Auburn: The Classic City

USA."

INTRODUCTION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I summon to my aid the muse of local history—the traditions of our own home—the deeds of our native heroes.

~William Gilmore Simms (1851)

Temples fall, statues decay, mausoleums perish, elegant phrases declared are forgotten, but good books are immortal.

~William T. Vernon

Writing a history of one’s hometown is an awesome responsibility. I am not a true native, however. I was born on August 17, 1939, at Dr. Bonnell Souder’s Hospital in Auburn, but grew up in Butler, graduated from Indiana University, and then moved to Auburn in July 1965 to practice law in the office of Edgar W. Atkinson, who had begun the practice in 1909.

Until I came to reside in Auburn in 1965, my contacts were limited to an occasional Saturday shopping expedition with my parents, a movie at the Court Theatre, a nude swim at the YMCA, a basketball game with the Windmills v. the Red Devils, or a date with an Auburn girl. (Auburn girls seemed prettier and more sophisticated than the Butler girls with whom we had spent 12 years of school!)

These contacts and my sense of historical observation perhaps make me as qualified as anyone to write this book. Some would say that history should be written by a disinterested objective person. I am not that! Local history is my passion. I write from the heart. I strive to place the history of our town into the big picture of national history.

Former Speaker of the United States House of Representatives Eugene Tip O’Neil once said, All politics are local. I say, All history is local. The history of our state, of our nation, is the sum of its parts. It is important to know and record the histories of those parts, the histories of the cities, towns, and countries that make up the whole.

It is hoped that the readers of this book, present and future, will feel the essence of our town, of our Auburn, over the 165 years of its existence. Counting generations at 20 years each, 8.25 generations have passed through our town. A child born at the time of publication of this book, in 2002, could look back to a great-great-great-great-grandparent!

SWINEFORD HOUSE. Located at the southwest corner of Main and Ninth Streets, the Swineford House was Auburn’s leading hotel. Horse-drawn hacks brought travelers from the depots at Auburn Junction and West Seventh Street to downtown Auburn. The W.H. Kiblinger Company buggy factory is in the right background.

It is much more difficult to write a short book than a long book. Arcadia Publishing limits books in the Making of America series to 160 pages containing between 45,000 and 55,000 words with the balance in photographs. Therefore, an author has to synthesize 165 years of history into a relatively short space. This book is divided into 12 eras sub-titled with several descriptive words and a relevant quote. The index is limited to no more than 180 entries.

I have attempted to be as objective as possible while providing the reader with the feel of life in Auburn in each era. I am partial to the common person, but have included the community leaders. Great things have been done by many common people. Perhaps they did not realize it at the time, but the advantage of historical hindsight can give them the recognition they deserve.

There are Auburns in 22 states: Alabama, Arkansas, California, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Texas, Washington, West Virginia, and Wyoming.

There are also place names containing the word Auburn, as follows: Mount Auburn, Massachusetts; East Auburn, Maine; Lake Auburn, Maine; Auburn Hills, Michigan; New Auburn, Minnesota; Auburn Township, Ohio; Mount Auburn, Ohio; Lake Auburn, Pennsylvania; Mount Auburn, Wisconsin; and New Auburn, Wisconsin.

BARON DEKALB. DeKalb was the German nobleman for whom DeKalb County was named. He assisted the Americans in the Revolutionary War and was mortally wounded at the Battle of Camden.

The most recent census data shows that the largest Auburn (Alabama) had a population of 42,987 and the smallest (West Virginia) a population of 103 in 2000, while our Auburn had a population of 12,074.

What makes our Auburn special and unique? It is special and unique because it is our town. It is here that our descendants were born and our ancestors died. Many of them lay buried in the Evergreen, Woodlawn, or Roselawn Cemeteries. We have trudged around the square hundreds of times during the DeKalb County Free Fall Fair. Our birth certificates are on record at the courthouse. We remember where we started school, went to junior high, and to high school. We cheered for the Red Devils or the Barons when they won and lamented when they lost.

We hope our children and grandchildren will stay here. Our town reflects our way of life, our values, our goals, and aspirations. There are bigger towns with more amenities, but we like our town just the way it is!

As I started writing this book, I re-read Our Town, the play by Thornton Wilder published in 1938. It is a play wherein it is the stage manager’s task to present the life and times of Grover’s Corners, New Hampshire at the beginning of the twentieth century. The residents—who grow up, work, marry, beget the next generation, and die—are sweet-natured, non-ambitious, and ordinary. And such is Wilder’s point: to strip American life to its mundane fundamentals and illustrate, with a folksiness that belies the play’s rather brutally unsentimental evocation of death, that our mortality is what we share and that, realize it or not, our mortality is what makes our most ordinary moments precious. In telling of the proposed contents of the cornerstone of a new bank being built, the stage manager says:

We’re putting in a Bible . . . and the Constitution of the United States—and a copy of William Shakespeare’s plays. What do you say, folks? What do you think?

