The Marwani
Musalla in
Jerusalem:
New Findings
Shortly after Caliph ‘Umar ibn alKhattab’s (579-644, caliph 634-644)
arrival in Jerusalem in 638, he is said to
have constructed a rudimentary mosque
1
or prayer space south of the historical
Rock now contained within the Dome of
the Rock (completed 691) on the former
Beatrice St. Laurent
Temple Mount or Bayt al-Maqdis known
and Isam Awwad
popularly since Mamluk and Ottoman times
as the Haram al-Sharif.2 (Fig.1) Though
later textual evidence indicates that ‘Umar
prayed somewhere south of the “rock” and
later scholars suggest that he constructed a
rudimentary prayer space on the site, there is
no surviving physical evidence of that initial
structure. After his appointment as Governor
of Syria (bilad al-sham) by ‘Umar in 639/40,
Mu‘awiya ibn Abi Sufyan (602-680, caliph
Figure 1: Air view of the Haram al-Sharif from
660-680)3 either expanded upon the Mosque
the north showing the eastern area of the Haram
al-Sharif. Source: Matson Collection, Library of of ‘Umar or constructed an entirely new
Congress.
mosque in Jerusalem between 640 and 660.
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 7 ]
This mosque was completed in time for his investiture in that mosque in 660 as the
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This article proposes that the seventh-century mosque of Jerusalem constructed
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and the Bayt al-Maqdis precinct was the centrally placed eastern gate. Further, it
will be demonstrated that there were four entrances to this mosque, one ceremonial
and public from the east, leading to a northern entrance to the prayer space, a
second public entrance and a third private entrance, both from south of the city. The
physical evidence from the site itself, the newly established presence of Islamic rule
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the site contributed to the location of this mosque in the southeastern quadrant of
the sanctuary.5 The building is variously known historically as masjid qadim, aqsa,
Solomon’s Stables and is today the Marwani Musalla (prayer space).
History
Up to now, there are no inscriptions or other archaeological evidence dating the
mosque of Mu‘awiya or proclaiming it for Islam. However, citing Jeremy Johns
the “absence of evidence is not evidence of absence,”6 thus we are reliant on near
contemporary literary evidence, the plan and remains of the building itself.
In his 2003 article “Archaeology and the history of Early Islam,” Johns presents the
documentary and textual evidence for Mu‘awiya’s establishment of a monarchy with
its administrative capital in Damascus and its spiritual capital in Jerusalem. Mu‘awiya
ZDVWKH¿UVW0XVOLPUXOHUZKRLQWURGXFHGKLVQDPHDQGWKHWLWOHRIamir al-mu’minin
RQFRLQVRI¿FLDOGRFXPHQWVDQGLQPRQXPHQWDODUFKLWHFWXUDOLQVFULSWLRQV7 Robert
Hoyland citing the near contemporary mid-seventh-century Maronite Chronicles
written by Syrian Christian Maronites indicates that Mu‘awiya minted gold and silver,
that he placed his throne in Damascus and refused to go “to the seat of Muhammad,”8
all suggesting that his goal was the creation of a monarchy in his name, attesting to his
and the Sufyanid contentious relationship with Mecca.
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Several scholars cite this textual evidence for the existence of the seventh-century
mosque. Bernard Flusin in his 1992 article in Bayt al-Maqdis, cites a text by one
Theodore who indicates that there was a mosque on the site before the death of
the Patriarch Sophronius, who received Caliph ‘Umar in Jerusalem (circa 639).9
Anastasius of Sinai, at the time of the construction of the Dome of the Rock (691)
“witnessed the clearing of the Roman ‘Capitol’ for the Muslims ‘30 years ago,’” so
in 658.10 Creswell cites further Christian sources: Theophanes (751-818), Elias of
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of a building in 643, and Michael the Syrian (1166-1199) who indicates that the
mosque was built in 640.11
[ 8 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
The only contemporary visitor and commentator to describe the seventh-century
mosque is the Gallic Bishop Arculf or Arculfus who visited Jerusalem sometime
between 679 and 682 during the reign of Mu‘awiya.12 He states:
… in inferiore vero parte urbis ubi Templum in vicinia muri ab oriente
locatum ipsique urbi transitu pervio ponte mediante fuerat coniunctum
nunc ibi Saraceni quadratam domum subrectis tabulis et magnis trabibus
super quasdam ruinarum reliquas construentes oratione frequentant quae
tria milia hominum capere videtur.
[… in that renowned place where once the Temple had been magnificently
constructed, placed near the wall in the east, the Saracens now frequent a
quadrangular place of prayer, which they have built rudely constructing it
by setting great beams on slabs on some remains of ruins; this house, it is
said to hold three thousand men at once.]
This description pinpoints the location of the mosque next to the eastern wall of the
precinct not the southern wall as many later scholars suggest. His visit to Jerusalem
provides a date by which the mosque was completed but he does not attribute the
FRQVWUXFWLRQWRDVSHFL¿FUXOHU+ROGLQJWKUHHWKRXVDQGPHQWKLVZDVDODUJHVWUXFWXUH
that was sturdily built and thus not easily dismantled.13
The earliest Muslim sources to mention the mosque are from the tenth and eleventh
centuries. The tenth century Muslim author al-Maqdisi reports (c. 966) that Mu‘awiya
restored the “Temple” indicating that it was there that Muslims swore allegiance to
him.14 Other tenth-century historians make no mention of the mosque. Ibn al-Murajja
LQWKH¿UVWKDOIRIWKHHOHYHQWKFHQWXU\FLWHVDWUDGLWLRQ WKHFKDLQHQGLQJLQ WKDW
Mu‘awiya is reported to have stated from the minbar of the mosque “what is between
the two walls of his mosque (masjid) is dearer to God than the rest of the earth.”15 The
Persian traveler Nasir-i Khusraw who visited Jerusalem on March 5, 1147, indicated,
“the eastern wall is attached to the congregational mosque” and that “one wall of
the mosque is on the Valley of Gehenna [Kidron Valley today].” The mosque in this
context has been interpreted by most scholars to mean that the entire complex of
the Haram al-Sharif is considered as the mosque.16 In 1173, Muhammad ibn Yusuf
DO+DUDZL µ$OLRI+HDUW LVWKH¿UVW0XVOLPWUDYHOHUWRPHQWLRQWKHVWUXFWXUHLQWKH
southeastern corner of the Haram as Solomon’s Stables.17
Description
The Mosque is a multi-aisled vaulted quadrangular building of monumental
proportions – large enough “to contain three thousand men.” (Fig. 2) It is built into the
southeast corner of the precinct now known as the Haram al-Sharif. The total area of
the space is 3,390 square meters. There are nine barrel-vaulted aisles of equal length
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 9 ]
Figure 2: Plan of the Mosque of Mu‘awiya. Source: Awwad, June 2013.
