The Pyrenean Haute Route: The HRP high-level trail

About the Author

Tom Martens grew up in Belgium and first visited the Pyrenees in 2008 with a friend who was already an admirer of the mountain chain. This first exploration was so enchanting that he has been back every year since then. He has hiked extensively in the national parks and has traversed the whole length of the Pyrenees several times. He has guided groups of young people on long hikes and climbed many of the Pyrenees’ peaks. So far, Tom has spent 500 nights in the Pyrenees, mostly bivouacking. He has a special interest in the area’s wildlife. Other regions where Tom can often be found hiking include Scotland and Estonia, where he currently lives.

THE PYRENEAN HAUTE ROUTE

THE HRP HIGH-LEVEL TRAIL

by Tom Martens

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,

OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL

www.cicerone.co.uk

© Tom Martens 2019

Third edition 2019 Reprinted 2022, 2024 (with updates)

ISBN 9781783627523

Second edition 2009

ISBN 9781852845551

First edition 2004

ISBN 9781852844264

Printed in China on responsibly sourced paper on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com

The routes of the GR®, PR® and GRP® paths in this guide have been reproduced with the permission of the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre holder of the exclusive rights of the routes. The names GR®, PR® and GRP® are registered trademarks. © FFRP 2019 for all GR®, PR® and GRP® paths appearing in this work.

Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI

Cicerone would like to thank dedicated HRP-lover Peter Forrest for his input and advice, and for keeping trekkers updated with the latest information on the trail. His website www.hrpguide.org is a useful resource for HRP trekkers. Thank you Peter.

Cicerone would also particularly like to thank Ton Joosten, author of earlier editions of this guidebook for his commitment to the trail over many years. Also thanks to all Cicerone users who have given us feedback over the years, it is very valuable. Thanks, and good trekking.

Updates to this guide

While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/981/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time.

The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a published map from an official mapping agency, although naturally we have reviewed them closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide.

We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL.

Register your book: to sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

Front cover: Hikers between Col de l’Albe and the Juclar lakes (Day 34)