Y’know—Babylon once had two million people in it, and all we know about ‘em is the names of the kings and some copies of wheat contracts .

. . and contracts for the sale of slaves. Yet every night all those families sat down to supper, and the father came home from work, and the smoke went up the chimney, same as here. And even in Greece and Rome, all we know about the real life of the people is what we can piece together out of the joking poems and the comedies they wrote for the theatre back then.

So I’m going to have a copy of this play put in the cornerstone and the people a thousand years from now’ll know a few simple facts about us—more than the Treaty of Versailles and the Lindbergh flight.

See what I mean?

So—people a thousand years from now—this is the way we were at the beginning of the twentieth century—This is the way we were; in our growing up and in our marrying and in our living and in our dying.

It is my goal to record This is the way we were. While I cover the basic facts of our geography, our government, our industry, our schools, and the infrastructure of our town, I also convey a sense of the personal family lives and values of our ancestors and of ourselves.

I hope this book will be of help to genealogists in filling in the blanks about family members who were born, married, lived, and died in Auburn. Life is more than significant dates!

I am indebted to many persons for assistance in the preparation of this book.

My son Thompson Smith provided me with the time and secretarial help to prepare the manuscript. My secretary of 33 years, Sharon Kay George, was of great assistance. Tricia Boyer entered the manuscript into the computer and assisted in other ways. Lastly, my wife Barbara Clark Smith edited the text and has greatly improved my writing.

John Martin Smith

July 2002 at Auburn, Indiana

1. IN THE BEGINNING GOD CREATED: GEOLOGY, GEOGRAPHY, AND PLATS (TO 1835)

In the beginning God created the heavens and earth.

~Genesis 1:1

No modern urban planner would have selected the site of Auburn, Indiana as a location for a town. The original plat consisted of an area 4,054 feet north and south and 758 feet east and west containing 70 acres located near the west bank of Cedar Creek.

The soil is unstable. The water table is only 10 to 12 feet below the surface. The creek flooded frequently and left a marshy, wet area in its backwater that was a haven for mosquitoes and other insects. Cedar Creek did provide a possible water-powered mill site and was considered navigable with canoes and pirogues to connect Auburn with Fort Wayne via the St. Joe River.

The only reason the site was selected was that the venerable land speculator and entrepreneur Wesley Park owned the land and was able to persuade a LaGrange County lawyer and member of the Indiana General Assembly to designate his paper town the county seat of the newly created County of DeKalb.

Geologically, Cedar Creek has existed in some form for nearly 13,000 years. In historic times, it rose at Indian Lake in Fairfield Township, meandered southeasterly to the Waterloo area, flowed southerly to Auburn, then southwesterly into Allen County, where it became a tributary of the St. Joseph River at Cedarville.

Cedar Creek was originally in the Eel River/Wabash River Watershed, according to research by Mike Walter. At some point during the geological eons a glacier probably caused its route to change in the Cedar Canyons area, thus connecting it with the St. Joe River, which is in the Great Lakes Watershed. It is one of the few natural streams in the world that has naturally changed watersheds.

There were several Native American villages along the DeKalb County portion of Cedar Creek. The village nearest Auburn was on the east side of Cedar Creek where it crosses the line between Jackson Township and the original Butler Township line. The Potawatami Indians called Cedar Creek Mes-kwah-wah-se-pe.

Indiana became a territory in 1800 and a state in 1816. Many counties were soon created in southern Indiana along the Ohio and Wabash Rivers. Allen County was formed in 1824. Settlement of DeKalb County was delayed by the Great Black Swamp in northeastern Ohio. The swamp made travel from the east very difficult. Because land was available in central Indiana and was more easily accessible, there was no incentive to settle in DeKalb County.

The Fort Wayne Land office opened in 1823. Indian titles of what is now DeKalb County were extinguished by the Treaty of Carey Mission in 1828.

The original plat of Auburn is dated January 12, 1838, and Wesley Park and John B. Howe are shown as proprietors. The plat was lost for many years and was returned to DeKalb County by Howe in 1877, then recorded at DeKalb County in Plat Record 2, page 107.

By a deed dated May 23, 1836, Park deeded about half of the platted lots to Howe. This deed is recorded at LaGrange County in Deed Record 3, page 500. Park reserved all water and mill privileges, including the right to dam Cedar Creek for such purposes. This suggests that Wesley Park intended to establish a mill on Cedar Creek or perhaps sell a mill site. It is curious that the Park-to-Howe deed is dated about 20 months prior to the date of the plat. This may be explained by the fact that there may have been a prior drawing. The deed refers to Gum Street, which does not exist on the original plat.

