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ESP8266: Revisão da placa de teste

squix78 em17 de janeiro de 2015  25

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Recentemente chegou uma placa de teste para o ESP8266 ESP-12. Encomendei no  AliExpress  e
demorou várias semanas para chegar. Como a descrição era muito ruim, tive que fazer engenharia
reversa das funções e pinos:

Layout de pinos da placa de teste

Como você pode ver, a placa vem com um ESP8266 ESP-12 já soldado e todos os pinos estão
disponíveis à esquerda e à direita da placa ESP-12. Além disso, o TX, RX e GND estão disponíveis na
parte inferior da placa. Há também um jumper que você fecha para programar o firmware e abre para
executar o firmware.

LEDs
Há também 6 leds vermelhos fixados com os resistores necessários conectados ao GPIO16, GPIO14,
GPIO5, GPIO4, GPIO0 e GPIO2. Um LED azul está sempre aceso se a placa estiver energizada. 
O GPIO13, GPIO12 e GPIO15 estão conectados a um LED RGB que permite misturar cores usando
PWM.
ADC
O conversor analógico-digital também está disponível em um pino, mas também está conectado a um
resistor de luz. Isso permite testar rapidamente o ADC e você ainda pode cortar o resistor se quiser
medir outra fonte analógica. Atualização: demorei um pouco para descobrir que a faixa do ADC não
é 0..3.3V, mas 0..1V, portanto, certifique-se de que a tensão que você planeja medir esteja nessa faixa.


Pacote de bateria
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A placa de teste vem com uma bateria anexada que leva 3 pilhas AA. No cenário de teste a seguir, a
placa funcionou 39 horas: 
executando o firmware do nodemcu lua
todos, exceto os LEDs de energia azuis, estavam desligados
um DHT11 conectado para medir temperatura e umidade
todos os 10 minutos postando temperatura e umidade em thingspeak.com
sem sono profundo usado

Test setup with DHT11 ran 39hours, posting

every 10min to thingspeak.com

Summary
The test board is a good and easy way to get started with the full range of available functions on the
ESP8266. Especially to develop a firmware and check pin functions it comes in very handy. If you don’t
want to use the light sensor or the LEDs you can simply clip them off. Then you’ll just have a
priceworthy ESP8266 with 3xAA power supply, 9 available GPIO pins and one ADC.

Update – Pimp my power supply

If you prefer USB power supply over the battery pack then you can change that with just a little bit of
soldering. Take an old USB wire and cut it with appropriate length. My wire had white, yellow, red and
black wires. Assuming that red is +5V and black is GND I used my volt meter to check that it was
correct. Then I removed the battery pack and soldered the black and red wire instead. Don’t worry
about the 5V of the USB connector compared to the 4.5V of the serially connected batteries: There is a
power regulator of type HT7333 which regulates the 5V down to a pleasant 3.3V.

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Test board after replacing the battery pack

with a USB wire

Links
AliExpress – ESP8266 test board

ESP8266 module comparison: ESP8266: ESP-201 breakout ESP8266: How to get started –
ESP-01, ESP-05, ESP-12, ESP-201, board review What hardware you’ll need
Test Board and NodeMCU 7. February 2015 28. January 2015
16. March 2015 In "Common" In "Common"
In "Common"

Related Posts:

ESP8266: ESP-201 ESP8266 module ESP8266: ESP8266: Offline

breakout board comparison: ESP- NodeMCU Dev Debugging with

Read more about AA batterie DHT11 ESP-12 ESP8266 pin-out review RGB Led

test board thingspeak

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25 comments

UN CONNU says:
27. January 2015 at 14:14
Impossible to connect with RX/TX/GND pins 🙁 (from 9600 to 115k bauds)

I would like to see lua files in this board 😉

Reply

squix78 says:
27. January 2015 at 15:46
Have you tried to switched RX and TX? What kind of serial-to-usb are you using? What is the
voltage level of the serial connection? 5V or 3.3V? Were you able to connect another type of
ESP8266 succesfully with your serial-to-usb connector?

Reply

UN CONNU says:
27. January 2015 at 17:11 

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Try to connect with Lua loader ok 🙂

module answers

SENT: l = file.list()
SENT: for k,v in pairs(l) do
SENT: print("name:"..k..", size:"..v)
SENT: end
reconnect
scandone
no Ai-THINKER_9FC103 found, reconnect after 1s
reconnect
user_esp_platform_ap_is_changing
current ap id =0
current_router_id is 0
scandone
scandone
no Ai-THINKER_9FC103 found, reconnect after 1s
reconnect
scandone
no Ai-THINKER_9FC103 found, reconnect after 1s
reconnect

did you have module lua codes ?

