Letters From Aix-en-Provence 1960-61

© Warren Zitlau 2021

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Printed in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-1-7364977-2-2

First Edition

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Introduction

The Voyage Over

First Stop: Paris

On to Aix!

Cannes

Spain

Morocco

Return to France Via Spain

Côte d'Azur

Italy

Switzerland

Back to Paris

United Kingdom

Goodbye to France

Epilogue

In Memory

Barbara Ann Snow Zitlau

(1938-2017)

Her children rise up and call her blessed

– Prov. 31:28a

Introduction

My mother, Barbara Ann Snow, received a Fulbright Scholarship to study in Aix-en-Provence, France in 1960-61. It was one of the defining moments of her life.

Shortly after her death in 2017, I read through the following letters she wrote to her beloved parents, Warren and Rachel Snow. I am now 30 years older than my mother was when she mailed these letters and postcards back home from France, Spain, Morocco, Italy, Switzerland, and Great Britain.

Seeing my mother as a single, 23 year old navigating the world has been wonderful. She is the same woman I recognize as my mom, with a love of life, food, art, history, cultures, language, and people. Some of her hopes and dreams are new to me, such as her desire to go to graduate school, and I have enjoyed reading her comments about dating and her French boyfriend.

I admire her determination to travel in the days before easy international phone calls, email, instant access to maps and directions on a smartphone, online reviews, automatic hotel check-in, and ATMs. Courage and effort were required to experience foreign countries.

The conflicting realities of a young woman raised in the ‘40s and ‘50s are evident. Barbara uses the words colored and non-colored to refer to people in a completely descriptive way, yet acknowledges that society, and particularly the church, has fostered racial prejudice. Raised in a traditional mainstream Protestant church, she had little positive understanding of anything Catholic, yet had a painting of the Madonna and Child in her childhood bedroom; took efforts to have a medal blessed by the Pope sent to her neighbor in Delaware; and was avidly pro-Kennedy. Her senior thesis was on the educational theories of Fénelon, the 17th century French priest and royal tutor.

In the midst of French political uncertainties regarding Algerian independence, the US-Russia space race and cold war, and an American presidential election, the focus of her letters remains on personal relationships, adapting to French culture and bureaucracy, living on a stipend, and planning her future. She remained a Francophile her entire life.

The following article is from the student newspaper, The Review, at the University of Delaware regarding her Fulbright scholarship—in the days before spell check.

Sept. 24 [1960]

Dear Mother & Daddy –

I am having a fabulous time. I have never met such delightful people before, especially the boys. There are 75 Fulbrights on board. Also there are 24 Marshal Scholars who are going to England.

My roommate is very nice. We enjoyed the send-off they gave us in New York very much. My only regret was having to say good-bye to you.

One of the families did not get off in time! A tug boat came out to get them.

The boat is really swaying now. They have put up extra ropes to hang on to in the dining room area. I have rented a deck chair because the deck is the best place to stay. At 11:00 in the morning, soup is served and at 4:00 in the afternoon, we have tea. There is always something to do. Yesterday a group of us had a round of singing – everything from Christmas carols to folk songs.

Thursday night I danced until 2:00 am, but last night many of the kids weren’t feeling so well. I have been most fortunate so far. I had a headache yesterday after going to the movies, but it left before long.

Thank you so much for the beautiful flowers – 12 large mums (6 yellow + 6 white). I have written a postcard to Aunt Ruby and Uncle Ike[1], Grandmother[2], Glady[3], Roberta[4], and Mr. Briggs.

If it is too windy Monday, the boat won’t land at Cherbourg. Instead, a tender boat will come out to get us. I’m beginning to wonder how that will be accomplished.

The waiter for my table is a very nice old chap. The food has been delicious. I eat at 9:00, 1:30, and 7:45.

It is a bit difficult to write while swaying back and forth. I will write again when I get to Paris.

Love,

Barb

From Travel Log:

9/21-9/26 Queen Elizabeth

9/26 – arrived at Cherbourg by tender – took the boat train to Paris (4 hours) – passed thru Caen and saw the beautiful fields of Normandy.

-met by Fulbright representatives

-went to Cité Universitaire Fondation des Etats Unis

1 Ruby Elizabeth Heltzel Riddleberger (1905-1987) and Hensel Dorsey Riddleberger (1894-1969).

2 Annie Frances Hale Snow (1877-1963).

3 A classmate at the University of Delaware.

4 Roberta Davis Stephenson (1938-2016), classmate at Mount Pleasant High School in Wilmington, DE and roommate at the University of Delaware.

