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    Southern Farmers Market Cookbook
    Southern Farmers Market Cookbook
    Southern Farmers Market Cookbook
    Ebook246 pages2 hours

    Southern Farmers Market Cookbook

    By Holly Herrick

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    About this ebook

    SOUTHERN FARMERS MARKET COOKBOOK features 75 recipes and products grown in South Carolina, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Florida, Kentucky, and Tennessee, but many of the same foods can be purchased locally in most areas of the country.

    INCLUDES THESE MOUTHWATERING RECIPES: Butter Bean and Grape Tomato Bruschetta Fresh Sweet Onion and Corn Chowder Wild Honey-Glazed Carrots with Mint and Green Onions Braised Figs and Shallots in a Honey-Red Wine Sauce Wine-Poached Salmon with Cucumber Crudité Sauce Roasted Garlic Fresh Spaghetti with English Peas and Leeks in a Cream Sauce Warm Wild Cherry Carolina Gold Rice Pudding Blues-Busting Blueberry Ice Cream.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherGibbs Smith
    Release dateJun 1, 2009
    ISBN9781423607984
    Southern Farmers Market Cookbook
    Author

    Holly Herrick

    Author Holly Herrick loves to eat, prepare, and write about delicious food. A graduate of Boston College, she started chasing her food writing dreams in Paris, France, where she studied at Le Cordon Bleu and earned Le Grande Diplome in Cuisine and Pastry. A longtime restaurant critic for the Post and Courier, Charleston, South Carolina’s daily newspaper, Holly has also written many general food and travel features for the newspaper and several magazines, including Southern Living and Bon Appetit. A multi-awarded food writer, Holly is the author of Southern Farmers Market Cookbook and The Charleston Chef’s Table Cookbook: Extraordinary Recipes from the Heart of the Old South. She lives in Charleston. Visit Holly’s web site and blog at www.hollyherrick.com.

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      Book preview

      Southern Farmers Market Cookbook - Holly Herrick

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      Preface

      The seeds for this book were probably sown thirty-five years ago when I was a little girl growing up in a rural area west of Boston. There, I, my twin sister, and two older brothers lived, grew, played, and worked on thirty-two acres of open land, rolling pastures, and forest. My mother rather poetically referred to the place, aka Peach Hill Farm, as a gentleman’s farm.

      There were times, I assure you, that felt anything but gentlemanly on our little farm. For instance, cleaning out the chicken coop and collecting eggs on hot, putrid Saturday mornings (a weekly chore) or hauling what seemed like a ton of potatoes up a large hill from our vegetable garden to the house. I think my city friends felt a little sorry for us. As much as I loved my little rural paradise, sometimes I did, too.

      But in hindsight, many years later, I realize we were the lucky ones. There, we learned to value things that so many children—those born during the plasticine, packaged food decades that followed WWII and raged through the consumer-driven 1970s, 80s, and much of the 90s—did not. We learned that hard work eventually guaranteed easy play, a healthy appetite for fresh, simple food, and long nights of silent, deep sleep. We learned that if we did not waste, we would not want. We knew the aroma of a carrot that came fresh out of the ground—ground we had tilled and seeded with our own hands. We knew the simple pleasure of eating a boiled egg that had been gathered from the chicken coop that morning. The lessons and acquired tastes of those early years have endured. As I grew older and lived and worked in many different cities, from Boston to Paris, I cultivated them by shopping at and supporting farmers markets.

      In rural France, surrounded by daily farmers markets in neighboring villages, I learned to shop like the natives, buying only what I needed for a few days and returning to stock up on more freshness when my 3-foot-tall refrigerator was empty. When I moved to Charleston, South Carolina, in 2000, the tiny downtown Charleston Farmers Market was composed of a handful of vendors and situated in a narrow alley. Now, it’s situated on the grounds of a large, central park called Marion Square and swells with nearly one hundred vendors and twenty-one farmers touting an ever-increasing variety of wares. This colorful market—like most I visited across the Southeast while writing this book—boasts grass-fed beef, local seafood, locally prepared bread, cheese, certified organic produce, and sustainably grown produce.

      In this book, I attempt to explain why it is important, rewarding, nutritious, eco-friendly, communally supportive, fun, and, at times, spiritual, to shop at local farmers markets. It provides descriptions of the produce, farmers, and markets of eight core Southern states: South Carolina, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Florida, Kentucky, and Tennessee.

      On a 3,000-mile plus odyssey, I observed trends and met farmers at twenty-some select markets, big and small, independent and state-run. Everywhere, we savored fresh food and the changing vistas of the region, from the rise of the mountains of North Carolina and Kentucky and the bow of the rolling, leafy plains of Northern Alabama to the flatlands of the Mississippi Delta, Northern Florida, and South Carolina, and the Georgia Lowcountry.

      Though the players may change, the name of the farmers-market game remains the same: buy local, buy right. No matter where you live, it is my sincere hope that this book will help you to shop locally and seasonally. The timing and fruits of the seasons in Albany are far different from those in Atlanta, but the reasons for finding and buying them are exactly the same. So, in many ways, this book is intended to be a guide for better local and farmers market shopping that extends beyond any particular region and expands into a better national and international buying local perspective.

      I wish happy shopping to all fellow farmers-market fans and to those who may someday become one of them.

      Introduction: Southern Farmers Markets—Feeding the Frenzy

      Mercifully, the old adage is true. The more things change, the more they stay the same.

