architectural with walls enclosing them, shady pergolas, ponds and paths. Many aspects of their design influenced the layout of Roman villas and Islamic gardens and are recognisable in European gardens today.

Britain has been home to a wealth of gardening fashions, which can still be seen in historic gardens. For centuries ornamental features which we now take for granted, such as lawns, clipped hedges and exotic plants, were the preserve of grand gardens only. Most people used their small plots more practically – for food, herbs and keeping chickens. The construction of suburban villas and terraced town houses in the 18th century changed that, with small versions of fashionable gardening styles beginning to appear. In the 19th century, gardening became a widely shared hobby for country and city folk of all classes. A wealth of gardening books and magazines provided advice on ‘how to garden’ and horticultural shows across the country gave people the chance to display their gardening prowess.

SPIRIT OF PLACE

The National Trust looks more than 250 gardens, which span several centuries of horticultural history. National Trust gardeners are acutely aware of the layers of history beneath their feet and of the stories these places have to tell. To care for each garden properly, they research its history and identify the enduring qualities that give it character today.

This approach to understanding a garden’s ‘spirit of place’ can be useful when maintaining and developing your own garden, whatever its size or story. By understanding what makes the place special, you will be set on course to shape it sensitively and to choose wisely from a seemingly endless range of plants and materials.

Today in Britain it is estimated that about 80 per cent of households have a garden and 27 million people are interested in gardening. Our gardens vary hugely in their sizes, soil types and surroundings and we use them for many purposes from cultivating flowers and food to eating outdoors, drying laundry, playing games and keeping pets. They can also be important refuges for wildlife. Some people are lucky enough to learn how to garden from their parents or grandparents. For many others, taking on a patch and tending it is the start of a lifelong hobby, one that brings continual learning and great rewards.

The garden at Hill Top in Cumbria retains the look and feel it had when Beatrix Potter lived there.

MONK’S HOUSE, EAST SUSSEX

At the end of a narrow lane stands a small, unassuming, flint-and-weatherboard cottage known as Monk’s House. Stepping up through a simple wooden gate, visitors are met with a surprisingly large and exuberant garden, watched over by the ancient steeple of St Peter’s church.

This sense of retreat into an abundant, spacious garden is what drew Leonard and Virginia Woolf to buy Monk’s House in July 1919. They had admired it before, glimpsing the orchard and garden over a wall when walking in the village. Leonard recorded in his autobiography that ‘the orchard was lovely and the garden was of the kind I like, much subdivided into a kind of patchwork quilt of trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables, fruit, roses and crocus tending to merge into cabbages and currant bushes.’ Virginia wrote of her ‘profound pleasure at the size & shape & fertility & wildness of the garden’ and told friends ‘this is going to be the pride of our hearts; I warn you.’

During their first years at Monk’s House, the Woolfs simply tended what was there, learning to prune the fruit trees they were so pleased to inherit and to grow annual flowers and vegetables. Then, as money and time allowed, they began to develop the garden to suit their own tastes, never forgetting the productive haven that they first fell in love with.

They created garden rooms from the flint walls of derelict buildings and laid simple red-brick paths, echoing the brick floors left by the buildings. Millstones, abandoned in the garden by millers who had once owned Monk’s House, were sunk into the paths, and statues and pots were bought locally. Leonard loved ponds and designed several, the largest of which was inspired by the shallow dew ponds found on the Sussex Downs.

The steeple of St Peter’s Church overlooks the garden.

The entrance to Monk’s House from the lane in Rodmell.

Flint walls and brick paving are a key part of the garden’s character.

Virginia’s writing lodge nestled amongst trees in the orchard.

Above all, Virginia and Leonard valued the timeless, rural feel of the location and so, when the opportunity arose, they bought the neighbouring field to protect their privacy and ward off development. The open, grassy terrace they created on the edge of this field gave them spectacular views across the water meadows and out to the Sussex Downs. Soon after, they built Virginia a new writing lodge, tucked into a corner of the small orchard, with a view across to Mount Caburn.

Soft blue Russian sage is combined with orange crocosmia and brightly coloured zinnias.

Leonard’s conservatory at the back of the building, built to house exotic plants.

LEONARD’S AMBITION

Like all ambitious gardeners, Leonard’s plans were sometimes too grand for the location and Virginia once had to put her foot down about another new greenhouse. After a trip they made to France and Italy, he created an Italian Garden which has quite a different feel to the rest of the space. It may have been this project that caused their great friend Vita Sackvillle-West, who was creating her own magnificent garden at Sissinghurst, to give them the sage advice: ‘You cannot recreate Versailles on a quarter-acre of Sussex.’

