... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredi... more ... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredited but the ... eighteenth century helped create a stable protection for the highly vulner-able face. ... Studying the clash that occur-red between these demands and the growing criticisms ...
Morag Martin's history of the cosmetic industry in France examines the evolution of popular t... more Morag Martin's history of the cosmetic industry in France examines the evolution of popular tastes and standards of beauty during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. As the French citizenry rebelled against the excesses of the aristocracy, there was a parallel shift in consumer beauty practices. Powdered wigs, alabaster white skin, and rouged cheeks disappeared in favor of a more natural and simple style. Selling Beauty challenges expectations about past fashions and offers a unique look into consumer culture and business practices. Martin introduces readers to the social and economic world of cosmetic production and consumption, recounts criticisms against the use of cosmetics from a variety of voices, and examines how producers and retailers responded to quickly evolving fashions. Martin shows that the survival of the industry depended on its ability to find customers among the emerging working and middle classes. But the newfound popularity of cosmetics raised serious que...
Though male doctors gained prominence at the bedsides of pregnant mothers in nineteenth-century E... more Though male doctors gained prominence at the bedsides of pregnant mothers in nineteenth-century Europe, the clinical training they received in medical academies remained cursory. In France, to supplement the medical faculties, the government set up schools for both health officers and midwives which were meant to teach practical obstetrics. This paper focusses on the city of Arras, where these two groups of students competed for the limited numbers of pregnant patients on which to practice their future professions. Like many in their field, two prominent instructors in Arras at each end of the century promoted male obstetrical education over female, arguing that practical education for health officers would lead to safer births for mothers and infants. By the 1870s, the obstetrics instructor adopted germ theory, tying improved hygiene and thus mortality rates to male students’ access to hospitalised patients. Despite their arguments, in Arras, the male students never gained priority...
Starting in 1802, the Napoleonic government promoted the education of enlightened midwives throug... more Starting in 1802, the Napoleonic government promoted the education of enlightened midwives through both the Parisian Maternité and departmental schools. The Gers, in the southwest, repeatedly tried and failed to open a school that would graduate well-trained midwives. Its failure by 1839 rested on the male authorities' inability to conceive of and support spaces where three interrelated groups of women could cohabitate safely in this rural and Catholic department. Young, innocent midwifery students needed protection from the mostly unwed mothers available as bodies for practice. In turn, both the unwed mothers and the midwifery students, due to their knowledge of procreation, threatened the purity of the nursing sisters who controlled charitable spaces. Ultimately, despite attempts to redefine the bodies of unwed mothers and reconfigure the spaces to run a legitimate school, the authorities abandoned the goal of providing skilled midwives for the women in labor who needed them m...
Based on encyclopedias, medical journals, historical, and literary sources, this collection of in... more Based on encyclopedias, medical journals, historical, and literary sources, this collection of interdisciplinary essays focuses on the intersection of women, gender, and disease in England and France. Diverse critical perspectives highlight contributions women made to the scientific and medical communities of the eighteenth century. In spite of obstacles encountered in spaces dominated by men, women became midwives, and wrote self-help manuals on women’s health, hygiene, and domestic economy. Excluded from universities, they nevertheless contributed significantly to such fields as anatomy, botany, medicine, and public health. Enlightenment perspectives on the nature of the female body, childbirth, diseases specific to women, “gender,” sex, “masculinity” and “femininity,” adolescence, and sexual differentiation inform close readings of English and French literary texts. Treatises by Montpellier vitalists influenced intellectuals and physicians such as Nicolas Chambon, Pierre Cabanis, Jacques-Louis Moreau de la Sarthe, Jules-Joseph Virey, and Théophile de Bordeu. They impacted the exchange of letters and production of literary works by Julie de Lespinasse, Françoise de Graffigny, Nicolas Chamfort, Mary Astell, Frances Burney, Lawrence Sterne, Eliza Haywood, and Daniel Defoe. In our post-modern era, these essays raise important questions regarding women as subjects, objects, and readers of the philosophical, medical, and historical discourses that framed the project of enlightenment.
On 4 September 1818 the Gazette de France reported on the tumultuous scenes occurring outside Par... more On 4 September 1818 the Gazette de France reported on the tumultuous scenes occurring outside Parisian booksellers. The journalist was surprised to find crowds of people all demanding one book:
These three works demonstrate the impact that gender studies has had on the scholarship on early ... more These three works demonstrate the impact that gender studies has had on the scholarship on early modern Spain. From political biography to religious and intellectual history, gender not only offers depth and breadth to historical study, it is becoming central to our understanding of Spanish society.
... Press. 2004, pp. viii, 288, 49.99 (hardback 0-7190-6286-1). Other Sections▼: SusanBroomhall&#... more ... Press. 2004, pp. viii, 288, 49.99 (hardback 0-7190-6286-1). Other Sections▼: SusanBroomhall's Women's medical work in early modern France takes a diverse look atwomen's roles in Renaissance health care. She investigates ...
Fashion Theory-the Journal of Dress Body & Culture, 2003
... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredi... more ... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredited but the ... eighteenth century helped create a stable protection for the highly vulner-able face. ... Studying the clash that occur-red between these demands and the growing criticisms ...
... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredi... more ... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredited but the ... eighteenth century helped create a stable protection for the highly vulner-able face. ... Studying the clash that occur-red between these demands and the growing criticisms ...
Morag Martin's history of the cosmetic industry in France examines the evolution of popular t... more Morag Martin's history of the cosmetic industry in France examines the evolution of popular tastes and standards of beauty during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. As the French citizenry rebelled against the excesses of the aristocracy, there was a parallel shift in consumer beauty practices. Powdered wigs, alabaster white skin, and rouged cheeks disappeared in favor of a more natural and simple style. Selling Beauty challenges expectations about past fashions and offers a unique look into consumer culture and business practices. Martin introduces readers to the social and economic world of cosmetic production and consumption, recounts criticisms against the use of cosmetics from a variety of voices, and examines how producers and retailers responded to quickly evolving fashions. Martin shows that the survival of the industry depended on its ability to find customers among the emerging working and middle classes. But the newfound popularity of cosmetics raised serious que...
Though male doctors gained prominence at the bedsides of pregnant mothers in nineteenth-century E... more Though male doctors gained prominence at the bedsides of pregnant mothers in nineteenth-century Europe, the clinical training they received in medical academies remained cursory. In France, to supplement the medical faculties, the government set up schools for both health officers and midwives which were meant to teach practical obstetrics. This paper focusses on the city of Arras, where these two groups of students competed for the limited numbers of pregnant patients on which to practice their future professions. Like many in their field, two prominent instructors in Arras at each end of the century promoted male obstetrical education over female, arguing that practical education for health officers would lead to safer births for mothers and infants. By the 1870s, the obstetrics instructor adopted germ theory, tying improved hygiene and thus mortality rates to male students’ access to hospitalised patients. Despite their arguments, in Arras, the male students never gained priority...
Starting in 1802, the Napoleonic government promoted the education of enlightened midwives throug... more Starting in 1802, the Napoleonic government promoted the education of enlightened midwives through both the Parisian Maternité and departmental schools. The Gers, in the southwest, repeatedly tried and failed to open a school that would graduate well-trained midwives. Its failure by 1839 rested on the male authorities' inability to conceive of and support spaces where three interrelated groups of women could cohabitate safely in this rural and Catholic department. Young, innocent midwifery students needed protection from the mostly unwed mothers available as bodies for practice. In turn, both the unwed mothers and the midwifery students, due to their knowledge of procreation, threatened the purity of the nursing sisters who controlled charitable spaces. Ultimately, despite attempts to redefine the bodies of unwed mothers and reconfigure the spaces to run a legitimate school, the authorities abandoned the goal of providing skilled midwives for the women in labor who needed them m...
Based on encyclopedias, medical journals, historical, and literary sources, this collection of in... more Based on encyclopedias, medical journals, historical, and literary sources, this collection of interdisciplinary essays focuses on the intersection of women, gender, and disease in England and France. Diverse critical perspectives highlight contributions women made to the scientific and medical communities of the eighteenth century. In spite of obstacles encountered in spaces dominated by men, women became midwives, and wrote self-help manuals on women’s health, hygiene, and domestic economy. Excluded from universities, they nevertheless contributed significantly to such fields as anatomy, botany, medicine, and public health. Enlightenment perspectives on the nature of the female body, childbirth, diseases specific to women, “gender,” sex, “masculinity” and “femininity,” adolescence, and sexual differentiation inform close readings of English and French literary texts. Treatises by Montpellier vitalists influenced intellectuals and physicians such as Nicolas Chambon, Pierre Cabanis, Jacques-Louis Moreau de la Sarthe, Jules-Joseph Virey, and Théophile de Bordeu. They impacted the exchange of letters and production of literary works by Julie de Lespinasse, Françoise de Graffigny, Nicolas Chamfort, Mary Astell, Frances Burney, Lawrence Sterne, Eliza Haywood, and Daniel Defoe. In our post-modern era, these essays raise important questions regarding women as subjects, objects, and readers of the philosophical, medical, and historical discourses that framed the project of enlightenment.
On 4 September 1818 the Gazette de France reported on the tumultuous scenes occurring outside Par... more On 4 September 1818 the Gazette de France reported on the tumultuous scenes occurring outside Parisian booksellers. The journalist was surprised to find crowds of people all demanding one book:
These three works demonstrate the impact that gender studies has had on the scholarship on early ... more These three works demonstrate the impact that gender studies has had on the scholarship on early modern Spain. From political biography to religious and intellectual history, gender not only offers depth and breadth to historical study, it is becoming central to our understanding of Spanish society.
... Press. 2004, pp. viii, 288, 49.99 (hardback 0-7190-6286-1). Other Sections▼: SusanBroomhall&#... more ... Press. 2004, pp. viii, 288, 49.99 (hardback 0-7190-6286-1). Other Sections▼: SusanBroomhall's Women's medical work in early modern France takes a diverse look atwomen's roles in Renaissance health care. She investigates ...
Fashion Theory-the Journal of Dress Body & Culture, 2003
... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredi... more ... Aristocratic makeup, which implied rouge, white face paint and powder, may have been discredited but the ... eighteenth century helped create a stable protection for the highly vulner-able face. ... Studying the clash that occur-red between these demands and the growing criticisms ...
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