Bangkok, Thailand & Beyond

Hotels

Introduction

It only takes a few days in Thailand to understand why this incredible place is the number-one tourist destination in Southeast Asia. As you soak up the complex culture, sample the exquisite cuisine and explore mystic temples or unspoiled islands you cannot fail to experience a dramatic rise in your feel-good factor.

It happens to us every time. This is our seventh visit and the anticipation is as great now as it was the first time we arrived in Bangkok, the nation's capital. On this trip we plan to explore destinations away from the normal tourist areas. And there is added excitement since we are hoping to buy a home and spend even more time here.

Our first trip six years ago was the ideal combination for first-time visitors. We spent four days in the capital and then flew south to the beaches and resorts of Phuket Island. It was this sample that gave us an enormous appetite to see and learn more.

The anticipation of any adventure can be as appealing as the adventure itself. We get tremendous enjoyment from planning and thinking about what lies ahead and fortunately our expectations of a trip to Thailand have always been exceeded by the reality.

A couple of facts before we get started: The country covers 514,000 square kilometers - about twice the size of Wyoming. The population is 62 million, compared to 500,000 people who live in the state of Wyoming. The country is 95% Buddhist, which explains why you will see so many monks in saffron-colored robes. Something you don't see in Wyoming.

The Buddhism they practice here is Theravada Buddhism, an offspring of the ancient Dvarati Buddhism, and it plays a major role in all aspects of Thai life.

Facts & Figures

Exchange Rates

With exchange rates fluctuating every day it is difficult to give costs in currencies other than the Thai Baht. Throughout the guide we have given most of the prices in the currency of Thailand. In our price guides for hotels, however, we have priced accommodation in US dollars since many of the major hotels quote prices on their Websites in US dollars. In June 2005 one US dollar was worth 38 Baht, one euro bought 53 Baht and the UK pound 75 Baht. We find it best to create a simple worksheet giving the various currencies. Once you've established the formulas it is easy to update every few weeks. You may also check current rates at www.exchangerates.com.

Geography

The country has the Andaman Sea on one side and the Gulf of Thailand on the other. It borders on Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos and Malaysia. Border skirmishes are not unknown but normally only last a few days. Less than 4% of the population is Muslim; most of that group lives in the south of the country and there have been problems with demonstrations over neglect and lack of understanding by the Bangkok-based government. The problems are not new. There has been unrest for over 40 years. To date, the fighting has only affected tourism in the far south and the situation is being closely monitored by foreign governments.

Tourism

Modern-day tourism got a shot in the arm back in 1974 when part of the James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed on an island named Ko Ping Kan. The scene featured Roger Moore and Christopher Lee. Today, tourists swarm to be photographed on the spot where the two men faced each other. The island has been renamed James Bond Island and now boasts 52 souvenir shops. More recently, another island was used for the movie The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. Local conservationists are delighted that access to that island is very difficult and as a result tourist vessels stay away.

Thailand's Prime Minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, says Thailand should attract 20 million foreign tourists a year to Thailand by 2008. To achieve this he is preparing to spend 40 billion Baht ($1 billion) on promotion.

Climate

If you don't like it hot you have made the wrong decision by coming this far from home. Snow gear is as much use here as an ashtray on a Harley Davidson. Without doubt, the best time to visit the resorts of southern Thailand is between November and March - and this is the most expensive time too - but do not be put off by the rainy season. Climate does vary from north to south (you will find more details about local climate in the destination chapters). Obviously nobody wants to suffer through a typhoon, and fortunately typhoons are very much a rarity in Thailand, but we have spent weeks when it has rained a little every day. Most times we were on the beach and just enjoyed the natural shower. Minutes later we dried off in the sun.

Prices

Where else in the world can two people dine well and walk away with change from $5? And low prices abound everywhere. Obviously, the copies of brand-name products are extremely inexpensive. But everywhere you will find excellent value for money. We do not know of another country that has so many truly luxurious hotels and, here, the finest hotels with their impressive service cost a fraction of what you would pay in other countries. The business hotels in Bangkok and throughout the kingdom are second to none and we know of nowhere in the US or Europe that has the quality of tourist resorts and spas that you will find here. You'll find that the word wellness has crept into the dictionary here. Not to content to tack the words and spa onto their names, the resorts now have wellness centers and wellness menus.

