Muzaffarabad

The picturesque view of Muzaffarabad city

Muzaffarabad (Urdu: مُظفَّرآباد‎, Pahari, Potwari, مُظفٌر آباد) is the capital of Azad Kashmir in Pakistan. It is located on the banks of the Jhelum and Neelum rivers. The district is bounded by North-West Frontier Province in the west, by the Kupwara and Baramulla districts of on the Indian side of the Line of Control in the east, and the Neelum District of Azad Kashmir in the north. The elevation is 737 m and the population is about 150,000 (in 2017).

Understand

Muzafarrabad was established in 1646 by Sultan Muzaffar Khan who ruled the Kashmir. He set up a red fort in the city to defend it against the Mughals. Muzafarrabad was the epicenter of the October 2005 earthquake that killed over 75,000 people. The city was devastated and filled with tent camps and non-government organizations. Rebuilding has been slow.

Get in

By road is practically only way to get in. There's an airport in the city but not operational. Buses and minibuses make the scenic journey regularly from Islamabad (4-5 hours).

If you're self-driving, the route via Murree is the quickest if you're coming Islamabad. Kohala is the entry point into Azad Kashmir, where you'll need to get through a checkpoint.

On own transport you need an hour to reach Murree. After Murree the road becomes thin and winding (and very scenic). Give yourself 3 hours to reach Kohala Bridge and another hour to reach Muzaffarabad. Approximately its 5 hours on your own car. The road is often in the process of repair and upgrading so there are slow, unpaved and bumpy sections. Driving this route in daylight, especially for your first time, is highly recommended.

See

Red Fort

• 1 AJK Assembly, AJK Supreme Court, Mosque Assembly Secretariat, Kh. Khurshid Tomb. Important provincial landmarks (updated Aug 2020)
• 2 Red Fort Muzaffarabad (on Neelum Rd on north side of town). There are two historical forts on opposite sides of the Neelum River. Red Fort and Black Fort The construction of the Red Fort was finally completed in 1646 by Sultan Muzaffar Khan, the founder of Muzaffarabad city. After the Mughals took over Kashmir, the fort lost its importance. The Mughals were more interested in Kabul, Bukhara, and Badakshan. During the period of Durrani rule, however, the fort again once again assumed its importance. Maharaja Gulab Singh and Rambir Singh, the Dogra rulers, reconstructed and extended the fort for their political and military operations. Towards the middle of 1947, the Dogra forces left, leaving the fort abandoned. The architecture of the fort shows that great experts in design and structure participated in its construction. It is surrounded on three sides by the Neelum River formally known as the Kishenganga River. The northern part of the fort had terraces with steps leading to the bank of the river. The eastern side was very well protected from the hazards of flood waters, but some parts on the north side have suffered damage. There used to be an inn at the entrance to the fort, but only traces of that structure remain now. (updated Aug 2020)
• 3 Jalalabad Garden, Jalabad Stadium Rd. Daily 08:00-20:00. Somewhat of an attempt at a botanical garden. Lots of tulips when in season. Also various types of fowl roaming grounds. And one cannot beat the views. (updated Aug 2020)
• 4 Patikka (up Neelum Valley, about halfway to Dhani Waterfalls). 19 km from Muzaffarabad, is a gateway to the Neelum Valley. There is also a mini zoo and a fish hatchery. The Tourism Department has constructed a Tourist Rest House here, which is very popular. (updated Aug 2020)
• 5 Pir Chinasi (take Pir Chinasi Rd out of town until arrive at destination in about 17 km). Due to its scenic beauty, velvet green plateaus and wonderful climate, it wins admiration of nature lovers. The view of the summit of the mountain peaks spell bounds a tourist. Devotees of Saint Shah Hussain Bukhari, take pilgrimage to rejuvenate their adust heart. The adjacent Pirchinassi, phawna da Danna and the areas in the bottom of Pirchinassi are also worth seen and ideal for hiking, trekking and camping activities. Tourism Department has also constructed a tourist lodge at Saran. (updated Aug 2020)
• 6 Shaheed Gali Tourist Rest House. is 1,640 m above sea level about 16 km west of Muzaffarabad. From Shaheed Gali a trek of 4 km leads towards a spot namely "Sri Kot". A tourist is bound to be fascinated by the serenity for the backdrop of the area. A tourist Rest House is available for accommodation at Shaheed Gali. (updated Aug 2020)
• 7 Subri Lake. Scenic viewpoint along Jhelum River. (updated Aug 2020)
• 8 Makra Choti (Makri Peak/Spider Peak). 12,000 ft mountaintop vista among the clouds. (updated Aug 2020)
• 9 Dhani Waterfall (39 km away towards northeast on Neelum Rd). Not only is the waterfall an attraction, but the Neelum River Valley in which it is located is (perhaps the highlight). Supreme alpine scenery. At 15 m, this is the highest waterfall in the valley. But if you keep going 103 km from Muzaffarabad up the valley, there is another fall called Kundle Shahi (updated Aug 2020)
• 10 Chikar Highland Resort (40 km south of town on Chakothi Rd and Sudhan Gali Rd, past the town of Chikkar). is a beautiful summer station at a distance of 46 km from Muzaffarabad on top of the mountain. The outstanding features of this beautiful place are its climate and sceneries. 10 km from Chikkar is another worth seen hill station in the middle of dense green pine forests and is linked by a fair weather road. (updated Aug 2020)

Do

You can indulge in different activities like hiking, trekking and camping at the foothill regions of the Pir Chinassi, Saran, Sun Bun, Muskhi, Sakki and Jarran.

