Your Complete Guide to the Arizona National Scenic Trail

Introduction

INTRODUCTION to the ARIZONA NATIONAL SCENIC TRAIL

ARIZONA EVOKES IMAGES of breathtaking landscapes, exotic animals, star-filled skies, and dramatic sunsets. Even for those who have never traveled through this wild part of the West, the very concept of the place suggests mystery, beauty, and allure. Glancing at a map of the state reveals an abundance of national forests, national parks, Native American reservations, and huge tracts of land free of roads, cities, or any other semipermanent footprint of modern society. From rolling grasslands and lush Sonoran Desert to alpine peaks and one of the world’s deepest canyons, it is a land of biodiversity unlike anywhere else on Earth. This is Arizona.

And through its wild heart runs a single trail—an 800-plus-mile path from Mexico to Utah that links mountains, deserts, forests, canyons, rivers, communities, and people. This is the Arizona National Scenic Trail, or the AZT for short.

One of only 11 National Scenic Trails in the country, and only the third to be completed, the AZT beckons the adventurous at heart to explore the more remote and unknown regions of the state. But it also winds through the Grand Canyon, Saguaro National Park, and other famous natural wonders.

The AZT welcomes all nonmotorized forms of locomotion, and the diversity of trail users is one of the many phenomena that make it unique. On this trail, hikers, runners, and backpackers are just as common as mountain bikers and equestrians, and trail conflicts among these groups are almost unheard of. After all, they worked side-by-side to build the trail. At seasonal trail-maintenance events, you’re just as likely to see folks in convertible pants and sun hats as in Lycra and helmets or cowboy hats and Carhartts. Such diversity helps define the trail.

Just because there is a trail through the entire state does not mean it’s easily accessible every step of the way. While trailheads and signs exist, the AZT experience is intended to be a personal encounter with nature on its own terms. Unlike other long-distance trails, the AZT offers the possibility of your going for days without seeing humans other than your own companions. Many miles unfold between resupply services on some AZT passages. In fact, you might even forget that civilization exists. Yes, you’ll see trail signs, but relying on them as a primary means of navigation is foolhardy. And then there’s the dry Southwest’s lack of water sources other than what you carry in, making a crossing of Arizona a very serious endeavor.

What you will need on this journey in the Grand Canyon State is a reliable guidebook, especially if you want to get to know Arizona a little more intimately. And now you have it—Your Complete Guide to the Arizona National Scenic Trail. Whether you plan to attempt the entire AZT in one crossing or, like most trail enthusiasts, will spend the next decade section-hiking (or section-biking or section-horseback-riding) the trail one passage at a time, this book will help you plan and navigate appropriately. We created it to inform, entertain, and inspire you.

Directions in these pages will lead you to trailheads, water sources, and the twists and turns you’ll need to stay on the trail and keep from getting lost. You’ll also find profiles on Gateway Communities—the small towns near the trail where you can make segues to basic supplies (such as Advil and peanut butter) and sustenance and services (Mexican food and massage therapy, for instance). Gateway Communities, by the way, make great weekend destinations for your one-day and overnight AZT adventures.

We’ve also included information about Arizona’s geology and botany. The more you learn about the forces that shaped this wild landscape and the organisms that have adapted to live here, the more you’ll become enamored of Arizona.

Most of all, we hope you enjoy the AZT. And in the words of the late, great Edward Abbey (as he wrote in Desert Solitaire), May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view … where storms come and go as lightning clangs upon the high crags, where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you… .

History

Dale Shewalter, a fifth-grade schoolteacher, had a dream, and that dream became the AZT. After attending college in Illinois, Dale wanted to hike the Appalachian Trail (AT), but he couldn’t afford to do it right away. As a geophysicist, he felt Tucson would be a promising area for finding work and putting some money into the bank before striking out on the AT. But when he moved to Arizona, in 1974, his priorities soon changed: I saw the Sonoran Desert, and I was instantly converted, he said.