Reply

squix78 says:
27. January 2015 at 18:54
Looks like you are using the firmware from ai-thinker. if you find (and trust) to install the
proper .apk on your android device you'll get a pretty interface to play with the hardware on
the test board. But if you want to play with Lua you'll have to install one of two lua based
firmwares. I describe it here: http://blog.squix.ch/2014/12/esp8266-flashing-lua-firmware-
and.html
and here: http://blog.squix.ch/2015/01/esp8266-update-over-air-nodelua-sparkio.html

Reply

UN CONNU says:
28. January 2015 at 16:29
Many thanks 😉

Reply

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UN CONNU says:
28. January 2015 at 16:28
Many thanks 😉

Reply

Anonymous says:
8. March 2015 at 20:36
Dani – do you know how to get original fw from this board? I tried to connect to serial
interface but it doesn' listen and send anything. Finally I'd like to have nodemcu like on my
other ESP boards, but at some point if I wanted to return to original one having fw backup
would be usefull.

Reply

Tugao says:
24. July 2015 at 17:23
Hey
Good work
How can i do a deep sleep with this pcb

Reply

squix78 says:
25. July 2015 at 13:50
Hi Tugao
As with every ESP8266 the pin 16 has to be connected to the reset pin.
Have a look here: http://blog.squix.ch/2015/05/esp8266-long-term-
data-logger-test-with.html

Reply

Tugao says:
27. July 2015 at 13:00
Thanks for the answere.
but when after the pcb wake up my code is reseted, and start again in
the begin(setup)
is it normal ?
I enjoyGPO16 with RST

Do I need just this for hardware ?

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Reply

squix78 says:
27. July 2015 at 19:35
Yes, this is completely normal. If you need to safe a state write it to the
EEPROM. What actually happens is that the internal timer sets GPIO16
to high, which in turn resets the ESP8266. There are other sleep states,
but they consume more energy than the deep sleep state

Reply

Tony Greening says:

21. October 2015 at 12:03
Dani – nice write up. Do you have an example of how to wire this board up to flash new
firmware or program the lua? I've read/tried your other post about the 8 pin version but that
doesn't work.

Thansk!

Reply

Unknown says:
22. October 2015 at 15:46
Sr. Boa tarde o amigo tem exemplos de conexão "get" ou "post".

Agradeço sua atenção

Reply

squix78 says:
1. December 2015 at 16:43
Hi Shankar

The messages you are mentioning just mean that the programmer could not talk to the
ESP8266. In my experience the following problems can lead to this:
– not resetting the ESP after setting the jumper. The chip only goes into programming mode
after a reboot
– wrong wiring of the tx/rx lines. Try to switch them
– wrong board defined in the Arduino IDE board manager


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– bad timing after the reset; try to start programming immediately after the reset, or 2
seconds, etc.
– try different baud rates

Please post here if you fixed it and how. this might help others!

Cheers,
Daniel

Reply

Shankar S says:
2. December 2015 at 7:55
Hi Dani,
Thanks for replying.

Okay, I am able to upload the program now. I made the following connections:
TX to TX and RX to RX. GND to GND. I am using pl2203 for usb-serial conv.

I tested the blink program. The code got uploaded into the esp8266 module.
The led(GPIO2) starts blinking, and after 5-6 secs the board kind of resets, i.e. the gpio2 led
gets switched off.

I tried uploading the code using different baud rates, tried changing the gpio to 14,12,etc. the
led blinks for a few times and then stops and returns back to normal.

Also, while the program is running, the RGB led seems to glow very faintly. Once the program
stops, It glows little brightly.

I dont know why the program stops. Should I make connections like CH_PD to VCC and RST to
GND?

Also can you tell me what exactly is the jumper doing? is it shorting GPIO 0 to GND?