Buy

• Handicrafts: Carpets, silk woolen clothing, woolen shawls, wood carving, Papier Mashie, rugs
• Other products and fruits: mushrooms, honey, walnuts, apples, cherry, medicinal herbs & plants, resin, Deodar, Kail, Chir, Fir, Maple and Ash Timbers, etc.

Eat

The Pearl Continental has Chinese & Continental restaurants (with amazing views). Neelum View Hotel (which is no longer a hotel) has a nice terrace and OK food.

Pakistani and Kashmiri food is available everywhere. Many restaurants offer Chinese and Italian dishes as well.

In restaurants, it is a good idea to ask what is freshly cooked.

Chicken Karahi is a dish recommended for Pakistanis and Kashmiris as it can be cooked easily and one can see this being cooked.

Kashmiri Nan are wonderful in taste.

Try Kashmiri Pink Tea. You can take Kashmiri Kulcha as snack. Kashmiri Kulcha is different from Kulcha sold in Lahore or Gujranwala.

Try typical Kashmiri dishes like Goshtawa etc. but its hard to find real one.

Goshtawa can be found in Kashmiri Bazaar. It's in the middle of the city you can reach there taking a route of Upper Adda near AJK University or through Famous Madina Market. You can also find Kashmiri tea, Kulcha and Kashmiri Bakarkhani at same place.

• 1 Al Baik Food Park, Red Fort Rd (east of Red Fort), ☏ +923360555230. Tu-Th 08:00-23:00, F Sa 08:00-00:00, closed Su and M. Here you can have some chicken skewers by the river. (updated Aug 2020)

Drink

Please drink bottled water, locally called mineral water and is available in ½-, 1- and 3-litre bottles.

Soft drinks like Coke and Pepsi are also available

Wine etc. is not available as it is Islamic country, however alcohol can be unofficially purchased by slipping money to the right people at hotels.

Sleep

There are various guest houses, rest houses, motels and hotels at most of the tourist spots which can be booked in advance from their offices in Muzaffarabad. (Tel: 058810-32625).

• 1 Agha G Palace, Tanga Adda Rd, Tariqabad, ☏ +923129039977. Check-out: 15:00. Nice views over the city 
• 2 Muzaffarabad Inn, Police Line Rd, Naluchi (Naluchi area near Earthquake Memorial Bridge and Butt General Store), ☏ +923450966664. Family guest house equipped with all basic necessities. Neat and clean. Rental cars, tourist guide and free open area car parking available. Laundry, wifi, views of bridge and AJK gov buildings. (updated Apr 2015)
• 3 Orash Lodge Guest House, 61-B Upper Chattar Rd (in vicinity of Pearl Continental and AJK gov buildings), ☏ +923005703173. Rooftop veranda, restaurant, wifi, laundry. May not always have optical cleanliness, but you may get to use a TV with rabbit ears again. 
• 4 Pearl Continental, Upper Chattar (near AJK state buildings), ☏ +925822438000. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Five star hotel. Maybe you'll end up rooming next to a head of state. Free breakfast, restaurant, pool, hot tub, gym, laundry, wifi. Grounds and views and atrium are nothing to shake a stick at. Rs 12,000. 
• 5 Sangam hotel, Sangam Hotel, Garhi Pan Domel Rd, Domail Muzaffarabad, Azad Jammu and Kashmir 13100 (near Quaid-e-Azam Bridge & Red Fort), ☏ +925822444194. Balconies with views of Neelum River and nearby hills and whatever townspeople decide to throw on their roofs. Restaurant, wifi. Broken furniture and washroom accessories. ~US$48. 
• 6 West End Guest House, Tanga stand (behind National Bank Gojra, Western Bypass), ☏ +923485168906. Economical, kind of like staying in someone's house. Clean toilet, wifi. No restaurant, no views. 

Go next

• Hunza - area known for the ancient watch towers in Ganish, Baltit Fort and Altit Fort as well as carved on rocks along the valley.
• Islamabad - located on the Pothohar Plateau which is one of the earliest known sites of human settlement in Asia.
• Skardu - location of an incomparable cluster of mountain peaks and glaciers. Baltistan's five valleys, - Shigar, Skardu, Khaplu, Rondu and Kharmang are noted for their luscious peaches, apricots, apples and pears.
• Srinagar, India (through Srinagar-Muzaffarabad bus) - home of many beautiful gardens and interesting sights.
• Rawalakot - location of Banjosa Lake and Hot Springs in the Tatta Pani area.