Virginia died in 1941, but Leonard continued to garden. During the five decades that he owned Monk’s House he became an exceptionally good horticulturalist, trying new plants and techniques. As his love of exotics grew, he built a conservatory at the back of the house. In the 1950s, he even opened the garden under the National Gardens Scheme, allowing visitors to enjoy this colourful retreat away from the world.

AFTER THE WOOLFS

Leonard died in 1969 and in the following decades his garden fell into disrepair. When the National Trust took on Monk’s House in the 1980s, the garden was tidied and simplified, ready for opening the house to visitors. Soon after, keen horticulturalist Caroline Zoob and her husband became tenants of Monk’s House. Caroline did a great deal of work in the garden, replacing fruit trees and planting up borders. She did not tie herself to a moment in the garden’s history, but was always keen to stay true to Leonard’s style which she saw as ‘cottage gardening … but with more sophisticated plants’. She was inspired by comments from Virginia’s diary, such as ‘our garden is a perfect variegated chintz … all bright, cut from coloured papers, stiff, upstanding as flowers should be’ and ‘never has the garden been so lovely … dazzling one’s eyes with reds and pinks and purples and mauves’. Caroline made contemporary plant choices but tried to mix up the colours as Leonard would have done. One of her most successful colour schemes echoed paintings by Virginia’s sister Vanessa Bell and her daughter Angelica: soft lilac-blues of Russian sage, campanulas and catmints combined with burnt oranges from crocosmias, daylilies, zinnias and tithonias.

The door to Virginia’s bedroom is surrounded by roses and honeysuckle.

Today the garden is maintained by a National Trust gardener who strives to retain the sense of a cherished private garden bursting with colour and personality. Despite it being open to the public, paths remain narrow and uneven with steps smooth and worn from use; climbing plants encircle windows and signage is kept to an absolute minimum.

An elegant bench in a sunny spot at Peckover in Cambridgeshire.

CREATING YOUR GARDEN

Few people begin gardening with a blank canvas. We usually inherit an established garden, often one that has suffered neglect or does not reflect our taste. We may live with it for many years before having the time, inspiration or confidence to make it our own. Or we might shape it to suit our needs but find that, as they change over time and the garden matures, there is room for further improvement.

Whatever your situation, there are a few key factors to consider before making big changes. Firstly, get to know the existing qualities of your garden. Next, establish what else you need from it. Finally, develop a clear sense of the style you want, as this will guide your choices.

The aim is to get the big decisions right first time, even though not every detail need come together at the beginning. All gardens are works in progress, providing endless opportunities for imagination, experimentation and development.

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR GARDEN

Even in an unloved plot, there are likely to be some characteristics worth retaining. This could be a tranquil, sheltered atmosphere; building materials that fit well with the surrounding landscape; or the size and shape of a particular shrub or tree.

To really get to know a garden, you need to spend a full year watching it as it evolves through the seasons. Take regular notes and photographs showing both the features that you like and those that detract from the effect you want.

Some characteristics of the garden are permanent and will need to be worked with while others can be altered as money, time and inspiration allow.

Sun and wind

The aspect of a garden can strongly influence its character, affecting the way light and wind move around the garden and therefore where features – such as patios, benches and borders – should be situated.

South-facing areas of the garden are usually the most prized as they receive the maximum sun whatever time of year it is, enabling the ground to warm up quickly and the widest range of plants to be grown. However, the overhead sun can be very hot, so seating areas or greenhouses may need shade in the height of summer. West-facing areas are warmed by the evening sun in summer, a gift for anyone who wishes to sit outside after a day indoors. In the colder months the sun will be low in the sky, which makes it shine through plants beautifully but can also mean it is lost early, blocked by neighbouring buildings, trees or hills. East-facing spots receive morning sun, which is always very welcome, but in winter the low-angled beams carry little heat and may not appear above nearby structures, keeping the area chilly. North-facing areas present the biggest challenge as they receive little sun, but even these can be made lush and inviting with the right plants.

The amount of wind that passes through your garden is partly to do with aspect but is also affected by the lie of the land and surrounding buildings. On open hillsides you are likely to find that wind is a permanent feature of your garden but, in most sites, sheltered areas can be created by planting shrubs and trees.

Within a garden there can be huge variability in conditions. One area may be sheltered while another is whipped by the wind or one bed may stay frosty on a spring day long after others are bathed in sun. It pays to get to know these idiosyncrasies before making changes.

A simple table and chairs positioned to enjoy spectacular views out of the garden.

This unique gate provides character to the garden at Hill Top in Cumbria.

Soil type

In the UK we have a range of soil types which hold water, heat and nutrients differently. The most extreme of these will greatly affect what we can grow and therefore the overall design of the garden.

