In the past couple of years, there has been a tremendous thirst for independently made watches. What were once silent figures who labored in the shadows of their globally renowned competitors have emerged at the forefront of horology today, capturing the hearts and minds of both the seasoned collector and the wide-eyed newcomer as the ultimate expression of horological prowess.
In many ways, the very nature of independent watchmaking defies horological history, which in broad strokes is a story encompassing the manifold changes wrought by the forces of industrialization and democratization. It is the pursuit of horology as an art form, be it artisanal, conceptual, technical or artistic, without consideration for expense or time that separates them from the big players. And in developing a much more specialized line of inquiry where innate purpose holds the lead over commercial expectations, their influence on watchmaking is often directly inverse to their production output.
The history of independent watchmaking can be traced back to the late George Daniels, an English watchmaker who sustained the craft of mechanical watchmaking in an era when electronics and quartz technology threatened its existence. Up until then, the trade was largely characterized by an intense division of labor, but Daniels became the first watchmaker to master 32 of the 34 essential skills required in the construction of a mechanical watch. Most crucially, he dedicated his life to improving the heart of a mechanical watch and eventually succeeded in inventing the first practical escapement in 250 years that could supplant the Swiss lever on an industrial scale.
But the path he traversed to bring the co-axial escapement to an industrial reality was one filled with trials and tribulations. In discussing his difficulties, he once expressed his hopes for the Swiss watch industry: “It would be rather nice if it [his new escapement] provoked them to do something, to think of some other way of going about their affairs and not just staying in business making watches for money and to hell with the development of it.” His life’s accomplishments inspired a future for works that do not bring a quick buck but are instead based on ideas with significant intellectual if not spiritual depth.
Thus, today we recognize the watchmakers who, like Daniels, work from an inner necessity to expand the boundaries of horology, ranging from the greatest independents of all time who have become the cynosure of all of horology today, to the latter-day stars who have made distinct developments in their chosen fields, and the up-and-coming watchmakers who have shown great promise in their debut work. All of these watchmakers began their careers modestly. Some have grown in stature while others are still on the cusp of broader recognition. Each one, however, has demonstrated a level of excellence in their respective branch of pursuit and it is by this indicator of merit that we present you this power list.
THE LIVING LEGENDS SVEND ANDERSEN
Best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), along with his peer Vincent Calabrese in 1985, Andersen was one of the early independent watchmakers who specialized in custom and bespoke watches. He established