Oregon & Washington: A Guide to the State & National Parks

Oregon & Washington: A Guide to the State & National Parks

Barbara Sinotte

Oregon

Introduction

Oregon Parks

North Coast

Central Coast

South Coast

Willamette Valley

Columbia Gorge

Eastern Oregon

Central Oregon

Southern Oregon

Washington

Introduction

Washington State Parks

A Word About Hiking . . .

Hiking is by far the most popular activity in state and national parks. Most of the hiking involves following clearly marked trails. Off-trail travel (commonly referred to as bushwhacking) is practiced by the more adventurous hikers - especially in the clearer, less populated areas of the parks.

Trails in many state parks have been rated for a combination of distance and degree of difficulty. If you are not sure which trails are appropriate for you and your family, talk to a park ranger. If you do not exercise regularly, start on beginner trails and increase your distances gradually. Trail maps are usually available either at the trail or at the ranger station.

While trail markings vary widely, there are a few common markings that everyone should be familiar with. Periodic paint blazes on trees or rocks are clearly the most popular form of trail markings. Plastic markers are often nailed to trees or metal signs are posted on wooden posts. Where there are no trees, trails may be marked with piles of rocks.

Watch for trail markers and make a habit of looking for them - for your own safety and the safety of those hiking with you. It does not take away from the enjoyment of hiking and will soon become just another natural thing to do.

Be careful if you attempt bushwhacking. Make your first attempts in open areas with limited undergrowth, such as a desert area where the terrain is a little easier to tackle. Bushwhacking through areas of dense vegetation is for more experienced hikers and should only be attempted with map, water and compass in hand.

Whether you are bushwhacking or carefully following trails, set a pace that will make the experience enjoyable for you. You are not in a race and can better take in the surroundings if you are walking at a comfortable pace. Remember that attempting to go too far can ruin all the fun and tire you out before you are halfway through with your hike. Stumbling or tripping is a clear sign that you may indeed need to slow down.

Remember to take frequent rest stops. Don’t wait for fatigue to force you to slow down. A good rule of thumb is to take a 10- to 15-minute stop every hour or so. After awhile you will know what is best for you.

Don’t try to speed over the rough areas of a trail. Watch out for tree roots and old logs that may be damp. Alternate footings should be sought. When you are uncertain as to your footing it is wise to crouch just a bit, lowering your center of gravity to reduce the likelihood of falling. Steep trails have caused many hikers to lose their balance and take a tumble. Descending tends to be more hazardous than ascending and requires a little more attention. Hold on to small trees or rocks. When in doubt, sit and ease your way down on your rear.

When hiking with a family, it is important to choose a trail that is comfortable for everyone. Younger children should be introduced to hiking with short walks. It is more fun and educational if they can be involved in planning the hike.

Checklist For A Day Hike

2 pairs of hiking socks

Liner socks

Long pants

Long-sleeved shirt

Shell parka or windbreaker

Toilet paper

Plastic litter bag

Trail guidebook

First-aid kit

Pocket knife

Hiking boots

Day pack

Water bottle

Waterproof poncho

Extra sweater

Snack foods

Map

Compass

Flashlight

Matches

In summer weather add:

T-shirt

Shorts

Extra water

Bug repellent

Sunscreen or lotion

Sun hat

In cold weather add:

Additional layers

Cap or hat

Thermal underwear

Hiking Safety

Hike with a friend.

Take plenty of drinking water.

Let someone at the camp or at home know where you are going and when you plan on returning.

Don’t take shortcuts on switchback trails.

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this book is correct, but the publisher and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or any potential problem caused by information in this guide, even if these are a result of negligence, accident or any other cause.

Oregon

Introduction

Within Oregon are a multitude of special places Oregonians have set aside to preserve outstanding examples of both history and natural beauty. An uncommon variety of outdoor experiences are available here, with parks organized into eight different areas of the state: North Coast, Central Coast, South Coast, Willamette Valley, Columbia Gorge, Eastern Oregon, Central Oregon, and Southern Oregon. Throughout the state, visitors can experience a wide range of activities, such as beaches, educational exhibits, and scenic vistas ideal for whale watching, wildlife observation, and storm watching.

Nearly 80 of Oregon’s state parks offer access to the ocean shore, a 360-mile state recreation area. Many operate year-round campgrounds, and several have campsites designed for hikers and bicyclists. The North Coast is a scenic shoreline of dense forests and broad beaches, with spots once frequented by the Lewis and Clark expedition. The least populated stretch is the South Coast, which features some of the US mainland’s most ruggedly beautiful seascapes, as well as some of its best fishing. The Central Coast contains the greatest concentration of resort communities; here, charter fishing trips and sightseeing cruises are available.

