FOOD HAS ALWAYS been at the heart of Nayran Tabiei’s life, and became a precious connection to home when the Syrian chef was forced to flee Damascus during the civil war. Now a proud Melburnian, Tabiei recently opened Flavours of Syria – a colourful cafe in a St Kilda laneway that doubles as a base for her cooking classes and catering business.
“I promised my Grama to continue her journey and cook our food in any country I live,” the Victorian Refugee Achievement Award-winner says. “I love to present my culture’s food – it’s healthy, yummy and colourful.” Tabiei first started sharing her repertoire of earthy dips, moreish pastries and share-friendly spreads at Free to Feed, a social enterprise that runs popular cooking classes led by refugees and asylum seekers. Syrian is a very accessible cuisine, Tabiei says, and many of the recipes she makes and teaches are easily adapted to suit different proteins or vegan and vegetarian diets.
The scent of mint or the tactile experience of rolling a dolmeh transports Tabiei right back to Syria, and food is how she shares her culture with others. “Sharing food is sharing life moments,” she says. “They see my face and they remember the baklava they tried.”
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