‘When I swear, people know I mean it’

NOW and then, I dream of a lobster mousse I once had at Le Gavroche in London’s Mayfair. Rich, imaginative, sublime: it has stayed with me not only as the finest meal I’ve had, but as a broader illustration of what excellence is. Today, lunchtime at Michel Roux Jnr’s great two-Michelin-starred restaurant is a different affair. Recent events have seen to that. Although your temperature isn’t taken at the door—as at post-Covid-19 Scott’s—the staff wear protective gear and must smile their welcome through visors. All the menus are disposable and single-use.

There is, however, welcome continuity in the cheerful and infectious presence of Mr Roux. Every lunchtime, he circles among his guests; you wouldn’t guess from his demeanour how much 2020 has upended his life. ‘We’ll have the virus for quite a while and have to mitigate the risks,’