Pocket Rough Guide Ibiza and Formentera (Travel Guide eBook)

IBIZA & FORMENTERA

Only the unacquainted could dismiss Ibiza as little more than a ravers’ paradise and those who know the island well know it to be one of Spain’s most cosmopolitan and attractive corners – affluent, self-confident, and with a fascinating heritage and a vibrant, home-grown music scene of global reach and importance.

Las Salinas Beach

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Ibiza architecture

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A pivotal part of the Carthaginian empire between 600 and 50 BC, Ibiza was closely linked with the fertility goddess Tanit and the god of dance Bes (from whom the name Ibiza is derived). Its status, however, declined under Roman occupation, and the island spent the next two thousand years as a backwater. Then, in the early 1960s, political opponents of Franco settled here and waves of beatniks discovered the island. Ibiza’s decidedly bohemian character is rooted in this era, and remains particularly evident in the north of the island, where you’ll find ethnic bazaars and hippy markets, as well as a large population of alternative types.

The island’s natural beauty is captivating. Large swathes of the coastline survive in pristine condition, with sweeping sandy bays and exquisite coves tucked beneath soaring cliffs. Ibiza’s hilly, thickly wooded interior is peppered with isolated whitewashed villages and terraced fields of almonds, figs and olives. To really experience the scenic beauty and tranquility of the island’s countryside, stay at an agroturimo (rural hotel) for a while; many excellent new places have opened in the last few years.

What’s new

Recent years have seen an increase in outdoor, daytime parties challenging the post-midnight clubs of old, with the rising popularity of pool parties and beach clubs sucking up ever more tourist euros. Musically, clubs and venues are broadening their horizons, with grime, rap and UKG getting more playtime, as well as funk and disco, instead of just the usual house and techno. Behind the scenes, dramatic rental increases on both islands mean seasonal workers can’t afford a home, potentially leaving many venues without a full complement of staff.

When to visit

Ibiza and Formentera are very warm between June and late September, when cloudless skies are virtually guaranteed. The heat can get intense in July and August, when highs in the 30s are common, but even at this time of year cooling sea breezes usually intervene to prevent things getting too uncomfortable. Winter in the Pitiuses (southern Balearics) is also glorious, with very little rainfall and temperatures normally high enough to enjoy sitting outside in cafés, even in January. As far as crowds go, there’s a very clearly defined tourist season on both islands that begins slowly around Easter, peaks in August when the islands get really packed, and slowly winds down from late September and throughout October. Winter is a wonderfully peaceful time for a visit, with late January and early February a particularly beautiful time to come. Nightlife might be thin on the ground, but the skies are still blue and the almond trees and winter wild flowers are in full bloom.

The charismatic capital, Ibiza Town, harbours most of the island’s architectural treats, including a spectacular walled enclave, Dalt Vila, and a port area stuffed with hip bars, stylish restaurants and fashionable boutiques. Laying claim to be the world’s clubbing capital, Ibiza is an incredibly hedonistic place, where the nights are celebrated with unique spirit in landmark clubs scattered across the southern half of the island.

Serene, easy-going Formentera, the other main island of the Pitiuses (southern Balearics), is just a short ferry ride south of Ibiza yet offers a complete contrast. Boasting a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere and miles of ravishing sandy beaches lapped by translucent water, it has little or no nightlife and few historical sights apart from some sombre fortress churches and minor archeological ruins. It’s the simplicity of life here, a back-to-nature appeal, which is Formentera’s real allure.

Experimental Beach

Experimental Beach

Language

Catalan, not Castilian Spanish, is the official language of the islands, and we have therefore used Catalan names throughout the guide.

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Where to…

Shop

There are some great boutiques around La Marina, Sa Penya and Vara de Rey, where you’ll find interesting vintage, designer and curio shops among the slew of t-shirt and trinket vendors. Elsewhere around the islands, hippy markets selling quality, handmade goods are popular, while a couple of large, eccentric shopping emporiums have popped up on the road to Santa Gertrudis. Shopping in Formentera is limited and the shops around the main square in Sant Francesc are your best bet.

OUR FAVOURITES: Sluiz Vino & Co. Holala!

Eat

Ibiza Town is the main draw, with plenty of hip cafés and chic restaurants clustered around La Marina, Sa Penya and Dalt Vila, while nearby Talamanca is great for seafood tapas. Santa Eulària has its own ‘restaurant street’, Carrer Sant Vicent, and a lively port with some decent dining options in summer. San An can hardly be described as a foodie haven but you can eat well along the harbourfront and just outside town. Santa Gertrudis is home to a bewildering number of restaurants given its diminutive size, while the variety of restaurants along the Sant Llorenç−Sant Joan road make it another dining hotspot. Formentera is Ibiza in miniature, with the same range and variety of eating options, albeit on a smaller scale.

OUR FAVOURITES: Bon Sol La Paloma Beso Beach

Drink

In Spain, drinking and eating are rarely separated and most bars offer food of some kind, even if just tapas or snacks. For exclusive drinking and bar hopping, head to Sa Penya and La Marina in Ibiza Town. Sant Antoni ‘s stylish bars lining the promenade connect the Sunset Strip with Caló des Moro, which are particularly appealing at sunset. Santa Eulària has more of a family vibe, with a focus on restaurants rather than bars, while other towns in the north, such as Sant Joan or Sant Miquel, are positively dead past midnight.

