Emerging Varietal Wines of Australia

EMERGING VARIETAL WINES OF AUSTRALIA

By Darby Higgs

Smashwords Edition

Copyright Darby Higgs 2014

Earlier editions of this book were previously published in hard copy as

Emerging Varietal Wines of Australia (2004)

Vinodiversity the Book (2010)

This edition is completely revised with new descriptions of the grape varieties and updated lists of producers.

The information in this book has been compiled by the author over several years from various sources. Every care has been taken with the data but the author cannot accept responsibility for any loss or inconvenience resulting from reliance on information in this book.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Sponsors

How to Use This Book

What is a Grape Variety?

Why do Grape Varieties Matter

Grape Varieties used in Australia A to Z

Index of Wineries using Alternative Varieties in Australia

Index of Wineries by Region

More About Sponsors

About Darby Higgs

Bibliography

Bonuses

SPONSORS

The publication of this book has been greatly helped by the support of sponsors.

The Australian wine industry is made up of several large companies and a few thousand small and medium enterprises, many of them operated by a single individual or family. While these small enterprises are in competition with each other there is also a large amount of cooperation, especially in the more innovative edge where many of the new varieties featured in this book are being grown and developed.

The following wineries have sponsored this book.

919 Wines

Adelaide Winemakers

Andrew Peace

By Jingo

Cargo Road

Chalmers

Cirami

Crittenden

Hahndorf Hill

Jericho

Tscharke

Waywood

More details of the Sponsors can be found in the Appendix of this book

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

This book contains two main sections. The first is an alphabetical list of grape varieties used in Australia. Each entry contains a list of synonyms for that grape variety, notes about the origin and distribution of the variety and brief comments about the wines made from it. A list of Australian producers of that variety completes each entry. The global rank entry refers to that variety's worldwide popularity in terms of area planted. This information is extracted from a database maintained by the Austhor

The second section is an alphabetical list of wineries in Australia using alternative grape varieties. The list has been compiled from a number of sources including those noted in the bibliography. The list contains a number of wineries that are now out of business. They have been retained as some of their wines may still be in circulation. The Australian wine industry is a dynamic entity.

WHAT IS A GRAPE VARIETY

We all have an instinctive idea of what a wine grape variety is but it is worth exploring the concept more fully. As you explore wine you will also come across discussion of clones. Just what are clones, and how are they related to varieties?

The basic definition of a variety is that all of the individual vines in that variety are derived directly or indirectly from a single seedling. Plants of the new variety are propagated from cuttings or grafts from that original mother plant, or from other vines which derive from it. These plants are all genetically identical to each other for virtually all of their genes.

Grape seeds, like the seeds of other plants, arise from sexual reproduction. Therefore every variety has two parents, although some seeds arise from self-pollination. In the several millennia that grapes have been cultivated untold millions of grape seeds have become seedlings, but the vast majority are not cultivated. Seedlings are extremely variable in all sorts of characteristics. Only a tiny minority of grape vine seedlings ever develop into mature plants and the majority do not produce worthwhile grapes.

The majority of varieties have arisen by natural crossings where pollen is spread from a plant of one variety to a plant of another variety by wind or insects. This natural cross pollination was more common in the past when vineyards often consisted of several varieties interplanted, rather than the more orderly arrangement today, where vineyards consist of a single variety or several blocks each containing just one variety.

Over the past couple of centuries grape varieties have been deliberately bred. Often the breeding intention is to combine the good characteristics of two varieties into one new variety. For example the variety Pinotage was deliberately bred in South Africa by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. The first parent was chosen for its ability to produce fine wines, the second for its ability to thrive in a harsh viticultural environment. In this case the plan was successful, but may thousands of Pinot Noir X Cinsaut seedlings would have been tested and found wanting before the eventual mother Pinotage plant was identified.

Varieties and Clones

All of the plants of a grape variety are derived directly or indirectly via asexual reproduction from a single vine. So their genomes or genetic makeups are very similar, nearly identical in fact, but there are very small differences. Sometimes these differences can become very important. To find out how these differences occur we need to look at how a grape vine (or any other plant) grows.