Public Holidays

Holidays listed without dates are Theravada Buddhist holidays; the date changes from year to year based on the lunar calendar.

January 1 New Year's Day (Wan Khun Pee Mai)

February Makha Bucha

April 6 Chakri Memorial Day

April 13-15 Thai New Year (Songkran)

May Visakha Bucha

May 1 Labor Day (bank holiday only)

May 5 Coronation Day

July Khao Phansa

August 12 Mothers' Day/Queen's Birthday (Wan Mae)

October 23 Chulalongkorn Day (Wan Piyamharat)

December 5 Fathers' Day/King's Birthday (Wan Pot)

December 10 Constitution Day

December 31 New Year's Eve (Wan Sin Pee)

Practicalities

Visas & Immigration Laws

On arrival you will be granted a visa for 30 days. On one trip we planned to stay longer and we explained that to the immigration officer. He smiled and said yes, as is the custom for those not speaking much English, and we assumed all was well. It was not. On departure we were fined for each day we had stayed over the one-month limit. We were not alone; there was a line of offenders waiting when we went to pay for our error. And to aid those, like us, who had let their supply of Thai Baht dwindle, there was an ATM close by. On subsequent extended stays we resolved the problem by making a visit to the local immigration office and having additional time granted. You can also leave the country and re-enter, whereupon you'll get an additional 30-day visa; on one occasion we made a trip to Singapore, which gave us an extension. If you are planning a longer-than-30-day visit it is worth checking with a Thai embassy for details about various visas that are available. The regulations do change.

The Embassies of Thailand

In the US

Royal Thai Embassy, 1024 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20007, tel. 202-944-3600.

Royal Thai Consulate General, 35 East Wacker Drive, Suite 1834, Chicago, IL 60601, tel. 312-236-2447.

Royal Thai Consulate General, 801 North LaBrea Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038, tel. 213-937-1894.

Royal Thai Consulate General, 351 East 52nd Street, New York, NY 10022, tel. 212-754-1770.

In Canada

Royal Thai Embassy, 180 Island Park Drive, Ottawa, ON K1Y 0A2, tel. 613-722-4444.

Royal Thai Consulate, Campus Tower Building, 8625-112 Street, Edmonton, AB T6G 1K8, tel. 403-432-1387.

Royal Thai Consulate, 1155 René-Levesque West, Suite 2500, Montreal, QC H3B 2K4, tel. 514-871-1271.

Royal Thai Consulate, Scotia Plaza, 40 King Street, West, 44th Floor, Toronto, ON M5H 3Y4, tel. 416-367-6750.

Royal Thai Consulate, 736 Granville Street, Suite 106, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1G3, tel. 604-687-4434.

In the United Kingdom

Royal Thai Embassy, 1-3 Yorkshire House, Grosvenor Crescent, London. SWIX7EBP, tel. (0171) 259 5051, fax (0171) 235 9808.

In Europe & Elsewhere

The following listings are locations of the Royal Thai Embassy:

Australia, 111 Empire Circuit Yarralumla, A.C.T., 2600, Canberra, tel. (06) 273 1149, fax (06) 273 1518.

Belgium, 2 Square du Val de la Cambre, Brussels, tel. (322) 640 6810, fax (322) 648 3066.

Denmark, Norgesmindevej 18, 2900 Hellerup Copenhagen, tel. (45) 3962-5010, fax (45) 3962-5059.

France, 12 Rue Lord Byron 75008, Paris, tel. (0147) 046892, fax (0147) 556713.

Germany, Ubierstasse 65, 53173 Bonn, tel. (49) 228 956 860, fax (49) 228 363 702.

Italy, Via Nomentana, 132, 00162 Rome, tel. (396) 8620 4381, fax (396) 8620 8399.

The Netherlands, Buitenrustweg, 2517 KD, The Hague, tel. (3170) 345 0632, fax (3170) 345 1929.

New Zealand, 2 Cook Street, Karori, POBox 17226, Wellington, tel. (644) 476 8618, fax (644) 476 3677.

Norway, Munkedamsveien 59B, 0270 Oslo, tel. (22) 832 517, fax (22) 830 384.

Portugal, Rua de Alcolena, 12, Restelo, 1400 Lisbon, tel. (3511) 301 4848, fax (3511) 301 8181.

South Africa, 840 Church Street, Eastwood, Areadia 0083, Pretoria, tel. (2712) 342 5470, fax (2712) 342 4805.