comprising the main area, running perpendicular to the south qibla wall or wall facing
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is wider than the rest and thus is the central nave and the focus of the structure. The
four shorter aisles to the west ending in bedrock should be considered as part of the
entrance area where it connects with the Triple Gate and its vaulted passageway.
The aisle arcades are supported by eighty-eight large piers with six additional
engaged piers for a total of ninety-four. (Fig. 3) The piers consist of huge stones in
secondary use measuring 110 x 280 cm – perhaps the “large slabs” mentioned by
Arculf. Semi-circular arches springing from ashlar stones hewn to trapezoidal shape
top the piers. The barrel vaults springing from the arcades currently roof the building,
but their differing stone construction suggests later construction. At regular intervals
just above the arcade arches in some but not all of the aisles are square holes that
possibly held wooden scaffolding during vault construction or re-construction.18 We
propose that the original vaulting of the mosque was closely similar to the vaulting
of the passages in the Triple Gate, which did not suffer damage in the earthquakes
subsequent to the seventh century construction of the building and its southern
entrances. (Fig.4)
What is truly notable is the near-complete absence of decoration in the interior of
the building. There are two exceptions. The first is the Mahd Isa or Cradle of Jesus
[ 10 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 3: Interior of the Mosque of Mu‘awiya showing aisle 4 and the piers of re-used Herodian stones.
Source: St. Laurent, 2007.
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 11 ]
Figure 4: Vaulting of the western most vaulted passage of the Triple Gate. Source: Awwad, 2013
in the southeast corner, which includes decorated stones from previous periods, and
which will not be examined in this paper. The only other decoration is in the center
of the fifth aisle or the central nave of the building on the south-facing or qibla wall.
(Figs. 5a and 5b) There is a decorated fragment of Byzantine marble centrally placed
at floor level almost as the springing to the left of an arch where a mihrab would be
located. Additionally, there is a large piece of marble to the right corresponding to the
location of the right arch springing. A series of other marble pieces located above this
almost form an arch. Finbarr Flood in his article “Light in Stone. The Commemoration
of the Prophet in Umayyad Architecture,”19 summarizes the material, textual and
scholarly evidence for the use of markers mainly of stone or marble to commemorate
the prayer places of the Prophet in the early Umayyad period. Flood supports the idea
that “the installation of a series of stone memorials at sites where the Prophet was
believed to have prayed represent different aspects of a formal aniconic programme
of commemoration focused on the Prophet.” The textual evidence indicates that slabs
of white and other colored marbles and black stones streaked with white in the Kaaba
and early mosques of Arabia and Palestine.20 While Flood focuses on the time of the
early Rashidi Caliphate and on the period of ‘Abd al-Malik, we would like to suggest
Mu‘awiya was conscious of the stone markers as commemorating the prayer places
of the Prophet and that the stones placed in the central aisle on the qibla wall could be
[ 12 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 5a: Mihrab in the south or qiblah wall of the
fifth central nave. Source: Awwad.
Figure 5b: Mihrab detail of Byzantine spolia. Source:
St. Laurent, 2007.
such a marker or a rudimentary mihrab
indicating the direction of prayer. In a
recent paper Alan Walmsley and Hugh
Barnes discussed the mihrab of the early
eighth-century mosque of Jerash as
constructed of Byzantine spolia – earlier
building material in re-use.21 Perhaps
the use of spolia in the mosque in Jerash
demonstrates continuity with the earlier
usage in Jerusalem.
The plan of the mosque conforms
to a later mosque at the south end of
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by Robert Hamilton in his 1949 The
Structural History of the Aqsa Mosque.22
It was a substantial building of stone
and dressed with marble measuring 50
meters north to south and 45 meters east
to west, similar in scale to the Mosque
of Mu‘awiya (Marwani Musalla) and
located directly under the current Aqsa
mosque. Apparently, Julian Raby has
suggested that Hamilton’s “First Aqsa”
was the Mosque of Mu‘awiya.23 In 1999,
Jeremy Johns published the plan, which
evidences close similarities in both plan
and scale to the Marwani plan – a multiaisled structure – with aisles running
north to south to the qibla wall – and
a larger central nave. This Jerusalem
plan seems to be the prototype for later
Umayyad mosques.24 We propose that
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Mu‘awiya located in the southeast corner
of the precinct.
Raby’s argument is interesting but one
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to be built by Abd al-Malik was the
Dome of the Rock completed in 691.
The Aqsa was not built until the early
eighth century after the completion of the
Dome. If the Mosque of Mu‘awiya was
on the site of the present Aqsa, where did
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 13 ]
Figure 6: Southern wall of the Haram al-Sharif showing the Triple Gate and Single Gate. Source: St. Laurent,
2012.
Figure 7: Triple Gate showing arch construction. Source: St. Laurent, 2012.
[ 14 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
the Muslim community pray during the construction of the early eighth-century Aqsa?