A plant grows by forming new cells by cell division. The genes in each pair of new cells are copied from the mother cell, but the copying is not quite perfect. Tiny changes called mutations occur. So all of the cells of a plant don't have exactly the same genes. Most of the mutations are not noticed by the plant, let alone by the viticulturist. But some mutations can have major effects.

For example in a vineyard in Langhorne Creek a Cabernet Sauvignon plant started producing bunches of bronze rather than dark berries on one cane. A mutation had occurred so that all of the cells in that particular arm of the vine carried a different gene involved in the colouring of the grapes. When cuttings were taken to propagate new vines they all produced bronze berries and the new clone was called Malian. Later a further mutation produced a white clone called Shalastin. Cleggett Wines now make and market wines from these new clones. From the consumer's point of view they are distinct varieties, but strictly speaking they are clones of the same variety - Cabernet Sauvignon.

More often the mutations causing new clones to arise are more subtle than the change of berry colour. The new clone may be more vigorous in the vineyard, it may have disease resistance, or there may be slightly different compounds in the skin giving rise to better (or worse) aroma and flavours in the wine it produces. Older varieties and those that have been grown in a wide variety of viticultural environments tend to have many more recognised clones, and the clones are more diverse in their characteristics.

WHY DO GRAPE VARIETIES MATTER

There are thousands of different grape varieties used to make wine. About a thousand are used commercially at least somewhere in the world, of these about 100 are used fairly commonly while the top ten make up about 40% of the area planted to grapes worldwide.

Wine varieties differ from each other in a large number of characteristics which may or may not be of interest to the grape grower, the winemaker and finally the consumer.

Virtually every characteristic of the grape vine and the grape itself differs from variety to variety. Ampelographers - people skilled at vine identification - use factors such as the shape and size of shoots, leaves, bunches, individual grapes and seeds to distinguish between varieties.

Grape vine identification was always a slightly subjective science. Since the mid-1990s DNA profiling has been commonly used. It provides an objective method of identification, and as a bonus, it also reveals parent-offspring or sibling relationships between varieties. Thus quite elaborate pedigrees for grape varieties can be constructed. Many of these family trees are illustrated in Jancis Robinson's book Wine Grapes.

The most obvious difference between varieties is the skin colour of the grape. In simple terms varieties are either red or white (really dark purple or green). In fact there are gradations of colour - many shades of green through to quite golden yellow skin, various pinkish bronze colours often called gris or grey, through to various hues in the red, purple and black spectrum.

Perhaps the next most significant trait from the grape growers' point of view is the time to maturity. Some varieties ripen much earlier than others, by up to six or more weeks in some climates. Late maturing varieties, for example Grenache or Mourvedre will not ripen at all in cold wine growing regions. Early maturing varieties such as Pinot Noir and Riesling will ripen in hot climates but grapes that ripen in very hot conditions usually do not make good wine.

Over the centuries grape growers tended to select varieties which give high yields in their particular region, but over the past few decades quality has become more important than quantity.

Grape varieties also differ widely in their susceptibility or resistance to disease. This is especially important in areas where there is summer and autumn rain which creates conditions suitable for the spread of fungal diseases.

Until the middle of the twentieth century wine consumers knew little about grape varieties. Wine was marketed under the name of styles, regions and producers and often the name of merchants. In Australia for example wines were frequently labelled Moselle, Hock, White Burgundy, or Chablis for whites, and Claret, Burgundy and Hermitage for reds. These names were taken from European regions and were supposed to indicate some similarity to wines from these European vineyards. This was approximately true at best. The spread of international treaties protecting geographical names gradually pushed this system aside. We now have the system of naming wines after the variety or varieties that they are produced from.

Now the grape variety is prominently displayed on the label and consumers are much more aware of grape varieties. There are downsides to varietal labelling. Unfortunately the grape variety does not always tell the full story of the style of wine, for example if the wine is dry, off-dry or sweet, whether the wine is full bodied or not. Although this information is often mentioned on the back label there is little clue in the wine name. Less sophisticated wine drinkers are really more interested in the style of wine than the varietal composition.