Within a short distance of the state’s major cities are lakes, rivers, waterfalls, wooded refuges and historic sites. The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area – located just minutes from Portland – preserves a wonderland of water and vegetation. State parks along the cliffs and on the river help visitors enjoy the area’s recreational and scenic wealth. Several parks provide the area’s best river access for windsurfers. The Willamette Valley contains most of the state’s largest and oldest communities. Covered bridges and wineries are popular tourist attractions, with historic buildings and museums also open in almost every city. Farther south is the great Rogue River; there’s also Crater Lake, the nation’s deepest such body of water. State parks offer boaters and anglers access to the upper and central sections of the Rogue River.

High deserts, deep canyons and wild rivers define the vast open land of central and eastern Oregon. Central Oregon is a year-round recreation area characterized by alpine lakes, whitewater rivers, canyon reservoirs and geological wonders. Eastern Oregon’s wide open spaces are filled with pine-forested mountains, deep canyons and spectacular rock formations. The natural beauty is breathtaking and, with Oregon’s vast and varied resources, there is something for everyone to enjoy!

General Information

Campsite Information and Reservations

A new central facility, Reservations Northwest, handles reservations for many campgrounds in both Washington and Oregon. They have a nationwide toll-free number. Thirteen of Oregon’s parks are currently on this reservation system. Contact:

Reservations Northwest

PO Box 500

Portland, OR 97207

ph. (800) 452-5687

The following parks may also be contacted directly for reservations:

Fort Stevens

Hammond, OR 97121

ph. (503) 861-1671

Devil’s Lake

1452 NE 6th Street

Lincoln City, OR 97367

ph. (503) 994-2002

South Beach

5580 South Coast Highway

South Beach, OR 97366

ph. (503) 867-4715

Harris Beach

1655 Highway 101

Brookings, OR 97415

ph. (503) 469-2021

Detroit Lake

PO Box 549

Detroit, OR 97342

ph. (503) 854-3346

The Cove Palisades

Route 1, Box 60 CP

Culver, OR 97734

ph. (503) 546-3412

Cape Lookout

13000 Whiskey Creek Road W.

Tillamook, OR 97141

ph. (503) 842-4981

Beverly Beach

198 NE 123rd Street

Newport, OR 97365

ph. (503) 265-9278

Beachside

PO Box 693

Waldport, OR 97394

ph. (503) 563-3220

Jessie M. Honeyman State Park

84505 Highway 101 South

Florence, OR 97439

ph. (503) 997-3641

Prineville Reservoir

916777 Parkland Drive

Prineville, OR 97754

ph. (503) 447-4363

Wallowa Lake

72214 Marina Lane

Joseph, OR 97846

ph. (503) 432-4185

Sunset Bay

10965 Cape Arago Highway

Coos Bay, OR 97420

ph. (503) 888-4902

In addition to the 3,100 campsites at the 13 state parks listed above, there are 2,600 campsites at 37 other state parks that are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

For additional information on Oregon’s parks, contact:

Oregon Parks & Recreation Department (OPRD)

1115 Commercial Street, NE

Salem, OR 97310-1001

ph. (503) 378-6305

Camping Fees

Camping fees are based on services, with basic rates between $9 and $13. The highest daily fee is $17-$20 for a full hookup (electric, water and sewer); $15-16 is the range for a tent. A two-tiered system is now used, with higher daily fees at busier parks.

Hiker/Biker Camps

Special campsites designed for hikers and bicyclists are available at many campgrounds. Most sites include a picnic table and fire ring, with water nearby. Many are in a common area shared by other hikers and bikers. Although hiker/biker areas are normally separated from the main campground, all park facilities – such as restrooms and showers – are available.

These types of campsites are available at Beverly Beach, Bullards Beach, Cape Blanco, Cape Lookout, Carl G. Washburne, Clyde Holliday, Devil’s Lake, Ecola, Fort Stevens, Harris Beach, Humbug Mountain, Jessie Honeyman, Loeb, Nehalem, Ochoco Lake, Oswald West, Saddle Mountain, Smith Rock, South Beach, Tumalo, Unity Lake and William M. Tugman state parks.

Horse Camps

Campsites accommodating horseback riders are provided at Bullards Beach State Park, Cape Blanco State Park, Nehalem Bay State Park, Silver Falls in the Willamette Valley and Emigrant Springs, east of Pendleton. These less-developed sites enable users to camp adjacent to corrals and/or hitching rails. Detailed information and reservation forms are available from park staff.