:HSURSRVHWKDWWKH¿UVW$TVDRI+DPLOWRQZDVEDVHGRQWKHSODQRI0XµDZL\D¶V
mosque directly to the east. In fact, Hamilton’s excavation of the eastern aisle
demonstrates the east-west near-alignment of both buildings, that is, minus the later
porch of the present mosque. A 1970s probe by Isam Awwad of the northwest side
of the Aqsa supports this thesis. In addition, the eighth-century Aqsa was far wider
than the current mosque and the east wall of that structure would have been adjacent
to and above the vaulted aisles of the Triple Gate. In fact, there were twelve simple
undecorated entrances on the east façade of the early-eighth-century Aqsa, suggesting
consistent usage of the structure from the east with the formal entrance on the north
aligned with the Dome of the Rock – part and parcel of ‘Abd al-Malik’s “grand
narrative.” Thus, the Muslims of Jerusalem would have continued to pray in the
Mosque of Mu‘awiya while the new mosque was under construction.
Much has been written about the date of the structure known currently as the
Marwani Musalla and now discussed as the Mosque of Mu‘awiya.25 Most are in
agreement that the structure was one built with materials in secondary re-usage and
many date it to the early Umayyad period.26
Access
There were three entrances to the mosque’s enclosed prayer space – the Triple Gate
and the Single Gate both from the exterior of the precinct, within the city walls at the
time and located on the southern wall of the sanctuary; and the main northern entrance
from the interior of the precinct. There was another major entrance to the entire
precinct to the north in the eastern wall. (Fig.6)
The Triple Gate afforded public access from the area to the south via an entrance
on the east wall of its vaulted chamber. (Fig.7) It also led to the interior of the entire
precinct to the north through a vaulted aisled passageway and, up until 1996, this was
the main entrance to the building.27 This is a simple undecorated gateway indicating
that it was not the most important entrance to the building. Similar to the interior
arcades semi-circular arches spring from ashlar stones hewn to near-trapezoidal shape.
Since the Triple Gate is contemporary with the rebuilding of the southern wall and
the complex of Solomon’s Stables now referred to as Mu‘awiya’s mosque, it should
be dated to the Umayyad period and as a possible rebuilding of an earlier gateway.
The interior consists of three barrel-vaulted passageways leading northward exiting
to the precinct platform (see Fig. 4). The vaults of this passageway are integral to the
Umayyad period of construction. In the southeast wall of the easternmost vaulted aisle
of the passageway, there is a small, undecorated doorway that affords entry into the
mosque. (Fig. 8)
The Single Gate is in the south wall of the Haram leading to the sixth aisle of the
mosque. (Fig. 9) It is a simple single-arched entrance with no decoration. The arch
construction up to the springing is closely similar to the Triple Gate and the interior
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 15 ]
Figure 8: Entrance to the Mosque in the southeast wall of the easternmost vaulted passageway of the Triple
Gate. Source: Awwad, 2013.
[ 16 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 9: Single Gate in the southern wall of the Haram al-Sharif located east of the Triple gate. Source:
St. Laurent, 2012.
arcade arches of the mosque. It differs from the Triple Gate and interior arches in
that the arch is pointed. Most scholars attribute this entrance to the Crusader period
but archaeologist Dan Bahat dates it to the Fatimid reconstruction after the 1003
earthquake.28 Based on the similar construction of the lower part of the Single Gate
to that of the Triple Gate, we propose the gate was part of the “original” Umayyad
construction, that it was partially destroyed by successive earthquakes in the eighth
through the eleventh centuries and reconstructed at the same time as the interior
vaulting.
Further, a “tunnel” or a passageway discovered by Wilson in the third quarter of
the nineteenth century under the Single Gate runs north until blocked by debris. There
are two exits from the tunnel one directly above the other. They were both originally
underground but the upper one was exposed during Mazar and Ben-Dov’s excavations.
Evidence from a visit with Meir Ben-Dov in the 1970s indicates that it led directly
upward from under the Single Gate to the interior of the building.29 The construction of
the tunnel is of Herodian-period stone in reuse paralleling the interior construction of
the piers suggesting a contemporary date for the tunnel and thus the Single Gate. On the
interior, there are partial protective walls that appear to the left and right of the Gate.30
To explain the function of these two entrances it is necessary to examine the
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 17 ]
southeast area beyond the Gates. Evidence from British archaeologist Kathleen
Kenyon’s excavations in the early 1960s31 and later those of Benjamin Mazar and Meir
Ben-Dov support the existence of an active community resident in the area just outside
the south wall of the precinct during both the Byzantine and early Islamic periods.32
There was a Byzantine residential area south of the Haram and the population was
mixed Christian, Jewish and Muslim by the early Umayyad period.33 So perhaps it was
already the residential area for Muslims during the period of Mu‘awiya.
Procopius, the historian of Late Antiquity who, in his sixth-century 'H(GL¿FLLV
Justiniani documented the architecture of the Byzantine emperor Justinian, mentions
two hospitals for the sick and poor near the Basilica of St. Mary (Nea Church), one
located in the southern area of the precinct and documented by Ben-Dov.34 Nasir-iKhusraw also mentions that there was a hospital on the eastern side of the city.35 That
structure was thus used consistently from the Byzantine period through the eleventh
century and was no doubt in active use during the period of Mu‘awiya.
The main Umayyad structures south of the Haram excavated by Benjamin Mazar
and Ben-Dov date from the later Umayyad period in the eighth century when the
$TVD0RVTXHZDV¿UVWFRQVWUXFWHGGXULQJWKHUHLJQRIµ$EGDO0DOLN+RZHYHU BenDov shows a smaller Islamic-period structure in the area just outside the Single Gate
at the eastern end of the southern wall. This might possibly be one of the Byzantine
hospitals mentioned by Procopius and Nasir-i Khusraw. We propose that this building
could have been Mu‘awiya’s residence. If that were the case then the Single Gate
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early Umayyad period when caliphs were subject to assassinations and assassination
attempts. Further, the above-mentioned tunnel under the Single Gate could have been
KLVPHDQVRIHVFDSHGXULQJWLPHVRIGLI¿FXOW\
Ben-Dov dates the Single Gate to the Crusader era based on the fact that it was
an escape exit from Jerusalem when the city walls were bounded by the Haram’s
southern wall. If the Gate dates from the Umayyad era when the eastern city wall
extended further to the south, then the passageway led directly from the mosque to
the residential and palace area directly south of the gate. In that case, one of the two
“escape” exits could have led outside to the neighborhood and the other directly
underground to the interior of the palace, providing the caliph quick means of egress
during times of political unease.