      It seems the whole world is at last reawakening to the simple, nutritional, and unselfish joys of drinking from the bountiful cup of sustainable, local farming. These people are, I think, a bit like me—that eight-year-old girl in central Massachusetts, so many years ago, who revered the farm-raised carrot but never really excelled at growing her own.

      Whole generations brought up on plastic-wrapped white bread and frozen dinners in a rushing, wasteful, impatient, consumer-driven culture are yearning to get back to the basics. They’re aching to get closer to the silent, timeless wisdom of the earth and to their very souls. They want to know their food—where it came from, who grew it, and how it was grown. Then, they want to go home and cook it, savor it, and sit back, feeling nurtured and happy they’ve done something good for themselves, the earth, and small farmers.

      I think [this desire] is because we’ve gotten away from [the source]. The whole chicken nuggets shaped like a dinosaur thing in the grocery store—it’s a turnoff. People have no connection with where their food is coming from and they want to be closer to it, says Suzanne Welander, communications director of Georgia Organics, a nonprofit organization for the state of Georgia that leads the state’s Buy Local for the State campaign.

      There is a real yearning for local, that’s for sure. Sixty percent of organic farming in this country is in California. That’s over 2,000 miles away, so by the time it gets here, it’s not very appealing. Surveys have shown that people want fresh and they want flavor. The second reason people want to buy local is to support local farmers, says Welander. [Farmers markets] are a place where food has a face and a place, and [they] allow you to connect with other people there. It’s enriching and nourishing and helps you maintain your relationship to the land. That’s lost in a grocery, she adds.

      This connection can be found and sustained by shopping regularly at local farmers markets. Maybe that’s why they’re growing so quickly in popularity. According to the USDA, in 2007 there were more than 4,500 farmers markets in the United States, nearly double the number of nationwide farmers markets that existed in 2000. Sales from these markets exceeded $1billion, most of which went back to the pockets of small farmers.

      In the South, where deeply entrenched economic-agrarian roots date back to the Colonial era and growing seasons are longer than most other parts of the country, small farming is big business. A study (Farms, Land in Farms and Livestock Operations, 2007 Summary) conducted by the National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) showed that the South (in this study defined as Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Kentucky, Virginia, Maryland, and the greater Washington, D.C. area) makes up 42.1 percent of the farms in the entire United States—the largest regional farming segment in the country. But geography dictates that farm sizes in the South (and Northeast) are smaller. This translates to smaller farms and more intimate farm production in these regions, explains NASS statistician Scott Shimmin.

      In a 2005 report, the NASS revealed that the South’s largest economic sales class was farmers earning between $1,000 and $99,999—in other words, small farmers. These are the same guys and gals who rely on selling their goods at farmers markets in order to survive. Yet the NASS found in its 2007 summary that the number of farms in this income range actually declined that year—a result of operations moving to larger sales classes by consolidation or expansion and strong commodity prices. This is another way of saying that large, mass-production farming is more profitable to a farmer’s bottom line. But that’s not to say it’s necessarily conducive to getting the freshest, least chemically manipulated food in your shopping basket or your body.

      Despite a variety of government, business, and grass root initiatives being implemented across the South to increase consumer awareness about the importance of buying local and urging consumers to support venues (including grocery stores and restaurants) that do so, farmers markets remain the economic bread and butter for Southern small farmers. The farmers market is absolutely essential for 90 percent, if not 95 percent of our farmers, says Sarah Blacklin, market manager of Carrboro Farmers Market in Carrboro, North Carolina. They really put their life into making sure this market has integrity. It basically has been the best-selling market for all of our vendors. This is where they make their weekly sales."

      As if small farmers’ dependence on these markets to make a living and supporting local farmers is not reason enough to shop at local farmers markets, let’s explore some of the other reasons, both tangible and intangible.

      Seven Tangible Reasons to Shop at Local Farmers Markets:

      1. By establishing a relationship with farmers market vendors, which is a natural progression as a regular shopper, you know where your food is coming from and how it was raised. This is comforting in an age when mass E. coli and/or salmonella outbreaks in commercially raised produce and tainted seafood from overseas is commonplace.

      2. Shopping local, defined by most Southern farmers markets as anything grown up to 100 miles away (in some markets, it’s 50 miles or less), reduces the need for cross-country shipping or storage, which helps save precious fuel and is kinder to the environment.

      3. Buying local helps preserve biodiversity with the increased use of heirloom varieties that, as one farmer told me, were designed to grow where they’re planted, not to grow elsewhere. This means there are more varieties of produce to choose from and also that growing them is less taxing on the environment. Because they’re not designed for early picking, long shipments or long shelf-life, they’re good to the earth and good for you. Also, because local farmers must react to seasonal weather, their fields are turned over more frequently, which promotes a more nutrient-rich soil that ultimately yields more nutritious food.

      4. You can enjoy fresher, more nutritious, and significantly less chemically treated food that’s usually harvested (when local) within twenty-four hours of purchase. In some cases, the food is certified organic. Local food is grown with minimal wax, growth hormones, pesticides, nitrogen, and storage-related chemicals. It tastes like food, not chemicals—a true breath of fresh air.

      5. Buying local keeps money local and helps support individual communities, thereby increasing the quality of community life.

      6. Buying local also helps maintain the rural integrity of neighboring lands and farms. Supporting local is supporting local farmland. Because many small growers practice certified organic or largely organic farming practices, synthetic compounds and preservatives are not present in their fields or in their foods. Even for the small

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