Group Camping

Special tent camping areas designed to accommodate 25 people are available at many state parks and campgrounds. These areas are popular for church outings, school groups and family reunions.

Groups may also reserve individual campsites in the same area at one of the 13 parks mentioned above between Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends. Group use at other locations may also be possible through a special request to the park manager.

Group camping is available at the following parks: Beverly Beach, Cape Lookout, Champoeg, Emigrant Springs, Farewell Bend, Fort Stevens, Jessie M. Honeyman, Joseph P. Stewart, Milo McIver, Silver Falls, Cove Palisades, Tumalo, Valley of the Rogue, and Wallowa Lake.

Year-Round Camping

The fun of camping here never ends. Sixteen parks on Oregon’s all-weather coast and four on its major inland rivers contain campgrounds that remain open every day of the year. In addition, the day-use areas in almost all state parks are open year-round.

Outdoor recreational features include both freshwater and saltwater fishing, as well as hiking, wildlife viewing and sightseeing. On the coast, November through March is considered prime whale watching time.

The state parks with year-round campgrounds are: Beachside, Beverly Beach, Bullards Beach, Cape Lookout, Carl Washburne, Champoeg, Cove Palisades, Deschutes, Devil’s Lake, Farewell Bend, Fort Stevens, Harris Beach, Humbug Mountain, Jessie Honeyman, Loeb, Nehalem Bay, Ochoco Lake, South Beach, Sunset Bay and Valley of the Rogue.

Yurt Camping

Beginning in 1994, a new, alternative form of camping became available at eight Oregon state coastal parks. It’s based upon the use of a YURT, or Year-round Universal Recreational Tent. This is a circular, domed tent with a plywood floor, structural wall support, electricity and a clear, plexiglass skylight. It is designed to both withstand high winds and retain heat efficiently in the winter.

YURTs cost $25 per night for five people, with up to three additional people allowed at $5 each per night. Pets, cooking and smoking are not allowed inside YURTs.

This new form of camping is available at Fort Stevens, Nehalem Bay, Cape Lookout, Beverly Beach, South Beach, Jessie Honeyman, Beach and Harris Beach.

Oregon Parks

North Coast

Visitors to North Coast state parks will find plenty of history, hiking trails, and diverse natural areas. The north coast features the longest continuous section of the Oregon Coast Trail, a 64-mile route from the Columbia River to Tillamook Bay.

Cape Kiwanda State Park

Location: Off US 101 and Three Capes Scenic Loop, 1 mile north of Pacific City.

The beach on the southern side of Cape Kiwanda is where local fishermen and women launch their dories into the ocean. To avoid capsizing, they often push each other and quickly jump into the boat, maneuvering it out to sea. This has been a tradition since the 1920s, when commercial fishermen took them out to sea because gill-netting was banned on the Nestucca River. The fleet’s late afternoon return is met by people waiting to purchase salmon and tuna direct. The fish here are indeed plentiful; the river is a famous spawning site for salmon. Charter boats are available for ocean fishing excursions. And though there have been fewer fish and more restrictions lately, many people still fish at Cape Kiwanda.

The Pacific City Dory Derby is held here every July. It is very exciting to watch these craft circle Haystack Rock and return with their catch.

Photographers flock to Cape Kiwanda to capture the beauty of its wave-sculptured cliffs, accessed at the north end of the beach. Opportunities also abound to shoot Haystock Rock, the dory boats and the cape itself. In addition, the area is a known resting spot for indigenous birds like the brown pelican.

Not surprisingly, this is a popular location for hang-gliding – even if you’re a beginner (many lessons are given here). Winds are deflected up the cliff, and the coast often provides good lifts.

The park extends north along a strip of beach to Sand Lake; between there and Cape Kiwanda lies the Oregon Coast Trail. From there, it heads over the dune and returns to the road for awhile.

Facilities: This day-use facility covers 185 acres and is open year-round; restrooms are available. Other attractions here include hiking, wildlife viewing, and scouting for tidepools.

For further information, contact: Tillamook Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, 2505 Highway 101 North, Suite A, Tillamook, OR 97141, ph. (503) 842-5501.

Cape Lookout State Park

Location: Off US 101, 12 miles southwest of Tillamook.

Cape Lookout is a fine example of coastal headlands preserved by the state parks system. It also contains ancient forest. To appreciate this landmark, simply glance out your car window on the way up to the cape. For a closer look, take a two-mile walk out to its tip. Cape Lookout was named by sea captain John Meares, who originally intended the name for what is now Cape Meares (charts put it in the wrong place, and the name stuck.)