The main entrance is the north portal situated on the north wall opening into the
precinct within the walls of Bayt al-Maqdis. (Fig.10) This portal consists of nine
arched openings to the mosque interior, with only seven and the beginning of an
eighth visible today, more apparent in the line drawing and photographic detail of the
beginning of the eighth arch. (Fig.11) The plain stone construction parallels that of
the Triple Gate, the lower part of the Single Gate and interior arcades suggesting the
same period of construction in the Umayyad period. There is also evidence of doors
suggesting that it was a secure enclosed structure. (Fig. 12) That the four aisles from
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suggests that the builders confronted a space intended to be monumental in scale with
[ 18 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 10: North Portal elevation from the north. Source: Awwad, 2013.
Figure 11: Detail of the portal from the north showing
beginning of the 8th arch. Source: Awwad, 2012.
Figure 12: Sketch showing placement of doors in
the easternmost wall of the north portal. Source:
Awwad, 1999.
a centrally placed large central aisle.
However, the bedrock restricted the scale
of the entryway. The result was a nineaisled structure with an emphasis on a
central nave with the aisles to the east
necessarily narrower to keep the main
nave in a central position.
Further, the exterior façade of this
portal reveals that the spandrel area
and the top of the arches had at some
point collapsed and were reconstructed
at a later date. (Fig. 13) The exterior
southern wall of the precinct above both
the Triple and Single Gates exhibits
reconstruction at exactly the same level
suggesting a collapse, no doubt caused
by an earthquake, supporting the later
reconstruction of the interior vaults,
assigned by Bahat to the Fatimid era.36
This portal was not known and was
revealed during the opening by the
Awqaf of a second safety entrance for
the Marwani Musalla in 1999. Up until
that time, the structure was considered
an underground structure causing
a rethinking of the function of this
building. After the building no longer
functioned as a mosque, the arches were
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supporting wall was built in the interior
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 19 ]
Figure 13: North portal façade from the north. Source: St. Laurent, 2012.
Figure 14: Golden Gate from the west from the top of the Dome of the Rock. Source: St. Laurent, 2012.
[ 20 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 15: South entrance of the Golden Gate from the south. Detail shows the springing of an arch to the
upper left of the entrance. Source: St. Laurent, 1993.
of the building so there was no evidence of openings in the wall. Clearly, this major
portal’s existence indicates that the structure was buried after the building was no
longer in use. Thus the southeastern area of the precinct in proximity of the mosque
was much lower when it was initially built.
There is yet another gate to consider – the Golden Gate.37 (Fig. 14) Proceeding
north from the portal in the north façade of the mosque, one comes to the Golden Gate
situated midway in the eastern wall. It is a monumental ornately decorated entrance
to the eastern side of the precinct clearly exhibiting multiple periods of construction.
There are two entrances from the east leading to a multi-columned hall and, continuing
west, directly into the precinct. There is also a south entrance, which is much simpler
than the double entrance on the west façade. (Fig. 15)
Archaeologist Dan Bahat and London-based historian Yuri Stoyanov – and
others before them – present convincing arguments for the Byzantine construction
or reconstruction of the Golden Gate and its use by the Byzantine emperor Heraclius
(emperor 610-641). Bahat considers the Golden Gate a Christian structure constructed
in the Byzantine period during the reign of Heraclius.38 In fact, Yuri Stoyanov suggests
that Heraclius returned the relic of the True Cross to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
in March 30, 630.39 The fact that the Golden Gate is in direct alignment with the
entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre strengthens Bahat’s and Stoyanov’s
arguments. Others have assigned it to the Umayyad period.40 In fact, the Golden
Gate exhibits ample evidence of multiple periods of construction and may evidence
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 21 ]
Figure 16: Detail of plan of the Haram al-Sharif. Source: Pierotti, 1864.
[ 22 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
FRQVWUXFWLRQLQERWKSHULRGV7KLVVXJJHVWVWKDWWKHJDWHZDVRI¿FLDOO\XWLOL]HGWR
DFFHVVWKHSUHFLQFWGXULQJWKH¿UVWKDOIRIWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\XQGHUERWK&KULVWLDQDQG
Muslim rule.