CEDAR CREEK AT NINTH STREET. This view looks north toward Seventh Street. Before it was dredged and channeled, Cedar Creek was much wider and shallower.

In the meantime, land west of the original plat of Auburn had been platted by John and Ruth Spencer into Spencer’s Western Addition. By a deed dated January 20, 1838, many of the lots were conveyed to DeKalb County, conditional on Auburn being named the county seat.

The original plat contains four vertical tiers of lots and 20 horizontal tiers of lots. The east to west streets are numbered 1st through 12th and the streets are named Union (now 13th), Church (14th), Joseph (15th), Green (16th), Defiance (17th), Williams (18th), and Mary’s (19th).

Each block is divided into four lots. The numbering system begins in the southwest corner, goes north to lot 20, east to the next tier, then south to lot 40, continuing up and down to lot 308 in the southeast corner. The areas constituting the public square and graveyard are not numbered but designated as such.

The two tiers of lots on the east and west sides run vertically and all others run horizontally. All streets are 66 feet wide and most lots are 4 rods in breadth by 8.5 rods in length (a rod is equivalent to 5.5 yards, or 16.5 feet). The Public Square is 20 rods in length by 70 rods in breadth, and the graveyard is 17 rods in length by 8 rods in breadth.

Neither Wesley Park nor John B. Howe ever recorded how they selected the name Auburn. It is likely, however, that the name originated from the Oliver Goldsmith poem Deserted Village, which begins: Sweet Auburn: Loveliest Village of the plain . . .

One virgin tree survived in the town for many years. It was known as the Old Elm and was located in the middle of 13th Street between Main and Jackson Streets. It was the subject of many postcards. It survived into the early 1930s. A descendant of this huge tree is nearby in the middle of the block surrounded by South Main, West 13th, West 14th, and South Jackson Streets. It is one of the few hearty elms that survived Dutch Elm disease, which destroyed most of the majestic old elm trees in Auburn and much of the rest of the United States early in the twentieth century. It presently measures 16 feet in circumference at a point 5 feet above ground level, with a diameter of 5.09 feet.

2. MUD, NOTCHED EARS, AND NIGHT SOIL : THE PIONEER PERIOD (1836–1855)

Our parents found society in nature and repose in solitude, health in exertion and happiness in virtuous occupation. They doubtless felt at times a glow of generous pride in marking out a hitherto untrodden path, making the first clearings and building the first civilized tenements in the domain of nature and founding for themselves and their posterity a lasting and notable [town].

~W.H. McIntosh, Auburn Courier, June 4, 1891, on life in Auburn in 1848

What is now northern Indiana was the wild, wild West of the United States in this era. Virgin forests of huge trees among impenetrable swamps was what the pioneers found when they arrived in Auburn. About all the location had to offer was cheap lots, plenty of timber, and the murky, seldom navigated water of Cedar Creek.

Wesley Park and John B. Howe had prepared a plat, on paper at least, and the Indiana General Assembly had designated the phantom town as the seat of government for the newly formed County of DeKalb.

Why would anyone want to settle here? There was no town, there were no streets, there was no square, there was no government.

Most immigrants had escaped the horrors of feudal society in Europe where, despite generations of yeomen work, they still had nothing. They were willing to make great sacrifices for a fresh start, for a chance to own their own land, for hope for their children and grandchildren, and especially for the chance to determine their own destiny in a free society, albeit under very difficult economic and environmental conditions.

Many of these pilgrims journeying to DeKalb County had indentured themselves in New York or elsewhere for their passage from Europe. Some had previously settled in Ohio or further east; however, as those areas filled with settlers or the value of land doubled from $1.25 an acre to $2.50 an acre, they were ready to move further west. Some were children of immigrants following the tradition of their parents to move west.

Sometimes groups came from specific areas such as Stark County, Ohio. Frequently one family came to DeKalb County from a particular area and thereafter encouraged relatives or friends to move here as well.

The first settler in Auburn was surely Wesley Park, who built a double-log house on Lot 161 in the original plat, which is presently designated as 304 North Cedar Street.

If DeKalb County and Auburn had a father, it would be Wesley Park. While John B. Howe was shown as the co-platter of Auburn, his only role was to grease the General Assembly’s designation of Auburn as the county seat. If Park was father, his faithful wife Sophia was the town’s mother.

Wesley Park was everything to the new county and town. He nurtured their social and economic growth. His log house was the tavern and seat of government. He served in several offices in county government. He was the land agent and a public-spirited and patriotic man.

Out of the 306 platted lots, he had promised to donate 102 to the county to be sold to finance the establishment of county government and a basic infrastructure. Byron Bunnel was appointed agent of DeKalb County