Spain, Joquin Costa 29, 28002 Madrid, tel. (34) 91563 2903, fax (34) 91564 0033.

Sweden, Eloragatan3, 11431, Stockholm, Box 26220 100 40, tel. (46-08) 791 7340, fax (46-08) 791 7351.

Switzerland, Srd Fl., 60 Eigerstrasse (5th Fl.), 3007 Bern, tel. (4131) 372 2281, fax (4131) 372 0757.

Safety & Crime Prevention

Crime can be a problem, but a little forward-thinking can help avoid difficulties during your trip. Here are some suggestions:

Beware of unauthorized people who offer their services as guides.

Use common sense when it comes to personal safety. Walking alone through quiet or deserted areas is not recommended. Be sure that all your valuables - passports, money, jewelry, and airline tickets - are properly protected. Most hotel rooms have personal safes; if yours does not, the hotel will most likely have a safe at reception. The tourist police (see below) do a superb job and are there to assist you. In each destination chapter we will give a phone number where they can be contacted.

Do not get involved with drugs. Penalties for drug offences are very severe in Thailand, and range from life imprisonment to death. Checks are made when you enter and leave the country that you are not carrying illegal drugs. If you are carrying legitimate medicines be sure they are correctly identified.

Tourist Police

Should a problem arise, the government, through the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), has bi-lingual tourist police stationed throughout the country. Their sole job is to assist tourists who run into problems. They have a 24-hour emergency number - simply dial 1155 - or look them up at www.tourist.police.go.th.

Medical Attention

We have been very impressed with medical care in Thailand. Should you become ill while visiting you will find excellent facilities in all the major cities and towns. We have found charges to be extremely low and the cost of prescription drugs significantly lower than in the US. Doctors we have visited all spoke impeccable English and were extremely efficient. Many people come to Thailand for medical care, be it a simple health check-up or major surgery. We have devoted a chapter to The Medical Vacation.

Money

This is one thing we all need while visiting Thailand. There are exchange bureaus in all the major towns, which readily change US dollars, pounds and euros. Most will cash travelers' checks and some will give advances on major US credit cards. We have found it better to use ATMs, or cash machines, which are everywhere. Most major stores and hotels accept credit cards but you will not be able to use them at the street markets or smaller restaurants. We have found that, when using a US credit card, the exchange rate applied when the charge reached the US was extremely good. The same holds true for the rate we have obtained by using cash/ATM machines.

Telephone Service

Keeping in touch with home or the rest of the world is not a problem today. The telephone system in major towns is greatly improved and you can make direct calls to the rest of the world from most hotel rooms. In September of 2004 the Communications Authority of Thailand (CAT) cut its rates to six Baht a minute for international calls to 30 countries including the US, the UK, Canada, Australia and South Africa. To take advantage of the low rates callers have to purchase a CAT PhoneNet card. These are available at some supermarkets and convenience stores. We didn't keep track of the time we spent using these cards. The first one we bought for 500 Baht allowed us to make us numerous calls to the US, UK and Spain. It was certainly a lot cheaper than using international direct dialing (IDD) from hotels.

The Royal Family

There are two delicate subjects that visitors to Thailand should be aware of - the Royal family and religion. The Thai people hold a deep reverence for the King and Queen and their children, and they expect visitors to show respect. King Bhumibol is an elderly man in his late 70s but he still plays a major role in Thai life. His lengthy unscripted speeches are listened to by almost everyone, and his word is important. He keeps a watchful eye on national affairs and is often critical of the prime minister and the government. In his 77th-birthday speech he covered a range of topics, from the dangers of smoking to his concern for young people's music and the damage it can cause to their hearing. His greatest attribute is that, despite his royal position, he is very much a man of the people and enjoys simple pleasures. After this latest speech he drove himself home in a Honda Civic. His birthday, on December 5, is celebrated as a national holiday. We have attended celebrations for his birthday; at exactly 7:27pm the nation maintains a one-minute silence in tribute to him, and many people do this while holding an illuminated candle.

Religion

If you did not see monks and temples within a couple of hours of your arrival in Thailand, something went amiss - either you got stuck in a lengthy line at the airport immigration desk or you wore blinkers on the ride to the hotel.