Charles Wilson in the 1865 Ordnance Survey of Jerusalem states:
In the northeast corner and between the Birket Israel and Golden Gate, there
has been an immense amount of filling in to bring this portion up to the
general level of the area, and it appears to have been done at a period long
after the erection of the Golden Gate, the north side of which is hidden by an
accumulation of rubbish rising twenty-six feet above the sill of the western
doorway. Immediately in front (west) of the golden Gate there is a deep
hollow, the descent to the entrance being over a sloping heap of rubbish,
which, on excavation, would probably be found to cover a flight of steps
leading up to the higher level; the southern side is not so completely covered
as the northern, but even here the rubbish is nine feet above the western
door sill, and soon rises to the general ground level. A little to the southwest
of the Golden Gate the rock is again found on the surface, having a dip of
10 degrees [in symbol form] due east, and here only one layer of ‘missae’
covers the ‘malaki,’ in which the cisterns are excavated …41
The plans of the Haram of DeVogue and Ermete Pierotti,42 the latter the Chief
Engineer for the Ottomans on the Haram al-Sharif from 1854-1861 (Fig. 16) show that
depression, and in fact, also demonstrate that the level of the Golden Gate is closely
similar to the level of the main entrance to the mosque to the south. The level indicated
by Wilson in the Ordnance Survey plans of 1865 is as follows: for the Golden Gate,
inside at the level of the entrance 2,388.8 meters and outside the wall 2,393.2 meters;
for the area of the mosque 2,384 meters outside the east wall in the area of the mosque
and 2,371.2 meters; a roughly four-meter difference.43 These measurements indicate
a gentle downward sloping from the Golden Gate to the mosque. This equivalency
DQGVORSLQJLVDOVRFOHDUO\UHÀHFWHGLQ'H9RJXH¶VSODQRIWKHWRSRJUDSKLFDO
delineation of the landscape in the Haram’s southeastern area. This suggests that the
entire eastern area of the precinct was originally much lower than at present and that
WKHDUHDVRXWKRIWKH*ROGHQ*DWHZDVDOVRRYHUWKHFHQWXULHV¿OOHGZLWKWUDVK
7KDWWKLVDUHDLV¿OOHGZLWKGHEULVLVDPSO\GHPRQVWUDWHGE\=DFKL'YLUDDQG*DEL
Barkay’s Temple Mount Sifting Project, “sifting” the material removed to open the
³QHZ´HQWUDQFHWRWKH0DUZDQL0XVDOOD0XFKRIWKHPDWHULDOIRXQGLQWKDW¿OOIDOOV
notably in the category of detritus. Evidence from Beatrice St. Laurent’s research with
the project demonstrates that the material from the 1943 demolition of the Crusader
structure once attached to the east side of the Aqsa Mosque was deposited in the area
directly in front of the north portal of the mosque.44 There is reason to assume that the
east area continued to serve as a depository for trash from the time of the abandonment
of the mosque.
To the left of the entrance in the south wall of the Golden Gate is the springing
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 23 ]
Figure 17: Reconstructed arch just north of the north portal of the mosque. Source: St. Laurent, 2012.
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that premise is the existence of multiple arch springings (with one arch reconstructed
in the 1990s) appearing on the southeast wall by the main entrance to the Marwani
Musalla. (Fig. 17) From this, one can safely propose that there was an arcade that
ran the length of the east wall from the Golden Gate to the entrance of the mosque
with piers measuring 90 x 90 cm with a span of 340 cm between each pier. From
this evidence, we posit that the Golden Gate was the public formal entrance to both
the precinct and the mosque. The area west and south of the Golden Gate was the
courtyard or sahn of the mosque bounded by the arcade or riwaq on the east and on
the west by cisterns embedded in bedrock. (Fig. 18)
The Golden Gate was on Heraclius’ path to return the relic of the True Cross to the
Holy Sepulchre, an event that marked the return of the region to Byzantine control
after the Persian wars. This lends credence to the Gate’s religio-political importance
IRUWKH&KULVWLDQUHVLGHQWVRIWKHFLW\LQWKH¿UVWKDOIRIWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\,WLVDOVR
VLJQL¿FDQWWKDWWKLVHYHQWRFFXUUHGRQO\DIHZ\HDUVSULRUWRWKHEHJLQQLQJRIWKHHDUO\
Muslim period in 637/638 CE.
Mu‘awiya’s period of rule in Jerusalem was one marked by equanimity among the
various religious groups in the city. Non-Muslim contemporary authors contrast the
UHLJQVRI0XµDZL\DDQGWKH¿UVW0DUZDQLGFDOLSKµ$EGDO0DOLN±VWURQJO\SURWHVWLQJ
WKHKDUVKDGPLQLVWUDWLYHDQG¿VFDOUHIRUPRIWKHODWWHU7KHUHLJQRI0XµDZL\D
was seen as a “golden age … when the Arabs exacted only tribute and allowed the
[ 24 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Figure 18: Perspective drawing of the Mosque of Mu’awiya. Source: Awwad, 2013.
FRQTXHUHGSRSXODWLRQ«WRUHPDLQLQZKDWHYHUIDLWKWKH\ZLVKHG«MXVWLFHÀRXULVKHG
… and there was great peace in the regions under his control; he allowed everyone to
live as they wanted.”45
Mu‘awiya was said to have propagated the use of the term “land of the
Gathering and Resurrection” (ard al-mahshar wa ‘l-manshar). When he met with
Iraqi emissaries to his court he indicated that they had arrived at “the seat of the
best caliphs” and “at the holy land, the land of the Gathering and Resurrection.”46
1HFLSR÷OXVXJJHVWVWKDWWKHFRXUWPHHWLQJZDVDW'DPDVFXVDQGWKDWKHZDVH[WHQGLQJ
Jerusalem’s holiness to all of Syria (bilad al-sham) but the source is not cited.47 We
would suggest that he was equating the religious and administrative functions of rule.
There is also evidence to suggest that Mu‘awiya’s intentions were to establish
Jerusalem as a religio-political capital of the nascent Umayyad Empire. Miriam RosenAyalon citing S.D. Goitein indicates “the extent of their architectural development there
[Jerusalem] was such that it has been suggested that their aim was to turn it into a major
focal point and eventually their capital.”48 Amikam Elad adds that it seems evident:
… that the Umayyads intended to develop Jerusalem into a political and
religious centre, which if it were not intended to surpass Mecca, would at
least be its equal. This effort began with Mua‘waya ibn Abi Sufyan and
ended during the reign of Sulayman ibn ‘Abd al-Malik (715-717) when he
began to build Ramleh.49
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 25 ]
Abdul Aziz Duri indicates that Jerusalem “was not one of the administrative centers;
since those centres were to be bases for the Arab muqatila (troops) to meet their needs
in pastures and climate. Bait al-Maqdis with its Haram was hardly suitable.”50 In
IDFW0XµDZL\DGLGQRW¿UVWEXLOGDPRVTXHRIPRQXPHQWDOVFDOHLQ'DPDVFXVEXWLQ
Jerusalem. The intention was for his investiture as caliph in that mosque, a decidedly
religio-political motive. This strongly supports his intention of establishing Jerusalem
as both a center of royal authority without administrative capability and a spiritual
capital of his new empire.