A second problem is that varietal labelling leads many to think that straight varietal wines are somehow superior to blends.

GRAPE VARIETIES USED IN AUSTRALIA TO MAKE WINE

This is really a variety without a name; in fact it is an unidentified white grape variety, a relic from an historic vineyard planted in 1893. This vine's DNA is not known anywhere else in the world. Rimfire vineyards in Queensland are thus the only known producer.

Rimfire Vineyards (Queensland)

Synonyms: Aglianica, Aglianichella, Aglianichello, Aglianico Amaro, Aglianico del Vulture, Aglianico di Castellaneta, Aglianco di Puglia, Aglianico di Taurasi, Aglianico Femminile, Aglianico Mascolino, Aglianico nero, Aglianico Tringarulo, Aglianico Zerpoluso, Aglianico Zerpuloso, Aglianicone, Aglianicuccia, Agliano, Agliatica, Agliatico, Agnanico, Agnanico di Castellaneta, Cascavoglia, Cerasole, Ellanico, Ellenico, Fiano rosso, Fresella, Gagliano, Ghiandara, Ghianna, Ghiannara, Glianica, Gnanica, Gnanico, Granica, Olivella di S. Cosmo, Prie blanc, Ruopolo, Spriema, Tringarulo, Uva Catellaneta, Uva dei Cani, Uva di Castellaneta, and Uva near.

Global Rank: 69, Origin: Southern Italy especially in the regions of Basilicata and Campania. Small amounts are also grown in California. The theory that the name and origin of the grape are originally Greek is discounted by RHV. The variety's best expression is found in the Italian DOCGs of Taurasi in Campania and Aglianico of Vulture in Basilicata.

Aglianico is noted for its production of deeply coloured wines with high levels of tannins and acidity. This combination rightly suggests that the wines often need ageing.

Interest in the variety in Australia stems in part from its long ripening requirement as growers and winemakers are seeking varieties suitable for hot (and becoming hotter) wine regions.

Amadio (Adelaide Hills), Atze's Corner Wines (Barossa Valley), Beach Road (Langhorne Creek), Brown Brothers (King Valley), Chalmers (Heathcote), Di Lusso Estate (Mudgee), Grey Sands (Northern Tasmania), Hither and Yon (McLaren Vale), Karanto Vineyards (Langhorne Creek), Pepper Tree Wines (Orange), Pertaringa (McLaren Vale), Rimfire Vineyards (Darling Downs), Scott Winemaking (Adelaide Hills), Sutton Grange Winery (Bendigo), Westend Estate (Riverina)

Chalmers Aglianico from Heathcote

Synonyms Alvarinho, Albarin Blanco

Global Rank: 103, Origin: This variety originated in Northern Portugal or over the border in the Spanish region of Galicia. There are some plantings in California and now after a false start there is some Albarino in Australia.

Early in 2009 it was determined that the vines planted in Australia which were believed to be Albarino are in fact Savagnin. Wines produced from those vines are now correctly called Savagnin and are dealt with in the entry under that name in this chapter.

Cirami Estate (Riverland), Dell'uva Wines (Barossa Valley)

Cirami Estate in the Riverland will be releasing an Albarino soon

Synonyms: Moscatello Nero, Red Moscatel. Livatica, Leatico, and Agliano, Vernacchia di Pergola, Vernaccia Moscatella

Global Rank: 432, Origin: Tuscany and the South of Italy. Aleatico is also grown in Corsica and USA.

This variety produces pale red wines with a strong Muscat perfume and flavour.

Di Lusso Estate (Mudgee), Freeman Vineyards (Hilltops), Hollyclare (Hunter Valley), Rimfire Vineyards (Darling Downs), Riversands Winery (Queensland Zone), Tizzana Winery (South Coast Zone)

Synonyms: Alicante Henri Bouschet, Dalmatinka, Garnacha Tintorera, Sumo Tinto, Tintorea

Global Rank: 23, Origin: This variety was bred in France in the middle of the nineteenth century by Henri Bouschet. It is grown widely in Spain and France as well as in many other European countries, South America, and the USA.

