NORTHUMBERLAND

hat, I wonder, did Hadrian think of this place, when he stood on its chilly hills 1,900 years ago? The ambitious Roman emperor was by most accounts born in southern Spain, and he was in his mid-40s when he found himself up here, at the very edge of his vast domain, contemplating a construction project for the ages. In second-century Britannia, the Mediterranean would’ve felt a lot further away than it does today. What did he make of the rolling