OUR FAVOURITES: Paradise Lost Teatro Pereyra Experimental Beach

Go out

For a gentle introduction, start with Pacha in Marina Botafoc, while nearby Heart offers the option to combine dancing with dinner and a show. San An’s clubs tend to be cheap and cheerful and draw a younger crowd. Platja d’en Bossa is home to Ushuaïa and Hï, while clubbing titans Privilege and Amnesia are further afield outside Sant Rafel. For a more hard-core, less hyped experience, head to DC10 on the Ses Salines road, or Underground in Sant Rafel. The only real nightlife in northeast Ibiza is at Las Dalias, while sleepy Formentera’s two clubs are both in Es Pujols.

OUR FAVOURITES: Pikes Hï Underground

Ibiza and Formentera events calendar

Throughout the year, Ibiza and Formentera are host to some wonderfully diverse events, from cutting-edge music festivals to natural wonders. It’s not possible to list them all, but below are some of our favourites, some of which may well be worth planning a trip around. The Essentials section details traditional and religious local festivals.

ALMOND BLOSSOM

Late January to early February

Crisp winter days are ideal for walking, especially from late January when the almond trees are in bloom and the islands take on a pinky-white hue, particularly around Santa Agnès in Ibiza. Better yet, walk at night to see them by the light of the moon.

CARNIVAL

February

Towns and villages on both islands live it up during the week before Lent with marches, fancy-dress parades and classical music concerts, with the best displays on show in Ibiza Town.

CALÇOTADA

February to April

The annual calçot harvest takes place in late winter and is celebrated every other Sunday at Bar Can Berri with a large barbecue, live music and dancing.

FLOWER POWER

Early March

Ibiza’s psychedelic hippy heritage is commemorated with flowers, rainbows, outrageous costumes and an enormous party in the village of Sant Josep.

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ATZARÓ SPRING PARTY

End March

The lush gardens of Atzaró are the perfect setting for this much anticipated annual celebration of the arrival of spring, with live music, food and market stalls, holistic workshops and plenty of fun for kids.

MEDIEVAL FAIR

Second week in May

Dalt Vila turns back the clock in celebration of its Phoenician, Roman, Arabic and Christian past, and for a week the old town is home to knights, princesses, wizards and dragons, with colourful market stalls, medieval music, spit roasts, tournaments, parades and magic shows.

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INTERNATIONAL MUSIC SUMMIT

End of May

Three-day event featuring seminars and debates from leading influencers in the electronic music community, culminating in breath-taking shows in Dalt Vila.

FORMENTERA JAZZ FESTIVAL

First weekend in June

Four days of workshops, concerts, DJ and jam sessions from local, national and international artists, with most activities taking place between the Jardí de ses Eres and the Plaça de sa Constitució in Sant Ferran.

IBIZA GAY PRIDE

Mid-June

Fabulous four-day event with exhibitions, concerts and special club nights culminating in the exuberant last-day Grand Parade around the streets of Ibiza Town.

PERSEID METEOR SHOWER

Mid-July to mid-August

Ibiza and Formentera’s clear skies are ideal for star gazing, no more so than during the annual Perseid shower which peaks around the 11−13th August. Grab a blanket, find a hilltop and enjoy the show.

IBIZA LIGHT FESTIVAL

Mid-October

For two nights, the most emblematic parts of Ibiza’s old port are transformed by light, video and audio artists and designers as part of a cultural project celebrating light, art and technology.

HALLOWEEN

31st October

Forget the club opening and closing parties, Halloween is officially the biggest party night of the year in Ibiza, with both venues and punters relishing the ghoulish theme to the max.

SANT MATEU WINE FESTIVAL

First weekend in December

A tremendously sociable event, with crowds sampling the local vintages and feasting on barbecued sobrassada and butifarra sausages, cooked over tin baths.

CAP D’ANY

New Year’s Eve

Traditionally celebrated in Spain by eating twelve grapes, one on each strike of the clock at midnight. Ibiza celebrates with big parties in all the clubs and a street party on Vara de Rey.

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15 THINGS NOT TO MISS

It’s not possible to see everything that Ibiza and Formentera has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the islands’ highlights, from secluded beaches to clubs and nightlife. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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Sunset at Hostal La Torre Ibiza’s thrills and spills do not come cheap, but, happily, the best spectacle of all is free.

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Es Vedrà Looming above the southern coastline, this enigmatic 378m-high island looks magnificent from any angle.

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Clubbing House music’s spiritual home, Ibiza serves up a selection of the globe’s leading DJs virtually every night of the week in the summer months.

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Cala Llentrisca A short walk over a rocky headline keeps the masses away from this picture-perfect, secluded beach.

Pikes Quirky, avant-garde boutique hotel that’s host to some of the best party nights on the island.

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Platja Illetes The finest beach in the Balearics, this sublime slender finger of white sand lapped by shallow pellucid waters lies at Formentera’s northern-most tip.