Alicante Bouschet is popular because of its ability to yield highly. The flesh of the grape is coloured, unlike most red wine varieties which have colourless flesh. This means the wines are often deeply coloured. This last trait means that the variety is often used in blends to boost the colour of otherwise pale red wines.

This variety is used to make rose as well as red wines.

Di Lusso Estate (Mudgee), Freeman Vineyards (Hilltops), Hollyclare (Hunter Valley), Rimfire Vineyards (Darling Downs), Riversands Winery (Queensland Zone), Tizzana Winery (South Coast Zone)

Synonyms: Aligotay, Alligotay, Alligoté, Blanc de Troyes, Carcairone blanc, Carcarone, Carchierone, Chaudenet, Chaudenet Gras, Giboudot blanc, Griset blanc, Karkarone Blank, Melon de Jura, Muhranuli, Mukhranudi, Pistone, Plant de Trois, Plant de Trois Raisins, Plant gris, Purion blanc, Selon Molon, Selon Odart, Troyen blanc, Vert blanc.

Global Rank: 24, Origin: Burgundy. Also grown in Chablis, Switzerland, Eastern Europe, Canada and USA. It is used much more outside its region of origin.

This white wine variety produces wines with more acidity than its close relative Chardonnay. These sharp wines are often used to make an aperitif called Kir by the addition of Creme de Cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur.

Hickinbotham (Mornington Peninsula)

Synonyms: Albarello (in Spain)

Global Rank: 530, Origin: Douro or Dao in Portugal. Also grown elsewhere in Portugal, Galicia (Spain) and California.

This is a red grape variety traditionally used for port production in the Douro and for dry red production in the Dao region of Portugal. The delicate aromatics of the variety also make it suitable for rose production. It also makes lighter bodied red wines in blends, as it by Yarra Yering.

Yarra Yering (Yarra Valley)

Origin: A recently bred variety from Montpellier, France.

Only used in a couple of vineyards in France and in NSW.

Beelgara Estate (Riverina), Tempus Two (Hunter Valley)

Synonyms: Bianchetta, Bianchetta d'Alba, Bianchetta di Alba, Bianchetto, Bianchetto Albese, Bianchetto di Alba, Bianchetto di Verzuolo, and Nebbiolo bianco

Global Rank: 252, Origin: Piedmont region in North East Italy, especially in the Roero and Langhe areas. Some is grown in Liguria and Sardinia in Italy. Small amounts are grown in New Zealand, California and Oregon.

This white wine variety was close to extinction in the 1970s but has undergone a revival since then. Small amounts of Arneis are sometimes used with Nebbiolo in a similar way to Viognier is used with Shiraz. It is not related genetically to Nebbiolo but it is often interplanted with Nebbiolo in the Piedmont.

Arneis wines are typically softly aromatic with pear and honey flavours. They are often low in acid and thus not suited for extended ageing.

This variety has caught the attention of winemakers in Australia since it was introduced here a couple of decades ago. There is a steadily growing number of producers ensuring that the variety has a future as a significant white wine variety.

Amadio (Adelaide Hills), K1 by Geoff Hardy (Adelaide Hills), La Bise (Adelaide Hills), Ochota Barrels (Adelaide Hills), Parish Hill Wines (Adelaide Hills), Ten Miles East (Adelaide Hills), Bawley Vale Estate (Shoalhaven Coast), Beechtree Wines (McLaren Vale), Berrima Estate (Southern Highlands), Box Stallion (Mornington Peninsula), Brown Brothers (King Valley), Catherine Vale Vineyard (Hunter Valley), Chrismont (King Valley), Coombe Farm Vineyard (Yarra Valley), Crittenden at Dromana (Mornington Peninsula), Crooked River Wines (Shoalhaven Coast), Cupitt's