DANCER IN A long red dress stands alone in the darkness. The keening voice of a (singer) fills the air. “ (To the sea of my soul)”, she intones. The dancer’s arms flutter, as if awakened by the mournful singing. Her feet move slightly before turning around in one swift motion. Another dancer joins in, wearing a striking yellow dress and a mantón (a type of fringed shawl), and hair done up with a peineta (an ornamental comb) and flowers. The accompanies their dance with songs, exhortations, and the rhythmic clapping of hands between beats. The movements portray different styles of flamenco: from to and the most popular bulerias. I’m in Seville—regarded as the birthplace of flamenco—seated inside a cave at Museo del), sipping sangria and trying to keep pace with the mesmerising footwork of the Spanish dance unfolding in front of me.