Patricia Te Arapo Wallace
This thesis examines evidence of traditional Maori dress from the mid-seventeenth century to 1820. It focuses on ephemeral and perishable elements of dress which previous research appears to have forgotten, overlooked or dismissed: hairstyle, head adornment, the use of bird and animal skins, and a former method of wearing cloaks.
Twentieth century perceptions of traditional Maori dress were mainly derived from selected images published soon after the voyages of Captain Cook. Other available graphic evidence was deemed unreliable because of the perceived influence of late eighteenth century artistic practices. However, this research validates the work of contemporary graphic artists and establishes that many early European images of Maori, previously un-researched, offer a valuable and largely reliable source of ethnological data. The thesis uses multidisciplinary analysis to re-examine not only the graphic evidence but traditional, textual, and material sources, and brings to bear specialist knowledge of the construction of dress and related technology. The research seeks to employ an holistic perspective and to analyse dress in its cultural context to understand its significance more completely.
The synthesis of these forms of evidence and the introduction of empirical procedures has elicited new information and ascertains that traditional Maori dress was more varied and more complex than formerly perceived.
Phone: Telephone + 03-3667001 ext 7976, Fax + 03-364-2002
Address: Patricia Te Arapo Wallace Ph.D.
Adjunct Fellow
Aotahi - School of Maori and Indigenous Studies
University of Canterbury,
Private Bag 4800, Christchurch, New Zealand.
Twentieth century perceptions of traditional Maori dress were mainly derived from selected images published soon after the voyages of Captain Cook. Other available graphic evidence was deemed unreliable because of the perceived influence of late eighteenth century artistic practices. However, this research validates the work of contemporary graphic artists and establishes that many early European images of Maori, previously un-researched, offer a valuable and largely reliable source of ethnological data. The thesis uses multidisciplinary analysis to re-examine not only the graphic evidence but traditional, textual, and material sources, and brings to bear specialist knowledge of the construction of dress and related technology. The research seeks to employ an holistic perspective and to analyse dress in its cultural context to understand its significance more completely.
The synthesis of these forms of evidence and the introduction of empirical procedures has elicited new information and ascertains that traditional Maori dress was more varied and more complex than formerly perceived.
Phone: Telephone + 03-3667001 ext 7976, Fax + 03-364-2002
Address: Patricia Te Arapo Wallace Ph.D.
Adjunct Fellow
Aotahi - School of Maori and Indigenous Studies
University of Canterbury,
Private Bag 4800, Christchurch, New Zealand.
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Prior to European contact, Māori were able to access considerable and sustainable supplies of kiekie to fulfil a variety of end uses. This included an important class of rain-capes, prized for the superior durability and strength of their fibre. Once common, these rain-capes are now evident only as comparatively rare artefacts found in museum collections; nonetheless, recovery of indigenous technology demonstrates the customary importance of this resource, and testifies to a complex traditional practice developed to extract the fibre. However, during nearly 200 hundred years since colonial
settlement began, end uses have changed significantly, and challenges to sustainability of traditional practice continue to
increase.
This paper discusses Māori traditional use of kiekie, and addresses problems that face indigenous weavers today.
Prior to European contact, Māori were able to access considerable and sustainable supplies of kiekie to fulfil a variety of end uses. This included an important class of rain-capes, prized for the superior durability and strength of their fibre. Once common, these rain-capes are now evident only as comparatively rare artefacts found in museum collections; nonetheless, recovery of indigenous technology demonstrates the customary importance of this resource, and testifies to a complex traditional practice developed to extract the fibre. However, during nearly 200 hundred years since colonial
settlement began, end uses have changed significantly, and challenges to sustainability of traditional practice continue to
increase.
This paper discusses Māori traditional use of kiekie, and addresses problems that face indigenous weavers today.