This vast, 2,014-acre park extends to the tip of the Netarts sand spit, which encloses Netarts Bay. Beach grass was planted over several years to stabilize the dunes.

The park’s campground facilities are located along the ocean, with oceanfront sites. During stormy weather, the latter are closed off, and campers encouraged to head for more protected spots in the woods. There are picnic tables with good views of the ocean at the point where Jackson creek flows out to the sea. (Additional picnic tables may be found north of the campground.) Wildlife is plentiful here; it is easy to spot raccoons, deer and squirrels.

For an in-depth examination of this park’s coastal rain forest, try hiking on the nature trail between the campground and hiker/biker camp. Cape Lookout averages over 100 inches of rain per year, and native plants flourish. These include ferns, spruce trees and western red cedar trees – all of which can be spotted while hiking. (It is worth noting that the North Coast Indians once used these same local trees to build canoes and homes.)

The Oregon Coast Trail also passes through this park. Entering from the north along the road, it borders the coast south of the campground and climbs 2½ miles through the forest to the top of the 800-foot cape summit. It emerges at the parking area, for those who hike to the tip of the cape. The trails are confusing here, with the south trail going to the tip of Cape Lookout and the north trail coming from the campground. Also perplexing is a trail branching off to the south, just a short distance away. This is actually a continuation of the Oregon Coast Trail, which descends to the beach two miles later, before proceeding to Sand Lake.

The most popular hiking trail is the Cape Lookout trail, marked only by a sign that says Wildlife Viewing Area. Though a year-round trail, caution must be taken while negotiating it in the winter – sections can become muddy and the drop-off is vertical.

To the south, you can view the huge sand dune of Cape Kiwanda. This is an excellent area for wildlife viewing. With 154 species of birds identified here, it’s a birdwatcher’s paradise. It’s also an official whale watch site; on a clear day in April, multitudes of whale watchers gather with their binoculars.

Facilities: Special facilities at this park include a meeting hall and rustic camper cabins.

For further information, contact: Park Manager, Cape Lookout State Park, 13000 Whiskey Creek Road, West Tillamook, OR 97141, ph. (503) 842-4981.

Cape Meares State Park

Location: Off US 101, 10 miles west of Tillamook.

Cape Meares State Park boasts a spectacular view of the ocean, as well as picnic tables, a lighthouse and an oddly contorted tree just a short distance away from the parking lot. All of these elements combine to make it the most user-friendly site on the Three Capes Loop. One of the park’s boundaries is the 138-acre mainland Cape Meares National Wildlife Refuge, which is jointly managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Wildlife viewing is a popular diversion here, with many people also coming to hike the trails.

The lighthouse, built in 1890, shone a beacon of alternating red and white lights until its restoration in 1963, when it was replaced by an automatic light. The gift shop and lighthouse (replete with spiral staircase) are open from May through September, and during Christmas.

Named after John Meares, an 18th-century English naval officer and explorer, this cape was originally called Cape Lookout. After being misplaced on various maps, it needed another name; hence, Cape Meares.

There are varied hiking options here, with a loop trail descending to the lighthouse via a paved path at the tip of the headland. A spur going a few steps north affords a view of a steep-walled, rocky cove with waterfalls. The trail that returns to the parking area runs along the southern edge of the headland. Benches en route allow one to rest while enjoying a seascape that includes the town of Oceanside and the Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge. This is one of Oregon’s largest sea bird colonies, home to common murres, tufted puffins, cormorants and gulls.

The eastern end of Tillamook Bay offers good paddling and wildlife viewing. You’ll see hang-gliders over the Cape, as nearby Maxwell Mountain affords great opportunities to lift off from 500 feet.

Facilities: Comprised of 233 acres, this day-use park is open year-round. Unique features include the Octopus Tree, an unusual ancient Sitka Spruce, and a two-mile segment of the Oregon Coast Trail.

For further information, contact: Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, 1115 Commercial Street NE, Salem, OR 97310-1001, ph. (503) 378-6305.

Ecola State Park

Location: US 101, 2 miles north of Cannon Beach.

Ecola State Park is just north of the town of Cannon Beach. Its southern viewpoint is a breathtaking seascape of Haystack Rock and the peaks of the Coast Range, extending to Neahkahnie Mountain. The main attractions on its 1,304 acres are the offshore lighthouse, hiking, photography, wildlife viewing, ancient forest land, geology, fishing and surfing. Located not