Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
Journal of Geographical Research
http://ojs.bilpublishing.com/index.php/jgr
REVIEW
Wave Dynamics Investigation in Scope of Coastal Processes
Levent Yilmaz*
Nisantasi University, 1453 Neocampus, Maslak, Istanbul, Turkey
ARTICLE INFO
ABSTRACT
Article history
Received: 12 December 2018
Accepted: 26 February 2019
Published: 5 March 2019
In this research it is established a classification system by which to
characterize atmospheric conditions, specifically those related to winter
extra tropical storms and fair weather. Numerous classification schemes
have been proposed to categorize atmospheric conditions in a variety of
environments-however, since meteorological processes are inherently
complicated, these are of necessity based on criteria that suit a particular
purpose. The system employed in this project was ultimately designed to
differentiate between: 1. fair weather and storm conditions; 2. different
phases of extratropical storms; 3. extratropical storms of different intensities and synoptic types.
Keywords:
B
1. Introduction
2.1 Wave Dynamics and Classifying Waves
t is useful to establish a classification system by which
to characterize atmospheric conditions, specifically
those related to winter extra tropical storms and fair
weather. Numerous classification schemes have been proposed to categorize atmospheric conditions in a variety of
environments-however, since meteorological processes
are inherently complicated, these are of necessity based
on criteria that suit a particular purpose. The system employed in this project was ultimately designed to differentiate between: 1. fair weather and storm conditions; 2.
different phases of extratropical storms; 3. extratropical
storms of different intensities and synoptic types. As
such, it draws upon several classification systems suggested in the literature, as well as criteria specific to the
research, and employs both hourly wind velocity data and
daily national weather maps [1,2].
The transfer of energy from water particle to water particle in the circular paths, or orbits, transmits wave energy across the ocean surface and causes the waveform
to move. This kind of wave is known as an orbital wave
which is a wave in that particles of the medium (water)
move in closed circles as the wave passes. Orbital sea
waves occur at the boundary between two media, between
air and water and between layers of water of different
densities. These waves are a type of progressive wave,
because the waveform moves forward. Sea waves have
distinct parts. The wave crest is the highest part of the
wave above average water level; the wave trough is the
valley between wave crests below average water level.
Wave height is the vertical distance between a wave crest
and the adjacent trough, while wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive wave crests. The time
it takes for two successive wave crests or troughs to pass
a fixed point, usually measured in seconds, is known as
the wave period. Wave frequency is the number of waves
I
2. Wave Dynamics and Wind Waves
*Corresponding Author:
Levent Yilmaz
Nisantasi University, 1453 Neocampus, Maslak, Istanbul, Turkey
Email:
[email protected]
20
Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
passing a fixed point per second. Frequency is the inverse
of period. The circular motion of water particles at the
surface of a wave continues underwater. Water particles
move diminishes rapidly with depth. For all practical
purposes, wave motion in deep-water waves is negligible
below a depth of one-half the wavelength. Since most
sea waves have moderate wavelengths, the circular disturbance of the ocean that propagates these waves affects
only the uppermost layer of water [3-6].
Sea waves are classified by the disturbing force that
creates them, the extent to which the disturbing force continues to influence the waves once they are formed, the
restoring force that tries to flatten them, and their wavelength [7].
Energy that causes sea waves to form is called a disturbing force. Wind blowing across the sea surface provides the disturbing force for wind waves. Arrival of a
storm surge or seismic sea wave in an enclosed harbour
or bay, or a sudden change in atmospheric pressure is the
disturbing force for the resonant rocking of water known
as a seiche. Landslides, volcanic eruptions, and faulting of
the seafloor associated with earthquakes are the disturbing forces for seismic sea waves which is also known as
tsunami. The disturbing forces for tides are changes in the
direction of gravitational forces among the Earth, moon,
and sun, combined with Earth’s rotation [8-11].
A wave that is formed and then propagates across the
sea surface without the further influence of the force that
formed it is known as a free wave. When wind waves
move away from the storm that created them, or when the
storm ceases, they continue without the injection of additional wind energy. Likewise, the tsunami waves caused
by submerged landslides or earthquakes continue to move
across the ocean surface long after the movement of the
landslide or earthquake has stopped [12].
Restoring force is the dominant force trying to return
the water surface to flatness after a wave has formed in
it. If the restoring force of a wave were quickly and fully
successful, a disturbed sea surface would immediately become smooth, and the energy of the embryo wave would
be dissipated as heat. Waves continue after they form
because the restoring force overcompensates and causes
oscillation. There are also capillary waves and gravity
waves. The capillary waves are the first waves to form
when the wind blows. These small ripples are important in
transferring energy from air to water to drive sea currents.
Since the circular motion of water molecules in a wave
is nearly friction free, gravity waves can travel across
thousands of miles of ocean surface without disappearing,
eventually to break on a distant shore[13].
Wavelength is a direct measure of wave size. There
Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
is the relation between disturbing and restoring forces,
period, and the relative amount of energy present in the
ocean’s surface for each wave type. More energy is stored
in wind waves than in any of the other wave types[14].
Figure. 1 The Distribution of wind power [16]
Figure 2. The distribution of wind velocity occurrence
(Weibull-Probability Distribution)
Figure 3. Results for Signal Processing Toolbox of Water
Level at 7. month at Gulf of Mexico[16]
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
21
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
history is written in the rocks, the water, and the genes of
the millions of organisms that have evolved on land and
in sea. Change is now progressing at an unnatural rate,
and these human-induced changes are imposing stress on
natural systems. In the last century the human beings have
developed the physical, chemical, and biological processes to destroy the world ocean and the atmosphere. We
need to act to moderate the negative effects of the destroying environmental. This is the reason for investigation the
coastal processes like hydro dynamical forces and atmospheric circulations and other processes involving the sea
physics.
Water Level 6.month
1
0.9
0.8
0.7
0.6
Series1
0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1
705
683
661
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Figure 4. Results for Signal Processing Toolbox of Water
Level at 6. month at Gulf of Mexico[16]
4. Conclusion
As researcher it is needed also some new innovation about
Earth Structure and Plate Tectonics, Sediments, Sea Physics, Atmospheric Circulation ,Wave Dynamics and Wind
Waves, Hydrodynamic Forces, Offshore and Onshore
Structures, Tsunami, Seiches, and Tides, Coasts, Simulation Theory, Modelling and Experimental Tests and Environmental Concerns
3. Result for the Coastal Processes
The Earth’s climate has changed with time, as has its atmospheric composition, its seawater chemistry, the size
and positions of its continents, and its life-forms. The
story of the Earth is the story of change and chance; its
Appendix
Data for Coastal Processes as an Example
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
OCC
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
100,
051
23
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
25
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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Distributed under creative commons license 4.0
DOI: https://doi.org/ 10.30564/jgr.v2i1.405
27
Journal of Geographical Research | Volume 02 | Issue 01 | January 2019
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