Dale busied himself with work, volunteering at local schools, and getting his teaching certificate. He moved to Flagstaff in 1978 to teach full-time. His thirst for exploration was strong, and in 1982 he walked the length of the Mogollon Rim, the fantastic easterly–westerly escarpment that divides the lower-elevation deserts in southern Arizona from the pine-clad plateaus of the north. After completing this route, he started to look for a south–north hike. I saw all the forests along the way, and I thought I could link them in one continuous hike, he recalled.

Thus, in 1985, Dale started near Nogales, along the Mexico–U.S. border, and made it to Flagstaff in just a couple of weeks. He continued on to Fredonia, a short distance from the Utah border, proving that a continuous trail linking the wildest parts of Arizona might be possible.

Immediately thereafter, he began traveling around the state giving presentations on his vision of a trail connecting communities, mountains, canyons, deserts, forests, public lands, historic sites, various trail systems, wilderness areas, and other points of interest. The idea was embraced by all types of trails users throughout Arizona and by official bodies that included Arizona State Parks; four national forests—Coconino, Coronado, Kaibab, and Tonto; the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM); and the National Park Service (NPS). (Arizona’s Prescott and Apache National Forests are not on the route, so they were not involved.)

Dale Shewalter, the Father of the Arizona National Scenic Trail, walks a sinuous ribbon of trail he helped develop near the mountain town of Flagstaff.

Dale’s presentation to the Arizona Hiking and Equestrian Trails Committee, an advocacy group for nonmotorized trails, was pivotal to the development of the AZT. Members’ instant enthusiasm evolved into strong public and governmental support. Then–Governor Bruce Babbitt created a coalition focused on recreation and public lands, and Shewalter’s dream gained momentum.

In the late 1980s Kaibab National Forest management hired Dale as the first paid coordinator for the AZT, and all the agencies noted above began establishing segments of the envisioned route. In 1988 the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) dedicated the first segment of the trail: it ran 54 miles, from Grand Canyon National Park’s boundary, north toward Utah.

By 1990 two needs became apparent: a formal partnership among all pertinent governmental agencies to better coordinate efforts, coupled with communication and a nonprofit organization to lead the effort and sustain the trail into the future. Arizona State Parks assumed the lead role and employed coordinators for the AZT throughout the 1990s. To accomplish this work, and along with its own financial contributions, Arizona State Parks used funds from the four proximate national forests cited above, and from the BLM and NPS.

Arizona Trail Association

In 1994, the Arizona Trail Association (ATA) incorporated as a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization and became an organized advocate for the trail that unites people from throughout the state: day-hikers, backpackers, equestrians, mountain bicyclists, runners, trail builders, nature enthusiasts, cross-country skiers, and packers (folks who use horses, mules, llamas, and other animals to haul gear). These committed individuals provided route identification to close the information gaps along the unfinished route. They became the volunteers necessary for building and maintaining the trail; created maps and provided GPS coordinates; identified water sources and resupply points; and raised money and awareness for the ATA. Individuals, families, and businesses purchasing memberships through the ATA have been a tremendous source of financial support since 1994, and they’ve been as important to building the trail as those physically charting the route.

Organized trail crews spent extended periods of time maintaining and repairing the trail. Those groups included various youth corps crews, Sierra Club service trips, American Hiking Society volunteer vacationers, scouting and college groups, Volunteers for Outdoor Arizona, REI service trips, Backcountry Horsemen of America, International Mountain Bicycling Association trail-care crews, and many others. Much of the work took these trail crews deep into the backcountry, where logistics for a typical weekend volunteer work project are challenging.

Many large donors—from outdoor stores and clubs, to large corporations, to small businesses—have provided valuable funding for the AZT. Because of their generous donations, the trail was completed in record time. Additionally, many Land Managers have aggressively pursued Arizona Heritage Fund grants for the trail.