CONTENTS

Map key

Overview map

Preface

Route summary tables

INTRODUCTION

The route

Geology

Plants and wildlife

Mountain weather

When to go

Getting there

Accommodation and services

Food, drink and fuel

What to take

Maps

Path conditions

Insurance, mountain safety and rescue

Using this guide

SECTION 1: HENDAYE TO LESCUN

Day 1 Hendaye to Col de Lizuniaga

Day 2 Col de Lizuniaga to Arizkun

Day 3 Arizkun to Aldudes

Day 4 Aldudes to Roncesvalles

Day 5 Roncesvalles to Egurgui

Day 6 Egurgui to Col Bagargui

Day 7 Col Bagargui to Cabane d’Ardané

Day 8 Cabane d’Ardané to Source de Marmitou

Day 9 Source de Marmitou to Lescun

Variant 1 From Refugi de Belagua to Lescun via La Pierre Saint-Martin

SECTION 2: LESCUN TO GAVARNIE

Day 10 Lescun to Refuge d’Arlet

Day 11 Refuge d’Arlet to Candanchu

Day 12 Candanchu to Refuge de Pombie

Day 13 Refuge de Pombie to Refuge de Larribet

Day 14 Refuge de Larribet to Refuge Wallon

Variant 2 Refuge d’Arrémoulit to Refuge Wallon

Summit 1 Grande Fache (3005m) from Refuge Wallon

Day 15 Refuge Wallon to Refuge de Bayssellance

Summit 2 Vignemale (3298m) from Refuge de Bayssellance

Day 16 Refuge de Bayssellance to Gavarnie

Summit 3 Le Taillon (3144m) from Gavarnie

SECTION 3: GAVARNIE TO SALARDÚ

Day 17 Gavarnie to Héas

Summit 4 Piméné (2801m) from Refuge des Espuguettes

Day 18 Héas to Parzán

Variant 3 Parzán via the high route to Hourquette de Héas

Day 19 Parzán to Refugio de Viados

Day 20 Refugio de Viados to Refuge de la Soula

Day 21 Refuge de la Soula to Refuge du Portillon

Day 22 Refuge du Portillon to Refugio de la Renclusa

Summit 5 Pic Perdiguère (3222m) from Portal de Remune

Summit 6 Pico de Aneto (3404m) from Refugio de la Renclusa

Day 23 Refugio de la Renclusa to Hospital de Vielha

Day 24 Hospital de Vielha to Refugi de la Restanca

Day 25 Refugi de la Restanca to Salardú

Summit 7 Montardo d’Aran (2826m) from the Coll de Crestada

Variant 4 Three days on the GR11 from Refugio de Viados to Hospital de Vielha

SECTION 4: SALARDÚ TO L’HOSPITALET-PRÈS-L’ANDORRE

Day 26 Salardú to Refugi Gràcia Airoto

Day 27 Refugi Gràcia Airoto to Alós d’Isil

Day 28 Alós d’Isil to Refugi Enric Pujol

Summit 8 Mont Roig (2868m) from Refugi Enric Pujol

Day 29 Refugi Enric Pujol to Refugi de Certascan

Variant 5 To Noarre via Tavascan

Summit 9 Pic de Certascan (2853m) from Coll de Certascan

Day 30 Refugi de Certascan to Refugi de Baborte/del Cinquantenari

Day 31 Refugi de Baborte/del Cinquantenari to Étang de la Soucarrane

Day 32 Étang de la Soucarrane to Refugi de Sorteny

Day 33 Refugi de Sorteny to Refugi de Cabana Sorda

Day 34 Refugi de Cabana Sorda to l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre

SECTION 5: L’HOSPITALET-PRÈS-L’ANDORRE TO BANYULS-SUR-MER

Day 35 L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre to Refuge des Bésines

Day 36 Refuge des Bésines to Refuge des Bouillouses

Variant 6 GR10 to Refuge des Bouillouses

Day 37 Refuge des Bouillouses to Eyne

Day 38 Eyne to Refugi d’Ull de Ter

Summit 10 Pic des Bastiments (2881m)

Day 39 Refugi d’Ull de Ter to Refuge de Mariailles

Day 40 Refuge de Mariailles to Refuge de Batère

Variant 7 GR10 to Refuge des Cortalets

Day 41 Refuge de Batère to Mas de la Fargassa

Day 42 Mas de la Fargassa to Las Illas

Day 43 Las Illas to Col de l’Ouillat

Day 44 Col de l’Ouillat to Banyuls-sur-Mer

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Glossary

Appendix C Facilities table

PREFACE

The breathtaking view from the Vignemale peak (3298m) to Vallée de Gaube (Summit 2)

The Pyrenean Haute Route, originally an idea of Frenchman Georges Véron, takes adventurous hikers through regions where they will find themselves amid only mountains, lakes and wildlife. Véron undertook the first complete traverse of the Pyrenees by the central ridge in 1968; that it took so long before somebody attempted this adventure says something about the challenges involved. Ton Joosten and Peter Forrest further developed the route and made it accessible to a wider audience. This new edition builds on the superb work these hiker-writers have done, presenting the traverse of the Pyrenees in 44 stages. Some people will take more time, while others will do it faster. Every hiker can make their own traverse depending on their ambitions and capacities. For example, Georges Véron completed his original traverse in 41 days, together with two friends and aided by a car following with gear and supplies, while ultra-runner Mike Coppock recently ran the route in 12 days, self-supported. I personally believe that the route as it is suggested in this book is a good way to take in the ever-changing landscapes and hiking experiences. Doing it in 44 days, possibly spread over several years, will allow you to fully experience the Pyrenees, get to know some of the people who live there and see some of the abundant wildlife present in almost every corner.

Over the past 15 years I have spent a considerable amount of time in the Pyrenees, and I will definitely continue to explore this wonderful mountain chain. Some routes I have done so often that I feared I would grow tired of them, but on every outing I discover new aspects; corners I haven’t noticed before, plants I haven’t studied, animals whose behaviour I’m just starting to understand, caves I haven’t explored yet… and there are people with whom I haven’t shared a hiking experience yet. I conclude here by thanking everyone who has joined me so far on hikes on the French-Spanish border. I remember all of you, because Pyrenean adventures create intense memories. In particular I’d like to thank Brent D’Hooge, who introduced me to the Pyrenees, and Filip Bronchart and Jordi Catala, who joined me on some of the most extreme hikes.