Monk praying at a temple

Monks and temples abound in this land of silk, smiles and saffron-colored robes. At any one time there are over a quarter of a million monks spread through the country. There are not so many temples, something you might doubt after a few days of sightseeing. In fact the nation has a total of 30,678 temples and monasteries. In addition to the monks, there are 90,000 novices and over 120,000 temple boys, who are usually students from poorer homes who help at temples by cleaning and running errands in return for free board and lodging.

Who are the monks and where do they come from? Any male in Thailand can become a monk. Kings have been monks, so have paupers and pimps. The wealthy, the wise, scholars and even criminals have entered into the temple with one intention: to better understand the teachings of Buddha and to improve not only their own lives but the lives of others within the community. And there are some temples that will accept farangs into their midst.

Buddhism and Society

All the kings of Thailand have been Buddhist - and have to be by law. Most have spent periods as monks. All the temples and the land they stand on are owned by the state. Government officials are encouraged to spend up to four months at some point in their careers in a monastery. They receive full pay during their absence from normal work.

The monks and temples play a major role in isolated rural areas, where the temple is very much the focal point for education, medication, meditation and even the postal service. As a result many of the rural people contribute a bigger percentage of their small incomes to their local temple than do city dwellers, where there are other resources, and religion is not as strong as it was. Nonetheless, there is still a tradition of earning merit and the fact that so many men return to the temples for short periods, particularly during the Buddhist Lent period, proves that Buddhism, now over 2,500 years old, is thriving and still playing a major part of life in Thailand.

•  The Life Of A Monk

Years ago most young men joined a temple and became a monk for a period of time. It was not compulsory but something that most young men did as part of growing up. In recent years the numbers have dwindled due in no small part to the social and cultural changes that have occurred in the kingdom. Much of the drop can be blamed on the westernization of the country. Financial and family commitments have changed so it is now not so easy as it was for a man to give up everything and devote time, no matter how short, to the non-paying community service.

The number of men becoming monks is still as high as 60% of the male population, which is incredible by Western standards where, in most modern countries, involvement with the church is dwindling.

A man entering the temple knows he has nothing to gain financially but everything to lose. The first thing that goes is his hair. The chief monk or abbot (jao-awaht) makes a symbolic gesture by removing the first locks, and then another monk totally shaves the head and eyebrows. The event normally takes place at the temple nearest the man's home. It is generally preceded by a party where the family celebrates the man's decision to enter the temple. Once inaugurated into the temple the man's life becomes a strict regime of study and prayer. His day will begin at 4am with a morning bath and then private prayers. When the sun appears the monks leave in groups to tour the community in search of food.

AUTHOR'S NOTE:In Western eyes this gathering of alms would be considered begging but not so in Buddhist Thailand. It is considered an honor to give, and one makes merit, an important part of Buddhism, by giving to the monks.

The monks' alms bowls are typically made out of strips of steel with brass tops. All the hand-made ones are produced in Bangkok in an area known as Baan Baat, a run-down neighborhood between Chinatown and the Golden Mount. A handful of families have produced these items for generations and they make unusual souvenirs. You'll find them on sale at monk supply stores, which are in every town and village in Thailand. You can expect to pay 1,500 Baht for a good-quality bowl.

After breakfast at the temple the monks enter the main sanctuary at 8am for morning prayers, and new arrivals receive special instruction from the abbot before taking their main meal of the day. This has to be completed before noon since monks are not allowed to eat from noon until breakfast the following day.

The afternoons are normally spent around the community before returning to the temple for a second bath at 5pm. The rest of the day is spent on religious instruction before the monks retire. And that is the routine that starts again the next morning with the 4am bell.

•  Visiting the Temples

Visitors to religious sites are expected to dress modestly. Always wear a top with sleeves. It is acceptable to wear shoes when walking around the compound of a Buddhist temple, but not inside the chapel where the principal Buddha image is kept. Shorts or miniskirts should not be worn in the temple. Every image of Buddha is regarded as a sacred object. Never climb onto one to take a photograph or do anything that might indicate a lack of respect. Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by a woman, or to accept anything from the hand of one. If a woman has to give anything to a monk, she first hands it to a man, who then presents it.

To avoid embarrassment, here are some other tips: Thais regard the head as the highest part of the body, literally and figuratively. Avoid touching people on the head and try not to point your feet at people or an object. It is considered very rude. Shoes should be removed when entering a private Thai home. Public displays of affection between men and women