By adding an Umayyad façade to the Golden Gate and making it the formal
ceremonial entrance to his mosque Mu‘awiya sent a strongly symbolic message
concerning the passage of power from one political entity to another. That he added
an Islamic layer to the Byzantine structure rather than re-building it implies a respect
for the previous empire while imposing a new Islamic ethos and gloss to Bayt alMaqdis.51 This suggests that the intention of the new Islamic regime was to live in a
spirit of cooperation with the resident population of the city.
It was left to ‘Abd al-Malik to shift the emphasis from the southeastern quadrant
of the precinct to a more central and monumentally focused plan fully expressed in the
Dome of the Rock (688-691) and the slightly later al-Aqsa Mosque. In fact, Eutychius
(877-940) reports that ‘Abd al-Malik “extended the territory of the mosque, included
the Sakhra…”52 and we posit that the mosque cited here is the Mosque of Mu‘awiya,
which extended from the Golden Gate to the prayer space built into the southeastern
corner of Bayt al-Maqdis.
Conclusion
It is hard to believe that the mosque described by Arculf in the seventh century as
holding three thousand men and constructed of “great slabs” had totally disappeared
as most scholars suggest. There has also never been a reasonable explanation for the
function of the building known as Solomon’s Stables other than that it was built to
bring the level of the platform up to the same level as the area of the present Aqsa
Mosque. This claim is now disproved by the nine-arched entrance to the structure and
indicates that the monumental building’s main entrance was from the north.
7KHLQYHVWLWXUHRIµ$EGDO0DOLNDVWKH¿UVW0DUZDQLG DQRWKHUEUDQFKRIWKH
Umayyad lineage) caliph marked the end of the Sufyanid branch of the Umayyad
dynasty and the beginning of the Marwanid period (685-813). At the end of the
seventh and beginning of the eighth century ‘Abd al-Malik shifted the emphasis
on the site from the east to the central area occupied by the Dome of the Rock, alAqsa Mosque and the palace complex to the south of the Aqsa. He further imposed
the “grand Umayyad narrative” of the Marwanids on this monumental architectural
VFKHPHZKLFKDOWHUHGWKHXVHDQGVLJQL¿FDQFHRIWKHHQWLUHDUHD7KHUHZDVDOVRD
shift to develop the west and north entrances to the precinct. The Abbasids laid claim
to the site after 750. Mazar and Ben Dov’s excavations demonstrate that the Abbasids
[ 26 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
VHWRQDSDWKRIQXOOL¿FDWLRQRI8PD\\DGDFKLHYHPHQWVLQ-HUXVDOHPXVLQJWKHSDODFH
area as a quarry for their own architectural purposes.537KLVLVVXSSRUWHGE\WKH¿QGVLQ
Barkay’s “Temple Mount Sifting Project.”
It is then reasonable to assume that the mosque built by Mu‘awiya functioned at
least until the Aqsa was completed. Afterward, the Golden Gate was closed and it was
abandoned for major public usage and the area came to be used as a depository for
materials of construction and trash.
The proposed date for the initiation of construction of the Mosque of Mu‘awiya
is 640 – shortly after the Muslim conquest of Jerusalem and only ten years after
Heraclius’s heroic re-entry through the Golden Gate. What more appropriately
symbolic gesture than for the formal entry to the Mosque of Mu‘awiya to be through
exactly the same gate, symbolizing the prevalence over Byzantium by Islam and
physically establishing the religio-political primacy of Islam in the construction of
his mosque in the southeastern part of the precinct in Jerusalem. In his reference to
the “land of the Gathering and Resurrection” he establishes the holiness and political
dominion of Bayt al-Maqdis, and initiates a “narrative” focused on eschatology and
the legitimization of caliphal authority in both Damascus and Jerusalem.
The survival of the Mosque of Mu‘awiya raises an additional important issue. Up
until now, the Dome of the Rock was the oldest extant Islamic monument in the world.
7KHVXUYLYDORIWKHUDWKHUSODLQ0RVTXHRI0XµDZL\DGLVSODFHVE\¿IW\RQH\HDUVWKH
physically imposing Dome of the Rock as the oldest surviving monument. This adds
an entirely new gloss of simplicity, benevolence and quiet diplomacy to the early
Islamic period in seventh century Jerusalem.
Beatrice St. Laurent holds a PhD in Islamic Art and Architecture and is Professor of
Art History in the Art Department at Bridgewater State University in Massachusetts.
Since 1990, her research has focused on the Dome of the Rock and the monuments of
the Haram-al-Sharif.
Isam Awwad was Chief Architect and Conservator of the Haram al-Sharif in Jerusalem
from 1972 to 2004. Currently he is the Consulting Architect and Team Leader for the
Restoration Project of the Great Mosque in the Old City of Sana‘a, Yemen.
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 27 ]
Endnotes
1 The premise of this article was presented as a
professional paper at ICHAJ12 (International
Conference on the History and Archaeology
of Jordan), May 5-11, 2013 at Humboldt
University in Berlin and will be published in
the conference journal.
2 Robert Schick, “Archaeology and the
Qur’an,” in Encyclopedia of the Qur’an,
ed. Jane Dammen McAuliffe (Leiden and
Boston: 2001-2006); see also Donald P. Little
“Jerusalem under the Ayyubids and Mamluks,”
in Jerusalem in History, ed. Kamil Asali (New
York: Olive Branch Press, 1990), 187-188.
3 Mu‘awiya was the first of three Sufyanid
caliphs ruling from 660-680 in bilad alsham. His investiture was in the same year as
the death of the ‘Ali, the last of the Rashidi
caliphs.
