WellBeing

Lost and found in Northern Bali

Meditating at a waterfall in Amed.
Sitting cross-legged on the bare floor, Ketut tells me life is all about balancing the yin and yang, the spiritual and the material, good and evil, purpose and purposelessness.

Of all the waiting rooms I’ve been in, Pura Lempuyang Temple is by far the most spectacular. Instead of white walls and fluorescent lights, I’m sitting beneath an open sky flecked with clouds tickled pink by the morning sun. I’m not here to see a doctor; this appointment is of a more spiritual kind. You could call it a check-up for the mind and soul. My guide, Andy, has arranged for me to meet with a holy man to learn more about the temple, one of the six holiest sanctuaries in Bali, and Hinduism, the predominant religion of Bali. “Understand Hinduism,” Andy tells me, “and you will understand Bali.”

Like all doctor’s appointments, there is a wait but I’m happy to be outside soaking up the views. Looking out across the valley, the temple’s famous heavenly arches frame a distant volcano erupting from primordial jungles.

There’s a stillness here that’s almost meditative.

I say “almost” because uncoiling away from the arch is a small line of

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