Thanks in advance 🙂

Reply

Shankar S says:
3. December 2015 at 6:11
UPDATE:
Initially I was not able to receive the ready message from the ESP8266
in the arduino serial monitor. Also the programs, even though


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uploaded caused the module to reset continuously. After hours of

searching, I found a way to update the firmware using this link:
http://www.xess.com/blog/esp8266-reflash/

I made the following connections for my ESP-12:

ESP RX to Pl2303-TX
ESP TX to Pl2303-RX
ESP GND to Pl2303 GND
powered my ESP8266, with 3 AA Batteries
Supplied a separate line 3.3V and GND to a breadboard from Arduino
connected to my laptops usb port.
Connected GPIO2 and CH_PD to 3.3V
GPIO15 to GND
Placed the jumper(GPIO 0 to GND)

for connections refer:http://blog.3mdeb.com/

Now I am able to talk with the ESP8266 via AT commands!!

Reply

Halil Karaköse says:

24. March 2016 at 20:38
For connections, I referred to
http://blog.3mdeb.com/2015/01/24/power-on-of-esp-12.
I was using FTDI232 adaptor. I got response to my AT commands when
I connected as follows:

ESP RX to FTDI232-RX
ESP TX to FTDI232-TX

Reply

Wee-Min Chan says:

4. December 2015 at 16:23
I'm trying to use the GPIO as INPUT for Temperature/humidity sensor. Do these LEDS on the
GPIO pins affects the GPIO pins?

Reply

Shankar S says: 
4. December 2015 at 16:27

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No they wont.. they are just visual indicators, that too only when u use
the gpios as output. otherwise they wont trouble u..

Reply

Gerrond says:
6. April 2016 at 11:53
Hi

Perhaps a bit late but …..

The LED and its 470ohm provide a path to VCC so your circuit will need
to sink approx. 3-4mA when low (and the LED will light of course).

The DS18B20 expects to find a 4k7 pull-up not a 470 plus LED and its
maximum sink current is specified as 1mA…

So yes these LEDs might well affect your circuit.

Regards

Graham

Reply

Gerrond says:
6. April 2016 at 10:11
Hi

Interesting review. Thanks.

My board looks the same but has silk-screen pin annotations with RX and TX transposed (as
your pic shows correctly).

I find that if I blink GPIO5 the pin marked GPIO4 on my silk-screen and your pic blinks – and
vice-versa.

The photo-cell does it work? I find that it reads 5 irrespective of light level. I measure approx.
1mV on ADC pin. Resistors near GPIO14 and 15 set this voltage and are 1M and 470R, so ADC
max is 1mV5. I'd be interested to know what values you have.

I see the CH_PD pull-up is 100R which is probably better than 0R but it's a bit hard to disable
the thing if I wanted to do so.

Thanks and Regards

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Graham

Reply

imran says:
24. August 2016 at 20:14
Hi I need help , there are three pins on the board TX GND RX , can I connect this to my laptop
directly with a standard USB cable or do I need a a special module , I want to be able to
programme the GPO,s on the board , but i first need to link to my laptop . Please help

Reply

squix78 says:
24. August 2016 at 20:22
Hi Imran. You need a USB-to-Serial Converter just like this one:
http://www.banggood.com/FT232RL-FTDI-USB-To-TTL-Serial-
Converter-Adapter-Module-For-Arduino-p-917226.html?
p=6R31122484684201508S
Make sure that it is set to 3.3V or you will destroy the ESP8266. And
read this article: http://blog.squix.org/2015/01/esp8266-how-to-get-
started-what.html

Reply

Antti Kaihola says:

18. December 2016 at 16:35
Has anyone measured the power consumption in deep sleep?

Also, it seems that the power LED stays on during deep sleep. What would be a good way to
avoid that?

I found some discussion about this at http://www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7472

Reply

Antti Kaihola says:

24. December 2016 at 21:18
I did some experiments: I clipped off the RGB LED and physically broke
all other LEDs which emitted a faint light during deep sleep. Now the
board is completely dark during deep sleep. According to my 

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multimeter, the power consumption in deep sleep is still around 1.6

mA. I suppose the regulator draws that much.

Eu tenho outro EPS-12E simples com baterias AA duplas e uma placa

step-up, e agora está funcionando pela quarta semana com as
mesmas baterias, medindo e enviando a temperatura a cada 15
minutos. Não vou conseguir chegar tão longe com a placa de
desenvolvimento amarela e 1,6 mA, a menos que alguém tenha um
hack brilhante…

É uma pena, já que esta placa de desenvolvimento é tão barata e bem

pré-embalada com o suporte da bateria.

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