4 For excellent general overviews of available
scholarship on this topic see: Jeremy Johns
“Archaeology and the History of Early Islam:
The First Seventy Years,” in JESHO Journal
of the Economic and Social History of the
Orient, 46 (2003): 411-36; Gülru Necipo÷lu,
“The Dome of the Rock as Palimpsest:
‘Abd al-Malik’s Grand Narrative and Sultan
Süleyman’s Glosses,” in Muqarnas: An Annual
on the Visual Culture of the Islamic World, 25
(2008): 19, 81-82 fn. 9-12.
5 The initiation of a “narrative scheme,” the
symbolic and eschatological associations
relative to the mosque and the Golden Gate
will be explored in an expanded version of this
article. For more general information on the
Haram al-Sharif see Oleg Grabar et al., The
Shape of the Holy: Early Islamic Jerusalem
(Princeton: Princeton University Press,1996).
6 Johns, “Archaeology and the History of Early
Islam,” 416.
7 Johns, “Archaeology and the History of Early
Islam,” 418-19, fn.10 and 11.
8 Robert G. Hoyland, Seeing Islam as Others
Saw it: A Survey and Evaluation of Christian,
Jewish and Zoroastrian Writings on Early
Islam (Princeton, New Jersey: Darwin Press,
1997), 136-39; Andrew Palmer, Sebastian
P. Brock and Robert Hoyland, The Seventh
Century in the West-Syrian Chronicles
(Liverpool: Liverpool University Press, 1993),
31-32.
9 Bernard Flusin, “L’Esplanade du Temple
à l’arrivée Arabes d’après deux récits
byzantins,” in Bayt al-Maqdis: ‘Abd al-Malik’s
Jerusalem, Part 1, ed. Julian Raby and Jeremy
10
11
12
13
14
16
17
18
19
20
21
[ 28 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Johns [Oxford Studies in Islamic Art IX]
(Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1992), 1922.
Flusin, “L’Esplanade du Temple, 25-26.
6HHDOVR*OUX1HFLSR÷OXLQMuqarnas: An
Annual on the Visual Culture of the Islamic
World, 20 (2003): f. 14, 82.
K. A. C. Creswell, Early Muslim Architecture,
vol. 1, part 1 (Oxford: Oxford University
press, 1969), 32-33. Creswell suggests that the
mosque of ‘Umar exists in legend only. See
also Amikam Elad, Medieval Jerusalem and
Islamic Worship (Leiden: Brill, 1995), 31-35.
Andreas Kaplony, The Haram of Jerusalem
324-1099: Temple, Friday Mosque, Area
of Spiritual Power (Stuttgart: Franz Steiner
Verlag, 2002), 210-211, provides the best
summary of translations of Arculf.
It is not clear if Arculf actually visited the
site, which suggests that his description might
contain some inaccuracies.
Mutahhar ibn Tahir al-Maqdisi, Kitab al-bad’
wa’l-ta’rikh, ed. and trans. Clément Huart, 6
vols (Paris: Ernest Leroux, 1960), 4: 87, trans.
82.
1HFLSR÷OXMuqarnas 20, 19, 82 fn.16.
Nasir-I Khusraw’s Book of Travels, trans.
Wheeler M. Thackston (Costa Mesa, CA:
Mazda Publishers, 2002), 28-29. Nasir-I
Khusraw clearly states that the mosque was
attached to the eastern wall. Scholars seeking
to place the mosque in the south central part
of the Haram have interpreted mosque to
mean the entire sanctuary. Further support of a
more literal interpretation will be provided in
the discussion of the Golden Gate as eastern
entrance of Bayt al-Maqdis.
Guy Le Strange, Palestine Under the Moslems
(London: Alexander P. Watt for the Committee
of the Palestine Exploration Fund, 1890), 87.
There was some consideration that these holes
once held beams but physical evidence at the
site does not support this theory.
Finbarr B. Flood, “Light in Stone. The
Commemoration of the Prophet in Umayyad
Architecture,” in Bayt al-Maqdis: Jerusalem
and Early Islam, Part 2 [Oxford Studies in
Islamic Art IX] (Oxford: Oxford University
Press, 1999), 311-359.
Flood, respectively 353 and 317.
Alan Walmsley and Hugh Barnes, “How Deep
those Foundations – How Tall those Walls –
How Strong that Roof: Building Practices and
the Early Islamic Mosque at Jarash,” presented
at ICHAJ12 (International Conference on the
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
History and Archaeology of Jordan), Berlin
May 5-11, 2013. We look forward to this
paper’s publication.
Robert W. Hamilton, The Structural History of
the Aqsa Mosque: A Record of Archaeological
Gleanings from the Repairs of 1938-1942
(London: Oxford University Press, 1949).
This was to be published in a forthcoming
article since 1992 but has not yet appeared.
Jeremy Johns, “The ‘House of the Prophet’
and the Concept of the Mosque” in Bayt alMaqdis: Jerusalem and Early Islam, Part 2
[Oxford Studies in Islamic Art IX] (Oxford:
Oxford University Press, 1999), 64.
Among the scholars referencing the building
as an Umayyad rebuilding of an earlier
structure are: T. A. Busink, Der Tempel von
Jerusalem von Salomo bis Herodes (Leiden:
Brill, 1980), 961, fn. 127; and accepted by
Meir Ben-Dov, “Solomon’s Stables,” in The
Mosque of el-Aqsa, the Double Gate and
Solomon’s Stables, ed. E. Schiller, (Jerusalem,
1978) [Hebrew], Dan Bahat, “The Physical
Layout,” in The History of Jerusalem: The
Early Islamic Period, 638-1099, ed. J. Prawer
(New York: New York University Press,
1996), 58 and “Re-examining the History
of ‘Solomon’s Stables’” in Qadmoniot 34:2
(2001): 122, 125-130 [in Hebrew]; S. Gibson
and D. Jacobson, Below the Temple Mount
in Jerusalem: A Sourcebook on the Cisterns,
Subterranean Chambers and Conduits
of the Haram al-Sharif (Oxford: British
Archaeological Reports, 1996), 279, and much
of this referenced in Jon Seligman “Solomon’s
Stables. The Temple Mount, Jerusalem:
The Events Concerning the Destruction of
Antiquities 1999-2001” in ‘Atiqot, 56 (2007):
39.