September 27

Dear Mother and Dad,

I have finally made it to Paris! I’ve done so many things that I don’t know where to start telling about them.

First of all, the boat trip was delightful. As I told you before, I was very much impressed by the kids. I danced practically every night. I met a terrific boy. He is starting to study law at Oxford. He is a Marshal scholar. He graduated from Dartmouth. We have each other’s addresses, but I’m afraid I’ll never see him again. There was a fire on the ship last evening. Some of the lights went off.

A tender boat came along side of the Queen Elizabeth and took us to Cherbourg. It was so sad to leave the ship and our new friends. The train ride from Cherbourg to Paris took about 4 hours. That part of the country is very lovely. Many times it looks just like the Valley[5] except the architecture of the buildings is much different.

This place where I’m staying in Paris (The United States House) is not too great, but at least it has hot and cold running water. Today we were given our checks - 894.80 NF[6]. I suppose that’s close to $178. The committee has done very little to help us. First we had to find the correct bank. Six of us started out on the metro (subway). I must say the metro is very well organized, and we were most pleased with our success. We had to take three different trains. I decided to bring my trunk here because I need so many things. You should have seen the suitcases and trunks some kids brought!

With all this running around, I finally ended up with my roommate. The US ambassador is giving a reception for us Friday night. We have a sightseeing tour tomorrow…. I would be most disheartened if I had to stay here. I wish I was going to Aix tomorrow.

Thanks for your letter. It was so nice to get it with my check this morning.

Love,

Barb

Travel Log:

9/27 – saw Place Opéra, rue de la Paix; Place Vendôme. saw about luggage at Gare St. Lazare, had interviews at the Sorbonne

9/28 – bus tour of important sights. Saw Leningrad Orchestra at Palais de Chaillot, walked down to the Eiffel Tower

9/29 – visited Panthéon – saw graves of Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, etc. Saw play - L’Aigle à deux têtes by Jean Cocteau at Théâtre Sarah Bernhardt

5 The Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.

6 New Francs. The French currency was revalued in 1960.

My trunk arrived in good condition.

September 30

Dear Mother and Dad,

Well, I’m still navigating. I like my courses very much. They are given at the Sorbonne. The French call their bathrooms water closets (W.C.). Yesterday, I went to the WC at the Sorbonne and was horrified! It is used by both sexes. I decided I would have to be deathly ill before I used anything like that!

The other day, my roommate and I took the metro (subway) back to the U.S. house. You can imagine the look on our faces when the train didn’t stop at our stop (Cité Universitaire). It went straight through and we ended up 8 stops later, somewhere in the suburbs of Paris. Fortunately, the officials were very nice and we found a train back. All in all, I have had much success riding the metros. They are so well organized.

Now for the brighter side - we saw all the major points of interest on our bus tour. Yesterday, I saw the Pantheon where many great French men are buried such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, etc. The Luxembourg Gardens are really beautiful. Last night, I saw a play by Jean Cocteau of the Académie Française. Jay had studied it, so I was able to understand much of it.

Tonight, we are going to a reception given by the U.S. ambassador then to the Comédie-Française to see Molière’s play Le Bourgeois gentilhomme. I suggested to one of my teachers that we visit Versailles - she thought it was a good idea.

I met two perfectly delightful girls who are also going to Aix. One is from Richmond, Virginia and the other is from Chattanooga, Tennessee. Maggie is staying in Paris. Write soon.

Love, Barb

I was shocked to hear about Margie.[7] Now I can’t see the wedding.

7 Margie Evans, a neighbor and childhood friend.

October 1

Dear Mother & Dad,

Thank you so much for your letters. I always get a lump in my throat when I read them, but I still enjoy them. I miss you a lot, also my car, friends, and Pepsi.

I think I am particularly anxious to get news from you because I do not like Paris. Today the hot water went off and we have been cold since we got here. I feel so sorry for the poor kids who must day. The electricity is 220 so no one has been able to iron.

We have had some great times! The girls I go around with are just delightful. Today we visited the Luxembourg Gardens again and then walked down to the Seine. Notre Dame is a marvel, and when you climb up the tower, you can see across the entire city. However, I was much more impressed with the beautiful little chapel called Sainte-Chapelle. There are raised gold fleur-de-lis all over the walls and the stained windows are so beautiful and in such good taste.

The reception at the American Embassy was very nice. They served champagne and sandwiches. I met the French novelist, M. Botour[8], who visited the University [of Delaware] last spring. In fact, he is going to give a lecture for the Fulbrights at the Sorbonne. After the reception, my roommate and I went to see Molière’s