Since the new century began, the once seemingly impossible milestones include:

seeking and gaining National Scenic Trail status;

establishing easements and building the trail on Arizona State Lands in Pima and Pinal Counties;

working to reestablish the trail in areas severely affected by major wildfires;

traversing the challenging topography north of the Gila River;

negotiating through private-land-owner opposition;

developing outstanding maps and GPS data to better guide trail users through remote AZT areas;

building the ATA to its current level of membership and community involvement;

organizing events and trail work parties;

creating AZT products.

Altogether, the above efforts have supported the ATA’s mission to build, maintain, promote, protect, and sustain the AZT as a unique encounter with the land. It is a place for the adventure of a lifetime through some of the most incredible landscapes on Earth.

In sharing the more than 800 miles of the AZT, hikers, backpackers, equestrians, mountain bikers, cross-country skiers, nature photographers, and wildlife enthusiasts also take responsibility for its construction, maintenance, and preservation. The best way to support this spectacular long-distance trail is by becoming a member of the Arizona Trail Association (ATA). A 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, the ATA welcomes contributions, whether in the form of membership dues or donations designated expressly for trail development. All contributions are tax-deductible.

To help ensure the legacy of the AZT and its important role in Arizona’s history and its future, please contact the ATA:

Arizona Trail Association

P.O. Box 36736

Phoenix, AZ 85067

602-252-4794

aztrail.org

The ATA website provides up-to-date narrative information about the trail, GPS and map data, and a comprehensive databook. The latter is an online spreadsheet giving a play-by-play of the entire trail’s water sources, intersections, and other vital information. The ATA relies on your membership dollars to support such endeavors.

Additionally, as a member, you can communicate with other long-distance trail users, land-management personnel, the 5 regional stewards, and some 100 trail stewards. The ATA website offers a complete, up-to-date list of the trail stewards, who are excellent resources regarding specific AZT passages. These committed individuals help keep the entire trail corridor healthy—physically maintaining the tread. They do this individually, with friends, and, when the need arises, with organized, major work events.

Use at Your Own Risk

Within nature are the great unknowns, that which attracts the adventurous among us to explore, attempt, and risk, with the hope of gaining an experience that will enrich our lives. Risk is always a factor in backcountry travel. Many of the activities described in this book can be dangerous, especially when weather is adverse or unpredictable or when unforeseen events or conditions create a hazardous situation.

The ATA has done its best to provide the reader with accurate information about backcountry travel, as well as point out some of its potential hazards. It is the responsibility of the users of this guide to learn the necessary skills for safe backcountry travel and to exercise caution in potentially hazardous areas. The ATA disclaims any liability for injury or other damage caused by backcountry traveling or performing any other activity described in this book. Use it at your own risk, accept responsibility for yourself and those around you, and be prepared for anything you may encounter along the way.

Planning Your Trip

Careful planning can eliminate many problems on the trail. For a long hike, you need to prepare an itinerary, arrange food drops and water caches, acquire and break in the gear you’ll need, and get in shape—not necessarily in that order. Make a detailed checklist and review it carefully. No matter how much you prepare, however, you must remain flexible once you hit the trail because bad weather, illness, and other problems may upset the best-laid plans. In the words of AZT hiker and former Executive Director Dave Hicks, Fail to plan—plan to fail.

When to Go

Avoid low deserts in the summer months and higher alpine areas in late fall, winter, and early spring. South–north travelers usually start sometime in late winter or early spring, while north–south travelers will need to start in late summer or early autumn. To maximize the experience and take advantage of the seasons, travel from Mexico’s border to the Mogollon Rim in the springtime to catch the wildflowers, and from Utah to the Mogollon Rim in autumn to see the changing colors.

Permits

The NPS tightly regulates camping and travel in Saguaro National Park (Passage 9) and Grand Canyon National Park (Passages 37–39). Backpackers wishing to stay in these areas must reserve campsites well in advance. Permits are not required on most of the AZT as long as you’re passing through, but you must get a permit to camp along the trail in certain areas.

The USFS and the BLM allow camping anywhere along the trail on most of the land they manage. Camping in Saguaro National Park and Grand Canyon National Park, both of which are managed by the NPS, requires a permit and is restricted to designated campgrounds. Colossal Cave Mountain Park charges a fee, and you must stay within the designated campground.