Tom Martens

The Cirque de Gavarnie is one of the best places to see how geological forces have shaped the Pyrenees (Day 16)

The colourful view from near Le Taillon (3144m, summit 3) over the Ordesa y Monte Perdido national park

ROUTE SUMMARY TABLES

Hikers climbing through the Canigou cheminée (Day 40)

INTRODUCTION

Barrage d’Ossoue contains meltwater from the Vignemale (Day 16)

The Pyrenean Haute Route (PHR) is one of the greatest hiking challenges in Europe. It’s a 750km thru hike that takes you from the Atlantic Ocean all the way to the Mediterranean Sea, following the high ridge of the Pyrenees as closely as possible. Those who hike it all the way, in a single expedition or in several hikes over a longer period of time, often describe it as the most varied and satisfying hike they’ve done.

The PHR (or HRP, for Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne) does not have dedicated waymarking in the same way as the other trans-Pyrenean routes, the GR10 and GR11. These Grande Randonnée trails also cross the whole length of the Pyrenees but they offer hikers a distinctively waymarked route, whereas the PHR combines different routes with the aim of staying as high as possible on the way to the other side of the Pyrenees. It is therefore more demanding in terms of orientation and self-sufficiency. It also offers a chance to see parts of the Pyrenees where hardly anyone goes and where you can feel at one with the magnificent scenery.

The variation in landscapes is enormous: lush greenery in the Basque Country’s hills, unearthly karst formations around Pic d’Anie, impressive high-mountain stretches in the Central Pyrenees, high snow-covered cols, half-frozen lakes, glaciers, emerald-green lakes, green pastoral areas, cork oak forests, dry Mediterranean vegetation and much more.

You will experience all of this – provided you’re up for a serious challenge. It takes several weeks to cover the distance, the climate changes greatly as you progress, you will cover all sorts of terrain and you may encounter weather extremes of all kinds. There are many mountain huts to provide you with food and shelter, but you will also sometimes need to carry food for several days and find water on the trail.

The rewards, however, are numerous. You can take in the incredible scenery, sample local cheeses on the way, climb a peak to overlook the mountain chain, enjoy a night under the stars, share experiences with other hikers and go for the next challenge. The PHR isn’t just a hike: it’s a life-changing experience.

The Pyrenean Haute Route is effectively, in many places, a mountaineering route and should only be undertaken by experienced trekkers, even though throughout the traverse there are a number of alternative routes that avoid the most challenging obstacles. These can be taken in case of bad weather or other limiting circumstances. Likewise, there are several alternative routes that offer an even more exciting trail, in case you are in for a more serious challenge.

The route

The first section of the Haute Route starts from the Atlantic Ocean in the small town of Hendaye. After leaving the ocean behind, the route quickly heads into the green Basque hills. On Days 2 and 3 the trail passes a few typical Basque villages and Day 4 takes you above 1000m before heading down to the Col de Roncevaux – a place of great historic importance where the Haute Route joins the Camino de Santiago for a short while. On Days 5 and 6 the route goes higher into Basque country, and the crossing of Pic d’Orhy marks the first 2000m threshold. After this the route heads into what might be considered true mountain landscapes, and then on Day 9 there is a descent to the beautiful village of Lescun, sheltered by a cirque with several impressive peaks – it has lost nothing of its authenticity.

THREE WAYS TO TRAVERSE THE PYRENEES FROM COAST TO COAST

The GR10 and GR11 routes both traverse the whole length of the Pyrenees, respectively on the French and on the Spanish side. Being restricted to one country is one thing that sets them apart from the Haute Route, which doesn’t hesitate to cross the border wherever there is a higher route on the other side. Another important difference is the waymarking: the GR routes are easy to follow thanks to their white-and-red markers which are found from coast to coast. The Haute Route on the other hand has no official status and you won’t even see the French term ‘Haute Route Pyrénéenne’ or the Spanish equivalent ‘Transpireneica Alta Ruta’ on the way.

The Haute Route does, however, follow the GR routes regularly, at those places where they happen to take the highest tracks along the central ridge. At the Atlantic Ocean, GR10 and Haute Route hikers walk together for several hours. In the Central Pyrenees, the Haute Route is easy to follow as the GR10 and 11 routes also follow some of most challenging parts of the whole Pyrenean range. Many variants, which can be choosen if the weather is not in your favour, follow one of the GR routes, offering a low-level alternative that’s easier to navigate. And during the final days of the Haute Route, you will mostly follow the GR10.