Melchior DeVogue, Le Temple de Jérusalem:
Monographie du Haram-ech-Chérif (Paris:
Noblet & Baudry, 1864) indicates that it is
“Arab” post seventh century; C.W. Wilson
and C. Warren, “Southern Wall, Important
Discovery North of the Platform of the Dome
of the Rock” in The Recovery of Jerusalem
(London: R. Bentley, 1871), 14-15 agreed with
this dating.
Historically, there is another entrance from the
east through the Mahd ‘Isa.
Bahat, “Re-examining the History,” 129.
As Chief Architect for the Haram, Isam
Awwad convinced Ben-Dov to close the
topmost passage.
Charles Wilson, “The Masonry of the
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
Haram Wall,” in Palestine Expolration
Fund Quarterly Statement 13 (1880): 5557. Benjamin Mazar, The Mountain of the
Lord (Garden City, New York: Doubleday,
1975), 127-128, and Meir Ben-Dov, tr. Ina
Friedman, In the Shadow of the Temple: The
Discovery of Ancient Jerusalem (Jerusalem:
Keter Publishing House, 1985), 346-347,
indicate that it was blocked by debris. For a
more complete analysis and description see
Shimon Gibson and David Jacobson, Below
the Temple Mount in Jerusalem: A Sourcebook
on the Cisterns, Subterranean Chambers and
Conduits of the Haram al-Sharif (BAR Int. S.
637) (Oxford: Tempus Reparatum, 1996), 204208.
Kay Pragg, Excavations by K. M. Kenyon in
Jerusalem 1961-1967:Volume V. Discoveries
in Hellenistic to Ottoman Jerusalem (London:
Center for British Research in the Levant,
2008).
Meir Ben-Dov, In the Shadow of the Temple,
207-272 documents the discoveries from the
Byzantine period and 273-322 is evidence of
the Umayyad era.
For the Jewish presence see Ben-Dov, In the
Shadow of the Temple, and Julian Raby “In
Vitro Veritas: Glass pilgrim vessels from 7thcentury Jerusalem,” in Bayt al-Maqdis (2),
113-190. Raby demonstrates that there was a
mixed population residing in the area south
of the Haram in the seventh century including
Jewish glass-artisans.
Procopius De Edificiis Justiniani (Buildings)
Volume 6 (London: W. Heinemann, 1954);
Ben-Dov, In the Shadow of the Temple.
Thackston, Khusraw’s Book of Travels, 29.
Bahat, “Re-examining the History,” 128-129.
Ahmad Yousef Ahmad Taha, The Golden Gate
in Jerusalem - Architectural and Historical
Study in the Islamic Period (Cairo: Dar alFarooq Publications, 1999) [in Arabic]. While
teaching at the Institute for Archaeology in
Shaykh Jarrah, Beatrice St. Laurent worked
with Ahmad on his thesis on the Golden Gate.
Dan Bahat, “The Golden Gate and the Date
of the Madaba Map,” in The Madaba Map
Centenary, 1897-1997: Travelling through
the Byzantine Umayyad Period: Proceedings
of the International Conference held in
Amman, 7-9 April 1997, Collectio Maior, 40,
eds. Michele Piccirillo and Eugenio Alliata
(Jerusalem Studium Biblicum Franciscanum,
1999), 254-256.
Yuri Stoyanov, Defenders and Enemies of
Jerusalem Quarterly 54 [ 29 ]
40
41
42
43
44
the True Cross: The Sasanian Conquest
of Jerusalem in 614 AD and Byzantine
Ideology of Anti-Persian Wardare (Vienna:
Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der
Wissenschaften, 2011), 68 ff.
Among others, Miriam Rosen-Ayalon, “Early
Islamic Monuments of al-Haram al-Sharif,”
Qedem 28 (1989): 38-39
Charles W. Wilson, Ordnance Survey of
Jerusalem (Southampton: Ordinance Survey
Office,1865), 31.
Ermete Pierotti, Jerusalem Explored: being a
Description of the Ancient and Modern City
(London: Bell and Daldy, 1864), Plate XI.
Wilson Ordnance Survey, plan of the Haram
al-Sharif, and DeVogue Le Temple, plan of the
Haram al-Sharif.
The results of my work and research with
the Temple Mount Sifting Project will be
published in the project’s publication. See
also G. Barkay and Y.S. Dvira, “The Temple
Mount Sifting Project, Preliminary Report 3,”
in E. Meiron, City of David Studies of Ancient
45
48
49
50
51
52
53
[ 30 ] The Marwani Musalla in Jerusalem: New Findings
Jerusalem no. 7 (Jerusalem: Megalim, 2012),
47-96. [Hebrew].
Johns, “Archaeology and the History of Early
Islam,” 422-23.
1HFLSR÷OXMuqarnas 20, 19, 82 fn. 17 and 18.
1HFLSR÷OXMuqarnas 20, 19.
Rosen-Ayalon, “Early Islamic Monuments of
al-Haram al-Sharif,” 1, citing S. D. Goitein in
EI2 s. v. “al-Quds.” She further proceeds to
discount this as a possibility.
Elad, Medieval Jerusalem, 49.
Abdul Aziz al-Duri, “Jerusalem in the Early
Islamic Period 7th-11th Centuries AD,” in
Jerusalem in History, ed. Kamil J. al-Asali
(New York: Olive Branch Press, 1990), 110.
See also the same article for Mu‘awiya’s
achievements, 105-11.
The date of the Golden Gate will be more fully
examined in a future article cited above.
Elad, Medieval Jerusalem, 44, cites the
historian Eutychius.
Ben-Dov, In the Shadow of the Temple, 273342.