All areas of Arizona State Land require a permit if you camp or travel outside the 15-foot trail corridor. Approximately 95 miles of the AZT cross State Land. Though a permit is not required to use this part of the trail, trail users are encouraged to purchase one. That permit allows users to lawfully camp and wander outside the trail corridor, and funds collected from permits benefit state schools and other nonprofit organizations.

For a complete list of Land Managers and the contact information to obtain permits, consult Appendix 2, Land-Management Agencies.

Fences and Gates

Arizona has a long history of cattle ranching, mining, and homesteading. These brave families attempt to carve out a living in an inhospitable environment, and many of them have been in operation for generations. The AZT corridor was established with support from many of these families, with the understanding that trail users would have minimal impact upon the land and no adverse effect on their operations. Every trail user is an ambassador, and maintaining positive relationships with ranching families is necessary to keep this 800-plus-mile path from Mexico to Utah open and available to all.

You will encounter many gates and fences along the way, and because every one of them has pedestrian access, you’ll never have to hop over a fence. The standard rule is this: close the gate unless it’s been intentionally wired open. Even if you find the gate open, please close it. Gates that are accidentally left open, blown open by storms, or by cattle rubbing against them can separate animals from their water sources—a death sentence for the animal and a loss of precious resources for the family.

Backcountry Safety

The AZT was intentionally routed through wild, remote parts of the state to provide the backcountry traveler a primitive experience. In some places help will be far away, so preparing for hazards is essential. Anyone considering a hike along the AZT should carefully evaluate his or her ability to cope with potential dangers. Remember that self-rescue is always the primary means of dealing with an emergency, and is often the fastest. Search-and-rescue missions to assist lost or injured trail users can take a very long time, depending on how far from the nearest road they are.

Mobile-phone coverage is intermittent and unreliable along much of the AZT. Carrying a satellite telephone or personal rescue transponder is a better option, but neither of these pieces of equipment is a substitute for good trail sense and on-the-ground experience.

It’s always smart to leave a detailed itinerary with a reliable friend or family member and check in regularly to acknowledge that you’re OK and on-track. Knowing when a person was last seen or heard from is a vital piece of information for rescue personnel.

Water

The single biggest challenge of the AZT is finding, carrying—and consuming—enough water. Because water does not occur naturally throughout most of the state, you must carry enough for yourself or cache it ahead of time along the trail. Bringing enough of it can mean carrying an additional 25–30 pounds of liquid on your back for some passages. Consult Appendix 1, Water Sources, Along the AZT, to determine which passages may require caches of water.

The ATA has been building and installing bear boxes and metal storage containers at key locations along the trail to provide designated locations, reduce trash along the trail, minimize plastic bottles’ sun exposure, and give trail angels specific places to leave fresh bottles for the next thirsty trail user. Community water caches are typically visible to the public, while private caches are usually hidden or marked with dates of anticipated use. Passages 1, 4, 5, 7, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 27, 31, 32, 33, and 40 list alternate access points in addition to the main southern and northern access points. Keep those passages in mind for expanding your proximity to water sources or for starting a hike or ride with ample water.

Rancher-developed water on leased federal land or State Land is the rancher’s private property and cannot be used without first getting permission from the rancher, unless it’s a life-or-death situation. Please respect the property rights of others.

You’re more likely to encounter algae-filled cattle tanks than sparkling mountain streams on the AZT, but each water source is precious and should not be overlooked.

A GPS unit may be useful for making and finding water caches, but remember that the GPS is not foolproof and is subject to failure or operator error. Be confident that you can find your water caches without it.

Contaminated Water

The greatest peril of drinking natural water is contamination, especially from Giardia lamblia and Cryptosporidium, small parasites that cause severe intestinal distress in humans. A lightweight water-filtration system is the best defense against such impurities. Always carry two means to treat water (chemical, mechanical, or ultraviolet, for example), in case one system fails or your supply dwindles. Drinking contaminated water is a better option than not drinking at all; you can survive a bout with giardia, but dehydration kills quickly.