The second section is all about the transition to the High Pyrenees; on Days 10 and 11 the route follows relatively high paths, but it isn’t until Day 13 that you encounter a mountain that makes a lasting impression, the memorably shaped Pic du Midi d’Ossau dominating the entire lanscape. Passes have been relatively easy so far, but this changes on Day 14 when you need to find and cross the Port du Lavedan – and the next day you are treated to an even higher climb to the Col de Cambales. It is now very clear that you have entered the Central Pyrenees; there are high mountains and beautiful lakes as far as the eye can see. You might be tempted to climb one or more of the classic summits before reaching Gavarnie, a small mountain village, on Day 16. Despite its isolation, the village is a very popular tourist destination and many hikers opt to take a break here to admire the unsurpassed views of the Cirque de Gavarnie with its Grande Cascade, one of Europe’s highest waterfalls.

The third section is a rough hike through and over the Central Pyrenees. Day 17 is relatively easy, whereas the next day you are confronted with high passes and unforgiving terrain. The scenery is continuously impressive. Day 19 provides something of a break: an easy-to-follow route leads to a magnificent part of the Spanish Pyrenees, where you pass an ancient mountain community at Viados and walk next to the impressive slopes of the Posets mountain. The next day presents a high climb and a steep descent – a good warm-up for what is to come. Days 21 to 23 are a true confrontation with the most challenging landscapes of the Pyrenees: high, snow-covered mountain passes, long stretches over boulders with only cairns to guide you, and a couple of steep scrambles. Pico Aneto, the Pyrenees’ highest mountain, is an optional climb along this route. The two final days of the third section take you through the beautiful Aigüestortes national park, with its sharp peaks and numerous lakes. After the previous days this might feel like a walk in the park!

In the fourth section there are far fewer extremes then in the previous one, but neither is it a hike to underestimate. The section starts with three days of exciting hiking in areas with little waymarking. There are again stretches with only cairns to follow and which include a few scrambles. The next three days you hike along long rivers and through large valleys in the Spanish Pyrenees, with a few small villages on the way. After a brief passage in France, the Haute Route goes into Andorra, where the magnificent Circ de Tristaina welcomes you. Flower-rich Andorra is crossed in two days and finally you descend back into France.

The final section of the Haute Route takes you over the impressive Pic Carlit, before descending to the Plateau de Cerdagne where you encounter authentic French villages. The high ridgewalk in Spain which then follows is an experience never to forget, with vast, colourful views. Another impressive mountain, Pic du Canigou, is then climbed. From its peak you can already spot the Mediterranean Sea. The temperature rises considerably as you hike down to the Tech river, but the route then takes you again into the mountains for two more days. On the last day, you are still above 1000m just a few hours before reaching the finish at the Mediterranean Sea.

TEN CLASSIC SUMMITS

If you’ve got time and energy, a worthwhile way of using them would be to climb one or several of the mountains that are close to the main route. Some of these have gained legendary status due to their height or history, while others may not be so famous but nevertheless offer magnificent views over the region. This guide describes the ascent of 10 classic Pyrenean summits.

Climbing to the Aneto peak (3404m)

None of these climbs are technically difficult: they are all either grade F or F+ (the two easiest levels of the alpine grades, these require no special training or experience). However, even in late summer an ice axe and crampons are required for the glaciers of the Vignemale and Pico de Aneto.

Grande Fache (3005m, Day 14) provides a classic and easy ascent to a 3000m summit situated on the French-Spanish border that offers stunning views of the Balaitous massif.

Vignemale (3298m, Day 15) is the highest mountain of the French Pyrenean summits and offers a magnificent glacier walk in Henry Russell’s footsteps.

Le Taillon (3144m, Day 16) is one of the many summits of the Cirque de Gavarnie. The walk, which contains the crossing of the famous Brèche de Roland, is a long, colourful excursion to a limestone wilderness.

Piméné (2801m, Day 17) is a mountain of relatively modest height that has become famous because of the superb views of the Cirque de Gavarnie.

Pic Perdiguère (3222m, Day 22) is the highest summit of the Cirque de Portillon, which contains about a dozen