Minor update on Gold Ring instructions

Hey lovely mmmakers! I have updated step 28 of the Gold Ring pattern to help clarify the pieces you are sewing together there. Several have contacted me over the years scratching their heads about that step, so I have finally gotten around to (hopefully) making it less confusing! 

I updated the wording to make it clear the FRONT piece is now a combo of the FRONT and the BACKGROUND, which have been sewn together to create one flat donut. Here's a screen capture of the updated step in case you are curious or wish to make a note on your copy of the pattern:

Note: the pattern has not changed, just some additional wording to step 28.

minor update to Santa Claus pattern

ATTN: 'TWAS THE NIGHT MMMAKERS: I'm making a minor update to the Santa Claus pattern if you'd like to do the same. Santa's hanging loop was originally attached at the top of his collar because I was concerned that the attachment might pull his hat out of shape over time. That's been bothering me because it's not ideal. 

I was recently made aware of a typo in the TTN patterns (I spelled Q-Tip "cue tip" LOL) so while I'm correcting that in the PDFs, I'm going to adjust the directions in Santa Claus to move the loop attachment to the back of his hat, just above the rim (as shown in the photo above). At that spot, the glue holding the hat on his head should keep the loop from pulling the hat out of shape.

If you'd like, make a little note to that effect on your patterns. But you can also keep attaching it on his collar, if you prefer! The advantage with that is you can turn or angle his head without effecting the angle at which he hangs. :-)

small change to the Little Elves pattern

ELF UPDATE: I made a small change to the Little Elves pattern, y'all. You can easily make the same minor change when you make your Elf Boy. Or not! It is completely up to YOU.

What's the change? I took 2 mm off the top of the knickerbockers so that they are slightly shorter. Have a look at the photos. Pink Elf on the left is the new one, and blue elf on the right is the old one. Notice the small difference? In turn, it makes the new Elf Boy ever so slightly shorter overall. Why the change? Just because I like it better. I won't get my feelins' hurt if you do not agree. Feel free to leave your pattern the way it is.

To make the same change on your existing pattern, draw a new cutting line 2 mm down from the waist edge, on BOTH front and back knickerbocker pieces. That's it! The waist will be ever so slightly wider, but you can trim if needed to match the torso. (The Etsy shop pattern has been updated as of this evening. You'll see R3/21 in the lower right corner of the revised pattern.)

#mmmcrafts #twasthenightornaments #itsfuntosayknickerbockers

Twelve Days update: you can sub Pellon 70 Peltex for the wings, and two other notes

Hey, guys! I always like to share updates with you that might make the construction of your ornaments easier/faster/better/cheaper. (As I typed that, the opening sequence to The Six-Million Dollar man began playing inside my head.)

FIRST ITEM: Way back when I wrote the bird patterns in the series, I specified double layers of heavyweight iron-on interfacing to give the wings stiffness, and used Pellon® 70 Peltex® to reinforce the beaks.

I discovered recently that the 70 Peltex actually works well for the wings. Quite well. Okaaaay...better. I did this in the set I just made for FOTF and really liked the results, and it was less trouble than cutting multiple pieces of interfacing. So why didn't 2014 Larissa think of this? Mmmmnot sure? Maybe I did and decided against it? You know me. Detail obsessed oriented. I'm sure it crossed my mind. Maybe I thought it would look too thick? But 2019 Larissa knows better.

So as I'm going through and revising the patterns (just minor changes and tweaks) to make them more streamlined and consistent in the way they are made, I'm subbing in one layer of the 70 Peltex in all the bird wings (and also the tail in the case of French Hen) instead of the double layers of iron-on interfacing. It's a win-win because
1) it works better to help the wings keep their shape over time, and
2) also makes for one less item to buy, because you already use the 70 Peltex in the beaks. Yay! (You can skip buying the craft weight iron-on interfacing.)

So make a little note to yourself on your existing patterns to use the Peltex instead. That includes Turtle Dove, French Hen, Colly Bird, Goose a-Laying, and Swan a-Swimming. (Partridge does not have a free standing wing, so that is not affected.)

SECOND ITEM: Specific to the Swan a-Swimming pattern, also make a note to yourself about using a cotton pipe cleaner inside the water of the swan instead of using the interfacing or even the Pellon. It won't hurt to use either of those, but I think a pipe cleaner works better:

That's another minor revision I'm making in the pattern because a cotton pipe cleaner keeps the water nice and straight and not bendy. Bendy water looks weird. When storing the ornaments, the water tends to bend upward around the swan if you use the interfacing or Pellon. Even if your pipe cleaner gets curvy in storage, you can easily straighten it. I used a pipe cleaner in this one.

OK, THIRD ITEM: Circling back to the wing and beak Pellon, I thought I'd mention that when I made the baby banner recently, I noticed stiffened craft felt has about the same thickness and stiffness of the 70 Peltex.

Soooooo if you find that you have trouble locating the 70 Peltex to use for the wings and beaks, you might try the stiffened felt? *Emphasis on the ?* I hesitate to even mention it because I haven't used it in the ornaments myself, but I know you guys are perfectly capable of trying it out for yourselves if needed. You guys are smart. Be careful if for some reason you have to press over it with an iron -- I'm pretty sure it will melt or shrink if there is direct contact with the iron.

minor correction for Swan a-Swimming pattern and maybe I should just use a pipe cleaner anyway...

Hello, guys!
You are all awesome, have I mentioned that lately? Well, you are. Vigilant mmmaker Judi (thank you, Judi!) brought a mistake to my attention in the Swan a-Swimming pattern. If you haven't already noticed it, grab a marker and make a note on your patterns:

On step 31 it should read as follows:

Trace this water outline twice on heavyweight fusible interfacing (glue side up), then once (glue side down). Cut them out.

So the mistake was that I had the 'glue side up' and 'glue side down' switched. What you want to end up with is two layers of interfacing on the wrong side of the WATER BACKING and one on the wrong side of the WATER FRONT. Not a huge deal even if you make it with this switched, but it does end up making you feel like you went wrong somewhere. Sorry, Judi! If you've been cheating like I sometimes do by just gluing the interfacing in place instead of ironing it on, you may not have even noticed.

However, I'm re-thinking the whole interfacing thing for this step anyway. The more I store my Swans, the more I realize the water tends to curl on the ends and not stay level. (Do yours do this too?) So I'm thinking a pipe cleaner shaped and glued lightly to the wrong side of the water backing might work better than the 3 layers of interfacing. Feel free to do that instead!