Dehydration

Arizona’s low humidity, combined with the increased breathing rate you will likely experience when hiking strenuously, can result in potentially dangerous dehydration. Hikers may need a gallon of water per day, which they must carry or cache ahead of time along the route unless there are guaranteed natural sources. Consult "Appendix 1: Water Sources," as well as the ATA’s website (aztrail.org; see the drop-down Trail Resources menu). On the website, you can easily connect with stewards, land managers, and many recent trail users to confirm water availability. (Also see "Conserve Water.)

Heat Exhaustion

The intense sun and heat along much of the AZT can pose a serious health threat during at least half the year. Heat exhaustion can overtake a person rapidly, and because disorientation and confusion are common symptoms, victims may never realize they are in trouble. Keep an eye on yourself and your companions, and take seriously such warning signs as chills, clammy skin, stumbling, muscle weakness, or nausea.

If heat exhaustion advances, it may turn into heatstroke, which is even more serious than heat exhaustion—and often deadly. Signs include the skin going from clammy to hot and dry, and unconsciousness may follow. Rapid and immediate cooling of the entire body is the only backcountry response, and emergency medical personnel should be contacted immediately.

Hypothermia

Arizona’s weather is extreme and can change at any time. Even in the low-elevation deserts, snow and cold rain are possible. An emergency Mylar blanket, which is easy to fit into your first-aid kit, can help retain body heat in emergency situations.

Flash Floods

Floods kill several people each year, and often with just a few seconds’ warning. Survivors have described flash floods as sudden, raging walls of water—not gradually increasing flows. To avoid these calamities, stay aware of the weather and the terrain. Flash floods occur when thunderstorms drop a large amount of rain and the ground cannot quickly absorb all of the water. Obviously, dark skies and the sound of distant thunder are warning signs, but floods can develop many miles away, and the storm may not be evident downstream.

As for terrain, floods follow established waterways and seek the lowest ground. Thus it is important not to camp or linger in dry washes or near streams or rivers, especially during the rainy season or thunderstorms. Low-lying areas that are not obvious waterways can also be inundated. Err on the side of caution and always camp on high ground. Never enter an enclosed canyon when thunderstorms are present or likely.

Lightning

This danger can strike anywhere, but it is most threatening at exposed high elevations, such as Arizona’s sky islands, isolated mountain ranges rising from valleys or flat lands. Other examples the AZT user will encounter include the high ridges of such wilderness areas as the Superstitions, Mazatzals, and San Francisco Peaks. Lightning is most likely during Arizona’s monsoon rainstorms of June, July, and August, and it usually occurs in the afternoon. If you become caught in a storm, look for a low, treeless spot, and squat there until the weather passes. A low-elevation stand of trees of uniform height can also make for a suitable shelter. Hiding in caves is dangerous as they provide an ideal conduit for ground currents.

Animals, Reptiles, and Insects

Most animals you encounter in the backcountry will be more frightened of you than you are of them. However, a large animal occasionally may exhibit protective or aggressive behavior. Animals and their prey, may be attracted by the smell of food. Maintain a clean camp and keep food in one place (such as a stuff sack) 100 yards from your tent to minimize the chance of confronting a hungry visitor. When there are trees near your campsite, hang food high off the ground from a slender branch.

Mountain lions and black bears inhabit Arizona but, for the most part, they are shy of humans. Black bears, which can be black or brown, have poor eyesight and will often stand up on their hind legs simply to get a better look at you. In the unlikely event that you have a threatening encounter with either creature, experts suggest standing up tall, waving your arms, making noise, and slowly backing up. Throwing rocks or a walking stick at a persistent mountain lion may also be effective. If a mountain lion attacks you, fight back.

The best defense against snakes, scorpions, and spiders is to avoid putting your hands and feet in places you can’t see into, such as deep grass, rock crevices, and holes. The majority of snakebites occur on the hands and faces of victims because they are harassing the snake. If you see a