One of the most common soils is made up of a lot of clay. This holds moisture and nutrients well but can be hard to work; it is also cold and wet in winter and slow to warm up in spring. At the other end of the spectrum are free-draining soils which don’t easily hold nutrients or water but are easy to dig, never soggy in winter and warm up quickly in spring. These are often naturally sandy, stony or chalky soils but, in urban areas, can be the result of buried building rubble beneath the soil.

Another factor affecting what will grow well in your soil is its pH. Some soils are naturally acidic (with a pH value lower than 7) and ideal for plants like camellias, rhododendrons, heather, blueberries and pieris. Others are very alkaline (with a pH value higher than 7) and suitable for lime-tolerant plants such as ceanothus, lilac and clematis. Fortunately, the vast majority of soils are neutral to slightly alkaline, which a huge range of garden plants enjoy. You can test the pH of your soil with a simple kit, but having a look to see whether your neighbours are growing acid-loving or lime-tolerant plants is usually enough of an indication.

The ratio of sand, silt and clay particles that make up a soil creates its texture. This, along with the soil pH, cannot be permanently altered. The way the soil breaks up or holds water is known as the structure; this can be hugely improved with garden compost, manure and cultivation.

Views from the garden

Views of your immediate surroundings or features in the distance have a big impact on the character of a garden. Neighbouring trees or characterful buildings may be drawn into your garden by leaving openings in your boundary and choosing plants to complement them. Meanwhile, unsightly elements can be screened with the judicious positioning of garden structures, hedges, fences, shrubs and trees.

Hillside gardens with expansive views over rooftops or out to the countryside can be a blessing and a challenge. If the views are attractive, you can position seating to enjoy them and this may shape the layout of the whole garden. You can even frame views of landmarks such as spires or hills by pruning shrubs or trees in your garden or planting new ones. Conversely, if views contain eyesores, trees can be used as screening. You don’t always need to plant a large tree on the boundary to act as a screen. Instead, use something smaller and plant it nearer the seating area or window from which you most often look out, to fill the view.

Gardens without views have their advantages too, providing a sense of seclusion which can be a key part of their character. In open or exposed gardens you may even wish to create small, enclosed areas to provide sanctuary.

Existing materials

Paths, walls, fences and other hard-landscaping materials strongly influence the feel of a garden and are visible year-round, forming a backdrop to the planting. Some of these are likely to be permanent features; others may need to be added or replaced.

Most gardens will incorporate several different materials, such as brick, stone, concrete, wood and paint. Try to identify the ones that work best with the house and surrounding environment, so that you can gradually replace or remove those that jar until you achieve a more limited palette. You may find the oldest materials fit best with the area and are worth retaining, even if they are worn and damaged.

When considering your boundary walls and fences, it’s always wise to talk to your neighbours. There is a common misconception that homeowners of terraced gardens are responsible for the fence on their left but there is actually no legal basis for this. Occasionally your deeds will specify which boundaries you are expected to maintain but usually an agreement needs to be reached.

Mature wisteria and clematis engulf a garden boundary.

Existing plants

Trees, shrubs and hedges offer structure and maturity to a garden which takes a long time to recreate, so do not rush to remove them. Many overgrown shrubs can be pruned hard and brought back into peak condition within a couple of years, whereas removing and replacing them would be hard work, costly and require several years to produce the same effect. (For more advice, see ‘Renovation pruning’, p.131.)

Climbers and wall shrubs that soften boundaries are especially important and worth keeping, even if they have to be cut back to allow maintenance work to walls and fences. Exposed boundaries tend to look stark and make gardens seem smaller.

The plants that are doing well in your garden provide clues as to which are best suited to your site and soil. Even among the perennials there may be much that is worth keeping and perhaps the suggestion of a colour scheme or planting style that could be developed. This is far easier and more cost-effective than starting from scratch.

WHAT DO YOU NEED FROM YOUR GARDEN?

How you want to use your garden will dictate much about its layout and the changes you need to make. The features most people want in the sun are seating areas, a laundry line and at least one flowerbed.

If your garden is big enough for a lawn, herb garden, vegetable patch and greenhouse, these also need plenty of sun. Useful components that can go in the shade include bin and bike storage, a shed, log store and compost heap. Think about what needs to be easily accessible from the house (a dining area) and which can be further away (compost). For families, the lawn may need to be big enough for ball games and you might want play equipment too. These could be swapped for a veg patch or more flowerbeds when they are no longer needed.

A family garden with a greenhouse, lawn and well-hidden trampoline.

A town garden with structure provided by pergolas, topiary, brick paths and mature planting.

Garden planning

Once you have a wish list of the new components you want, it’s time to think about how and where to fit them in. At this stage it’s useful to draw a scale plan of the garden on graph paper and mark on it the features you plan to keep, such as mature trees and shrubs, a path or shed. If you trace or photocopy this so that you have several copies, you can experiment with positioning possible new features in different arrangements. Remember to think about where the sun